It was one of those wildly premature excitements we experienced when we pulled over at 8 pm Saturday in front of 2 week old Nishi. No line, on the worst time possible to visit the hottest restaurant on the east coast right now. “Its gonna be about 10 or so” he says, “Oh, 10 minutes? thats great” “No, I mean we can sit you at 10! But its most likely gonna be 10:30”. They just began a texting service… well whoop dee freakin doo. Thats about 90 minutes more than I’m willing to wait with a kid. Strong plan B it is.
Something tells me the great Hooni Kim doesnt mind the plan B tag here considering plan A was the latest David Chang (Momofuku) venture that is taking the city by the Chaloopas. To give you an idea, the buzz on Nishi started before there was even any sign of a Nishi or anything else really. No one knew what its gonna be. The buzz started when Momofuku took on a lease on the space in Chelsea. Z-List winnerJun-Men Ramen was another plan B contender since Mrs Ziggy still hasnt been (I’ve been 4 times). But after flirting with Danji about a dozen times, I figured it was time to check out its younger sister, who coincidentally also keeps her goodies in her drawers!
Hanjan, albeit newer, is more rustic and casual than Danji. Communal table in the middle flanked by rows of individual tables with semi comfortable couches (chairs are more comfy), with dim lighting (I think its about time restaurants create blogger/vision impaired spots with ample lighting) contribute to the fun vibe. As with Danji, the focus is on locally sourced, sustainable seasonal ingredients from local farms. As I’ve been saying for a while, Farm-to-Table is a funny concept considering there are so many places doing the same thing but not billing themselves as such. Any good ingredient driven establishment like Danji, Hanjan, and many all over town are essentially Farm-to-Table. But I have zero issues with those places like The Marshal that call themselves as such to separate from the competitors nearby
Started this one with a bang. Kim’s take on Ddukbokki, Spicy Rice cake w. Pork Fat and fishcakes. I thought I’ve had all the various shapes and textures of Korean/Chinese rice cakes but I guess I was wrong. This one was “meatier”, chewier texture smothered with that classic intense Korean hot, sour, sweet chili sauce. Very good and Mrs Z, and youngest favorite of the night, though I still prefer the Gnocchi like porkiness of Ssam Bar which is in a league of its own (yet another disagreement with these guys). Pork and shrimp fried dumplings tasted much better than they looked. Spicy Chicken Thigh Skewers were good if not slightly overcooked (slightly). Hanjan gets its chicken from a top Brooklyn purveyor, freshly killed over the last 24 hours, so never frozen.
BBQ Wagyu Short Rib comes as part of a Ssam set of goodies was a high quality, nicely marbled piece of meat. Good, but not particularly as memorable as the next dish. Long time EWZ historians know how fond I am of a nicely constructed fried rice dish, and this was one of the best I’ve had in NYC. Kimchi & Beef Brisket Fried Rice with a fried egg delivered big time flavors with nice socarrat action. The key here was little crunchy cubes of Kimchi pickled Daikon (Korean radish) that tied all the flavors together.
Hanjan 36 W 26th St $$$ Reccommended Dishes: Rice Cakes, Dumplings, Short Rib, Fried Rice
It wasnt easy this time to come up with 7, so I included a bonus dish. You can find it on the excellent Anguilla-Beaches site which is as official as it can get for the island’s site.
And just like that, its over Johnny. 2015 was yet another year of great eats, great drinks, and yes great chicken wings. I’m grateful! Grateful for living in the greatest food city in the world. Grateful for living with someone who not only supports this addiction but also willing to sleep with that thing. Grateful for the kids who will eat anything as long as its not made by mom and dad. Grateful for the friends and family. What will 2016 bring? Sicily! Other than that who knows. Most likely more chicken wings. Here are the most memorable meals of 2016…
Momofuku Ko (NYC) – Quite possibly the best meal we ever had in NYC was at this new Ko 2.0 location. An 18 courser, counter sitting, feast for all senses extravaganza. Perhaps the best, most unique dining experience NY has to offer at the moment
Bruno Pizza (NYC) – The best meal with the most unassuming name. While there wasnt anything earth shattering food wise, the entire meal from start to finish was just brilliant. And before Danny Meyer made the news with his no tipping policy, there was Bruno implementing its own spin on the controversy.
