Posts Tagged With: food

4 Days in Montreal

Posted on September 3, 2016 by Ziggy

This is essentially a copy and paste from the report I did on Chowhound, with visuals. Three couple celebrating my friend’s 50th. Everything we ate in order of appearance

Olive et Gourmando – Enjoyed the grilled cheese sandwich and the vibe. Vowed to return for breakfast but they only open at 9 which I find a little strange.

Le Serpent – Started with a bang. Menu right up my alley, with exceptional execution. Industrial space and feel in the old city, though way out of the tourist trail. Started with a fine sliced Octopus covered by a thin layer of potato mousseline. A very nice Foie gras looking like two pigs in a blanket without the blanket, with blackcurrant, quinoa, and macadamia nuts. The pastas here are absolutely sensational and so difficult to pick. The best for me was probably the Bucatini with pork flank confit, black garlic, soy – a pungent, punch to the face on every bite. Close second was the the Linguine, speck, almonds, cauliflower, truffle brunoise. Garganelli, pistachio, nordic shrimp, asparagus, mint was good, while the lobster risotto had a nice minty flavor but forgettable. The risotto is the most popular dish here for some reason, but with all those pastas around I would skip it. From the mains, the branzino was great, but the Pork jowl with that melt in your mouth porky awesomeness stole the show. Maple pudding easily won the dessert round. Tremendous meal

Schwartz – Enjoyed this Katz’s of the north. Dont know if I prefer over Katz’s or something more obscure like Harry & Ida’s in NYC, but I enjoyed the whole experience. Our options were fatty, medium or lean. Not sure if I could have asked for “medium-fat” instead of just “medium”, but mine could have used more fat. My wife’s “medium” was a little more peppery than mine which could have used a little more seasoning, but it was fine. I like the the thickness and the way its sliced. A notch above Mile End, our Montreal style smoked meat in NYC. At Schwartz we also had our only classic poutine of the trip. It was good, but no idea how it compares.

Ma Poule Mouillée – Out of everything Montreal has to offer, bagels, poutine, smoked meat, etc, to me the Portuguese stuff was the most interesting. Birds spinning everywhere you turn. This place certainly didnt disappoint, and judging by the line by the time we were leaving, it felt like we came to the right place. Shared the #2 for two, a huge plate of half chicken and fries. Since piri piri can be quite spicy in Lisbon and I was sharing it, I asked for “medium”. Could have used a little more heat but the flavor was definitely there. The chicken was juicy, and the fries once mixed with the chicken sauces and spices turned out better than the Poutine at lunch time. They also have above average Pastel de Nata (egg custards)

Jean Talon Market – Perhaps the finest collection of produce I’ve ever seen anywhere, and an absolutely spectacular market. Beets with colors I never knew exist. Great tasting berries, and ground cherries. Spicy peanut butter from something called Mamba or something. Marmite su’l feu served us a place of traditional delicasies from the island of Réunion, like a mix between creole and Indian. The falafel-like beet based fried ball was my favorite there. Across from them, we got a very nice plate of jerk potato plate but forgot the name. All sorts of nice artisanal action on that particular isle. But the ground cherries and the corn were the highlights for me. Peaches and Cream corn was perhaps the sweetest corn I ever tasted. Picked up some baguettes at Joe la Croûte (good), and later excellent coffee at Café Larue & fils. Though passing by Le Pain dans les Voiles, I regretted not going there for pastry and coffee. I suspected they were just a bakery like Joe la Croûte but looked more than that

Bier Markt – Spotted this fancy bar for a break on our way to the hotel. The place looked very inviting and “happening”. They walked us to the second floor which looked like fun as well. Pretty people, large screens everywhere, nice looking sprawling bar. The anticipation started to grow… which table are we getting, this place looks awesome, this is gonna be great. Then they lead us to another floor up, to an empty hall that now resembles an empty Chinese palace with round tables. We were too tired to complain, and convinced ourselves that we can use the quiet. A huge beer selection that looked more impressive than it actually is. I got a nice local IPA, pretzel, wings (not bad at all), and more poutine.

L’Express – So this was our only disappointing experience. All signs pointed to this being one of Montreal’s most popular traditional bistros if not the most popular. Although I visted Paris a few times, and these types of bistros before, I wasnt entirely sure what to expect in Montreal. Looked and felt very old school. Menu translated in three languages. The waiter suggested a Bordeaux which we liked. Chicken liver pate was fine but came without anything else, just pate to be used with the table bread they served. Octopus covering lentils like a hockey puck didnt have any distinct flavor. The waiter enthusiastically talked about the tartare. He asked whether I want it spicy and I said yes. I liked it, but got tired of it in a hurry, and hardly detected any heat or much flavor. Unlike many tartares I’ve had it also didnt look very appealing. My wife’s steak with fries looked and tasted fairly pedestrian. Desserts here were more interesting. Got the last ‘floating island’ French classic which we enjoyed (thanks for the tip), and the coffee creme brulee special was pretty unique and excellent. The saving grace here was that out of the six of us, my wife and I were the only people disappointed with our meal.

