10 Best Things We Ate in Rome

Cannoli from Ciuri CiuriI know what you thinking.  No, I’m not auditioning for a hand model job.  Although the hands are normally this photogenic this is not the main motivation behind this post, and you should really pay more attention to the beautiful Canollo (single Connoli.  Yes you’ve been living a lie).  With that said, if you insist, who am I to prevent what people want and need.  Drop me a line at ZiggysHands@Gmail.com, also on twitter @handyjobs.

Roma delivered some tasty surprises.  I was all ready to be wowed by all the Cacios and the Pepes, and the Carbonaras, but instead I was impressed by the more familiar items like Meatballs, Mortadella, Burratas and Pizzas.  So in no particular order, our top eats in Rome…

Pizza at Da Remo – Although I’ve been to Rome before this was the first time I experienced the classic Roman “Matzoh” thin pizza.  We enjoyed this one more than the former Michelin star spot we had for lunch in Orvieto that day.  Margherita and the Diavola (like sopressata back home) were spot on, but once we added more toppings things started to get off track a little.  So stay simple with the Matsoh Pizza.  Fun and supposedly flirtatious staff (at least according to RomeDigest.com.  They probably did not notice the hands) lets you take all the pictures you want of the hectic action inside.

Pizza at Da Remo

Fettuccine Agli Ovoli at La Campana.  Ovoli (pronounced delicious) is sort of a rare, expensive mushroom that is bright, sweet, delicate, almost truffle like.  The whole mushroom is a weird egg like shape (hence Ovoli).  The Italians like to call them as they see it.  (E.G Strozzapreti obviously invented when someone witnessed a priest being strangled).  La Campana is one of those proud establishments with a rich history dating back to the 16th century.  And the best part: Open on Sundays!

Fettuccine Agli Ovoli at La Campana

Seafood Assortment at Le Mani in Pasta.  Terrific finish to an uneven meal at this popular seafood institution in Trastevere.  Fantastic hefty juicy Langoustines, wonderfully chewy flat squid, lightly breaded and grilled to perfection, and a nice whole white fish.  Borrowing from the Hummus Whisperer, we attacked this thing with full force.

Seafood Assortment at Le Mani in Pasta

Gelsi Neri Granita at Ciuri Ciuri – Nothing, no ice cream or a slap in the face, during the entire trip felt as refreshing as this dark beauty.  Sweet but not too sweet.  Is it a blackberry?  Well if it is, its not like any blackberry I ever had.  Reminds me more of the white berry I ate in Israel.  There’s a Borat “Black Not” joke in here somewhere.

Gelsi Neri Granita at Ciuri Ciuri

Burrata from Roscioli – Just edging the sleek, paper thin Mortadella which is what Mrs Ziggy would have picked.  The Burrata, creamy, rich and ever so memorable.  But what stole the show was the semi-dried peppery tomatoes I couldnt get enough of.  Promise me you will get both dishes.  Or we are no longer friends

Roscioli - Burrata

Sliced Pizza from Forno Campo de’ Fiori – Fitting entry right after my post on Sullivan Street Bakery and its room temperature pizza bianca.  If Pizza Bianca (white pizza for those scoring at home, or if you are alone) like in Sullivan was more popular in NYC it would be hot off the oven as opposed to room temperature.  We enjoyed a few slices at this Forno.  Delicious plain, chewy bianca, and one topped with tomatoes.  Bread, salt, olive oil never tasted this good.

Forno Campo de' Fiori

Meatballs from Cesare al Casaletto – Another tough choice here between the meatballs and the super flavorful oxtail.  Add the lightly fried gnocchi to the mix and you got yourself a nice meal at this far enough from the tourists stop (oh those pesky tourists).  The meatballs were some of the most unique balls I ever had.   Airy, slow cooked savory brisket meatballs with just enough creamy pesto. Yum yum yum.

