Ronda, smack in the middle of Andalucia isnt getting nearly as much love as the big boys. That’s partly due to its size, and partly for being, well, smack in the middle, away from the big boys. While businesses such as the the nearby wineries would prefer a Rioja type fame, as a tourist I’m not complaining. At the moment I’m researching Napa, our most famous wine country, and the difference is staggering in price, crowds and even beauty.
Simply put, the Serrania de Ronda, the southwest region of the Malaga province is a geographical wonder. It rivals Tuscany as one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen, and we were completely unprepared for it. Not that we needed to be more prepared (cleaner underwear?) but it totally caught us by surprise and maybe I would have made an effort to stay longer. Here’s what we did before, during, and after our stay in Ronda.
Reservatauro Ronda – This is a very unique place. A horse and bull farm about 10 km outside of Ronda. A 90 minute tour of the property, and an entertaining lesson of the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. You can upgrade to a light lunch, and meet other travelers in the process. And if you’ll get Desiree(sp?) as your guide you are in for a treat, including a mean Tinto de Verano.
Setenil de las Bodegas – Out of the many white villages in the area and all over Andalucia this is perhaps the most unique. Houses built into the surrounding cliffs. Its quite a sight that’s becoming more and more popular, so better to come early or late in the day to beat the crowds. If you come late, the hilly village may be a bit more challenging but it will be relatively peaceful.
Olvera – Another picturesque village, albeit this one fairly sleepy. There was quite a bit construction during our visit, so hopefully you’ll have better luck, and energy. If you are not “castled out” by this point, you may want to check out Olvera Castle for the castle itself and the splendid views of the church from a distance. And while you at it, check out Bar Pimentel for, you guessed it, Russian food, by a character owner
Caminito del Rey – The safest scariest hike in the world deserves its own post. It an hour out so you can do it as a day trip from Ronda, Malaga, Granada or on your way to one of them as we did. A bucket list item for nature lovers.
Bodegas Ramos-Paul – One of a number of wineries scattered just north of Ronda. This is an absolute stunner, managed by a husband and wife team. Wife’s family is one of the original founders of Cruzcampo, the local beer (pretty much) monopoly. Book a tour of the property, followed by a tasting of their robust, superb reds served with two to three tasty tapas. The wine is aged at least 10 years in the bottle, and costs well under $100 due to, well, not being called Rioja. A fraction of what you’ll pay in Napa for a similar experience.
Other possibilities: Cueva de la Pileta, Zahara de la Sierra, Casares…
I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.
Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.
Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.
Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.
So glad I didnt listen to the naysayers. Skip it, too crowded, it attracts like a bazillion thousand people, horse poop everywhere, you wont be able to get reservations. The last one almost made me reconsider and change plans. While I obviously cant compare this week to any other time, other than assume there are less people, the crowds for this New Yorker were not nearly as bad. Here’s everything you need to know about the Feria. Well, almost everything.
First, add it to the mental bucket list. A year ago I never even heard of this. But I feel like everyone should experience it at least once. Simply put, its one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. Its Easter in New Orleans on crack. A week of celebrations, colors, horses, and a whole lot of beautiful people. Hence, we felt like we belonged.
The basics. Its a full week, normally in April (could be May in 2025). Google for the exact dates. Its held in an area well outside the city center so you can control how much Feria you want to have. At the Feria its essentially a huge scene, blocks and blocks of people celebrating inside their private “Casetas”, striped tents, where they drink and dance for much of the afternoon and night. Not to mention the parade of horses and carriages that brings the participants. And with everyone dressed in flamenco attire you essentially get the world’s largest free fashion show.
Do Plaza de España, preferably on Sunday afternoon. Even if you dont set foot at the Feria, just being in Seville that week is pretty cool. With so many well dressed participants flocking to Plaza de España, especially on the weekend after the fair start, its like being in a movie set
As for how to get there. Buses frequently run just outside Prado de San Sebastián and back. I believe there are other bus options but this is the most convenient in the center as of this writing. Its not free, but quite cheap at around a one euro p/p
Dont go in the morning. In Spain the later the better. In the early morning you’ll see Feria participants arriving back from a night full of partying. There’s not a whole lot going on there prior to noon, except cleanup.
There are public Casetas. But they are, well, public, so not nearly as attractive as the private ones. But you at least you can get a drink, and maybe some atmosphere. Try Rebujito, the official drink of the fair invented in 1985. You pay for a small pitcher.