Bagels – I wind up trying both of the institutions. Hard to fall in love with these coming from our NYC bagel culture as these felt a little bland, and sweet, but I appreciated the light and airy texture. My sesame bagel with cream cheese at Fairmont was fine. At St-Viateur I ordered just a plain one and got it fresh out of the oven.

Salmigondis – Enjoyed this brunch in Little Italy. Nothing too unusual or unique about this place (that I can see) but no complaints about anything. “Fried Rabbit” is their take on Chicken with waffles. Nicely cooked rabbit loin with rye waffles, Lapsang tea marinated soft boiled egg, and watercress. The watercress is a good example of how greens can elevate a dish, while the egg added nothing. I rather have a freshly boiled egg. French Toast with peach, oat granola, and lemon curd was nice and rich, like any higher end French Toast. Everyone else enjoyed their meal.

Bouillon Bilk – For my friend’s 50th I felt like I scored a home run with this one. More like a Delino Deshields inside the park grand slam on a bum knee (ok, that was the first expo that came to mind). A sensational meal to say the least. Very plain but smart decor, unassuming looking on a somewhat weird location. You can easily walk by without noticing it, tho you will notice all the gentleman clubs nearby. Their tasting menu card means all the items that arent on the menu are also todays specials along with other specials they may have (a Guinea hen on this night). That meant something like the first course, an Amuse Bouche special ($6) of bay scallops with corn and potato was available. Great little amuse to set the tone. The starters, Hamachi, yuzu kosho, grapefruit, fennel, cucumber, and the Cavatelli with truffle, almonds, quail egg, parsley were flawless. Australian shaved truffles needed a lit more truffle lift from truffle cream but the end result was great. The halibut, gnocchi, nordic shrimps, artichoke, seaweed butter dish my wife ordered was excellent, but mine was better. Scallops, cauliflower, shiitake, pear, watercress, beurre noisette (brown butter). The scallops are perfectly cooked and seasoned and are fine as is, but once dipped in that light greenish brown butter, heavenly. And those shiitake, confited with awesomeness, pure joy with every morsel. The Perfect dish. The ricotta cream won the dessert round. One of those meals.

Categories: Montreal | Tags: Bouillon Bilk, food, Le Serpent, Ma Poule Mouillée, Montreal, Montreal Eats, Salmigondis, Travel | 1 Comment

Salmoriglio (Agrigento) – Valley of the Awesomeness

Posted on August 31, 2016 by Ziggy

Yesterday I was having lunch with an old friend, and a new friend, and we were discussing my favorite subject in great length, Italy. There was a moment during the conversation where I tried to convey that between all the sights, scenery, and everything that Italy has to offer, at the end of the day my favorite thing to do there is simply eat. Those are the moments that stay with me longer than anything else. I explained how two trips ago, I realized that a day that includes a 3 hour lunch, and a stroll in a small town or winery, is as magical to us than a day filled with sightseeing. The old friend seemed to understand, while the new friend struggled to relate to such nonsense, but did try her best

Take Salmoriglio, a gem in between two of Sicily’s biggest gems. The jaw dropping, magnificent Scala dei Turchi, and the mind blowing, inspiring Valley of the Temples. I was inspired to find water quickly (it was hot), while Mrs Z found her inspiration in the green statue in front the Temple of Concordia. She was very worried that it’s temporary would be missing, and we all dodged a meltdown as big as when the pissing fountain in Prague wasnt pissing. But what made the day so perfect was what we did in between those two star attractions. A meal that was only bested by one particular dinner about 20 minutes off Trapani a few days later. Its just one of those meals that felt so perfect that day. And when you look back at the pictures, and go “hey, remember this octopus?” or “hey remember the Gnocchi?” only to get a “Yes, I remember, now can you stop with your food porn and finish emptying the dishwasher already” Yes dear!

Considering this was lunch in the middle of the week, Salmoriglio in the port town of Porto Empedocle, wasnt exactly buzzing this time. But a quick look at the kitchen, and the empty rooms inside suggests that the place buzzes often. We sat outside on the pleasant sidewalk setup, while a team of 4 cooks carefully and masterfully assemble dishes behind the glass. You get a sense of Michelin type attention to detail without the Michelin prices. No tourists in sight, almost zero English spoken, but we managed fine with hand signals and my ever so improving “Menu Italian”.. “Ahh, “Uova al Forno?” Thats “Menu Italian” for “Are the eggs baked”?

