Efimero – Cusco’s Best Kept Secret

It will be interesting to see the the next Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, coming out on December 1. I’ve never paid much attention to this list before. In fact, I didnt even know it exists as a separate list from the World’s Top 50. But now that I started exploring South America (better late than never), I’m all too familiar. Lists as such can seem random and sometimes nonsensical (except mine of course), but they can also be a good source before the vetting process.

If Efimero is omitted from the list, it would be both shocking and not totally surprising at the same time. Its not only in Cusco, not Lima, but its literally and figuratively a hidden gem. Most locals we spoke to never heard of it. And while close to the main square, its tucked inside a courtyard you can easily miss. As of early September, you could still get in without reservations on most nights. But after getting a taste of some of the places on the list, Efimero absolutely deserves a spot.

Efimero is keeping a low profile. Or maybe in Peru, outside of Cusco you dont have much of a choice without a thriving influencer scene. I also found a similar story in Ollantaytambo, except that one was hidden in plain sight, and still empty. You wont find Efimero on most if not any Best of Cusco lists, unless you dig deeper for this rare archeological find. Instead of another piece of pottery, its a rare coin.

When you first see Christian Navarrete Véliz, you wonder if they have a bring your kids to work days in Peru restaurants. The dude is 28 but looks closer to 15. And at 28 he already established quite a resume. Mirazur in France, Spain’s Mugaritz, Central in Lima, among other notables. Efimero is his first baby opened about a year ago. I never know what to expect from places like this. Could be great, or an experiment gone horribly wrong. But the end result was somewhere between Michelin one and two star quality with Bib Gourmet prices.

Its a small concentrated menu where every dish is about the same size. Five dishes including dessert was plenty for us. Its one of those cases where pictures dont really tell you much except for the plating style. The main ingredient is often buried entirely, and we’ve seen that in other restaurants in Peru. Maybe the element of surprise is more important here than Instagram.

After much deliberation we settled on Octopus, Tempura, Lamb, Antitucho and Banana dessert as they are named on the menu. Every single dish was stellar. Just the perfect balance, distinct flavors and textures, and smart use of sauces and foams. The Octopus especially was a triumph, topped with Lisa, one of roughly 4000 native Tubers. Its one of Christian’s favorite dishes, along with the Tempura, another masterpiece.

The expertly cooked Antitucho was beef in this case, not beef heart which is more traditional. The Lamb was more like a glorious stew you eat with a spoon. And the banana dessert was just the perfect finish for this banana everything lover.

A top 5 meal that beat some Lima gems. I spent the rest of my time in Cusco contemplating coming back but at the end we were glad to try some of the rest. One in particular (Oqre) was almost just as good. More on that and the rest of Cusco meals later.

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19 Cleveland – Whats in a Name?

“America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland” – Tennessee Williams. I’ve never been to Cleveland but I’ll take his word for it. I also doubt Eyal Hen and his partners ever been to Cleveland, otherwise the conversation on how to name this place would be longer. Three visionaries with a naming block (yes there’s such a thing) settling for the address that includes “Cleveland”.

What was wrong with something like “Carmel”, the name partner Asaf Maoz chose for his current restaurant in LA. And what would have happened if they were located on 6 1/2 Avenue, or East 3rd st. The naming possibilities were endless. But I get it. At some point around the time 19 Cleveland opened in 2018, naming it after the neighborhood or street was trendy. The Nomad, Chambers, etc etc.

But other than the name, there’s much to like about 19 Cleveland. After the success of Nish Nush (see, now thats a fun name that rolls off the tongue), the fast casual joint that turned our falafel scene upside down pretty much, a contemporary Middle Eastern/Mediterranean/Israeli was the natural progression. Hen teamed with culinary virtuoso Asaf Maoz to create a menu that’s pretty much for everyone including grandma. Its a rare moment where everything on the menu speaks to me.

But as much as we want to try everything, we keep ordering some of the same items. These days its usually Sunday Brunch which includes plenty of savory stuff you’ll find for dinner, or as they call it, Sunset Menu. I suppose I can also talk about their menu naming conventions. They use a lot of Hebrew like Boker Tov (good morning), Salatim (salads) which is great for Hebrew speaking people like me (its rusty), but can be a little confusing for the rest. But you can feel at home here, regardless if you speak the language.

