Italy

The Case for Napoli

Posted on August 17, 2026 by Ziggy

Add me to the Napoli bandwagon. It only took me about 20 years. While post Covid revenge travelers continue to flock to Florence, Rome, Positano, Venice, and Cinque Terre, there’s no shortage of emptier gems all over the country. Many of which like Turin are arguably more pleasant to visit these days. I dare to say Napoli was more enjoyable than Rome last June.

The main reason Napoli is a lot more pleasant this time than 20 years ago is safety. As our guide of the Spanish Quarters, Sarita, told us, back then she wasnt even able to visit some of these parts as a local. The safety stigma is still alive and well even today. And while Napoli isnt as rich as the north, and still possesses some of that gritty energy you’d expect, its generally as safe as any large city in Italy.

The Pizza Capital

Lets get the obvious stuff out of the way. The birthplace of pizza has a unique pizza culture like nowhere else except maybe NYC. The comparison is another discussion. But once you start researching, it doesnt take long to realize that the city is obsessed with pizza like nowhere else in Italy. The bar is so high that its almost impossible to find bad pizza. We got a small taste which I covered here.

The Seafood

It was easy to eat pizza every day, and it was hard not to eat seafood every day. You have to take a break if you want to try the more traditional stuff like Pasta alla Genovese and Pasta con Patate e Provola. But to me the seafood is the second culinary reason to come. We still talk about the tuna carpaccio and grilled red tuna at A Taverna d’ ‘e Zoccole, loosely translates to Tavern of the whores. No, that’s not why I picked our top meal in Naples.

Location Location Location

One thing that struck me this time was the amount of interesting day trips available from Napoli. You may have a heard of places like Sorrento and Pompeii, but how many of you heard of the Royal Palace of Caserta (The Italian Versailles), and Procida which I already covered. These are not just something you can do if you have extra time, but attractions that rank up there with the best of them. The more famous Ischia is another destination most Americans never even heard of.

Monuments Galore

When I first visited Naples, roughly 20 years ago, all I remember is the grand Castles and the traffic. That’s the main reason it took me this long to come back. I dont even recall having pizza, and I’m not a huge fan of castles to begin with. But upon closer look, the city is not shy of world class monuments and landmarks like Galleria Umberto I, the Royal Palace, and the vastness one can see underground. The striking Sansevero Chapel and the veiled Christ alone worth staying for a few days.

The Maradona Culture

You hear about the connection, but you dont fully understand it until you stay for a while. While touring the Catacombs of San Gennaro, I jokingly asked the guide if Maradona was buried there among the many saints, and he replied “No, Maradona is not a saint. He’s a god”. The guy put the city on the global map far beyond Football, and you cant walk two minutes without a reminder of that. The Spanish Quarter is a good place to start to understand the obsession.

Neighborhood Diversity

If we played Family Feud, the answers to “Napoli – what’s the first thing that comes to mind”, would include dangerous, gritty, pizza, crazy drivers, mafia, dirty. Only one answer so far is a compliment. But things are very different these days. You may find that gritty energy I mentioned earlier in the older neighborhoods, but you’ll also find attractive modern neighborhoods like Vomero and parts of Chiaia. Though we never felt unsafe at the older areas like Rione Sanità, and Spanish Quarter. Staying on the east side of Chiaia would be my preferred location.

Hidden Gem in Plain Sight

Been to Lake Como, Venice, Florence, Rome, Positano, Capri lately? Wall to wall visitors, in many cases quite literally. So many simply use Naples as a transport hub, or overlook it entirely. That’s what still makes Naples feel more real and authentic. Its a perception issue that’s tough to shake off. Personally I have plenty of unfinished business, about 23 pizzerias to start.

Categories: Campania, Italy | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Three Gems in Forio (Ischia)

Posted on July 29, 2026 by Ziggy

After Amalfi Coast, Ischia felt like a totally different animal.  The herds are gone, Americans replaced by Dutch, and pizza replaced by rabbit, and more pizza.  It’s the vacation after vacation you didn’t know you needed when you booked the Amalfi Coast. In fact it didn’t take long for it to feel like a Caribbean island, starting with our Dominican shuttle driver.  

Food was a bit more hit and miss than I normally like, which feels like a trend lately. Not the best timing before our first trip to Lima. But we managed, and always end up finding some juicy nuggets. Other than our one meal in Procida, all our eating was in Forio since that’s where we stayed. Didnt feel the need to venture too far from the excellent Tenuta del Poggio Antico.

