Posts Tagged With: Travel

15 Best Things We Ate in Sicily

sirena-di-sansica-red-shrimp16 days in Sicily in July means you are still writing about it in November.  Couple that with a trip to Montreal and you essentially got The Summer of Ziggy!  It’s the kind of trip I dont believe I can mimic anytime soon, but you the reader can!  These 15 items alone should give you plenty of ideas if you researching but I strongly recommend checking out the rest of the Sicily Page.  I can easily spend another 3 months writing about this, but wife now wants me to concentrate on Croatia.  She’s just a tiny bit spoiled eager.  So, pull up our trip theme song one last time, and lets get lost together…

Octopus Carpaccio at L’Arco Dei Cappuccini (Taormina)

Yet another sharp reminder kids.  Leave the center, and wonderful things start coming your way.  I’m talking unicorns, and puppies, and Octopuses.  In this case you need to leave the gates entirely, but not venture too far.  Now I’ve had Octopus Carpaccio before, but never quite like this one.  They press octopus into this huge cube, smoke it and slice it into thin, silky smooth, Mortadella like slices.  Phenomenal starter in our fave in Taorminaimg_8838

Gelsi Neri Granita at La Dolceria (Giardini Naxos)

Davide our trusted host at Agon, and our Etna guide hooked us up with this bakery when I told him about my quest for a good Gelsi Neri Granita (red mulberry ). This turned out to be the best of the trip which included the famed Cafe Sicilia in Noto.  This is also the place Davide gets his outstanding breakfast pastries, like the pistachio cream and ricotta croissants.  To understand the kind of passion, one needs to meet the baker.  After taking some Italian courses!  Oh and did I mention the Granita comes with a delicious brioche?  Looks like I didnt!img_8735

Mussels at Taberna Sveva (Siracusa)

Come for the Polpo Alla Luciana and Busiate Maniace, stay for the mussels.  The Siracusan mussels turned out to be the unsung heroes during our stay in magical Ortigia. Fully open, vary in size, but not in taste, and served with a delicate light tomatoee salsa.  They tasted fresh, and had this wonderful salty tanginess that carried a lot of flavor.  If you see mussels on menus in Siracusa, attack!  Just like they did hundreds of years prior in nearby Maniace castle.  Though I dont believe they were fighting over Mussels.  Maybe Couscous!img_8872

Smoked Mozzarella at Borderi (Siracusa)

Visit the end of the market, and you’ll see why Borderi is not exactly a hidden gem.  Trip Advisor savvy Tourists and locals flock here in numbers, and for good reason.  But we didnt need to work hard.  A simple glance and hand gestures I can not describe here by our market tour guide and local celebrity Lele Torrisi and voila!  A cheese and salumi plate of dreams, with the smoked mozzarella winning the all around ooohs and ahhhs war.IMG_9021

Chicken at Macallè (Siracusa)

Picking the chicken from the best meal in Ortigia, and in the context of this blog post, feels as wrong as Santa partying in a Bar Mitsvah.  We’ve had some much more qualified sounding dishes at Macallè like the squid and the amazing sweet red shrimp from Mazara.  But the chicken is the one dish we ordered a second round, and I cant say the same about any other dish in Sicily.  Juicy, tender dark meat pure awesomeness.  Perhaps the reason to include it is because its, well, chicken!  Something requiring skill and hard work to taste so good.IMG_9180

Calamari Siciliano at Ristorante Al Boccone (Marzamemi)

At this sleepy village on the coast, 20 minutes from opposite of sleepy Noto, touristy looking Al Boccone on the water, surprisingly produced a very pleasant meal.  The standout here was two behemoth squids stuffed with bread crumbs, pine nuts and other goodies that included more squid.  They arrive in a stew like fashion with tomato and onions.  A revelation with a view!IMG_9667

Focaccia Tomasini Rolls at Modicarte (Modica)

An outrageously delicious little creation created by one of Sicily’s up and coming young talents.  Me!  A local traditional snack of Focaccia filled with ricotta, onions, and fresh sausage.  The family helped, and of course the talented Maurizio of Modicarte and his mom had a hand in it.  But there’s no mistaken who’s masterful touch was key in this cooking class at our accommodations just outside of beautiful Modicaimg_9274

