Author Archives: Ziggy

Gato – Pussy Galore

Gato barOne of those meals that stays with you for a few days.  You think about it when you have your boring scrambled eggs in the morning, and your gloomy salad with kale for lunch a couple of days later.  All while you sit there massaging your cat, with soft classical music in the background, sporting a scar.  That’s how I pictured Bobby Flay in his new Mediterranean hot spot in NOHO (cat in Spanish) named right after a cat went between his legs while waiting for the real estate broker.  But instead of sitting holding a cat, he was in the kitchen doing his thing.

Gato loungeIn a city packed with celebrity spots, one does not need to eat in one to have a great meal, and a great meal is certainly far from a guarantee.  But this was one of the most enjoyable meals in recent memory (well, 3 months is just about as far as I can go these days — thankfully I have this blog to remind me).  With the “5:30 or 10” hotness at the moment, I opted for the senior citizen slot of 5:30.   The hostess seemed a little puzzled when I asked if “We are team #1” much to the horror of my kids.  Perhaps to clarify the “Amazing Race” reference, I should invest in one of those Travelocity gnomes (though the dude is scarier than some people I know without makeup)

The space is quite striking.  It has a spacious, warehousy, rustic, modern but casual feel, with no neighbor in sight.  A rarity these days.  Though they are taking it slow at the moment and not trying to fill the room.  Some prefer to wait until the establishment settles down into a comfortable groove, but not Ziggy.  Bring on the uncomfortable groove.  With the entire town watching they simply can not afford to make a mistake.  Flay is in the kitchen even on a Sunday night. A slew of hostesses, 3 of which helped with our coats.  Employees outnumbering guests roughly 3 to 1.  The kids had a blast counting the number of times their water was filled (12 times, mostly when it was above 3/4 full).  Overall however, no issues whatsoever.

Gato - Small platesDrinks — Wife enjoyed the Bolo Sangria while my Negroni was spot on.

Bar menu — Pick 3 for $17.  The 11 layer scalloped potato and the duck liver were quite delectable, but the Eggplant with Manchego and Oregano solidly triumphed above the rest.

Gato - duck liverAppetizers– Expertly cooked oven roasted Shrimp with Diavolo oil, garlic chips and chile that provided a nice punch.  A notch above the average Gambas dish at a tapas joint near you.  Octopus was quite scrumptious and when you get it as tender as this, its most enjoyable.  The pungent green pepper and salty bacon bits just added to the joy.  Pizza with lamb sausage was just a good pizza with lamb sausage, missing the drama of the other dishes.  Perhaps losing to Giove is still not sitting well with Flay.  Dish of the day nominee… Scrambled Eggs! A Revelation! Almond Romesco (spanish red pepper sauce), Boucheron cheese, super fluffy eggs… what a combo. I suggest trying this without the accompanying oily tomato toasts which have no business being there except to complete the otherwise naked dish

Gato - octopusMains — Crab Risotto (enlarged app) was original and exceptional.  Mushroom and Kale paella with egg and artichokes was a glorious combination of flavors and textures, especially once you mix the sticky “Socarrat” from the bottom and the egg.  The Halibut was one of the better “white fish with red broth” dishes I’ve had, all due to the addictive saffron tomato sauce with mint and couscous and a perfectly cooked fish.

Gato - halibutDessert —Espresso soaked bread pudding – somewhat flat, more like a weak tiramisu.  Not gonna win any awards in NOLA.  Chocolate Crema Catalana with hazelnut was much more like it.  Like a sick chocolate hazelnut Creme Brulee with that toasty crust and richness beneath.  Complimentary Sherry, and exceptionally fresh Biscotti capped off this awe-inspiring meal.  I’m a fan!

Gato

324 Lafayette St

$$$$

Recommended Dishes – Eggplant (bar menu), Shrimp, Scrambled Eggs, Octopus, Crab Risotto, Halibut, Mushroom and Kale paella, Chocolate Crema Catalana

Gato Gato - lamb pizza Gato - eggs Gato - Shrimp Gato - Chocolate Gato - paella Gato up

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Best Dishes in Hell – Round One

Little Chef - Egg BowlDear readers, it is with extreme pleasure and slight gastro discomfort that I welcome you to the first installment of Best Dishes in Hell, where we feature 5 dishes to target in this little foodie heaven I like to call Hell’s Kitchen.  Each of these bites is guaranteed to put a smile on your face and put all your troubles behind.  Or not!

