Posts Tagged With: food

Meet the New Mexican Sheriff of Hell’s Kitchen – Tacuba

Posted on August 7, 2016 by Ziggy

Tacuba

November 20, 2016 Update: Three months later, Tacuba of Hell’s Kitchen is clicking on all Chimichangas! A big birthday bash for a close friend last night started with a sound concern, but ended with another fun meal. If you go however, try to avoid Friday and Saturday nights if you can. The word is apparently out (ahem!). There were quite a few large groups there besides the usual turnout, and they can get busy. Tacuba has all the red flags of places I usually avoid. Younger crowd, loud, overzealous vibe sometimes. But the touch of Julian Medina (who I finally met last night) of Toloache fame, gives it this nice balance of food and energy you cant get out of Mexican in Hell’s Kitchen. Nothing new to report food wise. Stick to the Carnitas, Pulpo and the rest of the appetizers. And the drinks here are quite good.

August 7, 2016 Post: To open a Mexican restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen these days requires some major Chalupas. I need to double check with the EWZ stats department but its entirely possible that Mexican is more represented in the Kitchen of Hell than Thai these days. The last couple of years saw Taquerias, Tex-Mex, and all sorts of various sit-downs flood the area. All while old fashioned Mexican bodegas forced to close or transform themselves. So forgive me when I say this, but when I saw yet another Mexican being developed on 9th between 54/53, I said the same thing when they replaced Little Chef with Choza at Gotham West Market. We need another Mexican here like I needed Shingles

Then I find out this is another place from Julian Medina, of Toloache fame. That intrigued me enough to stop wishing for shingles, but not quite enough to make it a priority (sorry Medina). But I needed to try it for myself eventually. Oh and by the way did I mention that spot is cursed? It saw a bunch of places come and go, whose names no one can recall. The only memorable thing about this location saw one of my co-workers get slapped by a former CEO when it was an Italian joint. It was a playful slap, but a slap to the face nonetheless.

But the reason that intrigued me wasnt Medina (sorry again Julian, I owe you a drink), but the fact that with all the Mexican we have in Hell’s Kitchen, I was never truly comfortable recommending any of them to visitors looking for a “Mexican restaurant”. They are all either too authentic, too taqueria, too hole in the wallish, too tex-mex, too chilish, or just simply too suck. I couldnt think of one spot, but I think that’s about to change. There’s this new place opening soon on 10th promising to make Mission style… just kidding Medina (make it a pitcher). I think Tacuba may very well be it.

Talking about Mission, the dish that is simply called Carnitas at Tacuba has that Mission District slow roasted nastiness. It comes with Chicharron (Cracklings), four little tortillas for you to master your taco skills, but thats not all… A beautiful, tangy tamarind habanero salsa that will make you want to dip you car keys into. You may also want to add some sides to go along like the rice and beans, and the unique Avocado Fries. But dont overlook the terrific Sweet Plantains.

The one thing I love about Tacuba is its short, to the point menu. Other than the good looking Ceviche section, they only have about 5 appetizers, which they seem to master. The Guacamole is thick and proper, with chile serrano giving it a little kick. The Zucchini Flower Quesadilla with Burrata, Manchego and kale pesto tastes much better than it sounds. Good luck finding this in your neighborhood Cantina. But the one must eat here for both lunch and dinner is Octopus. For lunch you got a Torta featuring Chorizo, Octopus, and Chipotle Butter. And for dinner (and lunch) Octopus comes on a toasty Tostada with chipotle butter and mezcal. Carnitas Burrito at lunch time is well done as well, other than the accompanying fries that can use some work – I suggested rosemary and garlic chips or something to oomph them up. No Complaints on the desserts and drinks side either. Go!

Tacuba
802 9th Ave (53/54)

Tacuba

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Best Mexican in Hell's Kitchen, food, Julian Medina, Mexican, Tacuba, Tacuba Hell's Kitchen, Travel | 2 Comments

This is Palermo

Posted on August 4, 2016 by Ziggy

Even my Google Maps app was in a confused state as my taxi raced through traffic, seemingly going the wrong way. Our female driver just smiled and said “Welcome to Palermo”. The only time she slowed down was when we passed Giovanni Falcone’s monument for me to take a quick picture. The site of perhaps the most famous mafia assassination in history, which changed Palermo forever. Falcone’s friend and fellow judge Paolo Borsellino who spoke at the funeral, was killed in similar fashion 57 days after his friend’s death. The airport is named after both heroes.

