Posts Tagged With: Travel

Top 10 Things We Ate in Campania

Posted on August 29, 2026 by Ziggy

Without further ado…

Rabbit at Montecorvo (Forio, Ischia)

Starting with a no brainer. Stories, poems, and children books have been written about the Ischian rabbit. Ok, I’m making up stuff here, but it is indeed famous. At this old-timer in Forio you need to order it when you make reservations. And the result is juicy, tender and flavor packed. Like a fine Cacciatore. And just as other traditional places on the island, there’s the option of Bucatini cooked with the rabbit braising sauce.

Lemon Pasta at La Tinaia (Forio, Ischia)

From the outside, La Tinaia doesnt look like much, but inside… not so much either. But once you start chewing, you begin to understand why your taxi driver got so excited. The pizzas for a place not in Napoli are solid, and so are the pastas. But the Lemon Pasta in particular, literally left us speechless. Its unlike anything I had before. And dont even think about leaving without finishing with the Pistachio Cheesecake.

Pasta with beans and mussels at Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella (Procida)

Another no brainer, but hard to pick a single dish from one of the most memorable meals of the trip. Partly due to the location, picture perfect Maria alla Corricella on the island of Procida. Think Positano without the tourists and penis shaped Limoncello bottles. The dish featured various pasta, was hearty, and quite addictive. But also dont skip the prawns, lemon salad, and Carbonara with local tuna.

Montanara at 50 Kalo (Naples)

Pizza rarely makes an appearance on these lists on this blog, but it shouldnt be a shock to anyone that there will be three mentions this time. Starting with the local fave 50 Kalo, and their glorious Montanara (fried pizza). That intense tomato sauce and bite meant ordering Montanara everywhere we went. But none matched this brilliance.

Diavola at Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria (Naples)

This is one of the most respected Diavolas in the city but also one of the most elaborate with spicy salami, sweet pepper cream, yellow tomato cream, orange zest, and sun dried pepper. I have a love hate relationship with hot honey, but the sweetness here works very well. And sitting on the elevated patio overlooking a quiet piazza is the icing on the cake. Petrucci Pizzeria is a hidden gem in plain sight.

Carnevale pizza at Pizzeria Attilio’s (Naples)

A legendary pizzeria that actually feels like one (to an American at least). Third generation Attilio, same name as his grandfather continuing the traditions including the star shaped pizza his grandfather invented. I first had it at the great 400 Gradi in Lecce. The edges here are filled with ricotta and topped with that famous potent tomato sauce, fior di latte, and sausage. As the name suggests, Carnevale in your mouth

Grilled red tuna at A Taverna d’ ‘e Zoccole (Naples)

Accidentally saved the best meal in Naples for last. And accidentally (I swear) chose a place that loosely translates to Tavern of the whores. Like pizza, Seafood in Naples is no joke, and Zoccole is the place to try it. While every single dish was stellar, it came down to choosing between the Tuna Carpaccio and the sensational grilled tuna. Meaty, fatty, and didn’t need any seasoning. Pure joy with every morsel.

Stuffed Peppers at Trattoria Da Armandino (Praiano) 

Although we ate in other towns, including more acclaimed places in Amalfi Coast, all of our top meals were in Praiano. Starting with this jewel with a picturesque setting by the marina. We just missed Matthew McConaughey who dined here a day before with his family. He was shooting “Positano” with Zoe Saldaña. While every dish was solid, the peppers stuffed with soaked bread that had the consistency of a fine couscous was the most interesting.

Amberjack at KmO (Praiano)

If I had to pick one place that deserves its own post, its Km0 in Praiano. At the helm are two Antonios who could not have been more different, but yet compliment each other perfectly. The young one is the passionate and humble, while his father in law is the cook and quite the character. The thoughtfulness and special attention to detail in every dish is unmatched. Like the perfectly seared Amberjack with Fava Beans and pancetta

Tagliolini with black truffles at Kasai (Praiano)

This is a another no brainer from one of the top dining destinations in Praiano. We witnessed a proposal while dining here, and almost a divorce when she didn’t want to share the Tagliolini with black truffles with me. One of three outstanding pastas. The others were Spaghetti with red squid, and homemade spaghettoni with “scarpariello” sauce, essentially the best red sauce you’ll ever have. But that truffle pasta was absolutely sublime.

Bonus: Lime and pink peppercorn flavored potato chips by PiuGusto.

