Anguilla

Anguilla – How to Gain 7 Pounds in 7 Days

One of my most popular posts and a lot of fun to update over the years was a similar title for TCI, where I offer a 7 day eating itinerary. Granted I havent updated that in over 5 years (blame Anguilla). Although this is the same concept, I will focus on my favorite 4 dinners and 4 lunches and will give suggestions on the rest of the week. While my three visits so far dont give me the same amount of expertise as the over 20 in TCI, I think I got a pretty good handle on things in tiny and delicious Anguilla.

7 Lunches

Sunshine Shack – A no brainer and not exactly a secret. It is a lot more popular these days than on our first visit. Still, this is a shack in its core, not a full blown restaurant. You’ll just need to wait a bit for the food. Get the frozen BBC (Banana Baileys Coconut) to start which will fill you up like an appetizer, to make that wait a lot less painful, and fun). There are only a few items on the menu. I prefer the chicken and ribs combo over the expensive lobster.

Blanchards Beach Shack – Another popular shack, but very different than SS. This is more of a full crew cross between a Caribbean shack and American fast casual. You got multiple windows for orders, pickup and drinks. Even in slower months expect lines to order and waits for the food (you get a buzzer). But its worth it for the crafty salads and sandwiches. Try the Jerk Burger.

Johnno’s – This pick might surprise the hardcore Anguilla fans. By day, a very low key, rustic joint, overlooking beautiful Sandy Ground. By night, well, I wouldnt know. I’ve only been during the day, and each time I got the quintessential Anguillan treatment, including fresh, well cooked food. And a strong rum punch to boot. Sunday is funday with live music. In a way Johnno’s reminds me of Flamingo’s in TCI. Try the steamed snapper with Fungi, and/or Shrimpi Scampi, as long as you forget everything you know about shrimp scampi.

Vincy – I’ve already written about Vincy. The restaurant is one of the newer kids on the block, but the talented Vincy the owner has been around. The view overlooking Sandy Ground adds to the atmosphere at lunch, and the food is not too shabby. Vincy keeps things relatively simple with the ingredient driven menu. Try the shrimp tacos and grilled snapper with lemon sauce.

The rest

Falcon Nest – Another casual shack/bar with a full menu of goodies. Try the seafood pasta

Trattoria Tramonto – Good place to hang out on a gorgeous beach. Try the Vongole

Tasty’s – Solid local cuisine for lunch or dinner. Try the seafood salad

7 Dinners

Jacala – One of my favorite restaurants in the entire Caribbean. Even now, without the Jac half (retired), hospitality and cooking at the highest level. Some like it for lunch, overlooking beautiful Meads Bay, but I think this is the type of meal that should be experienced at night. Its French at its core, utilizing local ingredients with the expertise of a seasoned master (the “Ala” part). Try the tuna tartare, the stupendous chicken, and grilled crayfish.

Hibernia – Another absolute must. You can pretty much copy and paste everything I said about Jacala above, except that its a very different place. A French and Asian mashup pioneer, opened before it even became a thing in Paris (today you can find them in almost every corner). And the museum-like environment and view is a major bonus. While I’m listing it for dinner, I think everyone should try to experience Hibernia for lunch at least once. Try the Foie Gras, smoked fish trio, any of the fish dishes, and homemade rum raisin ice cream

Straw Hat – Although not exactly new to us, its a new addition to the rotation. In fact I think we’ll make it our early first night meal from now on. It has just the right kind of “Welcome to Anguilla” thing going. You got the view of Meads Bay beach, great frozen drinks (BBC!), and expertly cooked food with a clever mix of local and eclectic items. Try the flatbread, goat curry, and snapper.

Blanchards – A 25 year old legend and one of the most popular spots on the island. I admit it took me a few trips to finally try it, as the menu looked a bit too New Yorkish for me. But I get it now. Just like its beach shack, a well-oiled machine by an exceptionally friendly and capable crew. Try the jerk chicken, and do not leave the island without trying the famous Cracked Coconut. Although the Bread pudding isnt too shabby either.