Bourekas at Gazala’s Place – Bourekas, or Bourek is something I ate often as a child, but not really by choice.  I hated it!  So if I list a Bourekas in this space, it can only mean that this is not your ordinary Bourekas.  Your choices are normally Feta with spinach or Feta with sun-dried tomatoes.  I prefer the latter.  One bite of that beast to feel that explosive, rich, flaky goodness and you’ll understand why.  And did I mention that it comes with a side of my favorite Hummus in the city.

Gazala'a Place BourekasEgg Bowl at Little Chef – The winter version below, while the regular version is pictured on top.  Health food that I would gladly go out of my way for, but luckily I dont need to as I work 12.3 minutes from Gotham West Market (I timed it).  The current version features porky cranberry beans, salsa rojas (roasted red salsa), and just about the sickest breadcrumbs on the planet.  Same breadcrumbs featured in the non-wintery bowl which includes fresh greens and assorted roasted veggies like broccoli and potatoes.  Glorious stuff my friends

Little Chef Egg Bowl WinterSausage Pizza at Capizzi – Avid readers of EWZ already know that there’s no reason to cross bridges and tunnels for pizza.  However, very few places in the city (Manhattan) have that homey pizza parlor feel that is very common in Brooklyn and Staten Island.  Capizzi tucked away in “Downtown Hell’s Kitchen” got it and more.  This pie is a sausage fest of deep flavors made from fresh ingredients cooked in a wood fired oven.  Not quite NY style pizza, and not quite Naples style, but very NYC

CapizziAkamaru Modern at Ippudo – A recent article by the NYT reaffirms the belief that Hell’s Kitchen is a ramen force to be reckon with.  And in the middle of this ramen revolution is this super popular Ippudo branch.  Start with their terrific smooth pork buns and move on to the Akamaru, a complex porky broth and just about as addictive as Ramen gets in NYC

Ippudo - AkamaruCanotto at Sullivan Street Bakery – Love at first bite.  Sometimes its slightly off, but for the most part its pastry perfection.  Brioche filled with mascarpone, berries, topped with crumbs and some salt.  What I love about this is that every bite is different.  On one bite you taste chewy, cheesy, salty, next is crunchy, fruity, and so on

Sullivan St Canotto Sullivan St - Canotto

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Mighty Quinn’s – A Man and his Bone

Mighty Quinn's BrisketStatue of Liberty, Empire State Building, the Naked Cowboy, the woman on the C line that forgets her pants sometimes, Brontosaurus Rib at Mighty Quinn’s.  Things that remind you that you are not in Keukenhof anymore.  This is America, where you American food, cooked by Americans, in America!  The BBQ renaissance in NYC is in full force.  You simply can no longer say that there’s no good BBQ in NYC.  Try saying it… See?  You cant!

At first you feel like you need some sort of a game plan on how to share this massiveness of a beef bone.  But after a quick poke, no knives, and no archers needed.  A simple fork attack will do for this super delicate, juicy piece of meat.  At BBQ joints I normally pass on beef ribs in favor of the pig, but here my gut told me I had to fork in the $23 for this bone (by gut I mean I’ve been reading and hearing about it for a while) and the gut was right.

Mighty Quinn's Beef Rib

Second prize went to the glorious pulled pork which we already tasted in the Dumbo Smorgasburg.  The carver splashes their own BBQ sauce at the cafeteria like counter to give it that special depth of flavor.  Perhaps the pulled pork to beat in NYC

The spare ribs were disappointing in the sense that I only got to try one.  Why oh why they did not become vegetarian, like the cool Manhattan kids.  While missing the wow factor of its cousins, the rib was exceptional.  A delicate crust that lets the tender meat do the talking.  The moist Brisket, with all its fatty glory did not disappoint as well

Mighty Quinn's - Ribs

This is not the place to discount the sides.  They may look like Boston Market, but taste like Per Se.  Did you know there’s no Boston Market in Boston (other than one perhaps)?  Yes, you’ve been living a lie.  Who doesn’t like sweet potatoes? Me!  Not a fan.  But add some pecans and maple syrup and you got yourself a scrumptious little side.  The Edamame and pea salad was as good as Edamame and sweet peas can potentially get.