Our Amalfi boat tour skipper introduced this to us and we couldnt get enough of it the rest of the trip. It was available in just about every grocery store in Amalfi Coast.

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The Case for Napoli

Posted on August 17, 2026 by Ziggy

Add me to the Napoli bandwagon. It only took me about 20 years. While post Covid revenge travelers continue to flock to Florence, Rome, Positano, Venice, and Cinque Terre, there’s no shortage of emptier gems all over the country. Many of which like Turin are arguably more pleasant to visit these days. I dare to say Napoli was more enjoyable than Rome last June.

The main reason Napoli is a lot more pleasant this time than 20 years ago is safety. As our guide of the Spanish Quarters, Sarita, told us, back then she wasnt even able to visit some of these parts as a local. The safety stigma is still alive and well even today. And while Napoli isnt as rich as the north, and still possesses some of that gritty energy you’d expect, its generally as safe as any large city in Italy.

The Pizza Capital

Lets get the obvious stuff out of the way. The birthplace of pizza has a unique pizza culture like nowhere else except maybe NYC. The comparison is another discussion. But once you start researching, it doesnt take long to realize that the city is obsessed with pizza like nowhere else in Italy. The bar is so high that its almost impossible to find bad pizza. We got a small taste which I covered here.

The Seafood

It was easy to eat pizza every day, and it was hard not to eat seafood every day. You have to take a break if you want to try the more traditional stuff like Pasta alla Genovese and Pasta con Patate e Provola. But to me the seafood is the second culinary reason to come. We still talk about the tuna carpaccio and grilled red tuna at A Taverna d’ ‘e Zoccole, loosely translates to Tavern of the whores. No, that’s not why I picked our top meal in Naples.

Location Location Location

One thing that struck me this time was the amount of interesting day trips available from Napoli. You may have a heard of places like Sorrento and Pompeii, but how many of you heard of the Royal Palace of Caserta (The Italian Versailles), and Procida which I already covered. These are not just something you can do if you have extra time, but attractions that rank up there with the best of them. The more famous Ischia is another destination most Americans never even heard of.

Monuments Galore

When I first visited Naples, roughly 20 years ago, all I remember is the grand Castles and the traffic. That’s the main reason it took me this long to come back. I dont even recall having pizza, and I’m not a huge fan of castles to begin with. But upon closer look, the city is not shy of world class monuments and landmarks like Galleria Umberto I, the Royal Palace, and the vastness one can see underground. The striking Sansevero Chapel and the veiled Christ alone worth staying for a few days.

The Maradona Culture

You hear about the connection, but you dont fully understand it until you stay for a while. While touring the Catacombs of San Gennaro, I jokingly asked the guide if Maradona was buried there among the many saints, and he replied “No, Maradona is not a saint. He’s a god”. The guy put the city on the global map far beyond Football, and you cant walk two minutes without a reminder of that. The Spanish Quarter is a good place to start to understand the obsession.

Neighborhood Diversity

If we played Family Feud, the answers to “Napoli – what’s the first thing that comes to mind”, would include dangerous, gritty, pizza, crazy drivers, mafia, dirty. Only one answer so far is a compliment. But things are very different these days. You may find that gritty energy I mentioned earlier in the older neighborhoods, but you’ll also find attractive modern neighborhoods like Vomero and parts of Chiaia. Though we never felt unsafe at the older areas like Rione Sanità, and Spanish Quarter. Staying on the east side of Chiaia would be my preferred location.

Hidden Gem in Plain Sight

Been to Lake Como, Venice, Florence, Rome, Positano, Capri lately? Wall to wall visitors, in many cases quite literally. So many simply use Naples as a transport hub, or overlook it entirely. That’s what still makes Naples feel more real and authentic. Its a perception issue that’s tough to shake off. Personally I have plenty of unfinished business, about 23 pizzerias to start.

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Three Gems in Forio (Ischia)

Posted on July 29, 2026 by Ziggy

After Amalfi Coast, Ischia felt like a totally different animal.  The herds are gone, Americans replaced by Dutch, and pizza replaced by rabbit, and more pizza.  It’s the vacation after vacation you didn’t know you needed when you booked the Amalfi Coast. In fact it didn’t take long for it to feel like a Caribbean island, starting with our Dominican shuttle driver.  

