Eating With Ziggy

Da Ruggero {Florence} – “A Good Place to Eat”

Posted on July 28, 2013 by Ziggy

The title of this blog post has a much deeper meaning than it suggests. A meaning I will discuss soon. But first..

When we first decided on a Tuscany/Rome trip in the summer instead of the planned Banff, Canada, I didn’t waste much time and started researching food before I even knew where exactly we are going. Da Ruggero was the first restaurant I read about (on the excellent Elizabeth Minchilli blog) and the first restaurant I added to the itinerary. 3 months later however I found myself struggling to keep it in the itinerary due to its location, but I managed to squeeze in a lunch after Pitti Palace (nice 20 minute walk). A lunch which unquestionably turned out to be the top meal in Florence for us.

When we walked inside one of the first things I noticed gave me a feeling of relief; tattoos. “Why Ziggy did tattoos give you a feeling of relief”. Well I’m glad you asked Timmy! That’s because when I read about this place I saw a few mentions of perfect English coming from the tattooed waiter. You see Timmy, the only Italian I speak is “Menu Italian”. I’m ok with Italian menus and on occasion when we do get English menus I ask for one in Italian just to make sure nothing good is lost in translation. But I cant Incorporate “Menu Italian” into conversation. Except when I learned elementary Italian cursing (while waiting for my International Driver’s Permit imagining being stopped by a cop in Italy). I figured I can utilize “Menu Italian” in phrases like “Tuo padre è un pollo” (Your father is a Chicken). So getting an English speaking waiter means I dont need to struggle and I can enjoy and relax. Of course the opposite is normally true for the waiter(s), but that’s there problem.

I think I digressed long enough this time. Our tattooed friend was pleasantly surprised and reassured us that we ordered all the goof stuff. His great English comes from marrying a Russian, which also means (from experience) that he doesn’t need to make a decision for the rest of his life.

The dishes at Ragurro ranged from Very Good to Andrew Zimmern like facial expressions “This is it” good. Started with another nice crostini with liver, a popular starter in Tuscany. A very pleasant farro salad with asparagus, fresh tomatoes and shrimp was especially liked by Mrs Ziggy. My first Pappa al Pomodoro of the trip might as well have been my last. Delicious! The waiter reassure me that this is one of best Pappas in town. Who knew tomatoes and stale bread can taste so good.

We shared a couple of pastas between the 4 of us and they were both outstanding. An almost see through thin tagliatelle with zucchini flowers and a little bit of heat. And more heat via the Spaghetti Carrettiera, essentially spicy spaghetti. So simple and SO addictive.

For secondi we just shared a pork chop (2 hefty pieces) which turned out more than enough for us. Up until that point our secondis in Florence were less than stellar. This was stellar. I don’t believe I ever tasted a pork chop as moist, juicy and flavorful as this.

On the wall near us we spotted an article by the Seattle Times of all things titled “A good place to eat” touting Mr Ruggero’s restaurant and his cooking. That was 1969. Now in another location, son and daughter are continuing the legacy and judging by the food and the packed house on a Sunday afternoon I would say they are doing a fine job. We were the only tourists there. I can only say it about one other restaurant we visited this trip. Diners included a family with a 4 year who was talking non stop to his uncle about Star Wars. A mother and daughter, an older gentleman wearing a suit. All of which set the scene to one of those memorable meals that remind you why you go to Italy.

Categories: Florence, Italy | Tags: Da Ruggero, Da Ruggero Florence, florence, FLorence dining, Florence restaurants, food, Italy, restaurants, Travel | 6 Comments

Villa Grazianella – Foodie Heaven in Val d’Orcia

Posted on July 26, 2013 by Ziggy

For the past 12 months or so since I started this blog, I deviated from the main subject from time to time. On occasion I would write about a particular play that we saw, or cereal, among other silly things. And although we are very fortunate to be able to feed my other obsession, travel, I have never written about any hotel, B&B or any type of accommodation. In Europe I don’t really care that much for accommodations as I just want a quiet spot and a comfortable bed, even if it means staying outside the city center as we normally do, or getting a room with a view of a brick wall as I opted one time. In Tuscany however I cared a little more and somehow by pure luck scored a villa that left an impression like no other place we visited.

The idea was simple. 5 night stay (later changed to 4) in a place where we can relax a little in the middle of a tiring trip, situated in that classic Tuscan setting we only imagined. Good food and wine was a major plus. We are normally the last people on earth that would spend dinner in a hotel but this is an entirely different ball of wax. Villa Grazianella delivered all that and more in a big way, to the point where we briefly considered extending our stay by another day and cutting our time in Rome short.

When you are situated in a place surrounded by rolling hills, vineyards and complete silence, its impossible to capture that in pictures. Even on the 4th and last morning we found it breathtaking. The villa, a restored former Montepulciano bishop country home, is situated a good (welcome to Tuscany via vineyards) 15 minutes from Montepulciano. However, while most tourists focus on the Val d’Orcia part of the region, the villa is also near the stunning Val di Chiana, or Valdichiana, or the much less sexier name I came up with, “the other side of A1”. Our meal of the trip perhaps just happened to be in that region, 15 minutes from the villa. Much of the vienyards surrounding the villa are their own, Fattoria del Cerro. In fact if you are using a GPS you may be able to find the villa by this name only, although Google can pinpoint “Villa Grazianella” for you

I read about Patrizia’s legendary cooking before we arrived and the plan was to have dinner at the villa on the first night. The dinner turned out to be one the most memorable of the entire trip. Deliciously savory Pappa al Pomodorro, Garganelli with sausage and zucchini ragu one of the yummiest pasta dishes of the trip. Garganneli in NYC restaurants comes in all shapes and sizes due to improper machinery, but this was the Garganelli I know and love. Chicken Cacciatore with green beans just like mamma used to make. Well, not my mamma really. Its just an expression. After that dinner, coming back every night from a different place to a full dining room of guests felt awkward. I had to apologize to Patrizia on a nightly basis and keep reminding her how we enjoyed her cooking. She cooks different items every day of the week by the way. At the pool, fellow New Yorkers were marvelling about her Ravioli form the night before, “best thing we ate this trip”. 2 days later another American couple was describing the singing they heard from the kitchen while the ladies were making fresh Pici, a common Tuscan pasta.

