Its that time of the year. The NYT Top 100 list is out and people on Social Media are losing their minds. The list is like eye candy for food enthusiasts with all sorts of juicy nuggets. It includes many cheap joints, albeit random in the grand scheme of NYC dining. But the expensive places are the usual suspects and ranking them all is like ranking apples and toasters. Imagine asking what’s better, a tiny Tamale shop in Harlem or Le Bernardin.
The list inspired me to write about some of the best eats during the last few months. Most in Manhattan and Brooklyn as usual. One in Staten Island for my Staten Island readers. Both of you.
Wagyu Flat Iron, Shrimp in Butter sauce at Shmoné (West Village) – The first Israeli to receive a Michelin star in the US. A fun and relaxed counter seating. Nothing extraordinary about the shrimp themselves, but with that butter sauce it would make NOLA chefs blush. And the steak with that tomato and tahini sauce is pure melt in your mouth awesomeness.
Chili Pan Mee at Pig & Khao (UWS) – First visit to the UWS location after many meals at the original in LES. A culture shock to say the least. From hip to hips. Meaning many mothers with children at this location. Much larger space but pretty much the same menu, and the same sick Chili Pan Mee. The French Toast for dessert not too shabby either.
Tum Strawberry at Rynn (East Village) – Rynn has become our go to Thai in East Village. But boy oh boy lunches are so much more relaxing than dinners. The place is no longer a secret, and neither are dishes like the Tum Strawberry. Pure magic.
Mochiko Chicken at Cotra (Brooklyn) – This Japanese is top 3-5 in Brooklyn for me these days. Every time we go we discover new dishes, like the cod last time. But regulars like the sick fried chicken are absolute musts. Cotra is the type that is liked by locals but you would never see on a NYT best list because of lack of marketing.
Everything at Mtskheta (Brooklyn) – You wont find any of the Georgian wine featured on Drops of God season 2. But the wine at Mtskheta is good and cheap, and so is the food. This has become my go to for large groups. NYT lists Tone on the list, quite high, but I prefer Mtskheta.
Falafel at Falafel Tanami (Brooklyn) – Speaking of the NYT list, looks like they removed Tanami. What changed? Absolutely nothing, except a new location two blocks away.
Dan Dan Noodles at Schuan Kitchen (Staten Island) – The name is not a spelling error, and the location is not autocorrect. Chinese food in Staten Island slowly but surely getting better. This tiny fast-casual is the first real Szechuan on the island, at least as far as I know. The excellent Dan Dan, String Beans, and dry spicy chicken have become our musts.
Just a bit further afield, in a remote area of the city I call Upper West Side, the legend lives on. In fact its right next to another displaced legend, Pig & Khao. Its like the forming of an EWZ classics refugee camp. Add a Song’ E Napule branch, one of our Neapolitan standouts, along with Miriam, Malka and more, and just like that, the UWS is not as bad anymore.
That means spending some time in the area can yield some delicious results, and tough choices. But since I had much of the day last Sunday, I just picked both legends. Brunch at Pig and Khao, long stroll in blooming Central Park, Jim Gaffigan at the Beacon, followed by dinner at Gazala’s.
Inside Gazala’s it doesnt feel like a legend. It feels like a regular casual Middle Eastern restaurant, even though it bills itself as “Mediterranean”. The difference can be subtle, but to me its closer to classic Middle Eastern. Gazala’s is still the only Druze Restaurant in the US. Yes, I Google this from time to time when I make this statement. Taboonia, opened by a Nova festival survivor, opened and closed within a year or so, but that was more of a fast casual Druze, not a full service restaurant.
The original Gazala’s was of course one of the staples in Hell’s Kitchen. I spent many hours there, including introducing it to co-workers and tourists as part of my original food tour (still suspended and have no plans to resume sorry). Visiting the UWS location, tasting the flavors, and seeing some familiar faces brought many memories.
Druze is an ethnic group living in villages in Israel, Syria and Lebanon. They have their own unique culture, and known particularly for their hospitality. In 2012 we were able to experience that just outside of Haifa, right next to the village where Gazala Halabi came from. She immigrated to NYC in 2001 and pretty much has been cooking for New Yorkers ever since. The original Gazala’s was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, NYT, Eater, and most importantly multiple times on EWZ.