Food was a bit more hit and miss than I normally like, which feels like a trend lately. Not the best timing before our first trip to Lima. But we managed, and always end up finding some juicy nuggets. Other than our one meal in Procida, all our eating was in Forio since that’s where we stayed. Didnt feel the need to venture too far from the excellent Tenuta del Poggio Antico.

Montecorvo

While many do the pilgrimage to this old timer, it just happened to be a five minute walk from our our hotel. Walking more than 5 minutes on these roads reduces the chances of making it alive 1% for every minute. Montecorvo opened in 1983. The original owner passed away a few years ago, and son Nicola runs the place now. Easy to reserve the same day via Whatsup, including how many rabbits you will need. One was plenty for the four of us.

Just about every traditional place in Ischia serves the famous Coniglio all’ischitana (Ischia-style rabbit). And many offer it with Bucatini cooked with the braising sauce. The Bucatini here is indeed superb, but the Tagliatelle with wild boar is even better. The rabbit itself is stellar. Juicy, tender and flavor packed. Like Cacciatore on crack.

With that said, its recommended to start your meal at Montecorvo with the house antipasti that took me back to Puglia for the amount and quality. Wash it all down with a local Tommasone, Tenuta Monte Zunta, an exceptional red blend of mostly Piedirosso. Our favorite dinner in Forio.

La Tinaia

From the outside La Tinaia doesnt look like much, and inside it looks more like a tourist trap than a place that would make this list. But locals swear by it. Our trusted driver Antonio almost ran over someone from excitement when I told him about our lunch plans. Owned by the same family since 1988, with the original owner’s wife and four daughters running it today.

You cant go wrong with any of the pizzas. Light, thin, with just the right chew and char. But as good as the pizzas were, you absolutely need to save room for pasta and even dessert. A special of Spaghetti with olives, capers and seafood, sublime. A seemingly simple Lemon Pasta, of the baby angels singing variety. One of the best dishes of the trip. And one of those pistachio cheesecakes you still talk about days later. Exceptional value for Americans. Pound for pound, one of the best meals of the trip.

Pietratorcia 

Forget everything you know about winery dining. In Ischia they skew more rustic, and unpretentious. This is a small family producer, dishing out solid, homey, comfort food paired with their delicious whites. Hard to find Ischian wine in the US, so make it count.

Terrific eggplant parm, bean soup with mussels and clams. A fine Fusilli with zucchini cream and guanciale. More delicious rabbit of course, but in this case you dont need to order a day or hours in advance.

Not in Ischia Bonus: Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella (Procida)

This is on the sister island picture perfect Procida. Recommended by our trusted skipper that took us on a tour around Procida. Another place that looks like a tourist trap, but there were hardly any tourists here. In fact there was a table full of fishermen right next to us. I already wrote about this place here

Categories: Campania, Italy | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

The Amalfi Coast Survival Guide

Posted on July 8, 2026 by Ziggy

Resistance is futile. If you look at my countless of posts on Italy, you’ll see that I’ve been resisting the Amalfi Coast for over 15 years. But just like everyone else, I eventually caved in. Family pressure and social media won, and the end result was actually great. I wonder though if this was all a mistake and visiting the area decades ago would have been the right move. More pleasant and a whole lot cheaper. But you can probably say the same about Tuscany, Venice, Sicily, Florence, etc etc.

Overtourism in Amalfi Coast is no joke. And it’s about to get worse with the release of “Positano” starring Matthew McConaughey and Zoe Saldaña sometime next year. It was actually filmed while we were there, mostly in Praiano, causing all kinds of havoc. But even without the movie, post covid revenge travel is alive and well.

With all that said, the Amalfi Coast still has its appeal, and not all hope is lost. Allow uncle Ziggy mitigate some of the pain.

Temper expectations

First things first. There’s a good chance that when you visit Positano, Amalfi, or Capri during the day, you’ll get Disney vibes you havent experiences in Italy before. Instead of the magical place you’ve seen on Tiktok, you are left channeling your inner Japanese train pusher. Unless you are actually staying in one of these towns, you’ll have a hard time avoiding the herds. Even in the shoulder seasons you need to know what to expect.

Stay in Praiano

Not that I stayed anywhere else to compare. Staying in Positano certainly has its advantages, and Sorrento is a good transport hub. But after visiting the most popular villages, we were very happy to return to Praiano every day. Its smack in the middle of the coast highlights, about 10-15 minutes from Positano, and 20 from Amalfi town. A sleepy village of around 2000 residents, with surprisingly excellent dining (more on that later, but if you cant wait, check out my report on Hungry Onion). Shopkeepers and employees here just seem happier and less stressed. And its a good starting point for the Path of the Gods hike.