Cesare al Casaletto - meatballs

Biscotti and Cookies from Biscottificio Innocenti – Like eating Biscotti and cookies for the very first time.  Tucked on the quiet side of Trastevere is this 100 year old bakery/factory.  Just walk in and ask for an assortment.  Score one big one for Katie Parla

Innocenti

Fettuccine from Il Sorpasso.  With pesto, zucchini flowers and sunflower seeds.  Need I say more?  Yes I probably should.  Perhaps the single best pesto sauce I ever ate.  There!  One of 3 excellent non-Roman pastas we shared here after some fantastic cheese and cured meats.  A perfect lunch spot after the Vatican

Sorpasso

Cannoli from Ciuri Ciuri – (Picture on top).  Yes, 2 items from Ciuri. a place so good you say it twice.  The trick about good Cannoli is seeing empty shells, which means a fresh fill of that ricotta goodness when you order.  Cannoli lovers – look no further!  Well, you can look further.  Its just an expression.

Categories: Italy, Rome | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Il Forno di Sullivan

Sullivan Street BakeryIt was the end of Friday Donuts as we knew it.  The culprit?  Sullivan Street Bakery.  Here’s what happened.  We had to kill Dress Up Friday prematurely since some of the youngsters in the office didn’t actually own a tie, or shirts without any South Park or Breaking Bad references, or a belt for that matter.  So Friday Donuts was born with everyone taking turns bringing a dozen dunkin donuts every Friday.  There is reason to live!  I resisted at first and did not participate.  A) I prefer to eat earlier.  B) I actually enjoy Breakfast.  C) This is as exciting as Green Borscht Tuesdays.  But I eventually succumbed, added myself to the list and brought my first donuts, just like everyone else from Dunkin Donuts.  Whoop-De-Freakin-Doo!  But on my next turn I decided to show them how to do it.  By spending 3 times as much!

Sullivan CanottosSo I went to Sullivan Street Bakery and bought the following: 6 huge jelly filled Bombolonis, essentially donuts on crack.  Two sweet Canottos, pastries filled with various seasonal fruits, mascarpone, nuts and more (just about my favorite item at Sullivan.  Every bite tastes different.  They also have savory Canottos with prosciutto among other things), and two of the best Almond Croissants you will find in NY.  Game over!  Goodbye Friday Donuts, hello Green Borscht Tuesdays.  Till this day we still talk about how Friday Donuts somehow sunk into oblivion after that breakfast

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You can walk on 47th between 10th and 11th and easily miss 3 gems.  An Ice cream maker, a Bodega, and the aforementioned bakery, the closest thing we have to a Roman forno.  Besides the sweet stuff, you got a plethora of goodies that will satisfy any bread aficionado.  Highlights include a chestnut-colored walnut raisin loaf that goes very well with butter in the morning.  A baguette like Stirato that is airy, chewy, and best before the cleaning lady comes (so messy).  I love bringing it home when Mrs Ziggy makes soup and pop it in the oven for a few minutes (I wait until temp reaches 375 or when the smoke alarm goes off.  Whichever comes sooner).  Another similarly messy deliciousness is the marvelous Pugliese.

Sullivan Pecorino biancaYou will also find various paninis, and the popular thin crust room temperature pizzas.  One of my favorites is the aged pecorino filled Strecci, wonderfully chewy and salty pizza dough.  Or try the Strecci topped with tomatoes (or olives, feh!) and a touch of Rosemary

I first discovered Sullivan inside Scarpetta’s bread basket, aka the sickest bread basket in town.  Then it started following me in various specialty stores until I finally popped in, and pretty much never left.  Sometimes they call the cops or try to hit me with Jim Lahey’s heavy cookbook.  Rarely works!  Love knows no bounds.

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Eating Without Ziggy – Battle of the Soups, Chinatown

Chronicles of the Hummus Whisperer…

Believe it or not, sometimes I eat without my foodie-call Ziggy. While its never the same as eating with my dear companion or with my dear wife the Hummus Punisher, I’ll resume coverage of my independent food experiences with this column.

Japan:
With winter just around the corner,  wannabe foodies and pepperazzis (obsessive food photo snappers) indulge in tomato soup at hale & hearty soups.  But I started the week with a $6.50 lunch special veggie Ramen at Ajisen Noodle on Mott Street and it’s  just what the doctor ordered.  It originated in Kumamoto of Kyushu, Japan in 1968.  Their ramen is chewy, straight and thin coupled with the secret recipe of a tonkotsu soup base (white soup base from which bones, meat, vegetables and other fine ingredients are cooked for many hours producing a milky white broth).
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Did I mention that I usually hate soups? this post is a great way to offend my mother and mother-in-law as they have been given countless head shakes when offering soup.

