Campania

For decades I’ve been defending NYC pizza, and claiming NYC the pizza capital of the world. The argument speaks to our culture, and the diversity beyond NYC style, which is really a bastardized version of the Neapolitan. But mainly its the fact that you can find pretty decent Neapolitan these days in NYC.

What makes a good pizza city to me is the proximity to quality pizza from any corner of the city. In NYC you dont need to travel much no matter where you are. But in Naples, you are not just close to good pizza, you are literally surrounded by greatness that could crack the top 10 in NYC. But in order for me to pass the torch, I need to be adopted by a nice Neapolitan family. Now that I added gardening to the repertoire, I dont see how anyone would pass on this opportunity

Choosing pizza in Naples for first time tourists is like, well, choosing pizza in NYC. Except imagine if all the best pizzas were in one borough. There are roughly 1,000 pizzerias in Naples, and 8,000 when you include suburbs. That doesnt include regular restaurants, even seafood joints that serve pizza. The obsession with dough, availability of quality ingredients, and the local pizza culture, makes it very difficult to find subpar pizza in Naples.

What else did I learn.

Neapolitans generally dont eat their pizza with a fork and knife. I’ve been living a lie.

For “individual pies”, the pies were quite large. Two pies can easily feed three.

Compared to NYC, pizza is dirt cheap here. About a third of the price. So very easy to overorder.

Locals pair their pizzas with coke and beer. Even local legend Maradona enjoyed his pizza with coke. Wait, did I assume coke the beverage? 😉

So where did we eat. I didnt choose any of the mega touristy legends like Da Michele, Sorbillo, Starita. Although I am intrigued by Da Michele and will probably try it next time. We were 7 people so places that take reservations took precedence, but I didnt budge on quality.

50 Kalo

A highly regarded gem by dough expert Ciro Salvo. Two locations, both near each other and out of the tourist zone, hence the only place where we were surrounded by locals. We chose the newer Piazza della Repubblica location since they take reservations. #12 in the recent best 50 pizza in the world list.

The pizzas were solid all around. Margherita and Diavola were pretty much what you expect from a place like this. Dough was light, airy and delicious, although I preferred a bit more of a bite in some parts. It was almost too soft. The Montanara (fried pizza, top pic) with its intense tomato sauce was a particular group fave which meant we ate Montanara every day in Naples.

Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria

Also on the Top 50 list and highly regarded by this guy and others, but sort of gets lost in the shuffle in Naples. Even with the prime tourist location its very easy to get a table or even reserve one. Owners also have a Michelin star restaurant, and the pizzeria has probably the best terrace/pizza quality combo in Naples. Second floor terrace overlooking the lovely Piazza San Domenico Maggiore with that pizza, priceless.

While the sauce of the Montanara here wasnt as intense as 50 Kalo’s, I’d still order it again. The EVA with smoked mozzarella was good, though some in the group found the smokiness weird (same ~~weirdos~~ people dont like Mezcal). The star however was the Diavola. This is one of the most respected Diavolas in the city but also one of the most elaborate, with spicy salami, sweet pepper cream, yellow tomato cream, orange zest, and sun dried pepper. I have a love hate relationship with hot honey, but the sweetness here works.

Pizzeria Attilio’s

If I have to pick one of the three, this is it. But I really liked all three for different reasons. Unlike the other two, Atillio felt like a real Pizzeria, not a restaurant. Its also more popular so requires careful planning. Best to come right before they open or risk waiting. Its in the middle of a vibrant street market in the Spanish qtr. Third generation Attilio, same name as his grandfather, very much present inside. He’s been helping out in the restaurant since he was 6 after his dad sadly passed and his mom was running things.

One notable app here was the excellent Crocchettone, a massive potato croquette. With the way Italians name things I’m surprised they didnt name it Pene di Cavallo. Its stuffed with provola, broccoli rabe, and bits of sausage. The pizzas were light and great as expected. Atillio was one of the first to dish out star shaped pizzas with the points filled with ricotta. I particularly liked the salami strips in the Diavola, but every pie was exceptional.

A hop and a skip from Naples is one of Campania’s remaining hidden jewels. While tourists, mostly Americans, do the trains, planes and automobiles pilgrimage to Positano and Amalfi, Neapolitans hop on a quick ferry to the island of Procida. Most tourists we met on the Amalfi Coast havent even heard of the more famous Ischia, let alone its little neighbor Procida.

Whats so special about Procida? Only everything. Its like Positano without the tourists and Limoncello in penis bottles. Winning the coveted Capital of Culture prize in 2022 put Procida on the map, but mainly for Italians. I’m told, the residents are honored but would prefer the island to remain as is.

I first heard of Procida from Katie Parla years ago. So when we finally decided to visit Campania, Ischia and Procida became a priority, and ultimately replaced Capri. Easy decision after seeing Positano, and being told Capri is even more crowded.

To visit Procida, you can take a ferry from Naples, Ischia, or hire Giovanni from Dolce Vita to take you there which is what we did. Giovanni offers private boat tours from Ischia for around half the price you pay in Amalfi Coast. He will take you to picture perfect Marina di Corricella, Procida’s crown jewel, and let you explore the area on your own.

The cool thing about a boat tour is seeing Corricella from the water. But the classic shot from above is a short walk to Belvedere Corricella where we met an enthusiastic school group visiting from Naples. Their teacher told us to try the local octopus. You dont have to tell me twice.

Giovanni recommended Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella for that Octopus, right by the dock. Octopus with potato salad was just what the doctor ordered. We also indulged in mixed pasta with beans and mussels, gorgeous sweet Prawns, and a sublime carbonara with local tuna instead of guanciale. But one particular appetizer stole the show.

When life gives you lemons in Procida you make a Lemon salad, not lemonade. Procida has its own huge, ugly lemons with the kind of sweetness and low acidity that rivals the one from Amalfi. It can be eaten on its own or as in this case, a salad with balsamic vinegar. Outstanding stuff in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.