This is Segesta (And Erice)

img_0435The picture of my daughters and I laboring up an Erice alley is exactly what it looks like.  We are not checking for dog poop.  This was the tail end of a brutally hot day that involved hiking to the majestic Segesta temple.  I thought I could handle the Sicilian July heat everybody warned me about, but this was hot.  To give you an indication, when it was time to take a food break in Erice, we had no other choice but go to a tourist trap.  We were seated on a touristy terrace with other tourists, given overpriced tourist menus (Caprese salad!), and then gave them our money and soul.

But this was still a good day.  Segesta blew us away with its beauty and setting.  Once a Greek powerhouse, one of many in Sicily, whose pride and overconfidence left it badly defeated.  Now whats left is a roofless temple, and a Greek theater with that classic Greek theater style setting.  The best I’ve seen.

Meanwhile Erice, perched on a mountain, not a hill, was surprisingly quiet for such a major tourist attraction.  Its home to the famous Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, Sicily’s sweets jewel founded by a nun who grew up in an orphanage in Erice.  Nuns are responsible for much of the desserts found all over Sicily.   img_0411 img_0416 img_0440 img_0442 img_0444 img_0446 img_0450 img_0456 img_0460 img_0495 img_0506 img_0508 img_0511 img_0521 img_0526 img_0545 img_0552 img_0553 img_0559 img_0461

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Flavor of the Month – Gelato Giusto

img_3883This is a new monthly feature on EWZ that simply features a NYC establishment that I like right now.  Not a full blown post as I will spare you the unnecessary details and jokes and simply say GO, and why.  And yes, I’m changing the meaning of the conventional usage of “Flavor of the Month” and making it my own.

I will pre-phase this one by saying that I dont know any other place like it.  EWZ historians must be scratching their heads wondering if I’ve ever written about an ice cream place before.  But ever since I first set foot here, I’m attracted to this place like Anthony Weiner to selfies.  You wont find Instagrammers lining up around the block.  And you wont find crazy flavors like Bacon infused mocha beet swirl, with vegemite.  But what you will find is simplicity at its absolute finest form, by someone who not only knows the craft well, but matches it perfectly with the neighborhood

img_4016I hate sounding overly cliche sometimes but there’s no other way to say this.  Lorenzo Franchetti is a walking and talking example of someone who followed his dream.  An insurance broker in Milan, turned master gelato maker.  Lorenzo inspiration came from a gelato shop in Milan where he learned the craft under the supervision of galato and chocolate wizzard Vittoria Bortolazzo.  And with this relationship with Vittoria, the mild mannered Loreznzo opened a second outpost of Gelato Giusto in January, 2015.  We all can use a Vittoria at one point in our lives

Gelato Giusto is not just about gelato.  Various confectioneries, sandwiches, great coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice are offered as well.  Lorenzo’s goal is to mimic a typical Milanese quick stop but also adjust to the neighborhood.  If this place was in the middle of Times Square it would have been very different most likely, but smack in the middle of Chelsea, an emphasis on the healthier side of things is necessary.  Which is why half of his small offerings are sorbets which are given the same exact attention as the gelato.  In fact when you taste his hazelnut (from Piedmont) sorbet, the first thing that comes to mind is “is this a mistake, this tastes like gelato”.  With the same kind of richness he narrows the gap.  As with the super refreshing concord grape sorbet, and the sick Sicilian pistachio gelato, the ingredients talk loud and clear.

This place is slowly turning me, a glato lover, into a sorbet junky, but the gelato cant be overlooked.  What is also hard to overlook is how inviting the place is.  Is it chic, modern, comfortable, and very appealing to the eye.  A place that makes you feel good as soon as you walk in on a hot day, where everyone knows your name the second time around.  A place that every neighborhood needs, but sadly the vast majority dont have.  In fat I cant think of any other gelato shop like it.

