Posts Tagged With: Travel

Casa Mateos – Goldilocks Dining in Ronda

Posted on May 24, 2024 by Ziggy

There’s something to be said about Ronda that made her the first place I blogged about after we got back from Andalucia. I already sang her praises in any way I could with my limited vocabulary. Its one of those perfect tourist towns that check all the boxes as far as food, beauty, uniqueness, and size go. Not to mention the Tuscan-like surrounding area.

Normally when tourists arrive at such places, they check into the hotel (perhaps the Parador or Catalonia in this case), wash, relax, and marvel at the mesmerizing views which Ronda offers. Thats what normal people do. Me? I dropped everyone and everything, battled tourist traffic while parking the car, and speed walked the 10 minutes straight to Casa Mateos to reserve for tomorrow. The last order of business in the Ronda plan.

Guiarepsol

Pound for pound Ronda was our top food city, although our two meals there could not have been more different (the other, the legendary and astonishingly cheap El Lechuguita). But I started having my doubts about Casa Mateos when the second local we met told us we absolutely must go to Tragatá, Benito Gómez’s more affordable project after two Michelin Bardal. The saving grace was when the second local, while playing chess with my friend in Olvera, enthusiastically told us about his other favorite, Casa Mateos. Crisis averted. He even helped us with what to order.

In the two weeks of wining and dining all over Andalucia, I’ve had more refined meals. I’ve had meals where the service was more memorable, or the decor was more unique, or where we were more comfortable. But this is the one meal where everything was just right (hence goldilocks). Spot-on flavors and textures that got better and better, a fine Vermouth, wine, and just the proper service that fake laughed at all my jokes. Its a solid contender for the best overall meal of the trip, and I made sure the talented female chef in the kitchen knew that.

As for the food, the mini hamburgers with oxtail didnt look like much but they were bursting with flavor. Goat cheese salad with nuts, fruits, greens and slightly fried cheese, absolutely brilliant for a simple goat cheese salad. Our new Olvera friend best tip.

The silky smooth Partridge Pate was sublime. I was still thinking about it next day on our spectacular Caminito del Rey hike. When the guide asked the group if anyone can recognize a bird she was pointing at, I said “partridge?” The truth is I have no idea what partridge looks like except in Pate form.

Then came of course another round of Huevos Trufados, something I couldnt get enough of on this trip. Eggs, potatoes, jamon, and probably truffle oil, but it works well here. Whats not to like. This might have been the most satisfying egg/potato dish of the trip.

But it was the larger dishes where the brilliance of the chef started to come through. A superb Chicken with Fideos, a strong contender for best of show. And an expertly cooked Lomo de Vaca that had more flavor than a steak specialist we visited in Granada.

When in Andalucia the first rule of thumb is get the Cheesecake and Torrija everywhere you go. Torrija is more like a bread pudding than the common description of French Toast. Here the soft cheesecake with peach was slightly better than the chocolate Torrija, but I would try both. Go!

Categories: Spain | Tags: , , , | 1 Comment

48 Hours in Cordoba

Posted on May 19, 2024 by Ziggy

It took me roughly 48 seconds to realize that a day trip to Cordoba just wont do. Between the main monuments, patios, the various distinct neighborhoods, and nearby sites, even 48 hours felt like scratching the surface. The 22nd largest city in Spain has more UNESCO sites (4) than any city in the world. Remarkable considering you have cities like Paris and Rome in the mix.

The city is full of layers showcasing its rich Roman, Jewish, and Islamic past. For much of the middle ages, it was one of the most important cities in the world. But even some of the newer parts show plenty of charm. This is not a complete guide, but more or less what we did, arriving from Seville, with Granada next. Car as always, helps.

