West Village

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – Eat, Pray, Love, Repeat

Posted on January 18, 2023 by Ziggy

Opening a pizzeria in the heart of Manhattan these days requires some major Bombolone. From the West Village location of da Michele alone one can walk to a variety of pizzerias that are ranked with the best of them… Brunetti, Ribalta, Song’ E Napule, John’s of Bleecker Street, just to name a few. These few are mostly of the Neapolitan kind, the result of the new wave of Italian immigrants. Unlike their Sicilian and Neapolitan predecessors who worked with limited ingredients back in the day, the new wave has access to not only ingredients, but the proper pizza oven.

But all the ingredients in the world wont put you on the map if you are missing the main one, a capable Pizzaiolo. Thats always been the main difference between eating in NYC and Rome or Naples, for the most part. We are getting there, if not there already. L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele is the brainchild of Francesco Zimone and Michele Rubini who are expending on the legacy of the original staple in Naples (since 1870). After two visits, needless to say, these two got pizza down to a science, mainly thanks to the all important Pizzaiolos they brought with them.

During my conversation with Michele after my first meal, I learned that these guys are no stranger to the ultra competitive NY pizza scene. More importantly perhaps they are well aware of what it takes to run a successful pizzerie in Naples, in accordance with Verace Pizza Napoletana Association which Michele Rubini is certified with. The Naples location is also famous for being featured in Julia Roberts’ Eat, Pray, Love. It has received so many accolades over the years, it has no more room on its door. Shame you wont see a “Ziggy Approved” sticker anytime soon.

Simply put, this is as good as pizza gets in NYC. The pies are larger than the typical Neapolitan found all over the city. I wrongly assumed they increase the size to please Americans, but Michele told me thats the size in Naples as well. The base is soft, light and perfectly charred. And the ingredients gel together beautifully. There’s a double cheese option for some reason, but not worth the risk of losing a perfectly balanced Fior Di Latte, Pecorino, tomato sauce combo.

Its important to keep it simple with the delicate Neapolitans, and always go with the Margherita, but I cant help but get the Diavola every time I see it. Here its superb, and the spicy salami is actually spicy. The Pesto is the only white one I tried, and its not too shabby either. Two pies can easily feed a hungry three, but not quite 4, unless you order other items. Its a fairly full menu for a pizza joint, and it will get fuller with burgers, fish and steak soon. The multi-room space is fairly spacious, with a long bar, and a third room downstairs that isnt quite ready. Its the most ambitious pizzeria that ever opened in NYC. So far so delicious.

L’antica Pizzeria da Michele
81 Greenwich Ave (West Village)

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: food, L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele NYC, NYC pizza, NYC restaurants, restaurants | Leave a comment

Jeju Noodle Bar – Fortune Favors the Brave

Posted on January 13, 2023 by Ziggy

2019 seems like centuries ago. Anything before Covid is now foggy, ancient memory. We often use “pre-pandemic” to describe certain trends and personal habits. For example before the pandemic I would only have Negronis in restaurants like Jeju Noodle Bar. Nowadays its just another Wednesday at Ziggy’s new and improved bar. We drink more at home, and spend more eating out. A full meal at a full service restaurant used to cost on average $150 for two not too long ago. These days its more like $180. Pre-Covid Jeju Noodle Bar was one of the best deals in town as I wrote in 2018. For $45 per person you got a 6 courser for the ages way back then. Then, a nasty virus struck. Michelin!

Michelin of course has its many pros. I just cant think of any at the moment ;). Oh ye, I reckon it’s a great achievement for the establishment, the ultimate accolade really. It often attracts more business, albeit a new, more demanding customer base. It definitely inspire those seeking stars, and keeps the starred chefs on guard. But the cons are too many to list here. One of which is that as a customer, you may pay dearly for the said inspiration and honor.

This is not so much a complaint, but a cool transformation story. As much as I would prefer the old Jeju, I’m genuinely happy for these guys. They reaped the rewards of smart and even brave moves early on, and created a formula that works for many. It was one of a kind back then, and even with the changes, one of a kind today. A Michelin starred semi fancy noodle joint. But its hard to ignore some of the changes, like the star dish Toro Ssam that was included in the original $45 tasting menu, is now a $55 caviar-ed triumph in itself. And the two piece fried chicken app that now includes caviar as well, comes with a $29 sticker shock.

These differences are mainly reflected in its smaller dishes. While its a “Noodle Bar” that specializes in Ramyun, Korean style Ramen, its smaller dishes are its strength and the main reason for the Michelin star. In fact it wouldnt be so wrong to only order appetizers at Jeju, and it would be a mistake to order a filling Ramyun for each person. And then you have the seemingly rotating two dry noodle dishes that are not shown on the main site menu. Last time there was an intense lobster pasta (Gajae-Myun) drenched with a fishy (in a good way) Sauce Americaine, and lobster emulsion. Its like a the pasta version of a sick lobster bisque.