Palermo is misunderstood. Just like most of Sicily pretty much. Its old, its gritty, its congested, and its old! The same can be said to much of metropolitan Europa, but it feels different here. Emphasis on different, which is essentially why we travel. This blogger compares it to India, and I can understand why. Strangely, some of my favorite moments in Palermo came from the times when my daughters were slightly terrified. Like when we witnessed the scene at Mercato Vucciria at night – an intestine, seafood, clubby, smoky BBQ ~~orgy~~ extravaganza. A scene we only see in movies, never in Italy. Different! Like our neighbor restaurant Il Pipino Rosso (the red penis) and its slightly disturbing logo. This heat made me only imagine that when the Pipino committee met to discuss the name, someone showed up with a horrific heat rash.

On this post, I will touch on some of the obvious (markets, churches), and some of the not so (fountain, dog droppings, red penises, etc). You probably already heard about Palermo’s legendary street food and market scene. Panelle, the Sicilian falafel, alone with a drizzle of lemon, or as a sandwich (Pane E Panelle), or with fried potato croquettes (Pane E Panelle Con Croquette Di Patate) quickly became our snack of choice. It sounds and looks bland, but yet another example of “Dont judge a food by its cover”. It also holds true for peaches. The uglier the better, while the most beautiful often come without substance (AKA The Paris Hilton syndrome).

The Sicilian peaches in July are outrageously aromatic and sweet. At the bustling Capo market while I was busy admiring the fishy creatures from Mazara for too long, my family would simply hold a peach 5 meters out to the direction of where I’m supposed to go. But just like with the Oritgia Market, one needs to spend some quality time (alone preferred) with the Rialto-like seafood displays. Make sure to come to Capo early, Ballaro before 13:00, and Vucciria at night for the party. If you’ve seen markets and “shuks” like in Israel and Barcelona, these markets may not exactly shock, but interesting nonetheless.

The usual suspects in Palermo… the magnificent, jaw dropping, slap your sister Cathedral. The awe inspiring, splendid, slap your other sister Cappella Palatina. And the only in Palermo, elegant Oratorios, are reasons enough to spend a few days. The recently Unescoed Cefalu and Monreale nearby means make it 4 days. You will pass by the cathedral a few times, and get mesmerized by its majestic magnificence as if you are seeing it for the very first time each and every time.. staring, admiring, selfying… until you step on dog poop.

Ziggy’s Palermo Dog Poop Survival Guide:

Do not despair. The Palermian dog poop, perhaps due to the seafood and Panelle diet doesn’t smell too harsh. Think 3 week old asparagus meets Bengay. Pick a nice looking square with pretty cobble stones and a place to rest. Chance are there’s some water on the ground there. Have someone in your family pick up little spoons off the ground, the spoons used for granitas and ice crea, they are everywhere. Gently remove the poop with the spoons. Use that bottle of water you are carrying if you have to. The square may have a different meaning to you when you next pass by as it loses its charm a bit, but thats the small price you pay

The summer heat also means discovering things you may otherwise overlook. Like the Orto Botanico di Palermo with its ancient trees (including oldest in Europe), and Zucchini shape trees (Maybe I was just hungry). Its location near the train station also means discovering the Palermo Chinese wholesale district, just in case you need to buy handheld fans for 100 of your closest friends. You can also cool off at the Fontana Pretoria, where up close it transforms into one of the most photogenic fountains in Italy. There’s even a “Costanza Pose”. When I posed in similar fashion on one of the fountain steps, Mrs Z said a policeman watching from the corner whistled to get off. Or was he just admiring? We’ll never know.

Our entire Sicilian schedule centered around one particular event, the Santa Rosalia Festino. This is arguably Sicily’s biggest festival, with concerts, fireworks, races, and various parades throughout the week. And the grand finale, July 14, where the entire town, and 1000’s of tourists come out to see Rosalia slowly parade down Vittorio Emanuele. The energy, the anticipation, the emotion was heart felt. I hope my rabbi will understand

When you take a close look at the history of Palermo, it may seem like everyone and their mother invaded Palermo at some point. Arab influence is more evident here than anywhere else especially when it comes to the wonderful cuisine. They brought in the citrus fruits, raisins, fennel, sugar, and introduced the Arab “Shuks” (markets). You may see some sort of an Arab influence in almost every dish in Palermo and elsewhere.

At Ferro Di Cavallo we started our Panelle relationship, and enjoyed Spaghetti with seafood and a fine spaghetti with squid ink, among other less memorable dishes.