Aquavit (NYC) – Emma Bengtsson’s Chef’s tasting menu is quite possibly the most underrated tasting menu in town. The kicker here is that not only you are presented with tasty opulence coming out one after another, but you also got the anticipation and the arrival of one of the most Instagrammed desserts on the planet
Caicos Cafe (Turks and Caicos) – An odd mention considering we’ve been here over a dozen times, but still very much memorable in my mind. Two meals on every visit is our ritual these days, and both meals this past year featured all our favorites and then some. It just gets better and better.
La Taqueria (SF) – Strange for me to choose this one over the great meals we had at Cockscomb and NOPA. But this rather hectic light lunch was the one that gave me food envy like no other. I’ve been eating tacos and burritos for many years, but the carnitas tacos and Carne Asada Burrito here was like eating this stuff for the very first time. Cliche, but true.
Pulker’s Heuriger (Rührsdorf, Austria) – Our first foray into the Austrian Heuriger scene was memorable to say the least. A wine grower’s wine tavern that serves menuless, fresh, local homemade food. This one is right by the Danube, in the picturesque Wachau Valley. This is why you rent a car
Hibernia (Anguilla) – Still fresh in our minds, we are still awestruck by this one. A 30 minute drive East brings you to this foodie paradise. Brilliantly executed Asian inspired food with a French flair in an absolute stunner of a setting, surrounded by essentially an art gallery. A dining experience like no other
In my adopted home of Turks and Caicos (I’m not worthy) there’s a little famous place called The Conch Shack, nicely situated right on the beach. Its an island institution of sorts, appearing on various “best Caribbean shack” lists and quite popular with tourists and locals alike. The same fame also means an occasional “Tourist Trap” tag given by visitors with less than stellar experiences. A rather unfitting tag considering the establishment lacks the number one ingredient for a “tourist trap”… location. To get to the Conch Shack visitors need to hire a car, or take an expensive cab ride. There are other reasons why the Conch Shack is far from a tourist trap, like the constant need to protect a reputation, but the bottom line as far as I’m concerned is location, location, location.
Times Square and much of Midtown Manhattan is on the other end of the spectrum. As tourism continues the steady yearly rise, rents continue to skyrocket, and restaurateurs need to stay on top of the tourist game. In a sea of establishments that are strictly in the business of making tourists happy (think today’s Little Italy), there are plenty of reputable establishments that can’t afford to release clunkers out of their kitchens. Spots like Ma Peche, Marea, Betony may not satisfy everyone, but you get the sense they care about every single dish they put on the table. Up until last weekend I thought Quality Italian and Quality Meats were in that same company.
It took about 5 minutes to realize that I’m sitting in a slightly fancier, tourist filled Rosa Mexicana. Except that in RM I would be attended to initially without asking for it. For the 5 of us this evening, we opted to share a yellowtail crudo (good, though I prefer the flat skinny cuts over cubes), Ricotta (very good), a few pastas, one steak and the world famous chicken parm shaped like a 12 inch pizza pie.
The Bucatini & Clams was actually quite good. Covered by a rich, pleasantly peppery ragu with potatoes. But it comes with a price tag, $33, which is $11 more than the listed online price (at the time of this writing showing $22). Same price discrepancy with the Agnolotti and the rest of the pastas, not so much with other items on the menu
On occasion we do see price discrepancies between actual and online menus, but not quite to this 50% extreme. Perhaps I dont frequent mega touristy area restaurants often enough, but how the hell do they get away with this. Whether this is a mistake or not, after several tries I have not given any explanations from Quality Meats representatives. The closest to that was a “Oooh really, we’ll let our marketing dep’t know”
On top of that I was not even given the opportunity for redemption. A bone-in filet was dry and flavorless. Dont believe me? ask my 13 year steak aficionado daughter who picked up on that before I took my first bite. A recall a similar cut at Del Frisco’s nearby that was much more successful. At a place known for their ways with the meat, this was as shocking as the pasta-gate.
The legendary Chicken Parm has been talked about since QI opened. Bloggers, Yelpers, Eater, children books written about this famous dish. The cost: $64. The verdict: It tastes approx $10 better than Mrs Ziggy’s version. Its a decent bite initially, but the sweetness of the sauce takes charge before you even finish the first slice. And if the sauce is not sweet enough, among an arsenal of condiments to justify the cost, you also get honey.
