Posts Tagged With: Travel

Virginia is for Foodies

Posted on October 24, 2026 by Ziggy

Although I dont have a Virginia category on this blog, I feel this is one foodie and nature destination New Yorkers should pay more attention. Even though some of the sites are as close to us as the Finger Lakes, Virginia still feels worlds away. But not many realize that its home to our closets National Park, Shenandoah. While not as jaw-dropping as Acadia, and most National Parks out there frankly, it’s something. When it comes to nature near NYC beggars cant be choosers.

I first visited the Northern Virginia area around 5 years ago. I came to visit Shenandoah as part of a long road trip, and in addition I discovered Tuscan like rolling hills and a plethora of wineries. I’ve never seen any on any menu, but Virginia boasts over 300 wineries, many of which offer the kind of settings that make any wine taste better. This time we visited some of them and then some…

Day 1

Nick’s Fish House (Baltimore) – Not in Virginia, but daddy needs to refuel. This is our usual stop on the way down (or up). We usually order the famous Maryland crab, but this time we settled on soups, crab cakes, shrimp and for the first time their crab filled Pretzel. Other than the Pretzel which wasnt an upgrade over a fine regular pretzel like Werkstatt’s in Brooklyn, I would gladly order everything again. Cream of crab for her, Maryland style Gumbo for me. Perfectly blackened Shrimp. And these crab cakes will make every other crab cake in NYC and elsewhere taste pedestrian.

Great Falls Park – First stop in Virginia is Iguazu de Virginia. No multi-mile hike is necessary to see the great falls. Like a stroll (an expensive one ) in a park with your loved one. By the way in case you didnt know “Virginia is For Lovers” is the state slogan, hence the title. These are some of the best falls in relation to ease of seeing them that I’ve seen in the US.

Stone Tower Winery – This is a very popular place and that popularity prevented us from trying the wine. In addition to a wedding, just super busy understandably on a Saturday afternoon. Still, I can see why this is a popular wedding venue

Hillsborough Vineyards & Brewery – Thats more like it. Still busy, but a lot more intimate family owned winery. Striking views throughout, and a cool market on this Saturday (maybe every Saturday?). The wine was as good as I expected from a Virginia winery. One of three whites was decent, and the reds faired better overall.

Loudoun Valley Manor – Our accommodations for this night. Just a very pleasant country side bed and breakfast with the owner Olga dishing out killer omelets. Just 12 minutes from Leesburg.

The Wine Kitchen (Leesburg) – One of the more acclaimed restaurants in Leesburg. Good drinks, service, and good enough food. Mushrooms dominate the menu at this time of the year. From simple sauteed mushrooms to Mafaldine with Mushroom that was too similar profile to the app. The undisputed winner was the Rigatoni Bolognese.

Day 2

Leesburg – Virginia has no shortage of small historic towns with attractive centers, and Leesburg is one of them. Lively enough for an evening or morning stroll. Dont miss Morven Park, around 6 minute drive from the center. Sprowling grounds that include a mansion and a garden that’s totally free to the public. Maybe this “Virginia is for Lovers” thing has something to it.

Spelunker’s (Front Royal) – A nice 90 minute drive to Front Royal, at the foot of Shenandoah. Where are all the people? Oh, at Spelunker’s looks like. Its one of those rare old school burger joints that hasnt lost a beat since it opened in 2002. We’ve been here before and the burger is still the same old juicy beefy goodness. Just a little busy on a Sunday 1pm. A more intimate burger option is Blue’s Dog Bowl truck in Luray, the next destination…

Luray Caverns – In Shenandoah country the stuff you find under ground is just as impressive as above. Holy moly this was something else, and so totally unexpected. A 40 minute walk showcasing all sorts of shapes, colors, and upside down and right side up cathedrals, some of which reflect from bodies of water you didnt know are there. This is an absolute must.

Glen Gordon Manor – A repeat stay at this food focused boutique hotel where the owner is the chef. The first time was one of our favorite stays anywhere in the US, while the second one felt more like coming home. Its a decent size property but only a few rooms in a few scattered buildings. Its so serene that you literally dont hear anything but your stomach growling in anticipation for their three course breakfasts and five course dinners.

The Blue Door – Talking about musts, this is the one dining destination in the area you should absolutely consider. Its a mom and pop that is also an inn. Pop the chef is from north Italy (very north). Mom effortlessly runs the front. Other than the octopus which was deskinned (just a personal pref), I’d gladly order everything again. The Halibut and the superb shrimp pasta especially.