As fun as it is you may suffer from sensory overload after a couple of hours. Go at around 5-6, before dinner. But you’ll see much of the city transform and people dressed up everywhere. One of many reasons to visit Andalucía.
It took me roughly 48 seconds to realize that a day trip to Cordoba just wont do. Between the main monuments, patios, the various distinct neighborhoods, and nearby sites, even 48 hours felt like scratching the surface. The 22nd largest city in Spain has more UNESCO sites (4) than any city in the world. Remarkable considering you have cities like Paris and Rome in the mix.
The city is full of layers showcasing its rich Roman, Jewish, and Islamic past. For much of the middle ages, it was one of the most important cities in the world. But even some of the newer parts show plenty of charm. This is not a complete guide, but more or less what we did, arriving from Seville, with Granada next. Car as always, helps.
On the way from Seville you can stop at Castillo Almodovar del Rio, only 30 minutes from Cordoba. This is another Game of Thrones site, one of many in Spain. The castle is part Casterly Rock, but mainly Highgarden, the Tyrell’s house. Just dont make the mistake of coming within an hour before closing. If they show they close at 2:30 PM, it means they lock the gate at 1:30 PM. But even being on top, walking around the castle is pretty cool. Got plenty of nice drone shots.
Check into H10 Palacio Colomera. One of many new H10 properties sweeping the country. Beautiful building overlooking the picturesque Plaza de las Tendillas (busy during the day but quiet at night. Soundproof windows). Other than an unexpected 2am wake up call and some smelly bathroom issues that can probably be sorted out, this was a fine stay.
The surrounding area is a major shopping hub. Parking is advised to be reserved ahead at Parking Calle Sevilla 5. Just Google your drive to the parking garage to know what to expect (easy, but still), and pick up your much deserved snack at La Tranquera Solo Empanadas right near the garage.
I cant think of a better welcome to patio obsessed Cordoba than a visit to Palacio de Viana. A 15th century Palace where the spectacular patios and gardens didnt seem to end (I discovered my limits). 12 distinct gardens that will give you plenty of ideas for your spring planting. The palace was occupied by various families, last one being Marqueses de Viana until 1980, hence the name.
Explore what I call the upper Centro, the area around Jardines de la Merced. The atmospheric squares around Monumento a Manolete, and Cristo de los Faroles, and the stunning facade of Palacio de la Merced, a former convent. Time for a break at La Bendita Locura for Conservas, mini sandwiches and your 15th Tinto de Verano of the trip.
After a power nap, you are ready to be introduced to the old town and the Juderia. You’ll spent some quality time together the next 24 hours. Dinner CAN be at El Rincon De Carmen. While the food didnt exactly rock my world, this is one of the most popular… you guessed it.. patios in the area and my group enjoyed it overall. Try the Huevos Rotos con Jamón. Stronger recommendations coming up.
Start the next day with a morning tour of the Juderia with a Professional Jew (his words), Jorge Gershon of Cordoba Jewish Tours. Jorge is a walking encyclopedia, but also fun and energetic. You’ll get a better understanding of the impact of Maimonides, and the complex and rich history of Jews in Spain. Seeing one of the most important Synagogues in Spain, and Casa de Sefarad which usually comes with a timed surprise are just some of the highlights.
You’ll find beautiful patios all over the city, especially in early May during the festival, but the one area that’s particularly known for them is San Basilio. Even if none of the owners open their doors, its a pleasant neighborhood for a short stroll. But its approaching lunch time and you know who is getting hangry.
Lunch is just across the river since you’ll want to check out the Roman Bridge anyway. Take your time. Bar los Romerillos is open, but the kitchen doesnt open until 1:30. Thats how you know this spot is for locals. If you are early, hang tight and have your 20th Tinto de Verano. Then try the Cogollos Ajillo. If it looks like simple lettuce, it is. But trust me. Also try the Carrillada (pork cheek).
Its almost time for your 3:30 slot at the great Mezquita. This is one of the reasons you are in Cordoba. A Mosque-Cathedral masterpiece, and one of the most unique monuments in Spain. No pictures will properly prepare you, at least as far as the depth goes. Dont miss the Mihrab, which usually faces Mecca these days, but older mosques including this one, not so much. More of historical differences in opinion.