China:
I decided to pass on the typical American-Chinese soups that you can find just about anywhere in America.  Xi’an famous foods (cash only)  is certainly not a typical Chinese establishment, with one other location in flushing Queens.  Western Chinese cuisine of the ancient city of Xi’an is served here.  The spicy cumin lamb soups is a fusion of Chinese and middle eastern cuisines at its finest.  The soup had a pleasant aroma from the lamb-bone broth with one delicious extra long flat hand-pulled noodle.  Noodle quality is superb for $8. This father and son run place seats about 20 ppl so get here early as it packs up fast with a long line outside.  Looking around at the plates at the two communal tables, this place is giving Mission Chinese a run for its money in terms of quality and price.  This is definitely my favorite of the group, more to come on this place.
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Japan:
 For a hip, minimalist atmosphere,  stop by Bassanova (cash only).  With the original location in Japan, this newcomer opened in July 2013 in a convenient spot around the corner from canal street.  In addition to other platters, they serve only three Ramen soups in ceramic bowls imported from the original’s hometown of Setagaya.  I enjoyed the Tondaku green curry ramen while sitting at the steamy bar with a boom box playing hip-hop.  Despite a disappointingly steep dollar to Ramen  ratio for any ecconoisseur, the soup displayed colorful ingredients such as moist grilled Berkshire pork, mixed  greens, shrimp, okra, and red bell pepper, and a secret base with a good hint of green curry.  I attacked this soup with brutal force. Who knew Ramen soup would taste so good while listening to “gangsta’s paradise” and enjoying  the “Prado” wallet you just bought on Canal street for your girlfriend.
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Categories: Chinatown, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Florence – City of Eugene

Today the plan was to write one of those “lazy posts” on the Italian City of David.  Its where I spend some time picking the best pictures of some place I visited recently and just throw them in here with minimal word content.  But it just feels weird to do that today due to some circumstances.

When people mention the subject of Trip Advisor, the immediate thing that comes to mind to most people is Reviews.  Mainly reviews of Restaurants, Hotels,  and Attractions.  But very few know about Trip Advisor’s other powerful arm, the Forum.  You can spend a month in some city or country’s TA forum and gain a wealth of information.  Information that is absent from your guidebook.  The forum to me is internet’s best travel tool.  All this, thanks to regular forum participants that spend their spare time helping tourists with the various questions they have.  They are some of their city’s greatest ambassadors.  One of those ambassadors was Eugene Martinez who tragically passed away a few days ago.  I never actually met Eugene but we came very close when I was there in June.  Eugene was a tremendous help in making our Florence stay as memorable as it was.  From my interactions with him and from what I heard he was kind, caring, funny, and passionate about the city of Florence and Tuscany.  He will be sorely missed.

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Categories: Florence, Italy, Tuscany | Tags: , , , , | 7 Comments

Georgian Bread in Brighton Beach – The Looooooove Boat!

AdjaruliIf only my parents would have taken me to Georgian cafes for some delicious Khatchapuri instead of staying home watching The Love Boat all those years.  Would I have appreciated it as a kid?  Not sure.  I know my youngest who went with us to one of those a few weeks ago, would have rather stayed home and watch the same Full House episode for the 25th time.  You realize that your kid watched a particular episode for the 25th time when you as a parent already know the entire episode by heart without actually ever watching it.  I’m still convinced that that is the reason our goldfish, Ziggy Jr. Jr. (not to be confused with our previous goldfish Ziggy Jr.) leaped to his death.  When you hear that music, when one of the adults on the show explains yet another life lesson to the kids, on an hourly basis, there’s just so much you can take.