The biggest issue is getting to other villages, even the close ones. There’s no ferry connection. The buses are not reliable and sometimes dont even stop. And taxis can be expensive. But since its not called Postiano, you’ll save on accommodations and meals. Take a look at Villa Il Frantoio / Lilmar. The views and breakfast alone worth considerations.

Mix in some Experiences

My task was to entertain a larger than usual group this time, and it didnt take long to realize that simply visiting the towns and all the highlights just wont do in this case. Whether its a cooking class in a farm, a boat tour, the spectacular Path of the Gods hike, or even something you’ve never done, like a photo shoot with Andrea and his red Fiats, its these typical Amalfi Coast experiences you’ll remember most.

Make sure to visit Ravello

Much of the focus in Amalfi Coast is on the more famous places like Positano, but I feel Ravello is its brightest, almost hidden Jewel. Not as easy to reach means you wont find similar hoards like Positano and Amalfi, and there’s just enough to see and do to make you wish you stayed longer. The streets, shops, the two grand villas, and the jaw dropping views from its elevated position, add up to a much more pleasant visit. The views will make you change plans and eat at a tourist trap like Hotel Villa Amore on purpose.

Try to pre-plan your transportation

If you think you can simply catch a taxi whenever, wherever you wish, think again. You may get lucky, but luck will come with an added cost. Desperate times will sometimes call for desperate measures. This is something I wasnt ready for, and we did have a local angel that helped us out during a few emergencies. Dont simply rely on the Sita bus as you’ll be hardly the only one. Look into other shuttles like Amico, and try to connect with a few local taxi drivers. Many of them use Whatsup. Our “Angel” was Lorenzo Mansi, a private driver that can also hook you up with local taxis. Highly recommend him.

Pair the coast with Ischia and/or Naples

Just about all the Americans we met in Amalfi Coast never even heard of Ischia. Compared to Amalfi Coast Ischia will feel like the vacation after vacation. The contrast is striking. And there’s a reason why I chose Procida, Ischia’s little sister island, as the first post. Its like Positano without the penis shaped Limoncello bottles and tourists. And Naples really surprised us with its diverse neighborhoods and monuments. Both compliment Amalfi Coast very well.

Slow down and smell the Lemons

Like, literally. Something tells me Amalfi Coast is like NYC in a sense that you will discover it only after your second or so visit. Staying in Praiano, and experiences like the cooking class I mentioned will certainly help with the FOMO of seeing every famous village and island. Or do what our trusted driver, Lorenzo told me. Stay in Minori, his home town, and check out the slower eastern half of the coast. A village like Cetara seems like another great food village.

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This is Procida

Posted on June 2, 2026 by Ziggy

A hop and a skip from Naples is one of Campania’s remaining hidden jewels. While tourists, mostly Americans, do the trains, planes and automobiles pilgrimage to Positano and Amalfi, Neapolitans hop on a quick ferry to the island of Procida. Most tourists we met on the Amalfi Coast havent even heard of the more famous Ischia, let alone its little neighbor Procida.

Whats so special about Procida? Only everything. Its like Positano without the tourists and Limoncello in penis bottles. Winning the coveted Capital of Culture prize in 2022 put Procida on the map, but mainly for Italians. I’m told, the residents are honored but would prefer the island to remain as is.

I first heard of Procida from Katie Parla years ago. So when we finally decided to visit Campania, Ischia and Procida became a priority, and ultimately replaced Capri. Easy decision after seeing Positano, and being told Capri is even more crowded.

To visit Procida, you can take a ferry from Naples, Ischia, or hire Giovanni from Dolce Vita to take you there which is what we did. Giovanni offers private boat tours from Ischia for around half the price you pay in Amalfi Coast. He will take you to picture perfect Marina di Corricella, Procida’s crown jewel, and let you explore the area on your own.

The cool thing about a boat tour is seeing Corricella from the water. But the classic shot from above is a short walk to Belvedere Corricella where we met an enthusiastic school group visiting from Naples. Their teacher told us to try the local octopus. You dont have to tell me twice.

