Posts Tagged With: Travel

Oregon/California Coast Highlights

Posted on September 7, 2024 by Ziggy

This is the coast portion of a recent Portland-Napa-LA road trip. While we’ve done the SF-LA coast multiple times, the northern parts was a first for us. Good seafood, seals, scenic drives, eyepopping sea stacks, and plenty of redwoods. Here are some of the highlights (food included).

Cannon Beach – Our first stop. Pleasant town to walk around with shops and galleries galore. Good Fish and Chips at Ecola Seafood Restaurant. Nice views from Ecola Point Viewpoint in Ecola State Park. The jaw-dropping Haystack Rock is the perfect welcome to Oregon coast.

Tillamook Creamery – Not exactly a secret, and not exactly the best ice cream I ever had, but this is such a neat place. A factory allowing you to see much of the process cost free. A general store where you can stack up on some gourmet(ish) snacks for the drive. And an artisanal ice cream shop that you can enjoy outside or in. A must stop IMO.

Cape Kiwanda Sand Dune – For city slickers like us, walking to the top of the dune and running down like children was quite the experience.

Clearwater Restaurant (Newport) – Probably our best meal on the coast. Surprisingly tasty Asian inspired dishes like Orange Cauliflower and crab and garlic noodles. A dock full of seals in the back is reason enough to come. It was like watching an episode of Planet Earth

Darlingtonia State Natural Site – A small area where you can see carnivorous cobra lilies. This is one of those perfect pit stops on a drive like that. A short walk to see something so unique and different than anything else on the coast. And its free.

Note, I’m listing highlights only, not necessarily the biggest and most popular attractions like Sea Lion Caves, Heceta Head Lighthouse, and others that werent as memorable.

Nosh Eatery (Florence) – Pleasant surprise considering I was aiming for Mari’s Kitchen next door which was closed. Very solid juicy ribs and salmon bowl. I was intrigued by Mari’s Kitchen Romanian leaning menu, but Nosh did the job.

Shore Acres State Park – I almost wrote the gardens at Shore Acres but the entire park is truly stunning. Its a little out of the way but very much worth it. To see the gardens, head to the gift shop.

Endicott Gardens Bed & Breakfast – If I could only give one tip. We’ve come to realize that we are hotel people, but I still like to mix in experiences such as this in between Holiday Inns. Its such a special and unique place. A super friendly couple that used to own a restaurant in Colorado manages this 4(?) room property. The garden alone worth the price of admission. And to top it all, an outstanding three course garden to table Breakfast. Fantastic value.

Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor – One of the more dramatic parts of the Oregon coast. Highlights are Arch Rock State Park, and “Natural Bridges”

SeaQuake Brewing (Crescent City) – Solid pizza and beer. For pizza snubs from NYC this was as good as I was hoping for a place like this. The rest of the menu is promising as well

Trees of Mystery – A Redwoods theme park with a giant Paul Bunyan at the entrance. For Fargo fans, this is your chance!

Simpson-Reed Trailhead (Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) – The perfect hike (about a mile) after a longish drive, and a good introduction to the Redwoods.

Avenue of the Giants – How often do you get to drive on a 30 mile road surrounded by Redwoods. It runs parallel to the 101 with multiple exit points when you have enough Forest Bathing

Garden at Shore Acres
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Caminito del Rey – The Safest Scariest Hike in the World

Posted on August 30, 2024 by Ziggy

If you are even remotely into hiking, add this to the bucket list. 7.7 km, half of which on an elevated narrow boardwalk secured to the side of a cliff on top of a spectacular gorge. Once nicknamed the most dangerous hike in the world, its not nearly as scary today. After a record 5 people killed in 2000, officials finally decided to do something and took 15 years to build a new path. Imagine graduating with a civil engineering degree and getting hit with this assignment.

Considering the commercial aspect of this attraction and the way its organized, the hike as expected felt completely safe. The spectacular vistas on every turn help forget that a few wooden boards are between you and stuff on the rocks (sorry). The only time you feel like you had enough is during the last 30 minutes. A very boring walk to the bus that didnt seem to end.

