You know what they say. Once you are able to spell it without googling, you are halfway there. I’m not exactly sure who says it, or know what it means (sounds more like a Yogi Berra quote). But when it comes to certain places with difficult spellings, it rings true. It took me years to finally learn how to spell Rendezvous Bay without looking. Roughly 5 years for “Rendezvous”, and a couple of months for “Bay”. I’m now officially a fan.
Coincidentally I almost misspelled “Deux” here. For a blog with the tagline “Dining Well, Spelling Pourly”, maybe I should let some of these spellings stay. But I cant screw up the title for search purposes.
Part Deux was more of the same. Same hotel (Rendezvous Bay Hotel), same beach, same beach shacks, same healing powers. The healing powers were especially important as both stays were right after hardships. We’ve been around, especially in this part of the world. I cant think of another beach or place that can better improve your spiritual health. We needed this.
For city slickers, it can be a religious experience. Until you turn right one day and see a 60+ male wearing a Borat style black thong, and you are stuck with this image for half of the trip. Thats the price you pay when dealing with empty beaches. You are in the mercy of those interrupting the tranquility. Would it kill him to lie on his back just once. On second thought, strike that. Its not a prettier picture.
When the Sunshine Shack is open, you’ll find roughly 90% of the people on this beach there. It evolved from a simple beach shack to one of the most popular simple beach shacks in the Caribbean. Its the Caribbean version of the original Shake Shack. Waits for food can be painful at times so bring your patience, and order a frozen BBC (Baily’s, Banana, Coconut) to fill you up while you wait. Stick to chicken and ribs, as the lobster isnt the best value
There’s not a whole lot I can write that I didnt before, so I’ll just leave you with the original post. More food for thought to come. Just like with the previous installment, its weird to write about some beach at these crazy times. But we can all use a distraction sometimes.
Whether you are a first timer, a ten timer, urologist or whatever, you may find some of these random tips useful. Or not. I have no idea. That’s why I like to use the word “Random”. It relieves some of the pressure to provide the most necessary tips, such as how to carry your wallet, say hello, and my absolute favorites, “Bring Your Camera”, and “Wear Comfy Shoes”. I prefer to focus on tips not covered as much by the mainstream.
Stay in the 11tharrondissement
I suppose what’s a better way to get your attention than start with some controversy. With so many areas to choose from, I suggest staying in one where the closest major attraction is… a cemetery. But that’s precisely the idea here. Its an often overlooked area, mainly outside the tourist route. While you’ll see plenty of tourists, its a nice mix of locals, tourists, boutique shops, cafes, and most importantly one of the better food areas in Paris. Its like the East Village of Paris. After visiting all areas in the center, it felt good coming back here.
Take a food/drink experience
A food experience is something I always look for in my travels. Mainly food tours. The problem of food tours in Paris is that most tours offer mostly the familiar stuff… Croissant, Baguette, cheese, cold cuts…) but the experience as a whole including meeting other visitors, and a fun guide still may make it worthwhile. But instead of a food tour, consider something like a French cheese and wine class to get up to speed with these important and often misunderstood staples. Paroles de Fromagers is not a collection of cheesemongers on parole, but a shop that offers these fun educational experiences including tastings and workshops. And if Agathe is your “teacher”, you are in for a treat.
Spend a night in Chartres
A charming town becomes a magical one at night. Usually between April and January (check the current year plan), the striking cathedral and monuments all over town get illuminated. The cathedral light show alone will make famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. You also have the picturesque medieval center, the tiled Maison Picassiette, and on the way you can stop by the splendid Château de Maintenon (below)
Louvre’s real secrets are the entrances
Much has been said about this one, but why no one takes advantage. While the line by the pyramid snakes around for like a mile, just walk 5 minutes to the “Porte des Lions” entrance where the two lions will greet you with a much nicer welcome. Thats two lions more than most likely the amount of people you’ll encounter. But not from the river side as the gate may be closed. From the Jardin du Carrousel side. Once inside in the lobby turn left. Strangely if you turn right, you may see a sign saying you are at the wrong building. Just turn around.