Well I would start singing too if I lived there. Alba, Patrizia, grazie mille! I miss you and hope to see you real soon.

Categories: Italy, Tuscany | Tags: food, Italy, Travel, tuscany, Villa Grazianella | 4 Comments

Roscioli {Rome} – I Dream of Deli

Posted on July 23, 2013 by Ziggy

“United We Stand”, our go to deli by my office in Manhattan which changed its name from “United” after 9/11 cant quite pull this stunt. Nor any of the other delis in NYC numbered in the thousands. It requires special talent, special expertise and a special name which Roscioli got. Not exactly a hidden gem unless your Rome research includes studying Trip Advsior rankings. Roscioli, a deli/Salumeria by day, one of Rome’s top restaurants by night is #742 on Trip Advisor at the moment

Mrs Ziggy thought my trip researching just reached another level when I told her that we can use the bathrooms next door to the Roscioli bakery during lunch since we are having dinner there that night. So I can go in and simply confirm our reservations while everybody uses the bathroom. Brilliant plan! What I didn’t tell her was that it was just a coincidence, or a bizarre 6th ~~bowel movement~~ sense that we don’t know about. The next day my emergency plan was to just enter any random dining establishment and try to confirm our non-existent reservations while the girls use the bathrooms. Of course with the amount of time they normally need, I would be found sitting with a bib around my neck munching on another Cacio e Pepe by the time they came out.

But I digress, again. Roscioli represents everything about why I love going to Italy. Raw material! Roberto from Da Roberto in Mantisi had perhaps the most memorable line of the trip; “I’m not a chef, I’m not a cook. I just present to you the ingredients.” And Roscioli is all about the ingredients.

The first 2 dishes cannot be made at “United We Stand” Deli. A plate of paper thin Mortadella from bologna with 3 year old Parmesan was like eating Mortadella for the very first time. Silky, smooth, salty perfection. Creamy Burrata with semi-dried tomatoes was a dish of the trip nominee, and a reminder that not all black pepper is created equal. I don’t recall sun dried tomatoes as addictive.

What followed was a service misunderstanding. Since we ordered 2 primis and 2 secondis for the 4 of us, the staff assumed that its all one course. Understandable, I suppose. Surprisingly the pastas were the weakest course, although its more of a testament to the quality of the rest of the dishes. A Carbonara was supposedly one of the best in town, but we actually found it a bit too al dente for us, on the 11th day of a pasta filled trip. I’ve had Carbonara and various variations of Carbonara in the US but never quite as al dente as this. Gnocchi Amatriciana was more like it.

Highly doubt our deli even heard about an Austrian Simmental Entrecôte (rib eye if you scoring at home, or even if you are alone) which was perhaps the steak of the trip. Perfectly bloody medium-rare with more flavor than all the Bisteccas we had in Florence and Lucca. Of course all of this meant I get 4 bites, while my 11 year old gets half of it. Meatballs with smoky ricotta was another big winner. Somehow I came out of Italy with an unintended meatball fix instead of the intended Carbonara fix. Meatballs you can get at many delis here in NYC, most likely covered with enough red sauce to compensate for the staleness and fishiness it gets from its neighbor inside the counter. Nice tiramisu and chocolate fondue with fruits to cap a great but most expensive dinner of the trip (160 euros).

Sitting inside felt like sitting in a trendy Soho spot. If you are looking for that Trattoria with locals feel you are not going to get it here. Chances are you’ll be sitting next to other tourists. Either way, you will most likely have an unforgettable meal. Ask if possible to sit in the back or downstairs, as opposed to the front by the counter. I leave you with pictures from both the restaurant and the Rascioli bakery nearby where we sampled some nice pizzas, and a delicious apple strudel.

Categories: Italy, Rome | Tags: food, Italy, restaurants, Rome, Rome restaurants, Roscioli, Roscioli Rome, Travel | 3 Comments

Florence – Scenes from Nerbone and Mercato Centrale

Posted on July 21, 2013 by Ziggy

During dinner an hour ago while we enjoyed ~~overcooked 10% fat flavorless~~ fantastic burgers with fresh mozzarella, I asked the clan what do you remember most from Nerbone and Mercato Centrale. Here are the results:

Child #1: It smelled of fish

Child #2: I need to go to the bathroom

Wife #1: The lines and confusion at Nerbone but fantastic pastas, market with great assortment and display of things like a cows head.

Agree on all counts. For all the food lovers out there, and if you are reading this blog, unless you have a bizarre misspelled words fetish, you probably are a food lover – This is the place to visit in Florence.

Lets start with Nerbone, serving the Cucina Povera since 1874, and I got the picture to prove it. Meaning, the picture of the sign that says since 1874, not a picture from 1874. Don’t believe anyone can dispute that fact. This is a very popular place and you cant really miss it inside the market. You do need to come early (before noon if you can) to beat the crowds and not much later than that as by around 1 to 1:30 they may start running out of things.

You stand on the line leading to the cashier, order the pastas and the sandwiches and pay. At this point you get the pastas on the spot and get a ticket that shows how many sandwiches you ordered. You then need to go on another line leading to the counter on the right, present the ticket, and tell them again the sandwich(es) you want. The ticket will just show the number of sandwiches you paid for. I suggest doing what we did; dispatch the kids to find seats while you wait on line, pay, eat the pastas, then dispatch the wife to get the sandwich (what, I did all the work doing all this amazing research)

Available pastas differ every day. On this day we enjoyed a very good funghi risotto (much better than a risotto we had at a former Michelin star in orvieto later in the trip), a terrific Tagliatelle with rabbit sauce, and an ok Farfale with pesto. On our first full day in Italy we got a little excited with the pastas so only one sandwich to share. A very good Bolitto (boiled beef) with salsa verde (green sauce). Good bread and although I was wishing for more meat, it was an enjoyable Panini. Highly recommend Nerbone Italy - 2013 216

When people ask me, “Ziggy, what in your opinion is the top museum in Italy” simple answer for me really; The Rialto market in Venice. The most colorful, unusual, jaw dropping pieces of art I’ve ever seen. Ok, no one really asked me that question yet. But if anyone ever asks me, that would be my answer (can someone please ask me that question in the comment section, so I can finally use that line in cocktail parties in NYC). Also, can someone please invite me to a cocktail party.

