New York City

Somtum Der – Now Derring in Red Hook

Posted on May 25, 2023 by Ziggy

In the land of the new and exciting, its often easy to overlook the established and proven. The “What’s new” questions on social media by people that visited the city once or twice before have always been a mystery to me. Did you try any of the other 99.9%, like Pig and Khao, Minetta Tavern, Popina, etc etc. Are they stale? What exactly is wrong with them? There’s always something new and exciting, but the real question is who will make it past year one, or year ten. 60% fail in their first year, 80% fail within five, and very few make it to 10.

The Z-List Thai staple Somtum Der not only keep soldiering on in the East Village but is now doing it in Red Hook, Brooklyn. While East Village is ultra competitive as I keep saying for years due to the lack of tourists and abundance of students, opening in no-train Red Hook is just another level of Chutzpah. Generally Thai restaurants in Red Hook and neighboring Columbia Street Waterfront District (because real estate firms havent come up with a cute 2 syllable name) dont last very long. See Pok Pok, Krok .

Somtum Der was one of the first to introduce New Yorkers to fiery Isan food when it opened in East Village a decade ago. That was only a year after opening in Bangkok. Both places are in the Michelin guide if you care about such things. In fact the East Village location even got a Michelin star that lasted a whole 5 minutes. The new Red Hook location has exactly the same menu, with pictures. If you dont like menus with colorful pictures, you are probably not enjoying life to the fullest. If we were to give awards to menus with the most vibrant pictures, Somtum Der would be an easy three Kodak recipient.

While Somtum is known for the various namesake papaya salads, I der you to find a more flavorful bird in NYC. Just seeing the picture on the menu for me is like a kid hearing the ice cream truck. Along with the marinaded pork with the soothing sticky rice lollypops, the fried chicken thighs is a usual must. The thing about Somtum Der is that they can take any old, stale, dry meat or fish, and make it taste amazing. Thats not to say that its the type of meat we usually encounter here, but that’s the type of seasoning and marinades they use. Its sort of what Isan food is all about. Preserving meat and fish in historically poor areas.

Its also worth noting the weekly specials, in particular the sickest mushroom salad I ever had, Goi Hed. (invented by someone who thought the Beech mushrooms reminded them of uncircumcised penises). Out of the regulars, last time in Brooklyn we also enjoyed the garlic beef with rice, and a serviceable Pad Thai. My first Pad Thai in maybe 20 years. Blame the pictures.

The cool thing about the Brooklyn location is that it has a lovely garden that feels like you are in a neighbor’s BBQ. Another plus is that its in the heart of Red Hook, walking distance to the legendary Steve’s Key Lime Pie, an important former stop on my Brooklyn tour (RIP). I go straight for the raspberry Swingle these days. Might as well also check out the Merchant Stores Building next door. If it doesnt work out with Mrs Z, my next wedding venue will be at the The Liberty Warehouse. But next month will be 30 years, so who really knows…

Somtum Der
85 Avenue A (East Village)
380 Van Brunt St (Red Hook)
Recommended Dishes: Fried Chicken, Marinadet grilled pork, Mushroom salad (special), Garlic beef

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Foul Witch – The Witches of Easthood

Posted on May 16, 2023 by Ziggy

The Witches of Eastwick is a 1987 flick starring the last remaining aging celebrities who didnt declare their political alliances (minus Cher). Foul Witch is a 6 month old restaurant in East Village. To be precise on a rather strange corner of Ave A (Houston), dangerously close to the tourist central Katz’s Deli, and Il laboratorio del gelato. By dangerous I mean you may be tempted to consider them for your first and last course, but I’m here to convince you otherwise, at least for the first course.

Foul Witch is the highly anticipated New American/Italian from the people that brought us Roberta’s, Roberta’s to-go, and Roberta’s in [name any food hall]. It seems like Roberta’s pizza footprints are all over the city, including in the nearby Market Line food hall in the form of a sound NY style pizza by an alumni. But with the now closed two Michelin Blanca, Carlo Mirarchi and co. long proved that there’s much more than pizza up their sleeves.

The hype surrounding Foul Witch means in order to reserve a table, you may want to move to Sidney Australia for a few months where ressies open in the middle of the day. Unless you are a night owl, its virtually impossible to do so here. Are there day owls? I thought all owls are night owls by definition. I dont understand the rationale of releasing reservations at midnight, as oppose to 9 or 10 am as some are doing for us day owls.