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Categories: Chelsea, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

4 Days in Montreal

FullSizeRenderThis is essentially a copy and paste from the report I did on Chowhound, with visuals.  Three couple celebrating my friend’s 50th.  Everything we ate in order of appearance

Olive et Gourmando – Enjoyed the grilled cheese sandwich and the vibe.  Vowed to return for breakfast but they only open at 9 which I find a little strange.

Le Serpent – Started with a bang.  Menu right up my alley, with exceptional execution.  Industrial space and feel in the old city, though way out of the tourist trail.  Started with a fine sliced Octopus covered by a thin layer of potato mousseline.  A very nice Foie gras looking like two pigs in a blanket without the blanket, with blackcurrant, quinoa, and macadamia nuts.  The pastas here are absolutely sensational and so difficult to pick.  The best for me was probably the Bucatini with pork flank confit, black garlic, soy – a pungent, punch to the face on every bite.  Close second was the the Linguine, speck, almonds, cauliflower, truffle brunoise.  Garganelli, pistachio, nordic shrimp, asparagus, mint was good, while the lobster risotto had a nice minty flavor but forgettable.  The risotto is the most popular dish here for some reason, but with all those pastas around I would skip it.  From the mains, the branzino was great, but the Pork jowl with that melt in your mouth porky awesomeness stole the show.  Maple pudding easily won the dessert round.  Tremendous mealIMG_1450 IMG_1447

Schwartz – Enjoyed this Katz’s of the north.  Dont know if I prefer over Katz’s or something more obscure like Harry & Ida’s in NYC, but I enjoyed the whole experience.  Our options were fatty, medium or lean.  Not sure if I could have asked for “medium-fat” instead of just “medium”, but mine could have used more fat.  My wife’s “medium” was a little more peppery than mine which could have used a little more seasoning, but it was fine.  I like the the thickness and the way its sliced.  A notch above Mile End, our Montreal style smoked meat in NYC.  At Schwartz we also had our only classic poutine of the trip.  It was good, but no idea how it compares.IMG_1496

Ma Poule Mouillée – Out of everything Montreal has to offer, bagels, poutine, smoked meat, etc, to me the Portuguese stuff was the most interesting.  Birds spinning everywhere you turn.  This place certainly didnt disappoint, and judging by the line by the time we were leaving, it felt like we came to the right place.  Shared the #2 for two, a huge plate of half chicken and fries.  Since piri piri can be quite spicy in Lisbon and I was sharing it, I asked for “medium”.  Could have used a little more heat but the flavor was definitely there.  The chicken was juicy, and the fries once mixed with the chicken sauces and spices turned out better than the Poutine at lunch time.  They also have above average Pastel de Nata (egg custards)IMG_1554 IMG_1553

Jean Talon Market – Perhaps the finest collection of produce I’ve ever seen anywhere, and an absolutely spectacular market.  Beets with colors I never knew exist.  Great tasting berries, and ground cherries.  Spicy peanut butter from something called Mamba or something.  Marmite su’l feu served us a place of traditional delicasies from the island of Réunion, like a mix between creole and Indian.  The falafel-like beet based fried ball was my favorite there.  Across from them, we got a very nice plate of jerk potato plate but forgot the name.  All sorts of nice artisanal action on that particular isle.  But the ground cherries and the corn were the highlights for me.  Peaches and Cream corn was perhaps the sweetest corn I ever tasted.  Picked up some baguettes at Joe la Croûte (good), and later excellent coffee at Café Larue & fils.  Though passing by Le Pain dans les Voiles, I regretted not going there for pastry and coffee.  I suspected they were just a bakery like Joe la Croûte but looked more than thatIMG_1623

Bier Markt – Spotted this fancy bar for a break on our way to the hotel.  The place looked very inviting and “happening”.  They walked us to the second floor which looked like fun as well.  Pretty people, large screens everywhere, nice looking sprawling bar.  The anticipation started to grow… which table are we getting, this place looks awesome, this is gonna be great.  Then they lead us to another floor up, to an empty hall that now resembles an empty Chinese palace with round tables.  We were too tired to complain, and convinced ourselves that we can use the quiet.  A huge beer selection that looked more impressive than it actually is.  I got a nice local IPA, pretzel, wings (not bad at all), and more poutine.