The good news is that many of the small dishes are very shareable, even for four people. Take the half rack pork ribs. Plentiful, fall of the bone, and sauced to sweet and spicy perfection. But I wouldnt expect less for $30. I did expect less from the Gochujang Bokum with a comparably shocking tag of $13. But what I got was elevated comfort food in the form of beef ragu over rice topped with potato crisps, featuring flavors as explosive as the volcanos on Jeju island. The Amberjack, one of three raw fish dishes on the menu is probably the only skippable item we ever tasted here. The delicate Amberjack just got lost for me between all the sauces.

Articles, poems, and children books have been written about the Toro Ssam Bap over the years (eg “Ssam I am”, “Goodnight Toro Ssam”). I believe I even included it in one of my annual, not so anymore, Best Dishes of the year. I will probably resume it this year and pay more attention. The layers of rice, scrambled eggs, fatty tuna, and now Golden Osetra Caviar manufacture an umami filled spoonful. Or make it a freakishly good taco with the accompanied seaweed. Despite the price tag, its an absolute must signature, and such a great complement to the menu.

Its the only “Ramen” place where I would recommend to share one, or maybe even skip altogether. They are solid and worth trying, but just not as life changing as the smaller items. The often mentioned Wagyu Ramyun isnt as big of an upgrade as the price suggests ($45 vs mostly low $20’s). The high quality Wagyu brisket inside the delicious broth is good but not quite as outstanding as one would expect from Wagyu meat. The pork bone based Gochu, and the family Ramyun are well balanced, milky, and just rich enough. Sometimes Tonkotsu ramen can get too rich for my taste.

Wine list is fine. Beautiful decor, though less than ideal comfort levels if you get tables with benches instead of chairs. In the winter time, these benches dont work so well as there’s nowhere to put your coat or hang your man purse. Never sacrifice comfort for aesthetics, kids. Oddly no dessert, another change from the good ole days! Jeju is still a solid inclusion on the coveted Z-List, that some may argue more beneficial for consumers than Michelin stars. Go!

Jeju Noodle Bar
679 Greenwich St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: Ribs, Gochujang Bokum, Toro Ssam, Gajae-Myun, Gochu Ramyun

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: food, Jeju Noodle Bar, Jeju Noodle Bar NYC, NYC restaurants, restaurants | Leave a comment

5 Underrated Italian

Posted on September 14, 2022 by Ziggy

In NYC of course. This is not a Puglia blog yet as the last three posts suggest, although much more on Puglia coming soon. I’ve been living in NYC for 36 years now, and I dont remember a more exciting time for Italian dining. Even though The prices are moving in the opposite direction. A full meal at a mid price, full service restaurant now averages $175 for two (source: EWZ Stats), up from $150 not too long ago. But the competitive environment has never seen levels like these before. A glut of new Italian immigrants has turned the Italian scene upside down where Italian/Italian is the new American/Italian especially in Manhattan and north Brooklyn. Cacio e Pepe is the new Chicken Alfredo, and Neapolitan pizza joints are opening at faster pace than NY style it seems. Its a pizza revolution of sorts, although a complete pizza transition wont happen in my lifetime.

The title of this post is oxymoronic in a way since there are literally 100’s of underrated Italian in NYC today. But I’ll focus on five places that are much easier to reserve (unlike Don Angie, Lilia, Ci Siamo, Rezdora, and so many), and may bring you similar levels of joy.

Dell’anima (Hell’s Kitchen) – The easiest pick of the bunch. Best Italian in Hell’s Kitchen historically has been a mystery, just like the glut of Thai restaurants in HK. Mercato held that claim for some time IMO, but ever since Dell’anima moved to Gotham West Market (conquered really as there’s not much left there these days. Even Ivan Ramen is no more) it established itself as the one to beat. While tourists continue to flock to places like Becco for the quantity, locals line up chef Andrew’s counter for the quality. I dont recall ever having a less than stellar dish here. You cant go wrong with menu staples like Tajarin Alla Carbonara, and Pollo al Diavolo, but I wouldnt hesitate ordering new additions and specials. The location, and being inside a food hall of course has something to do with the underrated tag.

Ulivo (NoMad) – Talking about Mercato, long time readers should not be surprised to see it’s little sister here. With that said, somehow Ulivo managed to outgrow it’s sister, and establish itself as a solid choice in an extremely competitive area. That’s partly due to the talents of Sardinian born Emanuel Concas who figured out the right formula after years at Mercato and six years now at Ulivo. What you get is top notch ingredients, solid pizza, and a plethora of fresh pasta dishes, their bread and butter. You’ll find some hard to find Sardinian and Sicilian autocorrect specialties like Malloreddus with sausage ragu, and the simple but outstanding Busiate with almonds, fresh tomato, basil and garlic. No Secondis here. Instead, order another drink from the award winning bartender.