See “How to become a Parisian in one hour”
Here’s a tip in the true sense. Instead of seeing school level artistry featuring topless women at a small fortune, why not see a show that’s much more of a bang for the buck. Unless of course no topless is a non starter. “How to become a Parisian in one hour” is not exactly a riot, but a witty one man show by an animated comedian. Its a fun hour and change. And in the process you learn a few things about Parisians, metro, shopping, Parisian dog poop, and even get a chance to ask him questions at the end.
Eiffel’s best angle is from Trocadéro
If you are like Mrs Z, you’ll likely drag your significant other to the “Iphone Tower” (because thats all you’ll mostly see) every other day. Even when you stay 30 minutes away. We saw the tower from every angle at different times of the day, and nothing remotely comes close to the view from Trocadéro Square at night where you see the icon in all its glory. (The last time we did that was October 7!). Other areas closer to the tower were much less pleasant.
Adjust your Breakfast needs
Its 8 am, you are tired of Yoghurt, croissant, baguette, butter, jam, rinse, repeat for the past 5 days and you are ready for a nice omelet. An hour later, you give up searching and settle for a croissant, baguette, butter, jam breakfast elsewhere for double the price and no yoghurt. While you can find amazing egg dishes, and other goodies Americans associate with breakfast in Paris, it doesnt mean that you’ll find many kitchens serve these things before 11 am. Even if Google shows that the corner Brasserie is open early, it doesnt means its kitchen is open. Instead follow the local crowds into bakeries.
Put Palais Garnier on the must list
You can easily overlook this gem if you only focus on “guide book musts”. Although not quite as famous as the Louvre, this might be a more memorable experience depending on your interests. Opulence on another level. And that’s just what people are normally wearing for this photo shoot. This is where I want my next wedding to take place!
Learn your RERs and SNCFs
Using the metro in Paris is very convenient. I have to admit that as a New Yorker I was envious. It took us a few trips to Paris to finally use it, but once we did, it became fairly easy with the aid from best friend Google Maps. If only my friend gave me the proper advice when we went to Chantilly. While you can get there with RER, it’s not only not the best way, but you risking a fine when you take the wrong train back which is quite easy to do. For within the city use the RER. For intercity, use the comfy and sometimes even strangely cheaper SNCF.
Yes, have a crepe, but also try a Galette
I’m shocked by the amount of visitors that come to Paris and never try a Galette. Ok, I only met two, but they are out there I’m sure. Galette is the savory, good looking cousin of the Crepe, made with buckwheat flour and filled with cooked ham, egg, and comté cheese. After a big lunch, I cant think of a better alternative to pizza as a light dinner. Its a Brittany import, and the best place to try them are Brittany imports like the Breizh Cafe chain.
Thats all I got today kids. Just remember to wear comfy shoes and dont forget to take your camera!
Paris visitors usually follow the same playbook. See the main sights and save room for a day in Versailles. We also followed the same playbook on our first visit, though Versailles wasnt nearly as busy back then, and my hairline looked much better in the Hall of Mirrors. But when Château of Versailles became a UNESCO World Heritage sight in 1979, another important site, less than an hour out, got the same designation.
That site is the Chartres Cathedral, the first UNESCO cathedral. No need for a welcome to Chartres sign as the towering cathedral you see upon entering the town does the job just fine. A 12th century architectural marvel that includes a record 2,600 square meters of stained glass. It ranks quite up there with the grand cathedrals of Europe. And once you see it at night from April to January, the unforgettable interior almost becomes forgettable.
No pictures, videos, or this post will properly prepare you for the Chartres Lumieres experience. The light shows on the cathedral will make the world famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. But thats not nearly the only building. The entire town including other notable monuments and bridges get their own light displays, and the entire town is transformed into something you see on Xmas movies. Except that its April, June, or maybe August.
The town also boasts a quaint medieval center, and just outside of the center you have the unusual Maison Picassiette – A property entirely decorated with mosaics of glass and china fragments. Sort of similar in a way to Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens. Overall its a fun town to explore, and Le Parc Stanislas, a bed and breakfast will make you wish you booked more nights. Its the calm before the Paris storm.
And if you have a car, on the way to/from Paris check out Château de Maintenon, a hidden gem 30 minutes from Chartres. Even on a beautiful October day the Château was fairly empty. This is the sight of the final scene of The Professional. No, not that The Professional, the good one, with Jean-Paul Belmondo.