We started with a stunning assortment of raw goodies that included scampi, snapper tartare, bacalao, tuna, oysters, and more of that sweet goodness gambero rosso we couldnt get enough of during the trip. Sliced octopus with olives, capers tomatoes was simple octopus perfection. Gnocchi with bright fresh red sauce, cheese and basil was outstanding. Why similar dishes dont taste the same back home? Ingredients. Their signature spaghetti with Ricci (sea urchin) delivered richness and flavors I haven’t experienced from Ricci before. A plate of grilled seafood including just about the best swordfish steak I ever had, more gambero rosso, scampi, calamari and an outrageously delicious baby octopus. At this point I realized that I prefer the gambero rossos (red shrimp) slightly cooked instead of raw, which gives it a little texture. Raw is great, but sort of too limp in comparison. A truly fantastic meal

Categories: Italy, Sicily | Tags: food, restaurants, Salmoriglio, Salmoriglio Agrigento, Salmoriglio Porto Empedocle, Sicily, Travel | 2 Comments

Macallè – A Gem Well Hidden in Ortigia, Siracusa

Posted on August 17, 2016 by Ziggy

One of the joys of travel to me, not so much to others, is the time spent researching the destination. Reading food blogs, online magazines, finding those obscure dining spots, stores, attractions. That new gelato shop that was just opened by a master ice cream maker and not quite on the tourist trail yet. All part of the fun. Other travelers we talk to derive no pleasure out of this. And for some of them, the research process can be a painful chore, like folding laundry, or changing diapers. Grandpas diapers. The one thing I learned however over the years is that staying flexible and going with the flow is equally as important. And no matter how much research you do, you may somehow bump into a Macallè, a place that makes you look silly, with all that research dimmed just about useless.

Researching Sicily is more challenging than mainland Italy due to lack of information out there. Tourism in general is a fairly new concept for Sicilians, and Italians visiting Sicily. Its like mainland Italy 20 years ago. There are practically no food blogs written by locals. To find the right places you need to make local friends quickly, and in the case of Macallè, friends in high places. After our tour of the market with chef Lele, I was essentially at his disposal. First stop was Pani_Co for some local beer tasting, followed by dinner at Macallè where Lele consults.

Macallè, just like 99% of the restaurants we visited in Sicily, is a family affair. Chef Maurizio, Margherita, and son run a tight ship in a corner of Ortigia not too frequented by tourists. I didnt think its possible on this island but you may not see one tourist walking by in this corner unless he’s lost and trying desperately to get back. When I asked Maurizio how a visitor like me would find this place without the help of a Lele, he said I would need to stay in one of the few area hotels that recommends it. This is the definition of “Hidden Gem”. And while the place gets generally high praise on Trip Advisor, the TA algorithm that takes into account the quantity of reviews, ranks Macallè fairly low as of this writing. In Sicily, more than anywhere else, Trip Advisor is king. Because there’s not much else.

Chef Maurizio created a playful, whimsical take on Sicilian cuisine. He’s very proud and passionate about his ingredients, and in Slow Food style explains where this and that came from and why. The menu options include a “Leave it to Macallè” 30 euro 4 courser which we took advantage of, and a la carte items like the sensational chicken. You will be hard pressed to find a juicier, more flavor packed bird. It was so good we ordered it twice, something as rare as the Olympics. Buttery swordfish, pistachio bruschetta with raw Gambero Rosso (red shrimp) from Mazara and white scampi set the tone nicely early on. Clams with mussels, gnocchi in a delicious clear broth. After several meals on the island, I realize that Mussels is the one must eat especially in the summer. That saltiness and flavor stays with you hours later even at the most inappropriate times! Marinated Squid cooked in three stages, sitting on top of a small hockey puck of mashed potato shows the attention to details here. Perfectly sautéed tuna on a bed of delicious peppers with sweet sautéed onions. To make peppers taste this good requires some work and a lot of love. The kids enjoyed their own Bruschetta (same as ours), the magnificent chicken, and Tagliolini with shrimp and shrimp broth. Easily our favorite meal in Ortigia.