Courtesy of 19 Cleveland

Ever since an Israeli chef in Flatiron introduced us to Eggplant Carpaccio, we order it everywhere we see it, including here. Though I would prefer a nice warm pita just like what comes out with the Hummus instead of the very hard pita crackers. The smoky eggplant here comes with Feta, Pistachio, Raw Tahini & Pomegranate. Essentially Hava Nagila in your mouth. The wedding version.

The creamy silky smooth Hummus is another must on every visit. This was the first time we tried one topped with Garlic & Tomato. While good, I’m not sure I prefer over the Hummus Masabacha here. Still I think the best Hummus can be found at Gazala’s in UWS, but this is pretty darn good.

Another thing we usually order is the Short Rib Burekas. It got the flavors and texture but not quite big enough and not meant to share between four people. The Chicken Shawarma is a step above the average. The Branzino Shawarma is fine as well, but we prefer the chicken. I indulge in the spicy Falafel Sandwich or Safta’s Chicken Schnitzel when I feel naughty. The Shakshuka hasnt totally won me over, but the family likes it.

Friendly service, fine drinks, comfortable whether you are in the cozy back or the more buzzy bright front. And very easy to reserve. One of the only places in the city where we feel at home as a family. And as long as they dont use the Staten Island naming convention (Hummus R Us), I dont really care what they call it.

19 Cleveland
19 Cleveland Pl (Nolita)
Recommended Dishes: Eggplant Carpaccio, Hummus Masabacha, Short Rib Burekas, Chicken Shawarma

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10 Tips for Machu Picchu

Planning a trip to Machu Picchu? You came to the wrong place. Unless you are holding a baby, you have to drop what you are doing and get those MP tickets, before its too late. But since you already here, might as well check out these tips. I can almost guarantee that some of these will be new, even after extensive research.

Its actually Machu PEEK-choo

Raise your hand if you knew that. I met people that have been to MP and even took a tour and didnt know this. Now here’s why it matters. MAH-choo PEEK-choo means old mountain in Quechuan, the local dialect. While MAH-choo PEE-choo means old…. Penis! One theory is that locals dont correct visitors because they need to entertain themselves somehow. But its probably most likely the name got anglicized over the years

Buy MP tickets well in advance

This may be obvious, but you will be surprised how many travelers are not aware of this, and scramble at the last minute. This is pretty much the first thing you need to do after getting your flights. At least three months in advance. You will need your passport numbers when booking as with many of the purchases including some restaurants according to Peru law. You will also need to choose a “Circuit”. 2-a and 2-b are widely considered the best.

Prepare for a train sticker shock

You may have heard how cheap Perus is. And for the most part its a whole lot cheaper than US and much of Europe. Except when it comes to the train to Machu Picchu which will make Swiss trains cheap. Its essentially a duopoly that operates like a monopoly. Both companies offer pretty much the same prices which can easily top $200 for a round trip per person. We paid around $300 for the two of us

The train upgrades arent worth it

While researching you will see a variety of opinions on this so I will just add another one. Book whatever times convenient to you, and dont stress on the type of train. The difference between the basic and the upgraded trains like 360 and Vistadome dont merit paying the extra $$$ IMO. We did both on the Inca Rail and the difference was too marginal to impact the enjoyment level much. It also doesnt matter which side you sit, as frankly in the grand scheme of things of stunning Peru, the views were not as impressive as advertised.

Stay in Ollantaytambo

Its weird that most MP visitors stay in Cusco, and dont at the very least split their stay. Ollantaytambo is not only a lot closer, but you will need to go through it anyway. Its an actual living Inca city, and you will get a better understanding of MP after seeing the Olla sites first. But the most important reason is that its 2000 feet lower than Cusco, and that should help you with the acclamation.

No absolute need to buy bus tickets well in advance

You will see this advice often, but mainly from people who never arrived without bus tickets. You will most likely save a whopping 5-10 minutes if you buy bus tickets online. This is one area they made very efficient. Just go to the Consettur Bus Ticket office located on Avenida Hermanos Ayar (where the line is), and immediately go to the machine to take a ticket like a confident pro, and wait for your number to be called. One issue with getting all the tickets in advance is that you lose it all if the weather doesnt cooperate or you dont show up for another reason.

