Posts Tagged With: food

A Ducky in East Village Dishes out Killer Goat

Ducks Eatery logo

 

June 17, 2018 Update

The annual much anticipated Z-List update is coming up soon so I figured I’ll give you a little preview.  Much anticipated in my household that is.  Something tells me Jean-Georges Vongerichten is not exactly losing sleep on this.  But who knows, I may be wrong

You gotta love places with a signature dish.  And then you really gotta love places with so many “classics” on the menu, you dont even need to order the signature dish.  I was having dinner at at Vietnamese place the other day, my second time there, and I came out as puzzled as ever about its must order dishes.  While at Ducks Eatery, you salivate at the usual suspects… ribs, wings, goat neck, and after the latest mini feast, smoked duck salad, and just about the most outrageous “Rice and Beans” you’ll find in NYC. Not many do the American classics better in NYC

July 23, 2017 Post

You can get goat all over the city, especially in Indian restaurants.  But Google “Goat Neck NYC” or “Smoked Goat Neck NYC” and see how many results come up.  Go ahead I’m waiting.  You will get many results, but all pointing to one place…  Ducks Eatery.  Thats because Ducks is the only place in NYC that offers it.  Why?  I’m not sure.  But one bite out of that thing makes you wonder.  Perhaps at this stage, its impossible for any chef with some integrity to add something like this to the menu without any infringement.  Its a revelation of sorts.  A level of tenderness and succulence I havent experienced in NYC, or at least not in a while.

Now, I’m not the biggest fan of Guy Fieri.  But on occasion I cross paths with him in my writings.  Perhaps to the point of “maybe I should start watching those DDD’s” ( I even forget what they stand for.  Drives, Diners, and Divas?).  So instead of trying to give this the proper justice with fancy food words like divine and OMFG, I will just refer you to this DDD clip which describes this dish and its inspiration very well.  As you see, making this goat requires 59 easy steps, a culinary degree, with a minor in economics.  It makes the price ($36) look like a robbery (where I’m the robber).  You may also want to watch Fieri in another EWZ favorite, Gazala’s Place in Midtown  Ducks Eatery Goat Neck

I suppose if you are a carnivore, that video is all you need.  My job is done here.  But I need to make it to at least 350 words or else its “No pastrami for you” the next time I’m at Z-List fave, and East Village tour staple Harry & Ida’s (Will and Julie Horowitz own Ducks and Harry & Ida’s).  So what should we talk about to fill the gap.  There’s apparently a front moving according to the news.  What happens when a front stops moving.  Is it still a front?  Or does it need to move by definition?  They never report on fronts that stay still, I dont believe.  You never hear “we have a front that is stuck for 3 days outside the Maryland coast”

I suppose I should also mention that the dry rubbed St. Louis Ribs here sport a beautiful red hue and would make any Texan blush (because of the East Village crowds).  And the wings here are gorgeously jerked and pepper-corned, and are going straight into the NYC Wings Hall of Fame.  We ordered another round.  This is serious BBQ folks.  But all of this including the seafood items like the fine smoked trout take on a supporting role after the most beautiful neck this side of Ibiza.

sfdef1Apparently its called a Stationary Front.  Where two air masses collide and neither strong enough to move each other.  Sort of like drunk sumo wrestlers leaning against each other.  But at some point they simply fall down and get dragged out of the rink ending in a tie.  But not before they piss on themselves.

Ducks Eatery
351 E 12th St (1st ave), East Village
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Goat Neck, Trout, Ribs, Wings, duck sa just get the Goat Neck

Ducks Eatery RibsDucks Eatery TroutDucks Eatery Wings

 

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Z-List Update

fob-chicken-and-sides

FOB Chicken Adobo

Its that time of the year.  Game of Thrones season.  I got my GOT beer and i’m ready to rock and roll through what seems like a terrible winter.  Or just winter!  I’m not quite sure what “terrible” means in GOT standards but it sounds like pretty bad-ass.  As in more than two months of 10 inches of snow total.

