Posts Tagged With: travel+photography

An Unconventional Day in Pisac

Posted on November 6, 2026 by Ziggy

A lot of visitors ask me if after seeing Machu Picchu, Sexy Woman (Sacsayhuaman), and the Sacred Valley ruins, is a Pisac day trip from Cusco still a must. Ok, no one really asked me that except the voices in my head on pretty much a daily basis leading to the trip. But I’m sure many want to know the answer. The answer is most definitely, without question, yes. But I would do this a little differently than the conventional way of just Pisac and the Market.

First, get a guide for at least the portion leading to lunch time. I recommend David from Cachi Life who will pick you up with a driver (very handy). David is a wealth of information, easy to communicate, knows English very well, and just a pleasant guy to be around. This is a good time to also remind you that I dont do affiliated links here and I’m not an influencer. I’m just an average traveler like you who recommends the things I like.

On the way to Pisac, spend some time at Cochahuasi Animal Sanctuary. This was such a pleasant surprise. Its a non-profit that rescues animals like bears, pumas, Llamas, alpacas, condors and a variety of exotic birds. But the cool part is that they have a funny, enthusiastic guide that will walk with you and introduce you to the animals and their stories. This place is an absolute gem.

Pisac Archeological Park is about 30 minutes from the sanctuary and an hour from Cusco. That part of the country is just like NYC where 15 miles can take more than an hour. I’m told there are modern highways somewhere in Peru but we didnt see any. This is one of the many reasons not to cram too much into the itinerary. All these tours that include the Sacred Valley sites, Ollantaytambo and Pisac in one day seem crazy to me. It took us three days to see those sites.

Once you reach the archeological park, it doesnt take long for the jaw to start dropping. Not only you will be able to explore the entire estate and see the terraces, but there are also plenty of surprises like the cliffside tombs across the gorge. But what sets Pisac apart is the views of the massive terraces and the valley. And the stories David told us like that of the runners that ran for miles every day to send messages to the architect living on a hill, added to the experience.

Some hike all the way down to Pisac town that takes about 2 hours, but for this itinerary we head back to the car and drive down. The town and the famous Pisac market were attractive and colorful, but not as vibrant as I expected. It was fairly sleepy but at that moment after exploring the park I didnt it mind so much. It’s a nice stroll that you can make as long or short as you want.

The conventional itinerary calls for lunch at the market or somewhere else in Pisac, which is fine. But I figured, since I’m already out of Cusco proper in the country side, lets see if there’s something more interesting like a farm in the area that allows visitors. Enter Hacienda Sarapampa.

Simply put, this Hacienda fits this itinerary like the old shoe with a hole in it that you wont throw out until you cant wear it anymore or your wife throws it behind your back. Why do we allow them to do that?!? Anywho, Hacienda Sarapampa feels like an oasis. You can book various activities, all involve food. We did the 4 course meal, and stayed long enough to see a horse and dance show.

You start your experience with a short tour of the property where you discover that they are the supplier of Giant Peruvian Inca Corn to Trader Joe’s. I’ve shopped at TJ’s countless of times and never saw this product until the other day where I was looking for it. I didnt open it yet.

The meal at Hacienda Sarapampa was quite good. Everything from the soup, salad, and beef showcased products they grow and everything was cooked with care and expertise. A true Farm to Table. The only issue was that they were served a bit too quickly and we were done within an hour. That also created some confusion on how long this experience lasts as we needed transportation back to Cusco. The Hacienda is still fairly new to tourism so some kinks still need to be ironed.

You can plan the return to Cusco with the reliable Taxidatum. However you plan the day, Pisac will be one of the more memorable days in Peru. It is one of the reasons a stay of four day minimum is required for Cusco. Not including the Machu Picchu day.

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Virginia is for Foodies

Posted on October 24, 2026 by Ziggy

Although I dont have a Virginia category on this blog, I feel this is one foodie and nature destination New Yorkers should pay more attention. Even though some of the sites are as close to us as the Finger Lakes, Virginia still feels worlds away. But not many realize that its home to our closets National Park, Shenandoah. While not as jaw-dropping as Acadia, and most National Parks out there frankly, it’s something. When it comes to nature near NYC beggars cant be choosers.

I first visited the Northern Virginia area around 5 years ago. I came to visit Shenandoah as part of a long road trip, and in addition I discovered Tuscan like rolling hills and a plethora of wineries. I’ve never seen any on any menu, but Virginia boasts over 300 wineries, many of which offer the kind of settings that make any wine taste better. This time we visited some of them and then some…

Day 1

Nick’s Fish House (Baltimore) – Not in Virginia, but daddy needs to refuel. This is our usual stop on the way down (or up). We usually order the famous Maryland crab, but this time we settled on soups, crab cakes, shrimp and for the first time their crab filled Pretzel. Other than the Pretzel which wasnt an upgrade over a fine regular pretzel like Werkstatt’s in Brooklyn, I would gladly order everything again. Cream of crab for her, Maryland style Gumbo for me. Perfectly blackened Shrimp. And these crab cakes will make every other crab cake in NYC and elsewhere taste pedestrian.