Day 3

Shenandoah National Park – It’s tough to time the fall foliage, as we got much luckier the first time around, but the park is pretty at any time of the year. The Skyline drive is one of the most beautiful drives on the east coast. And while not exactly world class, the hikes are pleasant enough. Dont miss the Dark Hollow Falls. On the way to the park, stop for apples (or other seasonal items) and Jams at any of the numerous stands.

Dinner at Glen Gordon Manor – I already touched on breakfast which will be different every morning, but the 5 course dinner is the real deal. While not exactly a value play, the expertise and passion of the chef/owner is showing throughout. And the wine offerings especially from Willamette Valley is a nice touch.

On the way back to NYC this time we stopped at the charming Hillwood Estate, Museum & Gardens in Washington. And a Philly Cheesesteak at old fave John’s Roast Pork in Philly, but only because Angelo’s Pizzeria was closed.

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10 Tips for Machu Picchu

Posted on October 5, 2026 by Ziggy

Planning a trip to Machu Picchu? You came to the wrong place. Unless you are holding a baby, you have to drop what you are doing and get those MP tickets, before its too late. But since you already here, might as well check out these tips. I can almost guarantee that some of these will be new, even after extensive research.

Its actually Machu PEEK-choo

Raise your hand if you knew that. I met people that have been to MP and even took a tour and didnt know this. Now here’s why it matters. MAH-choo PEEK-choo means old mountain in Quechuan, the local dialect. While MAH-choo PEE-choo means old…. Penis! One theory is that locals dont correct visitors because they need to entertain themselves somehow. But its probably most likely the name got anglicized over the years

Buy MP tickets well in advance

This may be obvious, but you will be surprised how many travelers are not aware of this, and scramble at the last minute. This is pretty much the first thing you need to do after getting your flights. At least three months in advance. You will need your passport numbers when booking as with many of the purchases including some restaurants according to Peru law. You will also need to choose a “Circuit”. 2-a and 2-b are widely considered the best.

Prepare for a train sticker shock

You may have heard how cheap Perus is. And for the most part its a whole lot cheaper than US and much of Europe. Except when it comes to the train to Machu Picchu which will make Swiss trains cheap. Its essentially a duopoly that operates like a monopoly. Both companies offer pretty much the same prices which can easily top $200 for a round trip per person. We paid around $300 for the two of us

The train upgrades arent worth it

While researching you will see a variety of opinions on this so I will just add another one. Book whatever times convenient to you, and dont stress on the type of train. The difference between the basic and the upgraded trains like 360 and Vistadome dont merit paying the extra $$$ IMO. We did both on the Inca Rail and the difference was too marginal to impact the enjoyment level much. It also doesnt matter which side you sit, as frankly in the grand scheme of things of stunning Peru, the views were not as impressive as advertised.

Stay in Ollantaytambo

Its weird that most MP visitors stay in Cusco, and dont at the very least split their stay. Ollantaytambo is not only a lot closer, but you will need to go through it anyway. Its an actual living Inca city, and you will get a better understanding of MP after seeing the Olla sites first. But the most important reason is that its 2000 feet lower than Cusco, and that should help you with the acclamation.

No absolute need to buy bus tickets well in advance

You will see this advice often, but mainly from people who never arrived without bus tickets. You will most likely save a whopping 5-10 minutes if you buy bus tickets online. This is one area they made very efficient. Just go to the Consettur Bus Ticket office located on Avenida Hermanos Ayar (where the line is), and immediately go to the machine to take a ticket like a confident pro, and wait for your number to be called. One issue with getting all the tickets in advance is that you lose it all if the weather doesnt cooperate or you dont show up for another reason.

Stand on the right line

This is one thing we werent aware of and lost some time as a result. We were hardly the only ones. The long line you will see for the bus may not be for you if you arrive too early or even on time. The front of the line will usually have a sign that will indicate the timed line which we missed. At around 9 am, the long line can still be for the 9 am ticket holders while the 10 am is slowly forming by the wall. PS, good coffee at La Rivera Coffee Center on the same street

No need to prearrange with a guide

On the bus line there will be plenty of guides offering their services. The guides usually live in Cusco, and stay in Aguas Calientes for days if not weeks, leaving their families behind. You already spent $$$$ by this point just to get here, and supporting local guides will be small pocket change in comparison. But there’s no need to look for a guide on the internet as I did. Not only you will pay more but the recommendations are just like restaurants and hotels, subjective and cant really be compared to any other guide. Another tip is to make friends on the train or bus line and share the cost of the guide.

Read the fine print

Machu Picchu officials are a little finicky about what tourists are allowed to bring to the citadel. No umbrellas, high heels, baby strollers, tripods, selfie sticks (YES!!!), large backpacks, and even certain walking sticks like trekking poles with metal tips. All of which can harm the historic stones or other people. We were stopped because someone in our group had a portable chair she used as a walking stick. After a lot of begging the guard finally let us in.