Stand on the right line

This is one thing we werent aware of and lost some time as a result. We were hardly the only ones. The long line you will see for the bus may not be for you if you arrive too early or even on time. The front of the line will usually have a sign that will indicate the timed line which we missed. At around 9 am, the long line can still be for the 9 am ticket holders while the 10 am is slowly forming by the wall. PS, good coffee at La Rivera Coffee Center on the same street

No need to prearrange with a guide

On the bus line there will be plenty of guides offering their services. The guides usually live in Cusco, and stay in Aguas Calientes for days if not weeks, leaving their families behind. You already spent $$$$ by this point just to get here, and supporting local guides will be small pocket change in comparison. But there’s no need to look for a guide on the internet as I did. Not only you will pay more but the recommendations are just like restaurants and hotels, subjective and cant really be compared to any other guide. Another tip is to make friends on the train or bus line and share the cost of the guide.

Read the fine print

Machu Picchu officials are a little finicky about what tourists are allowed to bring to the citadel. No umbrellas, high heels, baby strollers, tripods, selfie sticks (YES!!!), large backpacks, and even certain walking sticks like trekking poles with metal tips. All of which can harm the historic stones or other people. We were stopped because someone in our group had a portable chair she used as a walking stick. After a lot of begging the guard finally let us in.

Eat at Indio Feliz

Dont short change Aguas Calientes. Its a actually an attractive town with a population of 5000. It felt a little more local than I imagined after exploring much of the town. And boy did I pick the right place for lunch. Indio Feliz is not exactly a secret once you go up and discover entire group tours hiding in various floors above you. Its one of those places that look like a museum, with better than decent food. Try the Mango Chicken, a house specialty.

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La Mar – The Quintessential Lima Experience

Some people eat to live, some live to eat. If you are the latter, Lima should be high on your mental list, if not there already. If you are the former, Lima is not for you. Why selective eaters come to Lima is a small mystery. To see the erotic pre Colombian art at the Larco Museum? The homeless cats of Miraflores? There’s just enough to do and see here to merit a stay for more than one or two nights. But this is the one metropolitan city where food is its number one attraction and main reason to come. And that’s what makes this city so unique.

Some of the famed restaurants in Lima like La Mar are experiences in themselves. The La Mar experience starts months prior to the visit when you start reading reviews and studying the menu. You will quickly find out about the lines to get in, and your reaction may be, “f that, I’m not standing on a long line in a city with so many options”. Hit yourself with your bass fishing tournament participation trophy, or whatever closest. You will be in Lima, a city where you’ll pass the same cat colony 5 times. You’ll have plenty of time to stand on line for 30-60 minutes and be on your phone just like at your hotel room.

Your entire itinerary in fact will be centered around food, especially the day you will visit La Mar. Perfect time to skip the eggs and go for that yoghurt at the breakfast buffet, as hard as it is sometimes. And schedule a small museum like Larco in the morning before Ubering to the main event. In our case we arrived 30 minutes before opening (noon), and were the second couple in line. On the door it listed a capacity of 96, so after a quick math I determined we are in!

La Mar is a world renowned Cevicheria by the local legend Gastón Acurio. Like many Cevicherias in Lima, its open for lunch only. Traditionally Cevicherias were only open while the catch is fresh and available. Even with modern refrigeration and advancements today, they continue to keep traditions alive, but I suspect its also a business decision. Acurio and team are trying to mimic this experience all over the world with branches in Miami, SF, Dubai and more. The NYC location didnt last very long.

The Ceviche was indeed top notch. Fresh, delicious fish, well balanced tiger’s milk, different textures of giant corn (fresh and fried), and more spicy dry mix on the side in case we weren’t satisfied with the heat. And when you do go overboard, there’s sweet potatoes to extinguish the heat. In Ollantaytambo we had an incredible fancied Ceviche, but for a traditional this was simply perfect.

Another strong specialty here is the cold octopus smothered with a black olive and caper sauce that penetrated the octopus just enough to elevate. Our waiter recommended the grilled octopus instead which is an entire grilled octopus meant for a group. Tempting but with only two people a bit too much.

Then came the Causa. Causa is made mostly from layered seasoned mashed potatoes, stuffed with a protein and topped with hard boiled eggs and/or other stuff. In this case it was stuffed and topped with tuna tartare, avocado and eggs. Its bigger and heavier than what you see here, and its absolutely sensational. The challenge was to stop eating while getting full, since more is coming.