Fresh Ricotta at Iabichino (Ragusa)

This was a special treat as part of our day with Alessandro of Uncovered Sicily.  We visited an organic winery, a legendary olive oil maker, and a 4th generation farm.  While we were well fed throughout the day, it was the potent, raw fresh ricotta made for us at Iabichino that felt the most special.  And while we visited such farms before, there was just something about spending some time with the family, watching them make ricotta the same way they’ve done for over 100 yearsimg_9333

Arancini at Azienda Agricola Mandranova (Palma di Montechiaro)

We knew we were heading to an award winning Olive Oil producer.  But we didnt know they have no more room on the award wall, and that our local Eataly has an entire section devoted to them.  We were treated to a special lunch and a tour at this beautiful estate and the highlight for me there was the best Arancini of an Arancini filled trip.  Owner Silvia said they overcooked them this time by a good 30 seconds and I asked if on my next visit they could make this mistake again.  As a falafel lover, this had that nice crunch, with a succulent porky ragu interior.  Very nicely done!img_9899

Mixed Grilled Seafood at Salmoriglio (Porto Empedocle)

Hard to pick a favorite dish from one of the best meals of the trip.  It was essentially a spectacular seafood extravaganza that included every sea creature known to man, Sicilian man.  But the last seafood dish probably brought the most joy.  Perfectly grilled sweet Gambero Rosso, scampi, fresher than fresh Calamari, outrageously good baby octopus, and just about the best swordfish steak I ever had.  A welcoming gem between Scala dei Turchi and Valley of the Temples.

Salmoriglio Mixed Grill

Vongole at Tischi Toschi (Taormina)

One of the most anticipated meals of the trip wasnt particularly memorable, but they did dish out one killer Vongole.  Beautiful, tiny clams from a lake near Messina where Tischi Toschi got their fame before moving to the mega touristy Taormina.  Out of a Vongole filled trip, this was the standout.img_8601

Pistachio Cream at Ciuci’s Manor (Aragona)

You start to fully appreciate this gift from Ginevra and mama way before you open the jar back home.  Sicily is known for its famous pistachios.  And when you enter a food store at say Trapani or Palermo and sample their pistachio cream, you realize you are not in donkey land anymore.  Ciuci’s Manor is one of the best sources on the island for pistachios, and every guest receives a jar of the cream after enjoying it every morning.  Oh and did I mention this is an Agriturismo (farm), and the most special, dreamlike accommodations we’ve experienced anywhere?  Matzah season couldnt come soon enough!IMG_3534

Busiate “Expo” at Sirena di Sansica (Tonnara di Bonagia)

If there’s one thing to learn from this post is this:  Stay a few nights at Ciuci’s Manor.  If there’s another thing to learn is have a meal at Sirena di Sansica, about 20 minute drive from Trapani.  Come early and walk around the port for the mesmerizing views that include the rock of San Vito.  And hopefully you’ll also experience the world’s loudest Zumba class.  The meal featured more incredible couscous, fresh fish, and the fattest juiciest Gambero Rossos of the trip.  But this well balanced, only in Sicily, Busiate with eggplant, pistachio, swordfish, and breadcrumbs stole the show.  It’s called Expo because they made this dish for the Milan Expo competition.sirena-di-sansica-busiate-expo

Seafood Couscous at Trattoria del Corso (Trapani)

Trapani the city, isnt particularly well represented in this blog post, but this leg was our favorite for food.  Trapani is like the Bologna of Sicily, with its plethora of high quality restaurants and unique regional specialties, like fish couscous.  And at del Corso the couscous is quite the solid item.  It comes with its own delicious fish broth that ties everything together so nicely.  Its a bustling, mostly female, Slow Food Trattoria.  Very popular with locals, so make those ressies.img_0399

Pasta Con le Sarde at La Cambusa (Palermo)

Two weeks after I declared it one of the best pastas of the trip in July, I find it in the latest issue of Travel and Leisure.  Same Dish at the same place.  Coincidence?  Yes!  But finally T&L is on to something (I dont usually pay much attention to their food picks).  Pasta Con le Sarde of course is the classic Palermo homage to its Arab roots, consisting of raisins, fennel, breadcrumbs, pine nuts, and sardines.  A killer combination that resulted in this sweet richness we’ve never had before in pasta.  La Cambusa is the place to have it, but just try not to drink and exchange eye contact with the area clown.img_0808

