The triumphant post pandemic return to one of my favorite restaurants in the world. This time for dinner. Although we’ll be doing dinners only most likely at this point, you all need to experience this place for lunch. It’s an experience, even if yo are not the biggest fan of this kind of food. Though knowing many of my readers personally, chances of you not loving this menu is remote. Not too often we encounter a menu where we want to try every single dish.
Its an ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’ kinda menu, with some ingredient change but the menu stays the course overall. We usually start and end the same way. Foie Gras, smoked fish, with the brilliant rum raisin ice cream with aged rum for the finish. This time we felt a little naughty and added some prunes with chocolate (looks like we had it before). This is probably the only time we eat prunes other than.. you know….
Final Paris post. It wasnt a flawless eating trip by any stretch. In between all that brilliance we had a few hiccups (I’m looking at you Eunoé), but we were quite happy with the final result. The food scene in Paris is a lot more interesting than 10-20 years ago, when old school Bistros were just Bistros, and proper Asian and other ethnic food was almost nonexistent. All this means with some careful researching you can create quite the varied food itinerary. Although personally I was mainly focused on food that’s not part of my diet back at home.
Escargot at L’Aubergeade
I’ve already written about this hidden gem in the 12th. Very popular with locals. In fact we were one of few that were not given hugs by the owner (reflected in my Yelp review!) who was running around as if there were two of him. Well, until we realized there were in fact two, twins. I could have picked pretty much any dish from this meal, but the addictive Escargot stood out for us. Just the right amount of butter and garlic, just like we like them.
“Tomato” at Granite
Tom Meyer’s Granite is a welcomed retreat from the mad scramble Louvre nearby. A 10+ dish feast for all senses. I dont take detailed notes anywhere, but if I did here, it would read like a novel. There were too many hits to mention, but the Tomato dish was the most memorable one. Of course it was not just a tomato, but a “welcome to a Michelin star in Paris tomato”. A flavor symphony with each morsel.
Sweetbread at Parcelles
A local gem that became a tourist darling once the NYT and other publications took note. Its one of the hottest tables in Paris these days. While all dishes were great especially one particular Calf’s head carpaccio, the Sweetbread is the reason to come. Whether you like sweetbread is almost irrelevant. With that mashed potato, dark veal jus and capers, its a spoonful of pure bliss. They only make about 10-15 of them, so some call to reserve it for dinner.
Jambon Beurre at Le Petite Vendome
A sandwich legend among the Guccis and the Louis in the area. Sandwiches available at the bar or takeout, and they are simply sensational. We shared a classic, and one with quality black pepper and goat cheese. Just my kind of old school at a price of less than half of some of the other notables. Nice atmosphere, music, and fun, happy waiters even when they get super busy. Best to arrive right after lunchtime if you can, when the pesky tourists disperse.
Argentinian Entrecôte at Blanca
The fact that we had this a day after our visit to the famed Paul Bert is everything you need to know. Superb quality meat cooked to med-rare perfection. I hesitated to put anything on it because it was so flavor packed but after trying it I happily poured the homemade vinegary chimichurri and black pepper. Its a tiny place so reserve ahead. Music on Wednesdays as of this writing.
Whiting at Perception
The best and fun way to take advantage of the Paris Michelin culture is try to find the places that are on the cusp of stardom. Perception in the 9th is one of many Asian inspired contemporary neo Bistros, led by a talented Korean chef. While I could have easily picked the stuffed cabbage (ratatouille moment for Mrs Z), or BBQ pork cooked three ways, the beautiful, delicate whiting was unlike anything I ever had.
Cassoulet at La Forge (5th)
When I was younger, and had a head full of dazzling hair, my favorite French dish was the Cassoulet. When I saw it on menus I would stop reading the rest of it. That’s why I was setting myself up for disappointment at La Forge, even though its one of their specialties. Its so often not the same as you remember. Needless to say it was as glorious as I was hoping and then some. Although the duck confit at this Southwestern old-timer was equally as good. One of our favorite meals.
Profiteroles at Grande Brasserie
While I’ve eaten my fair share of Profiteroles during my young life, I never imagined that it would make this list. Between the size, and the flavors of this monster, its just about the best Profiteroles we ever had. Not surprising considering Grande Brasserie is one of the more reliable traditional Brasseries in the center. And the attractive, well lit room is a major bonus for us young boomers.