Then how did you score one Ziggy? Another outstanding question Timmy. I tried for months. I must have had ‘Notify’ on for many days which for me rarely works. My plan was to arrive 15 minutes prior to opening and get seats at the bar. Instead, early in the morning on the day of, I had two tabs open on Resy (Claud, the other one) and lo and behold, after only a few hundred refreshes, a 5 PM spot opened up. I pounced like a morning puma.

I think every meal at Foul Witch should start with the “Fire and Ice”. Ice for creamy Stracciatella, Fire for ‘Nduja, that glorious spreadable Calabrian goodness. Why not just call it Stracciatella and ‘Nduja. Its not like the rest of the menu is a puzzle. Extra Brownie point for the the delicious free bread in today’s $10 bread NYC. And another brownie for room temp spreadable butter, another NYC luxury. Minus one brownie for no brownies on the menu.

The Veal Tortellini in Brodo is some serious witchcraft. In a very Italian fashion, big, deep flavors come from very little meat. And that sweetness from the amaretto in the Brodo adds another layer. Ingredients, and attention to detail are key as expected, and its especially evident in the Sunchoke Caramelle. Freakishly good candy shaped pasta with lemon, and poppyseeds.

The menu changes more often than the one shown online, so you may be disappointed or thrilled. And while the prices seem fair, you will be tempted to order more than the usual two dish per. One reason is that some of the smaller items like the excellent buttery Sorana Beans are more like glorified sides you’d want to pair with the mains.

The lone main we tried was also the lone miss. The roasted shoulder of goat had a nice flavor, but lacking in texture, and a bit too much gristle for our taste. The buttered turnips and ramps were the best part of the dish. Oh, I just realized why. Buttered! We skipped dessert.

Italian craft beer lovers would be in beer heaven at Foul Witch. Although I really liked my aromatic Portuguese white Douro blend, I’m not skipping the beer next time. Two drinks, 5 dishes, tip/tax amounted to around $200. The space is comfortable, and intimate. As one would expect, friendly and efficient staff, especially Arlet the Sommelier. Go! If you can get in.

Foul Witch
15 Avenue A (East Village)
Recommended Dishes: Fire and Ice, Veal Tortellini, Sunchoke Caramelle, Sorana Beans

Ave Q art on Ave A

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Foxface Natural – A Star is (re)Born

Posted on May 2, 2023 by Ziggy

Long time readers and my East Village food tour (RIP) participants are all too familiar with Foxface, the little sandwich shop that could. It is now Foxface Natural. As in the natural progression from a successful sandwich shop to a full service restaurant in the former Harry and Ida’s space. This first meal was a bitter sweet moment for me, after spending countless hours munching on pastrami at Harry and Ida’s over the years. They did call the cops on me once, but two nights in jail was a very small price to pay.

My first meal, of most likely many, at Foxface Natural was a memorable one. Though there’s one tiny issue with the place I should tell you about first. Its not really open yet. This was a pre-opening hummus and oysters themed event with chef Maoz Alonim of the famed Basta in Tel Aviv. EWZ historians will tell you that I dont normally attend such events, as I’m more of a “see you in about a year” type. But I attended this one, as I’m all too familiar with chef/owner Sivan’s capabilities.

So this is more of a public announcement rather than a lengthy review. What we got was a small preview of things to come. And with Sivan’s range, its anyone’s guess what will be on the menu on day one. Although something tells me the plate of the most distinct tasting pickles I’ve ever seen, and I, will exchange pleasantries in the future.

The old smoker that stayed behind is responsible for most of the hits. A superb lamb shoulder sitting on top of ultra creamy hummus, with a punchy green S’chug (Yemenite hot sauce). I’m more of a red S’chug guy, but good S’chug is good S’chug. Another hit was a slow smoked goat that comes with a soothing spiced yogurt sauce, almonds and mint.

And just because we dont eat nearly enough Feta at home (inside joke), we just had to try the Feta with eggplant, roasted in the new wood fired oven, sitting on a beautiful nettle puree. The lone dessert of Tahini Gelato with pistachios was just the proper finish.

Its a refreshing “mom & pop” debut in an increasingly corporate Manhattan. Old Harry and Ida’s fans will not recognize the new space, about a year in the making. The bar dominates the long room (I forgot to take pictures), and its safe to expect good wine. There will be wonderful smoked meat, glorious fish, but more importantly with Sivan, expect the unexpected.

