New York City

Marta – Roman Rule, Stage 2

Posted on May 30, 2016 by Ziggy

Marta Marta Marta…

Update 5/30/16:

4-5 trips since the last update and a lot more awesomeness out of Marta to compensate for the dubious title (I must have just watched Gladiator for the 100th time). The Carbonara pie is just about my favorite pie in NYC at the moment, though recently I also discovered the Mushroom pie that does it for me. Rabbit meatballs was replaced by chicken but you hardly notice a difference. Get the grilled chicken people. Some of the most tender, gorgeously brined birds out there. The Suppli Cacio e Pepe (there he goes again with the C&P) carry a lot of punch. Took friends here last night and Marta Marta Marta delivered yet again.

Update 9/28/14:

Two more fantastic meals at Marta. Patate Alla Gricia – Good amount of potato with Guanciale, Pecorino, Black Pepper, and egg which was a supplement at that time. The Gricia was later replaced with Patate Alla Carbonara…

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Lilia – Cacio e Perfect!

Posted on May 24, 2016 by Ziggy

July 26, 2023 Update

February 23rd, 2018 Update:

Forgive me readers, for I have sinned. Its been 643 days since my last meal at Lilia. Its just that it continues to be one of the toughest tables in Brooklyn. You either need to have friends in high places, or low places. Or just call at 10 am when they open 30 days out. Thats the biggest tip I can give you on this update. 10 am! Not 10:01, not 9:58. 10! Its imperative that you try the simple brilliance of Missy Robbins, and do it soon.

Add the Fettuccine to the list of classics. Robbins uses a thin but potent Tomato Passato with spicy lamb sausage and Fennel seeds. After the initial palate shock, it settles down into one heck of a “Red Sauce” dish. Another new hit for me is a starter of Roasted Trumpet Mushrooms, rocket, balsamic, and Sicilian almonds (the best almonds on the planet). Rocket? Yes, I said, Rocket. We are apparently the only country in the world that calls it Arugula. Lilia gets 3 very solid Z’s.

May 24th, 2016 Post:

This burg has changed. 30 years ago, when I was a young shy boy-man growing in Brooklyn, Williamsburg was the place I used to go to fix my car. The immediate area around Lilia, including the building that houses Lilia, was like one giant Auto Shop extravaganza. Since I grew up poor, my first cars used to break often, and so were my visits to North Williamsburg. Sometimes I would even need a little push on the BQE to make it to my destination. Oh the good ol’ days. There was no other reason to go to the area until we discovered Sea, the cheap, clubby Thai temple that is still going strong today. My Thai preferences shifted as I got older, but Sea was the place where we could have fun as a group, and still save for those car mechanics.

Fast forward to 2016, my auto shop is now a bank, and the area overall has clearly, how do you say, gentrified? (a little Top Secret humor). Gentrification, a term every New Yorker learns at some point. Like when you discover the last remaining $1 dumplings place in your neighborhood has closed, or when grandpa announces during Thanksgiving dinner that he can no longer receive happy ending at his salon. Now we travel to North Williamsburg as a family for pizza, Maine seafood, and Cacio e Pepe renditions that puts some of the neighboring borough great Cacios to shame.

Lilia delivered the type of meal that almost makes you want to move to Williamsburg (Parking, and lack of reliable auto shops stand in the way). Although my team of critics and I had to wait a month to score a table (damn you Hot Lists and all your informative wisdom), the initial feeling upon enetering is that of a comfortable neighborhood spot where you just want to hang on a Sunday night. Roomy, bright, high beam ceilings, and did I mention roomy? A luxury these days in North Brooklyn and Manhattan. Even when you consider the number of employees almost match the number of diners, no one is on top of you, and the space makes you want to get up and run around, with scissors, naked (I’m seeing someone about that)

The menu reads like a beautiful mashup of Italian and Dr. Seuss. There was pasta, meat, veggies, little fish, big fish. Or perhaps the ultra talented Missy Robbins is a PJ Harvey fan (She wasnt there to ask). The punchy Cacio e Pepe Fritelle, from the cocktail snack section, is a must get starter. Little fried balls of awesomeness. The Bagna Cauda, a Piedmont specialty of veggies you dip in an anchovy garlic sauce was like the Best of Union Square Market album. I would order this just for Robbins’ ability to pick the finest of the bunch. Then there was this perfectly cooked Cauliflower with hints of Spicy Soppressata, Sicilian Pesto. If there are trends all over town these days, Cauliflower and Cacio e Pepe are right up there.

The pastas here are so good, that by the end of the meal you find yourself playing “lets rank the pastas” with your neighbors. I won! The yellowest, longest, most beautiful, straight from an orthopedic pillow infomercial, Agnolotti, filled with Sheeps Milk cheese, and finished with butter, saffron, honey, and much needed acid from dried tomato that completes the dish. At most places this would be #1. Here its #3 from the three we tried. The ‘imperfect’ Malfadini looked and tasted pretty perfect to me. Take your average Cacio e Pepe, change the pasta to something with more texture, sharper cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano, and pink peppercorns, and you essentially got Cacio e Pepe on crack cocaine. And then comes the tomato-less Pappardelle with veal and porcini ragu. Quite a contrast and an upgrade over other such ragus all over town, one of which by Via Carota I’ve had days earlier. What a difference. Its all about the slow braised meat and its juices, reminiscent of the Ostera Morini meatless Stracci with mushrooms.