Georgian BreadYou know the place is authentic when you are not sure exactly of its name. Georgian Bread?  Tone Cafe?  Khachapuri-R-Us?  Whatever its called, this Brighton Beach gem is worth the schlep, even while being a little out of the main babushka hub.  Lets call it Tone.  Tone recently renovated to transform a takeout place into a takeout place with a cozy, rustic, attached sit down with gorgeous views of the oven.  The only type of oven in NYC where you can say “gorgeous views of the oven”.  In a city filled with some amazing and unique bakeries, add Tone, or the Georgian bread place near you to you list.Tone Cafe - Georgian Bread

The main draw here is the Khatchapuri, essentially bread with cheese which can come in various forms and sizes.  But the one to get is the Adjaruli Khatchapuri, a boat shape bread topped with Farmer’s Cheese and an egg cracked open right before serving.  You then mix in the egg with the cheese and the result is a gorgeous feast for all senses.  The bread is hard, crispy and the perfect partner for that rich, runny mess you just made.Adjaruli

The Adjaruli is made to order, and can take as much as an hour to make.  Anywhere between 30-60 minutes to be exact.  And while you wait, you can either order other things, or drool over all the bread being made next door via the glass wall , or do both (RECOMMENDED!). So grab a napkin (something heavy duty and pretty.  Not what you got in the deli last night and saving them for a special occasion) and lets take a look at how they are making those other love boats, the plain ones…

Tone Cafe - Georgian Bread

Master slaps the bread inside the stone oven

Tone Cafe - Georgian Bread

Bread master prepares the bread

Tone Cafe - Georgian Bread

Mmmmm… come to Ziggy

Tone Cafe - Georgian Bread

Guy with the stick puts the bread into cooling area

We managed to eat about half of the Adjaruli because we were no longer hungry after pre-stuffing ourselves with the following goodies.  The best perhaps came first.  Lobio, essentially a sick red bean salad, with ground walnut, pomegranate and spices.  The perfect starter!  Imeruli was another form of Khatchapuri, this one being cheese filled soft bread.  Satisfying, although not particularly unique to us.  Mtsvadi, Shashlik (Shis Kebab) was a decent kebab.  The “Kababi” on the other hand, ground beef pork perfectly seasoned and slow cooked, wrapped in flat bread was fantastic.  Drinks available are the normal Russian fare including the sweet Pear Soda, and the Kompot (like a fruit punch), which the Russians like to dilute with vodka they carry in water bottles.

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Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Podere Il Casale – So This is What Cheese Tastes Like!

Italy - 2013 9743 months later I’m starting to forget details about the trip.  But I’m not forgetting feelings.  I remember having that “How can I prolong this moment, I don’t want to leave, I’m such an idiot for scheduling more things than I should” feeling more than once, all in Tuscany.  And while sitting outside in Podere Il Casale on that perfect day, trying to decide whether I prefer the grape aged Pecorino or the one aged with walnut leaves, only to be interrupted by that stunning view, that feeling took over again.

Nestled smack in the middle between Pienza and Monticchiello, Podere Il Casale, an organic farm producing sheep’s (pecorino) and goat cheese that was unlike anything we ever tasted.  It was like eating cheese for the very first time.  Sandra and Ulisse run the farm since 1991.  Sandra gave us an overview of the place (much bigger than it seems at first) and cheese making process, while showing us the facilities and Ricotta making in action.  The 5 minute old Ricotta was easily the most satisfying ever.  But I couldn’t get enough of that Pecorino, especially the aged stuff.

Podere Il Casale is more than just a cheese producer.  Its a full service Agriturismo, attracting lodgers, campers, farm students and volunteers.  2 meals a day including a wood oven pizza expert hanging around in the premises (how can I get a pizza expert hang around my premises, all I have is a crazy neighbor and her dog), cooking classes, and various educational programs are offered.  They also produce wine, olive oil, pasta, honey, and even some prosciutto. All that in an absolute jaw dropping setting, making other pigs and sheep extremely jealous.  The cliché “Pictures don’t do this Justice” has probably been invented in South Tuscany, somewhere near here

Sandra and Ulisse also recently received a grant by the Italian government that allows them to open operations oversees.  As long as they sell and promote Tuscan based products, the gov’t will help sponsor the operations.  First stop, NYC, slated to open in a few months.  I will post details here as soon as I get them

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Categories: Italy, Tuscany | Tags: , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Dear Giovanni Rana…

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Dear Giovanni Rana,

Welcome to America!  I know all about your story and have been a fan since the day you opened your restaurant in the Chelsea Market.  A bit touristy, but a small price to pay for top quality Ravioli and Tortellini.  We are big fans of your hometown Verona as well, including the fake attraction of Romeo And Juliette (I rubbed the breasts as instructed and am enjoying an active love life ever since – Thank You!).  I also love the entire Valpolicella wine region, and I spend ample time looking for Valpolicella Ripasso in the local Chinese store.  Even though they dont carry Italian wine.  Come to think of it, its just a Chinese grocery store that doesnt carry any wine.  The word Valpolicella alone brings Mrs Ziggy into a “Fish Called Wanda” type trance.