Giovanni recommended Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella for that Octopus, right by the dock. Octopus with potato salad was just what the doctor ordered. We also indulged in mixed pasta with beans and mussels, gorgeous sweet Prawns, and a sublime carbonara with local tuna instead of guanciale. But one particular appetizer stole the show.

When life gives you lemons in Procida you make a Lemon salad, not lemonade. Procida has its own huge, ugly lemons with the kind of sweetness and low acidity that rivals the one from Amalfi. It can be eaten on its own or as in this case, a salad with balsamic vinegar. Outstanding stuff in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.

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4 Days in Miami Beach and Beyond

Posted on April 14, 2026 by Ziggy

We have good news and bad news. First the good news. Miami’s food scene has seen a total transformation during the last 10 or so years. Walking around Miami Beach is like strolling around a NYC neighborhood. So many familiar faces like Lucali, La Grande Boucherie, Hasalon and many more. Many of which are much easier to reserve. But its not just the NYC connection, and not only Miami Beach. Wynwood and Downtown areas seem to be taking off as well.

Now, the bad news: Miami’s food scene has seen a total transformation during the last 10 or so years. Just copy and paste the good news. With the influx of business comes oversaturation, closures of iconic places, and skyrocketing prices. There are even new pricing trends we noticed, like charging 20% gratuity automatically while giving the option to add more that will go directly to your server.

Nevertheless, as a visitor, Miami is an embarrassment of riches today. In fact I was so overwhelmed, I went to two dinners on one night to experience two places that are totally different. Something I’ve never done before. Here’s the recap…

Bella Miami Beach

One of two Bella’s on the list. This is first Italian opened by the famed Israeli chef Eyal Shani who owns essentially an empire across the world: Miznon, HaSalon, Port Said, Malka, are just the NYC spots. While the appetizers here like the farro salad and Crudo were fairly standard, and not great value respectfully, the mains rocked. The roasted Branzino could not have been cooked better. And a superb Tagliatelle with Lamb ragu. All in the comfort of a pleasant hotel courtyard, served by a brilliant Argentinian waiter. 236 21st St, Miami Beach

Bella Cuba

The other Bella is another, well, “Bella”. A return visit for us, and how is this place not packed every time is beyond me. We pretty much settled on Snapper fillet and the comforting, flavor rich oxtail on each visit. The location tucked outside Lincoln rd feels like a hidden gem (maybe thats why its not packed), and the servers always seem happy. 1659 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

Stubborn Seed

The only Michelin Star in Miami didnt disappoint but didnt overly impress either. This is a highly acclaimed gem by Top Chef winner Jeremy Ford. They now accept reservations at the bar area where you can choose a la Carte which is decent value for a Michelin. Every dish like the Schiaciatta roll, Poblano Agnolotti, Truffle Chicken, and Bravas featured the kind of brightness, flavor and texture combinations one would except in a Michelin joint. But I suppose not enough wow to try again anytime soon. 101 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

La Leggenda Pizzeria

The Diego Maradona pictures and Napoli style oven means we are already halfway to greatness. The only thing left is a capable Pizzaiolo. Check! Light, airy delicious dough (Like eating a cloud), and a solid Neapolitan overall. While I appreciated the Margherita special, the Diavola flavors truly popped. Nifty Calzones to boot. 224 Española Wy, Miami Beach

Queen 

This may raise some eyebrows. If you know, you know. Queen is not the type of place you’ll find on this blog. Its a glamourous 40 million reinvention of the old Paris theatre, offering Asian, mainly Japanese fair, a DJ and other live music. Its an experience, and opulence on another level. In order to convince myself to come to a place where food is not the main focus, I booked two dinners. Even on my birthday I think about ways to please Mrs Z. Luckily the food (sushi, octopus, tuna carpaccio) was more than satisfying. 550 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

On to Broward (short and sweet)…

At Peru

Looks like a tourist trap off the Hollywood boardwalk but still our favorite Peruvian in the area. 907 N Broadwalk, Hollywood

Motek

Essentially a nation wide Israeli chain these days but food is generally good and creative (especially the breads). The Aventura mall location is perfect for large parties.

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Curaçao – The Good, The Great, and The Hmmm

Posted on February 8, 2026 by Ziggy

Even prior to coming I got the sense that Curaçao is not exactly a culinary destination. I got blasted for this and the notion that its difficult to find fresh fish on Reddit, but I stand by the claims, especially since some residents agreed. With that said, there’s plenty of decent food, including some nifty tuna, shrimp, and octopus dishes. But the islanders prefer to fry their fresh fish, mainly Snapper. The one big positive is that compared to NYC, Anguilla, TCI and the rest of the them, there’s decent value here.