Although outside of most tourist radar in Andalucia, you need to reserve this months in advance. Most likely, like us, you’ll reserve a timed walk with a guide (extra) as the DIY tickets are few and sell out quickly. At some point during the tour you may opt out and walk at your own pace. The guide will fill you in with the history and local flora and fauna. At some point our guide pointed to a bird flying above us and asked us what it was, and all I could think was partridge, after the amazing dinner the night before. Partridge was incorrect she said.

The one thing most blogs dont tell you is that it takes 45-60 minutes to get from the parking lot to the starting point, which involves a shuttle and a hike in itself. Thats why the small print will suggest to arrive an hour early. But I dont think they turn anyone away if a little late, due to the difficulties involved to get there. Although the hike is only two hours or so, allow at least half a day for this.

Unless you have an incredible amount of energy, do Caminito del Rey in the morning. 10:30 was ideal for us but I would go even earlier. Allow an hour to get there from Ronda, Malaga or elsewhere. Its a good stop when moving from one base to another. There is some food huts at the end, but I would avoid at least the milkshakes since everyone who had them in our group got sick. Go!

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This is Jaén (and MangasVerdes)

Posted on August 13, 2024 by Ziggy

Sometimes it starts with a photo. I remember late in the planning stages, seeing a photo of the Jaén cathedral from the top of town and before you know it, I’m researching olive oil producers, area castles, and the exact location of that shot. I’ll save you the headache: Mirador “El Balcón del Santo Reino” on Google Maps.

The Mirador and Castillo de Santa Catalina, the 8th century castle that King Ferdinand III of Castile captured in 1246 are reasons enough to make Jaén a worthy stop between Cordoba and Granada. According to legend, after defeating the Nasrid dynasty stronghold, Ferdinand climbed to the castle and drove his sword to the ground. Probably not a good idea, but I’m sure he had more swords. Roughly 250 meters from the castle, that spot is now marked with a cross, overlooking Jaén and the rest of the countryside.

In the few hours of visiting Jaén we saw both a thriving town (before lunch), and a sleepy one (after lunch). The best example of that was right in front of the cathedral. We are well outside the tourist route. Another surprise was a series of murals in the southwest edge of the town. A lot of cats (including real ones) and stairs.

But the largest bonus was discovering a thriving food scene. Jaén, with just about 100,000 population boasts four Michelin star establishments, including the famed Baga. A mini San Sebastian if you will. Being in the middle of perhaps the most important olive oil region in the country may have something to do with it.

I dont recall exactly why I chose MangasVerdes over Baga. Perhaps I wanted something simpler, or Baga’s latest reviews didnt do it for me. I question my decisions more than anyone else. And when we showed up at an empty restaurant at 1:30pm, our reservation time, I questioned some more. I was confused why they were turning people away. But by 2:30 the place was packed to the brim with locals.

A young staff without much English did a masterful job managing the house. I may never understand how they do it with half the staff of American restaurants of the same size. The food was traditional with a fun Asian twist that actually works. More often than not, it doesnt. A top 5 of the trip meal, maybe even top 3. Considering the doozies we had, its saying something.

Expertly prepared Duck confit spring rolls that came Ssam style. Silky smooth, flavor packed Foie Gras. Phenomenal, explosive Chicken Croquetitas that came like a dozen eggs with curry sauce. Probably my favorite dish. Octopus on a bed of potato cream, as good as it was prob my least favorite. More excellence from the Oxtail ravioli. Panna Cotta and choc cake were the exclamation point.

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Four Gems in Seville

Posted on August 6, 2024 by Ziggy

I was about to write about one highlight in particular but I feel generous today. I wont go into details other than on some of the regional specialties that I’ll mention but Andalucia has a rich, vibrant, and very different food scene than the rest of Spain. And seeing even the more refined places keep traditions alive is much appreciated, especially for a tourist. We had all sorts of food experiences in Seville, but these are the four that dazzled our taste buds in ways I can not describe (for the Top Secret fans).