Great Falls Park – First stop in Virginia is Iguazu de Virginia. No multi-mile hike is necessary to see the great falls. Like a stroll (an expensive one ) in a park with your loved one. By the way in case you didnt know “Virginia is For Lovers” is the state slogan, hence the title. These are some of the best falls in relation to ease of seeing them that I’ve seen in the US.

Stone Tower Winery – This is a very popular place and that popularity prevented us from trying the wine. In addition to a wedding, just super busy understandably on a Saturday afternoon. Still, I can see why this is a popular wedding venue

Hillsborough Vineyards & Brewery – Thats more like it. Still busy, but a lot more intimate family owned winery. Striking views throughout, and a cool market on this Saturday (maybe every Saturday?). The wine was as good as I expected from a Virginia winery. One of three whites was decent, and the reds faired better overall.

Loudoun Valley Manor – Our accommodations for this night. Just a very pleasant country side bed and breakfast with the owner Olga dishing out killer omelets. Just 12 minutes from Leesburg.

The Wine Kitchen (Leesburg) – One of the more acclaimed restaurants in Leesburg. Good drinks, service, and good enough food. Mushrooms dominate the menu at this time of the year. From simple sauteed mushrooms to Mafaldine with Mushroom that was too similar profile to the app. The undisputed winner was the Rigatoni Bolognese.

Day 2

Leesburg – Virginia has no shortage of small historic towns with attractive centers, and Leesburg is one of them. Lively enough for an evening or morning stroll. Dont miss Morven Park, around 6 minute drive from the center. Sprowling grounds that include a mansion and a garden that’s totally free to the public. Maybe this “Virginia is for Lovers” thing has something to it.

Spelunker’s (Front Royal) – A nice 90 minute drive to Front Royal, at the foot of Shenandoah. Where are all the people? Oh, at Spelunker’s looks like. Its one of those rare old school burger joints that hasnt lost a beat since it opened in 2002. We’ve been here before and the burger is still the same old juicy beefy goodness. Just a little busy on a Sunday 1pm. A more intimate burger option is Blue’s Dog Bowl truck in Luray, the next destination…

Luray Caverns – In Shenandoah country the stuff you find under ground is just as impressive as above. Holy moly this was something else, and so totally unexpected. A 40 minute walk showcasing all sorts of shapes, colors, and upside down and right side up cathedrals, some of which reflect from bodies of water you didnt know are there. This is an absolute must.

Glen Gordon Manor – A repeat stay at this food focused boutique hotel where the owner is the chef. The first time was one of our favorite stays anywhere in the US, while the second one felt more like coming home. Its a decent size property but only a few rooms in a few scattered buildings. Its so serene that you literally dont hear anything but your stomach growling in anticipation for their three course breakfasts and five course dinners.

The Blue Door – Talking about musts, this is the one dining destination in the area you should absolutely consider. Its a mom and pop that is also an inn. Pop the chef is from north Italy (very north). Mom effortlessly runs the front. Other than the octopus which was deskinned (just a personal pref), I’d gladly order everything again. The Halibut and the superb shrimp pasta especially.

Day 3

Shenandoah National Park – It’s tough to time the fall foliage, as we got much luckier the first time around, but the park is pretty at any time of the year. The Skyline drive is one of the most beautiful drives on the east coast. And while not exactly world class, the hikes are pleasant enough. Dont miss the Dark Hollow Falls. On the way to the park, stop for apples (or other seasonal items) and Jams at any of the numerous stands.

Dinner at Glen Gordon Manor – I already touched on breakfast which will be different every morning, but the 5 course dinner is the real deal. While not exactly a value play, the expertise and passion of the chef/owner is showing throughout. And the wine offerings especially from Willamette Valley is a nice touch.

On the way back to NYC this time we stopped at the charming Hillwood Estate, Museum & Gardens in Washington. And a Philly Cheesesteak at old fave John’s Roast Pork in Philly, but only because Angelo’s Pizzeria was closed.

Categories: Virginia | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

10 Tips for Machu Picchu

Posted on October 5, 2026 by Ziggy

Planning a trip to Machu Picchu? You came to the wrong place. Unless you are holding a baby, you have to drop what you are doing and get those MP tickets, before its too late. But since you already here, might as well check out these tips. I can almost guarantee that some of these will be new, even after extensive research.