Eat at Indio Feliz

Dont short change Aguas Calientes. Its a actually an attractive town with a population of 5000. It felt a little more local than I imagined after exploring much of the town. And boy did I pick the right place for lunch. Indio Feliz is not exactly a secret once you go up and discover entire group tours hiding in various floors above you. Its one of those places that look like a museum, with better than decent food. Try the Mango Chicken, a house specialty.

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La Mar – The Quintessential Lima Experience

Posted on September 27, 2026 by Ziggy

Some people eat to live, some live to eat. If you are the latter, Lima should be high on your mental list, if not there already. If you are the former, Lima is not for you. Why selective eaters come to Lima is a small mystery. To see the erotic pre Colombian art at the Larco Museum? The homeless cats of Miraflores? There’s just enough to do and see here to merit a stay for more than one or two nights. But this is the one metropolitan city where food is its number one attraction and main reason to come. And that’s what makes this city so unique.

Some of the famed restaurants in Lima like La Mar are experiences in themselves. The La Mar experience starts months prior to the visit when you start reading reviews and studying the menu. You will quickly find out about the lines to get in, and your reaction may be, “f that, I’m not standing on a long line in a city with so many options”. Hit yourself with your bass fishing tournament participation trophy, or whatever closest. You will be in Lima, a city where you’ll pass the same cat colony 5 times. You’ll have plenty of time to stand on line for 30-60 minutes and be on your phone just like at your hotel room.

Your entire itinerary in fact will be centered around food, especially the day you will visit La Mar. Perfect time to skip the eggs and go for that yoghurt at the breakfast buffet, as hard as it is sometimes. And schedule a small museum like Larco in the morning before Ubering to the main event. In our case we arrived 30 minutes before opening (noon), and were the second couple in line. On the door it listed a capacity of 96, so after a quick math I determined we are in!

La Mar is a world renowned Cevicheria by the local legend Gastón Acurio. Like many Cevicherias in Lima, its open for lunch only. Traditionally Cevicherias were only open while the catch is fresh and available. Even with modern refrigeration and advancements today, they continue to keep traditions alive, but I suspect its also a business decision. Acurio and team are trying to mimic this experience all over the world with branches in Miami, SF, Dubai and more. The NYC location didnt last very long.

The Ceviche was indeed top notch. Fresh, delicious fish, well balanced tiger’s milk, different textures of giant corn (fresh and fried), and more spicy dry mix on the side in case we weren’t satisfied with the heat. And when you do go overboard, there’s sweet potatoes to extinguish the heat. In Ollantaytambo we had an incredible fancied Ceviche, but for a traditional this was simply perfect.

Another strong specialty here is the cold octopus smothered with a black olive and caper sauce that penetrated the octopus just enough to elevate. Our waiter recommended the grilled octopus instead which is an entire grilled octopus meant for a group. Tempting but with only two people a bit too much.

Then came the Causa. Causa is made mostly from layered seasoned mashed potatoes, stuffed with a protein and topped with hard boiled eggs and/or other stuff. In this case it was stuffed and topped with tuna tartare, avocado and eggs. Its bigger and heavier than what you see here, and its absolutely sensational. The challenge was to stop eating while getting full, since more is coming.

And as good as everything was, the lone hot dish was perhaps the best one. Arroz Enchichado, a creamy, slightly spicy risotto like, with hefty pieces of Congrio, Cusk eel in English, but not really eel. Texture somewhere between Halibut and Cod. Rich, comforting, complex, and easily best rice dish of the entire Peru trip.

But its really the sum of all parts. The atmosphere, service, local beer, comfort level, and the anticipation. Sit back and take it all in. Then go to the bathroom, and take in the view of 95 happy food pilgrims and locals. Food was just the icing on the cake.

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This is Palccoyo!

Posted on September 17, 2026 by Ziggy

I feel that Peru’s jewels should be periodically reevaluated. Machu Picchu is no doubt stunning, but there’s a reason why I’m opting to write my first ever Peru post about Palccoyo, the other Rainbow Mountain. But before I get to that, did you know that we’ve been mispronouncing Machu Picchu all this time. Its actually Machu PICK-choo which means Old Mountain in Quechuan, the native Inca language. Machu PICH-choo means, wait for it… Old Penis. No wonder no one in Peru wants to correct you.

Machu Picchu got the looks and story, while Palccoyo IMO offers more sheer beauty. The result of millions of years of weathering and mineral oxidation, while being buried under a glacier. Hence the real comparison is with the much more famous Rainbow Mountain, Vinicunca. This is one of those situations where I feel most tourists are making a mistake, and there are good reasons why.