Bonus #1:  Pizza at Ciccio Passami l’Olio (Palermo)

We didnt come to Sicily for pizza, but it is a thing here that is almost as cultural as in Rome and Milan.  It’s thick alright, but in a more bready kind of way, unlike NYC Sicilian.  One of the most famous places to experience it is in Pizzeria Calvino in Trapani, but that means potentially “wasting” a meal in Sicily’s most culinary province.  Another place we enjoyed was at Le Magnolie in Gianforma where no one spoke English and we were the only tourists in that part of Ragusa country.  But our favorite was more of a Neapolitan fair at Ciccio in Palermo where the crust reminded us how we loath for that light, airy delicate crunch

Bonus #2:  Gambero Rosso from Sirena di Sansica.  Already mentioned this place, but worth mentioning the sweetest and fattest Gambero Rossos of the trip.  Top Picture

Ciao for now.  Stay Hungry My Friends!img_1345

 

 

 

Categories: Italy, Sicily | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Our Ragusa Day with Alessandro (Uncovered Sicily)

img_9423Yes, still not done yet.  I have one last day to tell you about before I dwell into our favorite bites in Sicily.  While the entire day with Alessandro was a memorable one, our last stop at the winery was a particular highlight.  Alessandro is the proprietor of Uncovered Sicily, essentially in the business of selling cultural experiences of all kinds.  From archaeological walks with an archaeologist, Museum walks with curators, to Arancini cooking classes with Arancinialogists!  Alessandro lives in Ragusa, and not only extremely knowledgeable, but quite passionate about the area and its terrain.  We spent the day with him, visiting three places the area is known for most (cheese, olive oil, wine) and even had some time to explore the old town of Ragusa Ibla with him

Iabichino – Our first stop was an eye opener.  An old 4th generation dairy farm in a beautiful area.  Three generations on premises, along with 80 cows and one very lucky bull.  You can see the smirk!  Although we’ve been to such farms in Italy before, it was particularly interesting to learn about this farmer’s routine, way of life, and whats in store for the kids living in the farm.  Hearing about milking the 80 cows twice a day alone made me look for the nearest bench.  Its a hard life that makes you appreciate what you eat.  We sampled earthy fresh ricotta they made especially for us, and other traditional Ragusano cheese.  This is something you cant do on your own, unless you speak Italian and know the family and area well

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Cheese Master hard at work

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Cutrera – One of the two olive oil legends we visited in Sicily.  The other one is Mandranova which we visited on our own a few days later.  You realize the status of the two when you visit Eataly NYC (both of them).  While there are all kinds of great oils from all over Italy, the two have their own dedicated sections.  We learned about the techniques and hard work that sets them apart, and had some fun with the proprietors.  We learned how to sample award winning EVOO properly (apparently just tasting it is all wrong), followed by a simple lunch of.. you guessed it… olives and olive based spreads and salads.  Olives is one of the only foods I’m not particularly fond of, but I was fond of this.

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Feudo di Santa Tresa winery – I couldnt do the first one by myself, and I needed a designated driver for the third.  This appointment alone makes this excursion worthwhile.  We were joined by Laura and the winery’s CEO for a property tour and tasting, and boy what tasting it was.  Its a beautiful estate in the middle of a rugged area.  In the cellars, you practically smell the product and history.  We tasted around 7 wines, some of which were quite unique to us.  I particularly liked the Rina Ianca white (Grillo + Viognier combo), while Mrs Z was smitten by the Frappato, a red served slightly chilled and can be used for fish.  All served with a beautiful lunch spread.  But by the end of it all, it was just us having a fun filled lunch with new friends, and a designated driver.  Thanks Alessandro!

http://www.uncoveredsicily.com/

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Categories: Italy, Sicily | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Introducing the Z-List Map

danji-big-korean-breakfastSince so many of you are paying attention to this Z-List for some reason, I figured I might as well help you out with a little map.  The same map appears at the bottom of the Z-List page.