Bar Casa Morales

One of those time warp experiences. Opened in 1850 and still owned by the same family. You feel the history as soon as you walk in. Another entrance to the back room around the corner (that we discovered by accident). Try to arrive when they open if you dont want to wait, and dont be intimidated if you dont speak the language. Try the quality cold cuts, Tortilla, Galician Octopus, but something tells me they can do no wrong. C. García de Vinuesa, 11

Bodeguita Romero

Come for the famous Pringa and stay for the rest of the menu. This is another local legend. Best to arrive when they open or risk long lines. But whatever you do, dont give up on it. While the Pringa (Pork Sandwich) was indeed outstanding, we liked everything else just as much. The Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) is addictive. Try the expertly cooked whole grilled squid. And the immensely flavorful and tender Carillera (pork cheek). C. Harinas, 10

Blanca Paloma

I’ve already written about this jewel in the colorful Triana neighborhood. Its hard but not impossible to reserve but best to show up on the early side (sense a theme here?). For us Americans eating before the locals start flocking in (2pm for lunch, 9pm for dinner) didnt require a great effort. Try anything and everything shrimp including eggplant stuffed with shrimp, mini garlic shrimp burgers, and shrimp a la Plancha. C. San Jacinto, 49

Amara

Saving the best for last. Our top meal in Seville also happened to be the most expensive. Though a €48 tasting menu was still tremendous value for us New Yorkers. Chef/owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. Tiny Amara is a beautiful homage to the Basque heritage with much emphasis to local traditions.

Great bread is often an indication of things to come and that’s no different here. You may start the journey with a complex Ajoblanco (cold soup) made with coconut, cashews, garlic, pineapple, and other goodies. Then maybe a lovely Croqueta with squid and squid ink, followed by Artichoke in Jerez butter and Iberian Chicharron. Then maybe a 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, truffles, a Basque classic. If there’s a large rice dish with pork (top) as a special, you may want to pounce on it too. C. Zaragoza, 18

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Cabaret L’enfer {Montreal} – Enjoy the Science

Posted on July 24, 2024 by Ziggy

Raise you hand if you think I take notes while dining out. I dont, with very rare exceptions. I dont even spend much time taking all the necessary pictures. I stopped years ago after annoying too many family and friends. It’s worth noting that a big reason for this blog is to simply keep track of where and what I eat, as opposed to whether I had a Ratatouille moment when I took my first bite of that Pate en Croute.

With that said, I did take notes at the exceptional Cabaret L’enfer. Only to delete the note by mistake yesterday. Turns out Yahoo linked Notes cant be recovered?!? So you have to deal with my memories yet again, even though it feels like this very recent meal was ages ago. After all, if its not memorable, maybe its not worth writing about.

Not only it was memorable, but this was a sound contender for meal of the year, challenging places like Foxface Natural, Ronda’s Casa Mateos, and Anguilla’s Hibernia just off top of my head. Very rarely, everything clicks as it did at Cabaret L’enfer. Even the 80’s/New Wave playlist felt like specifically engineered for us. I remember thinking toward the end that the only thing missing from this experience was Depeche Mode, and 10 minutes later, Bam, we Enjoy the Silence. The GOAT!

Music seems very important to Montreal born chef/owner Massimo Piedimonte who curates his own playlists in addition to curating a masterpiece set menu. We had a direct view of his dance moves by the charcoal grill where he’s in charge. Guidance under names you may have heard like Daniel Boulud and René Redzepi at NOMA taught him not only how to flat out cook, but how to make a place unique and your own. Very rarely you feel like you are at someone’s extended living room at a place of this caliber.

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The set menu is a beautiful multicultural marriage, especially of the chef’s Italian and French heritage. And at $120 its decent value, especially for New Yorkers. They do try to push their wine, especially natural. Wine pairing starts at $100, but there are some interesting selections by the glass.

Homemade flatbread with Stracciatella and fresh snappy peas was just the kind of start you wished. And if the perfectly grilled Tuna Belly Tostada didnt get the juices going, three lobster filled Cappellacci surely did. Then comes a superb grilled lobster (+$20) that was much appreciated but not necessary. Its an 8 course feast full of highlights without the lobster.

The first of the second half highlights was a sliced scallop with Fava beans, and a Vermouth based sauce. This is one of those moments where you hesitate to drink your wine in order to let the taste buds keep dancing. After a dish like this, asparagus with wild Nettles almost feels like a cleanser. Probably the least favorite dish, but one that makes sense in a menu as such.

The last savory item was thee highlight. An outstanding well marbled Entrecote with bits of artichoke and Bordelaise sauce. As my neighbor proclaimed “I’m full but I can eat a few more of those”. I dont recall the last time I ate a finer piece of beef. When you are on such a culinary high, dessert can easily get lost in the shuffle. No exception here. More of a testament to the rest of the triumph. Go!