But Mr Rana, I’m writing to you in regards to another matter.  In about an hour Mrs Ziggy will arrive home to find out that there’s nothing for her to eat.  NOTHING!  You see, for dinner tonight I made one of your prepackaged products, Tortelloni Delicato.  In the back of the package it says serving per container about 3½.  3½ I assume means 3 adults and a child, or 3 adults and the Olsen twins?  Well, we are 2 adults, and 2 children, so 3½ should work perfectly for us, right?  Well, not quite.  I divided the Tortelloni evenly for my kids (about 14 pieces each) and the leftovers (about 8 pieces) for myself as you can see above.  Mrs Ziggy gets nothing!  No amount of “Valpolicella” chanting will save the day today.  I may need to try something stronger like “Montepulciano D’abruzzo” or the names of some of your products in desperation but i doubt anything will work.  I understand that Tortelloni are slightly larger than the average Tortellini but your “About” in “About 3½” is way off for not only American standards, but Armenian village standards.  I’ve eaten in Italy many times, and I know its not Italian servings either.  Maybe the French can get away with it.  I still had to make a salad for myself, and if not for the urge to write this letter to save the starving children of the world, I would make a salad for Mrs Ziggy as well.

“About 2½” would have been more like it Mr. Rana!  I thank you for your time.

Love,

Ziggy

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Categories: Chelsea, New York City | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Battle of the Bridges Part Deux – Grub This!

photo (66)With 2 major food events scheduled for the weekend, the big news could not have come at a better time.  We apparently not pooping properly!   Yes thats right!  Leave your iphone in your pockets and invest in baby wipes and a little stool for your feet and squat away.  Is our society ready for this?  Meaning, can I be seen leaving a meeting at work early for the sole purpose of going to the restroom carrying a little stool, or would that be awkward?  But it makes complete sense to me.  However,  as with all the studies out there, I would wait about month for any disputing “Wrong! We ARE pooping just fine” arguments to emerge.

I already wrote about the first event of the weekend.  The next day the Hummus Whisperer and I planned another one of those bike bridge tours where we Citibike from place to place and eat various things.  A bike tour that would have been so much more fun if not for a certain someone’s WIFE WHO NEEDED HER PRECIOUS TO BE HOME BY 3:30! ok, needed to get it out of my system.  Here’s what we did and what we ate last Sunday…

As before, we parked by the Brooklyn Bridge on the Brooklyn Side and biked Brooklyn Bridge to Manhattan.  The earlier you do it, the easier it gets on this bridge due to the amount of tourists that flock it.

photo (58)Stop 1 – Grub Street Food Festival on Hester street.  The mother of all NYC food festivals.  If you have to choose one food festival to attend a year, this is the one.  The who’s who of the top vendor names, great space, plenty of seats, and great music.  While we were returning our bikes, we met a dutch couple who were having trouble with their bikes and needed to get to another docking station.  They were able to return only one bike.  I offered to bike along with the wife to another docking station and walk the wife to the festival but the husband insisted on running along the sidewalk much to the delight of some locals.  I cant blame him for not trusting me as I had a very bad hair day.  Anyway when they were leaving, they asked me if its a weekly thing and couldn’t believe how lucky they were when I told them its yearly.  Here’s what we ate…

photo (53)Pastrami sandwich from Ducks Eatery – Started with a bang!  Very meaty, juicy, thick sliced as pastrami should be.  Delicious.  Great job by Ducks

