The car free Zermatt village is one of those bucket list destinations I didnt know I have. I will save the why for another post, but what I can tell you now is that no pictures or videos can prepare you, especially if you get lucky with clear sunny days. The only challenge in such a touristy place was finding decent meals. There’s not a whole lot of reliable info out there. The end result was a mixed bag with only one strong recommendation, but all considering not too bad.
The Good
Alphitta – If you are like me, one who cares mostly about the food, and less about the setting, take a short preference break here. Yes, add Alphitta due to the setting, not so much the food. The walk to it alone sets the mood, and the direct view of the Matterhorn is priceless. The food is good enough. It’s an extremely eclectic menu trying to please tourists from all parts of the world. So whether you have curry, crispy pork belly, pasta, or whatever, it probably wont be the best rendition you ever had, but more than acceptable. Just skip the terrible goat cheese salad unless you prefer overly fruity dressings.
The North Wall – Being a pizza snob in NYC is a blessing and a curse. When we travel, the rare times we have pizza, I almost always expect mediocrity. While the dough at The North Wall can use some work, the Neapolitan(ish) pies are fairly solid, and satisfying overall. Especially considering its made in a gas oven by Brits not Italian.
The Great
Restaurant Waldhaus – I think the best tip for Zermatt is to simply keep walking up toward the south side. By the time you’ll reach Restaurant Waldhaus and a few others in the area like Sonnmatten, you’ll be out of breath but well outside tourist trap central. If you are looking for finer dining, perhaps Sonnmatten would be a better choice, as Waldhaus is as rustic as it gets.
The food is quite rustic as well. The highlights early on were the special of the day, chanterelles, sautéed with a curry sauce and came on top of their salad (or pasta if you prefer). Solid dry rubbed ribs, and meatloaf. A special of liver with risotto (top pic) was another highlight. From the sweets we especially liked the hot apricot cake in a clay pot. All with direct view of the majestic Matterhorn.
Gelato Italiano – The prize after each hike. Other than the apricot, superb gelato throughout. Try the Malaga if you like rum raisin or the cherry.
The Ugly
Grampi’s – Gets generally good reviews but the biggest disappointment in Zermatt. One of those places that feels very touristy including the menu. Everything from the Vitello Tonnato, pastas, to the Tiramisu was just a poor imitation of the real thing. Think Costco Tiramisu. The ribs may have been the only decent thing but not the same caliber as Waldhaus. Our waiter somehow just knew. He kept asking if everything was alright while checking my reaction Larry David style.
Minutes apart, the towns of Montreux and Vevey, on the east side of Lac Léman, aka just dont you dare call it Lake Geneva on this side, compliment each other very well. Montreux got a stunning promenade, while Vevey adds a picturesque old town. If you are staying in a hotel, the Riviera card will provide you easy access to both. You also got the mesmerizing Chillon Castle, and a world class museum, Chaplin’s World nearby, not to mention a stunning wine region. Which means staying for at least three days is ideal. Hence, according to my calculations, you need three meals. I cant say these names will rock your world, as these towns are not exactly culinary destinations. But solid options nonetheless.
Chez Nocente (Vevey)
The amount of Italian eateries all over Switzerland is astonishing. But rarely you come across one that is actually run by an Italian. In this case a Brindisi, Puglia native. The place itself is adorable as I found it by chance the day before we ate there. Smartly furnished, with Italian movie stars, and Pugliese stuff like Trulli displayed throughout. And chances are, you will be the only tourist there.
Start with a glass of Roero-Arnais. Leave the local wine for other establishments. Consider their elaborate salads, eggplant lasagna, and Mozzarella with various pestos. Finish with the pastas like ravioli stuffed with eggplant and scarmozza, and/or the special of the day. I’m on the fence about the Orecchiette with sausage here, but some of the group liked it.
La Table de Montreux
Stylish, Italianish, localish joint, in the center of Montreux. This is where you get your Entrecôte fix. Quality beef arrives sliced, sitting on a hot stone if you want to cook longer (you dont). This is also where we got the best bread of the two week trip. Pizza bread. If its any indication, the pizzas here are solid as well. Finish with the just about perfect, Tiramisu.