You need a good rest prior to this dinner. The brilliant Garum 2.1 will delight all your senses, with the aid of a rare breed waiter (assuming he’ll be there). Dont skip the Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée. And try some of the award winning tapas like the Salmorejo, and oxtail. Advanced reservations of course required.
Time to say goodbye, and hello to Granada or your next destination. If Granada than a slight detour to Jaén is worthwhile. The EVOO capital of Spain is quite the looker and well outside the tourist route. You got a castle towering right above it offering spectacular views. But the biggest case for Jaén is that it evolved into a food destination. Check out MangasVerdes. More on both Jaén and MangasVerdes to come.
The second most visited site in Spain after La Sagrada Familia is a bucket list item you didnt know you have. It’s the first thing you have to book when planning your Andalucia trip, and it’s the main reason visitors flock to Granada. When we visited in mid April, it was sold out through May according to our trusted guide Asier Garmendia.
No pictures, videos, stories, will properly prepare you for the Alhambra. You will mostly see pictures of what looks like a fortress from a distance. But what you’ll find inside is an entire city dating back to medieval Islam. The only such preserved city in the world that survived 800 years of earthquakes. Constructed by multiple generations of Sultans (Nasrid Dynasty) between 1238 and 1492, its the last Muslim stronghold to rule Spain.
Its essentially a combination of Moorish fortresses, palaces, courtyards, and gardens + one palace by a Spanish ruler, Emperor Charles V, for good measure. It’s something straight out of Game of Thrones. Although unlike other palaces and castles in the area (Seville’s Alcázar, Castillo Almodovar del Rio), Alhambra wasn’t featured in GOT. Other than some documentaries, Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, and some old movies nothing was filmed here. Getting a permit must be pretty tough these days. It took a small miracle for GOT to get the OK from the Alcázar.
Allow 3-4 hours to see it so bring your favorite Granola bars from home, and/or those oily salty almonds you’ll see in markets and stores. It’s one site best appreciated with a guide, and Asier is your man. He will take care of the tickets, and he knows this complex inside out, besides possessing a wealth of information. You’ll see how math, poetry, water and time play such key roles with the architecture. You’ll hear stories that would make Telenovela producers take notes.
The gardens of Generalife alone are worth the price of admission. Ever heard of the Julio Iglesias Rose? You can find it here. Any Washington Irving fans here? I didnt think so. He was inspired to write Tales of the Alhambra while living inside it. People live inside Alhambra even today. Remarkable considering the 6000 guests who come here every day.
Simply put this place is something else. Unlike anything we’ve ever seen. It makes you wish you were a better photographer, or in my case, a photographer. Add it to the top half of the mental list. Somewhere between Český Krumlov and Buenos Aires.
Once in a blue moon you come across the perfect tourist town. It was in Segovia in 2019 where I realized what it takes to be one. Small, unique, food destination, plenty to do and see for tourists, and one you want to experience in the morning and evening where the tour buses leave. Ronda – check, check, check and then some.
The only thing missing that Segovia had was a local vibe in the evening, but that’s because of the clear separation between the touristy historic center and the rest of the city where the locals hang out. For us tourists, we couldnt get enough of the center including its tremendous food offerings. While most people come here on a day trip or stay overnight, by the time you finish reading this post hopefully you’ll see why it’s a mistake. You need at least two nights.
Ronda is the type of place you want to take your spouse on a surprise romantic getaway. Except unless you live in the south of Spain, its fairly hard to do. When we visited the excellent Ramos-Paul winery nearby, we met a couple from Jerez where the guy did exactly that to his wife and one month old daughter. A surprise day trip to Ronda on her birthday. The daughter wasnt amused.
Right near Puente Nuevo, the “new” bridge that took 34 years to built in 1793 after the previous bridge collapsed and killed 50, there’s this interesting mural. It shows the town’s unique landscape and quotes from various romantic travelers that found inspiration in Ronda. That did not include more recent names like Ernest Hemingway and Orson Wells who spent significant time here, and even more recently Michelle Obama. Ronda is so tiny and relatively unknown, when someone like Michelle Obama visits, people still talk about it 15 years later.
Exploring the majestic Puente Nuevo alone, from the top and bottom requires a few good hours. They recently reopened a path that leads closer to the bridge where you can get a close look at the chasm that divides the city. You need to wear a helmet for this one. The first trip where we had to wear a helmet, not once but twice. The other one being an hour away at the eyepopping Caminito del Rey hike. More on that on another day.