Its actually Machu PEEK-choo

Raise your hand if you knew that. I met people that have been to MP and even took a tour and didnt know this. Now here’s why it matters. MAH-choo PEEK-choo means old mountain in Quechuan, the local dialect. While MAH-choo PEE-choo means old…. Penis! One theory is that locals dont correct visitors because they need to entertain themselves somehow. But its probably most likely the name got anglicized over the years

Buy MP tickets well in advance

This may be obvious, but you will be surprised how many travelers are not aware of this, and scramble at the last minute. This is pretty much the first thing you need to do after getting your flights. At least three months in advance. You will need your passport numbers when booking as with many of the purchases including some restaurants according to Peru law. You will also need to choose a “Circuit”. 2-a and 2-b are widely considered the best.

Prepare for a train sticker shock

You may have heard how cheap Perus is. And for the most part its a whole lot cheaper than US and much of Europe. Except when it comes to the train to Machu Picchu which will make Swiss trains cheap. Its essentially a duopoly that operates like a monopoly. Both companies offer pretty much the same prices which can easily top $200 for a round trip per person. We paid around $300 for the two of us

The train upgrades arent worth it

While researching you will see a variety of opinions on this so I will just add another one. Book whatever times convenient to you, and dont stress on the type of train. The difference between the basic and the upgraded trains like 360 and Vistadome dont merit paying the extra $$$ IMO. We did both on the Inca Rail and the difference was too marginal to impact the enjoyment level much. It also doesnt matter which side you sit, as frankly in the grand scheme of things of stunning Peru, the views were not as impressive as advertised.

Stay in Ollantaytambo

Its weird that most MP visitors stay in Cusco, and dont at the very least split their stay. Ollantaytambo is not only a lot closer, but you will need to go through it anyway. Its an actual living Inca city, and you will get a better understanding of MP after seeing the Olla sites first. But the most important reason is that its 2000 feet lower than Cusco, and that should help you with the acclamation.

No absolute need to buy bus tickets well in advance

You will see this advice often, but mainly from people who never arrived without bus tickets. You will most likely save a whopping 5-10 minutes if you buy bus tickets online. This is one area they made very efficient. Just go to the Consettur Bus Ticket office located on Avenida Hermanos Ayar (where the line is), and immediately go to the machine to take a ticket like a confident pro, and wait for your number to be called. One issue with getting all the tickets in advance is that you lose it all if the weather doesnt cooperate or you dont show up for another reason.

Stand on the right line

This is one thing we werent aware of and lost some time as a result. We were hardly the only ones. The long line you will see for the bus may not be for you if you arrive too early or even on time. The front of the line will usually have a sign that will indicate the timed line which we missed. At around 9 am, the long line can still be for the 9 am ticket holders while the 10 am is slowly forming by the wall. PS, good coffee at La Rivera Coffee Center on the same street

No need to prearrange with a guide

On the bus line there will be plenty of guides offering their services. The guides usually live in Cusco, and stay in Aguas Calientes for days if not weeks, leaving their families behind. You already spent $$$$ by this point just to get here, and supporting local guides will be small pocket change in comparison. But there’s no need to look for a guide on the internet as I did. Not only you will pay more but the recommendations are just like restaurants and hotels, subjective and cant really be compared to any other guide. Another tip is to make friends on the train or bus line and share the cost of the guide.

Read the fine print

Machu Picchu officials are a little finicky about what tourists are allowed to bring to the citadel. No umbrellas, high heels, baby strollers, tripods, selfie sticks (YES!!!), large backpacks, and even certain walking sticks like trekking poles with metal tips. All of which can harm the historic stones or other people. We were stopped because someone in our group had a portable chair she used as a walking stick. After a lot of begging the guard finally let us in.

Eat at Indio Feliz

Dont short change Aguas Calientes. Its a actually an attractive town with a population of 5000. It felt a little more local than I imagined after exploring much of the town. And boy did I pick the right place for lunch. Indio Feliz is not exactly a secret once you go up and discover entire group tours hiding in various floors above you. Its one of those places that look like a museum, with better than decent food. Try the Mango Chicken, a house specialty.

Categories: Peru | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

This is Palccoyo!

Posted on September 17, 2026 by Ziggy

I feel that Peru’s jewels should be periodically reevaluated. Machu Picchu is no doubt stunning, but there’s a reason why I’m opting to write my first ever Peru post about Palccoyo, the other Rainbow Mountain. But before I get to that, did you know that we’ve been mispronouncing Machu Picchu all this time. Its actually Machu PICK-choo which means Old Mountain in Quechuan, the native Inca language. Machu PICH-choo means, wait for it… Old Penis. No wonder no one in Peru wants to correct you.