The rest:

Mango’s – Some of the island’s best and freshest seafood

Artisan – Solid Neapolitan pizza

E’s Oven – Popular with locals. Try the Pumpkin soup, goat curry, skip the steak

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Vincy {Anguilla} – Moving Up

Literally and figuratively. I had a hard time coming up with the next post idea. I should be writing about our excellent meals at Blanchards or Straw Hat. But I want to write about a new discovery where we only had three dishes, and one was a Caesar salad! Hence, not a marathon post, but short, fresh and simple, like the Vincy menu. Well, except maybe the short part.

Chef Vincia “Vincy” Hughes moved her newish restaurant from Sandy Ground to a location towering right above Sandy Ground. Like a factory manager getting a promotion and a new office overlooking the factory. While some of the details of the view are not particularly pleasing, the view as a whole is mesmerizing. If you close one eye you are staring at the Croatian coastline. If you close both, you will eventually fall asleep. Not recommended during lunch at Vincy.

A pleasant roomy patio with a view, with exceptional food and smiles to match. In genuine Anguilla fashion, a staff that exhibits a level of hospitality that I dont even experience in NYC, not alone in other Caribbean islands. What is it about Anguilla? I dont usually pay much attention to service, but this was hard not to notice. People seem to love what they do and genuinely happy to meet you. 

Like many chefs in Anguilla, Vincy’s resume includes some of the top high end resorts on the island. Unlike so many, Vincy opted to showcase her skills the best way she can, at her own pace and place. And unlike so many, she often comes out to say hello. Chefs have a tough job, but that connection makes a difference. And besides it gave me the opportunity to confirm that I ordered correctly despite the sweet aroma of a goat curry she’s been cooking the last hour. The plan of having it at E’s Oven down the road later that day gave me comfort.

That aforementioned Caesar was a solid as they come, and an indication of things to come. The older we get the more we appreciate a good Caesar, and we are getting very close to know how to spell it without looking. The blackened shrimp tacos were superb. Wonderful warm tortillas, slaw, tomato. Loaded, but nothing overpowering the perfectly cooked shrimp.

But the one dish that persuaded me to leave my lounge chair and drive the 15 minutes (the equivalent of 90 in NYC) was a grilled whole snapper with lemon butter. It did not disappoint. She keeps it fresh and simple, and if the ingredients are not top notch she aint serving it. Adding the dish and the place to our growing Anguilla rotation. Although the rest of the menu reads like the Anguilla food hall of fame, and I would like to try every single dish. 

Did I mention the view? That’s why I recommend a nice longish lunch, over dinner. And if the furniture look familiar, some of it is from this place. This is the beginning of a beautiful, hopefully long relationship.  

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This is Rendezvous Bay (Part Deux)

You know what they say. Once you are able to spell it without googling, you are halfway there. I’m not exactly sure who says it, or know what it means (sounds more like a Yogi Berra quote). But when it comes to certain places with difficult spellings, it rings true. It took me years to finally learn how to spell Rendezvous Bay without looking. Roughly 5 years for “Rendezvous”, and a couple of months for “Bay”. I’m now officially a fan.

Coincidentally I almost misspelled “Deux” here. For a blog with the tagline “Dining Well, Spelling Pourly”, maybe I should let some of these spellings stay. But I cant screw up the title for search purposes. 

Part Deux was more of the same. Same hotel (Rendezvous Bay Hotel), same beach, same beach shacks, same healing powers. The healing powers were especially important as both stays were right after hardships. We’ve been around, especially in this part of the world. I cant think of another beach or place that can better improve your spiritual health. We needed this. 

For city slickers, it can be a religious experience. Until you turn right one day and see a 60+ male wearing a Borat style black thong, and you are stuck with this image for half of the trip. Thats the price you pay when dealing with empty beaches. You are in the mercy of those interrupting the tranquility. Would it kill him to lie on his back just once. On second thought, strike that. Its not a prettier picture.

When the Sunshine Shack is open, you’ll find roughly 90% of the people on this beach there. It evolved from a simple beach shack to one of the most popular simple beach shacks in the Caribbean. Its the Caribbean version of the original Shake Shack. Waits for food can be painful at times so bring your patience, and order a frozen BBC (Baily’s, Banana, Coconut) to fill you up while you wait. Stick to chicken and ribs, as the lobster isnt the best value

There’s not a whole lot I can write that I didnt before, so I’ll just leave you with the original post. More food for thought to come. Just like with the previous installment, its weird to write about some beach at these crazy times. But we can all use a distraction sometimes.