On the way from Seville you can stop at Castillo Almodovar del Rio, only 30 minutes from Cordoba. This is another Game of Thrones site, one of many in Spain. The castle is part Casterly Rock, but mainly Highgarden, the Tyrell’s house. Just dont make the mistake of coming within an hour before closing. If they show they close at 2:30 PM, it means they lock the gate at 1:30 PM. But even being on top, walking around the castle is pretty cool. Got plenty of nice drone shots.

Check into H10 Palacio Colomera. One of many new H10 properties sweeping the country. Beautiful building overlooking the picturesque Plaza de las Tendillas (busy during the day but quiet at night. Soundproof windows). Other than an unexpected 2am wake up call and some smelly bathroom issues that can probably be sorted out, this was a fine stay.

The surrounding area is a major shopping hub. Parking is advised to be reserved ahead at Parking Calle Sevilla 5. Just Google your drive to the parking garage to know what to expect (easy, but still), and pick up your much deserved snack at La Tranquera Solo Empanadas right near the garage.

I cant think of a better welcome to patio obsessed Cordoba than a visit to Palacio de Viana. A 15th century Palace where the spectacular patios and gardens didnt seem to end (I discovered my limits). 12 distinct gardens that will give you plenty of ideas for your spring planting. The palace was occupied by various families, last one being Marqueses de Viana until 1980, hence the name.

Explore what I call the upper Centro, the area around Jardines de la Merced. The atmospheric squares around Monumento a Manolete, and Cristo de los Faroles, and the stunning facade of Palacio de la Merced, a former convent. Time for a break at La Bendita Locura for Conservas, mini sandwiches and your 15th Tinto de Verano of the trip.

After a power nap, you are ready to be introduced to the old town and the Juderia. You’ll spent some quality time together the next 24 hours. Dinner CAN be at El Rincon De Carmen. While the food didnt exactly rock my world, this is one of the most popular… you guessed it.. patios in the area and my group enjoyed it overall. Try the Huevos Rotos con Jamón. Stronger recommendations coming up.

Start the next day with a morning tour of the Juderia with a Professional Jew (his words), Jorge Gershon of Cordoba Jewish Tours. Jorge is a walking encyclopedia, but also fun and energetic. You’ll get a better understanding of the impact of Maimonides, and the complex and rich history of Jews in Spain. Seeing one of the most important Synagogues in Spain, and Casa de Sefarad which usually comes with a timed surprise are just some of the highlights.

You’ll find beautiful patios all over the city, especially in early May during the festival, but the one area that’s particularly known for them is San Basilio. Even if none of the owners open their doors, its a pleasant neighborhood for a short stroll. But its approaching lunch time and you know who is getting hangry.

Lunch is just across the river since you’ll want to check out the Roman Bridge anyway. Take your time. Bar los Romerillos is open, but the kitchen doesnt open until 1:30. Thats how you know this spot is for locals. If you are early, hang tight and have your 20th Tinto de Verano. Then try the Cogollos Ajillo. If it looks like simple lettuce, it is. But trust me. Also try the Carrillada (pork cheek).

Its almost time for your 3:30 slot at the great Mezquita. This is one of the reasons you are in Cordoba. A Mosque-Cathedral masterpiece, and one of the most unique monuments in Spain. No pictures will properly prepare you, at least as far as the depth goes. Dont miss the Mihrab, which usually faces Mecca these days, but older mosques including this one, not so much. More of historical differences in opinion.

You need a good rest prior to this dinner. The brilliant Garum 2.1 will delight all your senses, with the aid of a rare breed waiter (assuming he’ll be there). Dont skip the Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée. And try some of the award winning tapas like the Salmorejo, and oxtail. Advanced reservations of course required.

Time to say goodbye, and hello to Granada or your next destination. If Granada than a slight detour to Jaén is worthwhile. The EVOO capital of Spain is quite the looker and well outside the tourist route. You got a castle towering right above it offering spectacular views. But the biggest case for Jaén is that it evolved into a food destination. Check out MangasVerdes. More on both Jaén and MangasVerdes to come.