And as good as everything was, the lone hot dish was perhaps the best one. Arroz Enchichado, a creamy, slightly spicy risotto like, with hefty pieces of Congrio, Cusk eel in English, but not really eel. Texture somewhere between Halibut and Cod. Rich, comforting, complex, and easily best rice dish of the entire Peru trip.

But its really the sum of all parts. The atmosphere, service, local beer, comfort level, and the anticipation. Sit back and take it all in. Then go to the bathroom, and take in the view of 95 happy food pilgrims and locals. Food was just the icing on the cake.

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Markette – Just Another British Owned Euro Caribbean in Chelsea

First meal after a long trip usually feels like a mixed bag, even if the meal goes well. You are reminded of the quality and vastness of the NYC food scene, but at the same time, the cons get more noticeable. The more you travel, especially for food, the more you evaluate and reevaluate service, environment, and value in your own town.

Even small details, like taking away your credit card, instead of bringing the machine to you, suddenly feel like an adjustment. Why is the most developed country (arguably, I know) in the western world seems so stuck sometimes. And why is it suddenly so hard to get a decent meal for under $200 these days. Now we know how tourists feel.

Apologies to the Markette team who might be reading this strange post. Its not you, its me. You actually created a prototypical NYC establishment in a weird location, that still feels fresh somehow. This is not an easy feat in NYC these days. A Caribbean inspired menu utilizing European techniques may just be what NYC didnt know it needed.

Markette opened about a year ago on a block that rarely sees such openings. 7th Ave in Manhattan in Chelsea feels like middle of nowhere, smack in the middle of the city. When was the last time you went there for dinner?

Chef co-owner India Doris created a menu inspired by her Caribbean roots, and it didnt take too long to create a signature dish as showcased on Eater’s Mise en Place, now on Netflix. Oxtail Gratin – braised oxtail topped with fried cheddar polenta is both comforting and distinct tasting. Watching the Eater special makes you appreciate it even more. There was also Dorade which was just as good, thanks to its addictive sauce you can just drink with a straw.

There are also terrific fried Bacalhau balls with a vibrant scotch bonnet aioli. The one knock was that usually I can easily find more dishes that sounded great. But in this case we had to settle for a fried Okra that was flat and oversalted in comparison. The Peri Peri chicken sounded good but got too much negative feedback for my taste. And the $57 lamb seemed a bit too heavy and pricy considering the meal is already heavy (oxtail) and pricy.

The spacious comfortable room, bar, and Carrol the bartender who laughed at all my dad jokes deserve a mention. Markette seems just the type to bring a first date or meet future in-laws. And the drinks are solid. I especially appreciate a place that can make a riff on Paloma better than mine. Markette also operates The Argyle bar downstairs.

Markette is like that country that gave you a positive first impression, a place you will recommend to others, but you just know you will never come back. Its NYC. Life is too short, and some experiences just meant to be one and done. But there’s much to like here, and I would not have written this if I didnt recommend visiting at least once. Go!

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This is Palccoyo!

I feel that Peru’s jewels should be periodically reevaluated. Machu Picchu is no doubt stunning, but there’s a reason why I’m opting to write my first ever Peru post about Palccoyo, the other Rainbow Mountain. But before I get to that, did you know that we’ve been mispronouncing Machu Picchu all this time. Its actually Machu PICK-choo which means Old Mountain in Quechuan, the native Inca language. Machu PICH-choo means, wait for it… Old Penis. No wonder no one in Peru wants to correct you.

Machu Picchu got the looks and story, while Palccoyo IMO offers more sheer beauty. The result of millions of years of weathering and mineral oxidation, while being buried under a glacier. Hence the real comparison is with the much more famous Rainbow Mountain, Vinicunca. This is one of those situations where I feel most tourists are making a mistake, and there are good reasons why.

Palccoyo was only discovered right before Covid. Meaning, local indigenous communities of course knew about it, but it only opened to the public in 2018. Only three years after Vinicunca, but a three year head start was enough to put Vinicunca on the global map. Especially since Vinicunca got that showstopper shot at the end of the hike, making it very easy to sell.

Palccoyo doesnt have that money shot. But it takes just 5 minute from the parking lot to see the first of three Rainbow Mountains, and the entire 2 hour hike is as spectacular as I’ve ever seen. There are far fewer crowds (less than 10% of Vinicunca), and it’s a whole lot easier to manage. Vinicunca hike takes about two hours one way, and the hike itself doesnt offer the same spectacular views. Every guide we spoke to told us Palccoyo is the better option, while Vinicunca is the famous option. You see that often in travel.