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Au Cheval – Anatomy of a Burger

Posted on April 12, 2023 by Ziggy

When your spouse goes, “I feel like a Burger”, in NYC you might as well take your Ibuprofen 600 right at that moment. Not in 20 minutes, not in an hour, no sense of waiting any longer. Take it, and call in sick the next day. In most cities in the US its a fairly simple request. But here, before you know it, your mind goes berserk with a circus of possibilities. What kind, what kind of place, where? Do you want shake shack, other fast-food, fast-casual, diner, any of the 798 restaurants we know, steakhouse? All offer 50 shades of burger. You can also sub burger with pizza and get the same results.

With that said, this time wasnt as bad as before, and Au Cheval came to mind fairly quickly. A place that opened to much fanfare three years ago. You see, I’m one of those weird food bloggers that can wait years to eat at a popular place. I’m fairly low on the FOMO scale. I have one or two names in my head that stick around for a while until I forget about them or replace them. At the moment the name is Foul Witch. Cant reserve it for the life of me.

Au Cheval in Chicago, IL. Photo by Kevin J. Miyazaki/PLATE

Au Cheval is a Chicago import that’s billed as a diner. I dont know about Chicago, but calling this a diner in NYC is like calling an old school steakhouse, a shoe store. They both sell stuff. To find the place, you may need to play restaurant hide and seek. Even when you find the tiny alley, you still need to look for it. Once you enter, it feels like a hidden speakeasy.

There’s nothing extraordinary about the burger. “Then why are you dedicating an entire post to it, Ziggy?” Another good question Timmy. The answer is, as per above, NYC is blessed with a number of fancy burgers. And this is just a really solid burger. Its more of a sum of its parts situation, as opposed to a particularly noteworthy patty.

Its a regular burger on steroids, especially once you add the suggested fried egg and bacon. The bun is a perfectly soft brioche. Just the kind of softness and sturdiness you want from the supporting role. You get three thick cut, peppery and salty bacon strips that add just enough crispiness and flavor. The egg I usually find is more for aesthetics, but that’s not a negative. You get much of the juiciness from the American Cheese, and the “dijonaise”. All this results in a very satisfying bite for burger lovers, and most likely haters. Hence the long waits early on.

Its not a cheap burger if you opt to include the bacon and egg. Its $22 without, and just north of $30 with. Add the fries which I recommend sharing, and its way past your normal burger with fries price. But thats Manhattan for you these days. As for the rest of the menu, its actually quite interesting. I heard. I havent even glanced at it, but the many reports sound promising. Some, like Eater even claim, the burger is one of the least interesting items. But judging by how many burgers we’ve seen parading the room, good luck trying to order anything else.

Au Cheval
33 Cortlandt Alley (Tribeca)

Au Cheval

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Rana Fifteen – Turkish Delights in Park Slope

Posted on March 21, 2023 by Ziggy

Quick, whats the opening lyrics of Bohemian Rhapsody? If you said “Mama”, you are in the majority, and wrong. If you said. “Is this the real life?”, you probably looked it up, after thinking Mama first. No matter how many times we listened to it, we are conditioned to think Mama first. It’s either somehow stuck, or the subconscious default answer as to many other things. How did you learn to cook? Mama. Why do you hate Mushrooms? Mama. Why do you rather not re-enter the house after forgetting something and instead ask me to bring it to you outside even if it means wasting precious minutes? Mama.

Mama was the reason why I didnt care so much for fish growing up. Then I realized I only knew her fish, and there’s other fish in the sea. My answer to how I learned to cook is actually Google. Both of our mom’s are typical eastern European “hold the flavor” cooks. When I go to my in-laws, they know to put certain dishes away from me, and the salt and pepper grinders as close as possible. I’m the only one using the grinders. They are so old they’ve become sticky, and although I continue to use them, I suspect most of the flavor is gone by now.

So instead, we live vicariously through restaurateurs that got their inspiration from moms that can flat out cook. Take Rana Fifteen, a newish joint on the border of Park Slope and Gowanus. Owner Ahmet Kiranbay’s mom Rana, as many moms in Western Turkey, would lay out a feast for the senses on every meal. Fifteen dishes approximately. Hence the number of plates you get if you choose the Rana’s Table option at Rana Fifteen. Just pick the main, one of the three sides, and you get everything but the kitchen sink.