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La Cosmopolita – A Malaga Gem With a NY Connection

Posted on May 10, 2024 by Ziggy

They really love their long names in Spain. Officially on Google its “La Cosmopolita Malagueña | Dani Carnero | Restaurant in Malaga”. After getting a strong worded letter from Google about the name and use of special characters they decided to shorten their next project to “La Cosmo Malagueña | Dani Carnero | Restaurant in Malaga”. Yes, these are two different restaurants in the heart of Malaga’s vivacious center, and I sampled one of them. The long one. It was so good, I just had to come back the next day. Well, sort of…

Malaga’s center will make you cancel all museums, castles, cathedral, anything involved walking uphill, and beach plans. Especially if this is your last leg of a long trip. Its a maze of cuteness. The architecture, the shops, the scene, the art, the fashion, will make you want to walk and rewalk the same streets just in case you missed something. Exploring other neighborhoods like Soho was interesting but felt like a waste of time for us tourists. Note to the Urban planners of the world: Unless you have a street named Houston, stop calling your neighborhoods Soho and Noho. Its getting old, and silly.

La Cosmopolita could not have been in a more touristy area. Its entirely surrounded by Tapas Bars and all sorts of other food options. For the casual diners who dont necessarily need to have the best Ajoblanco in the city, but just want to sit down somewhere and people watch, there are options galore. But for the rest of us freaks who derive much of the pleasure from months of research, you want to check out La Cosmopolita, and its Michelin approved sisters. While not every dish worked, the ones that did more than made up for it.

Lets start with the one clear dud. Crab omelette. Reviewers made this a must get, and since I love crab and everything egg, I just had to sample it. But it just didnt work for us, especially while smothered with that crab sauce. The profile flavors of fishy seafood and eggs in general should not be combined, unless you posses the creativity to make it work.

Moving on to the hits. Mollete de Atún, one of their specialties is like the best raw tuna sandwich you’ll ever find. Mollete translates to a muffin (like an English Muffin I suppose), but its actually IGP protected buns from Antequera. Its a glorious, well balanced combination. Another hit, perhaps the big one came in the form of steak tartare. Pure joy with every morsel. I dont recall eating tartare this good even in Paris recently.

The Tuna, Cadiz style, comes like a stew with onions was serviceable. Not something I’d order again, but I do like this style which we enjoyed numerous times on this trip. Payoya cheesecake to finish off was sensational. One of the better cheesecakes of the trip (we had quite a bit). Love that funk from the Payoya goat cheese. Didnt try more, since some of the us got sick and stayed in the hotel room. So it was an impromptu date between Mrs Z and I on our first evening in Malaga.

But that’s not the end of the story. This was by far our favorite staff of the trip. Not due to their over the top professionalism, but goofiness. From the waiter that decided to grab my phone to take a better picture (he didnt), to the British woman, and the chubby jokester who brings the Panna Cotta to the table next to us while shaking it to show how it jiggles, its the type of dysfunctional family you want every restaurant to have. By the end of all this (span of two days) the chubby waiter hugged me more than Mrs Z hugged me all year. TMI? Not really.

Why did I go there again the next day you may be asking. Not to eat. When Mr Chubby (we were having so much fun that we forgot to formally introduce each other) learned where I was from, he replied “Oh, our chef is from NYC. He used to own a restaurant called Da Andrea”, 😲😲😲. “but he’s not here today. Come back tomorrow”. If you’ve been following me for a long time, you’d know that Da Andrea used to be my favorite restaurant in NYC years ago. I spent birthdays there, among other functions. I was introduced to proper Italian food, and even some of my favorite wine at Da Andrea. But I never really knew the owners, who apparently sold Da Andrea not too long ago. Needless to say coming back the next day and conversing with the man, the legend was a trip highlight.

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This is Alhambra

Posted on May 7, 2024 by Ziggy

The second most visited site in Spain after La Sagrada Familia is a bucket list item you didnt know you have. It’s the first thing you have to book when planning your Andalucia trip, and it’s the main reason visitors flock to Granada. When we visited in mid April, it was sold out through May according to our trusted guide Asier Garmendia.