I had to pause for a good minute to come up with the last word in the title. Hmmm in this case means the food didnt win me over, but its good enough, and there are other reasons to go. Not only that but these are arguably some of the most famous spots on the island, and a big part of the Curaçao puzzle. So the hmmm column can very well include some memorable meals.

The Good

Kome – As soon as you walk in you get a sense that this is one of the more popular places. It also feels like the kind of place you find in a large US city, including the menu. With that said, on a Wednesday Tapas night, after a strong start, there were enough misses for a downgrade. The hits: Gnocchi, Mushroom Toast, Truffled Risotto and the two sensational desserts (Bolo and profiteroles). The misses: Fish Tacos, Mac and cheese, and a Crunchy Thai Chicken that was anything but crunchy or flavorful. Still, I’d come back to this one.

La Reina beach, food, coffee and lifestyle – I dont get paid by the word, but I’ll give you the full name anyway as it’s listed on Google. An unexpected surprise after another place was closed for lunch. The place is pretty much just as the name suggests; a beach club, and a food, coffee, and lifestyle shop. Inside you got multiple rooms, some decorated like a museum. And the food is mostly solid especially a top dish of the trip nominee Gambas Pil Pil. Finally some heat! Superb goat cheese salad and sliders as well. The lone miss was a sad mushroom pasta which needed exactly what the pil pil dish had.

Rozendaels Original Cuisine – This place has a lot of things going for it, starting with the relaxing, sprawling courtyard. Good food overall led by the Laman, Gambas Pil-Pil, octopus, and Stoba. Although surprisingly one of the best dishes was a simple fried polenta topped with cheese. On the downside, a few oddly bland dishes like the sweet potatoes with roasted chickpeas, a terrible drink menu, and a cranky owner (maybe direct result of the drink menu).

The Great

BKLYN – Pound for pound best meal of the trip. As far as food, service, drinks, atmosphere, just one came close to match this combination. Probably the only place that would do well in NYC, ironically (or not) named and influenced by one of its boroughs. The highlights were the tuna lollipops, ribs, smoky little gem, funchi fries and crème brûlée. The drinks were superb as well especially the My Tai which takes 6 days to make (island time!). Another highlight were Brenda and Dylan who manage the front with ease and by the end of the evening become your island friends.

MosaCaña – Our first meal set the bar a bit too high for most on the list. Friendly service, superb drinks (Republic Banana, Johnny Colada). Much of the menu is Asian inspired, and much of the flavors come from terrific Asian sauces. Fried cauliflower with sweet chili soy glaze was expertly cooked. Fried calamari with chili sauce does the job. Succulent, tender ribs, akin to a nice Thai style glaze. The grilled tuna was probably my favorite. Fresh, brightened with an acidic sauce and pico de gallo. Jerk fries weren’t very jerky tho. Strawberry desserts usually don’t do it for me but this was excellent.

The Hmmm

Grand Café ‘Gouverneur De Rouville’ – Come for the history, atmosphere and view from the balcony. Just don’t expect food that will knock your socks off, but it was more than acceptable. Stuffed mushroom and banana soup were decent starters. Keshi Yena, a local specialty, like a strange Chicken Parm and Lasagna mashup, was pretty much what I expected. Better than the Caribbean chicken which you can easily skip. My favorite was the fish of the day (Corvina) with a complementary creamy mustard sauce, but wife was not a fan.  Another thing they have going is one of those rare breed super waiters and humans named Samir.

Jaanchie’s – The oldest restaurant on the island is one of the more unique. Wait for the owner to sit down with you and explain how the menu works in his own way. While you listen to the sounds of 50 or so small yellow birds hanging around and being fed. Its sort of an eatery and bird sanctuary. The one mystery is opening time. I believe it was 1:15 pm when the opened the door. Its really more about the experience, though many swear by the food. Ours came room temperature, and more like basic comfort food.  Like eating at your in-laws. And you get to try Iguana which is the least scariest scary food you’ll ever have.

La Bohème – Strictly for the Punda Vibes experience every Thursday, if you absolutely must be in the thick of the action.  You can reserve for drinks and a snack like Chicken Curry Arepa. Maybe have a heartier lunch. Just dont expect mains like the Lomo Saltado to rock your world.

