During my Brooklyn tours, we visit one of my favorite stores in NYC, Vintage in Brighton Beach. Its Turkish owned featuring sweets and various foods from all over Europe and Middle East. And every time I’m inside, it doesnt take long before I find myself staring at a particular brand of ice cream in the fridge, reminiscing about what I could only indulge in about once a year as a child. Same type of thoughts come moments earlier when we visit Coney Island. “Awwwwee”, said no one. But today, in my late 30’s (ok, 47 to be exact), I can afford to eat one of those babies more than once a year. And I do cherish every one of those moments.
You dont have to grow up poor to appreciate the little things in life, and good value. A part of that is still in you. But it does help. After spending 6 days in Venice, two things seemed fairly clear. I most likely saved the worst for last. Meaning I wasnt overly excited about the last food choices, and things just couldnt possibly get any better. Second thought was that I forget how expensive is Venice. Maybe not NYC and London prices, but certainly above almost all Italian cities we visited. Especially, possibly unfairly compared to neighbors like Sicily and Croatia for example. But on the last day, things shockingly got better and for lunch at least, a whole lot cheaper. I inadvertently saved the best for last
Burano – Now I understand! It will make you forget about that Murano place you visited moments ago. Like a slap in the face movie studio as soon as you get off the boat. But its {probably} best to get off the Disney-like island for food as deliciousness awaits just across the bride on the sleepy island of Mazzorbo. It is home to the Michelined Venissa and its vineyard. And quietly playing second fiddle is the exceptional Trattoria alla Maddalena. I dont know why I came with low expectations but I’m glad I did.
After a great start, a sizable plate of delicious mussels and clams, we were greeted with the most unique mixed seafood plate of the trip (we had a few). A brilliantly balanced combination of flavors and textures. Various kinds of large shrimp, small shrimp with grilled white polenta. Polenta in all shapes and sizes frequent the menus of Venice and this was the best we’ve had. There was an amazing Bacalau-like spread made from a rare fish (to me at least) called Dentice. A fresher than fresh octopus salad. And something they made from eggs of Sepia that tasted like crab that I couldnt get enough.
Another thing we couldnt get enough of in Venice is simply prepared seafood pasta and gnocchi, and the gnocchi with crab here was another succulent hit. Monkfish, like a good Skate, can be so delicious when fresh and just simply grilled. I regretted not having more prior to this one. In Venice, Panna Cotta is another item you want to consider every other meal or so (when taking a break from the incredible Tiramisus here), and this one topped with strawberry compote did not disappoint.
Add to that a plate of mixed veggies, a cheaper than water carafe of house white and the final bill of 86 Euros. We had another great meal the same night for almost double that amount, and just about every such full meal we had was above and in some cases way above 100. This was closer to the value we found just across the pond in Croatia earlier this year. This is another major GO!
The best tip I can give you when you go to Venice with kids is this: Start planning your return trip without them. Meanwhile you scout, you observe, you take notes, and study. And by the time you return you can pretend to live like a local for just a few days, and do crazy things like have a full meal before dinner. You may even be proficient enough to able to spell Cicchetti without Googling, like the pro that you are. Cicchetti (Chee-ke-tee) is Venice’s answer to the aperitivo (Aperitif). Its the Venetian happy hour. They are served in bars called Bacari, usually 5 to 7 pm, but some are open throughout the day for the rest of us tourists.
Salvmeria – The newest kids on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi block isnt too concerned about its spelling on Google (Yes, its a V in there) because its main aim is locals, not so much tourists. Although far removed from the tourist route, this is one of the most picturesque streets in Venice. The clever assortment of wine goes as far as Moldova. Try the Salumi, and baked scallops with breading and carrots if they have
Fritoin del Gondolier – Its more of a street food shack that can be as convenient as Cicchetti. Here you can try some fried goodies like Mozzarella in Carrozza (a fried sandwich with fillings like ham) and fried cream squares on a stick. Those creamy squares can work well with hot chocolate from Vizio Virtu not too far away
Its time to bump up this Z-Lister and one of my favorite Thai in NYC. All these recent Thai posts can only mean one thing. Its getting freakin cold! And when its cold I like to eat spicy things. And we are also just about outta here to escape this cold front. But this time we are trying something new. We are leaving for something colder instead of warmer (no TCI). The idea is that by the time we come back, we can enjoy better weather. At least thats what we are convincing ourselves.
In East Village, during my tour we discuss the 4 pillars or principles of the Temperance movement when we visit a Temperance fountain: Temperance, Faith, Hope, and Charity. While in Hell’s Kitchen we discuss the 4 pillars of Hell’s Kitchen: Thai, Mexican, Ramen, and Gay Bars. Temperance supporters would obviously disapprove of this neighborhood today. Until they taste any of the items below that is.
Eating With Ziggy 