Ulivo, in the heart of NoMad isnt particularly known like a Lilia, Rezdora, or a Via Carota. It’s just one of a myriad of regional Italian in that part of the city, and unless you live nearby, it’s sometimes easy to forget it even exists. But there’s a reason it survived 8 years including a pandemic. 10 reasons in fact.
Fresh Pasta Galore – Gotta start with the bread and butter. On my first visit I was introduced to what I dubbed The Widow Maker. Lets just say its not exactly the pasta maker my kids bought me for Xmas. This is what you need in order to create a pasta centric menu, responsible for a dozen items in this case. Add a seasoned Sardinian chef and proper raw materials, and you get magic on a plate. Whether its Paccheri with braised tuna belly, Pici, Pappardelle or anything else that starts with P, you are in for a treat.
Underrated Pizza – While the focus initially was on fresh pasta, at some point they added another “Widow Maker”, an imported pizza oven producing Neapolitan pies within seconds. A capable pizzaiolo and top notch ingredients of course help. Even with this pasta lineup, I have a hard time not ordering at least one Diavola on every visit.
Seasoned Chef – He wont like me calling him seasoned (twice now), but Chef/owner/pasta wizard Emanuel Concas has been around, and can flat out cook. Since completing culinary school in Italy, he’s been cooking all over the world before settling in NYC. He started showcasing that talent in Hell’s Kitchen’s Mercato, his first restaurant, before opening Ulivo with his partner. When you meet him, you realize how passionate he is about food in general, including Asian and other cuisines.
The dependable starter – In a city that’s becoming fully a la carte including bread, olives and other used to be free items, its always refreshing to get a delectable free starter once in a while. Every meal in Mercato and Ulivo starts with fresh bread and a lentil dip plate that we lick to the point of no washing necessary.
The location – I may be fishing here, but the location in the heart of NoMad can not be any more central. No matter where I am in the city it seems, I’m fairly close to Ulivo.
Great Cocktails – Beverage director Antonello Iacca has been mixing them since he was a child. That explain some of the driving I’ve seen in Puglia. The simple but potent Gin-zilla is an award winner, but everything I’ve had here is nicely balanced.
The Olive Oil – As the name suggests, EVOO is an important aspect here, and in Italian cooking overall. To the rest of us its a concept, but for this Italian generation using the highest grade raw materials they can find is the only way they know.
Island Touch – Another thing that separates Ulivo is Sardinian and Sicilian specialties you wont find anywhere else, like Malloreddus alla Campidanese, Busiate, and the more common rigatoni alla norma.
Busiate con Pesto alla Trapanese – Worth its own entry. Its simple and unique at the same time. The consistency of the Busiate, along with the almonds, tomato, basil and plenty of garlic. The only dish I’ve ordered every single visit I think.
Easy to pop in – This is important to me. So many restaurants in NYC call themselves “corner neighborhood Italian”, yet require a month in advance to reserve. Some places are just more under the radar than others, and that doesnt necessarily make them subpar. I like that I can just be in the neighborhood with the family, and pop in unplanned. That to me is a neighborhood joint.
Ulivo
4 W 28th St (5th/Brdwy)
Recommended Dishes: Prosciutto San Daniele, Pizza, Paccheri, Busiate, Gnocchi, Tiramisu
Eating With Ziggy 