Café George – One of the finer establishments. Newer, French inspired. Just tried a couple of dishes here for a quick lunch before flying out and no complaints whatsover here. Terrific Nicoise salad. While fresh fish was lacking, we couldnt get enough of the tuna on the island. And Croque Madame did the job and then some. Good enough to try for dinner next time. And another reason to stay at Avilla. Both the greats and this one within 5 minute walk.

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This is Curaçao

Posted on January 26, 2026 by Ziggy

Curaçao will grow on you. After day one, you’ll wonder if you made a mistake. After the third day, a return turns into a possibility. And after the fifth day, you are shopping for snorkeling gear for the return trip. Not sure how universal this is, but to those of us used to TCI, Anguilla, and other places where spectacular beaches reign supreme, a place like Curaçao needs some time. Its the sum of its parts, and those parts need to be discovered.

One of the major parts, missing from most islands, is the capital, Willemstad. An absolute gem. The architecture and colors were expected, while the random street art, like “Three o’clock romance” for example, not so much. Talking about art, one of the highlights was meeting Giovani at 7.1 Experience Art Gallery. Incredible art work all over the island and Aruba. He just finished a dolphin for a new gas station by the landfill.

There are spectacular beaches alright but all quite busy no matter how far they are. By the time you reach the remote Grote Knip, the island crown jewel, almost an hour from Willemstad, you’ll discover the masses that beat you to it. Cas Abao was another worthwhile schlep, until hungry iguanas chased Mrs Ziggy away. I had no idea she can run this fast. Porto Marie is your destination if mud wrestling with wild black pigs is on your bucket list.

Avila Beach Resort also grew on us. Walking distance to many restaurants and a 20 min walk to town. After 10 minutes the street turns more scenic but the sidewalks in a bad shape. It used to be a rough neighborhood I’m told but now it’s a vibrant food hub. Even with any day trippers the hotel felt fairly quiet for the most part. The beach is not world class but the water is that of a world class beach. Like a bathtub. The water is so clear you can see your pedicure 5 feet in. Problem is everyone else can too.

Curaçao doesn’t have the big long beach like TCI, Aruba, and other islands, but it has many things going for it besides the above. Snorkeling and diving is world class. The weather is much more guaranteed at this time of the year. And hotels and food are cheaper when compared to NYC, TCI, Anguilla, and many more. We paid around $120-$150 for two for a complete more.

This is not a food destination by any means, but we managed to find some gems. Curaçao excels at “New American”, playful, Asian inspired fair, but lack in European. Another issue I noticed before I even got there, is the lack of fresh fish that’s not deep fried. But the tremendous value more than made up for it. And we did have some fantastic tuna and shrimp. More on that later.

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French Basque – A Day Inland

Posted on January 5, 2026 by Ziggy

Two months in and it still feels strange classifying some Basque country posts in the France section. Even though it’s undeniably French in language, food and culture, it didnt feel like the same France we know and love. It almost felt like another country, called Basque 😊.

One of the highlights of Pays Basque is the rich collection of picturesque villages spread out in the mountains. It seems like each one of a handful or so villages has found itself on the coveted “Most Beautiful Villages in France” list over the years. You dont have to see all of them, as spending ample time in the ones below will give you a good taste and more. Less is more, remember? Says the person who never learns and tried to see as many villages as possible.

Start with the longest drive of the day, an hour or so from the coast (where you’ll most likely stay. Here’s one suggestion) to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, possibly the the creme de la creme of the Pays villages. Besides having possibly the most dashes in a name (Guinness?), this town has a lot going for it. It is the starting point of one of the most popular Camino routes, and the ending point of other hikes. Its like Disney for hikers if there ever was one.

Like many such gems, the action is centered around one street, between Porte de Saint-Jacques and Porte d’Espagne. If parking by Porte d’Espagne is full, just turn around and park by the lot nearby. Make sure to walk a bit on the main car road, Plāce Chārles de Gāulle for the money shots of the river. You can do the town in less than 90 minutes

Next, a 30 minute or so drive to Espelette, one of the most famous towns in the entire Pays Basque. Even when visiting Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz (The previous dash record holder), you begin to appreciate Espelette’s fame. You’ll see Espelette stores, postcards, and the famous Espelette pepper products all over the region. The town is famous for its pepper, but even if you take the pepper out of the equation, it’s still very pleasant.