But the main reason to stay an extra night or three is the area, Serrania de Ronda, which rivals Tuscany as perhaps the most beautiful region we’ve ever seen. Just north of Ronda you got a wine region that produces surprisingly robust reds, judging from our Ramos-Paul visit. The wines are still affordable because this is not Rioja.
10 minutes out you have the Reservatauro Ronda, a horse and bull farm where you can learn about the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. Further out you have another majestic town, Setenil de las Bodegas where houses are built into the cliffs. And then you have other whitewashed towns like beautiful Olvera not far away. I already mentioned the infamous Caminito an hour away. Plenty to do and see here if you have a few days. Ronda complements the large city filled Andalucian itinerary very well.
Make sure to spend quality time in both the center and old town, the two distinct neighborhoods on both sides of the bridge. Dont dwell too much on individual attractions as every other blog tells you. See the bullring if you must, the second oldest in Spain after Seville, and the oldest constructed entirely of stone. You can also get a good view of it from the rooftop of Hotel Catalonia. Stay at the Parador if you must for the incredible views and to finally say “I stayed at the Parador in Ronda” at cocktail parties. Though between us friends, not the most comfortable hotel.
Dining in Ronda requires its own dedicated blog posts. Pound for pound Ronda may be the top food destination in Andalucía for its size. Between the amazing Casa Mateos, the legendary El Lechuguita, and Benito Gómez’s Tragatá, there’s your 2-3 days of heavenly eating right there. We managed two of the three. Every conversation about food with a local results in “Oh you have to go to Tragatá and Casa Mateos”. One even helped us with what to order at the latter. Spoiler alert: Sickest goat cheese salad ever.
You know what they say. Once you are able to spell it without googling, you are halfway there. I’m not exactly sure who says it, or know what it means (sounds more like a Yogi Berra quote). But when it comes to certain places with difficult spellings, it rings true. It took me years to finally learn how to spell Rendezvous Bay without looking. Roughly 5 years for “Rendezvous”, and a couple of months for “Bay”. I’m now officially a fan.
Coincidentally I almost misspelled “Deux” here. For a blog with the tagline “Dining Well, Spelling Pourly”, maybe I should let some of these spellings stay. But I cant screw up the title for search purposes.
Part Deux was more of the same. Same hotel (Rendezvous Bay Hotel), same beach, same beach shacks, same healing powers. The healing powers were especially important as both stays were right after hardships. We’ve been around, especially in this part of the world. I cant think of another beach or place that can better improve your spiritual health. We needed this.
For city slickers, it can be a religious experience. Until you turn right one day and see a 60+ male wearing a Borat style black thong, and you are stuck with this image for half of the trip. Thats the price you pay when dealing with empty beaches. You are in the mercy of those interrupting the tranquility. Would it kill him to lie on his back just once. On second thought, strike that. Its not a prettier picture.
When the Sunshine Shack is open, you’ll find roughly 90% of the people on this beach there. It evolved from a simple beach shack to one of the most popular simple beach shacks in the Caribbean. Its the Caribbean version of the original Shake Shack. Waits for food can be painful at times so bring your patience, and order a frozen BBC (Baily’s, Banana, Coconut) to fill you up while you wait. Stick to chicken and ribs, as the lobster isnt the best value
There’s not a whole lot I can write that I didnt before, so I’ll just leave you with the original post. More food for thought to come. Just like with the previous installment, its weird to write about some beach at these crazy times. But we can all use a distraction sometimes.
Whether you are a first timer, a ten timer, urologist or whatever, you may find some of these random tips useful. Or not. I have no idea. That’s why I like to use the word “Random”. It relieves some of the pressure to provide the most necessary tips, such as how to carry your wallet, say hello, and my absolute favorites, “Bring Your Camera”, and “Wear Comfy Shoes”. I prefer to focus on tips not covered as much by the mainstream.
Stay in the 11tharrondissement
I suppose what’s a better way to get your attention than start with some controversy. With so many areas to choose from, I suggest staying in one where the closest major attraction is… a cemetery. But that’s precisely the idea here. Its an often overlooked area, mainly outside the tourist route. While you’ll see plenty of tourists, its a nice mix of locals, tourists, boutique shops, cafes, and most importantly one of the better food areas in Paris. Its like the East Village of Paris. After visiting all areas in the center, it felt good coming back here.