Montecorvo

While many do the pilgrimage to this old timer, it just happened to be a five minute walk from our our hotel. Walking more than 5 minutes on these roads reduces the chances of making it alive 1% for every minute. Montecorvo opened in 1983. The original owner passed away a few years ago, and son Nicola runs the place now. Easy to reserve the same day via Whatsup, including how many rabbits you will need. One was plenty for the four of us.

Just about every traditional place in Ischia serves the famous Coniglio all’ischitana (Ischia-style rabbit). And many offer it with Bucatini cooked with the braising sauce. The Bucatini here is indeed superb, but the Tagliatelle with wild boar is even better. The rabbit itself is stellar. Juicy, tender and flavor packed. Like Cacciatore on crack.

With that said, its recommended to start your meal at Montecorvo with the house antipasti that took me back to Puglia for the amount and quality. Wash it all down with a local Tommasone, Tenuta Monte Zunta, an exceptional red blend of mostly Piedirosso. Our favorite dinner in Forio.

La Tinaia

From the outside La Tinaia doesnt look like much, and inside it looks more like a tourist trap than a place that would make this list. But locals swear by it. Our trusted driver Antonio almost ran over someone from excitement when I told him about our lunch plans. Owned by the same family since 1988, with the original owner’s wife and four daughters running it today.

You cant go wrong with any of the pizzas. Light, thin, with just the right chew and char. But as good as the pizzas were, you absolutely need to save room for pasta and even dessert. A special of Spaghetti with olives, capers and seafood, sublime. A seemingly simple Lemon Pasta, of the baby angels singing variety. One of the best dishes of the trip. And one of those pistachio cheesecakes you still talk about days later. Exceptional value for Americans. Pound for pound, one of the best meals of the trip.

Pietratorcia 

Forget everything you know about winery dining. In Ischia they skew more rustic, and unpretentious. This is a small family producer, dishing out solid, homey, comfort food paired with their delicious whites. Hard to find Ischian wine in the US, so make it count.

Terrific eggplant parm, bean soup with mussels and clams. A fine Fusilli with zucchini cream and guanciale. More delicious rabbit of course, but in this case you dont need to order a day or hours in advance.

Not in Ischia Bonus: Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella (Procida)

This is on the sister island picture perfect Procida. Recommended by our trusted skipper that took us on a tour around Procida. Another place that looks like a tourist trap, but there were hardly any tourists here. In fact there was a table full of fishermen right next to us. I already wrote about this place here

Categories: Campania, Italy | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

36 Hours in Rome

Posted on July 18, 2026 by Ziggy

One of the benefits of having this blog is the occasional need for using it as a reference. What did I eat at xyz in 2016, what was the name of that place in Croatia with the amazing view, when was the last time I was in Rome, etc, etc. But these days, I sometimes forget that I even have a blog to reference. Yesterday at one of my favorite wine shops, I was staring at a certain Hungarian white trying to remember which of the three wines with the same label I enjoyed in a restaurant in East Village. The blog would have given me a big clue.

Alas, it looks like its been 13 years since my last trip to Rome. Much has changed, and much stayed the same. The city is busier than ever. Certain attractions like Trevi Fountain require a small donation to get closer. And pickpocketers are essentially a tourist attraction in itself. Food wise, the usual suspects like Roscioli, Da Cesare al Casaletto, and Armando al Pantheon are still going strong and as popular as ever.

This post could have easily been another “The good, the great, and the eh”, but I think I’ll save that title for Naples. It seems like its becoming a theme lately with dining on vacation. Maybe I’m getting spoiled, but a tough octopus is still a tough octopus. Finding a place in or close to the center where we are not surrounded by tourists turned out to be a difficult task in Rome (proclaims the tourist). But overall we did more than alright.

Our accommodations this time was quite the contrast from our apartment in Trastevere last time. BH hotel in the Castro Pretorio neighborhood was just the right fit. Its a sleepy residential area and an embassy hub, hence sleepy armed guards in many corners. Just a 10 minute walk from Termini, and a 10 minute taxi to the center, although some attractions like Galleria Borghese are within walking distance. Its a small boutique hotel that offers the kind of breakfast found in a lavish 5 star resort, albeit tight quarters.

When in Rome.. we visit as many churches as we can, unlike any place on the planet. Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore our first stop this time. One of the oldest of the four major papal basilicas in Rome, and a prominent pilgrimage site. The opulence and scale of the place is hard to process, even once inside.