Faro (Bushwick) – This is another no brainer. A Michelin star recipient (yay Michelin!) only to lose it a few years later (oh who cares about Michelin!). Faro is being too modest when it bills itself as a simple neighborhood Italian. Neighborhood Italian dont do Cappelletti stuffed with sweet corn purée, topped with a slow cooked short rib ragu. I could have just ended the previous sentence after Cappelletti. This is one example of a rotating, masterfully executed seasonal pastas. I believe only the Bucatini with confit chicken has been on the menu longer than a year. And they ought to bring the sick Gnocchi Alla Romana back. Its more of a destination Italian. The problem with Faro is the most likely reason its on this list. Its kind of Faro, as in deep in the heart of Bushwick. But Bushwick, thanks to the growing list of mega clubs like Avant Gardner is slowly becoming a nightlife mecca.

Popina (Columbia Street Waterfront District) – It was fun seeing Popina grow over the years, and somehow remain true to itself. On my first visit. I expected the short menu to change and expand at some point to accommodate the masses, but thankfully it never did. Chris Mcdade’s stints with places like Maialino and Marta, his southern roots, and unconditional love for anchovies help create a fun, concentrated menu. Items rotate frequently but if they ever remove the signature spicy Chicken Milanese, expect local strikes. On a recent visit one particular Monkfish dish really showcased the tiny kitchen’s range. The team is opening Gus’s Chop House in nearby Carroll Gardens, sort of a gastropub.

Song’E Napule (Greenwich Village) – You can skim through 120 best pizza in NYC lists and you wont find anyone singing the praises of Song’E Napule. You will need to look at an Italian publication like Gambero Rosso which we probably should be doing anyway when it comes to pizza. The name has nothing to do with singing. It just means “from Napoli” in Neapolitan dialect. But if you are a fan of the Neapolitan style you’ll be belting out romantic tunes to your neighbor, Napoli great Diego Maradona on the wall. Legit oven, proper ingredients, and a capable pizzaiolo results in light and airy awesomeness. As genuine as it gets in NYC.

Categories: Brooklyn, Gramercy, Flatiron, Midtown West, New York City, West Village | Tags: Dell'anima, Faro, food, NYC restaurants, Popina, restaurants, SongE Napule, Travel, Ulivo | 3 Comments

Berber Street Food – By Mother of Dragons

Posted on April 24, 2019 by Ziggy

Berber Stree Food - Berber Feast Now that I got your attention…

The story is all too familiar, but the outcome in this case has a GOT type twist. Girl starts working as a waitress at some of our higher ends. She then graduates from the French Culinary Institute, before working at names like Gramercy Tavern, Per Se, Daniel. She then leaves to travel around the world to collect more inspiration before opening her first establishment. The girl becomes chef.

But the big twist in this story is in the type of establishment. Every time I sit in one of the four tables at tiny Berber Street Food in West Village, I wonder if there’s another place remotely like it in NYC. “Afro-fusion” is one way to describe it, but in order to understand what it means one needs to have a few meals here and meet Diana. She is as fierce, and confident as they come, with unrivaled talent and passion to boot. As the New Yorker put it, Diana “has the West Village wrapped around her finger”

Berber Stree Food

This is not the case where I was blown away by the first bite. The Jerk wings had this familiar and pleasant fruity tone, but not quite as sharp or spicy as the Caribbean style jerk I’m accustomed to. Dont get me wrong here. I smothered these babies, licked every finger, and didnt wash my hands that afternoon, or evening. I just wasnt in a rush to come back, but oh so glad I did.

The love affair started with visit #2 when I had a bowl of rice, Black Eye Peas, seasonal green beans, and jerk chicken that came in a stew-like form this time. It had this addictive sweetness, and spicy enough to leave a nice tingle. Although if you want more spice, the intense Habanero sauce that accommodates the dish (if not, ask) will do. Enjoy it with the terrific homemade Ginger Lemongrass juice. Although on another visit the scent of the Morrocan mint tea next to me was hypnotizing.

But the dish to get here might be the Djolof Fried Rice with chicken. It may just rival the best Biryani you ever had and then some. The same chicken is used as a wrap in the Shawarma sandwich. Plenty of Middle Eastern dishes here due to the North Adrican connection. There’s also Koftas, Moorish Kebabs, and her own falafel interpretation on the menu. Diana is like Einat Admony reborn in a way.

Berber Stree Food - Pudding

Every time I come here I see the team grow a little bit. Yesterday the cook (not Diana) felt especially generous with the “Berber Feast”, slowly roasted chopped leg of lamb that is marinated for a few days with Harissa and cumin. You get more Harissa on the side, along with other spreads, a couple of nifty salads, and couscous. A taste of a Berber (North Africa ethnic group. Diana’s father side) wedding feast where they serve whole pigs as such. This has potential as a house specialty. On another day Diana was experimenting with an off menu North African pudding that tasted like something you may get at one of her old employers, like Per Se.

