I dont know why I havent written a post on Anton’s before. Well, I sort of know. I may have added it to the world famous Z-List (I was told by people from various countries) before Anton’s even opened. You see, I’ve been following Nick Anderer ever since I met him at a Gabriele Bonci / Katie Parla pizza event in Brooklyn years ago. He called the police on me twice but eventually just got used to it. Another rehashed joke. I know. I’ll be here all week, try the veal.
Like Anton’s itself, Anderer’s resume reads like an homage to the classics. Tabla (under the great late Floyd Cardoz), Babbo, Gramercy Tavern, Maialino, Marta. I recall sitting at the Marta counter, watching him throw out pie after pie that looked perfectly fine to my lazy eye, but not perfect enough to him. But it was Martina, Marta’s baby sister where I began to understand his trendsetting ways. Martina was unlike any pizzeria we have, but NYC was just not ready for her yet. Great, now I have the Bonci TV show in my head, most likely for the rest of the day.
Partnered with beverage director and life partner Natalie Johnson, Anton’s is Anderer’s first. The duo not only bringing in a wealth of expertise, but managed to put together an all-star team that includes Otto’s long timer legend Dennis Mullally, among other capable hands. After five years that included a painful pandemic, its now a well oiled machine that’s consistently booked. Though it feels more like the prototypical village neighborhood corner Italian. I’ve seen it referred to as European, but I dont recall seeing Borscht on the menu. He does make killer Pelmeni, but he calls them “Ravioli”.
Has this happened to you? You buy a nice stinky Camembert in France, eat it in the hotel with a fresh baguette, and a nice Vouvray with your spouse, and before you know it you find yourself wondering outside with your PJ’s looking for the nearest garbage can at 2 am. Even when secured in the fridge, the stench can take over the room. Its the Durian of cheese. At Anton’s, two waiters were holding their breath while I was smelling the Camembert from different angles. No smell that I could detect. This was a mild one, but that creaminess, along with that Cherry Gastrique and baguette, a killer combination. A new must.
The Pâté Grand-mère and the Smoked Whitefish Salad are the old musts. My oldest said it was like breakfast at grandmas. I agreed but only because I didnt want to kill the moment. No grandma I know ever served me a whitefish salad like this. Another winner this time was a refreshing salad of winter citrus, fennel, pistachios.
The pasta course at Anton’s is why you need to bring friends. The Spinach-Ricotta Ravioli is one of the classics, though I skipped it this time to try others. The well balanced Fettuccine with Mutton Ragù is Rezdora-esque and our new favorite of the bunch. The Angel Hair Francese takes me to my happy place. Staten Island. Where I’m munching on baked clams at a random red sauce Italian. To me its the pasta version of baked clams rather than the intended Chicken. Not a bad thing. Bucatini Baczynsky, another classic from day one, was the weakest link this time, but its more of a testament to the others.
If there’s one more thing I learned from the Maialino and Marta days is trust the chickens. At Anton’s, the half bird is on the simple side, but just the right crisp and quite satisfying. You know its good when you keep reaching for it on a very full stomach and with plenty of high quality steak left. The expertly cooked Strip Steak Lorenz is another day one item. Pair it with the Spinach a la Noialles. Hmm, maybe its more European than I thought.
Another big plus at Anton’s is the well rounded wine list, including the offerings by the glass. Finish with the Apple Crisp a la Mode and/or Bourbon Pecan Pie, though I’m suspecting you cant go wrong with any of them. Anton’s has all the ingredients for a classic in the making. Go!
Anton’s
570 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: Camembert, Pate, Whitefish Salad, Ravioli, Fettuccine with Mutton Ragù, Angel Hair Francese, chicken, steak, spinach, Pecan Pie, Apple Crisp
Eating With Ziggy 