Peru

10 Tips for Machu Picchu

Planning a trip to Machu Picchu? You came to the wrong place. Unless you are holding a baby, you have to drop what you are doing and get those MP tickets, before its too late. But since you already here, might as well check out these tips. I can almost guarantee that some of these will be new, even after extensive research.

Its actually Machu PEEK-choo

Raise your hand if you knew that. I met people that have been to MP and even took a tour and didnt know this. Now here’s why it matters. MAH-choo PEEK-choo means old mountain in Quechuan, the local dialect. While MAH-choo PEE-choo means old…. Penis! One theory is that locals dont correct visitors because they need to entertain themselves somehow. But its probably most likely the name got anglicized over the years

Buy MP tickets well in advance

This may be obvious, but you will be surprised how many travelers are not aware of this, and scramble at the last minute. This is pretty much the first thing you need to do after getting your flights. At least three months in advance. You will need your passport numbers when booking as with many of the purchases including some restaurants according to Peru law. You will also need to choose a “Circuit”. 2-a and 2-b are widely considered the best.

Prepare for a train sticker shock

You may have heard how cheap Perus is. And for the most part its a whole lot cheaper than US and much of Europe. Except when it comes to the train to Machu Picchu which will make Swiss trains cheap. Its essentially a duopoly that operates like a monopoly. Both companies offer pretty much the same prices which can easily top $200 for a round trip per person. We paid around $300 for the two of us

The train upgrades arent worth it

While researching you will see a variety of opinions on this so I will just add another one. Book whatever times convenient to you, and dont stress on the type of train. The difference between the basic and the upgraded trains like 360 and Vistadome dont merit paying the extra $$$ IMO. We did both on the Inca Rail and the difference was too marginal to impact the enjoyment level much. It also doesnt matter which side you sit, as frankly in the grand scheme of things of stunning Peru, the views were not as impressive as advertised.

Stay in Ollantaytambo

Its weird that most MP visitors stay in Cusco, and dont at the very least split their stay. Ollantaytambo is not only a lot closer, but you will need to go through it anyway. Its an actual living Inca city, and you will get a better understanding of MP after seeing the Olla sites first. But the most important reason is that its 2000 feet lower than Cusco, and that should help you with the acclamation.

No absolute need to buy bus tickets well in advance

You will see this advice often, but mainly from people who never arrived without bus tickets. You will most likely save a whopping 5-10 minutes if you buy bus tickets online. This is one area they made very efficient. Just go to the Consettur Bus Ticket office located on Avenida Hermanos Ayar (where the line is), and immediately go to the machine to take a ticket like a confident pro, and wait for your number to be called. One issue with getting all the tickets in advance is that you lose it all if the weather doesnt cooperate or you dont show up for another reason.

Stand on the right line

This is one thing we werent aware of and lost some time as a result. We were hardly the only ones. The long line you will see for the bus may not be for you if you arrive too early or even on time. The front of the line will usually have a sign that will indicate the timed line which we missed. At around 9 am, the long line can still be for the 9 am ticket holders while the 10 am is slowly forming by the wall. PS, good coffee at La Rivera Coffee Center on the same street

No need to prearrange with a guide

On the bus line there will be plenty of guides offering their services. The guides usually live in Cusco, and stay in Aguas Calientes for days if not weeks, leaving their families behind. You already spent $$$$ by this point just to get here, and supporting local guides will be small pocket change in comparison. But there’s no need to look for a guide on the internet as I did. Not only you will pay more but the recommendations are just like restaurants and hotels, subjective and cant really be compared to any other guide. Another tip is to make friends on the train or bus line and share the cost of the guide.

Read the fine print

Machu Picchu officials are a little finicky about what tourists are allowed to bring to the citadel. No umbrellas, high heels, baby strollers, tripods, selfie sticks (YES!!!), large backpacks, and even certain walking sticks like trekking poles with metal tips. All of which can harm the historic stones or other people. We were stopped because someone in our group had a portable chair she used as a walking stick. After a lot of begging the guard finally let us in.

Eat at Indio Feliz

Dont short change Aguas Calientes. Its a actually an attractive town with a population of 5000. It felt a little more local than I imagined after exploring much of the town. And boy did I pick the right place for lunch. Indio Feliz is not exactly a secret once you go up and discover entire group tours hiding in various floors above you. Its one of those places that look like a museum, with better than decent food. Try the Mango Chicken, a house specialty.

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La Mar – The Quintessential Lima Experience

Some people eat to live, some live to eat. If you are the latter, Lima should be high on your mental list, if not there already. If you are the former, Lima is not for you. Why selective eaters come to Lima is a small mystery. To see the erotic pre Colombian art at the Larco Museum? The homeless cats of Miraflores? There’s just enough to do and see here to merit a stay for more than one or two nights. But this is the one metropolitan city where food is its number one attraction and main reason to come. And that’s what makes this city so unique.

Some of the famed restaurants in Lima like La Mar are experiences in themselves. The La Mar experience starts months prior to the visit when you start reading reviews and studying the menu. You will quickly find out about the lines to get in, and your reaction may be, “f that, I’m not standing on a long line in a city with so many options”. Hit yourself with your bass fishing tournament participation trophy, or whatever closest. You will be in Lima, a city where you’ll pass the same cat colony 5 times. You’ll have plenty of time to stand on line for 30-60 minutes and be on your phone just like at your hotel room.