The father and son team of A’Cuncuma dazzled us with colorful flavors, while mom was home with fever. This is Haute Palermo, a playful homage to Palermo classics. We enjoyed more raw Gamberoni, and fresh fish which we couldnt get enough of in Sicily. A duller, lighter version of Pasta Con la Sarde was missing its oomph, but everything else worked ]. In particular, the perfectly cooked Fassone beef from Piedmont. You can’t get this stuff in NYC. The closest is Fassone-like cattle from Montana

Turns out there’s also good pizza in Palermo, like at Ciccio Passami l’Olio. Unlike the rest of Sicily’s notables, here its a lighter, airier fare with cleverly assembled ingredients. Out of the three we tasted, the mortadella with pistachio, tomato and various cheeses stood out. Our favorite Pizza in sicily

But our favorite meal in Palermo came courtesy of La Cambusa. Originally recommended by a trusted waitress from Mercato (NYC) who grew up in Palermo. Being in the center, it does attracts a fair number of tourists, and evidently… clowns. A misunderstanding led to double the house white we wanted (bigger than a bottle) which turned out to be a fun challenge. The previous day in Trapani I ordered a fish sandwich instead of peach juice in a cafe, but my Menu Italian is getting better. As a result of all the drinking, I was desperately trying to avoid eye contact with the clown. Pasta con le Sarde here was outstanding. Same dish featured in the last Travel and Leisure issue (as of this writing). The raisins, fennel, breadcrumbs, pine nuts, sardines resulted in this sweet richness we’ve never tasted in pasta before. Vongole was one of the better Vongoles of a Vongole filled trip. Rabbit loin was tender and juicy, but the branzino baked with potato stole the show among the secondis

Categories: Italy, Sicily | Tags: A'Cuncuma, Ciccio Passami l'Olio, food, La Cambusa, Palermo, Santa Rosalia, Sicily, Travel, travel+photography | 1 Comment

Flavor of the Month – Gazala’s Place

Posted on August 1, 2016 by Ziggy

I will have more about Sicily soon, but meanwhile…

This is a new monthly feature on EWZ that simply features a NYC establishment that I like right now. Not a full blown post as I will spare you the unnecessary details and jokes and simply say GO, and why. And yes, I’m changing the meaning of the conventional usage of “Flavor of the Month” and making it my own

There aren’t that many places more deserving to kick this thing off than Gazala’s. I’ve been going to Gazala’s in Hell’s Kitchen for many years, and only met Gazala a handful of times. Thats partly because for a while Gazala was cooking at the bigger Gazala near the Natural History Museum until she was forced to close it. As a result she spends more time in Hell’s Kitchen these days, especially during lunch time making dinner preparations. Middle Eastern is the proper way of categorizing Gazala’s, but its more than that

At the moment Gazala is in Israel, visiting her family at the Druze village of Daliat el-Carmel, in the north near Haifa. The village where years ago as a young girl she had to make a decision that would shape the rest of her life. The decision to whether follow the religious path or not, as every Druze boy and girl requires to decide. Sacrifices surround each decision, and luckily for us New Yorkers she chose the non-religious path (as most do). This essentially allowed her to travel, and bring us a taste of that druze culture. This may be the only Druze restaurant in the country

Gazala’s Place is not a particularly sexy place. For that go to Room Service across the street where you can swing by their many chandeliers. But if you want some of the best and freshest Hummus in NYC, a Bourekas (like Bourek, flaky pastry stuffed with cheese and other goodies) popular with food tours, and fantastic falafel the size of a small monkey head, come to Gazala’s Place. Her $10 lunch specials alone like the Kafta kebab with outragously delicious chicken, hummus, salad, rice, and Baba ghanoush is the best deal in Hell’s Kitchen. Like the gift that keeps on giving

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Best Middle Eastern in NYC, food, Gazala's, Gazala's Place, restaurants, Travel | Leave a comment

The Joy Suck Club does Blue Ribbon Sushi Columbus

Posted on July 29, 2016 by Ziggy

Someone out there in Denver owes me an American dollar. And I know where she lives! The bet was that taking my immediate extended family (The Joy Suck Club) to something like Blue Ribbon Sushi will be a big flop. Last time I attempted this, we wind up in Rosa Mexicano due to the reluctance of the Denverphile who should pay me another dollar for enduring another meal at Rosa Mexicano. The belief of the Denverite is that Blue Ribbon Sushi is all about that.. Sushi, and blue ribbons and stuff. And that this is simply a disastrous match to the members of some of the pickiest eaters on the planet.

Introducing the Joy Suck Club….

One is so picky that anything remotely slimy will make her puke in her mouth a little. Forget Oysters. I’m talking about mushrooms! She had her first mushroom at the age of 65, and said it was “ok”

One requires everything well well well done. Forget steak! I’m talking about pasta and eggs.