Happy Thanksgiving!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1D349Rvw-nDSZ2D13p0c_7gkL9rA&usp=sharing

 

 

Categories: New York City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Mister Dips – A Burger With a View

mister-dips-viewA famous person once said, “I didn’t know that I was starving till I tasted you.  Don’t need no butterflies when you give me the whole damn zoo.  By the way, by the way, you do things to my body.  I didn’t know that I was starving till I tasted you”.  Always a joy listening to this one in the car with the kids around (rolling eyes smiley goes here).  I knew that I was starving before I tasted this burger.  Well, I wasnt literally starving, but it was a solid notch above first world hunger kind of starving.  And while I didnt quite get the zoo when I visited William Vale’s second floor terrace (or is it third), I did envision butterflies roaming around there in the spring.  And yes, it did things to my body.  Wonderful things!  Followed by guilt, despair, and total loss of hope in humanity (especially after the elections).

Maybe I should have just stopped with a single patty.  Did I really need a double?  And instead of plain waffle fries, did I really need the porn name sounding “Dirty Dipper”, covered with spicy, gooey, wonderful cheddar and scallions?  Yes, I needed all those things.  Raise your hand if you are tired of your partner’s “Do you really need that?” every time you reach for a dark chocolate?  Do you REALLY need that diamond ring?

The Mister Dips burger, sold from a parked Airstream trailer, is as solid as a Shake Shack burger can get (yes Shake Shack is is now officially the “Bounty” of burgers).  The flavor profile is spot on, and the price is right.  Coupled with the dirty Waffle Fries, and.. watch out Shake Shack, there’s a new bounty in town.  You know things are going well when you forget to drink your beverage while eating.  But that’s not all.  The park, terrace, Low Line, or whatever they want to call it, is a stunner.  A “chuppah” of colorful patio furniture, overlooking lower midtown Manhattan, with grassy hills to boot.  Gorgeous views, especially once you ignore the construction in between.  Did I mention the speakers blasting gangsta rap and 80’s in the background?  So check it out, along with a well earned bathroom break at the new William Vale, before the mister shuts its Dips for the season.

Mister Dips
111 N 12th St (Williamsburg. William Vale Promenade)

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Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Jean-Talon Market (Montreal)

img_1623Quite possibly the most vibrant, colorful, high quality produce market I’ve ever seen.  In too much awe to take enough quality pictures.  And by awe I mean the outrageously sweet and delicious “peaches and cream” corn.  They have an entire section dedicated for corn where they sell it to you boiled and buttered.  Something else you dont normally see in markets, fruits available to taste.  You can spend a solid two to three hours here having a picnic right inside it.  Just you and your corn.  And ground cherries!  Look em up, than find them in your city.  Your homework assignment.

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Categories: Montreal | Tags: , , , , , | 4 Comments

Atoboy – Helping Make NoMad Great Again

atoboy-atoboy-2The Schnied is over.  I finally made it to Atoboy, and I finally ate something worthy of more than one Z (stars).  Friends parties, family events, the dog ate my schedule, are just some of the reasons I had to cancel Atoboy about 5 times.  At some point it became a joke, and at another point a curse I thought perhaps I should not be tempered with.  I tempered!  The constant barrage of food porn by an army of Instagrammers kept the plans intact, but it took me a few good months to finally make it.

Atoboy is the newest Korean bad boy in the NoMad, an area that started to feel somewhat stale as of late (New Mercato sibling Ulivo will be next to check out).  A Jungsik alum introduced a whimsical menu of Korean Banchan, small tapas like dishes.  A set price of $36 allows you to choose one dish from three sections. One can add more a la carte ($9, $12, $15 respectfully) and dessert which I recommend here.  Decor as you can see is Industrial Bushwick Chic.  I totally made that up, but you bought it admit it.  Not something you normally see in the increasingly elegant purse-bench filled NoMad hotel zone

atoboy-tartareA friendly waitress guided us well throughout.  Only issue is something that haunts us in just about every tapas like joint, but got elevated here.  A constant flow of arriving dishes.  You eat non stop here, and within an hour you are pretty much done.  For $160 for two that included tip/tax, two Gruners, two desserts, an extra small plate, and $2 upgrade to seasoned rice (yes!), I was expecting to linger a little longer with my date.  I will break the food by rounds, and list my favorites at the end as well