Yes, Portland Oregon is weird. Even for a New Yorker. Some of the quirkiness you see in East Village or Washington Square Park like ask a puppet for advice is just another corner in Portland. Same for how people generally look and dress. All you need is a 5 minute walk down Alberta Arts District to see that you are not in Kansas anymore. They have an annual nude bike race for Christ’s sake. Even the birds are weird, and possibly stoned. You’d think when a car is approaching they’d scoot faster out of the way, but they take their time and sometimes cause mini traffic jams.
For a place with the population size of Staten Island, the food scene is just ridiculous. They dont just have food trucks or carts, they got islands of them called pods. Like outdoor food courts. Around 500 food carts dispersed all over the city, and none are the same. Add a tremendous restaurant scene to the mix and you got a foodie paradise. I may have lost some sleep trying to sort out the food schedule. Being close to food rich Alberta complicated matters more. More on the food later.
Japanese Gardens
But that’s not nearly all. Portland is not the most attractive city I’ve seen. But it’s parks and gardens like the Japanese garden are world class. You can do some serious forest bathing here between Mt Tabor, the Grotto (62 acres sanctuary), and the mother of all forests, Forest Park where you can hike to the picture perfect Pittock Mansion. Portland’s collection of trees are impressive to say the least.
Other than the parks, Portland’s charm is in it’s neighborhoods. The Northwest District, especially the area around 23rd Ave is fun to explore, day or night. You’ll get a different feel once you cross the river to the lively Mississippi Ave, Williams, and the vibrant Alberta. Staying in one of those areas instead of the downtown area where most tourists (and many homeless) stay is the conventional wisdom these days.
Multnomah
But to me the biggest draw other than the food scene, is the proximity to various natural wonders. Half an hour away is Columbia River Gorge and its very accessible world class waterfalls. If you wont get Iceland vibes at Latourell Falls with its basalt, you will surely get it at Multnomah. You dont need to walk much from the parking lot for the classic shot. After chasing waterfalls, the town of Hood River conveniently awaits with its breweries and art galleries. You can either continue to Mt Hood, or come back from the Washington side of the river for another picturesque drive.
70 miles south you have Silver Falls State Park and its stunning South Fall. Dont even bother looking at pictures of this one, as its something you need to see and experience. A dramatic ending (or beginning) to a beautiful 3-5 mile hike. Then after a coffee stop in Salem, proceed to Willamette Valley, Oregon’s Wine Country. From little Iceland to little Tuscany, though with more than 500 wineries perhaps not that little. Consider Trisaetum winery, for the wine and the above average Charcuterie board.
Portland’s problems are in full display. But so is everything else that’s not going away, and that you wont see mentioned in the media. Cant wait to come back to see the rest.
“This is a Cork tree…. Any questions?” Two minutes into our tour with David of cork producer Cortiçarte, was all we needed to get a sense on how the rest is gonna go. One of the many personalities worth seeking out in the beautiful Alentejo countryside. The large city folk look at the people of Alentejo like mainland Italians look at Sicilians. It’s where time is time, and taking it slow and living in the moment is misinterpreted as backward and lazy. You see some evidence of that from former professional soccer players now driving Ubers to hospitality workers
David then proceeded to give us a fascinating and entertaining tour of the small family owned factory. The dude turns out is a natural. Portugal produces 60% of the worlds cork and much of it is done in this region. I mean how often do you think about where this stuff comes from. You usually begin by focusing entirely on the wine, and end with seeing unicorns. And like in a museum, at Cortiçarte you end up eventually in the gift shop. Except that its a good one this time. A shop selling all sorts of items made of, you guessed it, aluminum. J/k, its more cork.
Much of the cork doesnt have to travel far. While the Douro Valley got the pizzazz and fame, Alentejo is actually Portugal’s largest wine country. It’s wineries cover a third of the country in fact. Most of the reds are robust blends, while the whites are well balanced and quite aromatic. “Fruity or no fruity” became the question of the day by restaurant owners in the region. Even when we opted for “no fruity”, they were plenty fruity, and surprisingly delicious. I say surprisingly since living in the states you dont hear much about this region. It’s the Virginia of Europe wine regions, at least as far as my knowledge goes.
