Easter Sunday in New Orleans
Categories: New Orleans
Tags: Easter Sunday New Orleans, New Orleans, New Orleans Parades, Travel
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Atchafalaya – Gazuntite
Tucked deep inside the Irish Channel neighborhood is New Orleans’ first and only five “A” dining establishment, Atchafalaya! An On and Off neighborhood gem that changed hands a few times to become On again, offers one of the most sought after jazz brunches in town. Its no coincidence that some of the best meals we had in all our travels are off the beaten path, away from the tourists (those damn pesky tourists!) and this one was definitely not an exception. Reaching Atchafalaya after a long walk in the star studded Garden District/Lafayette cemetery area with 3 women wearing new “but I swear they are so comfortable” shoes, requires a five “A” award in itself.
Due to the blister action, we opted to be served the bloody Marys instead of making our own in their popular Bloody Mary bar. The BM was on the spicier side, loaded with all the usual veggie suspects including broccoli and okra, along with nuts, bacon, car keys, and god knows what else they put there. Bread Pudding, Bloody Mary, drinking in public are some of the things New Yorkers need to experience in NOLA. Every time I try any of these in NYC I’m either disappointed or arrested.
Speaking of Bread Pudding, the savory bread pudding in Atchafalaya is outrageously good. Filled with Mushroom, Sundried tomatoes and topped with tomato sauce, addictive stuff to say the list. A solid top 10 dish of the trip contender. Shrimp and Grits were probably the best shrimp and grits I ever had. Huge plump gulf shrimp with a tangier darker looking sauce. Another fantastic dish is the Eggs Atchafalaya, sort of an Egg Benedict but with fried green tomatoes and crab. Fried green tomatoes is one of the specials here, adding much needed tartness to some dishes. Crab and poached eggs are featured all over the brunch menu. Another winner was the Oyster Rockefeller special. There was beautiful bacon, creamy spinach, more delicious grits, meaty glorious fried oysters, and yet another poached egg tying everything together.
So put your old shoes, some bandages just in case, go for a little stroll to Atchafalaya, and get rewarded. Highly recommend this one
Atchafalaya
901 Louisiana Ave.
New Orleans
$$$
Recommended Dishes: Savory Bread Pudding, Eggs Atchafalaya, Shrimp and Grits, Oyster Rockefeller (special)
Categories: New Orleans
Tags: Atchafalaya, Atchafalaya New Orleans, Best Jazz Brunch in New Orleans, food, New Orleans, restaurants, Travel
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Kokum – YeShiva University
Rule of thumb still stands. Want solid Indian in the city of New York, just visit any of Shiva’s establishments. That’s Shiva Natarajan if you scoring at home, or if you’re alone. Adding Kokum to the Arsenal that includes Chote Nawab and Malai Marke. Kokum, named after a fruit used as a spice in South India cooking represents the cuisine of Kerala among other South Indian regions. A refreshing addition to North Indian heavy (read Heavy as in rich) NYC.
When you first walk inside Kokum, it feels like second hour of lights fixture shopping time with the wife in Chinatown. You start feeling dehydrated, dizzy while hallucinations and impure thoughts about Indian and Chinese food start kicking in. If this is what Shiva went through to get funky lights fixtures, than I feel for you brother. Women Schwomen you know what I’m saying!
Kokum’s menu requires a stint at Ye(Shiva) University, before arrival. Its not only large, but it will make your head spin. There must have been 30 items at least that I wanted to try including some familiar items from Shiva’s other establishments. As a result, flavors were a little more familiar than I was expecting but in a very very good way.
Tropical Kerala – Perhaps the first ever cocktail at an Indian establishment I really liked. Get this.
Kumily Chicken Fry – Well done. Good depth and not too dry. Similar to Chili Chicken at Malai Marke and perhaps your neighborhood Szechuan
Mysore Masala Dosa – You gotta get a Dosa crepe here. This one was stuffed with spiced potatoes and onions. Terrific accompanied chutneys ranged from mild to hot. This thing is huge
Red Pumpkin Thoran – Good, nicely balanced, but should have ordered the bindi (okra) we enjoyed so much in Shivas other establishments
Kori Gassi – We liked this a lot at Chote Nawab so had to get it again.