Mighty Quinn’s, possibly the city’s best all around BBQ, represents everything I love about eating in the East Village.  Its like a giant Smorgasbord of artisanal goodies.  Where else can you have ribs, Thai, a gay bar and Hamantash (March mean Hamantash season) at Moishe’s all right next to each other.

Mighty Quinn’s

103 2nd Ave

Mighty Quinn's Trays Mighty Quinn's Ribs Mighty Quinn's Mighty Quinn's Sauce

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Restaurant Week is Over. Here’s What You Missed

photo (7)1) A Slew of participants.  None of which are the hottest/trendiest places at the moment.  Mostly establishments that can use more bodies during Monday-Friday.

2) Menus designed for restaurant week.  A $25 lunch menu that normally includes a minuscule or none inspiring appetizer like the ever so trendy kale soup.  A main entree that is either off the regular menu, a smaller version of the regular menu item, or a new cheap invention.  You certainly did not miss the signature dishes, or the dishes that truly define the participant establishments

3) Dessert.  Seriously, who orders dessert during lunch anymore in NYC other than the business lunchers or “Ladies Who Lunch”.  At the end of the day, once you calculate all you had versus what the regular menu offers, you wind up with a free dessert

4) Cold Service.  Yes this will vary from place to place and certainly debatable I suppose.  But when you are suddenly staring at a full house filled with diners taking advantage of this opportunity what you get is servers treating you like you are part of this RW herd.  At one establishment a server asked me in a thick French accent “How was you lunch”, and proceeded to turn around before I completed my response.  Clearly saying “I was trained to ask you people questions but I dont really care about what you have to say”.  At another place I was given the first course 20 seconds after I got the bread basket (with dip), and I was given the second course 15 mins into the meal.  Herd mentality goes both ways.  The kittens are shown in, and then out as quickly as possible.

5)  Salmon

6) Absolutely Nothing!

You missed nothing.  Consider this quote from the great David Chang who prior to creating his empire worked in many places that participated in RW.  “You just have to cook like a maniac. Cooks are creatures of habit all of a sudden your room’s full, and you have bunch of people that want stuff well done. It’s not what you want to be doing.”Most chefs will tell you that it’s great. I guarantee you there’s not one cook that is excited about restaurant week.”  Here’s the Source.  I believe him.

Restaurants are in the business of making money.  Since Restaurants Week is now twice a year, and more than one week sometimes, the various establishments cant afford to lose much on these deals.  Instead of trying to impress the average RW goer and convince folks to come back, I gather the average participant views the goer as someone who most likely not come back any time soon.  So lets make a quick buck.

Of course with so many participants there are bound to be exceptions.  The Dutch RW menu allows you to order anything from the full menu.  Maialino’s RW menu is a combination of items from the regular menu.  But in order to digest all the RW menus for the purpose of figuring out what is worth it and whats not, you need to hire an assistant.

Think of it as a 10% off sweater sale at Bloomingdales where sweaters are normally marked up significantly higher than the clothing store you frequent.  Or better yet, a free dessert.  To truly experience those establishments I suggest doing so during regular none RW times, and order from the menu that made them who they are.

Categories: New York City | Tags: , , , , | 3 Comments

TCI – 7 Top Bites

Lupo Dessert

As published in the current issue of WhereWhenHow

Living in NYC, trying to keep up with the ever so changing dining scene can be quite a challenge.  A challenge to avoid according to my Gastroenterologist and Accountant (Its the same person).  As a visitor, I’m finding a similar challenge in the island I like to call Providenciales!  Rotating chefs, new local spots, new local gatherings (fish fry), and yet another new Italian (yes please) are just some of the exciting changes as of late.  More choices normally result in a higher bar.  A higher bar means a well fed, happier consumer.  Here are 7 dishes that made us happy during the last trip.

B-52s rolls at Sora.  Fresh Tuna? check.  Avocado? check.  Rice Krispies? Yummo!  (It appears that the blogger community adopted “Yummo” as the new “Yummy” which reached its expiration date).  This was a delicious little snack we shared with our Kite Boarding meshugenahs friends.  The name most likely derived  from when you pick it up with your chopsticks, it will explode and dirty your pants.  When you pick it up with a fork however, it will stain your shirt.. and dirty your pants.  I later found out the dish was invented by the owner of a local Laundromat.