They start you off with the appetizers. Like, all of them. And all of them have an ingredient or two that gives them the extra oomph. From the supremely flavorful garlic shrimp, to the perfectly creamy Labneh, to the as cool as the other side of the pillow Tarama fish roe. It will take a good amount of time to try all of them, and it will take an equal of amount figuring out your favorites. I crowned the Labneh, but there was no wrong answer.

As for the mains, so far, unconventionally we tried the chicken and Iskender steak as opposed to seafood. The steak was a nicely cooked strip topped with tangy tomato sauce (hence Iskender), sitting on top of bits of pita with yogurt on the side. I always hesitate to touch the yogurt when things work. The chicken is nicely spiced, albeit not easy to cut. While I enjoyed the two, seeing the octopus and branzino parade around the room, made me dream of coming back for a third feast. Note, this deal is for two people minimum, and you share a main for two. Its more than enough food.

The first meal was brunch, and the concept is similar. Just pick the egg dish and you get that to share plus a thoughtful array of a dozen or so savory and sweet homemade delights including outstanding pancakes and spreads. A symphony of flavors. There are only two egg dishes to choose from, which I kind of like. Less is more. I usually stop reading when I see a Menemen, one of my all time favorite eggy creations. You can have them scrambled, or Shakshuka style

Rana Fifteen is the latest from Ahmet Kiranbay and Armando Litiatco, the duo that brough us another EWZ darling, FOB Filipino. I tend to stalk the chefs I like. This duo is what NYC food is all about. A multinational homage to our ancestors. The Rana experience is closer to eating in someone’s home, rather than eating in a typical Manhattan resto. The friendly “Brooklyn casual” service, and exposed beams are the perfect fit. Meaning, dont expect your glass to be filled every 5 minutes, or even know the name of your waiter. Just go and enjoy mama’s cooking at its finest.

Rana Fifteen
209 4th Ave (Park Slope)
Recommended Dishes: Rana’s Table (Brunch, Dinner)

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Sweets Village

Posted on March 15, 2023 by Ziggy

Do you ever cross to the other side of the city for dessert or are you normal? Whether we are finishing lunch in Tribeca, dinner in Hell’s Kitchen, or brunch in Greenpoint, we often end up in East Village. It can take 30-60 minutes to make the schlep, but that’s just part of living here. Unlike in say Florida, or anywhere else pretty much, 30 minutes doesnt feel very long here.

Why dessert in East Village? Same answer as why there’s so much Thai food in Hell’s Kitchen, and do pigeons pee. I’m not really sure. But I suspect its part of the same sad reality I’ve been talking about for many years… location location location. East Village is the last Manhattan neighborhood where mom and pops can still easily open shop. That’s been the case for a while now. But during the last few years, there’s been an inflow of supremely talented bakers essentially completing the picture of Sweets Village.

Between the dessert bars, ice cream, and all the new and old bakeries, you got a wealth of sugary options scattered all over the area. But what makes it an embarrassment of riches is the high quality and the variety of experiences, from a fancy multi course dessert meal to a simple croissant. Ok, not so simple. And as for the quality, I dont ever recall seeing so many lines for sweets on a Saturday afternoon. While you’ll find a bad case of FOMO in every neighborhood these days, in EV its on a block by block basis.

I will not be able to cover all of them, as I have more important things to do, like argue with random people on Twitter, but here are some solid options for your next sweets crawl.

Librae Bakery (35 Cooper Sq) – One of the newer kids already generating much buzz. A Bahrain import, so expect middle eastern influences like Za’atar Labneh Morning Bun. But many, including us line up for the Pistachio Rose Croissants, a rich, airy, ultra flaky pastry, so messy you’ll feed all the resident squirrels on the go.

La Cabra – (152 2nd Ave) – Another new one generating long lines, perhaps the longest of the bunch. A Copenhagen import specializing in coffee, but people flock for the sick cardamom buns. I suspect you’ll see more of that in NYC soon, just like Basque Cheesecakes and other trends.

ChikaLicious Dessert Bar (203 E 10th St) – I’ve written about this place a few times in the past. Chika Tillman is a local legend. Grab a seat at the counter (if you can) and watch her and her talented assistant make magic. Pick the dessert from the menu for $25 and you’ll get a treat before and after. The outrageously light and delicious Fromage Blanc Island Cheese Cake has been on the menu from the beginning. A one of a kind experience in NYC.