Normally after a start like this, secondis rarely wow. They wowed here, but not without some quibbling. A veal steak, far from your average veal, was cooked to pink perfection with plenty of flavor to boot from the Serrano peppers, herbs, lime and the rest of it. The size was certainly there, but what was missing considering the previous dishes, and the price (almost $30, forget exactly) was at least one more vegetable. The magnificent Black Bass with Salsa Verde, on the other hand, came on top a roasted potato, but was missing more bass. Minor quibbles when considering the entire meal.

Missy Robbins was Barack Obama’s favorite chef in Chicago before he became president. With a name like that its surprising to learn that Lilia is her first owned restaurant. While I need another visit or two to make it official, Lilia is a top 3 Italian, and a shoe in for the Z-List. Mazal Tov 😉

Lilia
567 Union Ave, Brooklyn
Rating: 3 Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Clams, Mushroom, Fettuccine, Malfadini, Agnoloti, Veal, Bass

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: food, Lilia, Lilia Brooklyn, Lilia NYC, Missy Robbins, restaurants, Travel | 5 Comments

Why I Like to Take Groups to Da Andrea

Posted on May 22, 2016 by Ziggy

This was a good eating weekend that included old faves Da Andrea and The NoMad. While its not on the Z-List, Da Andrea continues to be my most frequented place mainly for the reasons stated below. While I wouldnt take foodies there these days, I cant think of another place in NYC I’d rather take friends or a large group. They dont make em like this anymore…

Eating With Ziggy

What is your favorite Italian? The most confusing, challenging subject since sex education in High School. Not only I don’t really know, but I also don’t have a clue what is your definition of “Italian”. Italian can mean 21 different things, for the 21 very different regions including the Italian region of Staten Island. It could also be a steakhouse (Costata), a pizza joint (Marta, Don Antonio), or a fusiony place like Piora. Many of the so called “Italian” dont really have much in common. In fact whenever we talk to Italian chefs in Italy about what they do and where they eat in NYC, they often mention Italian restaurants. Because to a chef from Piedmont, a Roman restaurant may be just as foreign as Korean. Ok, maybe not. But to them there’s no such thing as Italian restaurants. They are just restaurants.

But if you would ask me which of our so called Italian…

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Bike, Eat, See NYC

Posted on May 15, 2016 by Ziggy

Well, Manhattan at least. With a little bit of Brooklyn. A couple of people asked me to write something like this, but classic me, went a little bit overboard. Pretty sure I got finger tendinitis.

This is a fun and safe way to spend a day in the city, for locals and tourists alike. All you need is $10 and a dream (a little lotto humor). The $10 is for a 24 hour Citibike pass you can purchase at any Citibike station. The dream is the dream you’ve been carrying with you ever since you’ve seen Home Alone as a young Glasgow lad. There’s only one little catch about those little blue bikes that many tourists miss somehow. You need to return them every 30 minutes. Even if it means getting a new code, and getting the same bike back right away (though new rule may require 2 minutes wait). This itinerary is devised to accommodate this, however if you miss your 30 minutes on a particular ride, you will only get charged $4 extra. Its keeping the bikes for much longer that could prove costly

I’ve been biking all over Manhattan and Brooklyn since the bike sharing program started, and I’m fairly familiar with all the danger involved, especially for folks unfamiliar with the city or any large city. Our bike system has improved by leaps and bounds over the years, but its not there yet. This is a relatively safe route that covers some of our best parks, and the west side of the island. I was tempted to include some of the east side as well but that side isnt as ‘connected’ as the west, and could prove challenging for some. Even the bridge I chose is a relatively safe one as far as getting in and out. Contrary to what you may think, I do care about my readers. But, I will also touch on the fun alternatives for the less novice.

You can obviously make whatever you want with this, but if you follow the entire plan, it will take much of the day if not all of it. There’s relaxation time, fun bathroom breaks, and great, wonderful food. The food options are fairly diverse to accommodate a wide range of tastes, but I will touch on alternatives in each stop. The tour starts on Columbus Circle and ends in Hell’s Kitchen on 9th and 44th

The color coded map that took me two days to manufacture is at the bottom. A Citibike app that will show you bike availability in real time will be useful. Also pay attention to stations that are full when returning a bike. Try to start before 9 if you can, and take it slow, this is not Amazing Race. Stay hungry, stay safe, and most importantly, stay hungry! Here we go…

Start in Columbus Circle, and get your 24 hour pass from any of the stations nearby.