This is Rendezvous Bay – Part 1

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Back to Hibernia {Anguilla}

The triumphant post pandemic return to one of my favorite restaurants in the world.  This time for dinner.  Although we’ll be doing dinners only most likely at this point, you all need to experience this place for lunch.  It’s an experience, even if yo are not the biggest fan of this kind of food.  Though knowing many of my readers personally, chances of you not loving this menu is remote. Not too often we encounter a menu where we want to try every single dish.   

Its an ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’ kinda menu, with some ingredient change but the menu stays the course overall.  We usually start and end the same way.  Foie Gras, smoked fish, with the brilliant rum raisin ice cream with aged rum for the finish.  This time we felt a little naughty and added some prunes with chocolate (looks like we had it before).  This is probably the only time we eat prunes other than.. you know….

Original and rest of the post

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Jacala – Anguilla’s Crème de la Crème

Jacala ChickenMy last Anguilla post of the season.  Although I seem to discuss Jacala often on various social media sites including this blog, it occurred to me that I never actually wrote a post about it.  Its only arguably Anguilla’s best.  While Hibernia may be the best overall experience, Ember the most well rounded destination, Jacala has the best food.  I can see many island regulars nodding in approval while reading this, while some shaking profusely.  Dont worry latter group, I got you covered too, albeit with a thin layer of sugar.

Owners Jacques and Alain go way back.  Before opening Jacala 10 years ago, they worked at a famed restaurant at the nearby Malliouhana resort helmed by a Michelin crowned chef for 20 years.  For the past 10 years they created quite the following that can be felt pretty much on every visit (air kisses galore).  The name is a combination of their first names, though if you ask me it sounds like the act of a cat going haywire.  As in “Remember when Mittens went all Jacala on us for no reason?”

Jacala - tuna tartareOn paper, these are my favorite kind of owners.  The fully present ones.  They oversee every aspect of the operation the entire time they are there.  Shmoozing with a customer for 30 minutes is not fully present.  While Alain is busy in the kitchen, Jacques is running the front, taking every order, and even has time to prepare Martha Stewart’s favorite steak tartare, table side.  He will also tell you if you order items that dont exactly mesh.  Its a level of service you just dont see very often.

Some island regulars however, will argue that the title of the post should come at the very least with an asterisk.  Lets just say Jacques can be a bit gruff sometimes, and may not always handle stress well.  Its not quite Soup Nazi territory but its important to come a little prepared as cultural and language differences can lead to uncomfortable situations.  You may need to assess and possibly adjust.  Perhaps refrain from asking too many questions, request alterations, and interrupt when he tells you the specials.  If your idea of service is an overly friendly chap who will invite you to his daughter’s Bat Mizvah before your evening is over, you may want to skip this one.  But if you are after some top notch grub, you came to the right price.

Jacala Lobster RisottoSimply put, every single dish we’ve had at Jacala ever was outstanding.  That creates all sorts of challenges when you order, choosing between the proven and the new.  Its hard to pass on the magnificently fresh, and expertly crafted Tuna Tartare for example.  Or the stupendously moist and flavorful chicken breast rolled around lobster, chicken mousse, and served over lobster sauce.  The latter has been pretty much on the menu since day one.

Then you have the specials like the Lobster Risotto, far from your typical risotto.  Chunks of sweet lobster, green onion, and just the right amount of heat.  Previously we enjoyed the Calamari Risotto as well.  Lobster dishes in general shine, including the salad, and especially the Bisque.  I already mentioned the steak tartare that I vowed to get last time, but, see previous paragraph.  It will need to wait another year (at least).  And dont discount desserts here either, like the Papaya Panna Cotta.  Sometimes fruits in Panna Cottas overwhelm but Papaya isnt acidy enough and compliments beautifully.  The wine list obviously french leaning (as is the rest of the island).

Jacala fits my taste like a favorite pair of shoes that you can only wear once or twice a week.  Otherwise you risk losing its efficiency or they become stinky.Jacala - Panna Cotta

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This is Rendezvous Bay

Rendezvous Bay HotelIt’s becoming increasingly difficult to write posts like this considering everything that’s going on in the world today.  Fires in Australia, mayhem in Iran, Hong Kong, impeachment, and this dude is writing about some beach in Anguilla.  But this is a place worth writing about.  And as I get older and wiser its becoming more and more clear that in this fragile world, a beach and even looking at pictures of a beach (which I dont do enough) has crazy healing powers.  Numerous recent studies suggest the same.  There’s a reason why Hawaii is the happiest state in the US year after year, an its not Poke Bowls.