Du Pont (Montreux)
If I had to pick one meal, this would be it. Located in the old town, not the most picturesque to be honest. Quite a hike to get up there… for our Uber driver. Quick and easy 10 minute walk down. By the time we left, Du Pont was buzzing with locals. And it’s always amazing to me how in so many European restaurants one person often older than me, runs the entire front with ease.
Enjoy the light, seafoody terrine du leman that comes with a sizeable salad, and/or the Caesar. A top notch beef tartare as good if not better than places we enjoyed in France. But the crème de la crème was the Cocotte Poluet Morelles. Succulent chicken tenders with creamy sauce and morels cooked in a Dutch oven.
Like an alcoholic in a distillery. That’s how I felt when I got off the train in this car free Swiss mountain village, and started walking. The main road is like a red carpet leading to your hotel. It took over 3 hours to get there from Lucerne, but it felt more like a year since thats how long I anticipated this. It’s a bucket list item I never knew I had.
Wengen isnt as posh and famous as Interlaken, Lucerne and the rest of them. It has one 5 star hotel (Belvedere) that recently opened, and sticks out like a sore thumb among all the wooden chalets. It will be a shame if more opened. Says the food blogger that had dinner at the Belvedere one night. It was in the name of research of course. For the children.
Not only you can easily spend 4 nights in Wengen, but make that your minimum. Take the cable car to Männlichen and hike to Kleine Scheidegg and Fallbodensee. On another day, see the other side of the valley (Mürren, Schilthorn, Gimmelwald). Save the rainy day to Thun and the mesmerizing Lake Thun. In destinations as such you need to have some cushion in case of bad weather.
Listen to uncle Ziggy (instead of say my main competitor Travel + leisure that recommends the Belvedere). Stay in Alpenruhe. The hospitality and attention to detail by the young couple running the place is tough to match. The views from the third floor, and the top notch breakfasts are reasons enough.
And might as well have all your meals at Alpenkräuter Restaurant Bären. We haven’t tried many, but this one is quite popular with the locals and the only one that felt like a well functioning, real restaurant, as opposed to a tourist trap or a hotel restaurant. Even though it is in fact inside a hotel.
Following a family event at the spectacular Garden of the Gods in Colorado, the Ziggy clan picked up a car in Vegas and went on a little adventure. Three days in Zion, two in Bryce, followed by two fun days in LV. After numerous attempts to see Zion in previous years (I’m looking at you Jules), we finally made it. Verdict: Some pain involved, but spectacular to say the least. Here are some tips:
See Valley of Fire State Park on the way – Coming from Las Vegas this is a worthy detour. Even in blistering heat where you’ll encounter “Heat Warning. You might die” signs, you should do it. There are a few short hikes, small stops and plenty to see from the road.
Stay in La Verkin – This might be a bit controversial. Obviously I cant compare to other destinations like Springdale which is at the foot of the entrance to the park. But even though we drove the 30 minutes to the park more than we planned, we were very happy staying in La Verkin. First of all, the drive itself to the park is stunning. Second, it’s much cheaper, especially if you need three rooms like I did. But most importantly, it’s close to other worthy attraction (more below) that are much more relaxing, requiring less effort than Zion. It also got the excellent River Rock Roasting Company, a fine Indian restaurant, and much more.
See Snow Canyon State Park – This is one of the biggest reasons to stay in La Verkin. 40 minutes away is one of the coolest state parks we’ve ever seen. And thanks to Zion, not that many even know about it. Jenny’s Canyon Trail is pretty neat, but will be fairly forgettable once you walk on the spectacular Petrified Sand Dunes. Have brunch/lunch at Black Bear Diner in St. George
Get to Zion Canyon Visitor Center by 8 am – Problem #1. The parking lot at the visitor center fills up early. We were there by 7:30 both days and there werent a whole lot of spots left. On one of the days I was told it was full by 8. By the time you’ll read this, this may change, so best to check with social media boards like TripAdvisor.
Yes, absolutely do The Narrows – Its too hard, its too wet, its too much preparation, its not worth it. Dont let the demons win this one. It will be one of the coolest (literally and figuratively) hikes you’ll ever do. For me, a top 3 hike, perhaps bested only by Caminito del Rey in Spain.
Yes, you have to rent the equipment for the Narrows – Even the stick. Might be obvious to many, but we were surprised to see so many people, including families stumbling and falling all over.