Spot Dessert Bar (13 St Marks Pl) – Another fantastic dessert parlor, with full service. Incredibly unique, instagramble creations. Every single item I’ve had here including all the regulars and many specials were insanely delicious. I cant figure out my favorites, though my family is partial to the Matcha Lava, but really just the lava part, not so much the matcha ice cream. The Harvest might be the most famous.

Lady Wong (332 E 9th St) – Another Asian inspired dessert boutique. Run by a creative duo who spent a significant time cooking in high end restaurants in Singapore, including Michelin starred. You’ll see plenty of green items, due to the wide use of Pandan. Give the Panna Cotta a try, especially if you are a coconut lover. A sharp reminder that every dessert should come with a syrup dispenser.

Veniero’s Pasticceria & Caffe (342 E 11th St) – The grandaddy. One of the last remaining old Italian bakeries, offering fantastic cheesecakes, tiramisu, and all the rest of the classics. Its as old as the Brooklyn bridge!

Caffè Panna (77 Irving Pl) – Not in East Village, but close enough (Gramercy) and worth mentioning. This is where we go for some of the best Affogato in NYC.

This is a good start but there’s much more. Another place generating much buzz is Baonanas and its banana pudding. I havent had the pleasure (as of this writing, this may change any hour). There’s also no shortage of quality gelato and ice cream, although the best are just a bit outside of East Village… il laboratorio, Amorino… But deliciousness has no borders. Bon Appetit!

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LumLum – The Transformers

Posted on March 8, 2023 by Ziggy

Long time EWZ readers, both of them, may remember Pam Real Thai, a Hell’s Kitchen staple for many years. I spent countless hours at Pam slurping on spicy Kee Mao Noodles and the legendary oxtail soup while staring at the slightly crooked portrait of Pam on the wall. The room, with its wooden furniture was comfortable but not particularly attractive. And there was often a slightly unpleasant smell to match the atmosphere. The menus were decades old, with items crossed out with a pen or stickers. But boy, was the food good.

On my Hell’s Kitchen tours, in front of another legend, Gazala’s Place, I used to talk about one of the underlying rules of eating in the area, especially when it comes to Thai food. The worse the place looked, the better the food, and the more local the clientele. A place featuring attractive chandeliers and wall to wall mirrors, usually also features sweet curries of every rainbow color and mostly tourists. But with the growing young demographic of the area, there’s just so much you can rely on locals. Both Gazala’s and Pam are no more.

Resy

Pam’s replacement LumLum (sort of means “yum” – and yes LumLum – Yum Yum is taken) is a stunner in comparison to Pam’s. And its doing its best to debunk the looks theory. While its different in every way, the food, from what I tried so far, is top notch. Instead of the empty room of Pam’s (mainly at lunch time), and the ability to eavesdrop on Broadway executives, its now a packed house of hungry young FOMOs. Which also means forget about lingering here. Expect to finish within an hour, with drooling vultures waiting by the door at peak times.

But its all worth the effort. To open a Thai place in Hell’s Kitchen requires some major Chutzpah. While I still have a soft spot for Pure Thai Cookhouse nearby, I find LumLum the most interesting Thai in Hell’s Kitchen today, and a safer recommendation. Even though I required a second visit to reach this conclusion. LumLum did not only transform the venue, but the neighborhood back to a Thai powerhouse. Here’s the food rundown…

Moo Krob – Fried pork belly. Nice and crispy. Got a bit boring midway, but possibly because I had it solo.

Kra Prow – Thai Basil with minced chicken (choice pf protein). Serviceable classic. A tad on the sweet side which was surprising considering it got two peppers. Their pepper indication should be taken with a grain of pepper.

Steamed fish – Whole fish, whether steamed or fried is one of the specialties here, and this one did not disappoint. Expertly cooked Branzino, with a particularly complementary cilantro lime broth.

Crying Tiger – Possibly the signature here. The steak tasted better than the picture shows, but it was the garlic rice with the crispiness from the shallots, and funky sweetness from the sauce that make this work so well.

Pad Ki Mao – My kryptonite when it comes to Thai food. Not “Thai Spicy” as the chart says, but as spicy as Ki Mao should be, and as flavorful as they come. Although next time I would opt for the seafood option over chicken. You get a choice of Tofu, chicken, beef, mixed seafood, or crab. Leave the crab for…

Nam Ya Poo (turmeric coconut curry with crab and rice noodles on the side) – This was oddly closer to the advertised “Thai Spicy” and had pretty good depth. Dipping the rice noodles in that bowl was food magic. Probably favorite dish here.