Half a block away, visitors from around the world, flock to Joe’s for its above average NY slice (I get mine at Sacco and elsewhere). While at Berber, you’ll find returning locals including students going for the cheap bowls and sandwiches to go. Berber is slowly becoming a little local hangout, where Diana knows everyone and you end up making new friends. This is possibly the best thing to pop in West Village in years. Berber Stree Food - Wings

Berber Stree Food - Chicken Bowl Berber Stree Food - Djolof Fried Rice

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: Afrofusion, Berber Street Food, food, Travel, West Village dining | Leave a comment

Kish Kash – The Village Couscouseria

Posted on December 22, 2018 by Ziggy

Kish Kash - Chraime When is a concept, not really a concept. Or doesnt feel like one. If you walk inside Kish Kash in West Village without knowing anything about it, it may feel like just another casual restaurant serving food that my be even too familiar. But once you read about it you can see that this is not your ordinary kitchen. Its the only place in NYC that makes couscous the way it was made 300 years ago. Couscous made with a lot of love that accumulated over the years by chef Einat Admony (Balaboosta, Taim).

Couscous is the side dish most used in my house because its the easiest to make. Kish Kash refers to the Sieve traditionally used to make Couscous by hand, a process that takes hours. As far as I know, Admony is the only one doing it in NYC. They dont even do this in Morocco anymore.

But what is the real concept here for the average eater who most likely wont notice the difference. While its definitely a fluffier, better tasting product, once combined with the terrific Mafrum (spiced ground beef meat balls with tomato sauce) or any of the other items on the menu, the flavor gap narrows and it may taste like any other couscous after a few bites.

Kish Kash

The real concept to me is the place and the rest of the menu. A well designed bright, inviting space serving quick, homey Israeli/North African dishes like the mentioned Mafrum which might be the thing to get. Or the Chraime, a whitefish, Branzino in this case, topped with tangy tomato sauce. All dishes come with the house Couscous of course and homemade Harissa you can add once you get bored. That combination, whether with meat or fish, results in a very satisfying forkful.

While I would still opt for this couscous given the option, the dishes would work with instant couscous or maybe even with something else. You can make the meal as quick or long as you want. There are starters like the legit looking hummus. And since you are at an Admony house, by law you must try the cauliflower that comes ladened with Tahini, pines nuts, and raisins. There’s Israeli wine and beer of course, but no Malt “Black Beer” for those truly missing Tel Aviv.

Kish Kash
455 Hudson St (Barrow/Morton), West Village
Rating: 2 Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: Mafrum, Chraime, Cauliflower

Kish Kash Cauliflower

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: Couscous, food, Kish Kash, Kish Kash NYC, Travel | Leave a comment

Jeju’s Six Courser May be the Best Deal in Town

Posted on December 17, 2018 by Ziggy

Ok, so now that I got your attention I will tell you the truth. Jeju Noodle Bar’s deal is most likely not the best deal in town. Not even close. There’s a guy in Sunset park’s Chinatown that makes delicious steamed rice noodles for a buck fifty. You can get an entire meal at the new Momofuku Bang Bar for less then six. There’s a 2-for-1 groin massage plus flu shot special every other Friday in Brighton Beach. Its New York City. There are hundreds of great deals out there.

But Jeju’s Six Courser is unlike anything I’ve had in NYC, and something I would like to repeat. Like very soon. The set menu was introduced about three months ago, just in time for me to rediscover this gem in West Village. the set menu is unconventional and the perfect fit for our sharing style. Instead of being your average tasting menu that features small dishes, some not on the menu, it showcases the menu highlights at a lower price when combined. It costs $45 per person.

Jeju Noodle Bar

Jeju is like the Cote (Korean BBQ) of Korean noodle joints. I’m sure many balk at the idea of a Ramen like noodle bar in a fancier environment, but the concept is not much different than that of a Momofuku Noodle Bar. At the helm is a man with an impressive resume. If we would play Fantasy Michelin Stars (and we should) he would have been a first round pick. Its almost like Jeju’s brand new Michelin star is an afterthought at this point. But the recent change to get rid of reservations altogether made Jeju more approachable (are you reading Missy Robbins?). The current set menu:

Roasted Mushrooms – The best compliment I can give to a mushroom dish is that Mrs Z, a Mushroom hater, coming from a long line of mushroom haters, ate and liked this.

Jeju Noodle Bar - Mushrooms

Jeju Chicken Wings – Simple yet your typical (in a good way) expensive light battered fried chicken with a dip you want to dip your car keys in. But you cant. Because its keyless entry now.

Jeju Noodle Bar - Chicken

Toro Ssam Bap – This was incredible. Layers of fatty tuna, scrambled eggs and Tobiko (fish roe) rice. Nori on the side to help you make the sickest spicy tuna rolls you’ll ever have.

Jeju Noodle Bar - Tuna

Prime Ribeye Ssam – Anything over 4 courses in NYC usually means a “tasting menu” where the meat course consists of a few slices of high end beef. Here you have 12 oz of perfectly cooked sliced ribeye (they dont ask you how you want it cooked – a good thing). You can eat it as is or dip in their own nutty Romesco sauce which they should bottle and give away as party favors at the end of the night. It should go well with scrambled eggs.