Its also time to update the legendary, ultra exclusive (according to Harvard) Z-List.  That is 50 of my favorite restaurants in the city.  If it looks rather random to some, good.  Thats the point.  Eater’s Essential List doesnt seem very Essential either.  Its simply my way of answering “what should we eat while in NYC” to 99% of those questioning.  None of these costs more than $100 or less than $10 so that eliminates a good chunk.  The changes:

In –  Pinch Chinese, Gloria, FOB, Via Carota, Hearth, Timna

Out:

Biang! – Closed (miss it terribly)

Annisa – Closed

Empellon Taqueria – Just dont care for it as much as I used to.

Mission Chinese food – A little too hit or miss for me these days

Nargis Cafe – Still great, but out of reach for most of my audience

Zizi Limona – Stopped going pretty much since Mesika left

Congratulations to the winners and the entire 2017 class.  You did it!

Click here for the complete list

Pinch Chinese Crab in Chinese Restaurant

Pinch Crab in Chinese Restaurant

 

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Stancija Kovačići – A Slow Food Gem Near Opatija

IMG_3297“Leave the coast, and wonderful things start to happen”.  A common statement that we heard from many locals, and got to experience all over the Croatia.  Not terribly surprising once you realize that much of Croatia’s tourism is tied to its coasts and islands. We are way passed “broken record” territory here in EWZ with this kind of preaching that is so true all over the world.  One of the first things I tell new visitors in NYC:  Want to eat well?  Head to residential neighborhoods.  Preferably not the wealthy ones.

Such is the case with Stancija Kovačići, a 10 minute drive from the resort town of Opatija. The curvy drive up the hilly neighborhood, through narrow streets feels slightly longer.  Especially when Google Maps makes you turn into someone’s bedroom.  But you feel it in your bones as soon as you park the car.  You reached that perfect resting spot that makes any long drive (Plitvice to Rovinj in our case) fairly easy.  Its interesting how our travel philosophies change as we get older.  When I was younger the whole concept of a leisurely 2-3 hour lunch on vacation sounded torturous.  These days I seek them every chance I get.IMG_3278

If rural Slow Fooders like this should be cherished, waiters like Hinko need to be UNESCOED.  This kind of easy going professionalism and adaptability in a modern setting (that terrace!) is a rarity.  It quickly turned into an “eating at your uncle’s house” scenario.  Except that your uncle wears a big apron and you are in a house with a Michelin caliber kitchen.  While here in NYC Michelin stars are distributed like candy (my mom has one), Croatia comically has just one, in Rovinj.  I didn’t mind this so much for selfish reasons, but you get the sense that more are deserving.

Both Hinko and chef/owner Vinko Frlan (not be confused with the law firm “Hinko, Vinko, and Stevens”) hail from the famed Kukuriku located nearby in Kastav.  As in Italy, a name like Kukuriku is perfectly acceptable in this part of the world.  In Stancija, as in much of the Slow Food type we visited in Croatia, menus are there just for emergencies.  You start with a small conversation with your waiter, decide on the items, number of courses, approximate price, and its party time.  I loved that about CroatiaIMG_3281

We started with one of those carpaccio orgies.  Thin strips of Seabass with just the right amount of their fine EVOO and Garlic Scapes (stalks or shoots that grow here for 15 days of the year).  Beef carpaccio came loaded with the same scapes and chanterelle like yellow mushrooms they call here Lisicarka.  The Grissini in both dishes was a nice touch and a reminder that we are getting close to mother Italia.

Then came the superbly chewy, squid ink coated Istrian Pasta pljukanci, with shrimp and the last asparagus of the season.  Croatians love their bitter wild asparagus and I see why.  A hearty, tender lamb ragu doing its best short rib imitation was served with herby polenta.  Croatia broke my all time record of talking, thinking, sometimes even inappropriately about Asparagus.  My previous record was 3 seconds.  Hinko even surprised us with an outstanding Asparagus and nettle soup with prosciutto crisps.

A nicely marbled lamb chop before a very proper dessert course ended this doozy of a meal.  We’ve had a number of great meals during this two week sprint, but this one topped them all.IMG_3277IMG_3280IMG_3285IMG_3288IMG_3295IMG_3292IMG_3299

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Hell’s Kitchen Summer Update

Yonekichi

Winter is coming!  July 16th to be exact.  That means time to load up on seafood, pea soups, and Japanese street snacks.  The first update in almost a year means it was quite the busy year.  I cleaned up a bit and removed some places that closed like Mooncake foods, but got a few doozies to replace it in the health department.  Big Mazal Tov to the new members…

Gloria – This neighborhood pescatarian was a no-brainer.