On the way to the Colosseum, we reconnected with Michelangelo’s Moses at Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli. Its a masterpiece with an oddity if you look closer. Horns. Either Michelangelo was a jokester or the most famous mistranslation in history. When Moses came down from Sinai, his head was radiating according to the bible. In Hebrew “horn” and “radiance” are similar.

Our first food stop was an old timer in Testaccio, Flavio al Velavevodetto. “The Best” according to our taxi driver. They received so many accolades. there’s no more room on the door. They would need to remove a useless Slow Food snail for the rare “Ziggy approved” sticker. With that said, not our favorite of the bunch. Nothing particularly wrong, but nothing really stood out.

We enjoyed cucina povera classics like the Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail), Amatriciana, and Carbonara (both with rigatoni). Cacio e Pepe was pretty much as expected. The salt level throughout was like “welcome to Roma”. This is not the kind of place where you order a Negroni. Wine all the way, including one of the most complex house whites you’ll ever encounter. A natural, almost orange color, Piana dei Castelli.

While this was not one of our favorite meals in Rome, Testaccio remains one of the best eating neighborhoods. Besides the plethora of old school trattorias, you got the local fave Mercato di Testaccio, and arguably still the best Roman pizzas (super thin crust) in town, Remo. The only reason we didnt pick pizza this time is that we were still full from Naples and Ischia.

The next day we explored the center. All roads actually lead to the Trevi Fountain apparently, as we visited it four times, including three by accident. Whenever we would get there my friend would whisper to me “you gotta be kidding me”. We just knew what’s gonna happen next. 50 more of the same exact pictures the women took three hours ago.

One notable new site for us this time was Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels and Martyrs. Built on top of ruins of a Roman bath complex. The church was designed by Michelangelo (notice a theme here?). At 86 it was his final architectural masterpiece. Integrating the site with the baths ruins was quite the feat. A unique church to say the least, outside of the tourist radar.

26 year old Hosteria Grappolo D’Oro could have been flawless if I just stayed with the classics. Spaghetti with white ragu and asparagus sounded promising but was fairly flat. Everything else worked. The “I can’t believe this is not meatballs” eggplant and ricotta patties was a hit early on. Better than the boiled meatballs.

The Carbonara was superb. What I liked about it, besides the fact that it wasnt Rigatoni as half of the city seemingly does, it wasnt too salty. That way the guanciale is more appreciated. But the best of show was the red wine braised beef cheeks. Supremely tender and packed with that wine goodness. We skipped dessert for gelato elsewhere.

Rome didnt feel as crowded as Florence, and some other places. Until we arrived at the heart of Trastevere at night. It was like joining a rave, a fun one. Most definitely not the Trastevere we remember. The only other place we experienced crowds was at Trevi Fountain as expected. What was not expected was seeing pickpocketers doing their thing.

The heat in early June meant spending more time in the hotel. This was not the infamous heat wave that terrorized Europe last month, but it was uncomfortable enough to change plans and retire early, before coming back for one final meal. A doozy…

To end another two week trip in Italy, I wanted to pick something different. Something a bit more surgical if you will. A place where I can finally order a Negroni after drinking wine for two weeks. Tribuna Campitelli was just what the doc ordered. It was somewhat of a risk as it opened about a year ago by three young guys, not exactly strangers to high end establishments. The chef worked at Metamorfosi, and the trio own another restaurant. Still, a new place without many reviews.

Our server, I’m guessing, a slightly drunk retired orchestra conductor, didnt speak much English but we managed quite fine, especially in the Negroni department. They dont just have Negroni, they have a negroni section. The one with rose water that the maestro recommended totally spoiled me.

The food was exceptional for the most part. Best bread of the trip set the tone. The lone miss, Calamarata “Mancini” with cooked and raw prawns, lardo and basil looked amazing but missed the mark. Small raw shrimp with no texture and sweetness just don’t do it for me. And the dish as a whole was missing that oomph featured in the rest.

Fettuccine with meat ragu was more like it. Risotto Cacio e Pepe with shrimp and asparagus was even better. And the secondis shined even more, starting with a glorious crispy Faraona. A perfectly cooked fillet was sensational, and the fish I’m told hit the mark. For dessert the pistachio with passion fruit was better than the tiramisu which was oddly frozen in the middle. Recommend!