Walk the bike to the main road of Central Park and turn right. Within minutes you will find yourself racing other bikers in the every morning Tour de Park. Making this short loop is not the best way to see the park obviously, but its one of my favorite morning rides. Unless you take lots of photos by Bethesda Fountain and Strawberry Fields, this loop around should take you about 10 minutes. If you opt to spend a lot of time to take pictures, get a new bike on Broadway and 60th.

Cross the street to Broadway/60th, head west on 60th, and turn left on Columbus (9th ave). If its Wednesday or Saturday you’ll see a Farmers Market between 56/57. Carefully turn right on 47th, and return the bike right before 10th, next to Hell’s Kitchen Park, the most popular park among families in HK. If by now this is not going well, and you realized you havent ridden a bike since you were about zero, there’s Hell’s Kitchen Dental around the corner.

Walk on 47th toward 11th until you reach Sullivan Street Bakery. This is perhaps New York’s premier Italian/Roman bakery, owned by celebrity baker/author Jim Lahey who went to Rome one day and discovered the art of baking. When I went to Rome for the first time, I discovered the art of a Strike. Try a Bomboloni (donut, or more like a Jewish Sofganyot), almond croissants, Canotto, or a simple focaccia, or pizza bianca with pecorino if they have. You may see trucks outside getting ready or returning from deliveries to some of our premier Italian restaurants like Maialino, Scarpetta, and great Italian stores like Di Palo’s. Sullivan Street Bakery

Sullivan’s quality means higher prices. A cheaper but nice alternative is The Jolly Goat Coffee on the same block. Great latte, and even a flat white for my ozzies.

Go up to 11th and turn left. On the next corner, you’ll see an Hell’s Kitchen institution with a twist, Landmark Tavern established in 1868. A popular speakeasy among actors during the prohibition (3rd floor became a speakeasy). For much of its days it was a waterfront property until the west side was expended. Its an Irish pub, with Irish music on some days, dating back to the Westies days, the Irish gang that ruled Hell’s Kitchen in the 70’s and 80′. All sorts of ghosts apparently reside on every floor – a confederate soldier who got stabbed and died in a bathtub, an Irish girl who died of Cholera, and actor George Raft. Come say hello!

Hop on a bike across the street in front of Daisy May’s BBQ (best BBQ in the Hell’s Kitchen) and head west toward the Intrepid. Cross the highway, take the mandatory selfie with the ship and head south… but before you do that, if we are still good with time, lets go the other way, North (not marked on the map) for a rather short distance. You will pass the city’s most ambitious, craziest project, dubbed the Hell’s Kitchen Pyramid, on 57th. This is actually my view from my office in Hell’s Kitchen. I had no idea what it was until I read about it on a flight somewhere. Bjarke Ingels is this Danish architect sensation, and this is his first project in NYC

Pass the floating sanitation dep’t on your left, and immediately after that you are in one of my favorite little parks in the entire city, Riverside Park South. There’s always some public art here, and even though there’s a highway nearby, it feels kinda serene. I like to come here early in the morning to read my emails and catch up with Kardashian news. BTW, inside one of those little parks you need to walk your bikes.

Head back south. Watch the tourists cross 42nd st, and try not to make fun of their choice of transportation. Right before Chelsea Piers and another beautiful park near pier 63, carefully turn left on 22nd… Park the bikes on 22nd right passed 10th. Walk to 23rd, turn left and take the stairs up to the The High Line. Chances are you already had The High Line in your plans, so this is a good day to do it. Soak in the atmosphere including the art and the fake monks while walking south toward Chelsea Market, our next stop. Try to rest those hips a little. Tip: Take a coin from the first fake monk you see, and pass it to the next one!

Exit the High Line on 16th st, and enter Chelsea Market from 10th. In a city filled with food halls, as packed as the place is, there’s nothing like the Chelsea Market. Walk around, try some Adobada tacos from Los Tacos #1, perhaps a ~~Pastrami sandwich~~ from Dickson’s (In preparation for this, I just had it after a year hiatus, and sadly its not the same, but the hot dogs are still good including the Mortadella dog. Simple, but solid). You can also try some Halvah (for free), including their homemade goat milk ice cream. Right behind it is the future home of Dizengoff, promising to be an excellent source for Hummus and other Israeli snacks. Might be open by the time you do this. Or you can splurge for a Chirashi bowl at Lobster Place, or a lobster roll, or a better lobster roll at Cull & Pistol. But for the purpose of this day, I suggest a taco or 2. Good time as any to go to the loo here ladies

Ok, enough with the crowds. Time to escape. 10th and 14th there’s another blue bike with your name on it (after you get and enter the proper code that is). We had south, but immediately north from that turn there’s Pier 57 which may look like a dump now, but its the future home of the much anticipated Anthony Bourdain market. Turn back and go south. On this short stretch, notice the bike/walk lane splits into 3, you need the middle lane.