Squid ink soup – Didn’t have it but worth noting as its another specialty here. I was mainly concentrating on shareable dishes

Coconut Sticky Rice with Mango – Good for what it is. Not quite as polished as the version at Pure Thai Cookhouse

While the complete makeover made the place much more attractive in and out, LumLum popularity makes it a tad less comfortable than it’s predecessor. The kitchen is like a machine, programmed to get all your dishes out in a timely manner, so you might get them all at the same time. And the table arrangements make for a tight fit. On my second visit, when one of us needed to go to the restroom, we had to draw a plan. Who moves where, and how to avoid bumping into other diners. And in addition to not quite being “Thai Spicy”, its also not quite as “Thai Friendly” as one can expect. But the last time I checked, this is a blog about food. Go!

LumLum
404 W 49th St (Hell’s Kitchen)
Recommended Dishes: Steamed Fish, Crying Tiger, Pad Ki Mao, Nam Ya Poo

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Chveni Cafe – Meet the Newest Georgian Sensation

Posted on February 28, 2023 by Ziggy

Did anyone notice that influencers stopped posting cheese boat pictures, and moved on to Birria? It feels like we are in the midst of a Georgian food inflection point. Much has changed since Tone Cafe introduced south Brooklynites to Georgian bread and Khachapuri a couple of decades ago. You can now find decent Georgian in Manhattan and Queens, but south Brooklyn is where they keep multiplying in an increased pace. Its not just Brighton Beach anymore, but Bensonhurst and now Bay Ridge joining the party.

Chveni Cafe at the north edge of Bensonhurst is probably the closest we’ll get to my old high school (FDR) on this blog. I almost felt the bullying, mainly the ones I initiated, while munching on Khachapuri Chveneburi, a new discovery for me. Its filled with that wonderful Georgian cheese and just enough green onions to satisfy both onion lovers (me), and haters (Mrs Z). Its the one house specialty you wont find anywhere else.

Chveni is primarily if not entirely female owned and operated. A multi talented babushka was running the kitchen during our lunch. And the owners are two best friends who decided to open their first restaurant in a curious but manageable location. Its an area where nothing interesting ever opens, and the only reason to go there until now was for one of those classic Italian pork stores.

Its a full menu in typical Georgian fashion, but you get a sense that the Chvenis can do no wrong. An outstanding rolled eggplant stuffed with a walnut spread. Kupati, huge, juicy, grainy sausages come sizzling, and accompanied with a sauce that compliments them beautifully. Another delicious sizzler is the Shkmeruli, a spatchcocked chicken in milky garlic sauce. Its so crispy and garlicky that you fully forgive the borderline too salty.

Another hit was a cornbread that tasted like a sick Arepa. There’s also a cornbread with cheese. The lone dessert, a huge, fluffy, airy, fresh Napoleon is the best I ever had. But it wasnt until we had the Kharcho soup we took home for next day’s dinner, when we heard the Georgian chant. Or is it Gregorian? It doesnt matter. What matters is that instead of the big chunks of beef we are accustomed to, we got smaller pieces of goodness in a well balanced broth.

Needless to say, this is the start of a beautiful relationship. I dont think I ever had a Georgian meal where everything clicked as such. The room is attractive. The owner (we met one of them) is reserved but friendly, and most importantly knows what Georgian food supposed to look and taste like. Trying the rest of the menu will be a tough task since we’ll be tempted to mimic the last experience. Its that good. Go!

Chveni Cafe
6216 18th Ave, Brooklyn (Bensonhurst)
Recommended Dishes: Khachapuri Chveneburi, Kharcho, eggplant with walnuts, Kupati, Chicken Shkmeruli, Ostri, cornbread, Napoleon

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Haenyeo – Dining Well, Spelling Pourly

Posted on February 15, 2023 by Ziggy

I forget how much I like 5th Ave. The other one, in Park Slope. As soon as you enter it, no matter what area of the city you are coming from, you are transformed into an atmospheric, calm chaos of sorts. And yet very New York, due to the 50 shades of red brownstones (oxymoron?) lining the side streets, and the multi national array of dining options from Caribbean to Israeli, Greek, Indian, and of course French. In the past decade or so, due to the thousands of French immigrants flocking into that part of Brooklyn, new bistros and boulangerie are popping all over the place. French food to me is like Big Bang Theory. I never seek it, but enjoy it whenever I have it. I would love to finally try Le Succulent, among other notables on 5th and surroundings.