Israeli Scotch Eggs from Eastwood.  Fan-freakin-tastic.  “Taim Meod”.  Very unique and very good.  Add some Tehina on it and its like the Falafel and Sabich making boogie right in front of your eyes.   Eastwood people, I see you now!  I dont need a liquor license to visit you.  Some Nesher Bira Schora (Israeli black beer) will do, thanksphoto (59)

Khao Man Gai from Khao Man Gai – Essentially Chicken and Rice, ginger based sauce and a light soup.  Khao Man Gai is thai street food.  Basic compared to everything else but pleasant.  To enjoy this one is best with Thai iced tea and a seat

photo (55)Teriyaki Balls from Mimi and Coco – I dont know why it took me so long to try these.  I suppose I was never really in the mood for them, but this time those beautiful Schweddy Balls were like “Come To Ziggy”.  These were bursting with flavor on every bite.  However, I made the mistake of putting an entire ball in my mouth and for a few seconds suffered greatly from the heat (not spicy, HOT).  I would have them again

Canela – Cajeta Ice Cream from La Newyorkina – Perhaps the best thing I ate all day.  Very sweet but in a very good way, Mexican caramel, cinnamon and some love.  This is artisanal ice cream at its best.  No frozen air here.

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For the same reason I’m obsessed with travel, walking around Chinatown is one of my favorite things to do in NYC.  Live frogs, dragon fruit, massage parlors with “No special favors” signs, 99 cent new favors (see below) and all sorts of prices that cant be beat (except of course if you get for free).  Just things I don’t normally see on a daily basis.photo (61)

photo (60)I enjoy walking inside buddhist temples (until I see too many swastikas and run the hell out there) and perhaps for the first time heard a “welcome” from a monk.  It was in Pu Chao Buddhist Temple on Eldridge street.  very nicely decorated, serene temple

Near the temple you will also find one of New York’s hidden treasures, the Museum at Eldridge Street.  The museum is housed inside the great Eldridge Street Synagogue, the first synagogue in America built by East European Jews.  Built in 1887.  A strange location nowadays smack in the middle of Chinatown, but its not stopping from tourists to flock it looks like.

Back to eating, back to the bikes.  We alter plans to go to Hells Kitchen and rode back to Brooklyn instead, this time taking the Manhattan Bridge back.  Sooo much easier riding the Manhattan Bridge.  No people, No ringing, great views (below).  BTW, the Hummus Whisperer is the only person I know that rings cars.  They cant hear you HW!photo (62)

We opted to stop by and visit the Brooklyn Navy Yards, a giant shipyard used to build and repair navy and commercial vessels.  An informative little museum tells the story of not only the shipyard but the entire city.  Tours are offered by either bus or bikes due to the size of the area.photo (64) photo (63)

Picked up the bikes again and moved on toward Dumbo, the #1 destination currently for wedding, bat mistvah, get out of prison pictures.  People watching and scenery doesn’t get much better than Dumbo these days.

Our destination is the new Smorgasburg which recently moved from Dumbo to Pier 5.  Pier 5 is as stunning.  Before we parked I get a text from my friend Val saying that he’s at this food festival near the Brooklyn Bridge Park, figuring he’s telling me something new that I ought to know.  I surprised him and family minutes later.

We sampled some Short ribs from Takumi Taco yet again.  Still good though perhaps a tad drier this time.

Fried Chicken from Buttermilk Channel was just ok.  A bit greasy and sweet batter that’s not to my liking.  Not a very good line/taste ratio here.

Mighty Quinn’s and its mighty line still rule this show rightfully so, but I didnt have it this time (My friend Val did and loved it)

The best thing that came out of this for me was Vermont Maple Lemonade.  This grown man drives every weekend to NYC to open a lemonade stand.  Holy smokes it was good.  Refreshing and tasty.  Perhaps the best lemonade I ever had.

One last bike pick up, a quick randevu with the red hook, a near death with a cabbie, and another one where a leaf landed on my face and blinded me temporarily, and back to the car in one piece.  Till next timephoto (65)

Categories: Brooklyn, Lower East Side, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Pizza and Beer With Bonci and Parla

010My publicist advised me that my next career step should be to either start attending food events or look into hair replacement procedures.  On Saturday I attended a food event.