B-52s rolls at Sora

Conch Salad at Bugaloos.  This is one of those dishes that you know will be good as soon as it arrives.  Fresh, plentiful, tender conch that you just cant stop chowing.  No surprises here.  Unlike the surprise my 11 year old got the other day when her beloved Tootsie Role Industries stock sank as part of her school stock market game.  “But daddy, its Tootsie Role!  Who doesnt love Tootsie Role?”  Same people who love Airplane over Top Secret kid.  Enemies of America!

Bugaloos - Conch Salad

Lobster Risotto With Shiitake at Seaside Café.  Probably the most palatable Risotto we’ve had since the truffled beauty we had in Riva Del Garda, Italy (Show off!).  Rich, perfectly creamy, perfectly seasoned awesomeness that comes in one size: “Grande” (Read “American”, for Americans, in America.  Ok, not quite America but you know what I mean.  It just sounds more convincing like that)

Seaside - risotto

Homemade Troccoli “alla Chitarra” with Octopus at Caicos Cafe.  Jimmy Hendrix couldn’t play a sweeter tune.  Chef “Mad Max” utilizes all sorts of tools in this one including a guitar-like instrument (Chitarra) that he presses against the dough sheet.  The result is Pici-like (Tuscan pasta), wonderfully chewy, al dente goodness.  Add a super tender South Caicos caught octopus (another tool used to tenderize the Octopus), peas, roasted tomatoes, and basil (all cooked in the octopus own juices), and you have another Caicos Café classic.

Caicos Cafe - Troccoli

Grilled Lobster at Coco Bistro.  No wonder everyone looks happy at Provo’s most popular dining spot.  The “it’s a small world” ride of Provo continues to shine and dish out goodies such as this that just makes people weep with joy.  Caribbean Lobsta! – buttery, sweet, tender, with no hint of dryness.  Almost made me forget about Maine Lobster.  Almost!  Did you know that the most important thing when eating animal testicles is freshness?  I had no idea.  And I should probably stop watching Andrew Zimmern while writing this  stuff (PS Mrs Ziggy, in case I forget we need to get a new remote control.  And while you at it check with the butcher about fresh testicles.  Emu if possible.. those look nice)

Courtesy of Brilliant Studios

Courtesy of Brilliant Studios

Goat Curry at Jerkey’s.  Unless you can find a microwave at the old Sailing Paradise location, consider the still colorful tables of new Jerkey’s.  Succulent, mouthwatering, bonier than Sara Jessica Parker goat goodness.  We simply could not get enough of this dish, and the fantastic Jerk Chicken which could have easily been on this list instead.  A great Provo winter dish when average temps drop from 85°F  to 83°F.  Its 9°F here in NYC at the time of this writing.  You know its cold when your car is more Jewish than you, courtesy of a white yarmulke (sheet of snow) on its roof.

Jerkies - Goat Curry

Tiramisu and Panna Cotta with Balsamic reduction at Lupo (Top).  A heavenly finish!  May possibly be the best Tiramisu I’ve had on the island.  The Panna Cotta with the pungent balsamic was very unique and tasty indeed.  What a duo!  Update on our cold front.  Today, NYC is covered with ice.  i.e.  The annual “Sue Your Neighbor Day”.

Thats all I got folks… gotta run to court… er walk slowly with crutches.  Stay Hungry my friends!

Categories: Turks and Caicos | Tags: , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Sleep No More – Random Thoughts

An oldie but goodie post…

Ziggy's avatarEating With Ziggy

Sleep No More is a unique NYC theatre experience set in a so-called “abandoned” hotel called the McKittrick Hotel.  Instead of watching a play unfold you run around up and down stairs wearing a mask following characters from room to room and watch various dream-like sequences of Shakespeare’s Macbeth.  I will not bore you with any specific details but instead I WILL bore you with various Random Thoughts I had from scene to scene…

Scene 1 – Well, this is interesting

Scene 2 – I wonder who wore the mask before me

Scene 3 – what’s up with the mad rush. Joining the mad rush. Losing the mad rush after the couple before us exited prematurely

Scene 4 – I can’t breath through the mask and I’m starting to sweat. almost profusely

Scene 5 – where did I park my car

Scene 6 – I swear to god if this woman…

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Categories: New York City | Leave a comment

Chelsea Market – 10 Great Eats

Cull and PistolEver since god invented the CitiBike, I’ve been spending more time chowing in ultra touristy Chelsea Market.  A pleasant 15 minute ride there, and a strenuous 25 minute ride back on a gassy full stomach.  Navigating through the tourists at the market during lunch time should be an Olympic event.  The Chelsea Slalom.  Opening the door without letting an entire large polish group in and losing your family as a result somehow requires an online course.  With that said, unlike most touristy spots in NYC (e.g. Little Italy, Times Square, Restaurant Row) there’s good food to be had here.