Chettinad Kulambu – I’ve been on a Chettinad high lately as my go to lunch choice. This is probably the best Chettinad I’ve had
No Naan here. Got some spongy Appam rice crepes, like Sri Lankan Hoppers. Appalam, lentil pancakes I would skip. Great Paripu Podi Rice
Kokum
106 Lexington Ave
Recommended Dishes: All of the above
Categories: Gramercy, Flatiron, New York City
Tags: Best Indian in NYC, Curry Hill, food, Kokum, Kokum NYC, NYC, restaurants, South Indian NYC, Travel
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5 NOLA Desserts to Target
Banana Brown Butter Tart at Herbsaint. So good we have to have it on every trip. Rhonda Ruckman the young looking pastry chef is reaching legendary status according to various blogs/publications. Add their terrific homemade vanilla ice cream and call me in the morning. (Its just an expression – dont call me) 
Butterscotch Pudding at La Petite Grocery. We tried a few desserts at La Petite Grocery and the least exciting dessert prevailed over the others. Truly delectable
Pecan Pie at Brigtsen’s. I love love Pecan Pie, and this was probably the best I’ve had. The pecans are cut so fine that when they fill the top layer it results in a crunchy cookie like texture. And the inside isn’t as jelly like and gooey as you find in your ordinary pecan pies
Pineapple Rum Cake with Dulce de leche Ice Cream at Peche. There goes that Rhonda Ruckman again. Far from your ordinary soggy rum cake 
White Chocolate Bread Pudding at GW Fins. We’ve had some amazing bread pudding in NOLA from the great Cherry Jubilee at SoBou to the funky Krispy Kreme at Boucherie, to the classics of Mr B’s and Commander’s Palace. But GW’s prevailed and not so much for the white chocolate, but the use of the dark stuff (chocolate) that did it for me
Courtesy of GW Fins via Foodspotting
Categories: New Orleans
Tags: Best dessert in New Orleans, Brigtsen's, food, GW Fins, Herbsaint, La Petite Grocery, New Orleans, peche, restaurants, Travel
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Brigtsen’s – Eating Well, Spelling Pourly
How did we function before Google? How did you go about reserving at a place like Brigtsen’s? Did you do it via those large yellow books I sometimes find by my doorsteps, which normally means I have to do an unexpected trip to the garbage cans (after work, its a trip. I prefer by appointment). I’m only in my late 30’s (44 to be exact!) but I dont recall ever using these little yellow behemoths for dining. I wonder because Brigtsen’s probably broke the record for the number of times I Googled a restaurant (previously held by Atchafalaya). Mostly because I could never really get the spelling right. I spelled it every wrong way possible including “Frank’s”, and sticking H’s where they dont belong. Even now I had to Google it for the purpose of this post. Copy and Paste – best invention since Ctl-Alt-Del IMO.
Its not a coincidence that this was our first night’s meal. Frank (Ctl-V) Brigtsen’s, a James Beard award winner is one of NOLA’s great Creole ambassadors. A long stint under the great Paul Prudhomme at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen after starting with chef Paul at Commander’s Palace didnt hurt. I was in fact debating between K-Paul’s and Brigtsen’s for this trip and very happy with the choice. The restaurant itself is inside a Victorian Cottage and just about as homey as it gets. It felt like eating at uncle’s house except that (a bonus normally in my family) the uncle never comes out of the kitchen.
Started with a terrific duo of soups. A very dark and satisfying seafood gumbo, and an even better butternut shrimp bisque that turned my little one into a bisque junkie/critic the rest of the trip. The bisque was creamy, not too sweet, and had just enough pleasant heat to balance things out. Shrimp Remoulade with Guacamole, Deviled Eggs and a surprisingly scrumptious corn relish was a nice medley of flavors and textures with the mustardy Remoulade at the helm. The crawfish shortcake with peppery étouffée and corn was equally enjoyable. 
As for the mains we shared the Paneed Rabbit with mustard sauce. We attacked this perfectly executed Schnitzel-like thing with full force. And we had to have the famous Seafood Platter (aka the “Shell Beach Diet”). Six different items on the plate including a great Drum Amandine with plenty of almond action, two different baked oysters (too full to enjoy and critic), a terrific smoky shrimp jalapeño cornbread (really liked this) and shrimp coleslaw. The only thing I didn’t care for is the Why-So-Sweet scallop. Fantastic dish overall though.