L’Express – So this was our only disappointing experience.  All signs pointed to this being one of Montreal’s most popular traditional bistros if not the most popular.  Although I visted Paris a few times, and these types of bistros before, I wasnt entirely sure what to expect in Montreal.  Looked and felt very old school.  Menu translated in three languages.  The waiter suggested a Bordeaux which we liked.  Chicken liver pate was fine but came without anything else, just pate to be used with the table bread they served.  Octopus covering lentils like a hockey puck didnt have any distinct flavor.  The waiter enthusiastically talked about the tartare.  He asked whether I want it spicy and I said yes.  I liked it, but got tired of it in a hurry, and hardly detected any heat or much flavor.  Unlike many tartares I’ve had it also didnt look very appealing.  My wife’s steak with fries looked and tasted fairly pedestrian.  Desserts here were more interesting.  Got the last ‘floating island’ French classic which we enjoyed (thanks for the tip), and the coffee creme brulee special was pretty unique and excellent.  The saving grace here was that out of the six of us, my wife and I were the only people disappointed with our meal.IMG_1640 IMG_1649

Bagels – I wind up trying both of the institutions.  Hard to fall in love with these coming from our NYC bagel culture as these felt a little bland, and sweet, but I appreciated the light and airy texture.  My sesame bagel with cream cheese at Fairmont was fine.  At St-Viateur I ordered just a plain one and got it fresh out of the oven.IMG_1659

Salmigondis – Enjoyed this brunch in Little Italy.  Nothing too unusual or unique about this place (that I can see) but no complaints about anything.  “Fried Rabbit” is their take on Chicken with waffles.  Nicely cooked rabbit loin with rye waffles, Lapsang tea marinated soft boiled egg, and watercress.  The watercress is a good example of how greens can elevate a dish, while the egg added nothing.  I rather have a freshly boiled egg.  French Toast with peach, oat granola, and lemon curd was nice and rich, like any higher end French Toast.  Everyone else enjoyed their meal.  IMG_3771

Bouillon Bilk – For my friend’s 50th I felt like I scored a home run with this one. More like a Delino Deshields inside the park grand slam on a bum knee (ok, that was the first expo that came to mind).  A sensational meal to say the least.  Very plain but smart decor, unassuming looking on a somewhat weird location.  You can easily walk by without noticing it, tho you will notice all the gentleman clubs nearby.  Their tasting menu card means all the items that arent on the menu are also todays specials along with other specials they may have (a Guinea hen on this night).  That meant something like the first course, an Amuse Bouche special ($6) of bay scallops with corn and potato was available.  Great little amuse to set the tone.  The starters, Hamachi, yuzu kosho, grapefruit, fennel, cucumber, and the Cavatelli with truffle, almonds, quail egg, parsley were flawless.  Australian shaved truffles needed a lit more truffle lift from truffle cream but the end result was great.  The halibut, gnocchi, nordic shrimps, artichoke, seaweed butter dish my wife ordered was excellent, but mine was better.  Scallops, cauliflower, shiitake, pear, watercress, beurre noisette (brown butter).  The scallops are perfectly cooked and seasoned and are fine as is, but once dipped in that light greenish brown butter, heavenly.  And those shiitake, confited with awesomeness, pure joy with every morsel.  The Perfect dish.  The ricotta cream won the dessert round.  One of those meals.IMG_1727 IMG_1734 IMG_1735 IMG_1736 IMG_1682

 

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Salmoriglio (Agrigento) – Valley of the Awesomeness