But this post is about yet another Korean, Haenyeo. Named after the famous female seafood divers of Jeju Island in South Korea, at the expense of being unpronounceable, and difficult to spell. That’s right. There’s a method behind the title madness. To remember how to spell the name without Googling requires a certain level of concentration akin to the mysterious ability to remember a person’s name after an introduction. What auto shop sells these filters?

This copy and paste gem is run by a husband and mega talented wife team. Sort of like my house. Jenny Kwak is a Korean food pioneer that no one heard about. She opened her first restaurant in 1992, Dok Suni in East Village when she was just 19, before opening a second one with the help of Quentin Tarantino. While the two places eventually closed, they were open long enough not only to garner celebrity fame, but open the door to a plethora of Korean establishments all over town. In fact Oiji and its addictive honey butter chips replaced the very same Dok Suni’s space.

Haenyeo is in the very solid two stars, “very good” category. It has its hits, few misses, and one particular hiccup that not only drives me crazy, but changed the way I order food in restaurants. Bringing the mains before we finish the appetizers is a little pet peeve that grows into a big one at spendy places as such. Its inexcusable really, and I cant even hide my displeasure when it happens. I understand that NYC rent is sky high, but at least let me enjoy something with my wife for a full 90 minutes. Anyway, here’s the food and drink rundown..

The Squid and the Whale cocktail – mizu lemongrass shochu + sesame oil + egg white. Love Sesame oil in cooking, but it was just too prevalent and too weird for me in a drink. I was intrigued due to the rave reviews. Maybe if it came with a side bowl of noodles?

School Girl cocktail – blanc de blanc + elderflower liqueur + lychee. Wife liked it and demands I now make it every Thursday (while pretending to be a school boy, which I dont mind but why does it have to be catholic).

Grilled oysters – seaweed butter, brioche toast. Nice and buttery escargot-like oysters. Not the heavy breaded ones you find in NOLA. Kwak’s husband is from New Orleans hence oysters and Beignets on the menu.

Crispy wings – yang yum. Sweet, sour and spicy. Typical high end Korean wings. Thats a good thing.

Dukboki – fundido saucy & spicy rice cake, chorizo, Oaxaca cheese. Probably our favorite dish of the night. Mexican, some may even say Staten Island inspired (bakes ziti, a SI staple) but unmistakable Korean flavors. Best part is the Oaxaca cheese soaked (eventually) in all that chili.

Sablefish filet – pan sauté simmered in soy garlic sauce. Very good. Like a nice and flaky miso glazed cod.

Kalbi jjim – beef short ribs, carrot, jalapeño. Supremely flavorful, tender short ribs in a thin broth. Served with plain dry white rice for some reason, but still an enjoyable dish.

Sugar dusted beignets – Not bad. Not nearly as fried, or good as the famous Cafe du Monde. More like sugar dusted Gnocco Fritto. Try not to make the mistake I usually make, exhale while biting.

Final cost for two $220, but we ordered an extra dish. Expect something more in the $180-200 range, although I would recommend sharing a main and ordering a bunch of apps instead of what I actually did in this case. Worth checking out.

Haenyeo
239 5th Ave, Brooklyn (Park Slope)
Recommended Dishes: Wings, Oysters, Dubkoki, Sablefish, Short Ribs, Beignets

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | 3 Comments

Tia Pol – Just Basque a Move

Posted on February 11, 2023 by Ziggy

Eating With Ziggy

Tia Pol ShrimpFebruary 9, 2023 Update:

Z-List staple Tia Pol is still the same ol’ Tia Pol.  Maybe not quite entirely Basque, but a multi-region tapas/pintxo playhouse.  The very full menu hasnt changed much since 2004, and to fully take advantage of it, its best to come with a group of 4 or so.  Its not exactly a new and exciting place, so easy to reserve unlike so many places in the city today.  Here’s the latest food rundown.

The Highlights:
Squid ink with rice – Sweet, savory, awesomeness.  A must order every meal for us.
Chicken liver mousse – New menu discovery. Top notch mousse with lovely Sherry notes
Lamb meatballs – A special.  Lamb meatballs at a tapas joint is an automatic order, and this is why

The Solids
Skirt steak – Expertly cooked, flavor packed special
Patatas Bravas – As good as it gets in NYC.
Gernika peppers  –…

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Categories: New York City | Leave a comment

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