First round – We ordered an extra dish here, the Cobia, served raw, finely diced and mixed with Korean pear, hockey puck tartare style.  Nice combination of textures and flavors.  The least exciting of the early three was surprisingly the heavily Instagrammed beef tartare, a Korean style tartare, thinly sliced strips instead of finely chopped which is my preference.  The “Eggplant “on first glance looked like a babaganoush gone horribly wrong, but resulted in the best dish early on by far.  A spoonful of the layers of eggplant, Dungeness crab and tomato jelly led by that smoky eggplant was pure ecstasyatoboy-sunchoke

Second round – I was a little bored with the “Egg” with Sea urchin, Watercress, Quinoa.  The egg white was in charge throughout and needed something more.  Far cry from a similar egg dish at the NoMad (not fair I know) nearby.  The meaty Jerusalem Sunchoke was more like it, with Oyster mushroom, Black truffles, and Orange.  One of the better dishes of the night

Third round – Fried chicken tempura style with peanut sauce featured a good amount of tender, juicy, delicious meat.  Looks greasier than it actually is.  Mrs Z wasnt as much of a fan though to be fair.  The Brisket with Foie gras infused gravy and more Oyster mushroom looked and tasted like a sick meat stew.  A solid dish, but one of those where the main ingredient (unevenly tender meat cubes) is the least exciting thing there.  Love the garlic chips, the sauce, the mushrooms, and once I started dipping the mushrooms from the Sunchoke dish, I almost wet myself.  From the sauce that is.atoboy-chicken

Dessert.  A tale of two desserts. Panna Cotta with frozen pomegranate was outstanding.  Its all about the cookie crumble in the middle tying everything nicely together.  Black Raspberry Cake was just like a fine pretty cake you get at your corner pastry shop.  Should have tried the Granita with walnuts and burrata.  Go!

Atoboy
43 E 28th St (Madison/Park)
Rating: Two Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Cobia, Eggplant, Sunchoke, Chicken, Brisket, Panna Cota

atoboy-cobia atoboy-eggplant atoboy-various atoboy-brisketatoboy-desert atoboy

 

Categories: Gramercy, Flatiron, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Foodpourri

danji-big-korean-breakfastRandom EWZ food discoveries, announcements, and other nonsense…

Danji, the long time EWZ fave in the kitchen of hell is now doing brunch.  In addition to the best tofu dish in town, you can now enjoy delicacies like the Big Korean Breakfast (top picture), Kimchi bacon fried rice, and their version of the Filipino Sisig.  This medium size Jew did the big Korean Breakfast and (of course) the tofu last week, and as much as I enjoyed them, I would love to try the other offerings next time

Talking about Sisigs, I accidentally had it twice last month.  My favorite was in Maharlika in East Village.  Gorgeously fried pig ears, snout, belly with garlic, chilies on top of garlicky rice.  Just a solid combination of flavors and textures.  And while you at it, try their Lumpia rollsimg_4401

lam-zhou-handmade-noodle-dumplingsHaving trouble sleeping?  Problems in the bedroom, ever since Prosperity Dumplings closed by the health dep’t.  Before you reach for the red pill, blue pill or any pill for that matter, check out Lam Zhou Handmade Noodle in Chinatown.  Even at room temperature, you get some of the tastiest fried pork dumplings in NYC today.  8 for $3 is still quite cheaper than what all the new places charging today

In Pizza news, while I dont normally get excited about Sullivan Street Bakery‘s thin, often room temp Roman pies (I do get excited about everything else), the day I walked into a fresh Pizza Capicola changed all that.  Coppa ham, green olives, chili, fennel, Mascarpone.  A masterful combo with plenty of nice heat to keep your taste buds happy for a while.

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Discoering Los Mariscos in Chelsea Market is like discovering a secret Speakeasy, or Tom Hanks discovering a secret garden full of typewriters.  The Los Tacos #1 team leased the space that leads from the tacos hallway to 15th st where there’s a separate entrance.  The place meant to resemble a Mexican seafood shack, and the Baja style fish and shrimp tacos are as solid as they get in NYC.  And at $3 to $4, quite affordable for Chelsea Marketlos-mariscos

I’ve been eating quite a bit in Brooklyn as of late.  Some ups, some downs, with the highlight coming from the most unexpected, Olivier Bistro in Park Slope.  Homey, basic French Bistro fare done well.  Escargot, Hanger, Daurade special particular standouts.