The dessert was perhaps the highlight. The banana bread pudding was top notch but it was as expected the pecan pie that stole the show. The pecans are cut so fine that when they fill the top layer it results in a crunchy cookie like texture. And the inside isn’t as jelly like and gooey as you find in your ordinary pecan pies. Now I get it. Coffee I should say was surprisingly undrinkable here, but a solid meal overall at uncle’s house
Brigtsen’s
723 Dante St, New Orleans
$$$
Recommended Dishes: Butternut Shrimp Bisque, Crawfish Shortcake, Paneed Rabbit, Seafood Platter, Pecan Pie
Categories: New Orleans
Tags: Best Creole in New Orleans, Brigtsen's, Brigtsen's New Orleans, food, New Orleans, restaurants, Travel
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As The World (of Hell’s Kitchen Bodegas) Turns
Some changes to the Hell’s Kitchen Bodega scene prompts me to make quick changes to the guide.
A bodega, for those who dont know, is a Mexican deli or mini market that often serves food (tacos, burritos, etc) as well. Its sort of a NYC thing, and a good way to experience authentic Mexican in a city not exactly known for it
Hell’s Kitchen theses days is suddenly packed with all sorts of exiting Mexican in different price points. That includes some of the best bodegas in town. Unfortunately, one of my favorites Guelaguetza now appears to be closed, and I wish David and his family all the best. I already miss munching on their terrific burritos while watching Dora the Explorer with their kids. And it was the good stuff, with Diego around.
But thats no reason to cancel your holiday if you ask me. Lately I’ve been on the hunt for some good tacos (midlife crisis Stage IV) all over the area and the undisputed winner is Tehuitzingo. Their tacos are so good they are now multiplying, opening yet another Taqueria on 9th and 41st while at the same time renovating the original to look more like a Mexican disco than a bodega. Try the Al Pastor taco, roasted marinated pork.
Categories: Midtown West, New York City
Tags: Best bodegas in Hell's Kitchen, food, Hells kitchen, NYC, restaurants, Tehuitzingo, Travel
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Mr B’s Shrimp – Say Hello to My Little Friend
Some people visit their relatives. Some visit a childhood friend or someone who owes them money. Other folks take a stroll in the quarter while some take a nap. Everybody has their own ritual as far as their first activity in New Orleans. Mine? Mr B’s BBQ Shrimp. Nothing says welcome to foodie heaven New Orleans more than putting on a bib in this semi fancy local institution for these beautiful legendary crustaceans. I said no to that bib once, and paid the price (The dreaded wife look). Never again!
Mr B’s Bistro is one of the jewels in the French Quarters. Although it opened in 1979, in a town filled with institutions such as Commanders Palace, Galatoires, this is one of the new kid on the block. Hurricane Katrina did enough damage to shut it down for 2 years until it was rebuilt to look exactly the same as before. The alumni list that includes Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse, the owner (a Brennan family member), its history and look and feel make it seem more ancient than it is.
You take out the legendary prawns from the equation and the signature dish becomes the rich Gumbo Ya Ya. A dark buttery roux with chunks of chicken and Andouille sausages. “Pretty pretty pretty good”. But this is merely the warm-up act to the main event.
The recipe hasn’t changed since its inception. A buttery, peppery dark roux you want to dip anything into. Their terrific bread, shrimp, fingers, room keys (make sure you have a spare), anything. Unpeeling the huge plump gulf shrimp requires some major finger work, which is why its so crucial to have a bib on. Its almost strange to wear a bib in a place like this, but things can get messy. This is as mouthwatering as a dish can get.
But not everything we’ve had here was nearly as satisfying. A somewhat bland blackened redfish, and a less than stellar pasta jambalaya we had in the prior visit, begs the question. What else is good here. Get the prawns!
And finish the deal with the classic bread pudding with Irish whisky. In NYC, the closest I got to the classic NOLA bread pudding is in an Israeli restaurant called Balaboosta. I don’t know why its so hard to get a decent Bread Pudding in NYC. Everyone is trying to be too cute. Another winner was the Chocolate molten cup cake with raspberry sauce.
