Trattoria alla Maddalena {Burano} – Best Value in Venice?

Trattoria alla Maddalena - mixed seafoodDuring my Brooklyn tours, we visit one of my favorite stores in NYC, Vintage in Brighton Beach.  Its Turkish owned featuring sweets and various foods from all over Europe and Middle East.  And every time I’m inside, it doesnt take long before I find myself staring at a particular brand of ice cream in the fridge, reminiscing about what I could only indulge in about once a year as a child.  Same type of thoughts come moments earlier when we visit Coney Island.  “Awwwwee”, said no one.  But today, in my late 30’s (ok, 47 to be exact), I can afford to eat one of those babies more than once a year.  And I do cherish every one of those moments.

You dont have to grow up poor to appreciate the little things in life, and good value.  A part of that is still in you.  But it does help.  After spending 6 days in Venice, two things seemed fairly clear.  I most likely saved the worst for last.  Meaning I wasnt overly excited about the last food choices, and things just couldnt possibly get any better.  Second thought was that I forget how expensive is Venice.  Maybe not NYC and London prices, but certainly above almost all Italian cities we visited.  Especially, possibly unfairly compared to neighbors like Sicily and Croatia for example.  But on the last day, things shockingly got better and for lunch at least, a whole lot cheaper.  I inadvertently saved the best for last

Trattoria alla Maddalena - Gnocchi

Burano – Now I understand!  It will make you forget about that Murano place you visited moments ago.  Like a slap in the face movie studio as soon as you get off the boat.  But its {probably} best to get off the Disney-like island for food as deliciousness awaits just across the bride on the sleepy island of Mazzorbo.  It is home to the Michelined Venissa and its vineyard.  And quietly playing second fiddle is the exceptional Trattoria alla Maddalena.  I dont know why I came with low expectations but I’m glad I did.

After a great start, a sizable plate of delicious mussels and clams, we were greeted with the most unique mixed seafood plate of the trip (we had a few).  A brilliantly balanced combination of flavors and textures.  Various kinds of large shrimp, small shrimp with grilled white polenta.  Polenta in all shapes and sizes frequent the menus of Venice and this was the best we’ve had.  There was an amazing Bacalau-like spread made from a rare fish (to me at least) called Dentice.  A fresher than fresh octopus salad.  And something they made from eggs of Sepia that tasted like crab that I couldnt get enough.Trattoria alla Maddalena - clams and mussels

Another thing we couldnt get enough of in Venice is simply prepared seafood pasta and gnocchi, and the gnocchi with crab here was another succulent hit.  Monkfish, like a good Skate, can be so delicious when fresh and just simply grilled.  I regretted not having more prior to this one.  In Venice, Panna Cotta is another item you want to consider every other meal or so (when taking a break from the incredible Tiramisus here), and this one topped with strawberry compote did not disappoint.

Add to that a plate of mixed veggies, a cheaper than water carafe of house white and the final bill of 86 Euros.  We had another great meal the same night for almost double that amount, and just about every such full meal we had was above and in some cases way above 100.  This was closer to the value we found just across the pond in Croatia earlier this year.  This is another major GO!

Categories: Italy, Venice | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

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