Palccoyo was only discovered right before Covid. Meaning, local indigenous communities of course knew about it, but it only opened to the public in 2018. Only three years after Vinicunca, but a three year head start was enough to put Vinicunca on the global map. Especially since Vinicunca got that showstopper shot at the end of the hike, making it very easy to sell.

Palccoyo doesnt have that money shot. But it takes just 5 minute from the parking lot to see the first of three Rainbow Mountains, and the entire 2 hour hike is as spectacular as I’ve ever seen. There are far fewer crowds (less than 10% of Vinicunca), and it’s a whole lot easier to manage. Vinicunca hike takes about two hours one way, and the hike itself doesnt offer the same spectacular views. Every guide we spoke to told us Palccoyo is the better option, while Vinicunca is the famous option. You see that often in travel.

That doesnt mean there’s no pain involved. To get here, just like Vinicunca, takes around 3.5 hours. Its an interesting drive through country side villages, a far cry from what you’ll see in Lima and even Cusco. The last hour is where the jaw starts to drop. A plethora of colorful bubbly mountains with scores of Llamas and Alpacas grazing on grass

Another factor is the elevation. At 4,900 meters (16,076 feet), you’ll be challenged in ways you didnt know exist. I had to take a breather every 5 steps going up. Under normal circumstances you can do this hike in 40 minutes, not two hours. But the views and various elements like the “Rock Forest” help. Walking down was much easier.

On the way back to Cusco, many if not all the tours of all the Rainbow Mountains intersect at the same lunch buffet. Not my favorite part of the day. I preferred breakfast where it was just us. Seeing our guide and driver order a huge bowl of Cordero (lamb) soup at 7 am, while we munched on our three bite ham and cheese sandwich packed by our hotel was interesting to say the least.

Most tours leave around 4-5 am for some reason. The negotiated 6 am start with David Aragon’s Cachi Life was perfect for us. We were back by 4. A day we will never forget.

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Top 10 Things We Ate in Campania

Posted on August 29, 2026 by Ziggy

Without further ado…

Rabbit at Montecorvo (Forio, Ischia)

Starting with a no brainer. Stories, poems, and children books have been written about the Ischian rabbit. Ok, I’m making up stuff here, but it is indeed famous. At this old-timer in Forio you need to order it when you make reservations. And the result is juicy, tender and flavor packed. Like a fine Cacciatore. And just as other traditional places on the island, there’s the option of Bucatini cooked with the rabbit braising sauce.

Lemon Pasta at La Tinaia (Forio, Ischia)

From the outside, La Tinaia doesnt look like much, but inside… not so much either. But once you start chewing, you begin to understand why your taxi driver got so excited. The pizzas for a place not in Napoli are solid, and so are the pastas. But the Lemon Pasta in particular, literally left us speechless. Its unlike anything I had before. And dont even think about leaving without finishing with the Pistachio Cheesecake.

Pasta with beans and mussels at Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella (Procida)

Another no brainer, but hard to pick a single dish from one of the most memorable meals of the trip. Partly due to the location, picture perfect Maria alla Corricella on the island of Procida. Think Positano without the tourists and penis shaped Limoncello bottles. The dish featured various pasta, was hearty, and quite addictive. But also dont skip the prawns, lemon salad, and Carbonara with local tuna.

Montanara at 50 Kalo (Naples)

Pizza rarely makes an appearance on these lists on this blog, but it shouldnt be a shock to anyone that there will be three mentions this time. Starting with the local fave 50 Kalo, and their glorious Montanara (fried pizza). That intense tomato sauce and bite meant ordering Montanara everywhere we went. But none matched this brilliance.

Diavola at Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria (Naples)

This is one of the most respected Diavolas in the city but also one of the most elaborate with spicy salami, sweet pepper cream, yellow tomato cream, orange zest, and sun dried pepper. I have a love hate relationship with hot honey, but the sweetness here works very well. And sitting on the elevated patio overlooking a quiet piazza is the icing on the cake. Petrucci Pizzeria is a hidden gem in plain sight.

Carnevale pizza at Pizzeria Attilio’s (Naples)

A legendary pizzeria that actually feels like one (to an American at least). Third generation Attilio, same name as his grandfather continuing the traditions including the star shaped pizza his grandfather invented. I first had it at the great 400 Gradi in Lecce. The edges here are filled with ricotta and topped with that famous potent tomato sauce, fior di latte, and sausage. As the name suggests, Carnevale in your mouth

Grilled red tuna at A Taverna d’ ‘e Zoccole (Naples)

Accidentally saved the best meal in Naples for last. And accidentally (I swear) chose a place that loosely translates to Tavern of the whores. Like pizza, Seafood in Naples is no joke, and Zoccole is the place to try it. While every single dish was stellar, it came down to choosing between the Tuna Carpaccio and the sensational grilled tuna. Meaty, fatty, and didn’t need any seasoning. Pure joy with every morsel.