Chelsea Market Los Tacos

Chelsea Market is a little misunderstood.   Since this is by far New York’s most famous “Market”, many avid tourists come here expecting a market similar to the Boqueria in Barcelona or Mahane Yehuda in Jerusalem.  Chelsea Market is nothing like it.  Its indoors, not really ingredient heavy, but more a of a collection of unique restaurants and food purveyors.  And just like Eataly, Chelsea Market requires some exploring in order to get it, and avoid disappointment.

Adobada Tacos at Los Tacos #1 – The more I eat those little porky things the more I like them.  Tacos on the small side when you compare to what you get at a NYC bodega, but they are well marinated and deadly.  I often see tourists and locals fill the tacos with salsa and all the other free goodies available on the counter, ever so slowly killing the flavors.  Let the meat do the talking guys.Los Tacos

Pastrami Sandwich at Dickson’s – These guys, who look mostly like Boston Bruins enforcers, dont mess around with their meats.  Top quality stuff is sourced directly from a few hand picked local farms, enabling Dickson’s to produce tasty sausages, hot dogs (great dogs here) and this pastrami sandwich with Apricot Chutney.  This is not your average pastrami.  Bright, peppery, well marbled, fatty in all the right places.  Like slow dancing with your mother in law.Dicksons pastrami

Cappelletti al Prosciutto at Giovanni Rana – Fresh pasta galore at this Verona import.   After trying an array of pastas here (including a surprisingly flavorless Carbonara) I would stick to what they do best;  Ravioli/Tortellini, and the rest of the ravioli familia.  The “little hat” shaped Cappelletti is packed with flavorful, salty, porky goodnessGiovanni Rana

Chirashi Bowl at Lobster Place – Tourists flock to LP for the lobster, not realizing the tremendous sushi strength here.  One of the best ways to sample the fresh seafood at LP is via the Chirashi, a rice bowl topped with chef selected fresh raw goodness.  Other than the somewhat soggy octopus this thing simply rocked.  As long as you dont mind splurging the full $24 for the full bowl if sitting at the counter

Lobster Place Chirashi

Peppercorn Catfish at Num Pang.  Love me some good fish sandwich.  Something you cant easily find in NYC.  This is a fine combination of flaky catfish with mild pleasant heat, fresh veggies, and crispy baguette-like bread adding to a mighty fine Vietnamese Banh Mi resemblanceNum Pang - Peppercorn Catfish

Uni Tagliatelle at Cull and Pistol.  Squid ink pasta to me is like a box of chocolates.  You never know what you going to get.  Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt.  This one works big time.  The richness, and sweetness of the uni sauce puts the Tagliatelle into another dimension.  And while the cherry tomatoes, and squid are just there to look pretty, they don’t hurt.  Even my oldest (13) who swore against squid ink pastas when she tried it in Venice, enjoyed this one.Cull and Pistol Tagliatelle

Lobster.   When I first decided to do a blog post about the Chelsea Market, I said to myself.  “Ziggy, be unique.  Give them something more than what those Asian tourists are coming for”.  But who am I kidding.  Nothing says NYC more to me than this only in NYC thing.  The Maine Lobster Roll!  You can get it at the Lobster Place, or its sister Cull and Pistol with the most addictive, perfectly cut and seasoned fries.  Or, do it Asian tourist style – grab a table and share an entire one.Cull and Pistol Lobster Roll

Mighty Mushroom Roll at Beyond Sushi.  Dont say I’m not thinking of you Mr and Mrs health nut.  For something that is less than zero calories (you lose while you chew and lose some more while you fight a polish tourist for a sit at the steps) this is pretty darn good.  And its not just the truffle essence that puts this thing on the list, its also the Enoki, Shiitake, Tofu, Micro Arugula, Shiitake Teriyake sauce… err who am i kidding, its mainly the truffle essence.  The same essence I blame for not taking a picture.