Categories: Italy, Rome | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

The Amalfi Coast Survival Guide

Posted on July 8, 2026 by Ziggy

Resistance is futile. If you look at my countless of posts on Italy, you’ll see that I’ve been resisting the Amalfi Coast for over 15 years. But just like everyone else, I eventually caved in. Family pressure and social media won, and the end result was actually great. I wonder though if this was all a mistake and visiting the area decades ago would have been the right move. More pleasant and a whole lot cheaper. But you can probably say the same about Tuscany, Venice, Sicily, Florence, etc etc.

Overtourism in Amalfi Coast is no joke. And it’s about to get worse with the release of “Positano” starring Matthew McConaughey and Zoe Saldaña sometime next year. It was actually filmed while we were there, mostly in Praiano, causing all kinds of havoc. But even without the movie, post covid revenge travel is alive and well.

With all that said, the Amalfi Coast still has its appeal, and not all hope is lost. Allow uncle Ziggy mitigate some of the pain.

Temper expectations

First things first. There’s a good chance that when you visit Positano, Amalfi, or Capri during the day, you’ll get Disney vibes you havent experiences in Italy before. Instead of the magical place you’ve seen on Tiktok, you are left channeling your inner Japanese train pusher. Unless you are actually staying in one of these towns, you’ll have a hard time avoiding the herds. Even in the shoulder seasons you need to know what to expect.

Stay in Praiano

Not that I stayed anywhere else to compare. Staying in Positano certainly has its advantages, and Sorrento is a good transport hub. But after visiting the most popular villages, we were very happy to return to Praiano every day. Its smack in the middle of the coast highlights, about 10-15 minutes from Positano, and 20 from Amalfi town. A sleepy village of around 2000 residents, with surprisingly excellent dining (more on that later, but if you cant wait, check out my report on Hungry Onion). Shopkeepers and employees here just seem happier and less stressed. And its a good starting point for the Path of the Gods hike.

The biggest issue is getting to other villages, even the close ones. There’s no ferry connection. The buses are not reliable and sometimes dont even stop. And taxis can be expensive. But since its not called Postiano, you’ll save on accommodations and meals. Take a look at Villa Il Frantoio / Lilmar. The views and breakfast alone worth considerations.

Mix in some Experiences

My task was to entertain a larger than usual group this time, and it didnt take long to realize that simply visiting the towns and all the highlights just wont do in this case. Whether its a cooking class in a farm, a boat tour, the spectacular Path of the Gods hike, or even something you’ve never done, like a photo shoot with Andrea and his red Fiats, its these typical Amalfi Coast experiences you’ll remember most.

Make sure to visit Ravello

Much of the focus in Amalfi Coast is on the more famous places like Positano, but I feel Ravello is its brightest, almost hidden Jewel. Not as easy to reach means you wont find similar hoards like Positano and Amalfi, and there’s just enough to see and do to make you wish you stayed longer. The streets, shops, the two grand villas, and the jaw dropping views from its elevated position, add up to a much more pleasant visit. The views will make you change plans and eat at a tourist trap like Hotel Villa Amore on purpose.

Try to pre-plan your transportation

If you think you can simply catch a taxi whenever, wherever you wish, think again. You may get lucky, but luck will come with an added cost. Desperate times will sometimes call for desperate measures. This is something I wasnt ready for, and we did have a local angel that helped us out during a few emergencies. Dont simply rely on the Sita bus as you’ll be hardly the only one. Look into other shuttles like Amico, and try to connect with a few local taxi drivers. Many of them use Whatsup. Our “Angel” was Lorenzo Mansi, a private driver that can also hook you up with local taxis. Highly recommend him.

Pair the coast with Ischia and/or Naples

Just about all the Americans we met in Amalfi Coast never even heard of Ischia. Compared to Amalfi Coast Ischia will feel like the vacation after vacation. The contrast is striking. And there’s a reason why I chose Procida, Ischia’s little sister island, as the first post. Its like Positano without the penis shaped Limoncello bottles and tourists. And Naples really surprised us with its diverse neighborhoods and monuments. Both compliment Amalfi Coast very well.

Slow down and smell the Lemons

Like, literally. Something tells me Amalfi Coast is like NYC in a sense that you will discover it only after your second or so visit. Staying in Praiano, and experiences like the cooking class I mentioned will certainly help with the FOMO of seeing every famous village and island. Or do what our trusted driver, Lorenzo told me. Stay in Minori, his home town, and check out the slower eastern half of the coast. A village like Cetara seems like another great food village.

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Napoli – Three Days, Three Pizzas

Posted on June 17, 2026 by Ziggy
50 Kalo

For decades I’ve been defending NYC pizza, and claiming NYC the pizza capital of the world. The argument speaks to our culture, and the diversity beyond NYC style, which is really a bastardized version of the Neapolitan. But mainly its the fact that you can find pretty decent Neapolitan these days in NYC.

