Courtesy of Zahav
It only took 10 years. Pretty much everyone I know including my oldest who now lives in Philly made it to Zahav before me. Winning the coveted Outstanding Restaurant at the 2019 James Beard awards, the Oscars of dining in America, didnt help my quest. It doesnt seem like its mission impossible, but over the years, every time I tried, I failed to reserve a table. So last Sunday I sent an email declaring myself available in case of a cancellation, and lo and behold, an hour later I had a table reserved for four.
The story is inspiring. While it was Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook’s third restaurant when they opened Zahav in 2008, it wasnt an immediate success. They barely made it through year one. Judging by the number of hosts we spotted last Sunday, these guys have gone a long way. To get the James Beard prize a restaurant must be open for 10 consecutive years. Solomonov and Cook struck gold, or “Zahav” which means gold in Hebrew. But Zahav in this case is more of a reference to Jerusalem, city of gold. The food touches on Jerusalem’s street food, and the room mimics elements of its hidden courtyards. Supposedly! It was a little dark.
Ordering at Zahav is like a surprise math quiz that you dont want to screw up. The much touted Tayim tasting menu works for some, but not all. For our family, it made more sense to order a la carte. iPhone flashlight was used to see the menu, take some god-awful shots, and on occasion make sure the people sitting across are still my children. Gone are the days when I get embarrassed when someone uses flash at my table. I’m now that guy.
The food for the most part lived up to the hype. The Salatim, miniature size rotating salads of the day were all on point, with everyone reaching for different favorites. More scrumptiousness followed with the Mezzes, where the cauliflower, the Israeli staple, and Haloumi being particular standouts. The good news is that the signature silky smooth hummus is awesome. The bad news is that the silky smooth hummus is awesome. I’ll explain.
The grilled section dubbed “Al Ha’esh” (literally means “on top of fire” – my favorite kind of grilled) were well-thought-out, expertly cooked tapas size “mains”. The Lamb merguez was good but overshadowed by the the others. The excellent grilled eggplant reminded me of eggplant in some Chinese restaurants. The Chicken Shishlik (Kebab in Russian, one of the many influences in Israeli cuisine) was zesty and quite juicy. And the two bites I had of the Branzino were great.
Everything was cooked well and featured nice combination of flavors and textures. But at the end of the day something was missing. It could be the only large dish of the house, the signature whole-roasted lamb shoulder which is only available via the larger “Mesiba” tasting menu. I’m pro business. I dont usually suggest how restaurateurs should conduct their business, as they do things for a reason in order to survive the game. But as a consumer, it would have been nice to have this dish available for us. Some of us got smaller stomachs (mine is shrinking), and the Mesiba (party in hebrew) just meant way too much food. I didnt want a party, but a casual get together. Instead we watched this glorious looking plate parade all over the room, while we take small bites off our tapas.
I suppose we could have chosen more than one chicken or fish, and had our own mini Mesiba if you will. But on your first visit, you fall into the trap of trying various dishes, and the habit of ordering a dish more than once is foreign to us. The lack of large plates meant a couple of bites in some cases, and just when your taste buds start to warm up to a new flavor, its gone. At the end of the meal we all agreed that our favorite was the hummus, a dish I’ve had many times at Dizengoff. Granted, it was even more awesome here. But on my highly anticipated first visit, I was craving a knockout dish I hadn’t had before. Otherwise, the prices are fair, and its a true gem in center Philly that would do fairly well in NYC.
Spaghetti alle Vongole at Trattoria Tramonto
Tuna Tartare at Jacala
This is not your father’s Coney Island Ave. When I lived in that part of Brooklyn in the 80-90s, Turkish places like Sahara dominated. Turkish, car washes, ice cream, and affordable divorce lawyers to be exact. Nowadays, the business hub, that doesnt quite lead to Coney Island, features even better Turkish (Taci’s Beyti), respectable Moldovan (Moldova), Uzbek royalty (Nargis), swanky Russian nightclubs like Chinar, and a plethora of Pakistani joints between Foster and H. And when I want to kick it up a notch, there’s always 
Meats in a form of kebabs and lamb chops dominate the menu. Lulya kebab (minced meat) here is thick and juicy. But what sets them apart here is they are wrapped with thin dough. Get the lamb over chicken. Guru Hingal is a thin pappardelle like noodles topped with a “ragu” of onions, and lamb cooked in its own fat. You wont find better tasting pasta in south Brooklyn.
Sometimes I cringe when I read my old posts. Ever so often it starts with the title. Why did 
I’ve come to realize that I’m not much of a beach reader these days. The heat, the glare, the turquoise water, way too many distractions out there. But what’s my excuse at home? Dont know. But at the beach I prefer long walks, listening to music, and sometimes just aimless staring while getting lost in random thoughts. Albert Einstein got much of his ideas from aimless wandering. I’m getting there. The best I came up with in 6 days is “What the heck is a Post Malone”, and “How do you spell Rendezvous, anyway”. Silent Zs just seem so annoyingly wasteful, especially these days for some New Yorkers (Verrazzano is missing a Z in all 96 road signs and business names).
Its that time of the year. The time we look back, reflect, and look forward. The time we argue about the spelling of Hanukkah, and wonder how impeachment works exactly. The time we look back at the wonderful things we ate during the year all over the world. The time to call your mom, and watch vacation pictures. In that order. Yes, call you mom, and buy her something meaningful this time. A puppy, a food tour, a trip to Anguilla. Something that will change her life.
Tacos, one of the four pillars of Hell’s Kitchen. Thai, Ramen, and bars are the other three. I cant think of many Hell’s Kitchen corners where you are not less than 5 minutes away from good tacos. But try telling that to the 100 or so poor souls standing on a long line in freezing temps at Los Tacos #1 (or is it #2) in Times Square because their notes say so. Oh its good alright. But in this Little Puebla there are options. Many options.
Olivier Bistro – Its beginning to sound like another cliche, but Olivier Bistro is the type of place every neighborhood needs. I’ve been frequenting Olivier for a few years now but for some reason never wrote about it. Talented French born Olivier Verdier is constantly on his toes, offering a mix of specials and a plethora of French classics for the steady regulars. Its the closest you’ll get to an authentic French Bistro in Brooklyn. The burger is always solid. As are the Shishito peppers, Cassoulet, Moules Frites, Hanger Steak, and make sure to ask about today’s poison! (fish). I’ve never had a bad dish here. 469 4th Ave (Gowanus)
Remember that old commercial.. “Stay Fresh a little longer… say goodbye a little longer..”, The actual products dont stick, but the songs often do. If you dont remember this one its probably because, well, it doesnt exist. Its actually a Wrigley Big Red gum commercial that goes “So kiss a little longer…”, and the fresh part was only in my head. But the idea of the commercial is that the gum will keep you fresh longer than normal so you could kiss longer, for some reason. Why would anyone want to do it in public is beyond me. Kissing in public for more than 3 seconds is rare, awkward and should be banned frankly for the safety of the individuals and motorists. You practically asking for herpes. And at home you have Listerine for that.
Much of Santina’s originality is attributed to one item, Cecina. While Santina bills itself as coastal Italian, mainly Liguria and Tuscany, this chickpea pancake is different than anything we had between Genoa and Lucca. Its softer and spongier, but not in a bad way. On recent visits I enjoyed it with tuna infused with Calabrian chili, and avocado thats essentially the best Guacamole within a two mile radius. Once wrapped with the Cecina ‘slice’, you get four tasty snacks. Add the accompanied red sauce to the second or third Cecina for a change of pace and maximum oomphness. The Cecina is reason #365 why you should stop reading 
Eating With Ziggy 