The menu hasnt changed much. The classics are still the classics, and the Hummus is still some of the best you’ll find anywhere. We had a light meal after the marathon brunch at P&K, and as usual nothing but winners.
Boureka Tomato – One of the specialties since the beginning. You can have it with spinach but I’m partial to this one. A beautiful flaky combination of homemade cheese and sun dried tomato. It can feel a bit heavy so best to share.
Hummus Mosabaha – Hummus is one of the least exciting items a blogger can write about. I probably lost some followers when they read the title. But Hummus can indeed be a revelation. At Gazala’s its silky smooth, perfect consistency, and just the right flavor you’d expect from fresh Hummus. I bought extra to take home, and enjoying it with hard pretzels and whatever else I can dip there.
Moshakal – Like a grilled meat platter, and roughly 80% terrific. Didnt care for just one of the meats. The marinated grilled chicken in particular is excellent. This easily feeds two so that’s the end of the post. Go!
We have good news and bad news. First the good news. Miami’s food scene has seen a total transformation during the last 10 or so years. Walking around Miami Beach is like strolling around a NYC neighborhood. So many familiar faces like Lucali, La Grande Boucherie, Hasalon and many more. Many of which are much easier to reserve. But its not just the NYC connection, and not only Miami Beach. Wynwood and Downtown areas seem to be taking off as well.
Now, the bad news: Miami’s food scene has seen a total transformation during the last 10 or so years. Just copy and paste the good news. With the influx of business comes oversaturation, closures of iconic places, and skyrocketing prices. There are even new pricing trends we noticed, like charging 20% gratuity automatically while giving the option to add more that will go directly to your server.
Nevertheless, as a visitor, Miami is an embarrassment of riches today. In fact I was so overwhelmed, I went to two dinners on one night to experience two places that are totally different. Something I’ve never done before. Here’s the recap…
Bella Miami Beach
One of two Bella’s on the list. This is first Italian opened by the famed Israeli chef Eyal Shani who owns essentially an empire across the world: Miznon, HaSalon, Port Said, Malka, are just the NYC spots. While the appetizers here like the farro salad and Crudo were fairly standard, and not great value respectfully, the mains rocked. The roasted Branzino could not have been cooked better. And a superb Tagliatelle with Lamb ragu. All in the comfort of a pleasant hotel courtyard, served by a brilliant Argentinian waiter. 236 21st St, Miami Beach
Bella Cuba
The other Bella is another, well, “Bella”. A return visit for us, and how is this place not packed every time is beyond me. We pretty much settled on Snapper fillet and the comforting, flavor rich oxtail on each visit. The location tucked outside Lincoln rd feels like a hidden gem (maybe thats why its not packed), and the servers always seem happy. 1659 Washington Ave, Miami Beach
Stubborn Seed
The only Michelin Star in Miami didnt disappoint but didnt overly impress either. This is a highly acclaimed gem by Top Chef winner Jeremy Ford. They now accept reservations at the bar area where you can choose a la Carte which is decent value for a Michelin. Every dish like the Schiaciatta roll, Poblano Agnolotti, Truffle Chicken, and Bravas featured the kind of brightness, flavor and texture combinations one would except in a Michelin joint. But I suppose not enough wow to try again anytime soon. 101 Washington Ave, Miami Beach
La Leggenda Pizzeria
The Diego Maradona pictures and Napoli style oven means we are already halfway to greatness. The only thing left is a capable Pizzaiolo. Check! Light, airy delicious dough (Like eating a cloud), and a solid Neapolitan overall. While I appreciated the Margherita special, the Diavola flavors truly popped. Nifty Calzones to boot. 224 Española Wy, Miami Beach
Queen
This may raise some eyebrows. If you know, you know. Queen is not the type of place you’ll find on this blog. Its a glamourous 40 million reinvention of the old Paris theatre, offering Asian, mainly Japanese fair, a DJ and other live music. Its an experience, and opulence on another level. In order to convince myself to come to a place where food is not the main focus, I booked two dinners. Even on my birthday I think about ways to please Mrs Z. Luckily the food (sushi, octopus, tuna carpaccio) was more than satisfying. 550 Washington Ave, Miami Beach
On to Broward (short and sweet)…
At Peru
Looks like a tourist trap off the Hollywood boardwalk but still our favorite Peruvian in the area. 907 N Broadwalk, Hollywood
Motek
Essentially a nation wide Israeli chain these days but food is generally good and creative (especially the breads). The Aventura mall location is perfect for large parties.