What makes a good pizza city to me is the proximity to quality pizza from any corner of the city. In NYC you dont need to travel much no matter where you are. But in Naples, you are not just close to good pizza, you are literally surrounded by greatness that could crack the top 10 in NYC. But in order for me to pass the torch, I need to be adopted by a nice Neapolitan family. Now that I added gardening to the repertoire, I dont see how anyone would pass on this opportunity

Choosing pizza in Naples for first time tourists is like, well, choosing pizza in NYC. Except imagine if all the best pizzas were in one borough. There are roughly 1,000 pizzerias in Naples, and 8,000 when you include suburbs. That doesnt include regular restaurants, even seafood joints that serve pizza. The obsession with dough, availability of quality ingredients, and the local pizza culture, makes it very difficult to find subpar pizza in Naples.

What else did I learn.

Neapolitans generally dont eat their pizza with a fork and knife. I’ve been living a lie.

For “individual pies”, the pies were quite large. Two pies can easily feed three.

Compared to NYC, pizza is dirt cheap here. About a third of the price. So very easy to overorder.

Locals pair their pizzas with coke and beer. Even local legend Maradona enjoyed his pizza with coke. Wait, did I assume coke the beverage? 😉

Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria

So where did we eat. I didnt choose any of the mega touristy legends like Da Michele, Sorbillo, Starita. Although I am intrigued by Da Michele and will probably try it next time. We were 7 people so places that take reservations took precedence, but I didnt budge on quality.

50 Kalo

A highly regarded gem by dough expert Ciro Salvo. Two locations, both near each other and out of the tourist zone, hence the only place where we were surrounded by locals. We chose the newer Piazza della Repubblica location since they take reservations. #12 in the recent best 50 pizza in the world list.

The pizzas were solid all around. Margherita and Diavola were pretty much what you expect from a place like this. Dough was light, airy and delicious, although I preferred a bit more of a bite in some parts. It was almost too soft. The Montanara (fried pizza, top pic) with its intense tomato sauce was a particular group fave which meant we ate Montanara every day in Naples.

Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria 

Also on the Top 50 list and highly regarded by this guy and others, but sort of gets lost in the shuffle in Naples. Even with the prime tourist location its very easy to get a table or even reserve one. Owners also have a Michelin star restaurant, and the pizzeria has probably the best terrace/pizza quality combo in Naples. Second floor terrace overlooking the lovely Piazza San Domenico Maggiore with that pizza, priceless.

While the sauce of the Montanara here wasnt as intense as 50 Kalo’s, I’d still order it again. The EVA with smoked mozzarella was good, though some in the group found the smokiness weird (same weirdos people dont like Mezcal). The star however was the Diavola. This is one of the most respected Diavolas in the city but also one of the most elaborate, with spicy salami, sweet pepper cream, yellow tomato cream, orange zest, and sun dried pepper. I have a love hate relationship with hot honey, but the sweetness here works.

Pizzeria Attilio’s

If I have to pick one of the three, this is it. But I really liked all three for different reasons. Unlike the other two, Atillio felt like a real Pizzeria, not a restaurant. Its also more popular so requires careful planning. Best to come right before they open or risk waiting. Its in the middle of a vibrant street market in the Spanish qtr. Third generation Attilio, same name as his grandfather, very much present inside. He’s been helping out in the restaurant since he was 6 after his dad sadly passed and his mom was running things.

One notable app here was the excellent Crocchettone, a massive potato croquette. With the way Italians name things I’m surprised they didnt name it Pene di Cavallo. Its stuffed with provola, broccoli rabe, and bits of sausage. The pizzas were light and great as expected. Atillio was one of the first to dish out star shaped pizzas with the points filled with ricotta. I particularly liked the salami strips in the Diavola, but every pie was exceptional.

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This is Procida

Posted on June 2, 2026 by Ziggy

A hop and a skip from Naples is one of Campania’s remaining hidden jewels. While tourists, mostly Americans, do the trains, planes and automobiles pilgrimage to Positano and Amalfi, Neapolitans hop on a quick ferry to the island of Procida. Most tourists we met on the Amalfi Coast havent even heard of the more famous Ischia, let alone its little neighbor Procida.