Chocolate Chip Cookie with Caramel at Liddabit  – This is simply an awesome cookie!  Dont believe me? I once brought the cookie to my cookie obsessed/snob co-worker Lou…

“So, how do you like it?”

“This is a good cookie!”

See?  What sets it a part for me is not so much the caramel, but the liberal use of dark chocolate chunks all around.Liddabit Cookie

Nocciola delle Langhe at L’Arte del Gelato – Pure awesomeness.  If there’s better gelato in the city, I didn’t have it yet.  If you always wandered about the difference between ice cream and gelato, this is a good place to see the difference.L'Arte del Gelato

Categories: Chelsea, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Lazy Post – City as Canvas

095Whether you are for or against public graffiti you may still appreciate the City Of Canvas exhibit at the Museum of the City of New York.  Martin Wong who died of AIDS in 1999 was an artist and a graffiti pioneer in NYC, the city that defined the whole graffiti movement.  He amassed a huge graffiti collection during the 1970’s and 1980’s which he later donated to the city.  Wong’s works can be found in other museums all over the city including the Met.  After his death the Martin Wong foundation was created to continue his legacy

This is not the only reason to visit the Museum of the City of New York.  Rising Waters, a touchy subject with the Ziggy clan depicts the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy.  Activists New York explores the entire history of activism in New York, among other exhibits on display.

072 092 091 090 089 084 085 087 080 078 077 074 075

Categories: New York City | Tags: , , , | 1 Comment

The Road Trip Every New Yorker Should Do At Least Once

SomesvilleRumors have it that our new mayor has dropped the groundhog on his head and as a result we are suffering through the worst winter in recent memory.  Major salt shortages all over the city.  Lower back spasms from all that reaching to the wallet to pay the shovellers.  And not so much eating out lately.  Quality of life is taking a hit due to this winter, and instead of the usual food porn I’m presenting you with the finest New England lighthouses and pretty bridges with flowers.  Yes, the inner Ziggy is out at it again.

With that said, I was asked quite a few times for that New England road trip we did a few years back, and I figured its time to put it up here.  This is an 11 day road trip showcasing some NE highlights.  If anyone has any suggestions/comments/threats please dont hesitate to share in the comments.  But overall, road trips out of NYC dont get any better than this (and we had our share which includes Niagara)

The short Version (1 night each unless noted):

Newport

Sacco

Bar Harbor – 3

Boothbay

Portland

Gloucester – 3

Day 1 – Newport, RI.  One night.  Along with the drive back home this is the longest drive of the trip.  You are here to see the mansions, the gigantic summer cottages where the wealthiest Americans came to play in late 1800’s, early 1900’s.  You have just enough time for a couple of mansions on day one.  Allow around 75 minutes in each.   The Breakers, Elms, Marble house and Rosecliff are the musts IMO.  Consider the behind the scenes tour at the Elms.  Breakers stays open later in the day so you can squeeze it in the first day.  Have dinner in Salvation cafe.  Save your money and spend the night somewhere in Middletown very close by.  There’s a Holiday Inn express among other chains.

Newport, RI

Day 2 – Morning in Newport, and off to Maine.  Visit the rest of the mansion you want to see and do the spectacular cliff walk.  Park somewhere on Narraganset ave and walk to your right and back.  Visit the Touro synagogue, the oldest in the USA (1763).  Not the most beautiful and not the most interesting tour, but it will make you look good at future cocktail parties.  Take a drive on Ocean ave and have lunch in one of the wharf’s.  Black pearl is decent.  Good clam chowder.  Overall, Newport is fairly touristy (for good reason) which means not the most exciting food town.  After lunch start driving toward Bar Harbor with the idea of spending the night somewhere in the middle.  Hampton Inn in Saco near the highway is a good cheap option for families.  On the way to Saco however if its a nice clear day, take a detour to Cape Neddick to see the striking Nubble Lighthouse.  Stop by at the famous Clam Shack in Kennebunkport for a lobster roll on the way to the hotel.

