Another fantastic eating year is in the books folks. Just to be on the safe side, for the purpose of this post, I’m not planning to eat anything until 2020. Figured I’ll give this Intermittent Fasting thing that everyone is talking about a go finally. Eat freely for the first 362 days of the year only. Ever wonder why these lists come out so early in December by Eater, and the rest of them? Do they not plan to eat anything interesting the rest of the year and postpone all eating assignments to January?
Anywho, its actually been a rather a rough year, and perhaps contrary to the first line of the post, not exactly my favorite food year. Personal tragedies, and an accelerated number of great eateries closing all over the city contributed. There’s no more rhyme or reason to restaurants closing these days. But 2019 still saw some great openings and old favorites continue to deliver…
Peking Duck at Pinch Chinese
Who said the most expensive item on the menu is often the best. I did. Many times. Because its true more often than not. This $105 duck that needs to be ordered and paid for days in advance is a triumph. And not bad value considering the four of us couldn’t finish it. Without sounding too much like the Oscars, this is the third nomination for Pinch Chinese who previously got nods for the Wind Sand Chicken and Crab dish in this space.
Crabmeat Tom Turmeric at Taladwat
2019 saw the talented David Bank (Pure Thai Cookhouse) finally open another massively successful Thai hit in Hell’s Kitchen, And he somehow managed to keep it fresh in Little Thailand. In about half a dozen visits during the year, only once I did not order this well balanced milky goodness. With Gloria now shuttered, this is the best crab dish in the kitchen today.
Pastrami Sandwich at Hometown BBQ Industry City
Yes, this means I finally found a parking spot in Industry City. And yes, I finally found a compelling reason to visit Industry City. This ultra flaky pastrami may be as good as it gets in NYC today. It borders too salty on the first few bites, but settles in beautifully. Fatty in all the right places, like slow dancing with your mother in law. A nice homage to the classic Jewish deli pastrami on rye.
Tagliolini al Ragu at Rezdora
If you look at the word ‘Bastardized’ in the dictionary you’ll see a picture of the classic American spaghetti Bolognese. If you ever had the real thing, Tagliolini al ragu in Emilia Romagna or Tajarin in Piedmont, you are probably nodding profusely right now. So before you hurt yourself, head to Rezdora. It shouldnt surprise anyone considering chef/owner Stefano Secchi’s resume includes Modena royalty Osteria Francescana, and Hosteria Giusti.
Eater
Parrillada de Setas at Tomiño Taberna Gallega
When I dine alone, I often order mushroom dishes, because I’m legally not allowed to order them when I’m on a date. Its in my marriage contract. And sometimes when I see a good looking mushroom dish on the menu while with Mrs Z, I have to sneak back into the place on another day in order to have it. This one was worth the hassle. A wonderful sweet and savory medley of Enoki, King Oyster, Maitake with goat cheese, garlic and honey.
Wagyu Ragu at Kāwi
Perhaps the most important opening of the year in NYC doesnt get enough attention. Probably because of the mall location (Hudson Yards). There are about 5 very solid dishes I can pick from Kawi, but the Wagyu ragu that comes with table side scissored rice cakes is a no brainer. The kind of umaminess not experienced since the debut of Ssam Bar’s spicy rice cakes.
Carrots at Ducks Eatery
Leave it to smoking wizard Will Horowitz to make carrots taste this good. The man behind the the legendary pastrami, watermelon ham, and goat neck (a former Top Dish) got another hit which got vegan chain By Chloe’s attention. The carrots are treated just like pastrami which means it takes about a week to make them taste like meat.
Lobster Noodles at Wayan
One of the most thrilling openings of the year, and a dish I think about often, sometimes in most inappropriate moments. Like when Mrs Z tells me about her day and then ruins the moment with a “Are you listening”? Its like the most amazing Mazemen (drier Ramen) you’ll ever have. Ramen noodles, chili, butter, soy, thai basil and plenty of Maine lobsta.
Djolof Fried Rice with chicken at Berber Street Food
In vanishing NY its refreshing to see places like Berber Street Food keep opening. Michelin trained Diana Tandia created quite the sweet formula to attract a slew of locals very quickly. The Djolof is a tomatoee Senegalese rice dish that is essentially like the best Biryani you’ll ever have.
Fresh Whole Fish at Hunan Slurp
The plethora of new Chinese places opening all over the city changed the way I eat fish in NYC. This whole market fresh fish is chopped with bones and all, and covered with garlic, ginger, and a supremely flavorful homemade chili sauce that I can drink from a wine glass.
Tacos, one of the four pillars of Hell’s Kitchen. Thai, Ramen, and bars are the other three. I cant think of many Hell’s Kitchen corners where you are not less than 5 minutes away from good tacos. But try telling that to the 100 or so poor souls standing on a long line in freezing temps at Los Tacos #1 (or is it #2) in Times Square because their notes say so. Oh its good alright. But in this Little Puebla there are options. Many options.