One likes generally everything, but will immediately tell you where you can get this better somewhere else even though he doesnt get out much. “I understand this is prime meat, aged 60 days and perfectly cooked. But there’s this place near where I live who does it better”

One can not handle anything with… whats the word I’m looking for… Flavor. The dish requires zero flavor whatsoever. No sauce, no seasoning. I will take the Spaghetti alle Vongole, without the Vongole please.

And then there’s the one who needs proper lighting to enjoy his meal. And by proper I mean nothing short but stadium power, blinding kind. “This is good, but I cant see anything. I would like to see what I’m eating please”

In other words, everything sucks!

To them we are freaks of nature. “You are eating uncooked meat. Should I call an ambulance now, or you’ll do it later in the middle of the night”. And so with us in the mix I’m constantly looking for that balance. Italian normally works, but gets a little challenging in the theater district (if nowhere near Mercato). At Blue Ribbon I have a secret weapon that the Denverite may not know about. Chicken! And Salmon! Not to mention steak, the sickest fried rice dish in town, and a very full menu. But what I like about Blue Ribbon and large groups more is that I can reserve at any time, and have a family style meal. I’ve done it with co-workers, and now it even passed the Joy Suck Club. The biggest test there is

Blue Ribbon Sushi has been a staple in the Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide, even though depending on how full the moon is, and who you ask, may or may not be in Hell’s Kitchen. But deliciousness has no borders. And Blue Ribbon needs to be in a neighborhood like HK. Blue Ribbon is a chain, but one should not hold it against them. While you can find their sensational oxtail fried rice with bone marrow and omelette downtown as well, they do some things unique to this location. Like the Ika Shoga, simply sauteed squid with ginger and garlic. Why no one else does this is a mystery to me. Its not only a dish I enjoyed many times, but I do get some pleasure from watching people react when they try it for the first time. Mrs Ziggy, kids, and yes, even some members of the club, raved about this one.

For me, family style meals are not about going to Carmine’s and eating 2 oversized dishes shared by 6 people. There’s just so much you can order and share, and the quality of large dishes is almost always poor. Instead, go to any place and simply order as many dishes as necessary of the same thing. Blue Ribbon is great for this because some of their signature dishes like the fried rice, and the squid are very shareable. I once sent a group there (I wasnt invited, just consulted) and pretty much wrote the entire order for them based on how many people were in the party. You want variety, especially with picky eaters. And Blue Ribbon chefs know how to cook

The rest of the meal was a big success with the Suck Club. My secret weapon fried chicken, and the salmon with a light teriyaki glaze worked like magic. The only concern was that the salmon would not be cooked enough for the club, but hey, they ate, and raved about it. I especially loved the smoky bean sprouts and rabe that accompanied the fish. While I’m not the biggest fan of the fried chicken, its almost always a smart order, and I’m slowly warming up to the honey sauce that comes with it. The fried rice is a smash hit as usual, and I’ve essentially already written essays and articles about it. Nightly specials included a fine Nobu-esque rock shrimp tempura, and finer spare ribs. There was plenty of sushi as well, shockingly gobbled up by some JSC members who may not have been aware that they were eating raw fish. And to complete the experience, I was reunited with my favorite Japanese light beer, Hitachino Nest. This did not suck.

Someone in Denver awes me a buck.

Blue Ribbon
6 Columbus, 308 W 58th St (8/9)

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Blue Ribbon Sushi, Blue Ribbon Sushi Columbus, food, Hell's Kitchen Sushi, restaurants, Travel | 3 Comments

Ristorante Al Boccone – Marzamemi

Posted on July 24, 2016 by Ziggy

Sometimes the best laid plans are the ones you make that morning, after Modica coffee, or inside a stunning Baroque cathedral. Not months prior while eating leftover General Tso’s Chicken. To Noto or Not to Noto was the question I’ve been wrestling with the most during planning. Decision was final, until Mrs Ziggy, suffering from a small case of ‘Fish called Wanda‘ syndrome, asked me time and again.. “why arent we going to Noto? Italian men with Italian accents are telling me I should go to Noto”. And so its back to To Noto. And while in beautiful but Baroque Disney Landish Noto, escaping the heat inside that stunning Cathedral (picture below), another thought crossed my mind. Instead of having lunch in Baroque Disney, we will have lunch at the old fishing village of Marzememi, 20 minutes away. Its been 36 hours since our last seafood meal, and my left arm is starting to twitch ever so slightly.