You will shortly reach the West Village area and one of the nicest parks along the route. This is where I ask you now to do something in return for all this hard work (Ahh, a catch! but No, there’s no donations involved). Take a selfie or a picture, or ask someone to take a picture of you by The Apple and send it to me (losameach@gmail.com). The Apple, by the Hudson, and Charles st., “designed by Stephen Weiss, the late husband of world-renowned fashion designer Donna Karan, this bronze is part of his Larger than Life series and honors New York City by symbolizing the city’s heart and the core of life”. I’m not sure at this point what I’ll do with the pictures, maybe Tweet them, put them on my site, or may even appear on a Citibike site, but it will be fun if enough people do this

Turn on Christopher, and return the bike on Christopher between Greenwich and Hudson. Walk around one of the liveliest, most expensive, fake monk free areas of NYC, West Village. And yeah, if you need to visit Carrie Bradshaw’s House on Perry st, knock yourself out, I marked it for you. Our food stop here is a falafel plate at Taim. While this is not the best falafel in NYC (that honor I still give to Nish Nush), I really like this falafel plate to share. They give you 9 small ball (try the mix), along with hummus, Israeli salad, and pita with zaatar seasoning. Share one of those babies, complain to the cashier on their spelling of “S’chug” (they spell is S’rug, and it annoys me), and move on.

Give West Village a good hour or more. I marked Magnolia Bakery, and Joe’s pizza as well (latter in case you are not into falafel or simply want more). Washington Square Park means veering way East, but if you havent been and not planning to visit, this is an absolute must IMO, so I marked it as well just in case. Back to the bike on Christopher (unless you are much closer to another location)

Heading South again, you’ll be passing more parks, children playgrounds, dog playgrounds, skateboards, beautiful people, and beautiful skateboarders. Even New Jersey will start to look beautiful. You’ll be passing Tribeca, another great NYC neighborhood. Turn left carefully on warren (look back before you turn and use hand signals. You can return the bikes on Warren and Greenwich, and go up to Barnes & Noble to use their bathrooms, and browse their great Travel section just to show them that you are not just there to use their bathroom. Although for me it always means buying a new Italy book, so these bathrooms can be very expensive. And as per a comment from a trusted source, good place to refuel at Kaffe 1668 across on Greenwich.

Walk or bike (if you didnt stop for bathroom) on Warren toward City Hall Park and Brooklyn Bridge, our next destination. Here’s why I chose Brooklyn Bridge over the other bridges. Its Brooklyn Bridge! Any questions? Yes the other bridges are more bike friendly, and much less crowded, but BB is an icon, it yields better views, and although the other bridges are more bike friendly, BB is the easiest ride and easier to get to. Although if its me, I’d hop on Williamsburg bridge, head to Best Pizza in Williamsburg for a slice or 3, maybe Brooklyn Brewery and head back via the same bridge. Then get on the East River Promenade and ride it toward midtown. At some point the views of Midtown get quite spectacular, but the bike lanes dont continue much after 20th st or so, and you’d need to ride on the streets. Although, riding on 1st avenue is not that bad. If my wife can do it…

Another idea is to take Manhattan Bridge, bike to Wiliamsburg, and visit the ever changing Brooklyn Navy Yard (over 200 year old shipyard). Much of this route is fun and bike laned

But for the purpose of this post, we are heading back west to the Hudson, and drop the bikes near Chambers (in front of Stuyvesant High School, one of our specialized high schools for the academically gifted), or if you choose to walk from City Hall Park, its not very long. Next food stop is a doozy, a DOOZY I tell ya. Walk to The Grand Banks on Pier 25, an old wooden schooner parked from May to October. Indulge in some oysters, lobster roll, or anything else you feel like eating. This is a very cool spot to just unwind, and soak in the views. The views of downtown from pier 25 alone is reason enough to stop by

Alternatively, you also have the many options at Brookfield Place, and if you opted for a Joe’s slice instead of Taim, Nish Nush is your last chance at Falafel awesomeness.

And while in the area, check out the Irish Hunger Memorial, that so many visitors in that area easily overlook. – “The Memorial represents a rural Irish landscape with an abandoned stone cottage, stone walls, fallow potato fields and the flora on the north Connacht wetlands. It is both a metaphor for the Great Irish Famine and a reminder that hunger today is often the result of lack of access to land.” Its important to know what you are looking at in this case, and read about how the famine helped shape NYC. Ironically, this memorial was being built during the 9/11 attacks right across the highway.

Grab a bike on Chambers and head North. Fatigue may start kicking in at this point (I’ve already hospitalized twice while writing this) so I suggest dropping the bikes on Bank (cross highway on west 11th) and relax on the lawn by the Hudson. Maybe bringing a blanket on this day could prove handy. Then, perhaps one last bike ride to 46th and 11 for the final food stop of the day, Gotham West Market. Grab a burger at Genuine. Pig’s head sandwich at Cannibal, or my fave at the moment, the all day Breakfast Ramen at Ivan. Or whatever looks good really, as long as you finish with the slated crack caramel at Ample Hills. This is a perfect last stop to spend an hour or so.