Yonekichi – Light and delicious Japanese Rice Burgers with great combo specials to boot

Fresh From Hell – Ingredient focused healtheria with sinful stuff like sandwiches featuring Sullivan bread.

PS.  As of this writing, Sullivan is closed for renovations.  A few more weeks they tell me

The complete Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide

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Hell’s Kitchen – Eating Outdoors

IMG_6257A new month means a new W42st edition floating all over Hell’s Kitchen.  I love doing the Hell’s Kitchen tours on launch day and seeing them everywhere.  The design and size of those babies brightens galleries, restaurants, and even those $5 fortune tellers.  This month’s theme is outdoors, and for only $5 you can probably find out next month’s exciting theme.  So pick up a copy and check out the rest of the issue including these outdoor venue picks, in color this time

Gotham West Market – Brilliantly designed, with outside bar counters and tables on both sides.  Even the occasional Lincoln Tunnel traffic is respectful

Il Baretto – Well crafted sandwiches and salads on the quiet side of the kitchen (ok, quieter).  Facing HK’s biggest park.

The Marshal – Try not to sneeze when you pass by this Farm to Sidewalk, or you may miss it.  Its like the speakeasy of outdoor dining

Otto’s Tacos – Get the Shrimp tacos with a side of Masa fries and watch the world go by.  And by world I mean tourists.

The Press Lounge – At the end of the day, this is the place to soak it all in.  Hooray for zoning laws!IMG_6256

 

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Gloria, I Think We Got Your Number

Gloria Shrimp

May 21, 2018 Update:

Did you see the news?  Gloria retains its 3 star rating!  You probably missed it because, well, the news is not out yet.  But it will be in a minute.  Gloria in Hell’s Kitchen is quite possibly the most underrated restaurant in NYC today, and I have proof.  Gloria registers a 0.12 on the TouristMeter™.  TouristMeter™ is a foolproof way of measuring how touristy a place is by dividing the number of TripAdvisor reviews (mostly tourists) by the number of Yelp reviews (mostly locals).  The lower the number the more local it is.  And when you are walking distance from Times Square it doesnt get much lower than this.

The magnificent Skate has now been replaced by a magnificent Skate!  It is now a mammoth $50 Skate for two which we elected not to have this time.  The Jonah Crab with that Sabayon sauce is pure joy with every bite and perhaps the best dish today.  The Octopus is still good.  And the fish mains with their super complimentary sauces are outstanding!  The Monkfish is served with an oniony broth, and the Red Snapper with its own delicate broth.  I dont believe there’s a dud on this menu.  Friends, if you enjoy good Seafood, and dont wish to pay Le Bernardin money for it, this is the place for you.  Major Go!

June 25, 2017 Post

53rd street in Hell’s Kitchen is a street I’m well familiar with.  I used to walk by Kiran, an Indian restaurant formerly at the same space as Gloria like a Hassid in East Village.  Face covered so the super nice owner wouldnt see me walking by.  I didnt want to break his heart after years of loyalty while I was cheating with another Indian on 9th.  After Kiran it was another love hate relationship, CoBa 53.  They opened, they closed (thanks Health Dept, and Obama!), they reopened but could never find their groove.  The biggest, weirdest gripe I had with them was that this was the one place where tablecloths just seemed out of place.

So when I heard Pescatarian Gloria opening in that spot, I needed to see it and taste it to believe it.  Instead of the usual Walk of Shame or avoiding that corner of 53rd entirely, I actually coudnt wait to see what they’ve done with the space.  Nifty light fixtures replaced with niftier ones, and the tablecloths are GONE.  The irony is that after all the space anticipation I forgot to take a picture of it.  Multiple shots of every dish (Our neighbors who flat out stole our corn bread thought we are some sick food paparazzi) but nothing of the space.  Gloria Octopus

I often start posts like this one with a Jambalaya of irrelevant junk, before giving a place the proper praise it deserves.  So before I lose any more reader, I can honestly say that this was one of those meals.  A solid 3 star!  The most refreshing thing to open in Hell’s Kitchen since The Marshal introduced us to American food (we have every Thai and Mexican imaginable, but good luck finding good ribs).  Some call Gloria a mini Contra as thats the place most associated with it (GM formerly with Contra).  But its more like a mini Le Bernardin.