Macallè
Via Santi Coronati 42/44, Syracuse

Categories: Italy, Sicily | Tags: food, Macallè, Macalle Ortigia, Macalle Sicilian Bistrot, Macalle Syracuse, restaurants, Sicily, Travel | Leave a comment

Hell’s Kitchen – Summer Update

Posted on August 11, 2016 by Ziggy

New Ramen, Mexican, Sushi, and Indian Lunch Buffet. Thats right, Indian Lunch Buffet

https://eatingwithziggy.com/2013/06/27/the-hells-kitchen-survival-guide/

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: food, Hells kitchen, NYC, Travel | 2 Comments

Meet the New Mexican Sheriff of Hell’s Kitchen – Tacuba

Posted on August 7, 2016 by Ziggy

Tacuba

November 20, 2016 Update: Three months later, Tacuba of Hell’s Kitchen is clicking on all Chimichangas! A big birthday bash for a close friend last night started with a sound concern, but ended with another fun meal. If you go however, try to avoid Friday and Saturday nights if you can. The word is apparently out (ahem!). There were quite a few large groups there besides the usual turnout, and they can get busy. Tacuba has all the red flags of places I usually avoid. Younger crowd, loud, overzealous vibe sometimes. But the touch of Julian Medina (who I finally met last night) of Toloache fame, gives it this nice balance of food and energy you cant get out of Mexican in Hell’s Kitchen. Nothing new to report food wise. Stick to the Carnitas, Pulpo and the rest of the appetizers. And the drinks here are quite good.

August 7, 2016 Post: To open a Mexican restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen these days requires some major Chalupas. I need to double check with the EWZ stats department but its entirely possible that Mexican is more represented in the Kitchen of Hell than Thai these days. The last couple of years saw Taquerias, Tex-Mex, and all sorts of various sit-downs flood the area. All while old fashioned Mexican bodegas forced to close or transform themselves. So forgive me when I say this, but when I saw yet another Mexican being developed on 9th between 54/53, I said the same thing when they replaced Little Chef with Choza at Gotham West Market. We need another Mexican here like I needed Shingles

Then I find out this is another place from Julian Medina, of Toloache fame. That intrigued me enough to stop wishing for shingles, but not quite enough to make it a priority (sorry Medina). But I needed to try it for myself eventually. Oh and by the way did I mention that spot is cursed? It saw a bunch of places come and go, whose names no one can recall. The only memorable thing about this location saw one of my co-workers get slapped by a former CEO when it was an Italian joint. It was a playful slap, but a slap to the face nonetheless.

But the reason that intrigued me wasnt Medina (sorry again Julian, I owe you a drink), but the fact that with all the Mexican we have in Hell’s Kitchen, I was never truly comfortable recommending any of them to visitors looking for a “Mexican restaurant”. They are all either too authentic, too taqueria, too hole in the wallish, too tex-mex, too chilish, or just simply too suck. I couldnt think of one spot, but I think that’s about to change. There’s this new place opening soon on 10th promising to make Mission style… just kidding Medina (make it a pitcher). I think Tacuba may very well be it.

Talking about Mission, the dish that is simply called Carnitas at Tacuba has that Mission District slow roasted nastiness. It comes with Chicharron (Cracklings), four little tortillas for you to master your taco skills, but thats not all… A beautiful, tangy tamarind habanero salsa that will make you want to dip you car keys into. You may also want to add some sides to go along like the rice and beans, and the unique Avocado Fries. But dont overlook the terrific Sweet Plantains.

The one thing I love about Tacuba is its short, to the point menu. Other than the good looking Ceviche section, they only have about 5 appetizers, which they seem to master. The Guacamole is thick and proper, with chile serrano giving it a little kick. The Zucchini Flower Quesadilla with Burrata, Manchego and kale pesto tastes much better than it sounds. Good luck finding this in your neighborhood Cantina. But the one must eat here for both lunch and dinner is Octopus. For lunch you got a Torta featuring Chorizo, Octopus, and Chipotle Butter. And for dinner (and lunch) Octopus comes on a toasty Tostada with chipotle butter and mezcal. Carnitas Burrito at lunch time is well done as well, other than the accompanying fries that can use some work – I suggested rosemary and garlic chips or something to oomph them up. No Complaints on the desserts and drinks side either. Go!

Tacuba
802 9th Ave (53/54)

Tacuba

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Best Mexican in Hell's Kitchen, food, Julian Medina, Mexican, Tacuba, Tacuba Hell's Kitchen, Travel | 2 Comments

This is Palermo

Posted on August 4, 2016 by Ziggy

Even my Google Maps app was in a confused state as my taxi raced through traffic, seemingly going the wrong way. Our female driver just smiled and said “Welcome to Palermo”. The only time she slowed down was when we passed Giovanni Falcone’s monument for me to take a quick picture. The site of perhaps the most famous mafia assassination in history, which changed Palermo forever. Falcone’s friend and fellow judge Paolo Borsellino who spoke at the funeral, was killed in similar fashion 57 days after his friend’s death. The airport is named after both heroes.