Anyway, really enjoyed walking around this market/museum. I wouldn’t mind coming here on an empty stomach tasting everything in sight. So much better than a Sunday in Costco!

Categories: Florence, Italy, Tuscany | Tags: florence, Florence restaurants, food, Italy, Mercato Centrale Florence, Nerbone florence, restaurants, Travel, tuscany | 3 Comments

Gattavecchi – Flavor Carnival in Montepulciano

Posted on July 18, 2013 by Ziggy

So where to start? Great drives, great scenery, great architecture, great George Costanza like statues, GREAT EATS. What should my first post about this trip be? I find my answer in my wallet. A card from Lilian Oliveira, the passionate Brazilian cook at Gattavecchi. The card momentarily takes me back to Lilian’s kitchen and the moment she gives me the card. You could see it in her eyes, as if she’s saying “You start with me, little man”.

But lets go back for a second, 2 hours earlier for the “Favor” that led us to Lilian. We get one ravioli, a small sample of Pici, Tagliatelle, and Pappardelle that we just made from scratch at our fun cooking class in Le Logge del Vignola. Not enough for a full meal. As good as it was, the idea that we almost ate our own cooking on that gorgeous day in Montepulciano instead of the once in a lifetime La Cucina di Lilian, makes me shiver slightly

The Gattavecchi Cantina, lies just outside the city center, an oasis far away from the tourists, at least it seems. The serene garden setting makes you feel like you’ve just driven 15 kilometers (far away in Tuscan country side standards) to eat here. Step inside and you are transported to a 12th century convent where you’ll find a large convent dining room and the wine cellars. Daniela Gattavecchi, who gave us a little tour, along with her 2 brothers, are 4th generation proud wine makers.

But we are here for the food. 4 outstanding dishes including a best of the trip nominee. The salumi platter was one of the best of a very salumi filled trip. The addictive truffled salami alone elevates this one to another level. Then, best dish of the trip nominee, an assorted Bruschetta plate we’ve never seen – died and gone to Bruschetta heaven. Salsa verde with melted cheese, savory liver pâté (best of the trip – Lilian makes it with wine and fruit), all kinds of great concoctions in a cup including a potatoes-onion-bell pepper thingy (blogger technical term), and my favorite white beans spread with bread and veggies (ribolita?). A plate as spectacular as the views around it

A second course of excellent gnocchi with mozzarella and light tomato sauce, and Taglietelle with Cinghiale (wild boar) ragu, a carnival in my mouth, capped this memorable meal. All washed down of course with a great tasting of Gattavecchi’s Rosso di Montepulciano, Nobile di Montepulciano, and Nobile Riserva.

One unforgettable moment was a visit to Lilia’s kitchen. It didnt take long to see that passion and realize that “We are not in Kansas anymore”, or NYC where I’m from. You just dont see this in an ordinary looking place like this in America where you may see perhaps 2 people chatting about the new record they just set in Doodle Jump on the last smoking break. In comparison, you have an army, a team led by a passionate cook that will not let anything less than perfect leave that kitchen. A kitchen filled only with the freshest, and finest raw ingredients. An eye opener.

Cant recommend this gem in Montepulciano highly enough. And special thanks to the local who recommended it. You know who you are

Categories: Italy, Tuscany | Tags: food, Gattavecchi, Gattavecchi Montepulciano, Italy, Montepulciano, Montepulciano restaurants, restaurants, Travel, tuscany | 5 Comments

Italy – The Itinerary

Posted on July 15, 2013 by Ziggy

So we just came back from 12 days traveling in beautiful Italia. I was asked a few times already for the complete itinerary so figured I might as well post it here.

Short Version: Florence 3 nights, Pick up car, Lucca 1 night, Villa near Montepulciano 4 nights, Rome 4 nights

Long Version:

Day 1) Florence – Got to the hotel (Palazzo Alfani – no complaints) around noon. Quick lunch at Pugi pizza. Just strolled around the center mostly, great ice cream at Carabé, visited Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Palazzo Vecchio (must) along with an easy climb of its tower. Good dinner at Sostanza

Day 2) Florence – Fantastic full day. Duomo climb in the morning (a must!), Duomo museum, Bargello gallery, lunch in Nerbone at the Central market, stroll around the market (must), Santa Maria Novella, Procacci for snack/drink, Carapina for ice cream (perhaps best of the trip) lovely dinner at La Pentola

Day 3) Florence – David at athe Accademia (across the street from the hotel), Pitti Palace + gardens, Lunch at Da Ruggero, Santa Croce church we found closed for an event. Good Ice Cream at dei Neri, the great synagogue, Basilica di San Miniato al Monte (must!), Piazzale Michelangelo, dinner at Osteria San Niccolò (meh)

Day 4) Lucca – Picked up car in Florence. Stayed in Alla Dimora Lucense for the night. All sorts of snacks for lunch between 2 place right near each other, Da Felice and Giusti. Toured Lucca’s old town all day including biking the walls. Dinner at Barrala

Day 5) Pisa/Volterra/Villa Grazianella. Drove to Pisa, then Volterra where we took a private tour with a local, Annie Adair from Tuscan Tours. Lunch with Annie at l’incontro. Drove to Villa Grazianella near Montepulciano and spent the rest of the day there at the pool. Great dinner at the Villa where we stayed for 4 nights

Day 6) Villa Grazianella. Drove all over the region. Started with cheese tasting and tour at the Il Casale farm (must), Drove to Abbey of Sant’Antimo stopping at Bagno Vignoni on the way. Lunch at Il Pozzo in S. Angelo In Colle. Quick stop at Montalcino followed by a visit to spectacular La Foce villa and 5 pm tour. Dinner at La Porta in Monticchiello

Day 7) Villa Grazianella. Pasta making cooking class at Le Logge del Vignola in Montepulciano, toured the town, lunch at Gattavecchi (wow). Visited the towns of San Quiricio and Pienza. Dinner at Da Roberto in Montisi

Day 8) Villa Grazianella. Day trip to Sienna. Lunch in La Tellina. Drive to Asciano for the views. Dinner at Piccola Trattoria Guastini in the village of Valiano

Day 9) Rome. Heavy regret for not staying one more night in the villa. Drive to Rome, with a major stop in Orvieto on the way. Check into our hotel in Rome, Trastevere Colors (4 nights). Dinner in the Testaccio district. Pizzeria da Remo, followed by some snacks in 00100 Pizza.