Just a friendly reminder that Mtskheta is still awesome. Probably top 5 if not 3 in Brooklyn for me these days. Good enough to trust them with a large group birthday party. Georgian food in south Brooklyn is still relatively affordable compared to the rest of the city. My friends thought I made a mistake when the bill was $60 per person after tax/tip and plenty of Georgian wine.
Speaking of Georgian wine, if you havent seen yet, I highly suggest watching the second season of Drops of God on Apple. During the meal, I called an old Georgian friend who recommended to me Mtskheta, and of course we had to talk to about Drops of God. While the Georgian reds at Mtskheta wont be life changing, they are cheap ($25!) and serviceable. Click the original post to see what to order. The only dish I would add to the list is Khinkali which I havent had since the first time. I still find these Georgian dumplings hard to eat, but the flavors are quite something.
Just when we finally started seeing our sidewalks again after the previous storm, we got hit with a much bigger one. 27 inches fell in my neck of the woods. Speaking of necks, that’s halfway to my neck. A good time to reminisce about one of the best food trips we’ve ever done, this past October. If you are planning to go, not only you’ll have some juicy nuggets here, but you can pretty much use this as a “where to eat in Basque Country” guide. Top four are in French Basque.
Kintoa Pork at Choko Ona (Espelette)
I could have listed plenty of other dishes like the onion, but the pork was a standout. The name of the breed comes from back when local farmers had to pay the king a fifth (Kintoa) of their pigs as a tax. Its a rich but still delicate taste thanks to the expert cooks of One Michelin Choko Ona. The meat is perfectly cooked medium-rare, with supreme tenderness and juiciness. Served with leek and some sort of pesto, along with saffron pilaf rice and delicious Jus.
Mushroom Omelette at Pil Pil Enea (Saint-Jean-de-Luz)
I’m a sucker for a good Mushroom omelette and this was a jaw dropping wowzah. A master class in super fluffy, buttery omelette. I wasnt expecting to see so many omelettes in French Basque menus. And perhaps I should have stopped with this one as the next one I ordered in the same town wasnt nearly as good.
Monkfish at Ezkia (Bidart)
We have a love hate relationship with Monkfish these days. When its on its on, but on occasion, it’s less than stellar (I’m looking at you Eunoé in Paris). Some either work with this fish for the fist time or trying to be too innovative. At Ezkia in the tiny village of Bidart, the young chef got it right. Expertly cooked pieces swimming in a complimentary rich seafood bisque. Back to love.
Dessert at Les Frères Ibarboure (Bidart)
As soon as you get to the hotel and taste the cookie waiting for you in the room, you’ll get the sense that dessert here is no joke. After all, half of the brothers Ibarboure, Patrice, a Daniel alum, is a master pastry chef. At their renowned One Michelin, they dazzled us with their sweet creations. Mrs Z proclaimed the chocolate dessert, “best chocolate thingy I ever had”. We usually share but she got all weird in this case. Though I was extremely happy with my fig masterpiece.
The Mika at Bar Gran Sol (Hondarribia)
Bar Gran Sol is a multiple Pintxo award winner, and one of those awards is the sensational Mika. Shrimp and bacon in beer tempura and other goodies on an onion toast. Named after the cook who created it. While the egg mollete gets much of the hype here, the Mika is the one to get, along with the BBQ Rib. Come before they open for a drink and a table, otherwise risk long lines.