IMG_0026Yesterday I was having lunch with an old friend, and a new friend, and we were discussing my favorite subject in great length, Italy.  There was a moment during the conversation where I tried to convey that between all the sights, scenery, and everything that Italy has to offer, at the end of the day my favorite thing to do there is simply eat.  Those are the moments that stay with me longer than anything else.  I explained how two trips ago, I realized that a day that includes a 3 hour lunch, and a stroll in a small town or winery, is as magical to us than a day filled with sightseeing.  The old friend seemed to understand, while the new friend struggled to relate to such nonsense, but did try her best

IMG_0027Take Salmoriglio, a gem in between two of Sicily’s biggest gems.  The jaw dropping, magnificent Scala dei Turchi, and the mind blowing, inspiring Valley of the Temples.  I was inspired to find water quickly (it was hot), while Mrs Z found her inspiration in the green statue in front the Temple of Concordia.  She was very worried that it’s temporary would be missing, and we all dodged a meltdown as big as when the pissing fountain in Prague wasnt pissing.  But what made the day so perfect was what we did in between those two star attractions.  A meal that was only bested by one particular dinner about 20 minutes off Trapani a few days later.  Its just one of those meals that felt so perfect that day.  And when you look back at the pictures, and go “hey, remember this octopus?” or “hey remember the Gnocchi?” only to get a “Yes, I remember, now can you stop with your food porn and finish emptying the dishwasher already”  Yes dear!

Considering this was lunch in the middle of the week, Salmoriglio in the port town of Porto Empedocle, wasnt exactly buzzing this time.  But a quick look at the kitchen, and the empty rooms inside suggests that the place buzzes often.  We sat outside on the pleasant sidewalk setup, while a team of 4 cooks carefully and masterfully assemble dishes behind the glass.  You get a sense of Michelin type attention to detail without the Michelin prices.  No tourists in sight, almost zero English spoken, but we managed fine with hand signals and my ever so improving “Menu Italian”.. “Ahh, “Uova al Forno?”  Thats “Menu Italian” for “Are the eggs baked”?

We started with a stunning assortment of raw goodies that included scampi, snapper tartare, bacalao, tuna, oysters, and more of that sweet goodness gambero rosso we couldnt get enough of during the trip.  Sliced octopus with olives, capers tomatoes was simple octopus perfection.  Gnocchi with bright fresh red sauce, cheese and basil was outstanding.  Why similar dishes dont taste the same back home?  Ingredients.  Their signature spaghetti with Ricci (sea urchin) delivered richness and flavors I haven’t experienced from Ricci before.  A plate of grilled seafood including just about the best swordfish steak I ever had, more gambero rosso, scampi, calamari and an outrageously delicious baby octopus.  At this point I realized that I prefer the gambero rossos (red shrimp) slightly cooked instead of raw, which gives it a little texture.  Raw is great, but sort of too limp in comparison.  A truly fantastic meal

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Categories: Italy, Sicily | Tags: , , , , , , | 2 Comments

This is Modica

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Top NYC Pastas

A much needed update…

Ziggy's avatarEating With Ziggy

Lincoln StrozzapretiJust a quick note that some of these pastas are seasonal and arent on the menu the entire year, but worth mentioning anyway

Trenette Al Pesto Trapanese at Mercato.

From the port of Genoa sailors brought Trenette al Pesto to Trapani, Sicily where the dish was perfected even further with the addition of almonds.  Homemade chewy dried Trenette cooked to al dente perfection, with almonds, garlic, tomato and basil.  Its fresh, simple, and quite tasty.  I havent seen this dish anywhere else, and at $12, I feel like I negotiated something at the shuk with a simple stare

Mercato Trenette

Fusilli with Octopus and Bone Marrow at Marea

One of two NYC classics on the list, and perhaps the most celebrated pasta in NYC America.  Articles, blog posts, children books (Goodnight Fusilli with Octopus!) have been written about this clasic.  The twisted homemade Fusilli is tossed with the most addictive fresh red sauce you will ever taste, with Sangiovese braised…

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Categories: New York City | 1 Comment

Montreal Random

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Macallè – A Gem Well Hidden in Ortigia, Siracusa

