When was the last time you did the chicken dance? They still do them in weddings and events all over the continent as far as I know. Legend has it, the first chicken dance was in Florence in the 13th century when Florence seized control of much of Chianti from rival Siena (more on that later). So in order to give the proper homage to this famous wine region, and unless you’ve been to a Bar Mitzvah lately, start practicing that ancient dance. You will see that famous black rooster all over Chianti, sometimes proudly presented as larger than life statues. Wish to visit Chianti on a day trip from wherever (I recommend basing in this town)? Follow me on this chicken route…
Start your morning with a visit to the Castello di Verrazzano, one of the oldest (over 1000 years) and most respected wineries in Tuscany. Its educational, but the history, place and location offering some magnificent vistas, is what sets it apart. Its a great place to visit even if you are not into wine. The 10 am visit (there’s also a 3 pm) Classic Wine Tour ends with a tasting. You can also visit the store, have a nice long lunch, or book other experiences. But we have more to do…
A short drive away is Greve in Chianti. Visit for one of the most striking squares in Tuscany, which all but disappears on Saturdays when the market takes over. Its a catch 22 since the market is interesting as well, and you can still visit some of the square stores. Like the ancient, well respected Antica Macelleria Falorni where you can buy some high quality local salami and where Beef Tartare is treated as fast food. And if you are from NYC dont forget to take a selfie with homeboy Giovanni da Verrazzano whose statue dominates the square on non market days.
Speaking of Johnny, here’s a little tidbit. On October 1st, 2018 NY governor Cuomo signed legislation to correct the spelling of the VerrazZano-Narrows Bridge, adding that all important extra Z missing since 1960. The Z-gate feud between the one Z supporters, and two Z supporters that spanned decades, finally came to an end.. for now. While Google and all electronic signs reflect the new spelling, none of the old 96 signs reflect the name change. With that said, if you take the tour at Castello di Verrazzano, you can find an ancient barrel that shows ancient spelling with only one Z. And will New Yorkers ever change the pronunciation (ZZ is “TS”, like Pizza). The great explorer Verrazzano of course discovered the Bay of NY, before being eaten by Cannibals in the Bahamas. Thats why we go to Turks and Caicos.
Its almost lunch time, but before that there’s one more stop. This centers around a man as well, except that this one is very much alive. Panzano is home to the most famous butcher in Italy, maybe the planet, Dario Cecchini. Dario is an eighth-generation butcher born and raised in Panzano. He owns a butcher shop (Antica Macelleria Cecchini), a few restaurants, and is essentially the main attraction in this town based on the number of people and energy that usually surrounds his shops. He is the only butcher featured on Netflix’s Chef Table. Dario doesnt speak much English, and my Menu Italian wasnt strong enough to carry a conversation. You can have your Bistecca alla Fiorentina at Dario’s house. Or…
Head to Osteria Le Panzanelle, 5 km south of Panzano, with reservations in hand of course. Its an institution, popular with locals and visitors alike. Start with the luscious eggplant Involtini and/or green bean flan. Move on to the fresh, eggy Papardelle with a wild boar ragu that carries some serious depth. Then your choices are an excellent fried rabbit and chicken, or the very fine, and surprisingly affordable Bistecca. This place is popular, so it may take some time. So stay, relax, and.. sigh.. check in with social media. But take turns. Dont be that table!
By now you must be wondering whats the story with this black rooster that you see on every Chianti Classico and all over the region. The legend of the Gallo Nero came from medieval times when Siena and Florence decided to settle their territory feud once and for all. Two horseman would leave early in the morning from each city, and when they’ll meet, that spot would serve as the border. But since the Iphone wasnt invented yet, they used the rooster crow as the signal for the start. The Florentine starved their black rooster, while the Sienese fed their white rooster plenty, thinking he’ll wake up early and energized. But it was the black Florentine rooster that woke up too early, starving and crowing, while the white rooster slept well. That meant an early start for the Florentine horseman who got within 12 km of Siena, essentially seizing control of Chianti. Hence the symbol.
After lunch, your options are to head to the nearby hamlet of Volpaia, and/or perhaps skipping the next destination, but I suggest not. Castello di Brolio is yet another stunner. You can participate in more activities and tours, a la Castello di Verrazzano. But for the purpose of this post, we’ll just pay the entrance fee, walk around the castle, enjoy the views, and read about the history. This one feels more subdued and isolated, adding about an hour of travel time overall. You are entitled to a glass of red on your way out, but then you have more driving to do and its getting late. Safety 6th is the motto of Eating With Ziggy Tours.
Our last stop is the ancient Castellina in Chianti, arguably the most picturesque village in the region. You can visit and climb the all important Rocca, and see the unique underground tunnel that is essentially a street today with wine shops. Wine and food is the theme in Castellina. Like the Montalcino of the north. A great place to just hang and people watch. End this journey at Gelateria di Castellina. Not a personal endorsement, but… Gelato + Tuscany = Safe Bet.
Tuscany is a wildly misunderstood region. You hear about it. You read about it. You finally decide to go. But unless you plan carefully, you may just miss it. Its large, very diverse, and it includes some of the most photogenic corners in Europe. But finding these corners requires time, patience, and a Fiat.
I get cranky when a meal doesnt go my way back at home. I tend to get very quiet, and everyone at the table usually knows it at some point no matter how hard I try to hide it. But when it happens o
What is the perfect base? Its not rocket science. Put your destination stars on the map, and pick something in the middle. The only decision is whether it will be a city, a town, village, or something in the countryside like a villa or Agriturismo. You’ll find many advantages and disadvantages with all options. Thats why mixing it up a little works for many.
One of the joys of road tripping in Italy’s countryside for us is listening to the local radio. While we try to catch some Italian tunes that match the mood, we often find catchy American songs that we either never get at our local stations for some reason, or they sound a little different (ie explicit to us). It started years ago when we discovered that Bruno Mars actually wanted to be a Billionaire “So fuckin bad”. Who knew?
Eating With Ziggy 