Rice paella with duck breast at Artean Barra Abierta (San Sebastián)
Picking a favorite dish from this hidden gem in food heaven San Sebastian is like picking your favorite child. Easy. Whoever calls more. Just like the steak tartare and every dish we had at Artean, this is as close to perfect you’ll ever get. Besides the duck and rice, you got mushrooms, and a terrific aioli tying everything together. Fantastic texture and flavors throughout, especially if you appreciate a good socarrat. Artean is run a by a Peruvian couple with extensive cooking experience. Book your flights before they get a Michelin star.
Besugo (red Seabream) at Xixario (Orio)
Whether its the famous Turbot of Getaria, the outrageous Basque Chuletón, or Besugo in Orio, the culinary richness of this region is too vast to fit into this post. A Besugo experience was on my list this time around. The only question was which of the handful or so Orio institutions to pick. While most tourists head to Joxe Mari, I opted for the more local Xixario, and have zero regrets. The result is meaty, vinegary, yet very light, and simply glorious. And dont sleep on the shrimp either.
Mushrooms with egg at Ganbara (San Sebastian)
The place and the dish are not exactly a secret. In fact in order to have this you’ll most likely need to spend an hour or so on a line. It’s worth it for the entire Ganbara experience. The dish is simple but quite excellent. A mix of Chanterelles and Cepes (Porcini) with egg yolk. Couldn’t get enough of the mushrooms on this trip. But what sets Ganbara apart is the amount of awesomeness besides the signature Mushrooms. One of which is the sensational shrimp in garlic sauce.
Grilled Cremini mushroom at Bar Soriano (Logroño)
While not exactly in Basque Country, it’s close enough and the area shares some of the same culture. The town of Logroño is like San Sebastian light, including in the cost dep’t. A Pintxo crawl here will most likely result in about half of the cost in San Sebastian or Bilbao. Start the crawl at Bar Soriano where they make only one item, a gorgeous skewer of grilled Cremini with olive oil, a small shrimp, and bread to soak all the juices. Walk around town and you’ll see more trying to mimic the same dish. Also try the mini Kobe beef cutlets at Torres Gastrobar
Chuletón at Txakoli Simon (Bilbao)
If you are a meat lover, you havent lived life to the fullest until you tried the marvelous bone-in ribeye steak from any of the Asadors offering it in Basque Country. Bilbao residents make the pilgrimage to the hills for this sprawling institutions, mostly for the glorious steak. It arrives fairly blue but with a grill for you to cook it as long as you wish. Plenty of funk, deep flavors, without much salt required. If you dont have reservations, you are directed to a picnic table and serve yourself. With reservations, you get full service.
Bonus: Any dish followed by a tour of the kitchen at Martín Berasategui
A wow and wower experience. I can pick about a handful of dishes that were spectacular and it would be criminal not to mention this here. If you want to add one three star to your food itinerary in Basque country, make it this one. I’ve done the homework for you with a tasting. You can read about it here.
Usually after the third or so trip to Spain and Portugal, you begin to understand their obsession with food and ingredients. You scratch the surface in the capitals and other large cities. But only when you get to regions like Asturias and Basque, you start to get it. It then becomes more obvious back at home which places are the pretenders and which are more legit. These days there’s no shortage, especially on the island of Manhattan. Real estate here makes them pricier than they should be, and “Tapas” and “Pintxos” hence redefined. But the techniques and flavors are certaintly there.
In no particular order, these are our favorite five. Other than the fifth (Newark), all in Manhattan.