Cheese at Paroles de Fromagers
The plan, to eat a great amount of cheese while in Paris was a big fail. All the popular stores were brimming with tourists, and the rest of the time my stomach was brimming with other food. But I saved room for the cheese and wine class at Paroles de Fromagers where it was not only educational, but some of the tastiest Cheese I ever had. Époisses, Saint-Nectaire, Roquefort Carles just to name a few.
Pastries at Cyril Lignac
Even though they didnt quite look like this when we ate them at the airport. The Equinox, Citron, and Kouign-Amann, all outstanding in that order. I dont usually get excited by looks, but these were the most hypnotic pastries I’v ever seen, with the flavors to match. And they open at 7 am (at least the one on Paul Bert). I mean nothing opens this early in Paris
Whether you are a first timer, a ten timer, urologist or whatever, you may find some of these random tips useful. Or not. I have no idea. That’s why I like to use the word “Random”. It relieves some of the pressure to provide the most necessary tips, such as how to carry your wallet, say hello, and my absolute favorites, “Bring Your Camera”, and “Wear Comfy Shoes”. I prefer to focus on tips not covered as much by the mainstream.
Stay in the 11tharrondissement
I suppose what’s a better way to get your attention than start with some controversy. With so many areas to choose from, I suggest staying in one where the closest major attraction is… a cemetery. But that’s precisely the idea here. Its an often overlooked area, mainly outside the tourist route. While you’ll see plenty of tourists, its a nice mix of locals, tourists, boutique shops, cafes, and most importantly one of the better food areas in Paris. Its like the East Village of Paris. After visiting all areas in the center, it felt good coming back here.
Take a food/drink experience
A food experience is something I always look for in my travels. Mainly food tours. The problem of food tours in Paris is that most tours offer mostly the familiar stuff… Croissant, Baguette, cheese, cold cuts…) but the experience as a whole including meeting other visitors, and a fun guide still may make it worthwhile. But instead of a food tour, consider something like a French cheese and wine class to get up to speed with these important and often misunderstood staples. Paroles de Fromagers is not a collection of cheesemongers on parole, but a shop that offers these fun educational experiences including tastings and workshops. And if Agathe is your “teacher”, you are in for a treat.
Spend a night in Chartres
A charming town becomes a magical one at night. Usually between April and January (check the current year plan), the striking cathedral and monuments all over town get illuminated. The cathedral light show alone will make famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. You also have the picturesque medieval center, the tiled Maison Picassiette, and on the way you can stop by the splendid Château de Maintenon (below)
Louvre’s real secrets are the entrances
Much has been said about this one, but why no one takes advantage. While the line by the pyramid snakes around for like a mile, just walk 5 minutes to the “Porte des Lions” entrance where the two lions will greet you with a much nicer welcome. Thats two lions more than most likely the amount of people you’ll encounter. But not from the river side as the gate may be closed. From the Jardin du Carrousel side. Once inside in the lobby turn left. Strangely if you turn right, you may see a sign saying you are at the wrong building. Just turn around.
See “How to become a Parisian in one hour”
Here’s a tip in the true sense. Instead of seeing school level artistry featuring topless women at a small fortune, why not see a show that’s much more of a bang for the buck. Unless of course no topless is a non starter. “How to become a Parisian in one hour” is not exactly a riot, but a witty one man show by an animated comedian. Its a fun hour and change. And in the process you learn a few things about Parisians, metro, shopping, Parisian dog poop, and even get a chance to ask him questions at the end.
Eiffel’s best angle is from Trocadéro
If you are like Mrs Z, you’ll likely drag your significant other to the “Iphone Tower” (because thats all you’ll mostly see) every other day. Even when you stay 30 minutes away. We saw the tower from every angle at different times of the day, and nothing remotely comes close to the view from Trocadéro Square at night where you see the icon in all its glory. (The last time we did that was October 7!). Other areas closer to the tower were much less pleasant.
Adjust your Breakfast needs
Its 8 am, you are tired of Yoghurt, croissant, baguette, butter, jam, rinse, repeat for the past 5 days and you are ready for a nice omelet. An hour later, you give up searching and settle for a croissant, baguette, butter, jam breakfast elsewhere for double the price and no yoghurt. While you can find amazing egg dishes, and other goodies Americans associate with breakfast in Paris, it doesnt mean that you’ll find many kitchens serve these things before 11 am. Even if Google shows that the corner Brasserie is open early, it doesnt means its kitchen is open. Instead follow the local crowds into bakeries.