Herdade do Esperao is not quite as striking as some of the wineries we’ve visited in Europe, but it is one of the more important, and boasts one heck of a restaurant. You can book a tour and tasting as we did, followed by lunch. Its quite the production, and it was interesting to see the process, and cellars (not pictured). The tasting especially was a revelation as some of the reds in particular were quite potent.
I dont believe you can go wrong choosing between the Michelin or the Tapas Bar here. Since it was a Sunday, our only option was the Tapas Bar and that was a nice treat. I rarely say it but… vegetables! Yay! Normally veggies in Portugal are just boring sides, but here they shine. Asparagus, beet root (the star of show), and the cabbage salad that came with the pork were particularly noteworthy. A superb lamb came with scalloped potatoes with a surprise inside… more lamb. Perhaps even more memorable was the enthusiastic young waiter that talked about every ingredient like a couple talking about their first newborn.
Alentejo’s boasts some pretty impressive hilltop villages. Marvao, Castelo de Vide, Elvas and Monsaraz just to name a few, with Monsaraz perhaps the most dramatic of the bunch. I can see Marvao fans shaking their heads profusely. No argument there as they all offer something for everyone. Perhaps it was the little cemetery in Monsaraz that did it for me. Or the super friendly volunteer at the tourist office. Or the views of the lakes and Spain from its walls. With very few tourists going this far, not many residents have much reason to stay. Still, empty or not, Monsaraz might be Portugal’s best hidden secret
How often do we judge destinations based on expectations, rather than face value. Imagine seeing Pena Palace in Sintra, or the Eiffel Tower without knowing anything about them. Sort of just bumping into them by accident. You’ll be anxious to tell the world about your findings rather than figure out whether expectations were met. Sometimes it works the other way. High expectations can convince you to appreciate a place much more than you would otherwise. Sort of “the emperor has no clothes” effect.
The more you read about Aveiro, the more you start questioning whether this is a worthy destination. You get the idea that its not genuine, too touristy, there’s not a whole lot to do, and my favorite, its nothing like Venice. Aveiro’ small canal system, and colorful boats gave it the nickname the Venice of the South. Just like with the Florence of the south (Lecce), people often make the mistake of comparing them to their “look-alikes”, and setting themselves up for disappointment.
But on face value, Aveiro is unlike anything I’ve seen. Even if you take out the canals and boats, its a stunner. The cobblestone streets with the maritime motifs, picturesque squares, and flashy architecture give the town a certain atmosphere. Its clean and very pleasant to walk around, even outside of the main zone. We didnt find it overrun with tourists, but much like Porto, we saw a lot of construction.
But the boats, or Moliceiros, and canals definitely give it an added flair. You can take a boat ride (too hot on our visit). Or simply walk around to admire the boats, and search for the naughtiest paintings. Every boat has some sort of an illustration in the front, some quite strange, and potentially offensive. The history is not exactly clear. It started as politically motivated, and somehow transformed into this over time. Its weird and hilarious at the same time. Just zoom in on some of the pictures. You can find more examples here and here, and I just had to steal one from the excellent Julie Dawn Fox.
Julie Dawn Fox
Like many towns in Portugal, the town has its own convent treat, Ovos Moles (“soft eggs”). We picked up some from a shop called 1882. There’s even a bakery with a workshop, teaching tourists how to make them. Honestly, after eating convent desserts all over Portugal, we were not particularly wowed by these. Ultra sweet and eggy. Sugar, eggs and sometimes almonds dominate the convent dessert scene all over the country. But you have to admire how old traditions get preserved as such.
Another big reason to come here is the nearby port/beach town of Costa Nova, and its colorful houses. You can make this stop as big as you want. Take advantage of the many seafood restaurants (Marisqueiras), go to the beach, or just take a stroll on the promenade along the striped fishermen houses. My unofficial explanation is that the fishermen had a drinking problem, and after numerous misunderstandings, some turned lethal involving spouses, they decided to color their houses to ensure they find the right one at the end of along day.
The great www is flooded with Portugal itineraries of all types and sizes. So why should you trust this one? You shouldnt. I think the vast majority of out there are fairly useless to most people, and mine is no exception. I myself dont usually like to look at other people’s itineraries, but do so sometimes at the very beginning stages just to get a general idea.