Whats so special about Procida? Only everything. Its like Positano without the tourists and Limoncello in penis bottles. Winning the coveted Capital of Culture prize in 2022 put Procida on the map, but mainly for Italians. I’m told, the residents are honored but would prefer the island to remain as is.

I first heard of Procida from Katie Parla years ago. So when we finally decided to visit Campania, Ischia and Procida became a priority, and ultimately replaced Capri. Easy decision after seeing Positano, and being told Capri is even more crowded.

To visit Procida, you can take a ferry from Naples, Ischia, or hire Giovanni from Dolce Vita to take you there which is what we did. Giovanni offers private boat tours from Ischia for around half the price you pay in Amalfi Coast. He will take you to picture perfect Marina di Corricella, Procida’s crown jewel, and let you explore the area on your own.

The cool thing about a boat tour is seeing Corricella from the water. But the classic shot from above is a short walk to Belvedere Corricella where we met an enthusiastic school group visiting from Naples. Their teacher told us to try the local octopus. You dont have to tell me twice.

Giovanni recommended Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella for that Octopus, right by the dock. Octopus with potato salad was just what the doctor ordered. We also indulged in mixed pasta with beans and mussels, gorgeous sweet Prawns, and a sublime carbonara with local tuna instead of guanciale. But one particular appetizer stole the show.

When life gives you lemons in Procida you make a Lemon salad, not lemonade. Procida has its own huge, ugly lemons with the kind of sweetness and low acidity that rivals the one from Amalfi. It can be eaten on its own or as in this case, a salad with balsamic vinegar. Outstanding stuff in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.

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Osteria Imperfetta {Guarene} – Almost Perfect!

Posted on January 9, 2025 by Ziggy

How do you criticize a place called Osteria Imperfetta? How do you criticize a picture perfect Vitello Tonnato shaped like an apple. You cant, but for different reasons. You cant criticize anything about the restaurant as any imperfection is well advertised. No one forced you to go there. You can simply agree with the premise or argue that the name is misleading.

Osteria Imperfetta is my favorite discovery of the last trip to the Langhe. An extremely talented and capable staff awaits, and all you need to do is arrive in one piece. I’ve driven in Italy many times. In fact I prefer a car in much of Europe and generally choose destinations where cars are handy. But driving from La Morra to Guarene at night is quite the hair-raising experience even though its only 25 minutes. A local who moved in recently from Naples admitted that its an adjustment. I can still hear that truck.

The imperfect Osteria opened during the pandemic by two brothers. One runs the front while the other the kitchen, with extensive high end experience including the coveted Piazza Duomo. A young, energetic staff that makes you feel welcomed (not a guarantee for tourists usually). If they are not happy to work there, they do a splendid job fooling the patrons. The atmosphere in the cave-like room was very pleasant, with a surprisingly high number of families. You know you are an American tourist in Europe when you dine earlier than families with little children.

The trio of antipasti alone is worth the price of admission. Vitello Tonnato of course, peppers stuffed with tuna, capers and anchovies that may have stole the show within the show, and yet another sublime Fassona tartare. I may not be able to enjoy French style or any kind of Tartare anytime soon. Maybe a Tartar-less January will help, adding to my New Year resolution, dry Mondays.

Yet another outstanding Tajarin with Bra sausage ragu. So light, seemingly simple, yet addictive. The Maialino here is a specialty, and for good reason, albeit could have been a little crispier. The baked lamb however is closer to perfect in flavor and texture. All washed down with a fine Barbera by the glass. We came to Piedmont to enjoy the Nebbiolo, Barolo, Barbaresco but found a newfound appreciation for Barbera.

We rarely order two desserts but couldn’t pass on a couple of them here after much deliberation with the staff, and seeing the items parade all over the room. A trio of hazelnut creations and the lightest, silkiest panna cotta you’ll ever encounter. The latter gets the nod, but I’d try both.

A pretty flawless meal from start to finish, and one of our new favorites. I also developed a weird new fondness toward Guarene, the village, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy according to I Borghi più belli d’Italia. Which means next time I plan to stay a few nights at the stunning Castello di Guarene – Relais & Chateaux to make sure I arrive to Osteria Imperfetta in one piece. Go!