There’s another reason I hesitate to post this one.  I’m not exactly anxious for the world to know about this place.  Its a cliche, I know.  But only once you spend a week here you’ll understand.  In fact I met some nice folks there who asked me in a nice half-kidding kind of way to refrain from writing about it.  With that said, sharing is caring as my mama used to say.  And I do hope, for the same selfish reasons, this place I’m about to mention (the main reason for the post) stays in business long enough.

IMG_2282Rendezvous Bay (special shutout to the person who invented copy and paste) simply put is the perfect beach.  Just like most such beaches, you may not find it at its best behavior when you first see it.  The winds can get too strong, and sometimes it may feel deserted for a reason.  When we first saw it four years ago we werent impressed.  But after spending a week at what looks like its best side, we understood.  It’s one of the most walkable, most swimmable, and most perfect size beaches we’ve seen. But most of all, its almost empty!  From my vantage point, best seat in the theater, one person walking by every 20 minutes.  It’s one of the best sheer beauty to people ratio in the Caribbean.

Just to give you an idea how empty this place is.  One day I was in the water and noticed from a distance a figure, most likely a man with absolutely no one around him for a good mile.  The man pulled down his trunks, bent over and proceeded to either shake the trunks or look for something inside them for a good minute.  It wasn’t clear what exactly he was doing, but there he was doing it.  If he was looking for his keys, there was only one place left to look for them.  His bum can be the symbol of Rendezvous Bay in billboards everywhere with the caption “You can do this here”.

Another big plus is that Rendezvous Bay has arguably the best beach shack in the Caribbean, Sunshine Shack.  Garvey and crew will not rest until you are happy.  Expertly grilled BBQ chicken, ribs, lobster and crawfish when available is pretty much the entire menu, but thats all you need (well, except if you are vegetarian).  Its colorful, inviting, with a bit of a party atmosphere for a change of pace.  Booze, games, and comfortable beach lounges allow you to hang out for as long as you want.  This is the definition of a beach shack if there was ever one.

IMG_2243One of the cool things about this bay is the lack of hotels.  You got CuisinArt in the west as the lone major resort, and a few boutique hotels.  One of which is the reason for the post. Rendezvous Bay Hotel.  Its the oldest hotel in Anguilla, and today for some mysterious reasons, shockingly underrated.  It was 😍😍😍 at first sight for us.  I think I gave the biggest tip ever for just showing me the room.  We loved everything about this place.  From the breakfast burritos, the humongous bed (forget king, more like emperor), the balcony, room size, everything.  I can’t think of another place where I wanted to spend so much time in.  I even loved that we had three keys and for the life of me I have no idea what the other two were for.

But most of all it was the proximity (20 feet) to what seemed like the best and calmest part of Rendezvous Bay.  CuisinArt got the short end of the stick looks like, perhaps because RBH was there first.  We had a safety net, a car, that would take us to any beach we want (and there are 33 of them, many of which stunning).  But every other beach we visited felt like a downgrade.  Its perfectly isolated.  You are not far from some of the best dining in Anguilla, and the public ferry.  Fantastic value (under $300) to boot especially considering what you’ll find 20 feet away.  How often do I write about a hotel.  Not very.

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Anguilla – Top 7 Dishes 2019

IMG_2335

First order of business of this trip was to mimic some of the previous experiences including eating the top dishes.  So I’ll start with that.  This is the list I made for Anguilla-Beaches in 2016.  Sarjais has sadly closed since then.  We didnt make it to Straw Hat this time, and Mango’s snapper wasnt a special.  But as for the rest… Chicken at Jacala, Steamed Red Snapper at Johnno’s, Fish Salad at Tasty’s, and the Smoked Fish Trio at Hibernia, all still outstanding.