Palermo is misunderstood. Just like most of Sicily pretty much. Its old, its gritty, its congested, and its old! The same can be said to much of metropolitan Europa, but it feels different here. Emphasis on different, which is essentially why we travel. This blogger compares it to India, and I can understand why. Strangely, some of my favorite moments in Palermo came from the times when my daughters were slightly terrified. Like when we witnessed the scene at Mercato Vucciria at night – an intestine, seafood, clubby, smoky BBQ ~~orgy~~ extravaganza. A scene we only see in movies, never in Italy. Different! Like our neighbor restaurant Il Pipino Rosso (the red penis) and its slightly disturbing logo. This heat made me only imagine that when the Pipino committee met to discuss the name, someone showed up with a horrific heat rash.

On this post, I will touch on some of the obvious (markets, churches), and some of the not so (fountain, dog droppings, red penises, etc). You probably already heard about Palermo’s legendary street food and market scene. Panelle, the Sicilian falafel, alone with a drizzle of lemon, or as a sandwich (Pane E Panelle), or with fried potato croquettes (Pane E Panelle Con Croquette Di Patate) quickly became our snack of choice. It sounds and looks bland, but yet another example of “Dont judge a food by its cover”. It also holds true for peaches. The uglier the better, while the most beautiful often come without substance (AKA The Paris Hilton syndrome).

The Sicilian peaches in July are outrageously aromatic and sweet. At the bustling Capo market while I was busy admiring the fishy creatures from Mazara for too long, my family would simply hold a peach 5 meters out to the direction of where I’m supposed to go. But just like with the Oritgia Market, one needs to spend some quality time (alone preferred) with the Rialto-like seafood displays. Make sure to come to Capo early, Ballaro before 13:00, and Vucciria at night for the party. If you’ve seen markets and “shuks” like in Israel and Barcelona, these markets may not exactly shock, but interesting nonetheless.

The usual suspects in Palermo… the magnificent, jaw dropping, slap your sister Cathedral. The awe inspiring, splendid, slap your other sister Cappella Palatina. And the only in Palermo, elegant Oratorios, are reasons enough to spend a few days. The recently Unescoed Cefalu and Monreale nearby means make it 4 days. You will pass by the cathedral a few times, and get mesmerized by its majestic magnificence as if you are seeing it for the very first time each and every time.. staring, admiring, selfying… until you step on dog poop.

Ziggy’s Palermo Dog Poop Survival Guide:

Do not despair. The Palermian dog poop, perhaps due to the seafood and Panelle diet doesn’t smell too harsh. Think 3 week old asparagus meets Bengay. Pick a nice looking square with pretty cobble stones and a place to rest. Chance are there’s some water on the ground there. Have someone in your family pick up little spoons off the ground, the spoons used for granitas and ice crea, they are everywhere. Gently remove the poop with the spoons. Use that bottle of water you are carrying if you have to. The square may have a different meaning to you when you next pass by as it loses its charm a bit, but thats the small price you pay

The summer heat also means discovering things you may otherwise overlook. Like the Orto Botanico di Palermo with its ancient trees (including oldest in Europe), and Zucchini shape trees (Maybe I was just hungry). Its location near the train station also means discovering the Palermo Chinese wholesale district, just in case you need to buy handheld fans for 100 of your closest friends. You can also cool off at the Fontana Pretoria, where up close it transforms into one of the most photogenic fountains in Italy. There’s even a “Costanza Pose”. When I posed in similar fashion on one of the fountain steps, Mrs Z said a policeman watching from the corner whistled to get off. Or was he just admiring? We’ll never know.

Our entire Sicilian schedule centered around one particular event, the Santa Rosalia Festino. This is arguably Sicily’s biggest festival, with concerts, fireworks, races, and various parades throughout the week. And the grand finale, July 14, where the entire town, and 1000’s of tourists come out to see Rosalia slowly parade down Vittorio Emanuele. The energy, the anticipation, the emotion was heart felt. I hope my rabbi will understand

When you take a close look at the history of Palermo, it may seem like everyone and their mother invaded Palermo at some point. Arab influence is more evident here than anywhere else especially when it comes to the wonderful cuisine. They brought in the citrus fruits, raisins, fennel, sugar, and introduced the Arab “Shuks” (markets). You may see some sort of an Arab influence in almost every dish in Palermo and elsewhere.

At Ferro Di Cavallo we started our Panelle relationship, and enjoyed Spaghetti with seafood and a fine spaghetti with squid ink, among other less memorable dishes.