Machu Picchu got the looks and story, while Palccoyo IMO offers more sheer beauty. The result of millions of years of weathering and mineral oxidation, while being buried under a glacier. Hence the real comparison is with the much more famous Rainbow Mountain, Vinicunca. This is one of those situations where I feel most tourists are making a mistake, and there are good reasons why.

Palccoyo was only discovered right before Covid. Meaning, local indigenous communities of course knew about it, but it only opened to the public in 2018. Only three years after Vinicunca, but a three year head start was enough to put Vinicunca on the global map. Especially since Vinicunca got that showstopper shot at the end of the hike, making it very easy to sell.

Palccoyo doesnt have that money shot. But it takes just 5 minute from the parking lot to see the first of three Rainbow Mountains, and the entire 2 hour hike is as spectacular as I’ve ever seen. There are far fewer crowds (less than 10% of Vinicunca), and it’s a whole lot easier to manage. Vinicunca hike takes about two hours one way, and the hike itself doesnt offer the same spectacular views. Every guide we spoke to told us Palccoyo is the better option, while Vinicunca is the famous option. You see that often in travel.

That doesnt mean there’s no pain involved. To get here, just like Vinicunca, takes around 3.5 hours. Its an interesting drive through country side villages, a far cry from what you’ll see in Lima and even Cusco. The last hour is where the jaw starts to drop. A plethora of colorful bubbly mountains with scores of Llamas and Alpacas grazing on grass

Another factor is the elevation. At 4,900 meters (16,076 feet), you’ll be challenged in ways you didnt know exist. I had to take a breather every 5 steps going up. Under normal circumstances you can do this hike in 40 minutes, not two hours. But the views and various elements like the “Rock Forest” help. Walking down was much easier.

On the way back to Cusco, many if not all the tours of all the Rainbow Mountains intersect at the same lunch buffet. Not my favorite part of the day. I preferred breakfast where it was just us. Seeing our guide and driver order a huge bowl of Cordero (lamb) soup at 7 am, while we munched on our three bite ham and cheese sandwich packed by our hotel was interesting to say the least.

Most tours leave around 4-5 am for some reason. The negotiated 6 am start with David Aragon’s Cachi Life was perfect for us. We were back by 4. A day we will never forget.

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36 Hours in Rome

Posted on July 18, 2026 by Ziggy

One of the benefits of having this blog is the occasional need for using it as a reference. What did I eat at xyz in 2016, what was the name of that place in Croatia with the amazing view, when was the last time I was in Rome, etc, etc. But these days, I sometimes forget that I even have a blog to reference. Yesterday at one of my favorite wine shops, I was staring at a certain Hungarian white trying to remember which of the three wines with the same label I enjoyed in a restaurant in East Village. The blog would have given me a big clue.

Alas, it looks like its been 13 years since my last trip to Rome. Much has changed, and much stayed the same. The city is busier than ever. Certain attractions like Trevi Fountain require a small donation to get closer. And pickpocketers are essentially a tourist attraction in itself. Food wise, the usual suspects like Roscioli, Da Cesare al Casaletto, and Armando al Pantheon are still going strong and as popular as ever.

This post could have easily been another “The good, the great, and the eh”, but I think I’ll save that title for Naples. It seems like its becoming a theme lately with dining on vacation. Maybe I’m getting spoiled, but a tough octopus is still a tough octopus. Finding a place in or close to the center where we are not surrounded by tourists turned out to be a difficult task in Rome (proclaims the tourist). But overall we did more than alright.

Our accommodations this time was quite the contrast from our apartment in Trastevere last time. BH hotel in the Castro Pretorio neighborhood was just the right fit. Its a sleepy residential area and an embassy hub, hence sleepy armed guards in many corners. Just a 10 minute walk from Termini, and a 10 minute taxi to the center, although some attractions like Galleria Borghese are within walking distance. Its a small boutique hotel that offers the kind of breakfast found in a lavish 5 star resort, albeit tight quarters.

When in Rome.. we visit as many churches as we can, unlike any place on the planet. Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore our first stop this time. One of the oldest of the four major papal basilicas in Rome, and a prominent pilgrimage site. The opulence and scale of the place is hard to process, even once inside.

On the way to the Colosseum, we reconnected with Michelangelo’s Moses at Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli. Its a masterpiece with an oddity if you look closer. Horns. Either Michelangelo was a jokester or the most famous mistranslation in history. When Moses came down from Sinai, his head was radiating according to the bible. In Hebrew “horn” and “radiance” are similar.

Our first food stop was an old timer in Testaccio, Flavio al Velavevodetto. “The Best” according to our taxi driver. They received so many accolades. there’s no more room on the door. They would need to remove a useless Slow Food snail for the rare “Ziggy approved” sticker. With that said, not our favorite of the bunch. Nothing particularly wrong, but nothing really stood out.