The old village of Marzamemi, a sleeping beauty, where once tuna was trapped and tortured by the numbers. One of the first and most important ‘Tonnaras’ on the island, though the practice is no more (Thanks Obama!). Today, two shirtless men collect two euros to watch your car, restaurants are lined up along the shore, and the old center is now as picturesque as fishing villages get. Surprisingly fairly quiet during the day, even in the high summer. Action picks up at night I was told by our host at Modica. And nice sandy beaches (a luxury on this island) are minutes away in San Lorenzo

But the highlight of the day, as often is the case in Italy, was lunch at Al Boccone. A huge deck overlooking the ocean, with an English speaking young waiter who really cared about our enjoyment. We found this common all over Sicily – owners, workers were grateful and humble that YOU chose THEM, and they are on a mission for you not to regret. An appetizer mix of local specialties including a fine smoked swordfish. Another assortment of cheese and salami was forgettable. Calamari Siciliano was a revelation of sorts, two huge squid stuffed with bread crumbs, more squid, pine nuts and more deliciousness, served in a stew like fashion with tomato and onions. Excellent fresh grilled Amberjack was like a more succulent swordfish. A Busiate-like Trofie (surprised to see Trofie pasta in the part) with tomatoes, basil, pistachio, big shrimp, little shrimp, medium shrimp (top picture) was well balanced and quite exceptional. The one dish I didn’t care for much was spaghetti with bottarga, which tasted incredibly strong after sampling the other dishes (tho oldest didnt mind so much). Fantastic lunch in a most picturesque village

Noto

Categories: Sicily | Tags: food, Marzamemi, Ristorante Al Boccone, Ristorante Al Boccone Marzamemi, Sicily, Travel | 2 Comments

Ortigia Market – A Walk With a Chef

Posted on July 20, 2016 by Ziggy

“I promised Marcello I won’t be taking too many seflies”, said chef Lele while we were gearing up for the second one. My kids would argue that two in 90 minutes suggests that you are fairly close to a comma. But different rules perhaps apply to the island of Ortigia in east Sicily, home to a spectacular Duomo, puppets, mussels, and a pretty nifty market

90 minutes prior we met Lele Torrisi next to the Temple of Apollo, the oldest doric remains in Sicily, 6th century BC, 27th century BI (Before Iphone). The temple is adjacent to what later became our favorite market in Sicily. I already knew chef Lele would sport his chef attire, and I briefly considered all four of us to show up in similar fashion. But it was too hot, and I wasnt too certain about the chef’s sense of humor. I was sporting my spanking brand new Fedora

Turns out I didnt need to worry about the sense of humor part, which made the walk that much more enjoyable. And within minutes, I was an expert. I knew which swordfish was frozen. I knew where the pistachio really come from (hint: Not from here). I knew what the vendors are shouting. Mrs Ziggy knew what to do with the spice pack she’s been hiding in the cabinet for over a year. And I knew how to inspect the fish for freshness. I can already imagine the look on my fishmonger face on my next visit, when he sees me open up those gills with gloves

We also learned about the various seasons. That July is a particular good time to cook in Sicily. That mussels and peaches right now are at their best. Another big lesson that set the tone for us the rest of the trip is not to judge a peach by its cover. The uglier the better. But the highlight came at the end, when we popped into the famed sandwich maker Borderi (if you wear “I love [your name]” t-shirt, you officially made it). And out pops a board of deliciousness, including sensational smoked mozzarella.

Everything about Lele Torrisi reads like the Ferran Adrià of Siracusa. From his time spent in various Michelin powerhouses, including Osteria Francescana and Massimo Bottura, to the more humble times spent with his dad Alfio at Ristorante Dioniso, 10 minute walk from market. The unexpected expected consequences that came out from all of this, is that we ate exceptionally well the rest of our Sircausa stay. Within minutes we were tasting local craft beer (a luxury in Sicily) at one month old Pani_Co, an artsy local wine bar with a full menu. The Alveria American style IPAs turned out to be the best brew we drank in Sicily. And later that night we were dining with locals in the know at Macallè, where Lele serves as a consultant

Lele markets himself these days via Marcello Baglioni’s Agave Travel Creative. Marcello specialty is experiences, “Slow Travel”, memories that stay with you far beyond the memory of seeing yet another church. Instead of just staying at an Agriturismo, he will set you up with various activities, like harvesting (pistachios, olives, grapes). He can arrange an archaeological dig (I’ve done it in Israel, fun), climb Mt Etna with a volcanologist, tour mafia facilities and even go on a “job” with some. Ok, I made the last one up, but you get the idea.

Lele is Agave’s culinary arm, where you can schedule such market walks, cooking classes, and anything you want really (anything!). We could have walked the Ortigia market by ourselves in less than 10 minutes, take selfies with the fish, and ate in other restaurants I planned on. But what kind of memories would have derived from that.