The father and son team of A’Cuncuma dazzled us with colorful flavors, while mom was home with fever. This is Haute Palermo, a playful homage to Palermo classics. We enjoyed more raw Gamberoni, and fresh fish which we couldnt get enough of in Sicily. A duller, lighter version of Pasta Con la Sarde was missing its oomph, but everything else worked ]. In particular, the perfectly cooked Fassone beef from Piedmont. You can’t get this stuff in NYC. The closest is Fassone-like cattle from Montana

Turns out there’s also good pizza in Palermo, like at Ciccio Passami l’Olio. Unlike the rest of Sicily’s notables, here its a lighter, airier fare with cleverly assembled ingredients. Out of the three we tasted, the mortadella with pistachio, tomato and various cheeses stood out. Our favorite Pizza in sicily

But our favorite meal in Palermo came courtesy of La Cambusa. Originally recommended by a trusted waitress from Mercato (NYC) who grew up in Palermo. Being in the center, it does attracts a fair number of tourists, and evidently… clowns. A misunderstanding led to double the house white we wanted (bigger than a bottle) which turned out to be a fun challenge. The previous day in Trapani I ordered a fish sandwich instead of peach juice in a cafe, but my Menu Italian is getting better. As a result of all the drinking, I was desperately trying to avoid eye contact with the clown. Pasta con le Sarde here was outstanding. Same dish featured in the last Travel and Leisure issue (as of this writing). The raisins, fennel, breadcrumbs, pine nuts, sardines resulted in this sweet richness we’ve never tasted in pasta before. Vongole was one of the better Vongoles of a Vongole filled trip. Rabbit loin was tender and juicy, but the branzino baked with potato stole the show among the secondis

Categories: Italy, Sicily | Tags: A'Cuncuma, Ciccio Passami l'Olio, food, La Cambusa, Palermo, Santa Rosalia, Sicily, Travel, travel+photography | 1 Comment

Flavor of the Month – Gazala’s Place

Posted on August 1, 2016 by Ziggy

I will have more about Sicily soon, but meanwhile…

This is a new monthly feature on EWZ that simply features a NYC establishment that I like right now. Not a full blown post as I will spare you the unnecessary details and jokes and simply say GO, and why. And yes, I’m changing the meaning of the conventional usage of “Flavor of the Month” and making it my own

There aren’t that many places more deserving to kick this thing off than Gazala’s. I’ve been going to Gazala’s in Hell’s Kitchen for many years, and only met Gazala a handful of times. Thats partly because for a while Gazala was cooking at the bigger Gazala near the Natural History Museum until she was forced to close it. As a result she spends more time in Hell’s Kitchen these days, especially during lunch time making dinner preparations. Middle Eastern is the proper way of categorizing Gazala’s, but its more than that

At the moment Gazala is in Israel, visiting her family at the Druze village of Daliat el-Carmel, in the north near Haifa. The village where years ago as a young girl she had to make a decision that would shape the rest of her life. The decision to whether follow the religious path or not, as every Druze boy and girl requires to decide. Sacrifices surround each decision, and luckily for us New Yorkers she chose the non-religious path (as most do). This essentially allowed her to travel, and bring us a taste of that druze culture. This may be the only Druze restaurant in the country

Gazala’s Place is not a particularly sexy place. For that go to Room Service across the street where you can swing by their many chandeliers. But if you want some of the best and freshest Hummus in NYC, a Bourekas (like Bourek, flaky pastry stuffed with cheese and other goodies) popular with food tours, and fantastic falafel the size of a small monkey head, come to Gazala’s Place. Her $10 lunch specials alone like the Kafta kebab with outragously delicious chicken, hummus, salad, rice, and Baba ghanoush is the best deal in Hell’s Kitchen. Like the gift that keeps on giving

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Best Middle Eastern in NYC, food, Gazala's, Gazala's Place, restaurants, Travel | Leave a comment

The Joy Suck Club does Blue Ribbon Sushi Columbus

Posted on July 29, 2016 by Ziggy

Someone out there in Denver owes me an American dollar. And I know where she lives! The bet was that taking my immediate extended family (The Joy Suck Club) to something like Blue Ribbon Sushi will be a big flop. Last time I attempted this, we wind up in Rosa Mexicano due to the reluctance of the Denverphile who should pay me another dollar for enduring another meal at Rosa Mexicano. The belief of the Denverite is that Blue Ribbon Sushi is all about that.. Sushi, and blue ribbons and stuff. And that this is simply a disastrous match to the members of some of the pickiest eaters on the planet.

Introducing the Joy Suck Club….

One is so picky that anything remotely slimy will make her puke in her mouth a little. Forget Oysters. I’m talking about mushrooms! She had her first mushroom at the age of 65, and said it was “ok”

One requires everything well well well done. Forget steak! I’m talking about pasta and eggs.

