Its easy to overlook the capital once you look at the rest of Croatia, but you need to fly home from somewhere. Two nights, one full day is a good amount of time to see the sights, most of which from a compact center. By this stage of the trip, food research fatigue took over. But we still managed to sneak in a good final meal
The main cathedral is striking as expected. As was St Mark’s church and its unique tiled roof. The Museum of Broken Relationship was intriguing but I got bored quickly. Fortunately Mrs Ziggy was as well, so no museum donations were in store for us! I did spend more time in the Dolac market than I’d like to admit. Those European markets just never cease to amaze.
We didnt think we’ll have the time for Mirogoj Cemetery, but we managed. It turned out to be the highlight, especially once I found Drazen Petrovic’s grave (that was a tough one). But the most moving moment came from the scene at Stone Gate. Back in the day a painting of Virgin Mary with baby Jesus survived a devastating fire and major damage to the gate. So an odd looking shrine build inside the gate, where many locals go to pray and light candles.
The best and only meal worthy of mention came from a place called Kod Pere, which happened to be right next door to our apartment (Feels Like Home Apartments). The environment is that of a comfortable, seemingly popular, regular restaurant. But there’s nothing regular about its menu (according to locals). You essentially eat traditional specialties grandma and her family assistants are cooking that day. The Last of this kind I’m told. Everything was done with care and quite delicious, especially the crepes for dessert.
“What, no Seafood?!? No problem, I give you Octopus!” No, I didnt crash a Greek wedding, nor have I actually heard this said before. It was simply the pre-trip imagination at work, anticipating yet another seafood heavy leg. I imagined after 10 fishfull days, we stumble onto a small family Konoba somewhere on the Istrian coast, begging an English speaking baka (a Croatian Babushka) for some meat. But luckily for us, not only we never really got tired of those Adriatic c
1. Hire Jelena Vrancic to show you around. There’s a reason I’m listing this #1. She’s everything a tour guide should be. And you need someone to explain the complexity and history of Diocletian’s Palace. And if you are spending a few nights and love good food, spending time with a local that will direct you to all the cool places is one of the best investments you’ll make
“Leave the coast, and wonderful things start to happen”. A common statement that we heard from many locals, and got to experience all over the Croatia. Not terribly surprising once you realize that much of Croatia’s tourism is tied to its coasts and islands. We are way passed “broken record” territory here in EWZ with this kind of preaching that is so true all over the world. One of the first things I tell new visitors in NYC: Want to eat well? Head to residential neighborhoods. Preferably not the wealthy ones.
Warning: The following post is more about the Show rather than Tell. There are a handful of very strong candidates to write the first post about after this adventure, but I cant think of anything more deserving. Its a rare Location Location Location situation, and not so much about the food. Although there was nothing really wrong with the food. We just didnt give it much of a chance to prove itself beyond the one wonderful course that we thoroughly enjoyed. It could have been the meal of a century, if not perhaps for a group of 40 German tourists occupying the place before us. Leaving us just enough time for a short meal before rushing for another highlight, the famous Zadar sunset.
Eating With Ziggy 