Mr B’s Bistro
201 Rue Royal
$$$
Recommended Dishes: Get the Shrimp! Gumbo Ya Ya, Bread Pudding 
Categories: New Orleans
Tags: BBQ Shrimp, Best food in New Orelans, food, Mr B's Bistro, Mr B's New Orleans, New Orleans, restaurants, Travel
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5 lbs and a Carrot Later
We live to tell the tale! Four days in beautiful New Orleans with kids resulted in blisters, a visit to the police station, a carrot, Will Ferrell, choked chickens, and some mighty incredible eats (again). Here are some tidbits about the trip.
- As is the case with so many of out trips, perhaps our most memorable meal was the furthest from the tourist areas. Check out Bevi Seafood if you can
- Bourbon street is a good place to show the kids what happens if you dont do your homework.
- Pastry chefs all over town like Herbsaint’s Rhonda Ruckman (killer B’s – Banana Brown Butter tart below) are showing off some major talent
- Cafe du Monde is still the Beignet to beat according to the official by default Ziggy Family Test Taste. Edging Cafe Beignet by a hair covered with powdered sugar
- When both your daughters reach puberty, the “cute vs new vs comfortable shoes” dilemma that ruins just about every walking tour gets multiplied by 3
- After a Passover style pilgrimage to the grandmother of all Snowball places, I’m still convinced that there’s nothing worth standing on long lines for.
- The key ingredient to a good hotel in NOLA is good plumbing
- Checking out the sculpture garden at City Park is worthwhile
- WWII Museum is a big time national museum that is getting bigger and bigger
- If you simply stick to Donald Link establishments (Peche, Herbsaint, Cochon Butcher, Cochon) chances are you will eat much better than the next guy. Unless the next guy is the Donald
- Get the hushpuppies, fried bread, crawfish jalapeno capellini, whole grilled fish, pineapple rum cake at Peche (Redfish below) and call me in the morning. Well, dont call me. Its just an expression.
- Easter is a good time to visit. Great weather, nicely dressed folks, and if you flash one of them during the parade you get a carrot.
- Try reserving one day for munching in the quarter panicky first time parent style (eat every few hours). BBQ Shrimp at Mr B’s, Chargrilled Oysters at Felix’s, Crawfish Etouffee or Crawfish boil at the French market will do for a very special lunch
- If you hear any form of shouting while at any cemetery it means you need to get the hell outta there before they lock you inside.
- Atchafalaya may be my new favorite brunch place
- If the steep sidewalk curbs dont hurt you, stepping on one while suddenly facing 2 girls covered with just paint will
NOLA Bound
10 reasons why this could very well be my last post…
10. I’ve always said that if I ever get a heart attack, chances are it will be in foodie heaven New Orleans.
9. Once Mrs Ziggy finds out the eating schedule I have in store, it may be the end of me.
8. 3 cemeteries as part of the itinerary including Nocholas Cage’s future grave may mean plenty of deep reflecting about what exactly I am doing with my life.
7. I may choke on Mr B’s BBQ Shrimp, out of excitement
6. Last time I cheated on Matzos I wound up in the emergency room with severe case of hemorrhoids
5. I don’t know how I will react to being allowed to drink in public
4. 9 out of 10 mental health professionals see a direct correlation between depressed zoo animals and depressed Americans. Maybe we should skip the zoo this time
3. I may get killed (thoughts courtesy of 2 full seasons of Treme)
2. If I survive #9, I may not survive the 1.5 miles I plan to walk for a shaved ice snack. The bi@#$ will kill me
1. Last time I biked with the wife in public I wound up in the emergency room, with severe case of hemorrhoids
Bon Voyage. It was a pleasure!
HK Guide Update
A few additions to the guide…
Dessert (about time eh?) – Kee’s Chocolates, Little Pie Company
Doner/Turkish – Adding Turco (needed some convincing) over Hansi (need more convincing but lunch deal is good)
Farm to Table – The Marshal. A solid Addition to the neighborhood
Pizza – Capizzi. A nice alternative to Don Antonio
Best HK dining that’s not actually in HK – A new category for theater goers and those who want to experience some of NY’s finest just outside the area.
Tried other candidates which fell short. Spent a lot of time at Gotham West which saw its first casualty already (Little Chef). “An exciting replacement” according to a GWM rep will be announced soon. In case you missed the recent post on Gotham, here it is. Also added links to the recent “top dishes” posts.
Categories: Midtown West, New York City
Tags: Capizzi NYC, Hells kitchen, Kee's Chocolates, Little Pie Company NYC, The Marshal NYC, Turco NYC
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Eating With Ziggy 