Fuck congestion pricing. There you have it. The first EWZ post that starts with the F word. I felt it was time. For many of us, driving to the city is expensive as it is. We have to pass multiple bridges and tunnels, some of the most expensive in the world, just to face yet another hefty tax for the privilege. And no, there’s practically zero chance that I will rely on a bus late at night, during bad weather and other situations. We’ll most likely still make plenty of trips as my oldest lives there, but I may need to pivot.
That pivot will require to rely more on less discovered neighborhoods like Gowanus, Brooklyn. Go ahead, I’ll wait while you Google it. You can be a 10 time visitor or even a local that never heard of this neighborhood. Although its tucked between the more famous and eatery heavy Park Slope and Carroll Gardens, you only find yourself in industrial Gowanus if you go to Whole Foods. It looks and feels like a Red Hook extension. The kind of neighborhood where dads playing ukuleles in front of babies in a brewery isnt out of the ordinary.
Add Claro as another reason to go. From the outside and in it looks like your typical rustic Red Hook/Gowanus neighborhood joint. But the food tells a different story. It may sound like a cliche, but if there’s one thing I learned in Mexico City last year, was that Mexican food in the US is quite different than Mexican food there. You expect it but dont realize the extent when you spend time there. Claro, although Oaxacan by nature, is closer to the full service CDMX experience than any place I’ve been to in NYC.
You can visit Claro a dozen times without realizing it boasted a Michelin star until last year. The prices do reflect higher end Mexican, but that was also the case before the Michelin star. Many restaurants like Rezdora, Jeju Noodle Bar often change menus and even decor to try match Michelin expectations, but you get the sense that Claro just wanted to stay the same. Maybe that’s why they couldnt maintain the star.
Masa, Mezcal, and superb raw materials is the name of the game. A concentrated menu that will make you want to bring friends that appreciate good food. While picky eaters can manage, there’s not enough variety to satisfy. Though the excellent Mezcal lineup and based drinks can keep them entertained.
We started with Tuna Tostada, the only dish I’ve had here before. The tuna was bright and flavorful, as were the rest of the ingredients. But its closer to a refreshing salad than a Tostada. Not a bad thing. The Garnachas de Venado was the first moment of brilliance. Two thick fried corn tortillas shaped like small hockey pucks, topped with braised venison. But what made the dish was the accompanied Curtido (fermented cabbage). Another winner was the outstanding Black Bass with green mole, topped with smoked Trout roe, and another beautiful concoction of Brussel sprouts, cabbage, and more.
But the piece de resistance was the Mole Negro. As the hefty price ($68) suggests, its more of a dish for two. It featured a succulent Bone Marrow with fried mole that added a nice texture, and a perfectly cooked short rib sitting on a bed of their famous mole. But it was the ugly duckling, a sad looking Tenderloin that was one of the best cooked meats I’ve had in a long time. It comes with Negi Onion (fancy for scallions), and their excellent tortillas. Their Masa is made in-house from imported Oaxacan corn.
Arroz con Leche with pineapple was the perfect finish to a rare flawless meal. Not too sweet, and not the soupy variety. As for drinks, you got your Mezcal pairing options, but we opted for Mezcal based drinks which were both well balanced and superb. Jungla – Milk Piunch for me, San Pascualito Rey for her. Go!
Claro
284 3rd Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Tuna Tostada, Garnachas de Venado, Black Bass, Mole Negro, Arroz con Leche
Eating With Ziggy 