As we say bye bye to 2015, let this post be the beginning of the new and angrier improved Eating With Ziggy. The reason I finally got to experience Quality Italian was because I was looking at something to eat before the new musical School of Rock and seeing the new tree which to me looks exactly the same as the previous 30. And if there’s one thing I learned from School of Rock is that when the time comes, sometimes, you just gotta STICK IT TO THE MAN!
Quality Italian 57 W 57th St Recommended Dishes: Ricotta
The triumphant post pandemic return to one of my favorite restaurants in the world. This time for dinner. Although we’ll be doing dinners only most likely at this point, you all need to experience this place for lunch. It’s an experience, even if yo are not the biggest fan of this kind of food. Though knowing many of my readers personally, chances of you not loving this menu is remote. Not too often we encounter a menu where we want to try every single dish.
Its an ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’ kinda menu, with some ingredient change but the menu stays the course overall. We usually start and end the same way. Foie Gras, smoked fish, with the brilliant rum raisin ice cream with aged rum for the finish. This time we felt a little naughty and added some prunes with chocolate (looks like we had it before). This is probably the only time we eat prunes other than.. you know.
Its always that middle course that constantly changes. This time a superb Wahoo, distinctly spiced and the accompanied sauce and sweet potato purée made this sweet potato hater appreciate sweet potato. The duck was another winner. Cooked pink but too dark to notice, with a gorgeous sauce and passion fruit spiked grilled polenta. It’s the sum of all parts like the rest of the mains.
Raoul has been dishing out Asian inspired French cooking before it was a thing in Paris. At around 37 years old, it is the longest running restaurant under the same management in Anguilla. It’s worth travelling to Anguilla, braving the Planes, Ferries and Automobiles, just to experience this place.
December 17, 2019 Update
Another epic meal at one of my Caribbean faves. Its a timeless menu in a timeless setting. We went for lunch again to mimic the previous experience and ordered pretty much the same dishes. The one addition was a grilled Mahi seasoned with turmeric and other seasoning. Its worth getting it just for the accompanied butternut squash, bok choy and shiitake gratin. It’s a sum-of-all-parts kind of dish with the mild seasoning letting the fresh fish do the talking. The trio of smoked fish and and the outrageous Foie Gras are still the strongest stuff on the menu. Impeccable attention to detail throughout. This is a major go for lunch or dinner!
December 27, 2015 post
While we were wrapping up another gruesome beach day on Anguilla (someone has to do it), we noticed something peculiar happening next door. A private table for two was being set up right on the beach. Toes in the sand, under the stars, with soothing gentle waves just steps away. Just you and the person you love. Oh how lovely, how beautiful, how romantic… say other people. For us however its the equivalent of being locked in an apartment for four days with only one channel showing Full House nonstop. Lets forget the fact that you are potentially wasting a meal on an island known for some of the best food in the Caribbean. Potentially! I’m sure there are excellent private caterers somewhere out there. The entire experience simply sounds torturous to us. The sand flies, the darkness, the isolation, wind blowing sand. Other people passing by going awwwwwe, taking pictures of you. Toes in the sand.. pretty sure can cause a fungus. And yes we’ve done it before, when we were younger. Not our cup of tea. Even the requirement of being close to the ocean during dinner faded for us over time.
On the other end of that spectrum, was our private lunch the next day at Hibernia. If “private” means alone, than I suppose this was private, but not in the usual Private Dining sense. Regardless, when we sit there and start bringing up our most memorable alone meals like at a small Portuguese wine making Quinta overlooking the Douro river, we are essentially in the midst of one of those meals. But when we start talking about some of our most memorable meals ever, perhaps we are in the middle of something more special than that. Describing the Hibernia experience requires me to dig into my emergency vocabulary vault and blow the dust of words like Umami, Mystical, Gorgeous, Divine, and Unicorns! At some point during the meal I thought the only thing missing from this experience is a unicorn or a beautiful little yellow bird. Moments later the latter shows up.