Txikito – I still dont know how to pronounce the name, but according to the waitress I earned an A for what to order. Elevated Basque cooking in Chelsea by Spanish cuisine pioneers Alex Raij and Eder Montero. Always start with the classic octopus carpaccio. Then the decadent Arroz Meloso, and Cochinnilo (suckling pig). Pay attention to specials like Txangurro (deviled crab gratin). But my favorite these days is the sublime Pochas, a bean stew with shellfish. 240 9th Ave
Tomiño Taberna Gallega – NYC’s best if not only pure Galician. Meaning get the Octopus. We once met a couple from Galicia in Washington Square Park who shared their love for Tomiño. Since then I no longer dismiss it for being in the heart of Little Italy. The Galician octopus is the star, but I’m not sure I’ve had a bad dish here. I’m also partial to the Parrillada de Setas, the best grilled mushroom salad you’ll ever have. 192 Grand St
Tia Pol – In Spanish rich Chelsea, this is one of the more accessible names, and the closest we have to a Tapas joint in Spain. Opened over 20 years ago with the help of Alex Raij and Eder Montero from the mentioned Txikito fame who cemented the menu. The Txipirones en su Tinta, squid cooked with its ink and rice is the one must, but you cant go wrong with the Patatas Bravas, Gernika Pimientos, and other classics. 205 10th Ave
Leitao – One of my favorite discoveries during the last few years. Comfortable, fun, accessible, and a menu that reads like Portugal’s greatest hits. Even the infamous Francesinha is on it. The piri piri chicken, butterflied fish, and Polpo are some of the usual hits, but I wouldnt sleep on the fall off the bone Robalo, well marbled Iberico Ribs cooked with wine and topped with a toasted garlic and chili mix. 547 Hudson St
Sabor Unido – Three times in the past year makes Sabor Unido our most frequent Spanish or Portuguese and its not even in NYC. The Ironbound neighborhood in Newark NJ is essentially our Little Portugal even though many of the Portuguese restaurants are owned by Brazilian immigrants these days. Sabor Unido replaces Seabra’s Marisqueira as our favorite there. Smaller, more relaxed, and the food is outstanding. Octopus, shrimp in garlic, baked chicken with potatoes, always solid. And their wines and Sangria are top notch. 77 Jefferson St, Newark, NJ
Even prior to coming I got the sense that Curaçao is not exactly a culinary destination. I got blasted for this and the notion that its difficult to find fresh fish on Reddit, but I stand by the claims, especially since some residents agreed. With that said, there’s plenty of decent food, including some nifty tuna, shrimp, and octopus dishes. But the islanders prefer to fry their fresh fish, mainly Snapper. The one big positive is that compared to NYC, Anguilla, TCI and the rest of the them, there’s decent value here.
I had to pause for a good minute to come up with the last word in the title. Hmmm in this case means the food didnt win me over, but its good enough, and there are other reasons to go. Not only that but these are arguably some of the most famous spots on the island, and a big part of the Curaçao puzzle. So the hmmm column can very well include some memorable meals.
The Good
Kome – As soon as you walk in you get a sense that this is one of the more popular places. It also feels like the kind of place you find in a large US city, including the menu. With that said, on a Wednesday Tapas night, after a strong start, there were enough misses for a downgrade. The hits: Gnocchi, Mushroom Toast, Truffled Risotto and the two sensational desserts (Bolo and profiteroles). The misses: Fish Tacos, Mac and cheese, and a Crunchy Thai Chicken that was anything but crunchy or flavorful. Still, I’d come back to this one.
La Reina beach, food, coffee and lifestyle – I dont get paid by the word, but I’ll give you the full name anyway as it’s listed on Google. An unexpected surprise after another place was closed for lunch. The place is pretty much just as the name suggests; a beach club, and a food, coffee, and lifestyle shop. Inside you got multiple rooms, some decorated like a museum. And the food is mostly solid especially a top dish of the trip nominee Gambas Pil Pil. Finally some heat! Superb goat cheese salad and sliders as well. The lone miss was a sad mushroom pasta which needed exactly what the pil pil dish had.
Rozendaels Original Cuisine – This place has a lot of things going for it, starting with the relaxing, sprawling courtyard. Good food overall led by the Laman, Gambas Pil-Pil, octopus, and Stoba. Although surprisingly one of the best dishes was a simple fried polenta topped with cheese. On the downside, a few oddly bland dishes like the sweet potatoes with roasted chickpeas, a terrible drink menu, and a cranky owner (maybe direct result of the drink menu).
The Great
BKLYN – Pound for pound best meal of the trip. As far as food, service, drinks, atmosphere, just one came close to match this combination. Probably the only place that would do well in NYC, ironically (or not) named and influenced by one of its boroughs. The highlights were the tuna lollipops, ribs, smoky little gem, funchi fries and crème brûlée. The drinks were superb as well especially the My Tai which takes 6 days to make (island time!). Another highlight were Brenda and Dylan who manage the front with ease and by the end of the evening become your island friends.