Walk along 44th st, between 10th and 9th is one Hell’s Kitchen prettiest blocks. Pass by the Actor’s Studio, the most famous ‘church’ in the area, and if open, Domus, my favorite concept store in the area. Two women close each January, travel to some remote, usually third world destination, and bring back lots of interesting stuff. Check it out

Enjoy!

Ivan Ramen Breakfast Ramen

Categories: New York City | Tags: biking in NYC, Citibike, food, Travel | 8 Comments

Stay Tuned…

Posted on May 11, 2016 by Ziggy

Some posts are more fun than others. Some posts mothers are bigger.. oh wait, I’m thinking of a Smith’s song. The next post is taking me longer to write, because work, and stuff is in the way, but I think its going to be a good one, and useful for visitors and locals alike. But to make it so, I need more time, to perfect it, and even do a little more last minute research. Meanwhile, I leave you with a clue…

Brooklyn Spoke

Categories: New York City | 1 Comment

Ssam Bar Earns 3 More

Posted on April 19, 2016 by Ziggy

Ssam Bar - Skate

January 18th, 2018 Update:

Michelin season came and went, generating the usual fanfare and excitement, essential preventing most from noticing the more important stars being distributed. Around the same time, Momofuku Ssam Bar received 3 New Your Times Stars from Pete Wells, and only those in the restaurant industry got the memo. In fact I was told about it a few months ago by another chef when we talked about the all important subject of Skate (fish). The conversation led to Ssam Bar whose Skate helped earn the coveted stars.

The Skate is perhaps the biggest addition to the menu by Singapore born Max Ng who took over the helm last year. Its essentially a revolving door of Momofukus graduating from Ko to run the babies, Ssam, Nishi, Ma Peche, before moving on to other ventures around the world. You also get a sense of maturation these days, as the chief Fuku Mr Chang swaying from the idea of “if the food is good, they will come no matter what”, making Nishi and Ssam a lot more comfortable these days. Gone are the days of sharing a cramped communal table while studying the latest techniques in dish washing through a mountain of napkins.

Ssam Bar - Ham

And the food is of course the same old inventive awesomeness. Good enough in fact to earn three more hard earned stars from the chief editor of EWZ. Not sure what took me so long to finally try their Country Ham. Benton’s ham from Madisonville, TN was silky and salty alright, but the accompanied gravy with hints of espresso is enough reason to order a plate of Ham at Ssam Bar. Max’s additions like “Curry & Potatoes” with burrata, spinach, and Garam Marsala seasoning was more restrained for a Fuku establishment but still pleasant to the palate. When you finish it, you wish for some naan to properly scoop the leftovers. Roasted Cauliflower came surprisingly whole and flaky covered with just enough porky and lardo vinaigrette to keep it interesting. The Fried Sunchokes with eggs was a little bit more dull in comparison.

And then came the main events. The off menu rice cakes with the spicy ragu. The rice cakes got crunchier, and the ragu less spicy over the years, but this is still a must order. The grilled Flatiron was cooked to medium rare perfection, and probably the star with the family. They liked it more than the Skate. It arrived sitting on a banana leaf covered with shrimp Belacan, a funky fermented Malaysian shrimp paste. A little too much funk for my women, so I was enjoying most of it by myself. The smell, unlike from similar pastes like XO, is slightly off-putting, but the flavors are there. Although I found better results when combining the Skate meat with the porky ragu from the rice cakes. I’m ready for my Ko internship.

No dessert on this one since we are eating with the girls a mile within Spot Dessert Bar.

Ssam Bar Porgy

April 19, 2016 Post:

Servers have a tough job. We learn more and more the more we dine. For example, ever wonder when servers are asked “what’s good here”, they often stumble or tell you to get the most expensive dish. The correct answer is actually the stumble, usually indicative of the “if its not good, it wouldnt be on the menu”. But often enough, the best dish is in fact its most expensive. Whether its the use of expensive ingredients, popularity, labor intensive, the reasons are numerous. Servers are not stupid. They already know all about the “Oh, he’s probably saying that to get a bigger tip”, and all the rest of them. Which is yet another reason for the hesitations

At the last meal at Momofuku Ssam Bar I didnt ask the server “what’s good here” because I already had a good idea from previous visits, and Chowhound chatter. The only questions I asked the server centered around the most expensive dish, the whole boneless Porgy. “How were the bones removed”, “What’s in the green sauce”, “where did the Porgy come from”, “What was his name”. An instant classic that blew us away like no other whole fish before.