Day 3 – Drive to Bar Harbor.  About 3.5 hours from Saco or Portland.  Take the 295/95 route and leave the scenic route 1 to the way back.  A convenient lunch in the area is the Chart Room off the main road.  This is a good day to simply relax and enjoy your hotel and Bar Harbor, but also a good day to go on a lobster tour with something like Lulu lobster because the rest of the days you would want to stay out of the area as much as possible.  Its a good day to start your lobster meal marathon somewhere although I dont have a particular recommendation.  Last time we had  lobster crapes at Maggies but looks like its now closed.  Have lobster ice cream at Mount Dessert Ice Cream.  Again, for the purpose of future cocktail parties (“Darling, you should have seen all the crazy gelato flavors being scooped up in Rome these days.. Anchovies! Feh! “, “Well, I bet it still beats Lobster gelato in baa haaba, my dear”).  You get my point.

Lulu lobster

I recommend splurging at the Bar Harbor Inn for 3 nights.  Spectacular setting, old rustic hotel with a lot of charm.  While there, please tell them to stop emailing Ziggy promotional material.  I will revisit when I’m ready.  Thank you!

Bar Harbor inn

Day 4 – Explore Acadia.  Essentially you want to do the 27 mile Park Loop road that takes you to all the cool spots.  Start with the visitor center and get a map.  Stop at Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, and other stops on the route.  Have lunch at the Jordan’s pond (get the popovers, good lobster rolls).  This is a must.  You will be hard pressed to find a more stunning setting, in the park’s only restaurant.  After lunch or before take a walk around the pond.  Then climb the South Bubble on the other side of the pond for more incredible views.  Drive up Cadillac mountain and walk around the summit and stay till sunset.  Its cold up there so bring a sweater, or a jumper if you are British.

South Bubble

Day 5 – Perhaps my favorite day of the entire trip.  Explore the quiet side of Mount Dessert Island:  Got to Somesville and look for the bridge (top picture).  Go kayak on Long pond, take a swim at stunning Echo lake beach, visit southwest harbor, do the ship harbor trail, and look for bass lighthouse.  “But Ziggy I still don’t see why this is your favorite day” Have lunch at Thurston’s lobster pound in Bernard.  “Ahh. thank you!”

Thurston's lobster pond

Day 6 – Back on the road.  Time to hit Route 1 – Not the most scenic drive, but all sorts of interesting stops on the way.  Consider spending some time in Camden.  But right before you get to Camden drive to the top of Mt. Battie for some great views of the bay.  Not a strenuous climb by any means.  In Camden enjoy the various galleries, shops, etc and you can take a 2 hour Schooner cruise if you like from the various vendors lined up at the port.  Have lunch in Camden or area.  Continue driving on route 1 south.  Another spectacular lighthouse on the way is the light at Pemaquid point.  Spend the night in Boothbay harbor, and consider dining at, what else, the lobster dock.

Pemaquid lighthouse

Day 7 – Back on the road.  Visit the surprisingly majestic and serene Coastal Botanical Gardens.  Its huge, so you can easily spend half a day here if you like.  Walk the forest.  Continue to Freeport and visit the original LL Beans store.  They have all kinds of activities and clinics you can sign up for in advance like archery and canoeing.  Spend the night in Maine’s largest city and one of the greatest food towns on the east coast, Portland.  Consider dining at Street and Co. or its sister Fore Street, widely considered as one of the best restaurants in the USA by all the publications/lists out there.

Coastal Botanical Gardens

Note:  If you opt to stay longer in Freeport to take advantage of the LL Beans clinics and still do the botanical gardens, you may need to stay an extra day in the Portland area or adjust the itinerary as needed.

Day 8 – Visit Portland sites including and especially Portland Light (yes another lighthouse – what else is new, but this is an absolute must).  This is more of a giant sprawling park that attracts a lot of locals and tourists and offer some of the best photo opps of the trip.  Its been over 12 hours since the last lobster meal so lunch at the nearby The Lobster Shack at Two Lights.  Drive toward Glaucester, Mass via Kennebunkport and the popular summer resort Ogunquit.  The idea here is to stay 2 nights in or near Gloucester.  Consider staying at TownePlace Suites in the town of Danvers.  Cheap 2 BR units right between Gloucester and Boston for easy access to both.  I found that the Gloucester popular hotels sell out quickly and/or too expensive for this purpose.

Portland Light

Day 9 – Take the 4 hour whale watching trip with 7 Seas Whale Watch out of Gloucester.  Should be one of the highlights of the trip.  Reserved in advance.  We saw 11 whales last time.  Or one whale 11 times.  Either way it was a blast

Note:  The summer is the best time to see whales in the area.  In order to play it safe weather wise you could do the Gloucester leg of the trip on the way to Maine instead of back, and switch if necessary in case the weather turns resulting in choppy water.