Corn Bread – Nothing wrong with this bread course.  Except for the fact that we got it fairly late in the game after they initially delivered ours to the next table.

Black Bass Tartare – Pretty to look at, and one of the dishes to get.  Just wonderful flavor with the watermelon radish adding nice brightness.

Jonah Crab – Simple, yet outstanding!  The sweet as lobster crab mixed with strips of Kohlrabi (like a cross between Turnip and Daikon) and aided by a thin eggy Sabayon.  Ok, maybe not that simple.

Octopus – Yet more delicious awesomeness.  Perfectly cooked Octopus slices sitting on a bed of cabbage and black rice, delivering one heck of a nasty bite.  Its rare to see a place deliver so many probable menu staples so early in the game

Shrimp – If I may briefly pause the party for just a sec.  I think this is the only one I would skip next time, which is more of a testament to the rest of the lineup.  Nothing wrong with the shrimp and their Gulf funkiness, but nothing new flavor wise with the Cortez sauce.  And the Hominy made my brain expect Peruvian corn like texture but that snap was sorely missing.

Skate Wing – This is it.  The one, the Neo, the dish to get.  There’s nothing better in the seafood universal than Skate Wing simply seared with butter with a sprinkle of magic dust.

Panna Cotta – Meh!  But no point deductions here

Go!

Gloria
401 West 53rd (off 9th), Hell’s Kitchen
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: Skate Wing, Octopus, Tartare, Crab, Monkfish, Red Snapper

Gloria TartareGloria Skate Wing

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Karlić Tartufi – Everybody’s Truffling

Karlić Tartufi EggsI always thought Truffle Hunts were sort of a joke.  You go to the forest with a bunch of eager puppies to look for truffles planted there the morning of.  Sort of like finding the Matzah during Passover, except for the forest, and eager part.  The only way to get my kids to look for Matzah these days is if we plant a white truffle along with it.  So after all those trips to Italy including Piedmont, I never imagined that I would get my truffle hunt certificate in Croatia.  Husband, Father, Lover of Pizza, Tour Guide, Truffle Hunter.  My tomb stone is starting to resemble the Stanley Cup.

Did they plant them?  I dont have the slightest idea.  Was it fun?  You bet ya!  Its not just about the hunt, but the entire experience.  During the hunt I was honestly more concerned about dodging dog poop than look for truffles in that terrain (they were VERY eager).  Black truffle terrain turns out is tougher to maneuver than white truffle.  And when you train those puppies to eat what they find, you have to be on your toes.  Or go with a qualified truffle hunter like Ivan Karlic, the grandson of the guy who started it all 50 years ago.  IMG_3827

We learned the ins and outs of the hunt including the difference between teaching them to eat it vs bring it to you.  And how male dogs are just too horny for this kind of work.  In addition to the main Motovun forest where licensed guides roam around, the Karlic family also owns their own groves where hazelnut trees will start producing truffles 7 years after planting.  Meanwhile today, exhausted city slickers turned hunters pick fresh cherries out of the groves and pose for selfies.

If the hunt was exhilarating, the meal before the hunt was pure ecstasy.  If humans would poses similar instincts to those dogs, I imagine it would have been very easy to train us to find truffles.  We would even carry the bonus of not eating everything we find, and clean our own poop.   They start you with truffle brandy, and end with truffle Nutella, with truffle salami and truffle cheese in between.  Along with truffle oil (real, not perfume), truffle cream and truffle honey available for you just in case you want more truffle.  And did I mention the Truffle Scrambled eggs.  Let me see.. I dont think I did.  Butter is mixed in with finely shredded black truffles and eggs before finishing with more shredded truffles.  The result is what wet dreams are made of.  If Karlic decides to use that saying in their brochure or website, I allow it.IMG_3830Karlić TartufiIMG_3848IMG_3839IMG_3825IMG_3813IMG_3806IMG_3804IMG_3802IMG_3807IMG_3858