Categories: Sicily | Tags: Agave Travel Creative, food, Lele Torrisi, markets, Ortigia Market, Sicily, Siracusa market, Travel | 2 Comments

This is Ciuci’s Manor

Posted on July 17, 2016 by Ziggy

This is not a painting. Just like every other visitor stepping into the second floor of this Agriturismo like no other, we thought we were staring at a painting. Its a custom made window overlooking Ciuci Land, where once over 60 donkeys roamed free, producing milk for kids with special needs. Only three, luckiest donkeys in the world, left in the property, but they have friends; Ostriches, cows, rabbits, chickens, ducks, parakeet. Ginevra’s dad promised one day, he will stop coming home with animals. A week later.. “What is that you hiding under your arms”. Its another duck.

As with any such trip, I choose to write first about experiences we speak most highly about. The place that produced the most memories. But pictures will do very little in this case, no matter how much digging I do (camera and 4 phones, 2 of which filled with only selfies). You need to see it, listen to it, smell it, take the drive there, meet Ginevra and her mom, and maybe then you will get the idea. The gate to Ciuci’s alone is reminiscent of a Gladiator movie set, when Maximus comes back to his family (In happier times).

“She is not real”, my oldest description of young Ginevra who manages this Agriturismo. The only place I ordered eggs in the morning, with some guilt over the fact that our host is 8 months pregnant. With everything so fresh tasting, and chickens a few meters away, I just coudnt resist. And it was good. Just like the rest of the morning lineup including rotating fresh fruit pies, and the legendary Pistachio cream. To fully appreciate Ginevra’s pistachio cream you need to pop into any random store in Trapani and try theirs. Feh! Ciuci’s Manor is a pistachio paradise

And just when you think this can not possibly get any better… “We take all the guests in a 9 passenger van, and have dinner in a Palazzo we inherited in Favara. Would you like that?” (speechless). Just one question. What should I wear? My nicest shorts have three stains on them already but with proper lighting we can manage. I live in NYC. The closest thing to this experience is when friends invite us to a house in south Jersey where properties are a little bigger, and the Chinese food a little worse. Dinner at Palazzo Fanara with our new friends from France was that proper magical finish, to a magical place. Ginevra, Mama, and of course the wonderful Vagabonda – Thank you for the memories.

Categories: Sicily | Tags: Ciuci's Manor, Ciuci's Manor Sicily, food, Sicily, Sicily Agriturismo, Travel | Leave a comment

Pssss… I Have a New Favorite Ramen Spot

Posted on June 26, 2016 by Ziggy

Mentoku

I hope I find you readers well, and I hope this stays just between us. As much as I like my places to stay the same, my mama always taught me that “Sharing is Caring”. I shared my only toy, a plastic green soldier with my friends, including the friend who introduced me to cigarettes at the coming of age 5 (I quit when I turned 6, and swore off cigarettes forever. True story). Up until three months ago or so my go-to Ramen spot has been the Totto branch on 51st/10th, right across ~~the Falafel Nazi~~ Azuri Cafe. After over a dozen visits to Totto, with the occasional cheating with the great Ippudo Akamaru and Ivan, I’ve gone exploring yet again for that great Ramen bowl in the Kitchen of Hell. Enter little Mentoku on 9th ave.

Mentoku is not your prototypical Hell’s Kitchen Ramen that is buzzy, with the occasional painful waits, less than comfortable seating, and quick eat. You can actually spend more than 5 minutes here while enjoying soft Jazz. There’s one cook, and there’s usually one or two waitresses running the “front”. And more importantly, I have never seen the place too full to enjoy. Whether by myself at the counter, or with co-workers, every visit has been comfortable and relaxing, a rarity in NYC Ramen world. “Akanoren” is proudly displayed on the sign outside, and according to this blogger, its a Ramen chain in Japan.

The specialty here is Hakata style Tokotsu Ramen, where the pork is slowly cooked at high temperatures. This means the meat and the fat dissolves into the soup more, creating a rich, but smooth base. Meaning its rich, but not one of those super rich, guilt-filled bowls that makes you want to start smoking again as you declare this day the beginning of the end of your life. You coming out of there feeling good, which to me is what Ramen is all about.

I started my relationship with Mentoku with the mild and pleasant Tinkichi, but its the Yuzu-Kosho that does it for me now. The hot Yuzu paste delivers an initial punch but settles down nicely into a very pleasant bowl. The Nori surrounding the bowl adds a nice fishy element as you smell it with each morsel, and the thin cut chashu is the way to go as far the pork belly goes. I feel that some of the other guys slice them a little too thick. Another big hit at Mentoku is their simple but incredibly juicy and flavorful fried chicken.