Put Palais Garnier on the must list
You can easily overlook this gem if you only focus on “guide book musts”. Although not quite as famous as the Louvre, this might be a more memorable experience depending on your interests. Opulence on another level. And that’s just what people are normally wearing for this photo shoot. This is where I want my next wedding to take place!
Learn your RERs and SNCFs
Using the metro in Paris is very convenient. I have to admit that as a New Yorker I was envious. It took us a few trips to Paris to finally use it, but once we did, it became fairly easy with the aid from best friend Google Maps. If only my friend gave me the proper advice when we went to Chantilly. While you can get there with RER, it’s not only not the best way, but you risking a fine when you take the wrong train back which is quite easy to do. For within the city use the RER. For intercity, use the comfy and sometimes even strangely cheaper SNCF.
Yes, have a crepe, but also try a Galette
I’m shocked by the amount of visitors that come to Paris and never try a Galette. Ok, I only met two, but they are out there I’m sure. Galette is the savory, good looking cousin of the Crepe, made with buckwheat flour and filled with cooked ham, egg, and comté cheese. After a big lunch, I cant think of a better alternative to pizza as a light dinner. Its a Brittany import, and the best place to try them are Brittany imports like the Breizh Cafe chain.
Thats all I got today kids. Just remember to wear comfy shoes and dont forget to take your camera!
I was told by a local to keep this one a secret. I told him sure no problem, but failed to mention that I’m not very good at keeping secrets. Not to mention the local who gave me this secret equally sucks at it. Sometimes secrets get you in trouble. Like when I told my primary doctor that I smoked cigarettes at the age of 6. He’s old and didnt quite get the half joke and sent me for a Chest CT scan and other tests.
With the war in the Middle East consuming our lives these days, our visit to L’Aubergeade feels like ages ago. But it was only last month. On our first night in Paris the stars aligned, and everything clicked. Well, until we picked the “iPhone Tower” as our after meal Passeggiata. Its like a giant iPhone commercial these days as that’s all you see all around you. iPhones, red balloons, and a tower somewhere between it all.
L’Aubergeade is an old timer, run by two old timers. Twins in fact. I was about to say to my wife, “its like there are two of him”, until I noticed our waiter/owner had a different shirt this time. The twins easily handled the entire house, running around like two teenagers. In the US we are accustomed to seeing double the amount of workers in places this size, not to mention half the age of the twins.
Early on the silky smooth Foie Gras with clementine jam was a nice preview of things to come. Even more memorable was the addictive Escargot. Garlicky, buttery, awesomeness. Just like we like them. The problem with perfect escargot on your first night in Paris is that the rest of the stay they may seem pedestrian (and they were).
The deconstructed steak tartare was more deconstructed than I anticipated with all the ingredients including all the sauces on the table. But after mixing it up with some adjustments I think I’m ready for a chef de Tartare at Granite. Not sure I prefer it this way but enjoyed it nonetheless.
Leg of lamb with couscous was masterfully cooked. Extremely tender and scrumptious. Finished with a nice “Norwegian Omelet”, a new one for us. Essentially a baked Alaska. Flambéed, ultra light, fluffy, with an ice cream surprise inside. My favorite kind of surprise.
L’Aubergeade is just the kind of rustic we look for on our travels. Judging by the amount of locals in the house, it seems like everyone’s kind. Its not quite on the tourist trail. The residential location in the 12th will probably make sure of that. Tremendous value to boot with 88 euros total including a nice bottle of house white. This is a major Go!
Paris visitors usually follow the same playbook. See the main sights and save room for a day in Versailles. We also followed the same playbook on our first visit, though Versailles wasnt nearly as busy back then, and my hairline looked much better in the Hall of Mirrors. But when Château of Versailles became a UNESCO World Heritage sight in 1979, another important site, less than an hour out, got the same designation.
That site is the Chartres Cathedral, the first UNESCO cathedral. No need for a welcome to Chartres sign as the towering cathedral you see upon entering the town does the job just fine. A 12th century architectural marvel that includes a record 2,600 square meters of stained glass. It ranks quite up there with the grand cathedrals of Europe. And once you see it at night from April to January, the unforgettable interior almost becomes forgettable.
No pictures, videos, or this post will properly prepare you for the Chartres Lumieres experience. The light shows on the cathedral will make the world famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. But thats not nearly the only building. The entire town including other notable monuments and bridges get their own light displays, and the entire town is transformed into something you see on Xmas movies. Except that its April, June, or maybe August.
