First meal after a long trip usually feels like a mixed bag, even if the meal goes well. You are reminded of the quality and vastness of the NYC food scene, but at the same time, the cons get more noticeable. The more you travel, especially for food, the more you evaluate and reevaluate service, environment, and value in your own town.
Even small details, like taking away your credit card, instead of bringing the machine to you, suddenly feel like an adjustment. Why is the most developed country (arguably, I know) in the western world seems so stuck sometimes. And why is it suddenly so hard to get a decent meal for under $200 these days. Now we know how tourists feel.
Apologies to the Markette team who might be reading this strange post. Its not you, its me. You actually created a prototypical NYC establishment in a weird location, that still feels fresh somehow. This is not an easy feat in NYC these days. A Caribbean inspired menu utilizing European techniques may just be what NYC didnt know it needed.
Markette opened about a year ago on a block that rarely sees such openings. 7th Ave in Manhattan in Chelsea feels like middle of nowhere, smack in the middle of the city. When was the last time you went there for dinner?
Chef co-owner India Doris created a menu inspired by her Caribbean roots, and it didnt take too long to create a signature dish as showcased on Eater’s Mise en Place, now on Netflix. Oxtail Gratin – braised oxtail topped with fried cheddar polenta is both comforting and distinct tasting. Watching the Eater special makes you appreciate it even more. There was also Dorade which was just as good, thanks to its addictive sauce you can just drink with a straw.
There are also terrific fried Bacalhau balls with a vibrant scotch bonnet aioli. The one knock was that usually I can easily find more dishes that sounded great. But in this case we had to settle for a fried Okra that was flat and oversalted in comparison. The Peri Peri chicken sounded good but got too much negative feedback for my taste. And the $57 lamb seemed a bit too heavy and pricy considering the meal is already heavy (oxtail) and pricy.
The spacious comfortable room, bar, and Carrol the bartender who laughed at all my dad jokes deserve a mention. Markette seems just the type to bring a first date or meet future in-laws. And the drinks are solid. I especially appreciate a place that can make a riff on Paloma better than mine. Markette also operates The Argyle bar downstairs.
Markette is like that country that gave you a positive first impression, a place you will recommend to others, but you just know you will never come back. Its NYC. Life is too short, and some experiences just meant to be one and done. But there’s much to like here, and I would not have written this if I didnt recommend visiting at least once. Go!
Next month I’m turning 50, and this one feels different. It almost feels like I need to make some lifestyle changes, or at least make a list of things I need to accomplish. Do I need to take a pottery class or something? Is there a manual for this? Age is just a number, until its not. At 50, you start remembering hockey player’s dads. At 50, if you go to Toro on Valentine’s Day, everyone around you including the staff will be half your age. At 50, you are the only one at Toro who doesnt get a bread basket. Smart! No bread for you!
Remember that old commercial.. “Stay Fresh a little longer… say goodbye a little longer..”, The actual products dont stick, but the songs often do. If you dont remember this one its probably because, well, it doesnt exist. Its actually a Wrigley Big Red gum commercial that goes “So kiss a little longer…”, and the fresh part was only in my head. But the idea of the commercial is that the gum will keep you fresh longer than normal so you could kiss longer, for some reason. Why would anyone want to do it in public is beyond me. Kissing in public for more than 3 seconds is rare, awkward and should be banned frankly for the safety of the individuals and motorists. You practically asking for herpes. And at home you have Listerine for that.
Much of Santina’s originality is attributed to one item, Cecina. While Santina bills itself as coastal Italian, mainly Liguria and Tuscany, this chickpea pancake is different than anything we had between Genoa and Lucca. Its softer and spongier, but not in a bad way. On recent visits I enjoyed it with tuna infused with Calabrian chili, and avocado thats essentially the best Guacamole within a two mile radius. Once wrapped with the Cecina ‘slice’, you get four tasty snacks. Add the accompanied red sauce to the second or third Cecina for a change of pace and maximum oomphness. The Cecina is reason #365 why you should stop reading 