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Turin – 10 Random Tips

Posted on December 30, 2024 by Ziggy

Turin is not the city people usually visit on their first, second, or even third trip to Italy. It took us 9 trips. With the post Covid revenge travel still in full swing, Rome, Florence, Venice, and the rest of them are redefining crowded these days. Even regions like Puglia and Sicily seem to be catching up and joining the mainstream. Turin still feels under the radar, but offers plenty of culture and beauty to entertain tourists for even a week. With the rest of the country having a moment, I wouldnt rule out Turin on your first visit to the Italy. Here are some tips to help you out…

Get a proper introduction from Chiesa di Santa Maria del Monte dei Cappuccini. This is where you get the classic view of the city. Ample parking at the streets at the bottom. An atmospheric spot, well outside the tourist area

Buy as many chocolates as your luggage allows. Turin is the city of chocolates. You’ll see chocolate stores galore all over the city selling artisanal Gianduiotto (a blend of chocolates and hazelnut cream) among other goodies. They are a lot more expensive in the states, in Eataly or Venchi. And if you feel that you didnt get enough and you are flying from Milan, you have Venchi right there in the terminal.

Stay in San Salvario. This is partially a personal choice, as I generally prefer to to stay walking distance to the center, instead of inside it. But San Salvario is an up and coming neighborhood that reminds me of East Village in some ways. Not the most attractive area in the city, but loaded with great restaurants, bars and shops.

Check out the park within the Parco. Turin has stunning squares and parks, with Parco del Valentino being one of the prettiest I’ve seen in Europe. In particular the Giardino Roccioso section and its unusual photogenic statues. Look for the two lamp lovers sitting on a bench. You can combine the park with a tour of Castello del Valentino led by students on Saturdays.

Dont overlook Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile. Turin has some really impressive world class museums like the Egyptian Archaeological museum, and the Cinema Museum. But I feel like people overlook the Auto museum because its a bit out of the way. You’ll encounter eyepopping displays with extremely thoughtful layouts and engineering. I’m a movie buff, not much of a car buff, and I enjoyed the auto museum more than the cinema museum.

Overlook the Royal Palace. Sometimes popular attractions are popular due to their location. The Royal Palace of Turin is easy to do, and a fine activity on a rainy day. But if you’ve seen palaces as such throughout Europe, this one wont stand out IMO.

Take a food tour. We already went over this but its worth pounding the table on it. While the large food tour companies took over the larger cities, you can still find the small guys in the less popular places. Turin is a unique food city and spending quality time with a local chef helps understand the dynamics involved. And its just a fun way to experience the city.

Book L’Acino weeks in advance. Turin has no shortage of fantastic restaurants, and L’Acino stands out among the great ones. Maybe not the typical mom and pop, but once you experience it, you’ll understand why. I’ve already covered it here

Have your Bicerin at the Original. You’ll find this layered drink of espresso, hot chocolate, and milk (or whipped cream) all over Turin and only in Turin. One of many things invented in Turin. Caffé Al Bicerin is the place where it was invented in 1763. Opened by women, and still operated by women all these years. Drink it the proper way, without stirring.

Have Gelato at Casa Marchetti. Full circle, ending the same way we started, with the world famous Hazelnuts. While I would be tempted to try the Hazelnut gelato, you are actually here for the Gianduia. Try both.

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Rampolina {Stresa} – A Room With a View (Supposedly)

Posted on December 20, 2024 by Ziggy

Do you ever find yourself talk about travel experiences to friends and family like they talk about their newborns or grandchildren? You realize at some point that they dont care nearly as much as you, especially after showing them some serious raw meat porn. But you do it anyway, since it feels good to relive said experiences. Such was the case with Casa Rampolina and its restaurant La Rampolina.

Rampolina towers in the mountains above Stresa and majestic Lake Maggiore, with mythical views of the lake and the Borromean islands. By mythical I mean all we witnessed during our entire rainy stay was 50 shades of gray, and at some point the views became a myth. Plenty of pictures on the internet, possibly AI generated, like the one below. I’ll believe it when I see it, Federica!

Casa Rampolina

Federica and husband Davide own this jewel in a hamlet called Campino, an easy 8 minute drive from Stresa. After seeing the third penis shaped Limoncello, I was relived that we didnt stay within Stresa itself. Casa Rampolina provides ample, easy parking for its sizable 5 rooms. Comfy beds, baths, a sauna, and a superb breakfast overlooking the splendid AI generated views. The main feature is the kind of hospitality you’d expect from a family member, not a stranger.

La Rampolina, the restaurant was an unexpected doozy. When I read the reviews, I got the impression of a possible tourist trap. It wasnt very clear whether the draw was the food or the location. The confusion intensified when their parking attendant asked me to park closer to the next car in a lot bigger than the entire hotel. Are they really about to fill the entire lot? Yes they did, and then some.