We enjoyed cucina povera classics like the Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail), Amatriciana, and Carbonara (both with rigatoni). Cacio e Pepe was pretty much as expected. The salt level throughout was like “welcome to Roma”. This is not the kind of place where you order a Negroni. Wine all the way, including one of the most complex house whites you’ll ever encounter. A natural, almost orange color, Piana dei Castelli.

While this was not one of our favorite meals in Rome, Testaccio remains one of the best eating neighborhoods. Besides the plethora of old school trattorias, you got the local fave Mercato di Testaccio, and arguably still the best Roman pizzas (super thin crust) in town, Remo. The only reason we didnt pick pizza this time is that we were still full from Naples and Ischia.

The next day we explored the center. All roads actually lead to the Trevi Fountain apparently, as we visited it four times, including three by accident. Whenever we would get there my friend would whisper to me “you gotta be kidding me”. We just knew what’s gonna happen next. 50 more of the same exact pictures the women took three hours ago.

One notable new site for us this time was Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels and Martyrs. Built on top of ruins of a Roman bath complex. The church was designed by Michelangelo (notice a theme here?). At 86 it was his final architectural masterpiece. Integrating the site with the baths ruins was quite the feat. A unique church to say the least, outside of the tourist radar.

26 year old Hosteria Grappolo D’Oro could have been flawless if I just stayed with the classics. Spaghetti with white ragu and asparagus sounded promising but was fairly flat. Everything else worked. The “I can’t believe this is not meatballs” eggplant and ricotta patties was a hit early on. Better than the boiled meatballs.

The Carbonara was superb. What I liked about it, besides the fact that it wasnt Rigatoni as half of the city seemingly does, it wasnt too salty. That way the guanciale is more appreciated. But the best of show was the red wine braised beef cheeks. Supremely tender and packed with that wine goodness. We skipped dessert for gelato elsewhere.

Rome didnt feel as crowded as Florence, and some other places. Until we arrived at the heart of Trastevere at night. It was like joining a rave, a fun one. Most definitely not the Trastevere we remember. The only other place we experienced crowds was at Trevi Fountain as expected. What was not expected was seeing pickpocketers doing their thing.

The heat in early June meant spending more time in the hotel. This was not the infamous heat wave that terrorized Europe last month, but it was uncomfortable enough to change plans and retire early, before coming back for one final meal. A doozy…

To end another two week trip in Italy, I wanted to pick something different. Something a bit more surgical if you will. A place where I can finally order a Negroni after drinking wine for two weeks. Tribuna Campitelli was just what the doc ordered. It was somewhat of a risk as it opened about a year ago by three young guys, not exactly strangers to high end establishments. The chef worked at Metamorfosi, and the trio own another restaurant. Still, a new place without many reviews.

Our server, I’m guessing, a slightly drunk retired orchestra conductor, didnt speak much English but we managed quite fine, especially in the Negroni department. They dont just have Negroni, they have a negroni section. The one with rose water that the maestro recommended totally spoiled me.

The food was exceptional for the most part. Best bread of the trip set the tone. The lone miss, Calamarata “Mancini” with cooked and raw prawns, lardo and basil looked amazing but missed the mark. Small raw shrimp with no texture and sweetness just don’t do it for me. And the dish as a whole was missing that oomph featured in the rest.

Fettuccine with meat ragu was more like it. Risotto Cacio e Pepe with shrimp and asparagus was even better. And the secondis shined even more, starting with a glorious crispy Faraona. A perfectly cooked fillet was sensational, and the fish I’m told hit the mark. For dessert the pistachio with passion fruit was better than the tiramisu which was oddly frozen in the middle. Recommend!

Categories: Italy, Rome | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

The Amalfi Coast Survival Guide

Posted on July 8, 2026 by Ziggy

Resistance is futile. If you look at my countless of posts on Italy, you’ll see that I’ve been resisting the Amalfi Coast for over 15 years. But just like everyone else, I eventually caved in. Family pressure and social media won, and the end result was actually great. I wonder though if this was all a mistake and visiting the area decades ago would have been the right move. More pleasant and a whole lot cheaper. But you can probably say the same about Tuscany, Venice, Sicily, Florence, etc etc.

Overtourism in Amalfi Coast is no joke. And it’s about to get worse with the release of “Positano” starring Matthew McConaughey and Zoe Saldaña sometime next year. It was actually filmed while we were there, mostly in Praiano, causing all kinds of havoc. But even without the movie, post covid revenge travel is alive and well.

With all that said, the Amalfi Coast still has its appeal, and not all hope is lost. Allow uncle Ziggy mitigate some of the pain.