The town also boasts a quaint medieval center, and just outside of the center you have the unusual Maison Picassiette – A property entirely decorated with mosaics of glass and china fragments. Sort of similar in a way to Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens. Overall its a fun town to explore, and Le Parc Stanislas, a bed and breakfast will make you wish you booked more nights. Its the calm before the Paris storm.
And if you have a car, on the way to/from Paris check out Château de Maintenon, a hidden gem 30 minutes from Chartres. Even on a beautiful October day the Château was fairly empty. This is the sight of the final scene of The Professional. No, not that The Professional, the good one, with Jean-Paul Belmondo.
Tough to write about food these days, but we march on.
Parcelles is one of those places that people either love or love to hate. Local buzz, followed by NYT praise put Parcelles on a hype pedestal very few are able to achieve. Reserving Parcelles isnt very hard if you have a full week in Paris. Just pick the only time available, cancel your Louvre tickets, move dinner plans, and make sure you are around the Marais that day. Easy shmeezy.
Parcelles is a comfortable, sophisticated Bistro in a quiet corner of Le Marais. While its just far enough from the Falafel crowds of the Marais, it is still a destination for FOMO travelers. Well, like myself. The problem however when you are surrounded by FOMO travelers, you are feeling the stress from people that are not entirely comfortable with a menu as such. Thankfully there’s always Gnocchi.
Talking about stress, two young guys ran the entire house. I’m always amazed with European restaurants that operate with half the number of employees of similar restaurants in the US. But at Parcelles you could feel some of the stress in the room. No brownie points for the ambiance from me, but not only the food more than made up for it, the ambiance may be quite alright for you.
A three courser of one hit after another, starting with an outstanding silky smooth Calf’s head carpaccio. Even though I enjoyed it more than Mrs Z who didnt care much as she was in Paté heaven with the Paté en croute. We skipped the much hyped Gnocchi as its something I can easily get in NYC.
One of the reasons to come to Parcelles is for the Sweetbread. If you search for Sweetbread on this site you wont get many results as this is just not my thing. But this is one of those foods that I feel one should not easily give up on. I call it The Bacalhau affect. The Parcelles version may convert you. Expertly cooked Sweetbread with mashed potato, dark veal jus and capers, a spoonful of pure bliss. They only make 10-15 per day, so some call to reserve their Sweetbread for dinner.
Another solid dish was the monkfish, even though it relied a bit too much on the accompanied sauce. The Sweetbread is just a tough act to follow when you are sharing. Chocolate tart with caramelized pecans was another standout. While I’m not the biggest fan of Chocolate desserts, I’m a sucker for a good chocolate tart. Go!
You eat Argentinian of course. When I was researching Paris food, one thing became fairly clear. Its not your father’s Paris. Much has changed since we’ve been here last (15-20 years). The restaurants back then are now referred to as “traditional”. And the city is now flooded with all sorts of ethnic eats, Asian/French fusion, Neo-bistros, and Asian/French Neo-bistros. This made researching a lot more fun and challenging at the same time. Do I want Tagine, duck confit, or Argentinian steak on Wednesday?
Live music on Wednesdays made that decision easier. Still, tiny Blanca in food heaven 11th arrondissement was a risky bet after a less than desirable meat streak (I’m looking at you Paul Bert). But this turned out to be the most memorable meal in a week full of them. The ultra talented guitarist/singer helped. Not only a beautiful voice, but he can play other instruments with his mouth. It was like a three person band for the price of one.
We were the only tourists in the house, confirmed by our bubbly Mexican waitress. It is time to change that ;). Although Owner/chef Violetta doesnt speak my English, we shared a few laughs. She has friends in high places, including baker Thierry Breton (no, the other one) and his outstanding bread that is part of your Blanca experience. One of the better breads of the trip. In NYC this kind of quality now comes with a price tag.
Started with perfectly blistered Shishito peppers with a light creamy guac that worked very well together. No matter how much Shishito we eat, we rarely get tired of them. Cheese empanadas that seemed on every table, were well seasoned and tasted much better than they looked.
The Pièce de Résistance and one of the reasons for the visit was the Argentinian Entrecôte. Unlike at Paul Bert the night before, cooked to med-rare perfection, flavor packed, and cheaper too. It came naked with salt, black peppers and homemade vinegary chimichurri on the side. I hesitated to put anything on it as it was that good, but pouring some of that chimichurri and black pepper turned out to be net positive.