Turns out La Rampolina is a local legend. Not only it was a very packed multi-room, multi-building house (imagine a large Florida seafood palace), but we were also the only tourists there, confirmed by Davide. In addition, a local celebrity chef just happened to dine there at the same time. By the end of the night the parking attendant was directing traffic like an air traffic controller.

Started with an awesome silky smooth Fassona carpaccio special with Puntarelle, and Bagna Cauda. I noticed on this trip wild mood swings on days we didnt eat Fassona. Coincidence? Egg, Toma cheese, veggies concoction was exactly what you expect. Excellent Tagliatelle with rabbit ragu. A different flavor profile than the ragus we tasted in other parts of the region.

Mrs Z and I usually share everything including mains but this time we had our clear favorites. A fine slow baked beef for Mrs Z. Fassona Hanger (Tagliata di Diaframma) for me. This was the best cooked Fassona of the trip. The waiter suggested to have it rare, and I could see why. Its much thicker than the usual Hanger, features a good amount of char, and supremely flavorful. The more you cook it, the more flavor you lose.

We even ended a mini streak of subpar Tiramisu here. My only regret was not taking advantage of the tremendous wine list and getting wine by the glass. But overall, I couldn’t have asked for a better finish to another wonderful eating trip in Italy. Worth travelling to Lake Maggiore just to eat and sleep here. Go!

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Il Centro {Priocca} – King of the North

Posted on December 15, 2024 by Ziggy

Ever thought about what are your favorite restaurants in the world? Multiple trips to Piedmont will raise the question. Our favorite experiences are often the most recent, but some stay up there for years if not decades. If I had to make a list of my top 10, most will probably be in Europe, a couple in the Caribbean, and some elsewhere in the US. Weirdly none in my hometown NYC even though the food scene here is insane. The list would also include two places that are 40 km away from each other. A few weeks ago I’ve written about one of them. The other is Il Centro in Priocca (Piedmont)

If I had to shrink the list even more to top 5, 3, or even 1, Il Centro would probably still be on it. We’ve been really fortunate to have some amazing meals all over the world, and Il Centro is responsible for now two of them. I’ve written about the previous meal 10 years ago, so if you could only imagine the anticipation this time. Like a loyal dog waiting for his master to come home.

Il Centro is owned by the Cordero family for roughly 70 years. The busy kitchen is run by the mega talented Elide. Her husband Enrico walks around shaving truffles and schmoozing with the ladies. While the son Giampiero who is a respected sommelier, helps with the wine, the Italian challenged like myself and everything else pretty much. The space is a mature, businessy environment, with a menu that respects tradition, but also full of surprises. Their Michelin star is just one of the growing list of accolades.

Like pretty much any meal in Piedmont it begins with a beautiful bouquet of Grissini. Unlike any other meal however, here it continues with thoughtful, small flavor bombs. A preview of things to come. Millefeuille of Jerusalem artichoke with Bagna Cauda was the star early on. It even beat the outrageous red/white Mille Crepe cake pictured above, which is actually layers of raw Fassona veal thigh, and lardo.

Plain Tagliolini (Tajarin) with truffles and just the right amount of butter was very satisfying. Piedmont is the one region where I would gladly order the International kid’s meal of pasta with butter. Agnolotti del Plin, not surprisingly best of the trip. So delicate, yet flavor packed. The actual surprise was another Agnolotti, with butter, anchovies and bread crumbs. Unlike other Anchovy pastas we had, this was well balanced, well textured, and one of the best dishes of the trip.

Beef cheeks with caramelized figs, just as last time, deep, lasting sweet flavors, with the figs really shining throughout. But the theme of “as good as that was, wait until you taste the next one” continued with the crusted veal fillet with cauliflower. Superb!! Baby angels singing with every morsel. One of the many dishes showcasing the signature attention to detail of Elide.

I asked young Cordero if he can set us up with a local Roero, both white (Arnais) and red (Nebbiolo) and he delivered big time especially with the aromatic, delicious red from Cascina Chicco. Every aspect of this meal was done with tremendous care by a talented team. The staff is both professional and grounded. You dont come across such flawlessness of both food and service very often.

Although your meal at Il Centro can be as short as you want, if you are not a fan of three hour lunches, Il Centro may change that. You will not only leave with a lasting memory, but it will change the way you think about lunch. You’ll essentially start thinking like an Italian. Holidays should never be a sprint to check as many boxes as you can. Less is more. More often than not, memories come from experiences, not attractions. Ok, enough preaching for today :). Just trust me on this one!

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