Temper expectations

First things first. There’s a good chance that when you visit Positano, Amalfi, or Capri during the day, you’ll get Disney vibes you havent experiences in Italy before. Instead of the magical place you’ve seen on Tiktok, you are left channeling your inner Japanese train pusher. Unless you are actually staying in one of these towns, you’ll have a hard time avoiding the herds. Even in the shoulder seasons you need to know what to expect.

Stay in Praiano

Not that I stayed anywhere else to compare. Staying in Positano certainly has its advantages, and Sorrento is a good transport hub. But after visiting the most popular villages, we were very happy to return to Praiano every day. Its smack in the middle of the coast highlights, about 10-15 minutes from Positano, and 20 from Amalfi town. A sleepy village of around 2000 residents, with surprisingly excellent dining (more on that later, but if you cant wait, check out my report on Hungry Onion). Shopkeepers and employees here just seem happier and less stressed. And its a good starting point for the Path of the Gods hike.

The biggest issue is getting to other villages, even the close ones. There’s no ferry connection. The buses are not reliable and sometimes dont even stop. And taxis can be expensive. But since its not called Postiano, you’ll save on accommodations and meals. Take a look at Villa Il Frantoio / Lilmar. The views and breakfast alone worth considerations.

Mix in some Experiences

My task was to entertain a larger than usual group this time, and it didnt take long to realize that simply visiting the towns and all the highlights just wont do in this case. Whether its a cooking class in a farm, a boat tour, the spectacular Path of the Gods hike, or even something you’ve never done, like a photo shoot with Andrea and his red Fiats, its these typical Amalfi Coast experiences you’ll remember most.

Make sure to visit Ravello

Much of the focus in Amalfi Coast is on the more famous places like Positano, but I feel Ravello is its brightest, almost hidden Jewel. Not as easy to reach means you wont find similar hoards like Positano and Amalfi, and there’s just enough to see and do to make you wish you stayed longer. The streets, shops, the two grand villas, and the jaw dropping views from its elevated position, add up to a much more pleasant visit. The views will make you change plans and eat at a tourist trap like Hotel Villa Amore on purpose.

Try to pre-plan your transportation

If you think you can simply catch a taxi whenever, wherever you wish, think again. You may get lucky, but luck will come with an added cost. Desperate times will sometimes call for desperate measures. This is something I wasnt ready for, and we did have a local angel that helped us out during a few emergencies. Dont simply rely on the Sita bus as you’ll be hardly the only one. Look into other shuttles like Amico, and try to connect with a few local taxi drivers. Many of them use Whatsup. Our “Angel” was Lorenzo Mansi, a private driver that can also hook you up with local taxis. Highly recommend him.

Pair the coast with Ischia and/or Naples

Just about all the Americans we met in Amalfi Coast never even heard of Ischia. Compared to Amalfi Coast Ischia will feel like the vacation after vacation. The contrast is striking. And there’s a reason why I chose Procida, Ischia’s little sister island, as the first post. Its like Positano without the penis shaped Limoncello bottles and tourists. And Naples really surprised us with its diverse neighborhoods and monuments. Both compliment Amalfi Coast very well.

Slow down and smell the Lemons

Like, literally. Something tells me Amalfi Coast is like NYC in a sense that you will discover it only after your second or so visit. Staying in Praiano, and experiences like the cooking class I mentioned will certainly help with the FOMO of seeing every famous village and island. Or do what our trusted driver, Lorenzo told me. Stay in Minori, his home town, and check out the slower eastern half of the coast. A village like Cetara seems like another great food village.

Categories: Campania, Italy | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

This is Procida

Posted on June 2, 2026 by Ziggy

A hop and a skip from Naples is one of Campania’s remaining hidden jewels. While tourists, mostly Americans, do the trains, planes and automobiles pilgrimage to Positano and Amalfi, Neapolitans hop on a quick ferry to the island of Procida. Most tourists we met on the Amalfi Coast havent even heard of the more famous Ischia, let alone its little neighbor Procida.

Whats so special about Procida? Only everything. Its like Positano without the tourists and Limoncello in penis bottles. Winning the coveted Capital of Culture prize in 2022 put Procida on the map, but mainly for Italians. I’m told, the residents are honored but would prefer the island to remain as is.

I first heard of Procida from Katie Parla years ago. So when we finally decided to visit Campania, Ischia and Procida became a priority, and ultimately replaced Capri. Easy decision after seeing Positano, and being told Capri is even more crowded.

To visit Procida, you can take a ferry from Naples, Ischia, or hire Giovanni from Dolce Vita to take you there which is what we did. Giovanni offers private boat tours from Ischia for around half the price you pay in Amalfi Coast. He will take you to picture perfect Marina di Corricella, Procida’s crown jewel, and let you explore the area on your own.