Stuffed Peppers at Trattoria Da Armandino (Praiano) 

Although we ate in other towns, including more acclaimed places in Amalfi Coast, all of our top meals were in Praiano. Starting with this jewel with a picturesque setting by the marina. We just missed Matthew McConaughey who dined here a day before with his family. He was shooting “Positano” with Zoe Saldaña. While every dish was solid, the peppers stuffed with soaked bread that had the consistency of a fine couscous was the most interesting.

Amberjack at KmO (Praiano)

If I had to pick one place that deserves its own post, its Km0 in Praiano. At the helm are two Antonios who could not have been more different, but yet compliment each other perfectly. The young one is the passionate and humble, while his father in law is the cook and quite the character. The thoughtfulness and special attention to detail in every dish is unmatched. Like the perfectly seared Amberjack with Fava Beans and pancetta

Tagliolini with black truffles at Kasai (Praiano)

This is a another no brainer from one of the top dining destinations in Praiano. We witnessed a proposal while dining here, and almost a divorce when she didn’t want to share the Tagliolini with black truffles with me. One of three outstanding pastas. The others were Spaghetti with red squid, and homemade spaghettoni with “scarpariello” sauce, essentially the best red sauce you’ll ever have. But that truffle pasta was absolutely sublime.

Bonus: Lime and pink peppercorn flavored potato chips by PiuGusto.

Our Amalfi boat tour skipper introduced this to us and we couldnt get enough of it the rest of the trip. It was available in just about every grocery store in Amalfi Coast.

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The Case for Napoli

Posted on August 17, 2026 by Ziggy

Add me to the Napoli bandwagon. It only took me about 20 years. While post Covid revenge travelers continue to flock to Florence, Rome, Positano, Venice, and Cinque Terre, there’s no shortage of emptier gems all over the country. Many of which like Turin are arguably more pleasant to visit these days. I dare to say Napoli was more enjoyable than Rome last June.

The main reason Napoli is a lot more pleasant this time than 20 years ago is safety. As our guide of the Spanish Quarters, Sarita, told us, back then she wasnt even able to visit some of these parts as a local. The safety stigma is still alive and well even today. And while Napoli isnt as rich as the north, and still possesses some of that gritty energy you’d expect, its generally as safe as any large city in Italy.

The Pizza Capital

Lets get the obvious stuff out of the way. The birthplace of pizza has a unique pizza culture like nowhere else except maybe NYC. The comparison is another discussion. But once you start researching, it doesnt take long to realize that the city is obsessed with pizza like nowhere else in Italy. The bar is so high that its almost impossible to find bad pizza. We got a small taste which I covered here.

The Seafood

It was easy to eat pizza every day, and it was hard not to eat seafood every day. You have to take a break if you want to try the more traditional stuff like Pasta alla Genovese and Pasta con Patate e Provola. But to me the seafood is the second culinary reason to come. We still talk about the tuna carpaccio and grilled red tuna at A Taverna d’ ‘e Zoccole, loosely translates to Tavern of the whores. No, that’s not why I picked our top meal in Naples.

Location Location Location

One thing that struck me this time was the amount of interesting day trips available from Napoli. You may have a heard of places like Sorrento and Pompeii, but how many of you heard of the Royal Palace of Caserta (The Italian Versailles), and Procida which I already covered. These are not just something you can do if you have extra time, but attractions that rank up there with the best of them. The more famous Ischia is another destination most Americans never even heard of.

Monuments Galore

When I first visited Naples, roughly 20 years ago, all I remember is the grand Castles and the traffic. That’s the main reason it took me this long to come back. I dont even recall having pizza, and I’m not a huge fan of castles to begin with. But upon closer look, the city is not shy of world class monuments and landmarks like Galleria Umberto I, the Royal Palace, and the vastness one can see underground. The striking Sansevero Chapel and the veiled Christ alone worth staying for a few days.

The Maradona Culture

You hear about the connection, but you dont fully understand it until you stay for a while. While touring the Catacombs of San Gennaro, I jokingly asked the guide if Maradona was buried there among the many saints, and he replied “No, Maradona is not a saint. He’s a god”. The guy put the city on the global map far beyond Football, and you cant walk two minutes without a reminder of that. The Spanish Quarter is a good place to start to understand the obsession.