No pictures, videos, stories, will properly prepare you for the Alhambra. You will mostly see pictures of what looks like a fortress from a distance. But what you’ll find inside is an entire city dating back to medieval Islam. The only such preserved city in the world that survived 800 years of earthquakes. Constructed by multiple generations of Sultans (Nasrid Dynasty) between 1238 and 1492, its the last Muslim stronghold to rule Spain.

Its essentially a combination of Moorish fortresses, palaces, courtyards, and gardens + one palace by a Spanish ruler, Emperor Charles V, for good measure. It’s something straight out of Game of Thrones. Although unlike other palaces and castles in the area (Seville’s Alcázar, Castillo Almodovar del Rio), Alhambra wasn’t featured in GOT. Other than some documentaries, Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, and some old movies nothing was filmed here. Getting a permit must be pretty tough these days. It took a small miracle for GOT to get the OK from the Alcázar.

Allow 3-4 hours to see it so bring your favorite Granola bars from home, and/or those oily salty almonds you’ll see in markets and stores. It’s one site best appreciated with a guide, and Asier is your man. He will take care of the tickets, and he knows this complex inside out, besides possessing a wealth of information. You’ll see how math, poetry, water and time play such key roles with the architecture. You’ll hear stories that would make Telenovela producers take notes.

The gardens of Generalife alone are worth the price of admission. Ever heard of the Julio Iglesias Rose? You can find it here. Any Washington Irving fans here? I didnt think so. He was inspired to write Tales of the Alhambra while living inside it. People live inside Alhambra even today. Remarkable considering the 6000 guests who come here every day.

Simply put this place is something else. Unlike anything we’ve ever seen. It makes you wish you were a better photographer, or in my case, a photographer. Add it to the top half of the mental list. Somewhere between Český Krumlov and Buenos Aires.

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Blanca Paloma {Seville} – Game of Prawns

Posted on May 3, 2024 by Ziggy

Once you cross the bridge into the colorful Triana neighborhood in Seville, you will find yourself glaring at the scene of Calle San Jacinto, before joining the scene. Close the street to car and horse traffic and you get a party. Yes, in Seville you need to also keep in mind horses, especially during the April Feria. That means declaring a designated horse poop spotter that leads the pack and warns the rest of the group. Preferably the one that had the least Tinto de Veranos for lunch. It’s V E R A N O! If you are Italophiles like us, you will struggle with the name big time.

Once you reach the end of the pedestrian area, continue walking one more block. I know, I know, youve already seen three churches today, a Game of Thrones site (Alcázar), walked 15 miles, and want to settle at one of the inviting joints on the Calle for another Tinto de Varena. But keep going. Deliciousness awaits.

Blanca Paloma, the restaurant, not the singer, is a Triana institution. Its the only restaurant I encountered in Seville that takes reservations that I couldn’t make. Even my hotel, the excellent El Rey Moro had difficulties getting someone to pick up the phone. But dont despair. Most just show up. And if you show up when they open for lunch or dinner, you can snag a table inside or out.

We were the first team to arrive (Amazing Race fans here) prior to opening. BTW, you can pretty much forget what Google tells you about opening times in Spain. Its more like a probability. Some places can open at that time, but with the kitchen actually opening 30-60 minutes later. Meaning you can just hang out and have a Tinto de Verona. But Blanca Paloma and its kitchen opened as promised at the American lunch time of 12:30. The locals eat lunch after 2pm, and dinner after 9pm. We gave it a shot, but gave up on day one.

Prior to my visit, I got a sense that anything and everything shrimp is the name of the game at BP, and I’m more convinced now. But I’m guessing you cant have many wrongs here no matter what you get. Eggplant stuffed with shrimp – Si please. Probably our top eggplant dish in eggplant loving Andalucia. Mini garlic shrimp burgers, immensely flavorful. And then you get the phenomenal Shrimp a la Plancha that I saw many eating all over Calle San Jacinto.