The cool thing about a boat tour is seeing Corricella from the water. But the classic shot from above is a short walk to Belvedere Corricella where we met an enthusiastic school group visiting from Naples. Their teacher told us to try the local octopus. You dont have to tell me twice.

Giovanni recommended Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella for that Octopus, right by the dock. Octopus with potato salad was just what the doctor ordered. We also indulged in mixed pasta with beans and mussels, gorgeous sweet Prawns, and a sublime carbonara with local tuna instead of guanciale. But one particular appetizer stole the show.

When life gives you lemons in Procida you make a Lemon salad, not lemonade. Procida has its own huge, ugly lemons with the kind of sweetness and low acidity that rivals the one from Amalfi. It can be eaten on its own or as in this case, a salad with balsamic vinegar. Outstanding stuff in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.

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This is Curaçao

Posted on January 26, 2026 by Ziggy

Curaçao will grow on you. After day one, you’ll wonder if you made a mistake. After the third day, a return turns into a possibility. And after the fifth day, you are shopping for snorkeling gear for the return trip. Not sure how universal this is, but to those of us used to TCI, Anguilla, and other places where spectacular beaches reign supreme, a place like Curaçao needs some time. Its the sum of its parts, and those parts need to be discovered.

One of the major parts, missing from most islands, is the capital, Willemstad. An absolute gem. The architecture and colors were expected, while the random street art, like “Three o’clock romance” for example, not so much. Talking about art, one of the highlights was meeting Giovani at 7.1 Experience Art Gallery. Incredible art work all over the island and Aruba. He just finished a dolphin for a new gas station by the landfill.

There are spectacular beaches alright but all quite busy no matter how far they are. By the time you reach the remote Grote Knip, the island crown jewel, almost an hour from Willemstad, you’ll discover the masses that beat you to it. Cas Abao was another worthwhile schlep, until hungry iguanas chased Mrs Ziggy away. I had no idea she can run this fast. Porto Marie is your destination if mud wrestling with wild black pigs is on your bucket list.

Avila Beach Resort also grew on us. Walking distance to many restaurants and a 20 min walk to town. After 10 minutes the street turns more scenic but the sidewalks in a bad shape. It used to be a rough neighborhood I’m told but now it’s a vibrant food hub. Even with any day trippers the hotel felt fairly quiet for the most part. The beach is not world class but the water is that of a world class beach. Like a bathtub. The water is so clear you can see your pedicure 5 feet in. Problem is everyone else can too.

Curaçao doesn’t have the big long beach like TCI, Aruba, and other islands, but it has many things going for it besides the above. Snorkeling and diving is world class. The weather is much more guaranteed at this time of the year. And hotels and food are cheaper when compared to NYC, TCI, Anguilla, and many more. We paid around $120-$150 for two for a complete more.

This is not a food destination by any means, but we managed to find some gems. Curaçao excels at “New American”, playful, Asian inspired fair, but lack in European. Another issue I noticed before I even got there, is the lack of fresh fish that’s not deep fried. But the tremendous value more than made up for it. And we did have some fantastic tuna and shrimp. More on that later.

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French Basque – A Day Inland

Posted on January 5, 2026 by Ziggy

Two months in and it still feels strange classifying some Basque country posts in the France section. Even though it’s undeniably French in language, food and culture, it didnt feel like the same France we know and love. It almost felt like another country, called Basque 😊.

One of the highlights of Pays Basque is the rich collection of picturesque villages spread out in the mountains. It seems like each one of a handful or so villages has found itself on the coveted “Most Beautiful Villages in France” list over the years. You dont have to see all of them, as spending ample time in the ones below will give you a good taste and more. Less is more, remember? Says the person who never learns and tried to see as many villages as possible.

Start with the longest drive of the day, an hour or so from the coast (where you’ll most likely stay. Here’s one suggestion) to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, possibly the the creme de la creme of the Pays villages. Besides having possibly the most dashes in a name (Guinness?), this town has a lot going for it. It is the starting point of one of the most popular Camino routes, and the ending point of other hikes. Its like Disney for hikers if there ever was one.

Like many such gems, the action is centered around one street, between Porte de Saint-Jacques and Porte d’Espagne. If parking by Porte d’Espagne is full, just turn around and park by the lot nearby. Make sure to walk a bit on the main car road, Plāce Chārles de Gāulle for the money shots of the river. You can do the town in less than 90 minutes

Next, a 30 minute or so drive to Espelette, one of the most famous towns in the entire Pays Basque. Even when visiting Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz (The previous dash record holder), you begin to appreciate Espelette’s fame. You’ll see Espelette stores, postcards, and the famous Espelette pepper products all over the region. The town is famous for its pepper, but even if you take the pepper out of the equation, it’s still very pleasant.