Mentoku will be added to the Survival Guide, while we say goodbye to short-lived Mocu Mocu. Oh how I hoped the sisters succeed, but was always afraid that Hell’s Kitchen, and in particular that corner of 10th Ave, is simply not ready for this kind of Japanese.

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Best Ramen in NYC, food, Mentoku, Mentoku Ramen, Ramen, Travel | Leave a comment

Timna – Chutzpah Nation

Posted on June 22, 2016 by Ziggy

March 26, 2017 Update:

At Tompkins Square Park, just east of Timna, there’s a Temperance fountain, constructed in late 19th century to help locals with their alcohol self restrain. Drink water, avoid booze. Sounds easy enough. A primarily German neighborhood did all it could to maintain the legacy, up until the prohibition. Today the park is surrounded by bars!

No such temperance, self restrain luck with Timna’s new spring menu however. Dish after dish of dazzling combinations between the newcomers and the old heavyweights like the Kubaneh and Octopus, testing my self control and wallet. Like a fat kid in a candy story, I want to eat all you got, now!

Perhaps if fat kids would eat cauliflower like this, the world would be a healthier place. At Israeli establishments we are attracted to Cauliflower like Trump to Twitter. But it was the cured tuna Sashimi that stole the show yet again early on with all its visuals, textures and flavors. There was melt in your fork short rib with even better mushroom, and cheesy gnocchi done Roman style (Semolina).

The mains sealed the rare triple Z rating. Legendary octopus whisperer Nir Mesika dishes out killa Octopus which I already discussed in great length here and below. But on this night a new dish stole the show. Two hefty fillets of marvelously cooked Striped Bass with Israeli couscous (aka Pearl Couscous invented for the digestive challenged David Ben-Gurion, Israel’s first Prime Minister). I’ve been to places where one such fillet made the entire dish for the same price. Mesika feeds his diners like his children.

Chutzpah Nation is clicking on all cylinders. A full house of the young and the restless meant we belong alright, albeit texting was required sometimes to communicate. My dish descriptions dont describe very well in this case. There’s an art form to the way Mesika assembles each plate, with the goal to accommodate all senses. We havent run into many chefs with this style. From such a small kitchen come this ingredient heavy plating. Not every bite is the same, and in some cases you even scavenge hunt. Oooh, a raisin, I found a raisin! Lets look for another one. Mrs Z and I make our own fun!

June 22, 2016 Post:

I will make this one nice and simple for you. Pressing for time as of late, with only a week or so before I leave you yet again on another eating assignment (Sicily). This one will be the biggest and baddest assignment ever, with a lot of interesting surprises in store. Though I may be suffering from my first ever FRFS (food research fatigue syndrome). I’m now seeing Busiate in my sleep and sometimes even when awake, like while watching the Euro 2016 (Football/Soccer). As much as I’m enjoying the Euro’s, its best served as a rather harmless sleeping pill. A much needed one since I’m not getting enough sleep as of late due to the mating season in my bedroom. No, not what you think. Birds! male birds, doing the entire Hava Nagila rendition at 4:30 in the morning in order to attract their female counterparts.

East Village in June, as I was showing to my Aussie friends, feels like mating season as well. Its the east coast capital of pretty people. Friends that live there give 2nd Ave nicknames I can not repeat here. And on buzzy St Mark’s, in the middle of all that, you find little Timna, a modern Israeli joint with Nir Mesika (Zizi Limona, Milan, knows his hummus geography) at the helm. When I visited young Mesika in the kitchen, I was announced by the manager Downton Abbey style. The guy has all the talent and knowledge in the world, but has the look of someone in the early stages of a soccer career, rather than a world class chef.

Other than a slight discomfort at the rounded table at the back, with some A/C issues, this was a very enjoyable evening. Started with the infamous freshly baked Kubaneh that comes with some yogurt, a tomatoee salsa and “Jalapeno Salsa” which is essentially green Yemeni S’chug. If you have a Challah fetish, you will wet yourself over the taste and texture of this thing, and its a must get for groups especially (I wouldnt order it solo). But as with most bread courses out there, its a bit overrated, and serves as a sharp reminder that the free bread course days are just about over. Give me The Marshal french loaf with homemade butter any day of the week. The obligatory Cauliflower that you will find in every Israeli corner, did not disappoint. Here Mesika elevates it with curried yogurt, dried grapes among other deliciousness. A veg-ful burrata is more proof that a sprinkle of Za’atar (oil in this case) makes everything better.