This Long Island sound Porgy shows up in all her glory, with head and teeth and all. Except for the main bone that was surgically removed. The fish is dressed with the momofuku signature ginger scallion sauce which made Mrs Z take note. One bite, and you can tell this is not your average grilled branzino. Another bite and its an entire Havah Nagilla rendition in your mouth. By the 5th bite, you want to run around with scissors, naked. And then at around the 5th inning, you feel you must try the accompanied lettuce, and tortillas to make fish wraps. You experiment by adding some pickled bean sprouts, some cabbage, and creme fraiche, and you are suddenly the world’s greatest fish taco maker. The fish comes with all these goodies in “Ssam” style (“Ssam” essentially means everything you need to make wraps)

The Porgy and the rest of the meal help cement this one, not only as part the Z-List, but as one of my favorite restaurants in NYC. Maybe top 5. The signature steamed buns are perhaps better then Ippudo’s me thinks now (making a historic change of mind). The spicy sausage with rice cakes is another signature that continues to please. The spring menu featuring the scrumptious Broccolini with thinly sliced beef tongue and egg is adds more joy. The Porgy is $42 but can easily feed two. Add the rice cakes, pork buns, Broccolini, and you got yourself a great meal for under $150. The only forgettable dish this time was the Octopus salad. No much wrong there, just average octopus

The only thing I have to mention here is that Ssam Bar will not win any comfort awards, especially if you are two people. You will sit at a long communal table either facing workers cleaning glasses or facing each other next to other diners. And oooh boy the place can get loud. But we are in it for the food, and as long as no one is poking me or runs around naked with scissors, we’ll keep coming for that Porgy

Ssam Bar
207 2nd Ave (East Village)
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Country Ham, Max’s Curry & Potatoes, Roasted Cauliflower, Pork Buns, Flatiron, Skate, Whole Roasted Fish Ssam, Rice Cakes

Ssam Bar - Flatiron

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: Best Fish in NYC, food, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, restaurants, Ssam Bar, Travel | 3 Comments

Fair Weather Bushwick – Breaking Bad

Posted on April 15, 2016 by Ziggy

No, we didnt get lost trying to get back to Roberta’s, Bushwick’s proud Z-List representative. And no, we dont have a new-found graffiti fetish, although dont mind it so much if striking enough. On average we visit Florida more often than this up and coming hipsterhood, but we are finding more and more reasons to change that. This time, the reason was to check out a little Coffee shop that’s not so little and not so coffee shop anymore. A full transformation from hipster coffee and wifi, to a full blown mature dining spot with weekly tasting, supper club style. Instead of staring at their laptop, locals will now converse with other humans. An experimental concept that is so Bushwick.

Fair Weather Bushwick, making that unflinching transition at the beginning of the year, is like a breath of fresh air to a neighborhood in dire need of such spots. Led by John Creger, fresh from cheese mecca Artisanal, FWB (sounds like a radio station) offers brunch, dinner seven days a week, and the weekly $65 ten courser I will tell you about shortly. I believe this is the first time I wasnt quite sure about what to wear to a restaurant in NYC. A pricey tasting menu, in Bushwick! Talking about getting caught between a rock and a hard place. Like when you feel the need to go take a leak at 9 pm, an hour or two before bed time. You missed your 8 pm, and you are too early for the pre-bedtime stop, strategically trying to avoid the dreadful 3 am wake up call. Do you hold it in for another hour, or risk it?

With that said, even a proper schedule didnt stop a 2 am wakeup call this time, after John Creger’s crafty beer pairing that night. The beer just kept flowing and flowing. John Creger has been around. I’m not so sure I grabbed the most desirable picture of him (like the brainchild of Marilyn Manson and Hitler). Quite possibly just an off hair day, or just another day at the offices at Sleep No More where he was head chef. After stints at Le Cirque, Gradisca, Artisanal, and a cameo on Food Network’s Chopped, Creger is now turning heads in little, obscure Fair Weather Bushwick. The first thing I noticed when I walked in is a smiling happy chef. Happy chef normally translates to happy Ziggy. Normally.

This was the first tasting of the new spring menu (Spring is here apparently. Never got the memo). The atmosphere was that of a supper club dinner, featuring a communal table and an open kitchen. Creger came out 15 times to explain every beer, and every dish in Slow Food style (“The ramps came from an upstate farm ran by runaway Russian brides”). All 10 dishes were plated Ko-esque style so you I couldnt help but compare this one to much pricier tastings. An early highlight, a beet course with spiced pumpkin seeds and dehydrated beets set the tone. There were carrots, slow roasted, sitting on Zatar spiced yogurt, and Fenugreek seeds. “The carrots taste very different than carrots at home” she said. “Thats because these taste like carrots”. And there wouldnt be spring tasting without spring peas. Here, Creger serves a crispy Prosciutto decorated chilled soup that delivers an initial spring pea punch and then settles down nicely.

The vegetable heavy menu featured vegetables (duh!) that came alive by use of mild exotic spices, and herb purees. Creger is like a free bird now, dishing out playful, bright plates, that are attractive to the ~~camera~~ eye, but does not leave the other senses in the dark. Although my taste sense could have used a few more bay scallops in one of the only protein plates. The two dessert courses, in particular a Matcha Creme Brulee with ginger and chocolate mint was a very solid finisher.