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Quebec City – The Good, the Great, and the Ugly

Posted on July 10, 2024 by Ziggy
Duck Ham at Buvette Scott

After spending weeks trying to understand Quebec City’s cuisine, you’d think after spending some time in the city, the answer would be clear. Strawberries, cheese, Poutine, Montreal Smoked Meat? When you start mentioning items from other cities, maybe the list isnt that long to begin with, or cloudy at best. It seems that most items listed are of the traditional variety, and are offered in very few places. La Buche, one of those “Sugar Shacks” is one of those, but it was consistently mobbed during our stay.

Quebec City is not known for anything specific that makes people travel over 500 miles as we just did. But we did find a seemingly up and coming food scene led by a plethora of ingredient driven, farm to tables that work with whatever is in season. So you may find asparagus, morels, strawberries, etc following you from menu to menu. And things get increasingly more interesting once you leave the old town…

The Good

Buvette Scott – An intimate, mostly delicious delight with the kind of service that feels like hanging out with old friends. A special of lightly fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with mascarpone and smoked trout. The signature duck ham is like eating duck butter. Mezzelune pasta stuffed with ricotta and topped with lobster, scrumptious and pleasing to the eye. Morels stuffed with chicken wing meat with aromatic veal and wine broth, and last asparagus of the season was the best of show.

Chez Boulay-bistro boréal – A classic in the old town. A comfortable room with a working A/C turned out to be a surprise luxury in QC. Lunch specials come with soup (excellent leek and potato on this day) or salad (nice seed action). Cavatelli with broccoli and local cheese was light and perfectly executed. Lean, flaky beef cheeks with a complimentary ratatouille is a signature here and I can see why. After the meal, exit through the other end via the hotel (that’s also where the bathrooms are) and check out the Bouley sweets store. Talk about eye popping stuff.

Le Clocher Penché – Choosing between an uncomfortably warm room and a room with no ambiance was not a good start. The appetizers made up for it more than the mains. Scallops with morels, easily top dish. The sauce is the reason to order the terrific bread. Shell pasta with oyster mushrooms and Pork chop were serviceable.

Chez Mag on Île d’Orléans – If there’s one tip I can give you besides booking the one “great” is circle the entire Île d’Orléans for strawberries, picturesque homes and lobster rolls. These rolls wont win any awards, but eating them with a side of smoked meat poutine in that picnic area is hard to beat. Standing on line and listening to the conversations around you is part of the experience.

Chez Temporel – Quebece City takes their brunches very seriously. The Croque Monsieur may look like something I would make, but did not lack flavor. “Brunch Plate” featuring the Frittata of the day and other goodies did not disappoint.

Boulangerie artisanale Epi’Fanny – Close to a religious experience for croissant lovers. Jambon sandwiches, not quite Le Petite Vendome level, but will make you at least reminisce.

Épicerie J.A. Moisan – The one store you should check out. All sorts of international items displayed in a smart way. We sampled some cheese and ended up with a creamy La Bete a Seguin to enjoy with a baguette.

The Great

Melba – Our top meal in Quebec City and it wasnt even close. Opened last year in the up and coming Saint-Sauveur neighborhood by a mega talented team of cooks. Thankfully the ties to the popular Battuto don’t include reservation difficulties. One of the joys of reserving in Montreal and QC for a New Yorker is that I dont have to spend hours finding a table.

Hors d’oeuvre as the name suggests are snacks here, so I recommend at least three for two. You can even let the waiter pick as we did. Just make sure to get the “Bikini Sandwiches”. Best Grilled cheese sandwich you will ever have, with zucchini and olives and more zucchini slices on top. You may also enjoy the Barbajuans, like skinny fritters stuffed with lamb and spices with homemade babaganoush as a dip, or Deviled eggs with lobster.

Mains arent too shabby either. A delicate lobster poached Halibut with the softest carrots and lobster bisque. As good as that was, it was bested by Guineafowl with potatoes, chard and a killer combination of sauces. The good selection of wine by the glass and the addictive buttery buns sealed it. Flawless to say the least. All considering good value as well.

The Ugly

Au Petit Coin Breton – Uninspiring pricy crepes with egg, ham and cheese. Nothing like a classic Breton Galette. The crepes at Baguette & Chocolat looked more like it. Much of the old town spots are for tourists.