MosaCaña – Our first meal set the bar a bit too high for most on the list. Friendly service, superb drinks (Republic Banana, Johnny Colada). Much of the menu is Asian inspired, and much of the flavors come from terrific Asian sauces. Fried cauliflower with sweet chili soy glaze was expertly cooked. Fried calamari with chili sauce does the job. Succulent, tender ribs, akin to a nice Thai style glaze. The grilled tuna was probably my favorite. Fresh, brightened with an acidic sauce and pico de gallo. Jerk fries weren’t very jerky tho. Strawberry desserts usually don’t do it for me but this was excellent.
The Hmmm
Grand Café ‘Gouverneur De Rouville’ – Come for the history, atmosphere and view from the balcony. Just don’t expect food that will knock your socks off, but it was more than acceptable. Stuffed mushroom and banana soup were decent starters. Keshi Yena, a local specialty, like a strange Chicken Parm and Lasagna mashup, was pretty much what I expected. Better than the Caribbean chicken which you can easily skip. My favorite was the fish of the day (Corvina) with a complementary creamy mustard sauce, but wife was not a fan. Another thing they have going is one of those rare breed super waiters and humans named Samir.
Jaanchie’s – The oldest restaurant on the island is one of the more unique. Wait for the owner to sit down with you and explain how the menu works in his own way. While you listen to the sounds of 50 or so small yellow birds hanging around and being fed. Its sort of an eatery and bird sanctuary. The one mystery is opening time. I believe it was 1:15 pm when the opened the door. Its really more about the experience, though many swear by the food. Ours came room temperature, and more like basic comfort food. Like eating at your in-laws. And you get to try Iguana which is the least scariest scary food you’ll ever have.
La Bohème – Strictly for the Punda Vibes experience every Thursday, if you absolutely must be in the thick of the action. You can reserve for drinks and a snack like Chicken Curry Arepa. Maybe have a heartier lunch. Just dont expect mains like the Lomo Saltado to rock your world.
Café George – One of the finer establishments. Newer, French inspired. Just tried a couple of dishes here for a quick lunch before flying out and no complaints whatsover here. Terrific Nicoise salad. While fresh fish was lacking, we couldnt get enough of the tuna on the island. And Croque Madame did the job and then some. Good enough to try for dinner next time. And another reason to stay at Avilla. Both the greats and this one within 5 minute walk.
Finally made it to Josh Pinsky’s and Chase Sinzer’s Penny, the upstairs neighbor to big brother Claud. Same story as many of the spots we visit. Wait just enough time for the hoopla to settle down. With Penny, its still tough to make ressies on a whim, but fairly easy with a reminder two weeks out at 9 am. I dont get why it took so long for restaurants to switch from midnight to 9 am. Finally giving locals a better chance than some tourists.
The duo created something special with Claud and Penny in East Village. As long time readers know, I’ve been following Pinsky since the Momofuku Nishi days. I remember eating some nifty seafood dishes like skate wing, scallops, and one particular mammoth Lobster Spaghetti that would probably be double the price today. At some point Nishi was my favorite restaurant in the city. Pinsky, in Momofuku fashion, continues to set trends, not so much follow them.
So it wasnt exactly shocking when the sequel was seafood focused with a Ko-like bar setup. The surprise was when they billed themselves as a “walk-in seafood restaurant”, initially at least. With this type of hype, you need to time your walk-ins perfectly. By 6:30 on a Saturday the wait was at two and half hours. This also means of course, you are expected to finish in 90 mins, as so many places in NYC these days. In Curacao last week, we were warned at one place that we only had two and half hours to enjoy our meal. A luxury only available in the outer boroughs these days.
The seafood as expected was as perfect as it gets. Rivaled by places like Theodora, though a bit more refined and ingredient driven at Penny. Another bonus with the bar/counter sitting, unlike Theodora, you can actually talk to the staff, and no one shouts the orders right at your ear. The only complaints: Mrs Z was a little cold sitting close enough to the door, and at 5′2″ couldn’t reach the bottom of the bar stool. Maybe its time to introduce high chairs for adults, and make them elegant somehow.