Gochu Ramyun – There are so many Ramen variations in the city that its hard to understand the difference between Korean Ramyun and Japanese Ramen. This pork broth carried some serious depth, and is essentially like the best Tonkotsu you will ever eat.

Jeju Noodle Bar - Ramyun

Dessert Course – Your choice of Ice cream or Sorbet. We had both, like together at some point. While forgettable compared to the rest of the meal, this was a solid finisher. This is a GO!

Jeju Noodle Bar
679 Greenwich St (Christopher), West Village
Rating: 2.5 Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: 6 course menu

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: Best Korean in NYC, food, Jeju Noodle Bar, Jeju Noodle Bar NYC, Travel, West Village dining | 2 Comments

Via Carota – The Road More Traveled

Posted on March 18, 2017 by Ziggy

Via Carota Funghi

December 30th, 2018 Update:

Happy New Year!

How did Via Carota become the most perfect restaurant in nyc? Very simple. They stick to their guns and they deliver. Their menu hasn’t changed much over the years and may even seem boring to some. But its well balanced, and the execution is consistently flawless. It slowly developed into one of my safest recommendations. And the fact that they don’t take reservations made it into an approachable but busy neighborhood darling. Otherwise it could easily turn into another Lilia.

It’s almost fitting that it’s signature dish is something so widely available below 14th, the Cacio e Pepe. It’s amazing how such a simple dish can generate this level of craving. I get asked about it often on my tours. To avoid World War Z last time with the family, I ordered two of them. But for a while it looked like the signature might be the beefy Svizzerina, a lightly seared bunless burger. Its delicious, and may be the most unique item on the menu. But you will want to eat it quickly, before the outer sear cools off.

Other recent highlights include a moister the moist zesty chicken. A perfectly cooked Skate wing with brown butter and capers (seems like all skates are cooked this way but I can’t complain). Succulent Arancini with just enough porky ‘nduja to satisfy the palate. And a Brussels Sprouts salad that will make you like Brussels Sprouts. This Carrot Road, that seems to have no potholes, earns a third star.

March 18, 2017 Post:

When I’m wrong, I’m wrong. When I make a mistake, its usually a big one. After all, I am human, and I need to be loved just like everyone else (as the great Morrisey once put it). Its a rarity for me to come back to a place I didnt love initially, and thankfully it was only a year in this case. Thanks to the power of social media, and foodies whose opinions speak much more volume than the rest of the media, we can now make New York Italian great again.

Another rarity: I’m writing about a place I’ve only dined at solo. When an Italian restaurant with this caliber opens in NYC offering the same great menu all day long, one needs to take advantage during the day. One of the biggest differences between eating in Italy and the US is the disparity between lunches. In Italy, lunch is taken almost as seriously as dinner and in many cases there are no separate menus between lunch and dinner. Since I eat mostly out during lunch, you get extra brownie points for this kind of menu.

But something tells me Rita Sodi and Jody Williams know a lot more about Brownies than I do. Even prior to this at I Sodi and Buvette, they proved they can flat out cook. Mario Batali is a fan. At Via Catota they created the type of corner eatery where you meet your friend for lunch after a long trip in Thailand. The initial hype stemmed from the names involved, was probably unfair for a place like this, but many Villagers took advantage early on. Today, dont be surprised to see the place full during lunch. Via Carota Cacio e Pepe

Its worth coming back here just for the Funghi. I love a good Mushroom dish, but very rarely I get a dish that speaks to me in this kind of language, Yiddish. Oyster, Maitake, Trumpet and one more I didn’t recognize perfectly grilled with all that wonderful earthiness, on top of smoked grilled Scamorza, with shallot, garlic, and olive oil vinaigrette. A mishegas combination that works oh so beautifully. It could be NYC’s mushroom dish to beat.

Yesterday the Rabbit tasted like a mighty fine fried chicken, with wonderful herby notes throughout. Nicely done, but with the caveat that it may taste very much like chicken when its fried like that. The Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe here is as legit as it gets west of Rome. I preferred it over the popular Pappardelle with wild boar ragu which tasted very average to me on the first visit. Another interesting dish is the fagioli all’ucceletto, a tomatoee stew of beans and sausages. Via Carota Rabbit

The rest of the menu is a a vegetarian delight, ranging from the very Tuscan Ribolita to what seems like “best of market” veggies. Regulars pay attention to the rotating array of specials which doesnt leave much room for menu criticism (pasta offerings may seem light at first glance). The most famous dish here is perhaps the Svizzerina, a cross between steak tartare and a rare bunless burger. Will be back with family or friends to this one sooner than later

Via Carota
51 Grove St
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Funghi, Rabbit, Tonnarelli, Fagioli, Svizzerina, Chicken, Arancini, Brussels Sprouts

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: Best Italian in NYC, food, Travel, Via Carota, Via Carota NYC, West Village Italian | 6 Comments