Crab Croquetas was yet more awesomeness. Unlike other Croquetas we had, there was flavor and texture here. One of the surprising items we’ve seen on various menus is Canelones, like the Spanish Cannelloni. This one stuffed with Iberian pork and Roquefort sauce. Exquisite stuff. The only thing that was average here was the cakes. They ran out of Torrija before opening somehow! Maybe one of the cooks had a tough breakup last night. South of Spain rule of thumb: Order Torrija and/or cheesecake for dessert everywhere.

Blanca Paloma also served one of the better Vermouths of the trip. After trying the Spanish stand-alone Vermouth at Txikito in NYC, I was worried that its not really for me, but throughout my trip I couldnt get enough of it.

After the meal, make sure to check out the market and some of the tile stores around the area. Like Ceramica Triana, and Ceramica Santas Justa y Rufina where the friendly owner speaks excellent English, and lets you break things!

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Ronda – The Accidental Romantic Tourist

Posted on April 30, 2024 by Ziggy

Once in a blue moon you come across the perfect tourist town. It was in Segovia in 2019 where I realized what it takes to be one. Small, unique, food destination, plenty to do and see for tourists, and one you want to experience in the morning and evening where the tour buses leave. Ronda – check, check, check and then some.

The only thing missing that Segovia had was a local vibe in the evening, but that’s because of the clear separation between the touristy historic center and the rest of the city where the locals hang out. For us tourists, we couldnt get enough of the center including its tremendous food offerings. While most people come here on a day trip or stay overnight, by the time you finish reading this post hopefully you’ll see why it’s a mistake. You need at least two nights.

Ronda is the type of place you want to take your spouse on a surprise romantic getaway. Except unless you live in the south of Spain, its fairly hard to do. When we visited the excellent Ramos-Paul winery nearby, we met a couple from Jerez where the guy did exactly that to his wife and one month old daughter. A surprise day trip to Ronda on her birthday. The daughter wasnt amused.

Right near Puente Nuevo, the “new” bridge that took 34 years to built in 1793 after the previous bridge collapsed and killed 50, there’s this interesting mural. It shows the town’s unique landscape and quotes from various romantic travelers that found inspiration in Ronda. That did not include more recent names like Ernest Hemingway and Orson Wells who spent significant time here, and even more recently Michelle Obama. Ronda is so tiny and relatively unknown, when someone like Michelle Obama visits, people still talk about it 15 years later.

Exploring the majestic Puente Nuevo alone, from the top and bottom requires a few good hours. They recently reopened a path that leads closer to the bridge where you can get a close look at the chasm that divides the city. You need to wear a helmet for this one. The first trip where we had to wear a helmet, not once but twice. The other one being an hour away at the eyepopping Caminito del Rey hike. More on that on another day.

But the main reason to stay an extra night or three is the area, Serrania de Ronda, which rivals Tuscany as perhaps the most beautiful region we’ve ever seen. Just north of Ronda you got a wine region that produces surprisingly robust reds, judging from our Ramos-Paul visit. The wines are still affordable because this is not Rioja.

10 minutes out you have the Reservatauro Ronda, a horse and bull farm where you can learn about the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. Further out you have another majestic town, Setenil de las Bodegas where houses are built into the cliffs. And then you have other whitewashed towns like beautiful Olvera not far away. I already mentioned the infamous Caminito an hour away. Plenty to do and see here if you have a few days. Ronda complements the large city filled Andalucian itinerary very well.

Make sure to spend quality time in both the center and old town, the two distinct neighborhoods on both sides of the bridge. Dont dwell too much on individual attractions as every other blog tells you. See the bullring if you must, the second oldest in Spain after Seville, and the oldest constructed entirely of stone. You can also get a good view of it from the rooftop of Hotel Catalonia. Stay at the Parador if you must for the incredible views and to finally say “I stayed at the Parador in Ronda” at cocktail parties. Though between us friends, not the most comfortable hotel.

