Although I dont have a Virginia category on this blog, I feel this is one foodie and nature destination New Yorkers should pay more attention. Even though some of the sites are as close to us as the Finger Lakes, Virginia still feels worlds away. But not many realize that its home to our closets National Park, Shenandoah. While not as jaw-dropping as Acadia, and most National Parks out there frankly, it’s something. When it comes to nature near NYC beggars cant be choosers.
I first visited the Northern Virginia area around 5 years ago. I came to visit Shenandoah as part of a long road trip, and in addition I discovered Tuscan like rolling hills and a plethora of wineries. I’ve never seen any on any menu, but Virginia boasts over 300 wineries, many of which offer the kind of settings that make any wine taste better. This time we visited some of them and then some…
Day 1
Nick’s Fish House (Baltimore) – Not in Virginia, but daddy needs to refuel. This is our usual stop on the way down (or up). We usually order the famous Maryland crab, but this time we settled on soups, crab cakes, shrimp and for the first time their crab filled Pretzel. Other than the Pretzel which wasnt an upgrade over a fine regular pretzel like Werkstatt’s in Brooklyn, I would gladly order everything again. Cream of crab for her, Maryland style Gumbo for me. Perfectly blackened Shrimp. And these crab cakes will make every other crab cake in NYC and elsewhere taste pedestrian.
Great Falls Park – First stop in Virginia is Iguazu de Virginia. No multi-mile hike is necessary to see the great falls. Like a stroll (an expensive one ) in a park with your loved one. By the way in case you didnt know “Virginia is For Lovers” is the state slogan, hence the title. These are some of the best falls in relation to ease of seeing them that I’ve seen in the US.
Stone Tower Winery – This is a very popular place and that popularity prevented us from trying the wine. In addition to a wedding, just super busy understandably on a Saturday afternoon. Still, I can see why this is a popular wedding venue
Hillsborough Vineyards & Brewery – Thats more like it. Still busy, but a lot more intimate family owned winery. Striking views throughout, and a cool market on this Saturday (maybe every Saturday?). The wine was as good as I expected from a Virginia winery. One of three whites was decent, and the reds faired better overall.
Loudoun Valley Manor – Our accommodations for this night. Just a very pleasant country side bed and breakfast with the owner Olga dishing out killer omelets. Just 12 minutes from Leesburg.
The Wine Kitchen (Leesburg) – One of the more acclaimed restaurants in Leesburg. Good drinks, service, and good enough food. Mushrooms dominate the menu at this time of the year. From simple sauteed mushrooms to Mafaldine with Mushroom that was too similar profile to the app. The undisputed winner was the Rigatoni Bolognese.
Day 2
Leesburg – Virginia has no shortage of small historic towns with attractive centers, and Leesburg is one of them. Lively enough for an evening or morning stroll. Dont miss Morven Park, around 6 minute drive from the center. Sprowling grounds that include a mansion and a garden that’s totally free to the public. Maybe this “Virginia is for Lovers” thing has something to it.
Spelunker’s (Front Royal) – A nice 90 minute drive to Front Royal, at the foot of Shenandoah. Where are all the people? Oh, at Spelunker’s looks like. Its one of those rare old school burger joints that hasnt lost a beat since it opened in 2002. We’ve been here before and the burger is still the same old juicy beefy goodness. Just a little busy on a Sunday 1pm. A more intimate burger option is Blue’s Dog Bowl truck in Luray, the next destination…
Luray Caverns – In Shenandoah country the stuff you find under ground is just as impressive as above. Holy moly this was something else, and so totally unexpected. A 40 minute walk showcasing all sorts of shapes, colors, and upside down and right side up cathedrals, some of which reflect from bodies of water you didnt know are there. This is an absolute must.
Glen Gordon Manor – A repeat stay at this food focused boutique hotel where the owner is the chef. The first time was one of our favorite stays anywhere in the US, while the second one felt more like coming home. Its a decent size property but only a few rooms in a few scattered buildings. Its so serene that you literally dont hear anything but your stomach growling in anticipation for their three course breakfasts and five course dinners.
The Blue Door – Talking about musts, this is the one dining destination in the area you should absolutely consider. Its a mom and pop that is also an inn. Pop the chef is from north Italy (very north). Mom effortlessly runs the front. Other than the octopus which was deskinned (just a personal pref), I’d gladly order everything again. The Halibut and the superb shrimp pasta especially.
Day 3
Shenandoah National Park – It’s tough to time the fall foliage, as we got much luckier the first time around, but the park is pretty at any time of the year. The Skyline drive is one of the most beautiful drives on the east coast. And while not exactly world class, the hikes are pleasant enough. Dont miss the Dark Hollow Falls. On the way to the park, stop for apples (or other seasonal items) and Jams at any of the numerous stands.
Dinner at Glen Gordon Manor – I already touched on breakfast which will be different every morning, but the 5 course dinner is the real deal. While not exactly a value play, the expertise and passion of the chef/owner is showing throughout. And the wine offerings especially from Willamette Valley is a nice touch.
On the way back to NYC this time we stopped at the charming Hillwood Estate, Museum & Gardens in Washington. And a Philly Cheesesteak at old fave John’s Roast Pork in Philly, but only because Angelo’s Pizzeria was closed.