That doesnt mean there’s no pain involved. To get here, just like Vinicunca, takes around 3.5 hours. Its an interesting drive through country side villages, a far cry from what you’ll see in Lima and even Cusco. The last hour is where the jaw starts to drop. A plethora of colorful bubbly mountains with scores of Llamas and Alpacas grazing on grass

Another factor is the elevation. At 4,900 meters (16,076 feet), you’ll be challenged in ways you didnt know exist. I had to take a breather every 5 steps going up. Under normal circumstances you can do this hike in 40 minutes, not two hours. But the views and various elements like the “Rock Forest” help. Walking down was much easier.

On the way back to Cusco, many if not all the tours of all the Rainbow Mountains intersect at the same lunch buffet. Not my favorite part of the day. I preferred breakfast where it was just us. Seeing our guide and driver order a huge bowl of Cordero (lamb) soup at 7 am, while we munched on our three bite ham and cheese sandwich packed by our hotel was interesting to say the least.

Most tours leave around 4-5 am for some reason. The negotiated 6 am start with David Aragon’s Cachi Life was perfect for us. We were back by 4. A day we will never forget.

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Top 10 Things We Ate in Campania

Without further ado…

Rabbit at Montecorvo (Forio, Ischia)

Starting with a no brainer. Stories, poems, and children books have been written about the Ischian rabbit. Ok, I’m making up stuff here, but it is indeed famous. At this old-timer in Forio you need to order it when you make reservations. And the result is juicy, tender and flavor packed. Like a fine Cacciatore. And just as other traditional places on the island, there’s the option of Bucatini cooked with the rabbit braising sauce.

Lemon Pasta at La Tinaia (Forio, Ischia)

From the outside, La Tinaia doesnt look like much, but inside… not so much either. But once you start chewing, you begin to understand why your taxi driver got so excited. The pizzas for a place not in Napoli are solid, and so are the pastas. But the Lemon Pasta in particular, literally left us speechless. Its unlike anything I had before. And dont even think about leaving without finishing with the Pistachio Cheesecake.

Pasta with beans and mussels at Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella (Procida)

Another no brainer, but hard to pick a single dish from one of the most memorable meals of the trip. Partly due to the location, picture perfect Maria alla Corricella on the island of Procida. Think Positano without the tourists and penis shaped Limoncello bottles. The dish featured various pasta, was hearty, and quite addictive. But also dont skip the prawns, lemon salad, and Carbonara with local tuna.

Montanara at 50 Kalo (Naples)

Pizza rarely makes an appearance on these lists on this blog, but it shouldnt be a shock to anyone that there will be three mentions this time. Starting with the local fave 50 Kalo, and their glorious Montanara (fried pizza). That intense tomato sauce and bite meant ordering Montanara everywhere we went. But none matched this brilliance.

Diavola at Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria (Naples)

This is one of the most respected Diavolas in the city but also one of the most elaborate with spicy salami, sweet pepper cream, yellow tomato cream, orange zest, and sun dried pepper. I have a love hate relationship with hot honey, but the sweetness here works very well. And sitting on the elevated patio overlooking a quiet piazza is the icing on the cake. Petrucci Pizzeria is a hidden gem in plain sight.

Carnevale pizza at Pizzeria Attilio’s (Naples)

A legendary pizzeria that actually feels like one (to an American at least). Third generation Attilio, same name as his grandfather continuing the traditions including the star shaped pizza his grandfather invented. I first had it at the great 400 Gradi in Lecce. The edges here are filled with ricotta and topped with that famous potent tomato sauce, fior di latte, and sausage. As the name suggests, Carnevale in your mouth

Grilled red tuna at A Taverna d’ ‘e Zoccole (Naples)

Accidentally saved the best meal in Naples for last. And accidentally (I swear) chose a place that loosely translates to Tavern of the whores. Like pizza, Seafood in Naples is no joke, and Zoccole is the place to try it. While every single dish was stellar, it came down to choosing between the Tuna Carpaccio and the sensational grilled tuna. Meaty, fatty, and didn’t need any seasoning. Pure joy with every morsel.