Day 10) Rome. Just walked around the Pantheon and Trevi area. Lunch in La Campana. Borghese gallery, Spanish Steps. Dinner in Le Mani in Pasta

Day 11) Rome. Colosseum, Forum, walk to campo for the market. Snack in Roscioli Bakery, Il Farno campo, Monti area including Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, and moses in San Pietro in Vincoli. Dinner at Roscioli

Day 12) Rome. Vatican including garden tour. Lunch in Il Sorpasso, Piazza Navona, the great synagogue, dinner in Cesare al Casaletto

Day 13) Staten Island, NY ;( Walked around Trastevere area in the morning. Fly back home

Categories: Italy, Tuscany | Tags: florence, Italy, Italy itinerary, Rome, Travel, tuscany, Tuscany itinerary | 6 Comments

Turks and Caicos – Top Seven Large Bites

Posted on July 11, 2013 by Ziggy

As published in the current issue of WhereWhenHow, this is a follow up to the Top Seven Small Bites

Who said that Providenciales is an expensive destination? I did! Approximately 14 times while eating with the kids on our last trip. Gone are the kiddie menu days almost overnight for the Ziggy clan, much to the chagrin of my wallet.

Does this sound familiar? One minute your 10 year old is eating the international kiddie specialty known as Penne with Butter, and next thing you know she is ordering Garganelli with conch and clams, after just discovering that she’s also into Escargot.

Or, one minute both of your kids are sharing a steak (with daddy). Fast forward 8 months later, your 60 pound youngest wants none of that sharing nonsense. The last time she got a kiddie menu, she asked me to leave no tip and write a review on Trip Advisor about the various service issues of the establishment.

So I’m feeling the pinch. And as a result, I already told the kids that they would need to rely on their grandparents for continued education. I told them that while sipping through a straw of my $16 + Tip + tax drink at my resort.

Of course I’m being just a tad melodramatic. Providenciales or “Provo” if you don’t want your iPhone to correct it to “doomsday” or something else that makes no sense (its a mysterious thing this auto-correct) can be as expensive as you want it to be. As I’m about to point out you can have your pick of deliciousness from white cloth to no cloth, from sommelier to.. {shrug} no sommelier. And the good thing about traveling with kids when they are grown up is that you get to share and try a few things as a family.

But I’m not here to audition for “Mommy and Me Magazine”. I’m here to write about 7 large bites as a follow up to the 7 small bites from the previous issue. Can daddys even write for “Mommy and Me Magazine”? Does such a thing even exists? Great, now this is going to bother me for the rest of the day.

At any rate, here are the top 7 large bites from our last trip

Pecan Crusted Conch at Bay Bistro – Schnitzelicious Bliss! Lights Out! Or until we realized we accidentally leaned against the light switch and turned off the lights at the patio. True story! Like a beautiful conch schnitzel, with a mild but potent orange sauce. Its a consistent crowd pleaser for adults and kids alike. Island historians can tell you what happened with the failed Coconut crusted conch with curry experiment.

Strong contender: Grilled lobster (in season)

Best End of Milk Fed Lamb at Seven – Benny Hill? Downton Abbey? Its not exactly clear what motivated the British to name the lamb’s back of the neck differently than the rest of the world. But it IS clear that it can be delicious, and that chef Josu knows what to do with it. Three tender, perfectly cooked (medium rare) neck filets accompanied by all sorts of glorious goodies, too many to mention (i.e Blogger lingo for “I forgot”). And its great to have the knowledgeable Alan Daffy on the floor to make sure everything is running smoothly and remind you what you are eating while under the (fine wine) influence.

Strong contender: Duck breast

Caribbean Platter at Sailing Paradise – A more than worthy schlep just for the plate, and the serene waters and colors of Blue Hills an added bonus. Addictive, tender, juicy, spicy, tastes much better than it looks, Jerk Chicken. Same idea applies to the jerk pork, and if you did not get the homemade Jamaican sauce to add even more pleasant heat than ask for it. Add the wonderful lightly fried fish, rice and peas, plantains and you got yourself a dish. But we aren’t done yet. The glorious goat curry, with all its bony glory requires its own space. Maneuvering through these bones was a succulent adventure. After the meal at the airport we were smelling our index fingers like in a gynecologist convention. (Ahem… Brenda/Kathi, under the belt? ;))

Strong contender: Get the platter!

Tagliolini with Seafood at Caicos Café – White smoke rising from the chimneys of Caicos Plaza signals a new menu at Caicos Café. While black smoke rising suggests someone just burned a toast. Savory fish, scallops, shrimp, mussels, flambéed with Pernod and a lot of love. An Emilia Romagna classic in Providenciales.

Strong contender: Orecchiette (Mike Tyson’s favorite pasta)

Steak au Poivre at Le Bouchon – soi le bienvenue Pierrik and family. A gorgeous rendition of the French classic that normally no one talks about nor knows how to spell, like the 4th and 5th Kardashians. Perfectly cooked, flavorful steak with a deliciously light peppercorn sauce that made me dip the fries, bread and fingers into it. A month before, a similar dish in a renowned similarly named Bouchon in Las Vegas was double the cost and half the flavor. Well Done Pierrik!

Strong contender – Burger with egg (for lunch only – ask for the egg) (Brenda, I’m pretty sure its only available for lunch, I didn’t see it on the dinner board)

Lamb Burger at Lemon – What to order in Lemon is always a challenge for me. A good dilemma. Unlike the choice you have to make before leaving the house on a rainy day between the pink polka dot umbrella, and the one with the yellow circles. Which one makes you look more manly (Mrs Ziggy if you reading, it would be nice to have a plain black umbrella around the house. I have a second job now writing for a major magazine and I dont have time for matters like this. Love, Ziggy). But I digress. An excellent lamb burger! Lamb, hummus, cucumber mint yoghurt, brie, play together like a beautiful symphony with every morsel. Add the delicious roasted potatoes and you got a great dish.