Stop me when I start sounding like Crazy Eddy, but the new East Village Food Tour is beginning to look like a smashing success food and sightseeing wise.  I assembled a pretty nice route that includes a stop at the always fun Caracas Arepa Bar where we’ll sample some Venezuelan mini Arepas they do especially for the tour.  Not all tours will be the same, but this one is shaping to be one the most popular stops.caracas-bar-pork-shoulder-mini-arepas

img_4469In my constant pursuit of great Soup Dumplings (Xiaolongbao) in NYC that included the much hyped Drunken Dumplings, and others, The Bao in, you guessed it, East Village, makes possibly the best I’ve had in NYC.  Thin skin that holds it on, and a very fine filling of pork and crab which is what I recommend.  Love the dumplings, not so much the stuffier than it should be, $10 per person minimum, space.

Right below Bao on St Marks place is another place we’ve been obsessing with as of late, Spot Dessert Bar.  Playful, imaginary desserts like the Harvest, a plant of berries and soft cheesecake that you water with black rose milk tea.  Dont overlook however the more normal looking and sounding Green tea lava cake spot-dessert-bar

In Bakery news, I cant get enough of Breads Bakery (Jerusalem baguettes, babka, multiple locations), and Arcade Bakery in Tribeca.  Arcade is located in a lobby of an office building and the hours are office kind hours (m-f 8-4).  Go early for the sensational buttery Laminated Baguette, Whiskey-pecan Babka and call me in the morning.

Miso Cherry!  Say it with me, c’mon.  Slower.  Say it like you mean it.  Meeesooo Cherry!  Another wacky Oddfellows Ice Cream flavor that is perhaps the best ice cream/Gelato I’ve had this year.

Stay Hungry My Friends arcade-bakery oddfellows-miso-cherry-ice-cream

Categories: Brooklyn, Chelsea, Chinatown, East Village, Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

NYC Slice Myths

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Best Pizza

’twas the day before National Taco Day.  I was craving pizza, and decided to stop by at my trusted friends at Sacco in Hell’s Kitchen for a slice.  And while sitting there all lonesome, various thoughts came to mind.  “This is still a pretty darn good slice”, “What if I would start riding scooters”, “how come no one is here”, “Where would I park my scooter here”.  Only in my head I say things like “pretty darn”.  The slice is a typical NYC slice done right.  Thin, cooked just enough, with the proper cheese/tomato sauce mix and oregano.  And the crust has just the right amount of char and crunch.  I then expressed my feelings to the owner yet again, and we had a nice chat about other notable slices in NYC and what I call the Peter Luger affect.

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Sacco

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Sacco

The Peter Luger Affect – The notion that once you make it, you make it forever.  Once you are crowned by all media as “The Best”, no matter how many steakhouses, burgers or pizza joints open since the crowning, you are never to be questioned, challenged, or replaced at the top.  Only if the king dies (closes) and doesnt produce a heir, a potential royal shift might occur.  With pizza, unlike steak, its not exactly clear who wears the crown.  But there are a few celebratory “Bests” that come up in just about every conversation, qualified for Peter Luger like glory.

One such place is Joe’s which has three locations including one on Carmine street where I grab a slice from time to time.  During my little talk with Mr Sacco (I dont know the gentleman’s real name so lets just call him that.  In fact, I’m pretty sure I call him that), I decided to pay a visit to Joe’s for a more proper comparison between the two.  Sacco, busy enough to remain open for a while, just outside of the tourist route, but totally empty at times.  Joe’s, consistently mentioned as the top or one of the top slices in NYC, and always packed with tourists and locals.  While the flavor was still there, the Joe’s slice was smaller and quite droopy this time to fully enjoy.  To be fair, I’ve had better slices at Joe’s, and worst slices at Sacco, but on this day at least, the two made the thesis too easy.  Sacco wins this round.