Stuffed Peppers at Trattoria Da Armandino (Praiano) 

Although we ate in other towns, including more acclaimed places in Amalfi Coast, all of our top meals were in Praiano. Starting with this jewel with a picturesque setting by the marina. We just missed Matthew McConaughey who dined here a day before with his family. He was shooting “Positano” with Zoe Saldaña. While every dish was solid, the peppers stuffed with soaked bread that had the consistency of a fine couscous was the most interesting.

Amberjack at KmO (Praiano)

If I had to pick one place that deserves its own post, its Km0 in Praiano. At the helm are two Antonios who could not have been more different, but yet compliment each other perfectly. The young one is the passionate and humble, while his father in law is the cook and quite the character. The thoughtfulness and special attention to detail in every dish is unmatched. Like the perfectly seared Amberjack with Fava Beans and pancetta

Tagliolini with black truffles at Kasai (Praiano)

This is a another no brainer from one of the top dining destinations in Praiano. We witnessed a proposal while dining here, and almost a divorce when she didn’t want to share the Tagliolini with black truffles with me. One of three outstanding pastas. The others were Spaghetti with red squid, and homemade spaghettoni with “scarpariello” sauce, essentially the best red sauce you’ll ever have. But that truffle pasta was absolutely sublime.

Bonus: Lime and pink peppercorn flavored potato chips by PiuGusto.

Our Amalfi boat tour skipper introduced this to us and we couldnt get enough of it the rest of the trip. It was available in just about every grocery store in Amalfi Coast.

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The Case for Napoli

Add me to the Napoli bandwagon. It only took me about 20 years. While post Covid revenge travelers continue to flock to Florence, Rome, Positano, Venice, and Cinque Terre, there’s no shortage of emptier gems all over the country. Many of which like Turin are arguably more pleasant to visit these days. I dare to say Napoli was more enjoyable than Rome last June.

The main reason Napoli is a lot more pleasant this time than 20 years ago is safety. As our guide of the Spanish Quarters, Sarita, told us, back then she wasnt even able to visit some of these parts as a local. The safety stigma is still alive and well even today. And while Napoli isnt as rich as the north, and still possesses some of that gritty energy you’d expect, its generally as safe as any large city in Italy.

The Pizza Capital

Lets get the obvious stuff out of the way. The birthplace of pizza has a unique pizza culture like nowhere else except maybe NYC. The comparison is another discussion. But once you start researching, it doesnt take long to realize that the city is obsessed with pizza like nowhere else in Italy. The bar is so high that its almost impossible to find bad pizza. We got a small taste which I covered here.

The Seafood

It was easy to eat pizza every day, and it was hard not to eat seafood every day. You have to take a break if you want to try the more traditional stuff like Pasta alla Genovese and Pasta con Patate e Provola. But to me the seafood is the second culinary reason to come. We still talk about the tuna carpaccio and grilled red tuna at A Taverna d’ ‘e Zoccole, loosely translates to Tavern of the whores. No, that’s not why I picked our top meal in Naples.

Location Location Location

One thing that struck me this time was the amount of interesting day trips available from Napoli. You may have a heard of places like Sorrento and Pompeii, but how many of you heard of the Royal Palace of Caserta (The Italian Versailles), and Procida which I already covered. These are not just something you can do if you have extra time, but attractions that rank up there with the best of them. The more famous Ischia is another destination most Americans never even heard of.

Monuments Galore

When I first visited Naples, roughly 20 years ago, all I remember is the grand Castles and the traffic. That’s the main reason it took me this long to come back. I dont even recall having pizza, and I’m not a huge fan of castles to begin with. But upon closer look, the city is not shy of world class monuments and landmarks like Galleria Umberto I, the Royal Palace, and the vastness one can see underground. The striking Sansevero Chapel and the veiled Christ alone worth staying for a few days.

The Maradona Culture

You hear about the connection, but you dont fully understand it until you stay for a while. While touring the Catacombs of San Gennaro, I jokingly asked the guide if Maradona was buried there among the many saints, and he replied “No, Maradona is not a saint. He’s a god”. The guy put the city on the global map far beyond Football, and you cant walk two minutes without a reminder of that. The Spanish Quarter is a good place to start to understand the obsession.