One likes generally everything, but will immediately tell you where you can get this better somewhere else even though he doesnt get out much. “I understand this is prime meat, aged 60 days and perfectly cooked. But there’s this place near where I live who does it better”

One can not handle anything with… whats the word I’m looking for… Flavor. The dish requires zero flavor whatsoever. No sauce, no seasoning. I will take the Spaghetti alle Vongole, without the Vongole please.

And then there’s the one who needs proper lighting to enjoy his meal. And by proper I mean nothing short but stadium power, blinding kind. “This is good, but I cant see anything. I would like to see what I’m eating please”

In other words, everything sucks!

To them we are freaks of nature. “You are eating uncooked meat. Should I call an ambulance now, or you’ll do it later in the middle of the night”. And so with us in the mix I’m constantly looking for that balance. Italian normally works, but gets a little challenging in the theater district (if nowhere near Mercato). At Blue Ribbon I have a secret weapon that the Denverite may not know about. Chicken! And Salmon! Not to mention steak, the sickest fried rice dish in town, and a very full menu. But what I like about Blue Ribbon and large groups more is that I can reserve at any time, and have a family style meal. I’ve done it with co-workers, and now it even passed the Joy Suck Club. The biggest test there is

Blue Ribbon Sushi has been a staple in the Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide, even though depending on how full the moon is, and who you ask, may or may not be in Hell’s Kitchen. But deliciousness has no borders. And Blue Ribbon needs to be in a neighborhood like HK. Blue Ribbon is a chain, but one should not hold it against them. While you can find their sensational oxtail fried rice with bone marrow and omelette downtown as well, they do some things unique to this location. Like the Ika Shoga, simply sauteed squid with ginger and garlic. Why no one else does this is a mystery to me. Its not only a dish I enjoyed many times, but I do get some pleasure from watching people react when they try it for the first time. Mrs Ziggy, kids, and yes, even some members of the club, raved about this one.

For me, family style meals are not about going to Carmine’s and eating 2 oversized dishes shared by 6 people. There’s just so much you can order and share, and the quality of large dishes is almost always poor. Instead, go to any place and simply order as many dishes as necessary of the same thing. Blue Ribbon is great for this because some of their signature dishes like the fried rice, and the squid are very shareable. I once sent a group there (I wasnt invited, just consulted) and pretty much wrote the entire order for them based on how many people were in the party. You want variety, especially with picky eaters. And Blue Ribbon chefs know how to cook

The rest of the meal was a big success with the Suck Club. My secret weapon fried chicken, and the salmon with a light teriyaki glaze worked like magic. The only concern was that the salmon would not be cooked enough for the club, but hey, they ate, and raved about it. I especially loved the smoky bean sprouts and rabe that accompanied the fish. While I’m not the biggest fan of the fried chicken, its almost always a smart order, and I’m slowly warming up to the honey sauce that comes with it. The fried rice is a smash hit as usual, and I’ve essentially already written essays and articles about it. Nightly specials included a fine Nobu-esque rock shrimp tempura, and finer spare ribs. There was plenty of sushi as well, shockingly gobbled up by some JSC members who may not have been aware that they were eating raw fish. And to complete the experience, I was reunited with my favorite Japanese light beer, Hitachino Nest. This did not suck.

Someone in Denver awes me a buck.

Blue Ribbon
6 Columbus, 308 W 58th St (8/9)

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Blue Ribbon Sushi, Blue Ribbon Sushi Columbus, food, Hell's Kitchen Sushi, restaurants, Travel | 3 Comments

Ristorante Al Boccone – Marzamemi

Posted on July 24, 2016 by Ziggy

Sometimes the best laid plans are the ones you make that morning, after Modica coffee, or inside a stunning Baroque cathedral. Not months prior while eating leftover General Tso’s Chicken. To Noto or Not to Noto was the question I’ve been wrestling with the most during planning. Decision was final, until Mrs Ziggy, suffering from a small case of ‘Fish called Wanda‘ syndrome, asked me time and again.. “why arent we going to Noto? Italian men with Italian accents are telling me I should go to Noto”. And so its back to To Noto. And while in beautiful but Baroque Disney Landish Noto, escaping the heat inside that stunning Cathedral (picture below), another thought crossed my mind. Instead of having lunch in Baroque Disney, we will have lunch at the old fishing village of Marzememi, 20 minutes away. Its been 36 hours since our last seafood meal, and my left arm is starting to twitch ever so slightly.