Without offending our close friends, I have a new-found appreciation for dining with strangers. We sat next to a fun, young doctor couple who had stories to tell, and Achilles Tendon advice to share. At some point, toward the end of the meal (I would never do it at the beginning), I felt the urge to put my left foot on the table for a free (presumably) checkup, but it didnt seem appropriate at that moment. A fun evening to say the least, and perhaps now we’ll have to make it to Bushwick more often than Florida

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: Bushwick Dining, Fair Weather Bushwick, Farm to Table Bushwick, food, John Creger, Travel | 1 Comment

The Only Three Food Courts You Need to Know About

Posted on April 10, 2016 by Ziggy

Gotham West Market

Pretty much overnight, food courts in NYC went from a concept to “What, another one? We need another food court like I need a pimple in my tuches”. Food courts, food halls, semi-annual festivals like Madison Square Eats have become part of us, like bagels, and pizza rats. It almost seems like a new one opens every week, and one can easily lose track of openings just like with new restaurants these days. At some point you just stop and ask yourself, how many more Luke Lobsters and Mighty Quinn’s does this city really needs. Some of them start to look the same, and one of them even invited me for a free tour and tasting. I get such invites on a weekly basis and its either something I’m not interested in, or in Staten Island. Ziggy will not be bought. PERIOD! Unless you invite me to one of these three.

Chelsea Market

CM is busy, touristy, perhaps the most crowded food hall out there, and I cant get enough of it. I bike there for lunch more often than some of the places by my work I can walk to. And, yeah, you guessed it, I dont go there for its history. The vendor list is incredibly impressive, and for the most part unique to Chelsea Market. A high quality butcher, An “A” List Taco joint, fresh seafood, top notch gelato, Halvah, and the soon to be best hummus in NYC, Dizengoff, which will open any day now, are just some examples. Its unlike any market in the world, so comparing it to something like Venice, Barcelona, Mahane Yehuda markets is silly. Some may even suggest its not much of a market, but a collection of high quality food purveyors, but there’s definitely enough market in it. In fact one of the things I love about CM is that some of the vendors source their stuff directly from next door. Cull & Pistol gets their seafood from sister Lobster Place, while Creamline (great turkey burger) gets their meat from Dickson’s Farmstand next door. If you are a food enthusiast (well. you are reading this blog post) you owe it to yourself to stop by. But dont do it when you tired or stuffed. Many tourists just walk the main isle, leave the other door and then ask whats the big deal about this place. Stay for a little bit, explore, and meet some of the vendors, like Rachel from Seed + Mill. Tell her Ziggy sent ya.

Eataly

Yeah, nothing shocking about any of these picks. Long time readers already know that Ziggy hearts Eataly. Unlike, say Little Italy, Eataly is super touristy for good reason. And like Chelsea Market, yes, there’s a good chance that a large Polish man will step on your foot when you least expect. But do you know who especially likes Eataly, that may come as a surprise? Italians. Italians who appreciate quality, and can even find items that are not easily available back home. Whether we go for a little shopping, Nutella Bar, or have a snack at one of its restaurants, we cant get enough of it. I usually have a small mental laundry list of stuff that we “need” like Italian craft beer, Venchi chocolates, fresh pasta like the Agnolotti dal Plin, sauces, cookies, and whatever else catches my eye on each visit. Yes, the stuff is expensive, and I dont shop there on a monthly basis. But cheaper than this is, well, essentially “Stop and Shop”. Quality and imports come with a price tag. Another reason for tourists to come to Eataly is the location. Your attraction heavy guide book may not tell you that Madison Square Park and its surroundings is a must see, especially during squirrel season.

Gotham West Market

While I was waiting for my Steak Barbacao bowl at Choza the other day, I bumped into something I dont see very often at GWM… Tourists. The process of ordering anything at Choza for tourists can be as complicated as our current presidential race, so I was happy to put my Matt Murdock mask on and step in to help. GWM, simply put, is one of the best things to ever happen in Hell’s Kitchen, and one of its main advantages and what separates it from the pack is that its out of the main tourist route. Other than the Intrepid nearby I cant think of any reasons why tourists would come here. Maybe check out our incredible lineup of auto dealerships? GWM is also a very different food court. Its compact, with only 8 or so vendors, and it has more of a neighborhood feel than other food courts. Think of it as one large restaurant with 8 different menus to choose from, where your kids and husbands can run around freely. You can order something at one vendor and eat it at the counter of the next. The funky Avroko design of the place may be reason enough to stop by for some, but I personally go for, you know, the food.

Categories: Chelsea, Gramercy, Flatiron, Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Chelsea Market, eataly, food, Gotham West Market, NYC Food Courts, NYC Food Halls, Travel | Leave a comment

Momofuku Ko – Son of David

Posted on April 8, 2016 by Ziggy

In preparation for Passover, a not quite oldie, but goodie

Eating With Ziggy

On this fine second Seder eve, the beginning of Nutella week (I only eat Nutella with Matzah), I’ll start with a question I’ve been asked many time. How can Jesus be the son of David! Jesus was born 1000 years after David, and yet he is repeatedly described in the new testament as the Son of David. Was David the first ever sperm donor? I didn’t think so. Mmm, a moment of silence as I reflect on the fact that I haven’t and most likely never will produce sons. I get this moment every now and then, bare with me. But the answer to our questions is that its just a Messianic title, like “Son of god”. Jesus, born in the city of David, Bethlehem, was the long awaited Messiah, deliverer, the fulfillment of the Old Testament prophecies.