Strong contender: Mushroom Risotto with Pork

Curry Grouper at Flamingos. A customary 10 minute moment of silence normally follows after the dish arrives, reminding us why we come to Turks and Caicos year after year. An Island legend at an Island institution. You will be hard pressed finding a piece of fish with texture more perfect. Sweet, savory, melt in your mouth goodness. Like eating delicious butter. This was love at first bite, and a regular dish since.

Strong contender: No idea! But was told the similar coconut grouper is as good if not better

So there you have it. 7 memorable big bites from our last trip. Enjoy your trip and stay hungry my friends

Categories: Turks and Caicos | Tags: food, Providenciales, Providenciales Dining, Providenciales restaurants, restaurants, Travel, Turks and Caicos dining, Turks and Caicos Restaurants | 4 Comments

The Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide

Posted on June 27, 2013 by Ziggy

Updated: January 29th, 2020

Although the emphasis was on the “Hell” part initially, as in the only place potentially hotter than hell, Hell’s Kitchen today boasts some of the city’s most incredible array of kitchens. It wasnt always the case (hence the title) and there are plenty of naysayers out there that still live in that past. But the neighborhood is rapidly changing, and despite gentrification, 9th avenue and around is a food lover paradise. Its a beautiful mishmash of world cuisine, with Thai, Mexican, Ramen, and Korean dominating these days, pretty much in that order. After working in the area for 20 years, and running food tours during the last four, I’ve written a guide with a map to help you out…

Food Tours of Hell’s Kitchen, East Village and Brooklyn

Best Dishes in Hell’s Kitchen

Best Tacos in Hell’s Kitchen

Top Pre-Theater Options

Food Halls

Gotham West Market – Perhaps the coolest thing ever to open in Hell’s Kitchen. In a city suddenly flooded with all sorts of food halls, this is one of the more intimate, and less visited ones. Main reason being the tourist free zone of 11th and 45th, making it more of a neighborhood stop. Only about 9 high quality vendors, and a bicycle shop. Ramen, Italian, Seafood, pizza, great ice cream and more.

Middle Eastern

Middle Eastern – Gazala’s Place. Fabulous Druze cooking. Some of the best Hummus in town (I’ve spent plenty of time in Israel including the druze village where Gazala Habibi came from). The place is slightly larger a hers and hers closet (in my house at least. I count my blessings to have 2 shelves left for myself). The Bourekas with goat cheese and sun dried tomato is always solid.

Gourmet Middle Eastern – Taboon. One of the most successful, long running hidden gems in the area. A fine “Middleterranean” menu created by Israeli chef Efi Nahon. Try any of their bread specialties baked in their Taboon oven, and the Silan (below), one of my favorites desserts in the city. Taboon Silan

Doner Kebab/Turkish – Turco. This is perhaps the closest thing we have to the Berlin style Doner Kebab (Turkish immigrants in Germany made it the most popular fast food snack since the invention of the Speckpfannkuchen and Zwiebelkuchen). The main culprit is that thick, crispy tasty pita bread that holds its own. I slightly prefer the chicken over the lamb but you should try both.

Asian

Momofuku – Bang Bar. Leave it to David Chang to make lines fun, and for a $5 snack no less. Oddly situated in the Columbus Shops at the Warner Center, its worth the short trek for the spicy pork “U”. And for a price of a Halal cart lunch its… I’m saying it… a Bang for your buck. Get it? Because its called Bang.

Sushi – Uogashi. Perhaps the Holy Grail in Sushi deprived Hell’s Kitchen. An East Village import that shuttered in EV after a building fire in 2018. The space housed a different sushi place which explains why it took me 6 months to find it. From the freshness of the fish (Uogashi means fish market) to the quality of the rice, its not only the best in HK today but some of the best Sushi I’ve had in NYC.

Korean – Danji. One of the more reliable old guards, and best Korean in Hell’s Kitchen. Chef Hooni Kim can flat out cook. He travels to Korea multiple times a year to gather inspiration. Best Tofu dish in town. And you will be hard pressed to find better chicken wings and sliders in the area. Michelin people agreed (initially ta least), rewarding it a star soon after opening.Ramen – E.A.K. Cant decide between Chicken or Pork based broth? Why not try a blend of both. Its the first successful infiltration of IEKEI (pronounced EAK) style Ramen in NYC, albeit on tourist heavy restaurant row (46th) for some reason. So far I’ve enjoyed the Oh So Hot with spicy Miso so much that I’m having trouble ordering anything else. Skip the boring $3 extra appetizers they offer for lunch.

Ramen – Totto Ramen. Shoe box setting and potential long waits adds to the charm at the original. Just write your name on the board outside (Not Seymore Butts – already done) and wait. Order the spicy Ramen, add the egg and you are all set. Newer, bigger Totto located a block away 464 West 51st. Less wait if any than the original

Ramen – Ippudo Westside. Perhaps the most exciting HK opening in 2013. One block away from Totto and others making HK a NYC Ramen powerhouse. Just like Totto, this is an experience, but a little different. Its bustling, noisy, energetic, and that’s just the wait inside and out. Clearly my favorite here so far is the Akamaru Modern, but you must add the egg, and for a little more spice the spicy miso paste. Highly recommend this one

Japanese – Blue Ribbon Sushi. Not all chains are created equally. This is far from Applebee’s. And depending on who you ask, and the day of the week, this is not exactly in Hell’s Kitchen but close enough (Yelp thinks that it is). Its located in the SIXTY Hotel on Columbus Circle (on 58th st). Whether you are a sushi lover is irrelevant in this case. Good fried chicken, steaks, and the sick oxtail fried rice alone is worth the price of admission. And other goodies such as the excellent Ika Shoga (sautéed squid), and Kanpachi Usuzukuri (amberjack sushimi) worth detouring.