 

 

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Nur – Adoni Hagadol

Nur EggplantWe have a Sabra invasion in full swing and no one bats and eyelid, not even Trump.  Einat Admony (Balaboosta, Bar Bolonat, Taim), Efraim Nahon (Taboon), Michael Solomonov (Dizengoff), Nir Mesika (Timna), and many more, including now Meir Adoni, an Israeli superstar opening his first in NYC.  The falafel kingdom continues to expand with chainlets like Taim, and Nish Nush leading the way.  And we even have a (sort of) Israeli bakery chain in Breads Bakery, whose owner is Adoni’s partner at Nur.  Even my new favorite French dessert spot in East Village is owned by talented Israelis.

But something is missing in NYC, and that something has something to do with the title, and real estate.  When I was in LA last time, we discovered a place called Itzik Hagadol (Big Isaac), a sprawling “fast-casual” (new phrase which I hate but use anyway) spot in Encino, serving Israeli classics like falafel, hummus, babaganoush, and things you dont normally find here like Mititei.  I was into my second Shashlik when I realized… NYC doesnt really have one of those.  If I want to take my extended family somewhere on a whim here, I wouldnt know where to go.  But if I want to take my wife to a fancy Israeli or one that requires knowing the right people who can reserve a table for you 4 weeks in adavnce, I got plenty of options.  Thats NYC for you, and the nature of Manhattan real estate.  Either things are too fast, or too expensive.  “Fast Casual” is lacking here.

NurSo if Adoni wants to open an Adoni Hagadol, I wont even take royalties.  He’s already off to a flying start, hotter than a Shakshuka in the Sinai.  We werent quite sure what to expect from Israel’s culinary idol.  And when we arrived, as often happens when we come back from an extended European trip, we are greeted with a jolt in the way of three greeters.  I think on average the employee/diners ratio is roughly 5 times higher in NYC than anywhere in Europe.  Why do we need three hosts!

 

But the good news is that almost nothing but greatness on those plates….

Honey and Garlic Challah –  I gather that the first two breads on the menu are the highlights here, but I wanted to try something else.  Besides, the Kubaneh and the Sesame Bagel, arent very unique to NYC anyway.  You can get a similar Kubaneh with S’chug and other condiments at Timna, and a fine Jerusalem sesame bagel at Bar Bolonat.  But the Challah was fine, doused with just enough honey and garlic on top, served with pickled onions, and creme fraiche.  While we liked it, I secretly cried a little at night for not getting the Kubaneh after all!

Jerusalem Sesame Bagel – Hagadol serves a bigger sesame bagel.  Nice and buttery, just like the bagels in Mahane Yehuda market, albeit 10 times pricier.  And just like in Bar Bolonat it comes with Za’atar on the side, and an exceptional tehini-like Lima Bean Messbaha.nur Sesame Bagel

Date Doughnuts – Very good and very Mediterranean. Comes in two, along with this addictive curry Citrus Vinaigrette. By the end of the night I dipped everything in this thing including forks, fingers, car keys, and wife’s finger.

Damascus Qutayef – Essentially fried Lamb Pancake.  This was fine.  If I have to pick one dish I wouldnt order again, I think this is it.  The sweet notes were a little overpowering for me.  But the sides of Marcona almonds with cucumbers, and a gazpacho like yogurt chaser at least kept this interesting

Horias – Excellent!  “Lamb Kebab in Pita” is more like mini lamb Shawarmas inside these perfectly crispy pitas with a hint of Amba (Mango condiment).  As some of the other dishes it comes on top of old newspapers for some reason with some pickled veggies.  You can munch while getting up to speed on the latest Cricket wives gossipNur Horias

Eggplant Carpaccio – Possibly the dish to get here, which is ironic considering its the only vegetarian dish outside the bread category.  Smoky, creamy, crunchy at times, and simply delicious.  Not every bite is the same.  The only minor quibble one might have is that the dish is listed under Big Plates but is more of an app.  Its a big plate alright, but not the content.  Possibly the eggplant to beat after Atoboy in NYC

Sea bass – Well cooked, supremely flavorful black bass, with more eggplant, Freekeh, Broccoli Rabe, and Spring Beans.  Adoni clearly likes his eggplant which he features throughout.