Another highlight was the “chicken mistake”. We actually ordered the monkfish instead, but after a quick inspection we were happy to keep the super moist, expertly cooked mistake. It came with morels and mashed squash. Washed it all down with a potent Argentinian Cabernet. And finished with a very satisfying, light, flan with caramel. Flawless!
Another trip in the books. A shot one this time to start a road trip to LA. Other than Napa which we didnt care for, we had a fantastic time. Sorbu, yet again was our first stop with a car full of luggage (its 10 mins from the airport). Its the perfect welcome to Portland kind of place. Get the eggplant sandwich, and any of the rotating pastas. But you really cant go wrong here. And now that I tried half of the menu at Scotch Lodge, I’m even more convinced. The Brie (again), Arancini, Semifredo were the standouts this time. Still one of the coolest bars in America.
Best “discovery” this time was Matt’s BBQ. Not exactly a local secret. In fact we showed up before noon on a Sunday and there was already an outdoor party and a line (moves quick). Fantastic Texas style BBQ rivals some of the best we’ve had like Hometown in NYC. Brisket, ribs, Jalapeño cheddar sausage, pulled pork, pork belly burnt ends (wow), all spot on flavors and no dryness in sight.
Enjoyed Phuket Cafe overall, but probably not as much as I hoped. I think I prefer sister Eem (below). With that said, I would come back for the fish salad and Panang curry with beef. The signature Paella was a little off. Way too much Socarrat and flavors just didn’t pop. Sides, smaller dishes were just ok, and I didnt care for their Sticky rice/mango interpretation. Pure Thai Cookhouse spoiled us forever.
September 2023 Post
Portland Oregon doesnt have a particular cuisine that I know. But for a city the population size of Staten Island, NY it has probably the best concentration of great eats per capita in the US. With an amazing array of restaurants and over 500 distinct food carts, trucks, and even double decker buses dispersed all over the city, you are within minutes away from great food no matter where you are. The challenges as a tourist is to sort all of this out and come up with a balanced plan. Heck, I had to quit online chess for a week for this. I think we did alright….
Lets start with the carts…
Sorbu
Went here straight after landing (after checking out McMenamins Kennedy School hotel – what a neat place). Sorbu is Tuscan inspired sandwiches recommended to me by a friend who lives in Livorno (Tuscany) years ago. A very nice combination of flavors, textures and quality homemade bread. Supremely juicy and crispy Porchetta. Eggplant with Torta di Ceci (Tuscan coast chickpea pancake) and Mozzarella was probably even better. These two are the menu staples while the rest rotate. If I have to pick one cart of the bunch, this is it. But the rest are not too shabby.
Bing Mi
Sexy name, sassy snack. I believe its the only pod (a cluster of carts) in the more upscale Northwest District. The specialty is Jianbing (“bing”), a Chinese crepe that was part of my Brooklyn food tours (RIP). I opted for the Chinese sausage and extra egg and this was a typical yet solid version. Got the crisp, flavor and spice level just right.
Bake on the Run
Indo-Guyanese cart in the new Lil’ America pod, though the cart has been around for a while and seemingly popular. We sampled a few items but settled on a lovely, thick Dahl, served like soup. Very rich, deep flavors that stay with you for a while. Really one of the better Dahls I’ve ever had.
Baon Kainan
Some of these carts like this Filipino cart serve different menus on different days and times just like restaurants. Baon Kainan brunch on Sundays may include Talongsilog, fried eggplant with garlic rice, veggies and perfectly cooked sunny side eggs. Or the similar Tosilog with pork belly. Just good ol’ solid comfort food. Even better is the sweet Ube (purple yam) rice cake. I’d come back just for this.
Tov Coffee & Tea
I believe that every city should have an Egyptian caffe inside a double decker bus. Tov is not a gimmick for tourists as the product quality is very important to the owner. The specialty here is a cold brew they make with cardamom and the various drinks they make with it like the “Nectar of the gods” with caramel. But just sitting inside the insta-bus is pretty cool.
The restaurants…
Petite Provence
This became our reliable morning delight as it was right near our apartment. Whether for pastries, eggy breakfasts or waterfall picnic supplies, namely Baguette with butter and jams.