But since we are asked by many for our itineraries, Mrs Z started posting them on her local Facebook group, so this is mostly just a copy and paste. This itinerary takes into account our pace, love of food (duh!), culture, photography (friends more than us), and variety. A nice mix of cities, villages, cuisine types, and even variety in accommodations. It also means renting a car for part of the trip. In other words, a whole bunch of useless stuff. But maybe you’ll get a yummy meal or three out of this. Every mention of a specific restaurant, hotel, or place, means I recommend. If there’s a dinner or lunch I omitted, it means it was a fail. Here we go…
Day 1 – Fly to Porto
Check into Hotel Catalonia
Explore central area: Rua de Santa Catarina, Mercado do Bolhão, City Hall, McDonald’s (no joke), São Bento train Station, and other sites you want to see nearby.
Francesinha lunch at Cafe Santiago. Not sure if its the best anymore, but its sort of a local legend and close to the hotel. Another good option is Brasão Coliseu across the street but I havent tried it.
Rest
Dinner at O Buraquinho da Sé. Can book via Facebook, try well in advance. Octopus of your dreams.
Day 2 – Porto
Jewish Heritage Tour with Portoalities, or another tour with this agency. You dont need to be Jewish to appreciate the Jewish tour.
Lunch at Taberna dos Mercadores. Tough booking, only by phone, or join the line. Lunch or dinner obviously doesnt matter.
Explore Ribeira area.
São Francisco church and/or Bolsa Palace.
If you still have time explore Vila Nova de Gaia.
Day 3 – Bom Jesus / Guimaraes
Uber to Bom Jesus do Monte (or train via Braga)
Uber or train to Guimaraes.
Lunch at Restaurante Virtudes. For this day I just wanted something in the main square and this did the trick.
Uber or train to Porto.
Dinner at “O Grade”. Booked via google maps. Family place, super popular with tourists. A marginal recco here, not an absolute must. I liked it more 12 years ago.
Ok, this is a joke. I may have touched on this in the past, but I still see this advice for Lisbon and just about every non-beach destination in the world. Is there a human left that doesnt already know this by now? Women think about this as soon as they book flights. If you give this advice to Mrs Z, she will give you the smackdown and show you all the blisters she got just today. And dont get me started on “Dont forget your camera”. Here are 10 real tips that you may or may not know by now
Dont sweat about location
People often ask for the best location on social media sites, and I’m still not sure what is the right answer. Its really not much different than any other capital. The sites and attractions are fairly spread out, and you will have cons and pros wit just about every area. This time we opted to stay at BessaHotel Liberdade and were very happy with the location, especially with the proximity to shopping. Its still good value for us Americans, and its got to be one of the best showers in Europe. With the built in bathroom speakers it felt like you are in an Irene Cara music video. What a feeling!
Reserve the most popular yesterday
Unlike say Paris, NYC, and much of the world, restaurant reservations are available months in advance in Portugal. For haute joints like Alma, its understandable that it could be a tough table to get, but even simpler non Michelin spots like O Velho Eurico, can be booked solid months out. Its a pain in the ass but worth seeking them out. Same advice for Porto.
Try Goan
Lisbon has a very large Bengali and Indian population. It was interesting to walk some of the streets like Rua do Benformoso and see nothing but Bengali and Indian joints all over. But since Goa, the Western Indian state, was once a Portuguese colony, there’s also that connection and history. Its not just a history listen, but the food is pretty darn good. Once you have eaten your way through all the seafood delights that Portugal has to offer, this is more than a nice change of pace. You got the great Jesus é Goês, Zuari, and many more options all over the city.
Researching Pasteis is mostly a waste of time
Years ago it was more or less clear that if you wanted the best Pasteis you had to go to the source, Pasteis de Belem. But these days, with so many bakeries and chains opening throughout the years, the competition increased and opinions vary. Many swear by Manteigaria, and many still stand firmly behind the royalty of Belem. But to me the most important ingredient is freshness, and that’s a little difficult to predict. For us, the most consistently fresh Pasteis came from Fábrica da Nata, in various Lisbon and Sintra locations. Regardless, if you are a food enthusiast, a visit to Pasteis de Belem is still a must.