Thai – Pure Thai Cookhouse. Not your average NYC Thai food among a plethora of all kinds of great Thai on 9th. No drunken noodles, no red curry, no green curry and not even purple curry on the menu. What you do get is something a bit more authentic with all sorts of complex flavors and extra heat. Read the post for what to order. Try the ribs, Pork with curry paste, Ratchaburi crab and pork with dry noodles, and the pumpkin or Mango custard with coconut sticky rice off the board (may not be on the menu)

Pure Thai Ratchaburi

Thai – Taladwat. The new kid on the Thai block is a possibly the most important opening in Hell in the last few years. Thats because its the latest from David Bank and his wife, the owners of Pure Thai Cookhouse, and its three times bigger. The menu focuses on 20 or so small plates covering a wide array of protein. You have the option of getting two for $16 for lunch (a bit more for dinner). So far the Crabmeat Tom Turmeric is the winner

Thai – Pam Real Thai. I was hesitant to add this one for too long, partly due to having two Thai places on the list already. But.. a) Many EWZ readers have already been to Pure and/or Larb Ubol, b) The Oxtail Soup, and c) Just about everything else I’ve had here is pretty darn good. Setting redefines minimalistic, and the place could use some refreshing, but I dont go there for the decor. Try the Pad Kra Prow (w/shrimp), Pad Prik Khing, Khao Soi, best Kee Mao Seafood in the hood, and the Oxtail Soup which is just about my favorite soup on the planet.

Chinese – Gourmet Szechuan 56. By far the best Chinese in the area. Like Pure Thai, Spice level significantly higher. Loving the Shredded Beef w/ Asian Spicy Green Chili especially. Update Jan 30, 2020: Now Rong Cheng House. Still Szechuan(ish) but havent tried the new space

Chinese – Le Sia. Its one of those rare situations where I add a place to the guide before my first visit. I’m well too familiar with Le Sia in East Village and what these guys are capable of. Expect fiery Chinese style crawfish/crab boils, BBQ skewers, and the type of authenticity the neighborhood isnt used to. The most important Chinese opening in Hell’s Kitchen in a long time. Le Sia Crawfish

Chinese/Dumplings – Kung Fu Little Steamed Buns Ramen. A little piece of Chinatown on the border of Hell’s Kitchen, steps away from Times Square. Contrary to what the name suggests, this place isnt known for its ramen, but for its soup dumplings. The place is tiny, and at peak hours there could be a line but it moves quickly. Communal tables add to the fun, but try not to squirt that dumpling soup juice on your neighbor. Unless its a Broadway actor

Indian

Indian – Saar Indian Bistro – My little Indian rule of thumb – pay special attention to the latest from Indian master Hemant Mathur (Malai Marke, Chote Nawab and many more). The dude just knows how to cook and how to hire them. He finally opened one in the Kitchen in 2018, making Saar instantly the most important Indian in the area, and very different than the rest. Its a nice bridge between a curry house and gourmet Indian. Try the Chicken kebabs, Cauliflower Latkes, Butter Chicken, and Pepper chicken

Italian

Dell’anima – Italian is the one thing that is lacking in the area even though there are now three of them on this list. That makes this West Village import at Gotham West Market one of the most important openings of 2019. Try the signature Tajarin Carbonara, and the chicken

Italian – Mercato. This is quickly becoming not only my favorite Italian in the area but my favorite restaurant in the area. Truly flavorful, mostly authentic southern Italian (from south Italy, not south Staten Island) dishes like the excellent homemade Trenette (below) with garlic, almonds, tomato and basil. A cozy Trattoria, with an all Italian staff. Check out the simple spaghetti, the meaty gnocchi, Sardinian specialties, and look for any specials like the excellent Cavatelli

Italian – Il Melograno. A lot of mediocre Italian in the area. This is not one of them. No frills, small, cheap(er) Trattoria sitting in a location where its almost impossible to survive unless you are doing something right. Owner from Brescia, no stranger to Northern Italian cooking. Try the Pappardelle with sausage and truffle oil. In the warmer months locals flock to their sidewalk wine bar Il Baretto on 11th.

American

Wine and Cheese bar – Casellula. Great wine and.. you guessed it.. Pork Ass sandwiches. No joke! Small, not the prettiest bar but the food more than makes up for it. Just leave it to them to make you a cheese and meat assortment with some vino and enjoy those asses

Bar/Gastropub – Shorty’s. Calling this a Gastropub may be a stretch, but you do come here for the Philly Cheesesteak. I’ve had it in Philadelphia, and I can assure you that this is the real deal. Same bread (arrives daily from “Le Bus” in Philly and finish baked in house), same steaks, same Whiz, same style, same everything. Owner apparently was part owner of the great Tony Luke’s in Philly. If you never had one, you are in for a messy treat.

Burger – Farm to Burger. Good burger places come and go here. Ans this very hidden gem in the Aliz hotel just came. I’ve only tried one burger here so far and it was good enough to earn the crown. The not as sweet as it sounds Honey Bee might be the best burger in the kitchen.

Farm to Table – The Marshal. One of the most exciting additions to the neighborhood in recent years. They have a relationship with 14 local farms whose ingredients fill much of the seasonal menu. Just about everything they do, they do well. From the terrific french loaf, to the meatloaf and roast chicken, to the ice cream sundae. Ditch the diner and go to this neighborhood spot to experience American cuisine at its finest The Marshal - Meatloaf

Pizza

NY Slice – Sacco. An old timer. No 99 cent slices here (more like $2.50), but a NY slice as good as it gets

Slices – Corner Slice. Gotham West Market now serves delicious airy Sicilian squares by dough wizards backed by Ivan Ramen

Neapolitan Pizza – Don Antonio. Opened by two Naples veterans who know a thing or 3 about pizza. One of them also owns the popular Keste in the village. Try the slightly fried Montanara that no one else does, and my fave Diavola boasting the best sopressata in town.

Pies – Capizzi. A solid alternative to the Don Antonio, John’s craziness and perhaps the closest thing to a pizza parlor you can only find in the outer boroughs. The ingredients speak for themselves, like the bright, fresh tomato sauce and the extra meaty pepperoni and sausages Capizzi

Latin

Empanadas – Empanada Mama. Empanadas are like little patties, and should be on everyone’s area walking tour. Try the spicy chicken, the meaty Brazil, and before you try the Viagra make sure there’s ample space between you and the person in front of you. Hmmm, this sounded much funnier in my head.