Take a food/drink experience
A food experience is something I always look for in my travels. Mainly food tours. The problem of food tours in Paris is that most tours offer mostly the familiar stuff… Croissant, Baguette, cheese, cold cuts…) but the experience as a whole including meeting other visitors, and a fun guide still may make it worthwhile. But instead of a food tour, consider something like a French cheese and wine class to get up to speed with these important and often misunderstood staples. Paroles de Fromagers is not a collection of cheesemongers on parole, but a shop that offers these fun educational experiences including tastings and workshops. And if Agathe is your “teacher”, you are in for a treat.
Spend a night in Chartres
A charming town becomes a magical one at night. Usually between April and January (check the current year plan), the striking cathedral and monuments all over town get illuminated. The cathedral light show alone will make famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. You also have the picturesque medieval center, the tiled Maison Picassiette, and on the way you can stop by the splendid Château de Maintenon (below)
Louvre’s real secrets are the entrances
Much has been said about this one, but why no one takes advantage. While the line by the pyramid snakes around for like a mile, just walk 5 minutes to the “Porte des Lions” entrance where the two lions will greet you with a much nicer welcome. Thats two lions more than most likely the amount of people you’ll encounter. But not from the river side as the gate may be closed. From the Jardin du Carrousel side. Once inside in the lobby turn left. Strangely if you turn right, you may see a sign saying you are at the wrong building. Just turn around.
See “How to become a Parisian in one hour”
Here’s a tip in the true sense. Instead of seeing school level artistry featuring topless women at a small fortune, why not see a show that’s much more of a bang for the buck. Unless of course no topless is a non starter. “How to become a Parisian in one hour” is not exactly a riot, but a witty one man show by an animated comedian. Its a fun hour and change. And in the process you learn a few things about Parisians, metro, shopping, Parisian dog poop, and even get a chance to ask him questions at the end.
Eiffel’s best angle is from Trocadéro
If you are like Mrs Z, you’ll likely drag your significant other to the “Iphone Tower” (because thats all you’ll mostly see) every other day. Even when you stay 30 minutes away. We saw the tower from every angle at different times of the day, and nothing remotely comes close to the view from Trocadéro Square at night where you see the icon in all its glory. (The last time we did that was October 7!). Other areas closer to the tower were much less pleasant.
Adjust your Breakfast needs
Its 8 am, you are tired of Yoghurt, croissant, baguette, butter, jam, rinse, repeat for the past 5 days and you are ready for a nice omelet. An hour later, you give up searching and settle for a croissant, baguette, butter, jam breakfast elsewhere for double the price and no yoghurt. While you can find amazing egg dishes, and other goodies Americans associate with breakfast in Paris, it doesnt mean that you’ll find many kitchens serve these things before 11 am. Even if Google shows that the corner Brasserie is open early, it doesnt means its kitchen is open. Instead follow the local crowds into bakeries.
Put Palais Garnier on the must list
You can easily overlook this gem if you only focus on “guide book musts”. Although not quite as famous as the Louvre, this might be a more memorable experience depending on your interests. Opulence on another level. And that’s just what people are normally wearing for this photo shoot. This is where I want my next wedding to take place!
Learn your RERs and SNCFs
Using the metro in Paris is very convenient. I have to admit that as a New Yorker I was envious. It took us a few trips to Paris to finally use it, but once we did, it became fairly easy with the aid from best friend Google Maps. If only my friend gave me the proper advice when we went to Chantilly. While you can get there with RER, it’s not only not the best way, but you risking a fine when you take the wrong train back which is quite easy to do. For within the city use the RER. For intercity, use the comfy and sometimes even strangely cheaper SNCF.
Yes, have a crepe, but also try a Galette
I’m shocked by the amount of visitors that come to Paris and never try a Galette. Ok, I only met two, but they are out there I’m sure. Galette is the savory, good looking cousin of the Crepe, made with buckwheat flour and filled with cooked ham, egg, and comté cheese. After a big lunch, I cant think of a better alternative to pizza as a light dinner. Its a Brittany import, and the best place to try them are Brittany imports like the Breizh Cafe chain.
Thats all I got today kids. Just remember to wear comfy shoes and dont forget to take your camera!