Skip the flashy Sardinesand do theConserveira
Good sardines are expensive and hard to find in the US. In Porto and Lisbon you’ll find some very curious gimmicky instagramable sardine shops that may even feature a musician playing a musical instrument in a Phantom of the Opera type setting. I cant say to the quality of their cans, as I rather put my money on an old school, no frills, 4th generation family business like Conserveira de Lisboa. Its a place you go to buy canned seafood, not to browse around. And there’s literally nothing to see anyway except for your sardine consultant/salesmen. It’s the Di Palo’s of Lisbon. Lines can be long but its worth it
Spend time outside the center
The biggest change in Portugal today vs 10 years ago is that it became much more touristy. Its a very hot, trendy destination at the moment on top of the post pandemic revenge travel thats still ongoing. Dont be surprised to be surrounded by visitors all over the center. Its important then to spend some time outside the tourist zones, in areas like Príncipe Real, Campo de Ourique, or Ajuda. You’ll even see a big change in food prices. Bonus tip: Try getting to Churrasqueira do Marquês for grilled chicken, before walking to Belem. You’ll most likely be the only tourist there.
The hills are alive with the sound of pain
You read about them, you look at pictures, and you still arrive without care and proper plan to see every neighborhood and every view point in one day. Dont underestimate the hills, and some of the Miradouros (sponsored by Lisbon’s coalition of knee replacement specialists). They may wear you out by day one. Some require more effort than others. And if I have to choose just one Miradouro, it would be Miradouro de Santa Luzia in Alfama. And remember of course to wear comfortable shoes!
Uber is your friend, not the tram
Prices certainty increased over the years, but Uber is still quite cheap, especially when compared to a large USA city. They are quick, reliable, and sometimes you get a chance to meet a local. Its not so much a way to replace a tram, which is more of an attraction. But one look at the miserable faces of tram 28 riders stuck in traffic in Alfama is all you need. It’s also relatively expensive, crowded, and requires careful planning to avoid the queues, and pick pocketers..
You dont have to wait for Santa Justa Lift
I dont know who needs to hear this, but its still amazing to see long lines to Santa Justa, even though the walk up is 5 minutes. Take Rua do Carmo down, make a right, another right, and look for the stairs up to Carmo Convent. Unless you are already up, coming from Bairro Alto, just head to Carmo. If you must take the lift, the line down is much shorter.
Go on a Bordalo II hunting
This is a supremely talented “trash artist”. He converts junk into beautiful animal sculptures. You can find his work throughout the city, but some are a bit more difficult to get to. As of this writing to my knowledge you got the The Cat, “Sapo de Lixo”, Monkey, Panda, the new birds on the corner of Rua do Carmo and de Santa Justa by the lift, Raposa, and the Raccoon. If you can find them all, you’ll get a free annual subscription to EWZ.
How often do I write about a stay? After over 10 years, and hundreds of posts, I only remember three. A little farm near Aragona in Sicily, a winery in Tuscany, and our usual Turks and Caicos base where we’ve been staying since it was built. Portugal actually produced two stays worth writing about. Maybe a new blog is in order? Sleeping With Ziggy? Ok, I dont know why I went there.
But I am considering a few small changes to EWZ with design and one very unusual content tweak. Just to spice it up a bit, on a random post, I will add a very short show/movie review. I dont have the vocabulary arsenal of a movie reviewer (or food reviewer for that matter), but I’m a bit of a movie/show buff and got plenty to say and recommend. Any yeas or nays?
Speaking of streaming, when I sent a note to Ricardo, Quinta das Pedras’ passionate owner that I forgot to log off from Apple TV, he made it his mission to take care of it ASAP. Every single question or request throughout the booking process was answered within 5 minutes. Once you meet him you understand why.
Quinta das Pedras is a two room bed and breakfast in Belas, 15-20 minutes from Sintra. While its fairly close to Lisbon (20 minutes from Belém), I imagine most people, like us, pick it as their Sintra base, even though its not super convenient for Sintra either. You pick it for the pictures, the description and the 10 rating of the over 100 reviews on Booking. I’ve been using Booking.com for as long as I remember, and can’t remember ever seeing a property rated as such.
It’s virtually impossible to rate this place lower even if you find negatives. The kindness and attention to detail of the host, the gardens, the pool, and the countless of chachkies and collectibles throughout the property make it a 5 star experience for a 2 star price. We paid more than double to stay at a grand hotel in Philly last week, and the experience cant really compare.