Your entire itinerary in fact will be centered around food, especially the day you will visit La Mar. Perfect time to skip the eggs and go for that yoghurt at the breakfast buffet, as hard as it is sometimes. And schedule a small museum like Larco in the morning before Ubering to the main event. In our case we arrived 30 minutes before opening (noon), and were the second couple in line. On the door it listed a capacity of 96, so after a quick math I determined we are in!

La Mar is a world renowned Cevicheria by the local legend Gastón Acurio. Like many Cevicherias in Lima, its open for lunch only. Traditionally Cevicherias were only open while the catch is fresh and available. Even with modern refrigeration and advancements today, they continue to keep traditions alive, but I suspect its also a business decision. Acurio and team are trying to mimic this experience all over the world with branches in Miami, SF, Dubai and more. The NYC location didnt last very long.

The Ceviche was indeed top notch. Fresh, delicious fish, well balanced tiger’s milk, different textures of giant corn (fresh and fried), and more spicy dry mix on the side in case we weren’t satisfied with the heat. And when you do go overboard, there’s sweet potatoes to extinguish the heat. In Ollantaytambo we had an incredible fancied Ceviche, but for a traditional this was simply perfect.

Another strong specialty here is the cold octopus smothered with a black olive and caper sauce that penetrated the octopus just enough to elevate. Our waiter recommended the grilled octopus instead which is an entire grilled octopus meant for a group. Tempting but with only two people a bit too much.

Then came the Causa. Causa is made mostly from layered seasoned mashed potatoes, stuffed with a protein and topped with hard boiled eggs and/or other stuff. In this case it was stuffed and topped with tuna tartare, avocado and eggs. Its bigger and heavier than what you see here, and its absolutely sensational. The challenge was to stop eating while getting full, since more is coming.

And as good as everything was, the lone hot dish was perhaps the best one. Arroz Enchichado, a creamy, slightly spicy risotto like, with hefty pieces of Congrio, Cusk eel in English, but not really eel. Texture somewhere between Halibut and Cod. Rich, comforting, complex, and easily best rice dish of the entire Peru trip.

But its really the sum of all parts. The atmosphere, service, local beer, comfort level, and the anticipation. Sit back and take it all in. Then go to the bathroom, and take in the view of 95 happy food pilgrims and locals. Food was just the icing on the cake.

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This is Palccoyo!

I feel that Peru’s jewels should be periodically reevaluated. Machu Picchu is no doubt stunning, but there’s a reason why I’m opting to write my first ever Peru post about Palccoyo, the other Rainbow Mountain. But before I get to that, did you know that we’ve been mispronouncing Machu Picchu all this time. Its actually Machu PICK-choo which means Old Mountain in Quechuan, the native Inca language. Machu PICH-choo means, wait for it… Old Penis. No wonder no one in Peru wants to correct you.

Machu Picchu got the looks and story, while Palccoyo IMO offers more sheer beauty. The result of millions of years of weathering and mineral oxidation, while being buried under a glacier. Hence the real comparison is with the much more famous Rainbow Mountain, Vinicunca. This is one of those situations where I feel most tourists are making a mistake, and there are good reasons why.

Palccoyo was only discovered right before Covid. Meaning, local indigenous communities of course knew about it, but it only opened to the public in 2018. Only three years after Vinicunca, but a three year head start was enough to put Vinicunca on the global map. Especially since Vinicunca got that showstopper shot at the end of the hike, making it very easy to sell.

Palccoyo doesnt have that money shot. But it takes just 5 minute from the parking lot to see the first of three Rainbow Mountains, and the entire 2 hour hike is as spectacular as I’ve ever seen. There are far fewer crowds (less than 10% of Vinicunca), and it’s a whole lot easier to manage. Vinicunca hike takes about two hours one way, and the hike itself doesnt offer the same spectacular views. Every guide we spoke to told us Palccoyo is the better option, while Vinicunca is the famous option. You see that often in travel.

That doesnt mean there’s no pain involved. To get here, just like Vinicunca, takes around 3.5 hours. Its an interesting drive through country side villages, a far cry from what you’ll see in Lima and even Cusco. The last hour is where the jaw starts to drop. A plethora of colorful bubbly mountains with scores of Llamas and Alpacas grazing on grass

Another factor is the elevation. At 4,900 meters (16,076 feet), you’ll be challenged in ways you didnt know exist. I had to take a breather every 5 steps going up. Under normal circumstances you can do this hike in 40 minutes, not two hours. But the views and various elements like the “Rock Forest” help. Walking down was much easier.

On the way back to Cusco, many if not all the tours of all the Rainbow Mountains intersect at the same lunch buffet. Not my favorite part of the day. I preferred breakfast where it was just us. Seeing our guide and driver order a huge bowl of Cordero (lamb) soup at 7 am, while we munched on our three bite ham and cheese sandwich packed by our hotel was interesting to say the least.

Most tours leave around 4-5 am for some reason. The negotiated 6 am start with David Aragon’s Cachi Life was perfect for us. We were back by 4. A day we will never forget.

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