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Just like with Peter Luger, people from all over the world flock to Di Fara in Midwood, deep inside Brooklyn.  Once inside, it actually feels more like a pilgrimage than flocking.  You see tourists embracing their bible guidebook before embracing.  The first sight of 81 year old Dom DeMarco making the pies the same was he’s done for the past 50 years, brings people to tears.  The pizza has won numerous accolades from all over the world, including a”Best of the Best” tag from Anthony Bourdain.  However there’s only one tiny, little issue with this most famous pizza.  Coming from Manhattan for this may take half a day.  You may spend from 30 to 45 minutes waiting for a $5 slice (most expensive in NYC as far as I know), and much longer for a pie.  Dom the legend, doesnt let anyone else make them which is part of the appeal.  But that also means your slice may occasionally be overdone, underdone, or a little misshapen like the one on the right below.  “Sophie’s Choice” in the pizza world is when the food enthusiast husband must choose between the bigger and better slice, or smaller misshapen 30% bread slice, while there with his wife.  Obviously I chose the slice on the right, and still get to sleep in my bed.

Di fara

Di fara

A few days after the latest Di Fara episode, I paid a visit to another favorite, Best Pizza in Williamsburg, by Roberta veteran Frank Pinello.  Like Sacco, BP is not particularly well known, and is just a solid neighborhood pizza joint.  I would replace most of mine for this one.  Baked in a wood fired oven, the pies are the perfect marriage of Napoli and NY styles.  The fresh basil on each slice is like their zoro mark-like trademark.  I bike here from time to time, where the reward to pain ratio is much higher than Di Fara.  A few years ago, it beat both Di Fara and another legend, L&B Spumoni Gardens, on one of those Girls gone shopping so I’m free to roam around Brooklyn taste test

New York is a pizza town.  Its in our blood, and everyone has their favorites.  In the outer boroughs you will find a bagel shop, pizzeria, Chinese takeout, and therefore a pharmacy on every block.  And many of the 100’s of pizza out there do it well.  So while by no means, visit our “Bests” if you are in the area, you dont need to venture out too far for a proper slice.

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Ristorante Sirena di Sansica in Bonagia – Meal of the Year

sirena-di-sansica-red-shrimpTo understand the notion I’ve been “preaching” here that Sicily is mainland Italy 30 years ago (I went from 20 to 30 after being corrected by actual Italians living in NYC) one must simply go to Tonnara di Bonagia on the western tip of the island where once tuna hunted and butchered in ways that are only talked about these days.  And to fully appreciate a meal at the sensational Sirena di Sansica, a 20 minute drive from Trapani, one must arrive earlier, right before sunset.  The rugged coastline leading to the rock of San Vito Lo Capo is mesmerizing.  Even with a wedding party patiently waiting their turn, you hesitate to give up the spot.  Compared to much of mainland, the area is underdeveloped and you selfishly wish that it stays like this forever.  Ancient boats lining up next to the Tonnara, overlooking the colorful port around the Albergo Tonnara Di Bonagia Resort.  A magical moment to say the least.  All to the magical sounds of… Reggaeton!!!

sirena-di-sansica-wineOne of the most bizarre things we’ve ever seen on vacation.  The worlds smallest, oddest and loudest, three participant Zumba class was right by the port.  I mean, I like to listen to music loud, but this was LOUD.  I guess such things are normal here.  We danced, the wedding party danced, the seagulls danced, everybody danced.  The volume isnt deafening due to the open space, but its at the point where your booty, shoulders and other parts start to move involuntary, while you wonder what the hell is going on here.  How does one nap in this sleepy looking corner of the world

Even after recent renovations to modernize the place, Sirena di Sansica is old school.  Outside it looks like an old movie theater or a disco, while inside its like a dim sum palace meets old Brooklyn trattoria.  “Modernizing” in Sicily is like going from the 60’s to 80’s.  The restaurant is facing the water, and the sunsets here speak more volume than the Zumba.  Ok maybe not.  But its really the type of place you immediately feel at home.  Especially when the kids start making fun of their mom’s facial expressions after she had a little too much Grillo.  Sursur from Donnafugata, the smoothest, most balanced Grillo of a Grillo filled trip.sirena-di-sansica-busiate-expo

But it’s all about the food and the fresh seafood due to the special relationship they have with the local fisherman including their own boats.  You first get introduced to the lovely catch of the day and you sort of build your order based on that (along with other menu classics). This was a little more expensive ($140) than other meals but considering what we chose and ate, possibly the steal of the trip.  Fantastically fresh mussels which my oldest guessed properly from Messina.  She was probably thinking about clams but I gave her the credit anyway.  Busiate with lobster was outstanding, but another Busiate, “Expo” stole the show… eggplant, pistachio, swordfish, breadcrumbs, and more.  Rich but oh so nicely balanced and delicious. It’s called “Expo” because they made it for the Milan Expo as part of a food competition. Perhaps the best pasta of the trip.