Neighborhood Diversity

If we played Family Feud, the answers to “Napoli – what’s the first thing that comes to mind”, would include dangerous, gritty, pizza, crazy drivers, mafia, dirty. Only one answer so far is a compliment. But things are very different these days. You may find that gritty energy I mentioned earlier in the older neighborhoods, but you’ll also find attractive modern neighborhoods like Vomero and parts of Chiaia. Though we never felt unsafe at the older areas like Rione Sanità, and Spanish Quarter. Staying on the east side of Chiaia would be my preferred location.

Hidden Gem in Plain Sight

Been to Lake Como, Venice, Florence, Rome, Positano, Capri lately? Wall to wall visitors, in many cases quite literally. So many simply use Naples as a transport hub, or overlook it entirely. That’s what still makes Naples feel more real and authentic. Its a perception issue that’s tough to shake off. Personally I have plenty of unfinished business, about 23 pizzerias to start.

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Three Gems in Forio (Ischia)

Posted on July 29, 2026 by Ziggy

After Amalfi Coast, Ischia felt like a totally different animal.  The herds are gone, Americans replaced by Dutch, and pizza replaced by rabbit, and more pizza.  It’s the vacation after vacation you didn’t know you needed when you booked the Amalfi Coast. In fact it didn’t take long for it to feel like a Caribbean island, starting with our Dominican shuttle driver.  

Food was a bit more hit and miss than I normally like, which feels like a trend lately. Not the best timing before our first trip to Lima. But we managed, and always end up finding some juicy nuggets. Other than our one meal in Procida, all our eating was in Forio since that’s where we stayed. Didnt feel the need to venture too far from the excellent Tenuta del Poggio Antico.

Montecorvo

While many do the pilgrimage to this old timer, it just happened to be a five minute walk from our our hotel. Walking more than 5 minutes on these roads reduces the chances of making it alive 1% for every minute. Montecorvo opened in 1983. The original owner passed away a few years ago, and son Nicola runs the place now. Easy to reserve the same day via Whatsup, including how many rabbits you will need. One was plenty for the four of us.

Just about every traditional place in Ischia serves the famous Coniglio all’ischitana (Ischia-style rabbit). And many offer it with Bucatini cooked with the braising sauce. The Bucatini here is indeed superb, but the Tagliatelle with wild boar is even better. The rabbit itself is stellar. Juicy, tender and flavor packed. Like Cacciatore on crack.

With that said, its recommended to start your meal at Montecorvo with the house antipasti that took me back to Puglia for the amount and quality. Wash it all down with a local Tommasone, Tenuta Monte Zunta, an exceptional red blend of mostly Piedirosso. Our favorite dinner in Forio.

La Tinaia

From the outside La Tinaia doesnt look like much, and inside it looks more like a tourist trap than a place that would make this list. But locals swear by it. Our trusted driver Antonio almost ran over someone from excitement when I told him about our lunch plans. Owned by the same family since 1988, with the original owner’s wife and four daughters running it today.

You cant go wrong with any of the pizzas. Light, thin, with just the right chew and char. But as good as the pizzas were, you absolutely need to save room for pasta and even dessert. A special of Spaghetti with olives, capers and seafood, sublime. A seemingly simple Lemon Pasta, of the baby angels singing variety. One of the best dishes of the trip. And one of those pistachio cheesecakes you still talk about days later. Exceptional value for Americans. Pound for pound, one of the best meals of the trip.

Pietratorcia 

Forget everything you know about winery dining. In Ischia they skew more rustic, and unpretentious. This is a small family producer, dishing out solid, homey, comfort food paired with their delicious whites. Hard to find Ischian wine in the US, so make it count.

Terrific eggplant parm, bean soup with mussels and clams. A fine Fusilli with zucchini cream and guanciale. More delicious rabbit of course, but in this case you dont need to order a day or hours in advance.

Not in Ischia Bonus: Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella (Procida)

This is on the sister island picture perfect Procida. Recommended by our trusted skipper that took us on a tour around Procida. Another place that looks like a tourist trap, but there were hardly any tourists here. In fact there was a table full of fishermen right next to us. I already wrote about this place here

Categories: Campania, Italy | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

The Amalfi Coast Survival Guide

Posted on July 8, 2026 by Ziggy

Resistance is futile. If you look at my countless of posts on Italy, you’ll see that I’ve been resisting the Amalfi Coast for over 15 years. But just like everyone else, I eventually caved in. Family pressure and social media won, and the end result was actually great. I wonder though if this was all a mistake and visiting the area decades ago would have been the right move. More pleasant and a whole lot cheaper. But you can probably say the same about Tuscany, Venice, Sicily, Florence, etc etc.

Overtourism in Amalfi Coast is no joke. And it’s about to get worse with the release of “Positano” starring Matthew McConaughey and Zoe Saldaña sometime next year. It was actually filmed while we were there, mostly in Praiano, causing all kinds of havoc. But even without the movie, post covid revenge travel is alive and well.