Lamb – Two fine skinny tender lamb loins.  Like the Seabass, all sorts of Meshugas on the plate like a Lentil salad, and what really stole the show for me, a Lamb and Bulgar filled onion.  The “Mains” here made me appreciate Timna even more.  I found a lot of similarities all over the menu but in particular the way the mains were constructed.  Complex and ingredient heavy, but truly exceptional stuff

Nur
34 E 20th St (Brway/Park), Flatiron
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: Sesame Bagel, Date Doughnuts, Damascus Qutayef, Eggplant Carpaccio, Sea Bass, Lamb

Nur ChallahNur Damascus QutayefNur Date doughnutsNur LambNur Sea Bass

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Konoba Pece in Vinjerac

On the way to Konoba PeceWarning:  The following post is more about the Show rather than Tell.  There are a handful of very strong candidates to write the first post about after this adventure, but I cant think of anything more deserving.  Its a rare Location Location Location situation, and not so much about the food.  Although there was nothing really wrong with the food.  We just didnt give it much of a chance to prove itself beyond the one wonderful course that we thoroughly enjoyed.  It could have been the meal of a century, if not perhaps for a group of 40 German tourists occupying the place before us.  Leaving us just enough time for a short meal before rushing for another highlight, the famous Zadar sunset.

The owner of Konoba Pece has two hobbies… grilling and stone work.  They go hand in hand here, as in order to enjoy this one properly, one needs to create a fine looking deck.  I rarely look for dining options with a view, but sometimes you find places that just grab you like nothing else.  There are stars you put on the map, some of which are “would like to”, while some are “just in case we are in the area”, and some you arrange the entire day around.  Its the type of place that wants you be a better photographer.  Or a photographerKonoba Pece Scampi

Our meal included a perfectly grilled octopus stuffed with Pag Cheese and Prosciutto which added much delectable richness.  There was the option of having the Octopus stuffed with nothing, which seemed rather boring in this foreign country, compared to the alternative.  How often do we get to eat Cheese from the island of Pag inside of an octopus.  And then there was what became a semi obsession in Croatia, Scampi in Buzaru sauce.  This is a down and dirty dish, not for the faint of clean shirt.  In Dubrovnik they gave us a bib for a saucy pasta roughly 100 times safer. Buzaru is a simple sauce of tomato, garlic, herbs and wine, making those sweet scampi (Langoustine) most succulent.

The drive alone to Vinjerac from Zadar is part of the experience.  And yet there’s another reason to head there, the red bridge, Maslenicki Most.  This little Most is like the Hostess with the Mostess.  Just cross it and park on the left for some spectacular shots.  Then take the highway back if you are driving to Zadar, or drive to the restaurant (10 minutes away).Konoba Pece OctopusKonoba Pece insideKonoba PeceKonoba Pece Red Bridge

 

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Hell’s Kitchen – 5 Asian Dishes I Can’t Get Enough of

Blue Ribbon Sushi Oxtail Fried RiceThe latest issue of W42st has a proud theme.  Inside there’s a mini zine where you’ll find 5 Asian dishes I’m mostly proud of

Oxtail Fried Rice at Blue Ribbon Sushi – Bone Marrow added for exceptional richness, while fluffy omelette makes it exceptionally good looking.  Sauteed Squid is a close runner-up

Tofu at Danji – The only tofu I consistently order in NYC.  A Hell’s Kitchen classic

Pad Ped Moo Krob at Larb Ubol– Its like the “Best of Thai” in one dish.  Beautiful crispy pork belly, Thai eggplant, peppercorns, curry paste, and plenty of chili heat

Shredded Beef w/Asian Spicy Green Chili at Gourmet Szechuan 56 – Its so good, it makes you put the phone away.  Besides, I cant catch a signal here anyway.

Pork and Crab Soup Dumplings at Kung Fu Little Steamed Buns Ramen – I’ve ordered them so many times, they’ve stopped asking what I want.  My picture should be on that wall in no time, next to Andrew Zimmern

Danji Tofu

 

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | 4 Comments

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