Babbo – The Taj Mahal of NYC Italian

Posted on March 26, 2016 by Ziggy

To fully appreciate Babbo, one should arrive 15 minutes early. Stand outside, check out the menu listed that includes today’s specials, and pretend that you are waiting for someone. But more importantly, check out the people arriving. There will be the boring arrivals – the locals and those who have eaten at Babbo before. And then there are those with that special sparkle in their eyes. The same sparkle you get when you finally reach Machu Picchu. I saw a grandma with her well dressed family, pausing in front of the sign, exhale a huge sigh, followed by a smile (unless it was gas). I watched a family of four taking their time, taking it all in, with a particularly thrilled dad who asked me to take a picture of the happy with family. I happily obliged, and charged them $20 (the Times Square Elmo going rate at the moment). The only time I’ve seen this type of foodie pilgrimage in NYC was the last time I waited for a slice at Di Fara. There’s always something special about visiting a place that means so much more to other visitors. Much like visiting the great churches of Europe, or the Taj Mahal

Babbo Ristorante is Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich first out of many ventures, opened in 1998. One of the most celebrated Italian restaurants in NYC history, still going very strong even with an ageless menu. Not many realize that Batali’s first was not Babbo, but a partnership at Pó, also in West Village, 5 years earlier. Outside Babbo looks like just another neighborhood Trattoria, oddly situated on a quiet residential part of Waverly Place (may mean something to the 16 and under, unless they are like my kids who’ve been to Taim Falafel too many times). Talking about Waverly Place kids, there were surprisingly quite a few on this particular night, some even arriving with their American Doll lookalikes. The irony here comes after a tweet the other day where someone asked Batali if he would be willing to open a predominately kid friendly establishment. In which he replied, kids are more than welcomed in any of his establishments already, and that he wouldnt want to alienate adults. After all, we are talking about Italian, the granddaddy of kid friendly cuisine.

The transformation from Babbo outside to inside, is like that of a Minetta Tavern, a time machine. Buzzy atmosphere, full bar, best of Batali ipod blasting in the background, and a VERY full staff. Some looked busy, while some could have easily gone on a late afternoon siesta, even with the full house. This is to me the one major difference between eating in the US and Italy. The traffic around you is undeniable, which is why louder than usual music is required sometimes. Not so much a complaint, but an observation. When you score the friendliest waiter in the city of New York as we did on this night, complaints become observations. On to the food….

Grilled Octopus with “Borlotti Marinati” and Spicy Limoncello Vinaigrette – Although it was somewhat unevenly cooked the last time, it was still good enough to not share one between four octopus loving freaks. “Two Octopuses please”. This time perfectly cooked, with a nice snap, and tenderness all around. The tangy Vinaigrette, and the Borloti, aka Cranberry, aka Pinto and Cannellini had a baby beans, just add to the joy.

Pig Foot “Milanese” with Rice Beans and Arugula – Once in a while, not too often, I bump into one of those “I dont get it” dishes. Its a popular staple on the menu, but I just dont get it. It tasted like a potato latke gone wild. The one that Jewish mothers throw out because it didnt come out as the other potato latkes. Stringy, gelatiny, fried, and very flat cutlet, with a surprisingly flat flavor profile. The only miss of the night.

Beef Cheek Ravioli with Crushed Squab Liver and Black Truffles – Great dish, and by far Mrs Ziggy’s fave. If you feel any affection toward chicken liver this dish is especially for you. Here its much about the sauce making its best Marsala interpretation, but with Squab liver mixed in with mushrooms, adding more richness to the buttery beef cheeks pureed inside the triangular ravioli

Black Spaghetti with Rock Shrimp, Spicy Salami Calabrese and Green Chilies (top)- Another menu staple that I’ve had before. Its a fairly dry pasta, but packed with flavor and txture. The squid ink Spaghetti has that nice sweet heaviness to it, with that crunchy salami, shrimp, and occasional garlic, like the gift that keeps on giving. This is one of those dishes that makes you Google recipes when you get home.

Mint Love Letters with Spicy Lamb Sausage – Like a love letter from the Mario to Ziggy. “Dear Ziggy, in honor of your unconditional support and love for Eataly, Lupa, Po, and other establishments I’ve been involved with over the years, I’m sending you these refreshing, delectable ravioli filled with peas, mint, and cheese, topped with spicy sausage tomato ragu. As you can see, the mint and the sausage, compliment nicely, and dont overwhelm… unlike your wallet by Eataly’s Venchi chocolates. Seriously, I know you are obsessed with Piedmont chocolates, but look at you. Time to give it a rest. And please please shave next time you come to Babbo. Its a Ristorante, not a trattoria so show some respect. Idiot! Love, Mario”

Barbecued Skirt Steak with Endive “alla Piastra” and Salsa Verde – Just a perfectly cooked, and marinated Skirt, sliced and arranged Jenga style, on top of an ultra thick salsa verde. A very respectable meat dish

Rabbit with Honey-Glazed Baby Carrots, Peas and Salsa Verde – I normally dont have high expectations from Secondis in Italian, no matter where I go as they rarely satisfy as much as the primis and the rest of the menu. But here they are given proper treatment, starting with this sweet, flavor packed rabbit