Couscous with broth without the fish or any seafood was actually better than the other couscous we’ve had in Sicily with the fish. You can buy and add fresh fish but we saved that for the secondi.  I picked 6 lovely Gambero Rossos from the ‘Bunny Ranch’ like lineup and these were the fattest and sweetest red shrimp of the entire trip.  After realizing I prefer them slightly cooked than raw, we asked them to be grilled.  Raw they can be a little limp.  And a red scorpion fish they call cipolla (onion) made traditionally soup like, sautéed with a nice tomato based broth, specatucarly tasty dish (plate shown is one of the halfs).  One of those meals.sirena-di-sansica-cipolla sirena-di-sansica-shrimp sirena-di-sansica-busiate-lobster sirena-di-sansica img_0614 img_0615 img_0617 img_0627 img_0633

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More About the Tours

img_7125I’m getting a lot of questions about the tours, so want to put this out there.  I started booking tours for this month and well into January, and already have some days full.  But quite a few are still open, and with all the bookings I got so far a schedule is born, well sort of (send me your dates).

About the tours and prices:  These are not budget tours by any stretch.  Compared to what you get at some of the other tours (half a slice of pizza, half a hod dog, half a joke. I know because I took some of these tours), this one is quite gourmet.  In case you havent noticed, I’m a food snob (Ask my wife about her attempt at tacos last night –  I was being super nice).  I take you to some of my favorite places, with little regard to price.  Each place comes with a personality, and a story.  Keep in mind that a proper mid range meal in NYC is around $75 per person.  And some of the tour agencies charge you between $200 (two hours) to $600 (Full day) for a private tour.  I have to keep prices as low as I possibly can, for the time being at least.

img_3935Brooklyn Tour – I pick you up from the hotel (assuming its conveniently located) at 9:00 AM and we travel through Brooklyn like no other tour company does to my knowledge, in a comfortable car.  We hit very diverse, ethnic, and in some cases picturesque neighborhoods like Sunset Park, Coney Island, Brighton Beach, Flatbush – Ditmas Park, and historic Prospect Park South.  If we’ll have time we’ll get to Red Hook too.  This is the real Brooklyn.  We’ll walk and explore about 3 or 4 neighborhoods, and eat some wonderful stuff.  Other tours just drive around from one pizza place to another fooling tourists into believing they cant get better in Manhattan.  They certainly can.  I suspect we are back anywhere from 4 to 6 pm depending on how much fun we have and traffic.  During Christmas season we’ll end in Dyker Heights for the lights ($100 per.  2 person minimum for now.  Will work with families).  4 people max.

Hell’s Kitchen Food Tour –  This neighborhood has a very complex and violent history and I know it very well.  We’ll explore the area for about 4 hours, and eat at some of my favorite spots.  Plenty of photo opportunities, and interesting sights on the way with some surprises.  This is a very local experience, and you’ll have a nice understanding of the area.  $60 per.  We meet at 2 pm on the southeast corner of West 48th st and 8th ave (In front of FDNY Engine 54).  5 people max.

East Village Food Tour – Similar to the Hell’s Kitchen tour except that this is an entirely different neighborhood with its own unique history and stories.  It reminds me of Sicily in a sense that the neighborhood went through so much, with a constant flow of invasions of people and cultures.  Oh and only the best food neighborhood on the east coast.  About 4 hours.  $60 per person.  Meet at 11 am, Location TBD.  5 people max.

Hells Kitchen tour via Local Expeditions – Essentially the same as the food tour without most of the food stops.  Its a 2-3 hour area tour with just a couple of food stops.  $40 per.  We meet at 10 am on the southeast corner of West 48th st and 8th ave (In front of FDNY Engine 54).  10 people max.

For any inquiries email EatingWithZiggy@gmail.com

Soon I will have a separate site for the tours, so not to make this a commercial area.  Its still a food blog first.

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