Mesika assembled a playful menu with influences from all over the world (Chinatown salad!) especially in regards to the raw stuff. A Ceviche salad featuring mahi on this particular night was the weakest of the ones we tried. A fine tzatziki tartar with minced lamb delighted Mrs Ziggy especially. And the Mediterranean Sashimi featuring cured tuna, green Tabouli salad with quinoa, and crispy beat “leather” did the trick, including in the looks department A somewhat deconstructed lasagna featuring slow cooked tender spareribs, and Jerusalem artichoke chips is another example of Mesika’s playful brilliance.

But the most interesting dish of the night sounded the most boring, Bedouin Octopus. Mesika tenderizes, sous vide style, the heck out of this thing (I’m guessing by the size, it was enjoying the coast of the Portugal a few days prior). A bit softer than I like my octopuses. Then he finished it on an open flame like the Bedouin 200 kilometers south of Mesika’s home in Israel. This is by far the smokiest Octopus I’ve ever had, and one of the better, even while lacking the proper texture. We skipped dessert.

Brunch in Timna is another delicious event. And one of the better brunch values out there. For $25 you get a selection of small salads (salatim) to share, any of the entrees, coffee (very good), and the obligatory Mimosa. We sampled an average Hummus Masabacha which I’m not a big fan to begin with. A nice Sabich Croissant, though I still prefer my Sabichs in a pita. One of the better Shakshukas out there. And a very solid burger with fried egg.

Timna
109 St Marks Pl (1st/A)
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: Kubaneh, Cauliflower, Mediterranean Sashimi, Octopus, Fish, Shakshuka (brunch), Burger (brunch)

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: East Village Restaurants, food, Israeli Cuisine NYC, Timna, Timna NYC, Travel | 3 Comments

Werkstatt – Ich Habe Gut Geschlafen

Posted on June 15, 2016 by Ziggy

I slept well that night. Like a baby caressed by his mother’s bosoms while sucking on a Jack Daniels soaked pacifier. It was that kind of night after that kind of evening at Werkstatt. A gamble of sorts, bringing my entire family to a place I’ve never been before for a family celebration. A high percentage gamble considering the Austrian fare, though in reality all that was required was a Schnitzel, and a fan. Comfort food on Coney Island Ave is not so new to us (see Nargis Cafe), but comfort Austrian cuisine, boasting a former 4 NYT stars chef is like having a Michelin Star restaurant in the Staten Island mall.

So why did it take 9 months for me to get to Werkstatt? Because its the lone Google Star in an area that I rarely visit. Ditmas Park is like Family Guy. I never seek it, but when I bump into it, I stick around and delight in its offerings. Though something tells me I will be back sooner than later. Not so much for the other places in Ditmas Park, but this particular one. Where the German beer just keeps flowing, and the pretzels keep coming. Well, one pretzel really, which comes with its own Lipitor.

Or is it “Liptauer”, a buttery, cheesy, peppery, paprika infused mixture that requires a German born pretzel the size of half a pretzel cart to enjoy. Forget the mustard, dip this beast in the Lipitor. That pretzel was pretzel perfection, and it was making me thirsty! A silky smooth, light Belgian Witbier (white beer), a perfect match to the humid day. The smoky pan fried Brussels Sprouts with lemon habanero aioli was more like a side dish but a required order nonetheless considering how satisfying. But the winner early on was a sauteed Calamari and Kielbasa blend, a gorgeous combination I’ve never seen before.

Everyone was more than satisfied with their Chicken and Wiener (pork) Schnitzels including my buds from the one bite. A fine, juicy, homemade Bratwurst came with sauerkraut and potatoes. And an exceptionally tender slices of goulash-like beef shoulder with bread dumplings that took me straight to Salzburg. This was a special, which in Werkstatt require paying attention, or you may miss the world famous Viennese Sacher Torte.

As much as I love my sweets, chocolate cakes rarely excite, and the one here (Sacher) wasnt an exception (nor in Vienna). But if there’s anything the Austrians are good at, is desserts, and boy oh boy there were good at Werkstatt. The crepes, the nutty Linzer, the creamy hazelnut torte, they just kept coming, and wowing.

This was also an especially fun evening for Thomas Ferlesch and family (wife and daughter). Not only visited by a world famous blogger, but also by Mimi Sheraton, a former influential NYT ciritic who handed the then young Ferlesch 4 stars back in 1981 when he worked for Vienna ’79 (UES). A happy, sentimental Ferlesch was running around all over the homey multi room place like a 24 year old again. Or perhaps he’s always like that, who knows. The best compliment I can give any such place is that if I would have had this meal in the cuisine country of origin, it would still be considered a good meal. Something I can not say with the vast majority of the places we go to. Go!

Werkstatt
509 Coney Island Ave
$$$
Recommended Dishes: Pretzel, calamari, Brussels Sprouts, Beef shoulder (special), Goulash, Sausage Dessert