Ecuadorian – Nano. This hole in the wall on 10th has some serious “nona” action going for it. Try the homey Caldo de Bola soup which made the Best Soups in HK cut. For lunch you got various deals that include the Seco de Pollo, chicken strips in a mild but pleasant gravy, and Sango de Res, beef in a soup like green plantain sauce, among all kinds of other surprises

Peruvian – Inti. 10th ave is the new 9th ave. Can someone go here please? Anyone? Bueller? Its always empty during lunch for some reason and it would be a real shame if it closes. A Pio Pio alumni with a twist. And the twist being ~~empty~~ ceviche. Great looking and tasting Ceviche Mixto (below), Fresh fish chunks, shrimp, octopus and calamari with red onions, cilantro and rocoto hot pepper. Add sweet potatoes for much needed contrast and the traditional baby corn and you got yourself a winner. Or try the always reliable Rotisserie chicken

Peruvian/Large Groups – Pio Pio. Ok, I give up. Pio Pio is a chain. In fact I think the official name for this one is Pio Pio 8, or something like that. It’s also not the best Peruvian in the area (Inti gets my vote), and it wont win any James Beard or Z-List awards any time soon. But whenever I’m asked the question I loath the most by my employer. A last minute place for a large group that is not only affordable but will make everyone happy, this is the first place that comes to mind. Good drinks, rotisserie chickens, and much more.

Dominican – Lali. Read this while listening to this. Ready? Lets go. Home cooking cant get any more homey than this. Small, Diner-ish, Reggaeton music blasting in the background to help you chew and move, and the two lovely nonnas serving including Mrs Lali herself. You get what’s available today which will normally include some sort of stew, chicken, or ribs. Go for the braised chicken if available, or the beef stew, with rice and beans of course. Breakfast and lunch only.

Mexican – Tulcingo Del Valle. With all the fancy Mexican popping in the area during the last decade, this 20 year old Pueblan still feels like the last of the neighborhood bodegas. No shortcuts, fresh or bust approach is the reason people keep coming back. Its a very full and challenging menu but the tacos, especially best in the hood Al Pastor, are always solid. Veggie Publan specialties like Chile Relleno and Mole Poblano are fantastic, and dont leave without trying the flan.

Mexican – Alan’s Kitchen Mexican Cuisine. This one is a tentative addition as its new and I’ve only been once, but the Carnitas here are Mission-esque (Mission District is a Mexican paradise of sorts in SF). The tacos are so good I hear Los Tacos nearby are changing their name to #2.

Mexican – Tacuba. I realize that there’s a better chance seeing Lindsay Lohan win an Oscar than seeing tourists (without guides) in one of those last remaining bodegas/hole in the walls deeper in the area. This is the latest from Julian Medina of Toloache fame. And everything I’ve tried so far from the octopus sandwich for lunch to the Carnitas for dinner suggests GO!

Misc

Ethiopian – Meske. This is a fun place for groups. Just order a bunch of plates and watch them create the plate of dreams. Use the spongy Injera bread below to scoop up all those goodies. Queen of Sheba practically next door also worth considering Meske

Diners. Westway Diner for a classic NY diner

Bakeries/Cafes/Sandwiches

Sandwiches – City Sandwich. Sorry I have to use that “one of the city’s best” again. From Naples to Lisbon to the huge Portuguese community in Jersey, comes some of the best bread in the area, with some of the most unusual ingredients like blood pudding, sandwiches worthy of a run-on sentence. Just try to study the huge menu ahead of time so you dont feel pressured or confused once there. I like some of the egg sandwiches (egg based sandwiches got its own section) like Bench Girl, and of course the only on Tuesday, porky Roberto

Café/Bakery – Bibble & Sip. One of the new kids on the wrong side of the block. Technically just outside of HK but deliciousness sees no borders! A place where you can unwind and BS all you want (it says so right on their logo). The Earl Grey Banana Bread is quickly gaining neighborhood fame. Add the Earl Grey Panna Cotta (notice a theme?), Matcha Cream puffs, scones, the morning egg sliders and all sorts of rotating daily goodies.

Bakery – Sullivan Street Bakery. Talking about no brainers. Another “One of the best in town” and the source to many top restaurant’s bread baskets like Scarpetta and Maialino. Try some of the bread, the spectacular Canottos (the sweet ones), Bombolonis (donuts on crack), and the chocolate almond croissants. Many love their pizzas but its the other stuff that makes me go there almost weekly these days Sullivan Street Bakery

Café – Rex. The new kid on the block and by kid I mean Rex, the hardest working baker in HK. And only 3 years old! Ok, not really, he’s 4 now! Ok, not really again, his father helps out a little but still. Great coffee, scones, and muffins like the Morning Glory.

Bagels – Pick-A-Bagel. Ess got nothing on these guys. This is by far my favorite bagel place in the area, and trust me I’ve looked. A good place to try the walnut raisin spread but I normally go for a simple bagel with butter. Muffins are great in size and taste, and the only place that has Ziggy’s fave banana nut. Its a great concept: You say “Bagel” and they pick one for you. 🙄

Cupcakes – Huascar & Co. Bakeshop. Cupcake wars champion and one of the nicest, friendliest people you’ll ever meet.

Pies – Little Pie Company. While everyone is obsessing with cheesecakes, those in the know come here for the insane Sour Cream Apple Walnut Pie.

Fresh From Hell. Quite a few healthy places surprisingly closed the past few years like Mooncake Foods despite being popular. But tiny takeout FFH is a solid new alternative with fine sandwiches featuring Sullivan bread, and the best split pea soup this side of wherever they make the best split pea soup.

Fresh from Hell

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Best food in Hell's kitchen, food, Hell's Kitchen NYC, Hells kitchen, NYC dining, NYC food, NYC restaurants, restaurants, Travel | 47 Comments

Moldova – Mamaliga Bliss in Brooklyn

Posted on June 23, 2013 by Ziggy

While you are Googling Mamaliga, some facts about its origin and mine. The Republic of Moldova is nicely nestled between behemoths Ukraine and Romania. According to National Geographic the people of Moldova are the saddest people in the world. Coincidentally, the happiest people are supposedly ex-Moldovans. Well, something ~~both of~~ you readers may not have realized but according to my bio, I, Ziggy, am one of those ~~proud~~ ex-Moldovans.