Dining in Ronda requires its own dedicated blog posts. Pound for pound Ronda may be the top food destination in Andalucía for its size. Between the amazing Casa Mateos, the legendary El Lechuguita, and Benito Gómez’s Tragatá, there’s your 2-3 days of heavenly eating right there. We managed two of the three. Every conversation about food with a local results in “Oh you have to go to Tragatá and Casa Mateos”. One even helped us with what to order at the latter. Spoiler alert: Sickest goat cheese salad ever.

Categories: Spain | Tags: , , , , | 3 Comments

Tasty Tours – Eating With Ryan

Posted on February 27, 2024 by Ziggy

Yep, I took a food tour in NYC. Something I havent done since I took a relatively mediocre Free Tour by Foot tour of East Village. Free Tours and food dont really go well together in NYC, even if free means very cheap ($1-$2 each item). But generally for me, taking a food tour in NYC always felt like an experienced auto mechanic getting oil change lessons. Probably boring, but I may learn a thing or two.

Well, I actually did. I learned a few things about Washington Square Park, and even Taylor Swift, among other tidbits I never picked up in the almost 40 years of living here. For a while I thought a Swifty was a cleaning supply. I just figured it would be something fun to do with my daughter. Playing tourist in my own town, and someone else feeding me for a change, I must say it felt good. The element of surprise, coupled with some of the tastiest snacks in the area, and a fun guide to boot.

Tasty Tours is a newish tour operator started by a young enthusiastic fella named Ryan. As with any food tour, you have to have the right personality for it. The reviews suggested it, and I’m happy to confirm. Ryan is easy going, funny, and just the right guy you want to spend a few hours with. As a tour guide you feel obligated to share your knowledge, often ignoring the risk of overdoing it. But Ryan got the formula right. Just the right amount of history, trivia, customer engagement, and even the proper amount of food.

Although Ryan doesnt mind me sharing the food we ate, I rather not. I think the lack of any preconceptions and the element of surprise is part of the fun. But if you want to know, you can easily find that info on his site. Its a nice mix of classics that you may already know about and some less known spots. I can tell you that out of the 6 stops, only one of them I probably wont return, and at least two of them I’d like to return very soon. I’m sharing one food picture, but I wont tell what it is. You’ll need to guess 😉

One thing I miss the most from my guide days is that moment right after a good tour. I felt that after this one. As I told Ryan, its unfortunately the bad ones that will stick out and become most memorable, as you are also in the mercy of the people you meet. Food tours is an experience at its core. Dont take one strictly because someone you know told you to take one. Take one if you want to meet a local and other travelers, learn a thing or two about the area you are visiting, and eat tasty food in the process. Come to think of it, who wouldn’t want that.

https://www.tastytoursnyc.com

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Anguilla – How to Gain 7 Pounds in 7 Days

Posted on February 22, 2024 by Ziggy

One of my most popular posts and a lot of fun to update over the years was a similar title for TCI, where I offer a 7 day eating itinerary. Granted I havent updated that in over 5 years (blame Anguilla). Although this is the same concept, I will focus on my favorite 4 dinners and 4 lunches and will give suggestions on the rest of the week. While my three visits so far dont give me the same amount of expertise as the over 20 in TCI, I think I got a pretty good handle on things in tiny and delicious Anguilla.

7 Lunches

Sunshine Shack – A no brainer and not exactly a secret. It is a lot more popular these days than on our first visit. Still, this is a shack in its core, not a full blown restaurant. You’ll just need to wait a bit for the food. Get the frozen BBC (Banana Baileys Coconut) to start which will fill you up like an appetizer, to make that wait a lot less painful, and fun). There are only a few items on the menu. I prefer the chicken and ribs combo over the expensive lobster.