Dont end at Scout Lookout – Scout Lookout on the way to Angels Landing is more strenuous than advertised. It’s quite the climb. You will rest often, and you want to do this when you are well rested. Once you make it to the top, unless you continue to Angels Landing, continue up on the West Rim Trail for a much more serene and beautiful plateau. We were surprised to find ourselves all alone there, considering how crowded Scout Lookout was.
Rest prior to taking the shuttle back – After a long day or hike, taking the shuttle back might be challenging. You may not find a seat, and unlike in the morning, the shuttle will stop at every stop. I’ve had root canals more pleasant than the long rides back after the punishing hikes.
Visit Virgin – I didnt mean this post to sound like a La Verkin tourism ad, but this is another reason to stay west. It’s a tiny town with roughly 700 residents, but so much is happening here. You got tubing, Jeep tours, an excellent restaurant (Balcony One) and one of the coolest souvenir shop I’ve ever seen, Fort Zion. Great for families and adults alike. Its also the gateway to the stunning North Kolob Terrace road.
Come early or late for Pine Creek Canyon Overlook – Very limited parking here. Sunset or Sunrise here are great, though just prior to sunset, the lighting wasnt that great. You may also want to do this on the way out east to your next destination.
Zion got the world famous hikes, Arches got arches, and Bryce got the Hoodoos. But that dosnt really describe Bryce very well. Bryce looks like ruins of a god made mammoth sand castle. Its an absolute stunner at any given time of the day. It will make you reach for the camera/phone even though you already took the same picture 10 times. This has to be one of the most unique National Parks in the world.
A nice intro to Bryce is the Red Canyon nearby. A morning hike combining Navajo Loop and Queens Garden via Wall Street was perfect for people pretending to be young and fit. Plenty of parking at the Lodge while everyone parks or looking for parking at Sunrise and Sunset points. In the afternoon we did the various points like Inspiration, and Natural Bridge. And just when you thought you’ve seen everything you need to see, comes Bryce Point, the mother of all viewpoints, maybe in the entire country.
One thing that struck was how cheap everything was at Bryce Canyon City. When was the last time you saw 60 cent water bottles?!? And Affogatos with giant scoops for $5. All at Old Bryce Town Ice Cream & Candy Shop. Overall the food wasnt particularly great in the Bryce area and Panguitch where we stayed as much as I tried to find decent eats.
The one good eats we found was breakfast at The Panguitch House Bed and Breakfast where we stayed for two nights. Panguitch the town was… interesting. For city slickers like us it was like a different country. But the B&B was a nice change of pace from the chains hotels.
The coolest thing we’ve done in the Bryce area was seeing the stars and learning about them with Dark Ranger Telescope Tours. Fun till you freeze close to midnight and need to escape like Cinderella. Careful when driving at night. We had a close call with a huge something. No one could tell what that was. My money was on Big Foot.
When you visit a place when the chef/owner is on vacation in NYC its not necessarily a bad thing. In super competitive NYC it most likely means the well oiled machine is intact and the boss can take a breather. In Frena’s case it meant we visited at the right time. I gave it about a year after old EWZ darling Taboon closed due to a nasty fire and reincarnated three years later as Frena. Not being in the business, it’s a small mystery why restaurants take so long to recover after a fire (See Danji). Some never do.
I’ve been a fan of Taboon pretty much since I started this blog. One of the points I always stressed was that if you survive that long in that location, you are doing something right. Anything west of 9th Ave, the Hell’s Kitchen border for most tourists, should pique your interest. Efi Naon, the mega talented head chef at Taboon understood that he had something special there, and reopened the place along with a frequent Taboon patron.
Taboon 2.0 feels more like 1.2. A new version where much of the old menu items are still there, and the concept is pretty much the same. Elevated “Middle-terranean” with the Taboon oven in the center of things. even the name Frena has a similar meaning to the old name. Frena is the community oven in a Moroccan village (Naon is Moroccan Israeli), and also the name of the fluffy Moroccan pita. In my East Village tours I introduced guests to the Frena pita, which I can still smell.