I was born in Kishinev, the capital but only because the city we lived in, Argeyev (aka the second saddest city in the world) didn’t have much of a hospital. Sadly (dah!) I dont really have many food memories, so whenever I talk about Ratatouille Moments they are definitely not from childhood. We were lucky to just get essentials like toilet paper and vodka. All my fondest memories were about getting in trouble. When I was about 5 years old, I discovered what every normal Moldovan child discovers at this age.. Nicotine! So I started smoking (this is a true story btw) mainly socially, never at home, and never more than a pack a day (ok, although true I’m exaggerating just a bit). I was smoking until the day I decided to smoke one at home in the balcony (in the saddest country in the world, kids are left home alone at a very early age). To make a long story short, my grandma came home, found the cigarette, told my dad, I peed a little when he called my name but all he did was tell me not to do it again (he may have been proud of me). Well, I havent smoked since. Besides wearing a patch to day care (aka the second saddest day care in the world. Our daily highlight was to go outside and look at the giant factory pipes) for the first month as a 6 year old, quitting was surprisingly easy. So whenever my friend Joel boasts about how he’s cigarette-free for 14 months or whatever that number is now, I always say the same thing… “36 YEARS!!”

With that said, I may be more familiar with Sri Lankan cuisine than Moldovan, I think. I never really thought about what Moldovan food really is as I always assumed its pretty much like Russian (with some Romanian influence) food and I still sort of do to an extent.

I went to Moldova the newish restaurant in Brooklyn with a large group last week. Everything ordered was family style so I didn’t even look at the menu. In true Russian form, they start you off with a large array of salads where a nice Babaganoush-like eggplant salad was one of the standouts. But the most memorable app was the Fasolita, a yummy mashed bean paste with roasted onions and oil. I never heard of it and pretty sure they invented the name.

But you come here for the Mamaliga. Polenta on steroids! Our family style version was a massive piece of cornmeal, but what you would normally get is a smaller piece of Mamaliga in the middle of a plate surrounded by an assortment of meat, cheese, sour cream, and egg. In our case it was more like a glorified side dish to compliment the mixed grill consisting mainly of 2 things. Mititei is something I grill at home on occasion. It’s a mix of ground beef, pork, lamb with herbs and spices rolled into a hotdog size kebabs. Unless you overcook them it comes out really nice and juicy and this was cooked right. And so was the Costita, basically a nicely spiced pork chop and this one was very flavorful. Very often with large groups those things come out dry but here it was nice and moist.

Dessert of cherry and prunes with nuts blintses was a nice finish although missing some ice cream perhaps. A terrific meal overall. Although the cuisine doesn’t deviate much from the regular Russian fair, everything was prepared well and tasted great. And the lively environment is a nice reminder that you are not in Moldova anywhere. Although I do hope things are different there nowadays, and 5 year olds have a tougher time finding cigarettes

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: food, Moldova Restaurant, Moldova Restaurant Brooklyn, NYC dining, NYC restaurants, restaurants | 8 Comments

The NoMad – Chronicles of a Chicken

Posted on June 20, 2013 by Ziggy

The war is still ongoing. Hours before our dinner reservations at the NoMad I asked the trusted folks at the Chowhound forum the simple question: “To Chicken or not to Chicken”. Meaning, should I order their famous chicken dish considering…

a) It costs $79 (its for 2)

b) Its Chicken

Well, the overwhelming response was Yes, with a few Nos (including a resounding No 2 weeks after I already had it), and 1 “order what you feel like”. Considering chicken is not exactly something I’m ever in the mood for, I needed a little help with this one.

The NoMad, not to be confused with Nomad (you see the difference? These are in fact 2 different restaurants in NYC) is a 1 year old Daniel Humm and Will Guidara venture at the NoMad hotel. Eleven Madison Park light if you will (same duo behind that). Once inside there’s no mistaking that you are dining in a hotel. Your look most likely will determine the room they will sit you at. Apparently we look like ladies who lunch! Since it was sort of early (5:30 mind you, before Vanya, Pasha, Boris..er whatever its called. I don’t subscribe to the “you must eat in the theater district before a show” policy), there was plenty of light out, and with that glass ceiling this room was very well lit. For a while it felt like we were moved from one waiting room to a fancier waiting room. But I didn’t mind it so much. Within 30 minutes or so were suddenly surrounded with tourists, so I guess they confused us for ” tourist ladies who lunch” or something like that.

But the food was quite good. They start you off with their terrific freshly baked Focaccia-like flatbread with rosemary, sage, and a little bit of salt. Toppings change seasonally. This is perhaps as good as it gets as far as restaurant bread goes. Tagliatelle with king crab, lemon and black pepper was savory, with plenty of meaty crab to go around. But the egg stole the app show. Poached with asparagus, brown butter and quinoa, holy smokes it was good! The asparagus alone is worth the price of admission, and that grainy quinoa really tied everything together beautifully. Fantastic dish, as I say to the swedes to the right.

And then came the main event. They first present you the whole cooked chicken like a fine bottle of wine. I sniff it from both sides and enthusiastically approve. They take the bird away and bring it back carved for 2, with a nice plate of dark meat with garlic espuma (foamy light garlic goodness) to share. The chicken was divine. Perfectly crispy skin, moist juicy white meat, along with some foie gras and black truffles (all cooked) nicely tucked beneath the skin. Each bite of that combination together was a Tour de Force. French couple on the left agrees. With that kind of hoopla over an expensive dish as such, nothing less than the best chicken ever was expected, and it was. Well done NoMad people!

Desserts were fine as well. Although the famous Milk and Honey was the only underwhelming of the evening. The chocolate dessert was more like it. A spectacular meal overall. Weird setting but food prevailed to save the day.

Categories: Gramercy, Flatiron, New York City | Tags: food, NYC dining, NYC restaurants, restaurants, The NoMad, The NoMad NYC, Travel | 11 Comments