Coincidentally (or not) “Ko” means “Son of” in Japanese, and Momofuku Ko is the son of David Chang, the long awaited Messiah that came…

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Categories: New York City | Leave a comment

The Truth About Tipping – And Why it Needs to Go

Posted on April 4, 2016 by Ziggy

Tip Free Pasquale Jones

From EWZ Editorial:

Yes, I actually have nothing to write about. Other than a great meal at Biang! with new Chowhound friends, it was sort of a meh week that included lunch at the hottest restaurant in NYC at the moment (High Street on Hudson). I do have various post ideas at the moment, but not about individual restaurants. And I will need another visit to Biang! to write about it.

Tipping in NYC can be not only confusing, but a highly debated subject even among locals. This is gonna be short and painless, but I will start by offering a quick guide to tipping in NYC, which I mentioned before

1. If the service has been exceptional – Tip 20% (on top of the tax, before tax, is up to you. We tip on top)

2. If the service has been a little less than stellar. Decent, but room for improvement – Tip 20%

3. If your water hasn’t been filled, your food hasn’t arrived on a timely basis, your burger temperature was not up to par, and no one asked you if you like your food – Tip 20%

4. If your server made numerous errors with your order, hasn’t smiled the entire time, and looks rather stressed out – Tip 20%

5. If the server along with another server collaborate to follow you to the bathroom, blindfold and kidnap you via the back alley, lock you in an apartment for 15 days and let you watch nothing but Full House reruns before leaving you in the middle of a bear infested forest naked and afraid – Tip 15%. Yes, this is where I draw the line

The truth about tipping is that over the years it has become way too automatic to maintain its usefulness. Good service, bad service, decent service, there’s no such thing anymore. There used to be a time when you dealt with only one staff member who wasnt extremely busy, and your enjoyment of the meal was essentially determined by what that waiter had for breakfast that morning. In today’s world of Yelp, and meshugenah high rents, in order to survive, restaurants have evolved into a highly efficient well oiled machines. By the end of your meal you either pretty much have met the entire staff, or your single waiter had a ton of help. I once walked into Annabel, a pizza joint in Hell’s Kitchen, just when they opened. The two owners sat in the front quietly playing on their phones, while a staff of about 10 had an intense meeting in the back led by a very intense manager. When the meeting ended, I quickly became the center of attention. Smiles, and friendliness galore even at a casual neighborhood bar/pizza. The owners expect efficiency, and the employees expected to respond. Otherwise, Yelp, Trip Advisor, high rents will make you pay dearly. The incentive nowadays is to keep your job, not the tip.

Many of those factors over the years contributed to the tip becoming automatic, but none of them contribute as much as experience. When you dine out often, you eventually get to understand restaurants – how they operate, and what should be expected where. You eventually begin to understand that the waiter is not the one to blame for much of the things that go wrong, even when it clearly looks like his/her fault. At the Spotted Pig, service was noticeably off one day, until I realized the waitress was working her ass off, covering for someone who was coming late. In addition, after some time, you eventually begin to stop analyzing things, shrug it off, and file errors under “human nature”. If you make a mistake at your line of work, does your salary get reduced? And did I mention that tips are essentially the waiter’s salary? Minimum wage for tipped workers in NYC will increase to $7.50 by next year. Every tipping argument should start with this.

This automatic tipping culture, coupled with our tipping laws and regulations has also greatly tipped the balance between cooks and waiters. Its not that waiters are making too much money. Its that cooks are not making enough. Now that its gotten much harder to find good cooks as a result, Danny Meyer and many more are finally waking up and getting rid of tipping altogether. Not that the imbalance made any sense before the problems started kicking in. Imagine an airline where the flight attendants make more than the pilots.

Coincidentally, Biang! where I just dined with new Chowhound friends, is the latest to go tip free. If not for our tipping culture, after dining there, one could wonder why tips were needed there in the first place. I doubt any will notice a difference in service at a place like this, with a line out the door in tourist free East Village. I also had zero service issues at Bruno Pizza (20% admin charge), Nishi, and Pasquale Jones, all three opened with a no tipping policy in the past year. At long timer Annisa, I cant fathom a different experience after they’ve gone tip free. Danny Meyer, much loved and respected by his employees is moving all his establishments to this system.

So remember kids, tip 20% no matter what for the time being. But The Times They are a Changin’, and its time to join the rest of the world, and eliminate tipping.

Categories: New York City | Tags: food, tipping, Tipping in NYC, Travel | 4 Comments

New York City

Chelsea Market

Eataly

Gotham West Market

The places