The Prices – I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a city as expensive as NYC outside of the US. Even Montreal seems cheap in comparison. The high tourist to local ration in QC has something to do with it.

The Tipping – Quebec City’s food scene is having a moment, and so is its tipping culture looks like. I’ve been to Canada many times, but I dont recall ever feeling the need to tip like in NYC. With every machine starting at either 15% or 18% and finishing at 25% even for ice cream, tipping less than 20% felt odd.

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Garum 2.1 {Cordoba} – Bistronomics 101

Posted on July 2, 2024 by Ziggy

When you follow a dud with a triumph the next night, it feels particularly gratifying. Two duds in a row on vacation is hard to stomach, like watching a US presidential debate these days. Even an average meal after a dud feels incomplete. You need an epic to compensate, and that’s what we got at Garum 2.1, along with one of those rare breed waiters.

Talking about presidential debates, just like Bidenomics, Bistronomics is all about empowering from within. In Andalucia it means taking traditional dishes like Salmorejo, Rabo de toro to the next level. There’s a menu display outside of Garum (or was it inside) that upon closer inspection is actually a trophy display. A list of Garum 2.1 Tapas including traditional that received awards. As a tourist, you appreciate places that take tradition and culture seriously. You feel that throughout the the south of Spain especially thanks to places like Garum 2.1.

I chose Garum over the now closed Paco Morales bar. After taking a close look at the latter I was just not feeling it. One reason I chose Garum was the numerous mentions of one particular waiter which we happen to get as well. In Malaga we encountered our favorite overall staff of the trip, but this may be the most brilliant waiter. Humble, super polite, accommodating, and really just another level of service. Truly a rare breed.

As tourists we are hardly Salmorejo (sort of a cold tomato soup) experts, but this was pretty darn good. As with most Salmorejos we had, the flavor is fairly strong (a good thing), and overpowering most of the “toppings” (still a good thing). So they look and feel more or less like beauty contests if anything. But the flavors were prevalent with this one.

If you never had a proper Spanish Tortilla this is a good place to try it. Just the right texture. Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée was the star of show. The creamy potato was an unexpected Andalucian specialty we encountered throughout the region. The Rabo de Toro (oxtail) was something we couldnt get enough during this trip, and this award winning version might have been the best one.

A new dish on the menu was Artichoke with seafood and a superb seafood bisque I could drink like a smoothie. A rule of thumb in Andalucia is Torrija (like a bread pudding) and/or cheesecake for dessert wherever available. Here you get another great Torrija and a fine cheese mousse with fruits. Washing it all down with another excellent Verdejo. Go!

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Malaga (and Area) Random

Posted on June 25, 2024 by Ziggy

I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.

Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.

Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.

Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.

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Seville’s Feria is Bucket List Worthy

Posted on June 8, 2024 by Ziggy

So glad I didnt listen to the naysayers. Skip it, too crowded, it attracts like a bazillion thousand people, horse poop everywhere, you wont be able to get reservations. The last one almost made me reconsider and change plans. While I obviously cant compare this week to any other time, other than assume there are less people, the crowds for this New Yorker were not nearly as bad. Here’s everything you need to know about the Feria. Well, almost everything.

First, add it to the mental bucket list. A year ago I never even heard of this. But I feel like everyone should experience it at least once. Simply put, its one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. Its Easter in New Orleans on crack. A week of celebrations, colors, horses, and a whole lot of beautiful people. Hence, we felt like we belonged.

The basics. Its a full week, normally in April (could be May in 2025). Google for the exact dates. Its held in an area well outside the city center so you can control how much Feria you want to have. At the Feria its essentially a huge scene, blocks and blocks of people celebrating inside their private “Casetas”, striped tents, where they drink and dance for much of the afternoon and night. Not to mention the parade of horses and carriages that brings the participants. And with everyone dressed in flamenco attire you essentially get the world’s largest free fashion show.

Do Plaza de España, preferably on Sunday afternoon. Even if you dont set foot at the Feria, just being in Seville that week is pretty cool. With so many well dressed participants flocking to Plaza de España, especially on the weekend after the fair start, its like being in a movie set

As for how to get there. Buses frequently run just outside Prado de San Sebastián and back. I believe there are other bus options but this is the most convenient in the center as of this writing. Its not free, but quite cheap at around a one euro p/p

Dont go in the morning. In Spain the later the better. In the early morning you’ll see Feria participants arriving back from a night full of partying. There’s not a whole lot going on there prior to noon, except cleanup.