Blanchards Beach Shack – Another popular shack, but very different than SS. This is more of a full crew cross between a Caribbean shack and American fast casual. You got multiple windows for orders, pickup and drinks. Even in slower months expect lines to order and waits for the food (you get a buzzer). But its worth it for the crafty salads and sandwiches. Try the Jerk Burger.

Johnno’s – This pick might surprise the hardcore Anguilla fans. By day, a very low key, rustic joint, overlooking beautiful Sandy Ground. By night, well, I wouldnt know. I’ve only been during the day, and each time I got the quintessential Anguillan treatment, including fresh, well cooked food. And a strong rum punch to boot. Sunday is funday with live music. In a way Johnno’s reminds me of Flamingo’s in TCI. Try the steamed snapper with Fungi, and/or Shrimpi Scampi, as long as you forget everything you know about shrimp scampi.

Vincy – I’ve already written about Vincy. The restaurant is one of the newer kids on the block, but the talented Vincy the owner has been around. The view overlooking Sandy Ground adds to the atmosphere at lunch, and the food is not too shabby. Vincy keeps things relatively simple with the ingredient driven menu. Try the shrimp tacos and grilled snapper with lemon sauce.

The rest

Falcon Nest – Another casual shack/bar with a full menu of goodies. Try the seafood pasta

Trattoria Tramonto – Good place to hang out on a gorgeous beach. Try the Vongole

Tasty’s – Solid local cuisine for lunch or dinner. Try the seafood salad

7 Dinners

Jacala – One of my favorite restaurants in the entire Caribbean. Even now, without the Jac half (retired), hospitality and cooking at the highest level. Some like it for lunch, overlooking beautiful Meads Bay, but I think this is the type of meal that should be experienced at night. Its French at its core, utilizing local ingredients with the expertise of a seasoned master (the “Ala” part). Try the tuna tartare, the stupendous chicken, and grilled crayfish.

Hibernia – Another absolute must. You can pretty much copy and paste everything I said about Jacala above, except that its a very different place. A French and Asian mashup pioneer, opened before it even became a thing in Paris (today you can find them in almost every corner). And the museum-like environment and view is a major bonus. While I’m listing it for dinner, I think everyone should try to experience Hibernia for lunch at least once. Try the Foie Gras, smoked fish trio, any of the fish dishes, and homemade rum raisin ice cream

Straw Hat – Although not exactly new to us, its a new addition to the rotation. In fact I think we’ll make it our early first night meal from now on. It has just the right kind of “Welcome to Anguilla” thing going. You got the view of Meads Bay beach, great frozen drinks (BBC!), and expertly cooked food with a clever mix of local and eclectic items. Try the flatbread, goat curry, and snapper.

Blanchards – A 25 year old legend and one of the most popular spots on the island. I admit it took me a few trips to finally try it, as the menu looked a bit too New Yorkish for me. But I get it now. Just like its beach shack, a well-oiled machine by an exceptionally friendly and capable crew. Try the jerk chicken, and do not leave the island without trying the famous Cracked Coconut. Although the Bread pudding isnt too shabby either.

The rest:

Mango’s – Some of the island’s best and freshest seafood

Artisan – Solid Neapolitan pizza

E’s Oven – Popular with locals. Try the Pumpkin soup, goat curry, skip the steak

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Vincy {Anguilla} – Moving Up

Posted on February 7, 2024 by Ziggy

Literally and figuratively. I had a hard time coming up with the next post idea. I should be writing about our excellent meals at Blanchards or Straw Hat. But I want to write about a new discovery where we only had three dishes, and one was a Caesar salad! Hence, not a marathon post, but short, fresh and simple, like the Vincy menu. Well, except maybe the short part.