Paris visitors usually follow the same playbook. See the main sights and save room for a day in Versailles. We also followed the same playbook on our first visit, though Versailles wasnt nearly as busy back then, and my hairline looked much better in the Hall of Mirrors. But when Château of Versailles became a UNESCO World Heritage sight in 1979, another important site, less than an hour out, got the same designation.
That site is the Chartres Cathedral, the first UNESCO cathedral. No need for a welcome to Chartres sign as the towering cathedral you see upon entering the town does the job just fine. A 12th century architectural marvel that includes a record 2,600 square meters of stained glass. It ranks quite up there with the grand cathedrals of Europe. And once you see it at night from April to January, the unforgettable interior almost becomes forgettable.
No pictures, videos, or this post will properly prepare you for the Chartres Lumieres experience. The light shows on the cathedral will make the world famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. But thats not nearly the only building. The entire town including other notable monuments and bridges get their own light displays, and the entire town is transformed into something you see on Xmas movies. Except that its April, June, or maybe August.
The town also boasts a quaint medieval center, and just outside of the center you have the unusual Maison Picassiette – A property entirely decorated with mosaics of glass and china fragments. Sort of similar in a way to Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens. Overall its a fun town to explore, and Le Parc Stanislas, a bed and breakfast will make you wish you booked more nights. Its the calm before the Paris storm.
And if you have a car, on the way to/from Paris check out Château de Maintenon, a hidden gem 30 minutes from Chartres. Even on a beautiful October day the Château was fairly empty. This is the sight of the final scene of The Professional. No, not that The Professional, the good one, with Jean-Paul Belmondo.
Yes, Portland Oregon is weird. Even for a New Yorker. Some of the quirkiness you see in East Village or Washington Square Park like ask a puppet for advice is just another corner in Portland. Same for how people generally look and dress. All you need is a 5 minute walk down Alberta Arts District to see that you are not in Kansas anymore. They have an annual nude bike race for Christ’s sake. Even the birds are weird, and possibly stoned. You’d think when a car is approaching they’d scoot faster out of the way, but they take their time and sometimes cause mini traffic jams.
For a place with the population size of Staten Island, the food scene is just ridiculous. They dont just have food trucks or carts, they got islands of them called pods. Like outdoor food courts. Around 500 food carts dispersed all over the city, and none are the same. Add a tremendous restaurant scene to the mix and you got a foodie paradise. I may have lost some sleep trying to sort out the food schedule. Being close to food rich Alberta complicated matters more. More on the food later.
Japanese Gardens
But that’s not nearly all. Portland is not the most attractive city I’ve seen. But it’s parks and gardens like the Japanese garden are world class. You can do some serious forest bathing here between Mt Tabor, the Grotto (62 acres sanctuary), and the mother of all forests, Forest Park where you can hike to the picture perfect Pittock Mansion. Portland’s collection of trees are impressive to say the least.
Other than the parks, Portland’s charm is in it’s neighborhoods. The Northwest District, especially the area around 23rd Ave is fun to explore, day or night. You’ll get a different feel once you cross the river to the lively Mississippi Ave, Williams, and the vibrant Alberta. Staying in one of those areas instead of the downtown area where most tourists (and many homeless) stay is the conventional wisdom these days.
Multnomah
But to me the biggest draw other than the food scene, is the proximity to various natural wonders. Half an hour away is Columbia River Gorge and its very accessible world class waterfalls. If you wont get Iceland vibes at Latourell Falls with its basalt, you will surely get it at Multnomah. You dont need to walk much from the parking lot for the classic shot. After chasing waterfalls, the town of Hood River conveniently awaits with its breweries and art galleries. You can either continue to Mt Hood, or come back from the Washington side of the river for another picturesque drive.
70 miles south you have Silver Falls State Park and its stunning South Fall. Dont even bother looking at pictures of this one, as its something you need to see and experience. A dramatic ending (or beginning) to a beautiful 3-5 mile hike. Then after a coffee stop in Salem, proceed to Willamette Valley, Oregon’s Wine Country. From little Iceland to little Tuscany, though with more than 500 wineries perhaps not that little. Consider Trisaetum winery, for the wine and the above average Charcuterie board.
Portland’s problems are in full display. But so is everything else that’s not going away, and that you wont see mentioned in the media. Cant wait to come back to see the rest.
Eating With Ziggy 