Time for lunch. This is the one area were I suggest Michelin. You will be hard pressed to find this kind of value in large cities in France or anywhere. Choko Ona in Espelette is the way to go. Not exactly a national secret however as the place most likely will be full, so highly recommend to reserve.

Take an after lunch stroll in beautiful Espelette and then head to Villa Arnaga, or House-museum of Edmond Rostand as its shown on Google. The villa is the perfect size for an attraction that compliments the rest of the day’s itinerary. Not too crowded, tastefully manicured garden, and uniquely furnished home.

This is not one of those marathon posts. Take it easy here, and learn from my mistake. We wanted to see one more village so we zigzagged through the mountains to Ainhoa. But what we found was a very sleepy village that was quite forgettable after the others. Take your time with the others, have a nice long lunch, see the Villa and call it a day. A memorable one.

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24 Hours in Rioja

Posted on December 7, 2025 by Ziggy

Wine, Pintxos, Sleep, Rinse, Repeat. That’s pretty much the gist of this post and what 24 hours in Rioja may entail. Well, there was also plenty of architecture, old towns, cats, and pretty cool art. But all roads in Rioja lead to more wine, more Pintxos, and since the area hasnt been discovered like the neighbors to the north, all still quite cheap.

Since you’ll be saving on all that glorious food and wine, might as well splurge with Palacio de Samaniego, located in the village of, you guessed it, Samaniego. A restored 17th centaury palace consisting of 9 luxury suites, opened a few years ago by the Rothschild family. The personal project of Edmond de Rothschild Group CEO Ariane de Rothschild, adding her personal touch and private collection, particularly the vases. The entire place including your room looks like a museum.

Breakfast at the Palacio is superb, but dinner was a bit less so. Tierra y Vino is locally well regarded, praised by Macarfi, Michelin and more. Perhaps a series of sensational meals in French Basque and San Sebastian were a tough act to follow. Still, it gets great reviews, and your experience may differ. The beef cheeks and duck were the saving grace.

An alternative in the area would be to eat in the village of Ábalos, or at the popular meat temple SVGAR in Laguardia. All within 10 minute drive. You can also have a lighter meal at the Palacio after a bigger lunch elsewhere. During our meal, waiters were carrying some nifty looking burgers to the patrons sitting in the lobby.

Baigorri

Moving on to the area wineries. You are essentially within a short drive of some of the most impressive wineries in Europe. My advice is to see the grand and famous, but taste the small and personable. You got one of each within walking distance of the Palacio. You can pop inside Bodegas Baigorri for a quick peek or a tour. Followed by a tasting at Bodegas Ostatu across. Try the white Gran Reserva and red Gloria.

For lunch I recommend a pintxos crawl in Logroño, Rioja’s bustling capital. This is the cultural and historic jewel of the region, especially for food lovers. Once you discover the action on Calle Laurel, the epicenter of the old town, you’ll plan to come back on the way to the car for more, only to discover that it just go busier. Meaning, come as early as you can. The bonus is that after San Sebastián or Bilbao, this will be a major relief on the wallet. Here are some of the highlights for your crawl.

Bar Soriano – Start with the legend that makes one item. Grilled Cremini mushroom tower with shrimp on top and bread. Sounds kinda meh but its so satisfyingly garlicky and buttery. Even chief mushroom hater Mrs Z liked it. Places all over town trying to mimic this but you’ll want to try it here.

Bar Lorenzo “Agus Tio” – Next to Soriano you got very tasty Bocadillos, mini pork skewer sandwiches that come nicely sauced. Light and delicious.

Torres Gastrobar – For the finish, Kobe Beef cutlets with fries and green peppers. Supremely flavorful, and popular for a reason. I actually came for the squid sandwiches (solid as well), but got distracted when these cutlets were parading all over.

Its wine o’clock again, and time to finish our wine tour with two obligatory stops. Bodegas Ysios and Marqués de Riscal, in that order if you pressed for time. Ysios is an absolute stunner, maybe the most beautiful winery I’ve seen, and the building is quite accessible for your all important selfie. But you need an appointment to get inside. Marqués de Riscal isnt as accessible without booking a tour

Spend the next morning in another atmospheric old town, LaGuardia. Though dont come too early, as the town just begins to wake up at around 11. One unexpected aspect was the art, including the tree art outside the walls, and Sara Luna’s window art displayed on several shops. Along with Logroño, this is reason enough to come to Rioja.

The order here obviously depends on your schedule. Be mindful of opening/closing times of the wineries. Another winery I planned on visiting but had to cancel days prior is Bodegas Tritium for their 15th-century caves.

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