It will be interesting to see the the next Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, coming out on December 1. I’ve never paid much attention to this list before. In fact, I didnt even know it exists as a separate list from the World’s Top 50. But now that I started exploring South America (better late than never), I’m all too familiar. Lists as such can seem random and sometimes nonsensical (except mine of course), but they can also be a good source before the vetting process.
If Efimero is omitted from the list, it would be both shocking and not totally surprising at the same time. Its not only in Cusco, not Lima, but its literally and figuratively a hidden gem. Most locals we spoke to never heard of it. And while close to the main square, its tucked inside a courtyard you can easily miss. As of early September, you could still get in without reservations on most nights. But after getting a taste of some of the places on the list, Efimero absolutely deserves a spot.
Efimero is keeping a low profile. Or maybe in Peru, outside of Cusco you dont have much of a choice without a thriving influencer scene. I also found a similar story in Ollantaytambo, except that one was hidden in plain sight, and still empty. You wont find Efimero on most if not any Best of Cusco lists, unless you dig deeper for this rare archeological find. Instead of another piece of pottery, its a rare coin.
When you first see Christian Navarrete Véliz, you wonder if they have a bring your kids to work days in Peru restaurants. The dude is 28 but looks closer to 15. And at 28 he already established quite a resume. Mirazur in France, Spain’s Mugaritz, Central in Lima, among other notables. Efimero is his first baby opened about a year ago. I never know what to expect from places like this. Could be great, or an experiment gone horribly wrong. But the end result was somewhere between Michelin one and two star quality with Bib Gourmet prices.
Its a small concentrated menu where every dish is about the same size. Five dishes including dessert was plenty for us. Its one of those cases where pictures dont really tell you much except for the plating style. The main ingredient is often buried entirely, and we’ve seen that in other restaurants in Peru. Maybe the element of surprise is more important here than Instagram.
After much deliberation we settled on Octopus, Tempura, Lamb, Antitucho and Banana dessert as they are named on the menu. Every single dish was stellar. Just the perfect balance, distinct flavors and textures, and smart use of sauces and foams. The Octopus especially was a triumph, topped with Lisa, one of roughly 4000 native Tubers. Its one of Christian’s favorite dishes, along with the Tempura, another masterpiece.
The expertly cooked Antitucho was beef in this case, not beef heart which is more traditional. The Lamb was more like a glorious stew you eat with a spoon. And the banana dessert was just the perfect finish for this banana everything lover.
A top 5 meal that beat some Lima gems. I spent the rest of my time in Cusco contemplating coming back but at the end we were glad to try some of the rest. One in particular (Oqre) was almost just as good. More on that and the rest of Cusco meals later.