Scotch Lodge
A four year old basement speakeasy/whisky bar, voted one of the best bars in the US by Esquire. Probably the most interesting drink menu I’ve ever seen with great inventive food. Although favorite drink turned out to be gin based, “Remain in Light”
Highlights were the house specialty Fried Brie, like mozzarella sticks on crack. Dill fries (dehydrated pickle seasoning) are like the perfect McDonald’s fries. A silky smooth Albacore crudo was probably our favorite overall. Skip the pastas and get more fries.
Kann
This elevated Haitian is one of the hottest tables in the country as of this writing. Making reservations was like reserving Taylor Swift tix, though if you time it right and got mad “refresh” skills, it’s doable. The national dish, twice cooked pork app is a must. The tomato, stone fruit and berry salad will make you rethink fruit salads.
Mixed feelings on the duck. Flavor and texture was there, and the bed of cane syrup was particularly addictive, but the leg and breast had widely different temps. Enjoyed it nonetheless, though it didn’t quite match the brilliance of the chicken. If you ever had good jerk in the Caribbean or elsewhere, this will be a revelation. I give this one three Habaneros. Speaking of which, just about every dish has it.
Eem
As a New Yorker, without knowing the full history, it seems like Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom is thew new Andy Ricker. Just about every Thai I considered is fully or partially owned by Earl. I strongly considered the latest venture Phuket Cafe, but opted to play it safe here. It’s essentially a marriage between Thai and Texas BBQ with “vacation drinks” to help with the consummation. Start with the awesome Pina Colada.
The white curry with brisket is one of their best sellers and I can see why. Beautiful, milky, well balanced curry with that smoky brisket. Same with the chopped brisket fried rice with plenty of socarrat action. Smoked pork Krapao is another winner. A sloppy fried egg but superb tasting pork belly. Very solid sweet and sour (and hot) boneless fried chicken thighs. Nothing wrong with it but not as distinct as the others.
Cabezon
Portland excels in so many things that you might overlook some important ones, like seafood. Since 2009 Cabezon established itself as a premier seafood specialist. Comfortable room with ample space between tables. Feels almost like old school in a new school setting. Other than perhaps the meh Blinis, everything was fantastic.
The basil and phyllo wrapped shrimp was superb. Beautiful Asian flavors from the Thai basil, glass noodles and curry sauce. The mussels were even better. While not the best mussels I ever had, one of the better mussel dishes, thanks to the fries soaking up the great sauce, beans, and bits of chorizo. It’s good size too, more of an entree.
The house specialty Cioppino was fresh tasting and just about flawless. The grilled Tomba tuna was nicely cooked but since it wasn’t seasoned much it needs to be eaten quickly before it dried. And this is not the time to overlook dessert. Get the Creme brûlée and a peach cake when in season and call me in the morning. Not too early.
Yes, Portland Oregon is weird. Even for a New Yorker. Some of the quirkiness you see in East Village or Washington Square Park like ask a puppet for advice is just another corner in Portland. Same for how people generally look and dress. All you need is a 5 minute walk down Alberta Arts District to see that you are not in Kansas anymore. They have an annual nude bike race for Christ’s sake. Even the birds are weird, and possibly stoned. You’d think when a car is approaching they’d scoot faster out of the way, but they take their time and sometimes cause mini traffic jams.
For a place with the population size of Staten Island, the food scene is just ridiculous. They dont just have food trucks or carts, they got islands of them called pods. Like outdoor food courts. Around 500 food carts dispersed all over the city, and none are the same. Add a tremendous restaurant scene to the mix and you got a foodie paradise. I may have lost some sleep trying to sort out the food schedule. Being close to food rich Alberta complicated matters more. More on the food later.
Japanese Gardens
But that’s not nearly all. Portland is not the most attractive city I’ve seen. But it’s parks and gardens like the Japanese garden are world class. You can do some serious forest bathing here between Mt Tabor, the Grotto (62 acres sanctuary), and the mother of all forests, Forest Park where you can hike to the picture perfect Pittock Mansion. Portland’s collection of trees are impressive to say the least.
Other than the parks, Portland’s charm is in it’s neighborhoods. The Northwest District, especially the area around 23rd Ave is fun to explore, day or night. You’ll get a different feel once you cross the river to the lively Mississippi Ave, Williams, and the vibrant Alberta. Staying in one of those areas instead of the downtown area where most tourists (and many homeless) stay is the conventional wisdom these days.