Dessert – A fine chocolate cake, and a finer Semifreddo. Another great meal at Babbo, a Z-List staple for ~~hopefully~~ many years to come

Babbo
110 Waverly Pl
$$$$
Recommended Dishes: Octopus, Mint Love Letters, Beef Cheek Ravioli, Black Spaghetti, Skirt, Rabbit, Semifreddo

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: Babbo, Babbo NYC, Babbo Ristorante, food, Italian West Village, restaurants, Travel | 3 Comments

The NYC Trip Report that Left Me Speechless

Posted on August 13, 2015 by Ziggy

And starving. Like, literally starving to death. There was a point where I realized that the safest time to read Aynat’s (Trip Advisor handle) daily accounts of her NY adventure is between 6 and 6:45, before my stomach wakes up from its beauty rest. This was not Aynat’s first trip to NYC, and she already logged countless of great meals under her belt. But this time it became apparent after day two (out of 27) that included a marathon meal at Ko (the best marathon there is), that Aynat picked up her game to almost unreachable levels. From my vantage point (living room, transferring to kitchen soon) this is the Michael Jordan of trip reports. The basketball player, not the chef. Although the chef is pretty darn good too (miss Rosemary’s in Vegas dearly).

I read trip reports on various boards like Chowhound and Trip Advisor on occasion, and it usually doesn’t take long to get a sense of the due diligence involved. Aynat on the other hand, essentially has redefined food research, and is probably already planning her next trip to NYC (best medicine to post vacation blues.. Alcohol. Second best.. rebook). This was 27 days of eating bliss and blissful eating. After her trip was over, I figured it would be criminal not to write something about this on EWZ, but the challenge was how. So I asked Aynat to compile a list of her favorite dishes of the trip and here are the results. Top 20 dishes (comments are mine) with pictures whenever I could find them

Momofuku Ko – Chef’s Multi Course Tasting Menu. Its impossible to pick one dish from this 18 dish ecstasy. Its like asking Evander Holyfield which Illegitimate child is his favorite. Perhaps the best eating experience NYC has to offer at the momeny

Bowery Meat Company – Bowery Steak with Salsa Verde, Whipped Potato. The ribeye cap, arguably the cows most delicious part is rolled into this hockey puck of dreams. One of the most delicious steaks I ever ate. Aynat agrees.

Marta – Carbonara Pizza with Potato, Guanciale, Black Pepper and Egg. I’ve watched Nick Anderer try to perfect this Roman beaut over the first few months, until he settled on arguably the best white pie NY has to offer. Aynat also liked the Rabbit meatballs very much.

Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Bistro – Oxtail Fried Rice with daikon, Shiitake & Bone marrow. Aynat hesitated at first with this one. “Why is he suggesting Fried Rice, in a hotel no less.” Easily made the top dishes mark, along with the brilliantly simple sautéed squid (Ika shuga)

The Marshal – Wood Oven Roasted Meatloaf stuffed with Mozzarella, Squash Carrots and Kale. Sometimes a man just wants to eat meatloaf. Apparently same rules apply for women. One of Hell’s Kitchen’s hidden gems, dishing out proper farm to belly American classics.

Annisa – Barbecue Squid with Thai Basil and Fresh Peanuts (top picture). Aynat asked me about some of my favorite squid/octopus dishes in town and I directed her to one of Anita Lo’s best sellers. Needless to say she liked it.

Ivan Ramen – Pork Meatballs with Buttermilk Dressing, Bulldog Sauce, Bonito. Perhaps it’s the hypnotizing dancing bonito flakes, the tangy Bulldog sauce, or those tender juicy meatballs. Whatever that is, hope this LES Ivan branch keeps it on the menu for a while.

Alta – Shrimp and Chorizo Skewer with Avocado, Garlic and Sherry Vinegar. Another winner at this old tapas staple. Aynat also praised the Brussel Sprouts with apple, Creme Fraiche and pistachios. The dish that essentially made us start cook Brussel sprouts. And many chefs around town followed.

Balaboosta – Crispy Cauliflower With Lemon, Currants and Pine Nuts. It’s not an Israeli meal without a cauliflower dish. (Hmmm, I knew something was missing from my meal in LA last night). This is one Balaboosta must

Nougatine at Jean Georges – Fried Calamari with Basil Salt and Citrus Chilli Dip. Never been to Nougatine so never had it. But I can just taste it…

Root and Bone – Crispy Free Range Fried Chicken, Tea Brined and Lemon Dusted. Perhaps the NYC fried chicken to beat, along with Ma Peche’s Habanero infused bird. The brine and the magic dusting gives it a deeper, lasting flavor. Aynat also really admired the Charred Asparagus with Fire Roasted Tomatoes and Crunchy Peanuts. And talking about deeper and lasting, Root and Bone apparently means something else entirely down under (where half of the owners are from. Coincidence?)

Santina – Guanciale e Pepe. Aynat also hit some of the new kids on the block, and enjoyed Santina’s Cecina as well. I’ve personally been to Santina three times now, so ye.. I’m a fan too.