Its a newish property that will most likely blossom into something you’ll need to book a year out. Ricardo’s grandparents essentially spent some time building a magnificent garden, and later on built a house near it. Inside the house and surroundings you’ll find many collectibles from their many travels from all over the world. From Zimbabwe to India, Israel, Ukraine.. etc. Its a museum, inside out.
The breakfast, and individual fruit salads alone worth the price of admission. Ricardo, the perfectionist, always there to take care of every need. He anticipates them like a three Michelin waiter. Just when you thought he’s taking care of your bedding, he’s outside the property directing traffic while you back out. It was like there were three of him.
But that’s not all. While communicating with Ricardo about the area food, he suggested to cook for us on one of the nights. Next thing you know, he’s running around with an apron setting up our table by the pool. A delicious Turkey with apricots, red wine and tarragon, with sides of broccoli and rice. We enjoyed it with the nice red we got from the Convento do Espinheiro in Evora (the other worthy writeup). Finished with a divine homemade choc mousse. A private meal by the pool for the price of an average restaurant.
As I mentioned the place has only two guest rooms. Perfect for two couples or a family. After a long day of palace hopping, the pool is extremely refreshing. That’s after you spend another hour walking around the property, taking the same pictures your took yesterday.
Did I get your attention? Scroll down if you are just here for the cookie porn. But for the rest of you this post is all about our Douro day with Facebook group star Igor of Porto Tours and Transfers. Unless your trip is at least 6 months from now, forget it. You can try, but the dude is usually booked many months out. But you do have many options these days besides Igor, so dont despair.
This wasnt our first time seeing the valley. 12 years ago we explored it on our own, before Google Maps was a thing. Hitting dead ends, and dirt roads was just part of the adventure. I remember the feeling of finally finding Quinta de La Rosa, our most memorable lunch destination. Memorable for the view and attention mostly, as we were the lone guests. With Porto tourism increasing seemingly 10 fold since, eating at any Quinta facing the Duoro alone is a fantasy these days.
Quintada Pacheca, undeniably one of the most interesting wineries we’ve ever come across. Its a stunner. Not small, not cheap, and it comes with its own resident artist, Oscar Rodriguez. You’ll see his work throughout the property. And before you know it, you are scratching heads at his studio trying to figure out how he’s able to create paintings with just 6 different kinds of wine.
We tasted a very respectable white, a robust red Reserva, and quite a potent 40 y/o Tawny. The Tawny alone worth the price of admission. Its the kind of property you want to spend some time, if not days (sleep in a giant wine barrel, anyone?). This is where you want to host your next wedding, or Gynecologist convention. The gynecologists may or may not have a problem with the bathroom glass doors and lack of privacy. What is it with Portugal and its fascination with bathroom glass doors.
Just across the river in Peso da Régua, O Maleiro was quite the tasty, ultra local treat for lunch. Family style is the name of the game. And there was plenty of game in the superb Alheira… boar, chicken, and plenty of spices. Grilled, not fried, made a difference. Its not particularly attractive after its sliced, but this was the best tasting sausage of the trip. Alheira was invented by jews in order to avoid expulsion. They hung sausages on their doors in order to show their solidarity, without revealing the true porkless recipe.
As satisfying as the grilled black pork and potatoes was, it was solidly out-staged by the juiciest pork loin this side of where you can find the juiciest pork loin. Served with a particularly addictive Feijao Frade – black eyed peas (or “mung beans” here) and kale salad. After the meal, you go to the side of the bar, and pour your own port. My kind of place.
We followed that mini feast with some road fruit shopping (those cherries!), a jaw dropping view point, and the sleepy town of Amarante for cookie porn. On our previous visit to Amarante, we somehow missed the penis cookies completely, but it turns out this town is totally obsessed with them. The history is hazy, but it seems like a weird way to honor patron saint São Gonçalo.
Apparently São Gonçalo had special skills, but not the kind your dirty mind assumes. He had special matchmaking powers where he would help an older female with low prospects find love. Besides the local festivals featuring all sorts of phallic cakes, its tradition for a man to give a penis shaped cookie to someone he desires. It works! I gave one to my friend Robert, and 20 minutes later he had a headache. Besides, the next day, the cookie got too hard! I knew I should have bought the one filled with cream. Ok, I’ll stop now.