Partly due to craving the above, it was a little tougher finding excellence this time around.  It was a slightly shorter trip (6 days), and some clunkers at the beginning of the trip didnt help.  And really, most of the stellar dishes came at three places, Hibernia, Ember, and Jacala.  No surprise the three amigos are on the list again this year…

Wahoo Carpaccio at Mango’s

Leave it to the fish experts at Mango’s to take care of your seafood needs.  Perhaps a handful of pink peppercorns shy from being spectacular, this Wahoo was silky smooth, with just the right amount of ‘salsa’ to elevate.  These guys just know how to get the freshest stuff.  Sunday however, is a conundrum.  Like going to a museum on a rainy day.  Many places are closed which means Mango’s is packed much more than usual, and the fish sizes were noticeably smaller than last time.  Mango's - Wahoo

Seafood Pasta at Falcon Nest

We travel for pasta (Italy), and we travel for seafood (more Italy).  So naturally when I see pasta with seafood on the menu, I start unbuckling that belt. Its not a particularly complex dish.  Just loads of fresh chunky fresh fish and shellfish that was flash fried before mixed with the creamy goodness and plenty of veggies.  The good news, not overly creamy.  You may want to toy with their hot sauces midway if you get bored.

Falcon Nest Seafood PastaSpaghetti alle Vongole at Trattoria Tramonto

See above for the pasta/seafood love affair.  But this was a tip I got from iron chef Marc Forgione who owns three restaurants in NYC.  Its a simple dish, but not so simple to pull off.  I can think of only one Spaghetti with clams in Taormina that topped this.  Its well balanced, garlicky, and plenty of delectable clams hidden under that mountain.  Perfect pairing to a hot summer afternoon facing the empty but mesmerizing Shoal Bay West.

IMG_2317Tuna Tartare at Jacala

I didnt think anything can top that Chicken but turns out chef Alain Laurent (the “ala” in Jacala) got more goodies up his sleeve.  Its quite possibly the best Tuna Tartare I ever had.  It may have been because they just received the fish a day prior (Tuesday).  But this is superb stuff, with every morsel resulting in slightly different flavors and texture, with angels singing in the background.  I eventually asked them to lower the volume as there’s just so much this Jew can take.Jacala Tuna Tartare

Foie Gras at Hibernia

This hidden gem called Hibernia is like a dream.  The setting makes familiar flavors taste unfamiliar.  But the homemade Foie Gras was uncharted territory for this Foie lover (soon to be Foie desperate seeker as it becomes illegal in NY).  It comes with this fresh mango & old rum chutney, a syringe that gently sprays Cognac (I can use that during Hockey season), and home-made toasted walnut bread.  Pure ecstasy with every bite.  Top picture.

Pizza at Artisan

I love pizza!  I eat a lot of pizza.  This is good pizza.  Maybe the best in Caribbean in fact.  But its not for everyone.  This is extreme Neapolitan.  Ultra thin and spongy in the middle, not meant to slice but eaten with a knife and fork.  The more ingredients you add the more the dough simply blends in with the rest of them without showing any texture.  The menu features an impressive arsenal of imported ingredients like ‘nduja, a particular Calabrian spicy sausage spread.  All that’s needed is a certificate Pizzaiolo, and a world class pizza oven.  Check!Artisan Pizza Anguilla

White Chocolate Bread Pudding at Ember

I could have easily chosen the excellent roasted beets, or the Foie Gras here, but lets go with the Bread Pudding to finish on a sweet note.  NYC, the food capital of the world is sort of bread pudding deprived, and we have to get our fix at NOLA sometimes.  This was Bread Pudding perfection with just the right texture/flavor combination.  Not much white chocolate flavor which is a good thing.  Desserts often satisfy, but rarely excite.  This one did.  Problem is I dont have a good picture of it.  Natalie, help 😉IMG_2304

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Ember – Anguilla’s Newest Epicurean Jewel

EmberI’ve come to realize that I’m not much of a beach reader these days.  The heat, the glare, the turquoise water, way too many distractions out there.  But what’s my excuse at home?  Dont know.  But at the beach I prefer long walks, listening to music, and sometimes just aimless staring while getting lost in random thoughts.  Albert Einstein got much of his ideas from aimless wandering.  I’m getting there.  The best I came up with in 6 days is “What the heck is a Post Malone”, and “How do you spell Rendezvous, anyway”.  Silent Zs just seem so annoyingly wasteful, especially these days for some New Yorkers (Verrazzano is missing a Z in all 96 road signs and business names).