With all that said, the Amalfi Coast still has its appeal, and not all hope is lost. Allow uncle Ziggy mitigate some of the pain.

Temper expectations

First things first. There’s a good chance that when you visit Positano, Amalfi, or Capri during the day, you’ll get Disney vibes you havent experiences in Italy before. Instead of the magical place you’ve seen on Tiktok, you are left channeling your inner Japanese train pusher. Unless you are actually staying in one of these towns, you’ll have a hard time avoiding the herds. Even in the shoulder seasons you need to know what to expect.

Stay in Praiano

Not that I stayed anywhere else to compare. Staying in Positano certainly has its advantages, and Sorrento is a good transport hub. But after visiting the most popular villages, we were very happy to return to Praiano every day. Its smack in the middle of the coast highlights, about 10-15 minutes from Positano, and 20 from Amalfi town. A sleepy village of around 2000 residents, with surprisingly excellent dining (more on that later, but if you cant wait, check out my report on Hungry Onion). Shopkeepers and employees here just seem happier and less stressed. And its a good starting point for the Path of the Gods hike.

The biggest issue is getting to other villages, even the close ones. There’s no ferry connection. The buses are not reliable and sometimes dont even stop. And taxis can be expensive. But since its not called Postiano, you’ll save on accommodations and meals. Take a look at Villa Il Frantoio / Lilmar. The views and breakfast alone worth considerations.

Mix in some Experiences

My task was to entertain a larger than usual group this time, and it didnt take long to realize that simply visiting the towns and all the highlights just wont do in this case. Whether its a cooking class in a farm, a boat tour, the spectacular Path of the Gods hike, or even something you’ve never done, like a photo shoot with Andrea and his red Fiats, its these typical Amalfi Coast experiences you’ll remember most.

Make sure to visit Ravello

Much of the focus in Amalfi Coast is on the more famous places like Positano, but I feel Ravello is its brightest, almost hidden Jewel. Not as easy to reach means you wont find similar hoards like Positano and Amalfi, and there’s just enough to see and do to make you wish you stayed longer. The streets, shops, the two grand villas, and the jaw dropping views from its elevated position, add up to a much more pleasant visit. The views will make you change plans and eat at a tourist trap like Hotel Villa Amore on purpose.

Try to pre-plan your transportation

If you think you can simply catch a taxi whenever, wherever you wish, think again. You may get lucky, but luck will come with an added cost. Desperate times will sometimes call for desperate measures. This is something I wasnt ready for, and we did have a local angel that helped us out during a few emergencies. Dont simply rely on the Sita bus as you’ll be hardly the only one. Look into other shuttles like Amico, and try to connect with a few local taxi drivers. Many of them use Whatsup. Our “Angel” was Lorenzo Mansi, a private driver that can also hook you up with local taxis. Highly recommend him.

Pair the coast with Ischia and/or Naples

Just about all the Americans we met in Amalfi Coast never even heard of Ischia. Compared to Amalfi Coast Ischia will feel like the vacation after vacation. The contrast is striking. And there’s a reason why I chose Procida, Ischia’s little sister island, as the first post. Its like Positano without the penis shaped Limoncello bottles and tourists. And Naples really surprised us with its diverse neighborhoods and monuments. Both compliment Amalfi Coast very well.

Slow down and smell the Lemons

Like, literally. Something tells me Amalfi Coast is like NYC in a sense that you will discover it only after your second or so visit. Staying in Praiano, and experiences like the cooking class I mentioned will certainly help with the FOMO of seeing every famous village and island. Or do what our trusted driver, Lorenzo told me. Stay in Minori, his home town, and check out the slower eastern half of the coast. A village like Cetara seems like another great food village.

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This is Procida

Posted on June 2, 2026 by Ziggy

A hop and a skip from Naples is one of Campania’s remaining hidden jewels. While tourists, mostly Americans, do the trains, planes and automobiles pilgrimage to Positano and Amalfi, Neapolitans hop on a quick ferry to the island of Procida. Most tourists we met on the Amalfi Coast havent even heard of the more famous Ischia, let alone its little neighbor Procida.

Whats so special about Procida? Only everything. Its like Positano without the tourists and Limoncello in penis bottles. Winning the coveted Capital of Culture prize in 2022 put Procida on the map, but mainly for Italians. I’m told, the residents are honored but would prefer the island to remain as is.

I first heard of Procida from Katie Parla years ago. So when we finally decided to visit Campania, Ischia and Procida became a priority, and ultimately replaced Capri. Easy decision after seeing Positano, and being told Capri is even more crowded.