December 1st, 2019 Update:
On Thanksgiving we give thanks to the things and people we take for granted. This is perhaps the most meaningful Thanksgiving, and the first one I was not particularly looking forward to (first one without dad). So I would like to take this opportunity to give thanks..
Olivier Bistro – Its beginning to sound like another cliche, but Olivier Bistro is the type of place every neighborhood needs. I’ve been frequenting Olivier for a few years now but for some reason never wrote about it. Talented French born Olivier Verdier is constantly on his toes, offering a mix of specials and a plethora of French classics for the steady regulars. Its the closest you’ll get to an authentic French Bistro in Brooklyn. The burger is always solid. As are the Shishito peppers, Cassoulet, Moules Frites, Hanger Steak, and make sure to ask about today’s poison! (fish). I’ve never had a bad dish here. 469 4th Ave (Gowanus)
Remember that old commercial.. “Stay Fresh a little longer… say goodbye a little longer..”, The actual products dont stick, but the songs often do. If you dont remember this one its probably because, well, it doesnt exist. Its actually a Wrigley Big Red gum commercial that goes “So kiss a little longer…”, and the fresh part was only in my head. But the idea of the commercial is that the gum will keep you fresh longer than normal so you could kiss longer, for some reason. Why would anyone want to do it in public is beyond me. Kissing in public for more than 3 seconds is rare, awkward and should be banned frankly for the safety of the individuals and motorists. You practically asking for herpes. And at home you have Listerine for that.
Much of Santina’s originality is attributed to one item, Cecina. While Santina bills itself as coastal Italian, mainly Liguria and Tuscany, this chickpea pancake is different than anything we had between Genoa and Lucca. Its softer and spongier, but not in a bad way. On recent visits I enjoyed it with tuna infused with Calabrian chili, and avocado thats essentially the best Guacamole within a two mile radius. Once wrapped with the Cecina ‘slice’, you get four tasty snacks. Add the accompanied red sauce to the second or third Cecina for a change of pace and maximum oomphness. The Cecina is reason #365 why you should stop reading 
Nano 
If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you may or may not have noticed a slow moving shift. A shift in the type of establishments I frequent, and write about. Gone are the days of the almost weekly expensive meals. Hooray fast-casual! There was a time when I would enthusiastically read the power rankings and 
Owners Riccardo and Elena live upstairs, and the only thing missing in their little place on Court Street is a bell. “Like eating in someones house” is a cliche these days, but there’s no better way to describe this one. Perhaps one day they’ll get busy enough to hire more staff and function more like a regular restaurant. But for the time being, its like walking into your neighbor’s house, grabbing a newspaper, pretending you can read Italian. And after chatting about politics, and 80’s Eurotrash with the owners, about an hour later, maybe eat something.
The Crescia is like a cross between a Piadina and Laffa flatbread where you can mix and match various meats and cheeses. The Mortadella and Gorgonzola settle nicely once the taste buds get over the initial Gorgonzola funkiness. One thing about the new Italian immigrants is they dont mess around with the raw materials. No need to bastardize much these days like the old Sicilian immigrants did. Another such example here is the excellent Tiramisu.
Its been 8 months since the last update. 5 in, 5 out this time. The Z-List is essentially my favorite 50 restaurants in NYC today. I try to conduct surprise inspections as frequently as I can. I show up wearing a hat and fake mustache. Even though they dont know what I look like, you can never be too careful these days. Rumors out there that I look like Tom Branson from Downton Abbey are unfounded. I know because I founded them. Anyway here are the changes…
EV Bites is a [whenever I feel like it] feature that showcases five places in or around East Village you should know about. I will occasionally extend the border to surrounding hoods and maybe even mention a name more than once. The neighborhood of East Village in case you are not aware is an incubator for top industry talent, and a goldmine of world cuisine.
886 – Sometimes new places “expire” in my head, and I forget all about them, before they resurface somehow out of their hiding. This Taiwanese was hiding in plain sight right on the busy, glitzy side of St Marks. 886 offers one of the better lunch specials in the area where you can choose dishes like the visually pleasing sweet Taiwanese Sausage and Fried Rice, and the absolute best Popcorn Chicken I’ve ever had.
Village Square Pizza – Pizza joints in all shapes and sizes come and go in that part of the island. The intense competition in the area created a survival of the fittest environment, except that its almost impossible to determine the fittest. Sometimes I try new pizza and can pretty much pinpoint the month they’ll close (Rolio Pizza), but then there’s the curious case of Martina. Village Square is run by former employees of the famed Prince Street pizza in Soho. This is where you can get the famous Pepperoni Sicilian (square) without the hoopla (meaning tourists), and their signature white (fresh ricotta, garlic, mozzarella, honey).
Foxface – I 
Eating With Ziggy 