This meal was not a whole lot different than my Taboon meals over the years, except that it was simply better. Just about every item felt like an improved version of the previous, along with some new Italian flair to boot. Its an ambitious menu that’s common in Middle Eastern. Leave it to Anon, who trained all over Europe including a three Michelin in France, to perfect it.
Just like Taboon, every meal at Frena starts with their terrific “Frena Bread”. A rarity for such quality bread, dusted with a bit of salt and za’atar, to be free these days. But if your group is more than two, chances are you’ll need another ($9), especially if you get the 5 dips deal. All dips were exceptional, especially the Cauliflower hummus.
For the middle course we opted for the said Italian flair. I mean how bad can braised oxtail Tortellini on top of Sabzi Persian herb stew be? Turned out to be one of the highlights of the night. Roasted eggplant with tomato and Stracciatella was like eggplant Parm on steroids. You wouldn’t be disappointed with those dishes at a Rezdora, or any of the Michelin Italian.
Its best to share some of the big plates here. Old signature Lamb kebabs cooked in Terra Cotta pots covered with bread as satisfying as ever. We absolutely demolished it. The butterflied Branzino lightly drizzled with sage chimichurri looked like a piece of art at the Louvre, and significantly more exciting than the old Branzino.
Just like in Taboon, you finish with the transformative Silan – Tahini ice cream, caramelized rice crispies, almonds, halva, date syrup. A marching band in your mouth. There are some dishes that changed the way I eat at home, and this is one of them (Mesa Grill’s eggs is another). Every other dessert will pale in comparison, but a good Knaffe rarely disappoints, and no exception here.
All good things come to an end. Eventually! My favorite, precious, perfectly fit sneakers have holes in the front approaching toe size. I made a deal not to wear them while I’m with her, or in close proximity to other humans. I only wear them on my daily walks, but their end is near. Honestly, considering she randomly throws away anything remotely old, I’m surprised I still have them. Heck, I’m surprised I’m still around.
Hibernia fits my taste like those sneakers. Except that it didnt have any holes in it at all. In fact it always felt fresh, and even trendy, after 38 years. One of my favorite restaurants in the world had the total package. Outstanding, creative cuisine in a mythical setting. They perfected the South East Asian / French mashup before it even became a thing in Paris.
Last month, owners Mary Pat and Raoul announced they will finally retire and close the restaurant in May after 38 years. While disappointing, it’s totally understandable. This is not the kind of place you can easily hand to someone else. But for us, this is a huge blow as we are essentially left with half a Jacala (since the first half of the name Jacques retired). While there’s no shortage of all kinds of great dining on Anguilla, these are our two favorites by a wide margin.
I dont usually write such posts. Who wants to know about a place that’s closing, in the Caribbean no less. But this is different. Long time readers, especially the Anguilla fans here, saw how Hibernia become an EWZ darling over the years. And in the small chance that any of you are still planning your spring vacation, this is your last chance to experience one heck of a dining experience.
I’m suffering through a writers title block of the worst kind. It took me longer than I’d like to admit to come with this half joke. One of the options I was considering was “A Diamond in the Rough”, but I quickly remembered that about a year ago I found out that it doesnt mean what I always thought it meant. I’ve been living a lie my entire life. Like the moment you find out that a tablespoon equals three teaspoons. I always thought it was just a slightly bigger spoon.
The title is essentially half giving up, and half inspired by the title of my favorite restaurant in Florence, Italy (so people dont get confused with food mecca Florence, South Carolina), Da Ruggero. When we first visited Da Ruggero 12 years ago, I vividly remember the Seattle Times article hanging on the wall with the title “Da Ruggero – A good place to eat”. A simple, humble title is the epitome of the simple Italian Trattoria.
In Turks and Caicos, a good place to eat takes on a different meaning. It includes a bit more flair to entertain the tourists. There’s pretty much nothing to do at night on the island but eat and drink. Why do people opt for hotels with big pools? They need to be big enough to circle at night multiple times. Aka, The Turks and Caicos Passeggiata.
Marine Room is a rare, new find (my old definition of Diamond in the Rough). There’s a reason why I keep recommending the same two places in Provo, Caicos Cafe and Le Bouchon. Around 20 reasons. Vast majority of new places simply dont impress enough. Prices have gone through the roof in Provo, so it’s increasingly hard to find a ‘total package’ kind of place. That includes places that excel in things I cant easily get at home, namely seafood. If your top dishes are Braised Short Rib and creamy Gnocchi (looking at you Almond Tree), I wont be in a hurry to return as a visitor, but I might visit more often as a local.