Gabriele Bonci, one of Italy’s greatest pizza makers, and Katie Parla one of Italy’s greatest food publicists/experts/educators/sommeliers/Uyghur food lover, were doing their thing at Paulie Gee’s in Greenpoint.  Bonci was dishing out some fantastic looking and tasting pizzas, Parla was serving Italian craft beer, and Paulie was busy giving away wifi passwords.  Actually it was fun chatting with Paulie again. You will never meet a more down to earth guy.

A few months ago we went to Rome, and one of my “musts” was a visit to Pizzarium, Bonci’s place behind the Vatican.  But the closer I got to the date the more I knew that its just not gonna be possible due to the proximity of Pizzarium to the Vatican exit.  All I had to do was envision that look.  The look I would get from Mrs Z after a pilgrimage to a place with no seating at a moment where seating is absolutely crucial (Vatican museum + 2 hour Vatican garden tour + St Peters = Seating).  However, thanks to Katie Parla and her foodie colleagues, Il Sorpasso turned out to be a valid alternative.  So, I couldn’t go to Pizzarium, but Pizzarium came to me, to Brooklyn

The Pizzas were as good as advertised.  Slice after slice coming in bursting with flavor from the various combinations, showcasing Bonci’s creativity.  From the Speck with Pumpkin to Funghi/Potato/Taleggio to Swiss Chard with Guanciale.  Bonci, who had to make some adjustments working with Paulie’s oven then finished by pulling out something that resembled (with the help of Katie’s beer) 3 chickens lying in the missionary position.  But after a closer look, it seemed more like the opposite position.  Another closer look revealed it was just pizza dough.  And the surprise inside was a pork loin – DELICIOSO!

Parla’s craft beer selection was spot on.  We couldn’t get enough of the citrusy Seson with Chinotto, at least until the next one arrived.  Fantastic aromas, and deep lasting flavors all around.  It was great to finally meet Katie, and mama Parla who practically painted our entire Italy itinerary for the next trip.

The thought crossed my mind while driving in.  Perhaps Bonci’s old friend Anthony Bourdain will be there.  But instead I got to meet Nick Anderer of Maialino.  It was perfect timing as well after I posted on Chowhound my sound approval of the new white truffle prices at Maialino, lowest in the city turns out, until the NoMad started offering them at cost (lunch there tomorrow).  I wish I could have spent more time chatting with Anderer, but I couldn’t leave Mrs Ziggy alone for too long.  With her “Fish Called Wanda” syndrome and all the Italian men roaming around, potentially a deadly combination.

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Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | 8 Comments

La Tellina in Siena – All in the Family

Italy - 2013 1449I don’t know why it took me so long to write about La Tellina.  Its not like I was busy writing about more important things.  But the truth is this was a memorable and fun lunch.  Picking this particular one I remember wasn’t easy, as I wasn’t able to find many bloggers or Chowhounders out there talking about Siena.  But as much as I prefer not to follow TripAdvisor forum recommendations, I’ve decided in this case to trust the Siena expert with a pizza avatar from Alaska.  Forum helpers with food, wine glass or Borat icons usually know their food.  Do not trust those with cute animals or pictures of their babies.

If you look at the dictionary for classic family trattoria, you may see a picture of La Tellina, inside and out.  Husband cooks, wife serves, and sister and mistress are in the act as well, if I understood correctly, not really sure.  La Tellina specializes in seafood and cuisine from the south (cook from Naples) which was completely fine with us after a Pici filled 4 days in Tuscany.

We started with a fine and refreshing Caprese salad. Absolutely fantastic fresh mussels with “I’m not washing my hands anytime soon” addictive sauce.  I was dipping everything in there including fingers and car keys.  Grilled polenta with some of the best tasting porcini of the trip was spot on.

Homemade meatballs were as solid as traditional meatballs can get.  I live in the meatball capital of the world and these were some great melt in your mouth balls. Spaghetti with fresh mussels and clams – garlicky, packed with flavor. Simply grilled whole sea bass was perfectly cooked.  We love to grill whole branzinos at home and this one was better than we ever did.

La Tellina - Caprese La Tellina  -Mussels La Tellina - Poricini La Tellina  -meatballs La Tellina Spaghetti La Tellina Staff La Tellina

Categories: Italy, Tuscany | Tags: , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

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