The old village of Marzamemi, a sleeping beauty, where once tuna was trapped and tortured by the numbers. One of the first and most important ‘Tonnaras’ on the island, though the practice is no more (Thanks Obama!). Today, two shirtless men collect two euros to watch your car, restaurants are lined up along the shore, and the old center is now as picturesque as fishing villages get. Surprisingly fairly quiet during the day, even in the high summer. Action picks up at night I was told by our host at Modica. And nice sandy beaches (a luxury on this island) are minutes away in San Lorenzo

But the highlight of the day, as often is the case in Italy, was lunch at Al Boccone. A huge deck overlooking the ocean, with an English speaking young waiter who really cared about our enjoyment. We found this common all over Sicily – owners, workers were grateful and humble that YOU chose THEM, and they are on a mission for you not to regret. An appetizer mix of local specialties including a fine smoked swordfish. Another assortment of cheese and salami was forgettable. Calamari Siciliano was a revelation of sorts, two huge squid stuffed with bread crumbs, more squid, pine nuts and more deliciousness, served in a stew like fashion with tomato and onions. Excellent fresh grilled Amberjack was like a more succulent swordfish. A Busiate-like Trofie (surprised to see Trofie pasta in the part) with tomatoes, basil, pistachio, big shrimp, little shrimp, medium shrimp (top picture) was well balanced and quite exceptional. The one dish I didn’t care for much was spaghetti with bottarga, which tasted incredibly strong after sampling the other dishes (tho oldest didnt mind so much). Fantastic lunch in a most picturesque village

Noto

Categories: Sicily | Tags: food, Marzamemi, Ristorante Al Boccone, Ristorante Al Boccone Marzamemi, Sicily, Travel | 2 Comments

Ortigia Market – A Walk With a Chef

Posted on July 20, 2016 by Ziggy

“I promised Marcello I won’t be taking too many seflies”, said chef Lele while we were gearing up for the second one. My kids would argue that two in 90 minutes suggests that you are fairly close to a comma. But different rules perhaps apply to the island of Ortigia in east Sicily, home to a spectacular Duomo, puppets, mussels, and a pretty nifty market

90 minutes prior we met Lele Torrisi next to the Temple of Apollo, the oldest doric remains in Sicily, 6th century BC, 27th century BI (Before Iphone). The temple is adjacent to what later became our favorite market in Sicily. I already knew chef Lele would sport his chef attire, and I briefly considered all four of us to show up in similar fashion. But it was too hot, and I wasnt too certain about the chef’s sense of humor. I was sporting my spanking brand new Fedora

Turns out I didnt need to worry about the sense of humor part, which made the walk that much more enjoyable. And within minutes, I was an expert. I knew which swordfish was frozen. I knew where the pistachio really come from (hint: Not from here). I knew what the vendors are shouting. Mrs Ziggy knew what to do with the spice pack she’s been hiding in the cabinet for over a year. And I knew how to inspect the fish for freshness. I can already imagine the look on my fishmonger face on my next visit, when he sees me open up those gills with gloves

We also learned about the various seasons. That July is a particular good time to cook in Sicily. That mussels and peaches right now are at their best. Another big lesson that set the tone for us the rest of the trip is not to judge a peach by its cover. The uglier the better. But the highlight came at the end, when we popped into the famed sandwich maker Borderi (if you wear “I love [your name]” t-shirt, you officially made it). And out pops a board of deliciousness, including sensational smoked mozzarella.

Everything about Lele Torrisi reads like the Ferran Adrià of Siracusa. From his time spent in various Michelin powerhouses, including Osteria Francescana and Massimo Bottura, to the more humble times spent with his dad Alfio at Ristorante Dioniso, 10 minute walk from market. The unexpected expected consequences that came out from all of this, is that we ate exceptionally well the rest of our Sircausa stay. Within minutes we were tasting local craft beer (a luxury in Sicily) at one month old Pani_Co, an artsy local wine bar with a full menu. The Alveria American style IPAs turned out to be the best brew we drank in Sicily. And later that night we were dining with locals in the know at Macallè, where Lele serves as a consultant

Lele markets himself these days via Marcello Baglioni’s Agave Travel Creative. Marcello specialty is experiences, “Slow Travel”, memories that stay with you far beyond the memory of seeing yet another church. Instead of just staying at an Agriturismo, he will set you up with various activities, like harvesting (pistachios, olives, grapes). He can arrange an archaeological dig (I’ve done it in Israel, fun), climb Mt Etna with a volcanologist, tour mafia facilities and even go on a “job” with some. Ok, I made the last one up, but you get the idea.

Lele is Agave’s culinary arm, where you can schedule such market walks, cooking classes, and anything you want really (anything!). We could have walked the Ortigia market by ourselves in less than 10 minutes, take selfies with the fish, and ate in other restaurants I planned on. But what kind of memories would have derived from that.