To visit Procida, you can take a ferry from Naples, Ischia, or hire Giovanni from Dolce Vita to take you there which is what we did. Giovanni offers private boat tours from Ischia for around half the price you pay in Amalfi Coast. He will take you to picture perfect Marina di Corricella, Procida’s crown jewel, and let you explore the area on your own.

The cool thing about a boat tour is seeing Corricella from the water. But the classic shot from above is a short walk to Belvedere Corricella where we met an enthusiastic school group visiting from Naples. Their teacher told us to try the local octopus. You dont have to tell me twice.

Giovanni recommended Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella for that Octopus, right by the dock. Octopus with potato salad was just what the doctor ordered. We also indulged in mixed pasta with beans and mussels, gorgeous sweet Prawns, and a sublime carbonara with local tuna instead of guanciale. But one particular appetizer stole the show.

When life gives you lemons in Procida you make a Lemon salad, not lemonade. Procida has its own huge, ugly lemons with the kind of sweetness and low acidity that rivals the one from Amalfi. It can be eaten on its own or as in this case, a salad with balsamic vinegar. Outstanding stuff in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.

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4 Days in Miami Beach and Beyond

Posted on April 14, 2026 by Ziggy

We have good news and bad news. First the good news. Miami’s food scene has seen a total transformation during the last 10 or so years. Walking around Miami Beach is like strolling around a NYC neighborhood. So many familiar faces like Lucali, La Grande Boucherie, Hasalon and many more. Many of which are much easier to reserve. But its not just the NYC connection, and not only Miami Beach. Wynwood and Downtown areas seem to be taking off as well.

Now, the bad news: Miami’s food scene has seen a total transformation during the last 10 or so years. Just copy and paste the good news. With the influx of business comes oversaturation, closures of iconic places, and skyrocketing prices. There are even new pricing trends we noticed, like charging 20% gratuity automatically while giving the option to add more that will go directly to your server.

Nevertheless, as a visitor, Miami is an embarrassment of riches today. In fact I was so overwhelmed, I went to two dinners on one night to experience two places that are totally different. Something I’ve never done before. Here’s the recap…

Bella Miami Beach

One of two Bella’s on the list. This is first Italian opened by the famed Israeli chef Eyal Shani who owns essentially an empire across the world: Miznon, HaSalon, Port Said, Malka, are just the NYC spots. While the appetizers here like the farro salad and Crudo were fairly standard, and not great value respectfully, the mains rocked. The roasted Branzino could not have been cooked better. And a superb Tagliatelle with Lamb ragu. All in the comfort of a pleasant hotel courtyard, served by a brilliant Argentinian waiter. 236 21st St, Miami Beach

Bella Cuba

The other Bella is another, well, “Bella”. A return visit for us, and how is this place not packed every time is beyond me. We pretty much settled on Snapper fillet and the comforting, flavor rich oxtail on each visit. The location tucked outside Lincoln rd feels like a hidden gem (maybe thats why its not packed), and the servers always seem happy. 1659 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

Stubborn Seed

The only Michelin Star in Miami didnt disappoint but didnt overly impress either. This is a highly acclaimed gem by Top Chef winner Jeremy Ford. They now accept reservations at the bar area where you can choose a la Carte which is decent value for a Michelin. Every dish like the Schiaciatta roll, Poblano Agnolotti, Truffle Chicken, and Bravas featured the kind of brightness, flavor and texture combinations one would except in a Michelin joint. But I suppose not enough wow to try again anytime soon. 101 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

La Leggenda Pizzeria

The Diego Maradona pictures and Napoli style oven means we are already halfway to greatness. The only thing left is a capable Pizzaiolo. Check! Light, airy delicious dough (Like eating a cloud), and a solid Neapolitan overall. While I appreciated the Margherita special, the Diavola flavors truly popped. Nifty Calzones to boot. 224 Española Wy, Miami Beach

Queen 

This may raise some eyebrows. If you know, you know. Queen is not the type of place you’ll find on this blog. Its a glamourous 40 million reinvention of the old Paris theatre, offering Asian, mainly Japanese fair, a DJ and other live music. Its an experience, and opulence on another level. In order to convince myself to come to a place where food is not the main focus, I booked two dinners. Even on my birthday I think about ways to please Mrs Z. Luckily the food (sushi, octopus, tuna carpaccio) was more than satisfying. 550 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

On to Broward (short and sweet)…

At Peru

Looks like a tourist trap off the Hollywood boardwalk but still our favorite Peruvian in the area. 907 N Broadwalk, Hollywood

Motek

Essentially a nation wide Israeli chain these days but food is generally good and creative (especially the breads). The Aventura mall location is perfect for large parties.

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