The food rundown:
Penny Martini – I appreciate a short and to the point drink menu. Just get this if you are a martini lover or just enjoy them on rare occasions like me.
Sesame Brioche – Sexy is the first thing that came to mind (maybe just my mood at the moment). The shape, the warmth, the softness, with that room temp butter you can eat with a spoon. A must get.
Beets + Trout Roe – All kinds of surprises under the thinly sliced beets besides the roe, like raisins, and more beets. A borscht lover and hater delight.
Puntarelle – A superb special. Dont see this crispy chicory cousin outside of Italy much. This one comes with marinated tuna and a light anchovy vinaigrette. The veggies here dont get enough credit.
Tuna Carpaccio – So simple yet so good. Went very well with the onions especially, for me (olives for her). I’d add a few pink peppercorns myself but this was exceptional.
Seafood Broken Rice – Creamy, hearty, and light somehow at the same time. Like a cross between couscous and risotto with bay scallops, lobster, halibut and more. Every morsel produces different results
Halibut + Kohlrabi – Another sensational dish. Just like the rest of the dishes, ingredients pop including even dill in this case.
Ice Cream sandwich – Looks like something a 5 year old made with Wonder bread. But once you take the first bite, a wowzah. A carrot cake jam takes it to another level. And that super soft brioche again the perfect partner.
Choc Mousse – Good as well, but fairly standard and forgettable after the sandwich. I’m still not convinced EVOO, no matter how good, elevates in this case, but I might be in the minority.
We did spend a pretty penny at Penny but we probably ordered two more dishes than needed. Ordering two desserts means a happy Ziggy and wife wanting to try more, but one dessert, and one veggie dish should suffice next time. Since it only took two years to make it, might as well make it count. Nevertheless, prices seem fair. Go!
Curaçao will grow on you. After day one, you’ll wonder if you made a mistake. After the third day, a return turns into a possibility. And after the fifth day, you are shopping for snorkeling gear for the return trip. Not sure how universal this is, but to those of us used to TCI, Anguilla, and other places where spectacular beaches reign supreme, a place like Curaçao needs some time. Its the sum of its parts, and those parts need to be discovered.
One of the major parts, missing from most islands, is the capital, Willemstad. An absolute gem. The architecture and colors were expected, while the random street art, like “Three o’clock romance” for example, not so much. Talking about art, one of the highlights was meeting Giovani at 7.1 Experience Art Gallery. Incredible art work all over the island and Aruba. He just finished a dolphin for a new gas station by the landfill.
There are spectacular beaches alright but all quite busy no matter how far they are. By the time you reach the remote Grote Knip, the island crown jewel, almost an hour from Willemstad, you’ll discover the masses that beat you to it. Cas Abao was another worthwhile schlep, until hungry iguanas chased Mrs Ziggy away. I had no idea she can run this fast. Porto Marie is your destination if mud wrestling with wild black pigs is on your bucket list.
Avila Beach Resort also grew on us. Walking distance to many restaurants and a 20 min walk to town. After 10 minutes the street turns more scenic but the sidewalks in a bad shape. It used to be a rough neighborhood I’m told but now it’s a vibrant food hub. Even with any day trippers the hotel felt fairly quiet for the most part. The beach is not world class but the water is that of a world class beach. Like a bathtub. The water is so clear you can see your pedicure 5 feet in. Problem is everyone else can too.
Curaçao doesn’t have the big long beach like TCI, Aruba, and other islands, but it has many things going for it besides the above. Snorkeling and diving is world class. The weather is much more guaranteed at this time of the year. And hotels and food are cheaper when compared to NYC, TCI, Anguilla, and many more. We paid around $120-$150 for two for a complete more.
This is not a food destination by any means, but we managed to find some gems. Curaçao excels at “New American”, playful, Asian inspired fair, but lack in European. Another issue I noticed before I even got there, is the lack of fresh fish that’s not deep fried. But the tremendous value more than made up for it. And we did have some fantastic tuna and shrimp. More on that later.