IMG_9176One of the joys of travel to me, not so much to others, is the time spent researching the destination.  Reading food blogs, online magazines, finding those obscure dining spots, stores, attractions.  That new gelato shop that was just opened by a master ice cream maker and not quite on the tourist trail yet.  All part of the fun.  Other travelers we talk to derive no pleasure out of this.  And for some of them, the research process can be a painful chore, like folding laundry, or changing diapers.  Grandpas diapers.  The one thing I learned however over the years is that staying flexible and going with the flow is equally as important.  And no matter how much research you do, you may somehow bump into a Macallè, a place that makes you look silly, with all that research dimmed just about useless.

Researching Sicily is more challenging than mainland Italy due to lack of information out there.  Tourism in general is a fairly new concept for Sicilians, and Italians visiting Sicily.  Its like mainland Italy 20 years ago.  There are practically no food blogs written by locals.  To find the right places you need to make local friends quickly, and in the case of Macallè, friends in high places.  After our tour of the market with chef Lele, I was essentially at his disposal.  First stop was Pani_Co for some local beer tasting, followed by dinner at Macallè where Lele consults.IMG_9181

Macallè, just like 99% of the restaurants we visited in Sicily, is a family affair.  Chef Maurizio, Margherita, and son run a tight ship in a corner of Ortigia not too frequented by tourists.  I didnt think its possible on this island but you may not see one tourist walking by in this corner unless he’s lost and trying desperately to get back.  When I asked Maurizio how a visitor like me would find this place without the help of a Lele, he said I would need to stay in one of the few area hotels that recommends it.  This is the definition of “Hidden Gem”.  And while the place gets generally high praise on Trip Advisor, the TA algorithm that takes into account the quantity of reviews, ranks Macallè fairly low as of this writing.  In Sicily, more than anywhere else, Trip Advisor is king.  Because there’s not much else.

Chef Maurizio created a playful, whimsical take on Sicilian cuisine.  He’s very proud and passionate about his ingredients, and in Slow Food style explains where this and that came from and why.  The menu options include a “Leave it to Macallè” 30 euro 4 courser which we took advantage of, and a la carte items like the sensational chicken.  You will be hard pressed to find a juicier, more flavor packed bird.  It was so good we ordered it twice, something as rare as the Olympics.  Buttery swordfish, pistachio bruschetta with raw Gambero Rosso (red shrimp) from Mazara and white scampi set the tone nicely early on.  Clams with mussels, gnocchi in a delicious clear broth.  After several meals on the island, I realize that Mussels is the one must eat especially in the summer.  That saltiness and flavor stays with you hours later even at the most inappropriate times!  Marinated Squid cooked in three stages, sitting on top of a small hockey puck of mashed potato shows the attention to details here.  Perfectly sautéed tuna on a bed of delicious peppers with sweet sautéed onions.  To make peppers taste this good requires some work and a lot of love.  The kids enjoyed their own Bruschetta (same as ours), the magnificent chicken, and Tagliolini with shrimp and shrimp broth.  Easily our favorite meal in Ortigia.

Macallè
Via Santi Coronati 42/44, Syracuse

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Hell’s Kitchen – Summer Update

ziggysite1New Ramen, Mexican, Sushi, and Indian Lunch Buffet.  Thats right, Indian Lunch Buffet

https://eatingwithziggy.com/2013/06/27/the-hells-kitchen-survival-guide/

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Our Etna Day with Davide

IMG_8694First I will attempt to put this day in perspective.  If for some ever reason, on the way to our hotel, I would have gotten kidnapped, blindfolded, and left in a room somewhere where I would get abused in ways I can not describe for 15 days.  All while able to watch only reruns of Full House, and eat nothing but olives and 2 day old bread.  It still would have been a good day.