Another thought that popped was how such a small island where a human walks every 20 minutes from my vantage point has such great dining depth.  In busier Providenciales (Turks and Caicos) where its now about 20 humans per 20 minutes from my favorite spot, I can think of only two very solid sure bets for dinner.  Ember in Anguilla now makes it three, joining Jacala, and Hibernia.  And there are island old timers I still havent tried, like Blanchards.Ember Beets

One year old Ember is the dream of Marc Alvarez who is sort of an island legend.  If you are not aware of that by the time you get there, his long time friend and manager(?) Michelle will make sure you are.  This kind of confidence can backfire if not followed by matching results.  It did.  And its always good to know who’s at the helm, what’s his/er story, and most importantly is that person in the kitchen every night.  Its a yes for Ember.

The space is comfortable and inviting.  There’s a wood burning oven in the kitchen that looks like a pizzaiolo wet dream.  The menu features a New York-like “Snacks” column that makes ordering more interesting here.  Alvarez did spend some time with Union Square Hospitality in NYC.  A smaller plate section is also a risk as one can spend much less for a full meal.  It took a while to come up with a game plan here.  I had to interview 27% of the very full staff to finalize my order.  Nice French leaning wine menu, just like the rest of the island pretty much.  I lean Italian, but managed.

Started with the Snap Peas, the only miss for me as the spices too mild to make any sort of impact.  But the buttery Pretzel, perhaps his homage to NY, was a nice kickstarter in more ways than one.  It comes with sharp Dijon that brushes against your sinuses, but can do more damage if not too careful.  Like hockey players sniffing ammonia-laced salt in order to wake up.  Perhaps that’s the idea here.

The roasted beets was the first sign of that Alvarez brilliance.  They looked like tomatoes, and tasted like meat.  We are the rare breed of beet haters who like to order beets at places like this.  The Foie gras terrine & duck prosciutto was the second sign and perhaps dish of the trip nominee.  Prosciutto was more like Jamon or lardo that melts in the mouth without the chewiness.  The combination of the Foie with port cherry on toast was like ecstasy in your mouth.

The red snapper fillet dish was a beautiful chaos of various ingredients, and perhaps best piece of fish on this trip.  And the baked gnocchi was rich and spot on.  Large fresh gnocchi as such tend to get all mushy sometimes but these were sturdy and spectacular, with bright, tangy tomato sauce and just enough cheese.  The white chocolate bread pudding to finish was NOLA-ish bread pudding perfection.  Not much white choc flavor which is a good thing.

There are meals (like the night before Ember) where I politely say no to dessert and ready to leave.  And then there are the self inflicted marathon meals where I want to stay longer, visit the kitchen and kiss the chef on the lips!  In this case I settled for a hand shake (I think he’s from the Bronx!).  An epic meal from start to finish.

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Anguilla Random

IMG_2365Its that time of the year.  The time we look back, reflect, and look forward.  The time we argue about the spelling of Hanukkah, and wonder how impeachment works exactly.  The time we look back at the wonderful things we ate during the year all over the world.  The time to call your mom, and watch vacation pictures.  In that order.  Yes, call you mom, and buy her something meaningful this time.  A puppy, a food tour, a trip to Anguilla.  Something that will change her life.

To all the people I met during the last years years, wishing you a Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, and a blessed Festivus

The Ziggys

(PS, click on any of the pictures below to view)

 

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Hibernia {Anguilla} – The Umami of Dining Experiences

Eating With Ziggy

Anguilla Hibernia 3

December 17, 2019 Update

Another epic meal at one of my Caribbean faves.  Its a timeless menu in a timeless setting.  We went for lunch again to mimic the previous experience and ordered pretty much the same dishes.  The one addition was a grilled Mahi seasoned with turmeric and other gingers.  Its worth getting it just for the accompanied butternut squash, bok choy and shiitake gratin.  It’s a sum-of-all-parts kind of dish with the mild seasoning letting the fresh fish do the talking.  The trio of smoked fish and and the outrageous Foie Gras are still the strongest stuff on the menu.  Impeccable attention to detail throughout.  This is a major go for lunch or dinner!

December 27, 2015 post

While we were wrapping up another gruesome beach day on Anguilla (someone has to do it), we noticed something peculiar happening next door.  A private table for two was being set…

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