Rounding the top 20…

The NoMad Restaurant – Suckling Pig with Ramps, Potatoes and Salsa Verde. Been twice, never had it

ABC Cocina – Spring Pea Guacamole with Warm Tortillas

Timna -Lamb Saddle with Persian Lemon Dust, Black Garlic Mousse, English Pea Purée. Along with Fried Cauliflower (doh!) with Homemade Labane, Curried Tahini and Sumac. Top of my to do list

Inti – Ceviche Mixto. Love this dish. They make great ceviche here

Mercato – Gnocchi in Beef and Pork Ragu. Havent had this in a while and got tomorrow free. m..u..s..t r..e..s..i..s..t…

Kati Roll Company – Unda chicken roll. Never had it.

Gazala’s – Sun dried tomato Bourekas with Hummus, salad and olives. Still best hummus in town

Ample Hills Creamery – Salted Crack Caramel. Seriously addictive ice cream (like seriously!) . Aynat also gives major props to the Sullivan Street Bakery Bomboloni and Amorino gelato.

So there you have it. There were many other great dishes Aynat enjoyed in this one, but these are the highlights. This is a great starting point for those researching their next trip. Thanks Aynat for this glorious report

Categories: East Village, Lower East Side, Midtown West, New York City, West Village | Tags: Best restaurants in NYC, food, Top Dishes NYC, Travel | 3 Comments

Bar Pitti – The Confucius of NYC Dining

Posted on July 28, 2015 by Ziggy

Everything has its beauty, but not everyone sees it – Confucius

The legend of Confucius is so legendary that in modern times he is often compared to Jesus. Both men were great thinkers and preachers whose believes written down well after their death. Confucius, much like Jesus is viewed as a religeous figure. Except that.. he wasnt really. He was a teacher and a great philosopher, but not so much a preacher. Confucius, as the name implies… a misunderstood figure. Even some of his philosophies are either misunderstood or misapplied

Ignorance is the night of the mind, but a night without moon and star – Confucius

Just like great thinkers like Confucius and Donald Trump, I feel that Bar Pitti is misunderstood. Perhaps the most misunderstood restaurant in NYC. If you are to visit NYC and read reviews about this place on Yelp, chances are that you will likely pass on it. Which is fine I suppose. There are plenty of Branzini in the sea. What you will read is mostly about service. “I did not get the special board right away”, “The board was too confusing and heavy”, “The wait staff is hurried and rude”, “We were hurried”. “The owner walks around like he owns the place” I can go on and on. You can read about it yourself.

When you hit the wall, it will hurt for a few days – Ziggy

But the truth of the matter is, Bar Pitti is just about as Italian as it gets in NYC. The owner and the entire staff are Italian. The chalk board is in Italian. Everyone speaks Italian. And if you ever set foot in a true Italian Trattoria in Italy (not Staten Island) you may have noticed the contrast. Italians are more direct. Just like the rest of the world, they dont work for tips. The “wait staff” is not there to “serve” you. It may be the owner, the sister, the cousin that takes your order, brings you the food, and helps you select the wine. But the biggest difference the way I see it, is that the number of workers in a typical Italian restaurant in NYC far outnumber a similarly sized Italian Trattoria in Italy. In another words, they work their ass off. That work ethic translates to “Hurried” by some here. The directness and the language barrier may translate to rudeness. Their policies (like cash only) are… well.. their policies. Its all in the open. If you choose to eat their anyway, you dont have the right to complaint. Its like saying “This Pizza place sucks because they dont sell slices. Only whole pies. AVOID!”

Some girls are bigger than others. Some girls mothers are bigger than other girls mothers – Morrissey

You know who doesnt think there are service issues at Bar Pitti? NY celebrities. Bar Pitti is one of those NY celebrity magnets. Which also means good looking people lining up the sidewalk waiting for a table. Its a places to see and be seen, partly due to that wide sidewalk and prime West Village real estate. Jake Gyllenhaal was in the next room while we dined there the other night, joining a slew of celebrities dining there at some point. Bar Pitti is also one of the only restaurants in its class that has no website. Reservations for four and over are taken like in Italy, the old fashion way… via conversation. which means you can score a table even on a busy Saturday night. Want to stay for a while? Keep ordering. This is not a place to linger, unless you are Jake Gyllenhaal

You can observe a lot just by watching – Yoggi Berra

Yoggi Berra is talking about the specials board at Bar Pitti. That’s where the action is. Starting with the great Pappardelle Rabbit ragu or whatever meat ragu, and ending with the Taglierini with summer Black Truffles. One of the only NYC places offering black truffles the entire summer. The Burrata is another strong board option, and so is the Veal Milanese. This place will also make you question your ban on creamy dishes, starting with the Pappardelle Alla Fiesolana, perhaps the most popular dish of the house. For mushroom lovers, the oyster mushroom app is an absolute must.

Bar Pitti is old school at its best. And I pity the fool who passes on it

Bar Pitti
268 Ave of the Americas
$$$ (cash only)