A hop and a skip from Naples is one of Campania’s remaining hidden jewels. While tourists, mostly Americans, do the trains, planes and automobiles pilgrimage to Positano and Amalfi, Neapolitans hop on a quick ferry to the island of Procida. Most tourists we met on the Amalfi Coast havent even heard of the more famous Ischia, not alone its little neighbor Procida.
Whats so special about Procida? Only everything. Its like Positano without the tourists and Limoncello in penis bottles. Winning the coveted Capital of Culture prize in 2022 put Procida on the map, but mainly for Italians. I’m told, the residents are honored but would prefer the island to remain as is.
I first heard of Procida from Katie Parla years ago. So when we finally decided to visit Campania, Ischia and Procida became a priority, and ultimately replaced Capri. Easy decision after seeing Positano, and being told Capri is even more crowded.
To visit Procida, you can take a ferry from Naples, Ischia, or hire Giovanni from Dolce Vita to take you there which is what we did. Giovanni offers private boat tours from Ischia for around half the price you pay in Amalfi Coast. He will take you to picture perfect Marina di Corricella, Procida’s crown jewel, and let you explore the area on your own.
The cool thing about a boat tour is seeing Corricella from the water. But the classic shot from above is a short walk to Belvedere Corricella where we met an enthusiastic school group visiting from Naples. Their teacher told us to try the local octopus. You dont have to tell me twice.
Giovanni recommended Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella for that Octopus, right by the dock. Octopus with potato salad was just what the doctor ordered. We also indulged in mixed pasta with beans and mussels, gorgeous sweet Prawns, and a sublime carbonara with local tuna instead of guanciale. But one particular appetizer stole the show.
When life gives you lemons in Procida you make a Lemon salad, not lemonade. Procida has its own huge, ugly lemons with the kind of sweetness and low acidity that rivals the one from Amalfi. It can be eaten on its own or as in this case, a salad with balsamic vinegar. Outstanding stuff in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Eating With Ziggy 