Time for lunch. This is the one area were I suggest Michelin. You will be hard pressed to find this kind of value in large cities in France or anywhere. Choko Ona in Espelette is the way to go. Not exactly a national secret however as the place most likely will be full, so highly recommend to reserve.

Take an after lunch stroll in beautiful Espelette and then head to Villa Arnaga, or House-museum of Edmond Rostand as its shown on Google. The villa is the perfect size for an attraction that compliments the rest of the day’s itinerary. Not too crowded, tastefully manicured garden, and uniquely furnished home.

This is not one of those marathon posts. Take it easy here, and learn from my mistake. We wanted to see one more village so we zigzagged through the mountains to Ainhoa. But what we found was a very sleepy village that was quite forgettable after the others. Take your time with the others, have a nice long lunch, see the Villa and call it a day. A memorable one.

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Martín Berasategui – Culinary Royalty Killing it

Posted on December 16, 2025 by Ziggy

A serial food researcher’s job is to pick the restaurants, and figure out what the restaurant is good at. Pretty simple stuff. But sometimes, you come across places where more research is needed. Like, where to sit, what to drink, whether I can throw napkins on the floor (like in a Basque pintxo bar), and in this case, how to pose with the chef for selfies.

At Martín Berasategui’s flagship near San Sebastian, when Mr Berasategui comes out of the kitchen to chat and take pictures, you dont just smile and say cheese. You raise your fist like you mean it, and scream GARROTE!!! Otherwise, you will confirm kitchen rumors of the clueless American at table 4, and no dessert for you! The meaning of Garrote, you can find out later.

Before Berasategui adapted the term and made it his trademark, Garrote was just a word used by torture chamber enthusiasts. His father tragically died when Martin was 11, leaving the family restaurant to the mom and kids to manage. And not too long after, Berasategui started rallying the family troops with “GARROTE” to express grit and fighting spirit. Like, “lets kill this thing”. The word became his signature, and the new meaning added to the Spanish Royal Academy Historical Dictionary as a result.

You get the sense that you are not in Kansas anymore as you soon as you walk inside this legendary establishment. It’s like checking into a 5 star hotel, or a fancy spa. This is far from your typical Michelin experience, even for three Michelin star standards. For someone like me who is used to Michelin dining but not so much three star, its a YOLO moment.

Included in the €395 price is the kind of flexibility you can only find in a three star. You have your fixed menu, and an a la carte menu, and you essentially can manufacture your own tasting from the two sides. The super friendly waiters, straight out of Pluribus (if you havent watched yet, what are you waiting for) are there to help you with any changes you wish.

I’m not going to describe each of the 15 or so courses, not counting three different bread courses (fenugreek bread!). You are not paying me enough! But just about each course was a religious experience. The combination of flavors, textures, aromas, various temperatures, not to mention the artistic element was unlike anything we ever had. All kinds of food magic like a Gilda in a liquid form on a spoon, the Olive that was anything but, the smoked tuna belly on a celery, mint, and Bergamot “cloud”. Sensational complex flavors to boot.

The Hake and lobster dishes were particular standouts from the larger dishes. By that point each plate had so many ingredients, I was happy there was no test at the end. Trying the main ingredients like the grilled Galician Sirloin by themselves was one thing, but combining everything else together was like Mardi Gras in your mouth. And no matter how much you add to the spoon, nothing overwhelms the main ingredient.

The only complaint I can imagine and even witnessed with this menu is that its a bit too much of a good thing. I noticed some patrons asking the staff how many more courses, followed by “ok, we are getting quite full”. If you are able to pick all the chocolates from the chocolate tree on the last course, you should get a prize. Maybe thats what he means by “Garrote”… kill, kill kill. But not sure what they can do to fix this other than a two hour nap break in the middle. In this facility it felt like they can pull it off.

One of the highlights was getting a tour of the kitchen at the end. I was expecting a very large, maybe 20 or so person kitchen, and what we saw was essentially around 50 chef factory. 50 chefs for 40 seats. By the end that €395 felt like a decent deal. An unforgettable experience and probably the best meal we ever had.

You can build your appetite, or kill some of the calories at Chillida-Leku, 5 minutes away. An open air museum featuring the work of Basque Country sculptor Eduardo Chillida. He did the Comb of the Wind in San Sebastian, and the stunning Elogio del horizonte in Gijon (Asturias)

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