There are public Casetas. But they are, well, public, so not nearly as attractive as the private ones. But you at least you can get a drink, and maybe some atmosphere. Try Rebujito, the official drink of the fair invented in 1985. You pay for a small pitcher.

As fun as it is you may suffer from sensory overload after a couple of hours. Go at around 5-6, before dinner. But you’ll see much of the city transform and people dressed up everywhere. One of many reasons to visit Andalucía.

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A Perfect Day of Eating in Montreal

Posted on May 31, 2024 by Ziggy

A long weekend in Montreal, after an 8 year hiatus produced a tail of two eating days, and one painful reminder. Never trust hotel employees for food recommendations. Locals, especially in large cosmopolitan cities, may not be familiar with their own food scene. But they are trained to answer this question based on various factors such as “other tourists like it”, and will often sound very convincing. After a mediocre first day where I was winging it with an assist from an overzealous employee, the planned second day produced much better results. While this day is not exactly how my day went, its mostly based on it.

Start the day with a Montreal bagel from one of the institutions in Mile End, St-Viateur or Fairmont. Just try to forget everything you know about NYC bagels and keep an open mind. Its really nothing like it, and comparing them is like comparing apples to toasters. They may seem bland and sweet, but you might appreciate the light and airy texture. Try the sesame with cream cheese. Do you know what they call cream cheese in Spain? Philadelphia! Just the kind of unrelated tidbit you’ll only see on EWZ, but very useful in cocktail parties.

The one time I tried both of the institutions, I got luckier with St-Viateur over Fairmont as the former was right out of the oven. But you cant go wrong here. The one big positive about this bagel is that you dont need to spread a pound of cream cheese to be able to taste the cream cheese. Conveniently right next to Fairmont, you can get good coffee at Caffé Grazie-Mille where regulars enjoy telling the owner about the daily pictures they get from ex girlfriends.

The cool thing about these bagels is that you dont need a nap now and you can resume eating within hours. And what’s a better place to do it than Jean Talon Market. This is just a spectacular market, especially in August when its corn season. Peaches and Cream corn will be the sweetest corn you will ever have. But you will encounter all sorts of worldly artisanal items throughout the market. And if you never had ground cherries before, this is a good time to try if in season.

It’s lunch time and I will cheat for once and give you options. Its my blog and I’ll cheat when and how I want to. Option one: The Katz’s of the north, Schwartz. Like bagels, even if you are very familiar with NYC style Pastrami you should try this. First, its an institution. Second, the smoked meat is pretty darn good, especially if you get it on the fatty side. Third, you can sample Poutine here too.

Lunch option two: Portuguese Chicken. Its not as popular as smoked meat among tourists and guide books, but its arguably a better option IMO. If you live in NYC, you can find really good Pastrami and even Montreal smoked meat (Mile End in Brooklyn), but its very hard to find fast casual Portuguese chicken grills like Ma Poule Mouillée for example. The chicken is perfect in every way. Crispy and juicy in all the right places, and brushed with that salty, spicy Peri Peri that even makes the fries taste amazing. You also got Pastel de Nata, and of course Poutine.

Its finally nap time. Do you nap on vacation, or even at home? If yes, I’m jealous. Last time I took a nap was one of the best moments of life. It ranks somewhere between the birth of my second, and the day Mrs Z lost her voice. But first, if you are staying at the old town, or just visiting, pop into Cafeterra for excellent berry topped pastries and solid coffee. Opened fairly recently by a Ukrainian couple.

That leaves 4-5 hours till the highly anticipated dinner at Bouillon Bilk. The food scene here is quite vast and that’s what draws me to this city. Much of the rest is not wildly different than NYC. There are options galore here, but 13 year old Bouillon Bilk is a classic in the making. While prices have increased substantially since my first visit 8 years ago, its still affordable compared to NYC once you factor CAD to USD conversation. The smart, ingredient driven 5 courser is $100 CAD currently. And the a la carte menu isnt terribly expensive. Not a bad day, eh?

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