Marine Room opened by the couple that owns Lemon To Go, and formerly Lemon about a year ago. So far it seems like the total package. Beautifully designed space outside and in. A full, seemingly capable staff including an experienced head chef that created a playful but very solid menu. You wont find Ribeye Cap outside of few select steakhouses in large US cities. And Some truly impressive cocktails and cocktail menu. I rarely take a picture of the cocktail menu, but took one here.
We started with a superb Lobster Thermidor Tart. Lobster mixed with cheese and bisque on top of puff pastry. It’s like Dennis the chef and Carmen from Bay Bistro went to the same culinary school (She serves a similar but different Shrimp dish). The Tuna Tartare with Avocado was a revelation. The second best compliment I can give to Tuna Tartare with Avocado (first being the flavor and execution) is that there’s very little avocado. Probably my favorite dish of the night.
This is is one of the situations where the mains were slightly less successful, but only because the apps were that good. The expertly cooked Cod with lentils was just what you’d expect from a place like this. Maybe slightly overcooked fish but super flaky and enjoyable nonetheless. The black beluga lentils especially elevated the dish.
Had to order the signature Sideways Lasagna, or the “Tall and skinny Lasagna that fell on the way to the table”, depending on how you look at it. It’s just a very good Lasagna. Not particularly unique or distinct tasting, although outside of Italy its an impossible task. Being surrounded by “Mine is better” murmurs didnt help. But think about what you need to go through to make something like this at home. I still recommend, and would even order again.
The Key Lime Pie was a fine finisher. The rest of the menu is a nice blend of Italian, seafood, and the steakhouse variety. One of those rare menus where I want to try every single item. More data is needed, and I obviously cant speak for consistency. But for now, a solid, rare addition to the list of recommended dinners. Go!
Another great Turks and Caicos trip in the books. We sort of settled between alternating between Anguilla and TCI these days. TCI is my home away from home, my partner if you will, while Anguilla feels like the mistress. I’m starting to think this is the closest I will ever get to a mistress. A bit shorter than usual (the trip, not the mistress), but this was some of the best eating in roughly 25 trips. Over the years, new places have been hit or miss to put it mildly. But this time we encountered new places that dished out some fairly impressive stuff. Only problem, not small, it all comes at a small fortune these days. Meals under $200-250 for two are becoming a rarity in Provo.
The Farm
An unplanned breakfast, lunch and dinner at the newest addition to Seven Stars. A striking, comfortable, bright and airy place with a very capable kitchen at the hands of island veteran Edwin Gallardo. Terrific short rib sandwich and a salad with the kind of dressing that almost made Mrs Z pull a Meg Ryan. Serviceable breakfast (SS guests get a $25 credit) other than the surprisingly stale sourdough.
The best part was Indian Sundays which happened to be during the Super Bowl in our case. I wasnt expecting much from a theme night, but this was as solid as I ever had in the Caribbean. The Butter Chicken alone is worth the “price of admission”. It has more of a peppery, “Chettinad” like flavor profile and is simply outstanding. The shrimp fry and carrot cake not too shabby either.
Omar’s Beach Hut
Beach shacks or huts is one area Anguilla got the edge, while Provo’s shacks are closer to regular restaurants. Although, places like Omar’s and the famous Da Conch Shack are quite picturesque and worth leaving the resorts for. Omar’s has arguably the best Oxtail dish on the island, but pretty much everything I’ve had here from fish tacos (top) to conch fritters have been solid. Omar is sort of an island legend and the local following reflects that.
Le Bouchon
A must on every single visit. We’ve been enjoying Le Bouchon cooking before Le Bouchon was even born (when the chef owned Caicos Cafe). We found Pierrik Marziou’s legacy even in Paris. Last time we stayed in the 11th arr., walking distance to a place called Justine formerly owned by Pierrik and named after his daughter who owns a shop right near Caicos Cafe. “Its… a small world after all” Everybody…
Another stellar meal. Killer Escargot as usual. Perfectly tender octopus sitting on a nice and crunchy salad. Love salads with texture. And I can’t think of another signature dish on the island that’s more renowned than the Steak au Poivre. It’s the sum of all parts dish including the fries, au gratin and veggies. Highly recommend Le Bouchon, for like the 25th time.