I may have to dig the archive or consult with Eating With Ziggy Historians to see if I ever wrote about a tour guide before.  I recall writing about some special accommodations, and experiences, but never really about a particular guide or an experience quite like this.  Guides are becoming a bigger part of our travels which is ironic in a way since its easier than ever these days to research a destination.  I think it was in Portugal when we realized that guides provide much more than information about the subjects you hire them for (food, attractions, etc).  Guides can also help you connect with the local culture, and provide you with an experience that is a lot more meaningful than doing it on your own.

As a result, wife and I had our share of tours over the years.  Some private, some not so.  Some guides we found are extremely knowledgeable, but then turn into encyclopedic funeral directors who put you to sleep.  Some are fun and pleasant to be around, but are not that engaging with kids.  We basically figured out that the most important trait of a guide is not something you can detect from email exchanges or even reviews.  Personality!  Ok, enough reviews do help, but they can easily mislead when guides are likable.  Though in the case of Davide of Continente Sicilia, out of 121 Trip Advisor reviews as of this writing, only one is lower than 5 stars (4 stars)IMG_8643

You can not possibly design a better tour guide.  Recent deregulation now allow anyone to essentially become a tour guide of Mt Etna, and as a result Mt Etna tourism simply took off.  These days most tours out there are operated by knowledgeable but unlicensed guides hoarding tourists on buses, or jeep around the mountain in areas where vehicles arent permitted.  Davide was already licensed before the recent deregulation took place, and is one of a few “Licensed” tour guides remaining.  Did I hype this guy to unmet expectations already?  Good!  😉

I even put full trust in Davide with more serious matters.  Breakfast!  Davide and Lya run the comfortable Agon, a B&B just outside Taormina, by the sea.  Convenient with a car, quiet, and spectacularly fresh baked goodies on offer in the morning courtesy of La Dolceria in nearby Giardini Naxos.  After the tour when Davide learned about my struggles to find Gelsi Neri (Mulberry) Granits (first world problems), he took us straight to the bakery where the Granita was fresher than the one in the famed Caffè Sicilia in Noto

We started the day at Alcantara Gorge for the first wow moment of the day and the entire trip really.  We kept struggling with the name (including my Auto-correct), and kept calling it Alcatraz.  I was fully expecting Davide to take us to the touristy location you see on TA, but instead he took us to a remote location without a human in sight.  It was just us, and 5 very surprised cows, the only Alcatraz inmates.  Davide explained the geology of the area, and the rich fauna and flora, much of which we witnessed.  Then we briefly stopped at the picturesque Castiglione di Sicilia, and Linguaglossa (literally means Tongue Tongue) nearby where we picked up sandwiches and tasted some of the most delicious baked ricotta we ever had.IMG_8610

The hike on Etna Nord couldn’t have been more perfect.  We walked about 6-8 km which was a good fit for my family. The way I tell the degree of fun is by the amount of “are we there yet” “what’s next”, “when do you think we’ll back, I have to check how many likes I got on the picture I  took yesterday” from the youngest.  Zero!  Not a word, as she was not only having a blast, but found new and improved selfie opportunities.  We take full advantage of our National Parks in the USA, and this was as spectacular as it gets.  Steep at times but manageable. The contrast of the colors, the craters, the fractures, the dead Lord of the Rings trees (it will catch on, you heard it here first).  At the top of a crater (one of many) every 50 meters yielded a different spectacular view.  Davide provided walking sticks that came in handy

At one point while walking behind Davide I saw him pick up a small water bottle cap from the ground which seemed a little strange when taking into account the massiveness of this place.  His knowledge and love for this mountain is very evident.  Quite possibly the most easy going, fun to be around guide we’ve ever met.  One you want to be friends with, and who is interested in you just as much as the tour.  A tour full of intangibles, like the knowledge and understanding we got about Palermo and its struggles with the mafia.  A tour I cant recommend enoughIMG_8621 IMG_8625 IMG_8632 IMG_8641 IMG_8644 IMG_8686 IMG_8676 IMG_8735 IMG_8730 IMG_8723 IMG_8696 IMG_8708

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Categories: Sicily | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

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