Neighborhood Diversity

If we played Family Feud, the answers to “Napoli – what’s the first thing that comes to mind”, would include dangerous, gritty, pizza, crazy drivers, mafia, dirty. Only one answer so far is a compliment. But things are very different these days. You may find that gritty energy I mentioned earlier in the older neighborhoods, but you’ll also find attractive modern neighborhoods like Vomero and parts of Chiaia. Though we never felt unsafe at the older areas like Rione Sanità, and Spanish Quarter. Staying on the east side of Chiaia would be my preferred location.

Hidden Gem in Plain Sight

Been to Lake Como, Venice, Florence, Rome, Positano, Capri lately? Wall to wall visitors, in many cases quite literally. So many simply use Naples as a transport hub, or overlook it entirely. That’s what still makes Naples feel more real and authentic. Its a perception issue that’s tough to shake off. Personally I have plenty of unfinished business, about 23 pizzerias to start.

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Best in Manhattan Update

Time for another Best Of refresher. This time our beautiful island of Manhattan. Its a total revamp. We say goodbye to Nish Nush, Foxface and a few others that sadly closed. Saying hello to Gazala’s, Papa San, Lola’s, Penny, RYNN Thai, Bananas, Beto’s Carnitas & Guisados, New Spicy Village. Like any list this may seem random to some, but there’s a whole lot of juicy nuggets here.

The List

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Three Gems in Forio (Ischia)

After Amalfi Coast, Ischia felt like a totally different animal.  The herds are gone, Americans replaced by Dutch, and pizza replaced by rabbit, and more pizza.  It’s the vacation after vacation you didn’t know you needed when you booked the Amalfi Coast. In fact it didn’t take long for it to feel like a Caribbean island, starting with our Dominican shuttle driver.  

Food was a bit more hit and miss than I normally like, which feels like a trend lately. Not the best timing before our first trip to Lima. But we managed, and always end up finding some juicy nuggets. Other than our one meal in Procida, all our eating was in Forio since that’s where we stayed. Didnt feel the need to venture too far from the excellent Tenuta del Poggio Antico.

Montecorvo

While many do the pilgrimage to this old timer, it just happened to be a five minute walk from our our hotel. Walking more than 5 minutes on these roads reduces the chances of making it alive 1% for every minute. Montecorvo opened in 1983. The original owner passed away a few years ago, and son Nicola runs the place now. Easy to reserve the same day via Whatsup, including how many rabbits you will need. One was plenty for the four of us.

Just about every traditional place in Ischia serves the famous Coniglio all’ischitana (Ischia-style rabbit). And many offer it with Bucatini cooked with the braising sauce. The Bucatini here is indeed superb, but the Tagliatelle with wild boar is even better. The rabbit itself is stellar. Juicy, tender and flavor packed. Like Cacciatore on crack.

With that said, its recommended to start your meal at Montecorvo with the house antipasti that took me back to Puglia for the amount and quality. Wash it all down with a local Tommasone, Tenuta Monte Zunta, an exceptional red blend of mostly Piedirosso. Our favorite dinner in Forio.

La Tinaia

From the outside La Tinaia doesnt look like much, and inside it looks more like a tourist trap than a place that would make this list. But locals swear by it. Our trusted driver Antonio almost ran over someone from excitement when I told him about our lunch plans. Owned by the same family since 1988, with the original owner’s wife and four daughters running it today.

You cant go wrong with any of the pizzas. Light, thin, with just the right chew and char. But as good as the pizzas were, you absolutely need to save room for pasta and even dessert. A special of Spaghetti with olives, capers and seafood, sublime. A seemingly simple Lemon Pasta, of the baby angels singing variety. One of the best dishes of the trip. And one of those pistachio cheesecakes you still talk about days later. Exceptional value for Americans. Pound for pound, one of the best meals of the trip.

Pietratorcia 

Forget everything you know about winery dining. In Ischia they skew more rustic, and unpretentious. This is a small family producer, dishing out solid, homey, comfort food paired with their delicious whites. Hard to find Ischian wine in the US, so make it count.

Terrific eggplant parm, bean soup with mussels and clams. A fine Fusilli with zucchini cream and guanciale. More delicious rabbit of course, but in this case you dont need to order a day or hours in advance.

Not in Ischia Bonus: Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella (Procida)

This is on the sister island picture perfect Procida. Recommended by our trusted skipper that took us on a tour around Procida. Another place that looks like a tourist trap, but there were hardly any tourists here. In fact there was a table full of fishermen right next to us. I already wrote about this place here

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