Multnomah
But to me the biggest draw other than the food scene, is the proximity to various natural wonders. Half an hour away is Columbia River Gorge and its very accessible world class waterfalls. If you wont get Iceland vibes at Latourell Falls with its basalt, you will surely get it at Multnomah. You dont need to walk much from the parking lot for the classic shot. After chasing waterfalls, the town of Hood River conveniently awaits with its breweries and art galleries. You can either continue to Mt Hood, or come back from the Washington side of the river for another picturesque drive.
70 miles south you have Silver Falls State Park and its stunning South Fall. Dont even bother looking at pictures of this one, as its something you need to see and experience. A dramatic ending (or beginning) to a beautiful 3-5 mile hike. Then after a coffee stop in Salem, proceed to Willamette Valley, Oregon’s Wine Country. From little Iceland to little Tuscany, though with more than 500 wineries perhaps not that little. Consider Trisaetum winery, for the wine and the above average Charcuterie board.
Portland’s problems are in full display. But so is everything else that’s not going away, and that you wont see mentioned in the media. Cant wait to come back to see the rest.
Portugal surprised us with its quality and depth in the food department. By the last day, we had an inside joke when we talked about how consistently well we ate on this trip. We would take turns saying “well, there was that pizza place”, referring to a Porto meal that became the lone clear failure. A small price to pay when you wing it after lunch at the brilliant Taberna Dos Mercadores, but it stuck out like a sort thumb by the end.
The Lisbon meals were particularly noteworthy as we hit one jackpot after another. Just when you thought it could not possibly get better, it did again and again. Even some celebrity sightings to boot. Talking about celebrities, last week I met Phil Rosenthal outside the Hudson theater. We both ended up sitting fairly close to each other, seeing Alex Edelman’s last show, Just For US (I actually purchased the last two tickets of the last show. You would think there would be prizes for such things). We had a very quick chat about one of his Lisbon picks below. Of course I didnt tell him about the one I cancelled.
Tapisco
Alma’s affordable little sister is not exactly a Lisbon secret, but just outside tourist central. While we were there, service was a little tied up, entertaining a mega celebrity two tables over. For privacy reasons I won’t reveal the name, but it rhymes with Emeril Shmegasse. Stellar tapas and larger rice plates like the superb Octopus rice (above). La bomba, a riff on the Barcelona snack is the bomb. Jamon and tomato toast, so simple yet so delicious. A picture perfect, traditional Bacalhau à brás (bottom). But I cant imagine one can go wrong with anything here.
Jesus é Goês
Following the footsteps of Phil Rosenthal, and the main topic of conversation on my encounter with Phil the other day. Phenomenal Goan cooking, and surprisingly a good amount of pleasant heat throughout. The Portuguese usually arent keen on spicy. The specialty of the house is the holy burgers that come with poached egg on a spoon (above). Like little umami bombs. And the curries, like Goatling Xacuti and Chicken Cafreal feature just the kind of complexity I look for.
O Velho Eurico
Reserving tables in Portugal can be trickier than Paris or NYC. O Velho Eurico is exhibit Z, for the young and talented Zé Paulo Rocha. You essentially need to start reserving in Porto and Lisbon three to five months prior. Eurico has a north Brooklyn, sort of hipster feel to it. But with such elevated cooking for a third of the price, where do I sign. Delicate cold Bacalhau salad. Plump and succulent Piri piri shrimp. Nice use of fruits and sauces throughout, like the strips of melt in your mouth peppery pork belly with orange. Excellent fried rabbit with a creamy dill sauce (my fave, above). Just some of the awesomeness you may find here.
Ramiro
I’m not exactly listing state secrets here. We liked Ramiro so much when we first “discovered” it 12 years ago, that I would be risking sleeping in the shower (because we didnt have a couch) if I didnt book it again. Not much has changed as expected from the old timer. Outstanding prawns in all shapes and sizes, especially when they come sizzling in ultra garlicky oil. The tiger prawns in particular are outrageous (above). And this is a good opportunity to lose your Percebes virginity.
Churrasqueira do Marquês
Maybe time to counter the above with a state secret. Although walking distance to tourist central Belem, very few tourists make it to the Ajuda neighborhood. Grilled chicken is not only the name of the game, but some claim best in Lisbon. By the look of the house full of happy locals, and the bird grilled to absolute perfection, who are we to argue. And being away from the center in this case, means you getting quite a bang for the buck.
Eating With Ziggy 