Hemingways
Nothing to see here. A traditional lunch since the first trip where we stayed at the Sands (before Seven Stars was built) on one of the best oceanside decks on the stretch. Over the years we settled on fish and chips and fish tacos, no matter how many times we examined the menu. Yes, its Swai, but who cares if you rarely eat it. Swai can be delicious when prepared right and is flakier than most Snappers out there.
Bay Bistro
The new and improved* Bay Bistro 2.0 is off to a promising start with an asterisk attached. Carmen Norocea (formerly with Magnolia) is leading the new team, and she completely revamped the menu. While the food was mostly great, the overall experience was somewhat lacking. Not much of a break between courses and we were done eating in under an hour. Not much of an ambiance or personal touch from the staff. Normally I’d be fine wit that. But like Indigo, Omar’s and other new places its nice to meet the people that can introduce you to the concept and/or menu. Carmen was not there, and the active manager was mostly entertaining one guest.
The food was indeed mostly good, but not perfect. The clear miss was an overcharred, dry and uneventful lobster that relied on melted butter more than I normally like. Surprising considering lobster was historically the one sure thing at BB. The rest was great. Tiger Shrimp tartelette wasn’t much of a tartelette, but sitting on top of one. Quite excellent mostly due to the smart shrimp seasoning.
Tuna Tataki was very interesting. Something you may find at a finer joint with the flavors to match. The one dish I’d come for were the Jerk lamb chops. Superb, even with the uneven cooking. The dessert of banana and toffee in a jar needed some adjustments like a more accessible, not frozen at the bottom, Graham cracker crust, and more cream.
Lua at the South Bank Resort
I love trying new places but this is one pricy lunch at a resort I probably should have skipped. I was curious about the resort itself and I was advised to go by a trusted local. But at the end of the day, this is just another restaurant at a pricy resort where you get good service with hit or miss dishes. In our case it was a fine Caesars salad, a refreshing creamy feta with hot honey. But a basic, slightly oversalted $40 Snapper filet on top of Caponata was a pricy miss. Caponata was a nice touch, but the dish was desperately missing something starchy and got boring in a hurry.
Marine Room
Out of the new places we tried, this was our favorite by a mile. From the stunning decor, drinks, food and ambiance this was just about flawless. A packed house, not in a beach resort, means they are doing something right. I will save the rest to a dedicated post. Spoiler: The signature Sideways Lasagna wasnt the best dish. How will you sleep tonight? I recommend Zzzquil. Bout time I add some ads here. Zzzquil – when you are over 50, doing eye exercises at 3 am, the 20th Tiktok trick you’ve seen.
Caicos Cafe
The traditional first and last night meal. Not much has changed except that its as busy as ever. On our first night, we sat next to the entrance and witnessed the amount of people being turned away. Make reservations people, especially in places like Caicos Cafe and Le Bouchon which are very popular with locals. One thing I’m beginning to realize with CC, as it gets more and more popular with locals, we are more in the mercy of the local taste. Case in point, the famous grilled calamari is now fried.
But there’s no shortage of hits. On our first night we discovered a well crafted Duck Foie Gras terrine. The Gnocchi is still the same fresh pillowy goodness. The conch chowder is as good as ever, and the Lobster fra diavolo is still a crowd pleaser. Pay attention to the specials. They may include a fresh Wahoo perfectly cooked on top of an addictive Amalfi style veggie stew. Or a beautiful chewy Strozzapreti with bits of octopus, beans, olives, tomatoes and more. Strozzapreti of course was created when someone saw a priest being slowly strangled. On our second night we came with local friends, so we were able to sample all the specials.
And talking of special, a special shutout to the lovely couple we met on our first night who are avid readers of the blog. Pleasure was all mine, obviously 🙂
Chinson’s
Avid readers, both of them, know I’m a big fan of Chinson’s. A trip feels incomplete without at least one visit for lunch. Not only great food, but the prices are more than fair as opposed to much of the island these days. Great Jerk as usual, and the Goat Curry is still the GOAT.
Eating With Ziggy 