7 seas whale watch 7 seas whale watch Gloucester

Day 10 – Visit Gloucester sites including the various monuments, Hammond Castle, the nearby Rockport and do not miss Motif Number 1, the most often-painted building in America.  And in case it looks familiar and you feel like you’ve seen it a hundred times, you did.  When your kids watched “Finding Nemo” over and over again.  Its one of the paintings at the dentist office.  Have lunch in Causeway (good haddock) and check out Halibut point park

motif no 1 Rockport

Day 11 – Visit Boston

More from Acadia…

Echo lake beach Long pond Cadillac Mountain Sunset Cadillac Mountain Acadia - Sandy Beach Jordan's Pond Jordans Pond

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Caicos Cafe – More Sea-food-gasm

Caicos Cafe beef tartarPreviously on as Caicos Cafe turns

Sometime between the second and third course of the first meal, I made an executive decision.  Scrapping the plan to only go to Caicos Cafe once on this trip in order to give someone new a shot.  A plan I was never comfortable with, and the most likely cause of my Shingles.  Crisis averted, vacation saved.  Ok, a bit melodramatic I know.  But Ziggy’s mind is a mysterious and complex labyrinth, that produces joy via creating anticipations on a whim.

Caicos Cafe in a way represents everything I love about eating in places like Turks and Italy.  A masterful use of “backyard” ingredients by a talented chef, and the perfect formula.  A formula helped by a menu that screams for repeat visits.  A nice mix of old and brand new awesomeness during the recent visit….

Caicos Cafe - Troccoli

Jumbo scallops wrapped in pancetta (bacon for those scoring at home or if you’re alone) on a bed of green pea purée.  Expertly prepared, perfectly cooked scallops.  Goat cheese roll and butternut squash Brie tart with walnuts, sundried apricot, mushroom vinaigrette.  Somehow, I never got to try this so I can only go by Mrs Ziggy’s facial expressions and the words coming out of her mouth… “Ooh yum mmmm ooh need to go peepee”.  I think it was good.

It’s listed on the menu as a yellow tail snapper but we got a fresh grouper instead, prosecco flambeed with all sorts of seafood delights including some tasty bay scallops.  Another great dish showcasing Mad Max’s skills.  A dish of the year nominee for me was a new addition to the menu, Troccoli with octopus.  Troccoli pasta is homemade with a guitar like instrument (Chitarra) pressed against the dough sheet.  It looks and tastes like the Tuscan Pici but with egg and must be cooked more al dente.  With a super tender tasty Octopus (he uses another tool to tenderize the sucker) and Max’s signature roasted tomatoes to balance things out, the entire creation cooked in the locally caught octopus juices.   Simply fantastic!

Caicos Cafe - Wahoo Carpaccio

On the last night there it was again on the specials board, Wahoo Carpaccio.  People if you ever see it on the board and you love seafood, you must order this.  Whenever Max gets fresh Wahoo I believe he puts it up there.  Expertly done with a touch of pink peppercorn, melt in your mouth sea butter foodgasm when harry met sally worthy of a run on sentence goodness.  Another top dish nominee was the beef tartar.  It was tough taking pictures of this one with the strong truffle oil (first time I see truffle oil used here) scent slapping you in the face.  I was just anxious to attack this thing with full force.  Served with toasted baguettes this was another killer tartar (as is the tuna we enjoyed in the past).  The conch and grouper chowder while lacking the spices of Le Bouchon’s version it more than made up for it with hefty chunks of grouper and conch

Seafood Casserole was the last menu classic I haven’t tried yet, and turned out to be well deserved of the classic tag.  Like a glorious bouillabaisse, with every seafood known to man in it.  Or at least every seafood known to south Caicos fisherman.  A sauce you just want to dip anything in, fingers, room keys, anything.  Lobster linguine fra diavolo was as good as ever, but with an extra kick this time seems like.  Shared Ziggy’s fave Affogato (thats what it says on the menu.  Ok, not really, still working on it) and the mango apple tart, possibly my two favorite desserts at the moment.

Caicos Cafe - Chowder Caicos Cafe - Scallops Caicos Cafe - Grouper Caicos Cafe - lobster fra diavolo Caicos Cafe SeafoodCaicos Cafe - Apple Mango Tart

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