The Gotham West Market’s executive in charge of luring interesting new vendors must have one of the toughest jobs in America. It turns out that surviving so deep inside Hell’s Kitchen, a neighborhood dominated by young professionals and Bulldogs is pretty tough. Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop is the only original vendor left since they opened about 5 years ago. Changes are happening in a furious pace. Latest shocker is the departure of Genuine Roadside, a burger joint owned by Avroko the firm that designed GWM. Sources tell me Corner Bistro another burger joint will be its replacement. Yes, I have sources.
For a moment there, with the shuttered burger option, GWM’s total demise seemed in sight. I mean how much more pain can these Bulldogs take. Enter Dell’anima! Yes, that Dell’anima that you may have heard about but never went because it got lost in the crazy West Village Italian shuffle. It managed to survive a decade there generating quite the following, but ultimately succumbing to ultra gentrification like so many others. Today’s rent squeeze means you have to be creative with the real estate, but it also means winners may emerge elsewhere. In this case its Hell’s Kitchen which may have just gotten its best Italian.
I’ve been hanging around so much at Dell’anima lately (before or during tours) that I’m having my mail forwarded there. It replaces the space of El Colmado, joining Ivan, Seamore’s, Corner Slice, Ample Hills Creamery and a Jianbing joint (Beijing style crepes) as the current residents. A very different lineup to even going back a few months, not to mention on opening day. Dell’anima features the type of concentrated menu that feels fresh and unique in the entire Hell’s Kitchen universe where Italian is somewhat lacking. And I can safely say this again: Gotham West Market is a solid, severely overlooked pre-theater option. At least for the time being.
The mostly Roman inspired pastas here is the main draw although everything else I’ve tried was exceptional. There’s a Tajarin Carbonara with Speck and egg that is so good I had to come back for it when I didnt have to share it with three women (My family. I’m not THAT popular). The Tagliatelle Alla Bolognese was another winner. There’s also a Tagliolini Cacio e pepe and a standard but fine looking Orecchiette with sausage.
Only two Secondis on the menu, and at least one of them is superb. A chili crusted, juicy Pollo al Diavolo sitting on top Broccoli Rabe. The charred octopus, a popular dish in the previous location is excellent as well. It comes with “Rice Beans”, cannellini Beans so young they resemble large grains. While not one of these fat Spanish octopuses you come across sometimes, its zesty and delicious, and the dish works well as a whole. Go!
Dell’anima
600 11th Ave (Gotham West Market, Hell’s Kitchen)
Rating: Two Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Octopus, Chicken, Carbonara
EV Bites is a monthly feature (well sort of. I may have skipped a few), that showcases five places in or around East Village you should know about. I will occasionally extend the border to surrounding hoods and maybe even mention a name more than once. East Village in case you are not aware is an incubator for top industry talent, and a goldmine of world cuisine.
When I was very young, like around age one, I was really really handsome. And I dont mean how all young babies and toddlers are beautiful in a way. I’m talking stunning beauty, almost girlish like. My nickname in daycare was Kendall. I had this ravishing hot blonde (I think that’s the correct color name) hair, and I was extremely pleasing to the eye. So pleasing that my parents were constantly worried of the ‘
Ask 100 Staten Islanders what is good to eat on the island and the answers will be roughly as follows: 50 will say pizza. 25 will swear by the Eyetalian. 10 will say nothing, as in time will expire until they can come up with something. 10 will say Mexican. 4 may surprise with Spanish. And 1 will mention Sri Lankan, followed by ding ding ding. Mexican is in fact getting better. But Sri Lankan is still the correct answer if we are talking about reasons to come to the island for food. Coincidentally 1 is also the percentage of my readers that will make the trek to the island for food (or live there). But last time I checked this is an equal borough opportunity blog.
In the black sea of Uzbek and Ukrainian eateries on Brighton Beach Ave, one can easily forget the avenue two blocks up, Neptune. Like 10th ave in Hell’s Kitchen, 7th avenue in Sunset Park, these are the forgotten practical blocks. As a visitor you tend to gravitate towards the hubs. But when you live in the hood, this is where you fix your chipped tooth, visit your favorite tarot card reader, or get that pastrami sub from the deli guy that knows exactly how you like it.
When is a concept, not really a concept. Or doesnt feel like one. If you walk inside Kish Kash in West Village without knowing anything about it, it may feel like just another casual restaurant serving food that my be even too familiar. But once you read about it you can see that this is not your ordinary kitchen. Its the only place in NYC that makes couscous the way it was made 300 years ago. Couscous made with a lot of love that accumulated over the years by chef Einat Admony (Balaboosta, Taim).
Eating With Ziggy 