Chef Vincia “Vincy” Hughes moved her newish restaurant from Sandy Ground to a location towering right above Sandy Ground. Like a factory manager getting a promotion and a new office overlooking the factory. While some of the details of the view are not particularly pleasing, the view as a whole is mesmerizing. If you close one eye you are staring at the Croatian coastline. If you close both, you will eventually fall asleep. Not recommended during lunch at Vincy.

A pleasant roomy patio with a view, with exceptional food and smiles to match. In genuine Anguilla fashion, a staff that exhibits a level of hospitality that I dont even experience in NYC, not alone in other Caribbean islands. What is it about Anguilla? I dont usually pay much attention to service, but this was hard not to notice. People seem to love what they do and genuinely happy to meet you. 

Like many chefs in Anguilla, Vincy’s resume includes some of the top high end resorts on the island. Unlike so many, Vincy opted to showcase her skills the best way she can, at her own pace and place. And unlike so many, she often comes out to say hello. Chefs have a tough job, but that connection makes a difference. And besides it gave me the opportunity to confirm that I ordered correctly despite the sweet aroma of a goat curry she’s been cooking the last hour. The plan of having it at E’s Oven down the road later that day gave me comfort.

That aforementioned Caesar was a solid as they come, and an indication of things to come. The older we get the more we appreciate a good Caesar, and we are getting very close to know how to spell it without looking. The blackened shrimp tacos were superb. Wonderful warm tortillas, slaw, tomato. Loaded, but nothing overpowering the perfectly cooked shrimp.

But the one dish that persuaded me to leave my lounge chair and drive the 15 minutes (the equivalent of 90 in NYC) was a grilled whole snapper with lemon butter. It did not disappoint. She keeps it fresh and simple, and if the ingredients are not top notch she aint serving it. Adding the dish and the place to our growing Anguilla rotation. Although the rest of the menu reads like the Anguilla food hall of fame, and I would like to try every single dish. 

Did I mention the view? That’s why I recommend a nice longish lunch, over dinner. And if the furniture look familiar, some of it is from this place. This is the beginning of a beautiful, hopefully long relationship.  

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This is Rendezvous Bay (Part Deux)

Posted on January 27, 2024 by Ziggy

You know what they say. Once you are able to spell it without googling, you are halfway there. I’m not exactly sure who says it, or know what it means (sounds more like a Yogi Berra quote). But when it comes to certain places with difficult spellings, it rings true. It took me years to finally learn how to spell Rendezvous Bay without looking. Roughly 5 years for “Rendezvous”, and a couple of months for “Bay”. I’m now officially a fan.

Coincidentally I almost misspelled “Deux” here. For a blog with the tagline “Dining Well, Spelling Pourly”, maybe I should let some of these spellings stay. But I cant screw up the title for search purposes. 

Part Deux was more of the same. Same hotel (Rendezvous Bay Hotel), same beach, same beach shacks, same healing powers. The healing powers were especially important as both stays were right after hardships. We’ve been around, especially in this part of the world. I cant think of another beach or place that can better improve your spiritual health. We needed this. 

For city slickers, it can be a religious experience. Until you turn right one day and see a 60+ male wearing a Borat style black thong, and you are stuck with this image for half of the trip. Thats the price you pay when dealing with empty beaches. You are in the mercy of those interrupting the tranquility. Would it kill him to lie on his back just once. On second thought, strike that. Its not a prettier picture.

When the Sunshine Shack is open, you’ll find roughly 90% of the people on this beach there. It evolved from a simple beach shack to one of the most popular simple beach shacks in the Caribbean. Its the Caribbean version of the original Shake Shack. Waits for food can be painful at times so bring your patience, and order a frozen BBC (Baily’s, Banana, Coconut) to fill you up while you wait. Stick to chicken and ribs, as the lobster isnt the best value

There’s not a whole lot I can write that I didnt before, so I’ll just leave you with the original post. More food for thought to come. Just like with the previous installment, its weird to write about some beach at these crazy times. But we can all use a distraction sometimes.

This is Rendezvous Bay – Part 1

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