Hibernia is like one of those Thai temples I stumbled upon in my 20’s while drunk on the streets of Chinatown. Except with a setting that would require me to be clinically Manischewitzed to stumble upon one of those here. Pictures dont do this place justice, partly because its missing the sounds of silence, water, and wind chimes that work together like an orchestra. Perhaps a video would have been more fitting in this case. Mary-Pat who hails from Hibernia (ancient Greek for Ireland) & life partner Raoul have something special going on on the eastern end of the island. A 30 minute trek for most folks here feels like a pilgrimage, and to the rest that we met… “Hibernia who?” Its only one of the finest dining in the Caribbean
But none of this would have matter – the setting, the sounds, the serenity, if the food didn’t feature the same kind of wow factor. I’m not one that can be bought or lured into a cloudy judgment by things and friendly faces. So when I asked Mary-Pat for some recommendations, I got the best answer food obsessed individuals could possibly get. A puzzled look! The look of “This is not your average big menu tourist spot. If it wouldn’t be great, it wouldn’t be on the menu”. I saw that look at Jacala as well earlier that week. Here the menu consists of creative Asian inspired delicacies with a French mastery flair. “Fusion” is the most misunderstood F word in the culinary world. When its done right, it can be a beautiful thing.
You could not have written a better start to this script. One bite of that silky smooth homemade Foie Gras Terrine and its angels singing time. The accompanied red wine infused basil seeds was like a newly invented exotic fruit, the perfect compliment. A syringe gently sprinkling some sort of alcohol, like IV for alcoholics was the icing on this cake. There’s your Michelin Star right there. The trio of smoked fish was another revelation of sorts. And I’m just talking about the little salad in the middle of all that expertly prepared sea butter. It tasted like a crazy cross between smoked white fish salad and cream cheese. The lovely Mary-pat from Hibernia (sounds more mystical hence fitting) says its ginger infused cream cheese with horseradish, picking up some of the fishy smokiness. Holy smokes this dish was good.
After those apps, the basil coconut milk with rice noodles was more like familiar flavors in a time and place that made them brand new, if it makes any sense (makes perfect sense in my head). I eat a lot more Thai food than Mrs Z who enjoyed this tremendously. Though I failed to find anything wrong there other than the crayfish (did I mention the crayfish) in that broth getting a little mushy by the end. But that’s minor quibbling. Various fillets of fish in a perfectly spiced Thai style broth was another winner. Wonderfully lemongrassy and pleasantly spicy even on a hot Anguilla afternoon.
Rum raisin ice cream to a rum raisin freak like me was like eating it for the very first time. It’s the freshness and the rum stupid, that delivers an initial punch and makes you wonder what the fu#$ have I been eating all those years. Chocolate covered brandy infused prunes with chestnut ice cream was another solid finisher. (I was toying with the idea of bathroom joke here but I’m too much of a pro for this)
This Raoul dude is a keeper” I whispered to Mary-Pat from Hibernia before leaving with the kind of satisfaction we very rarely experience. The kind that adds that much more fuel to travel addictions
On the way to Staten Island’s Sri Lankan gem San Rasa the other day, I felt a little uneasy. I was quickly losing yet another argument in my head. I’m bringing another couple with me and I don’t have reservations on a Saturday night. That is because the young man on the phone (I feel a little old today) told me I don’t need to make reservations. And not because he knew who I was! “Are you sure? Its Saturday, prime time and its the four of us”. Emphasizing on the number 4 which can be very large on a Saturday night across the pond. “Yes, I’m sure sir. You don’t need reservations”. Fine! But if we come in to a full house and we don’t get a table.. oooh boy.. watch out. Sentences that begin with F words like “Forget this, we are going to Lakruwana ” will be flying out the door. Forgetting to take the young man’s name however was the mistake that lead to losing the argument in my head.
We show up to an empty restaurant! And I don’t mean empty as in a couple in the corner, and a family from France that read about the place on EWZ in the other corner (like last time). I mean there was no one there. “Should we leave and check out Lakruwana” briefly entered our minds. But this is after all, Staten Island’s lone entry in the coveted Z-List, and we made it this far unharmed. I’ve been to San Rasa for lunch, and dinner at the old location, but this was the first dinner at the new and improved San Rasa. Seeing it empty disappointed but did not totally shock me.
Without upsetting too many people, San Rasa is simply too far for most folks who appreciate good food. There are plenty of people on the island of Staten that appreciate good food, but not nearly enough to fill a quarter of San Rasa on a Saturday night. Staten Island doesn’t deserve and cant really appreciate something like this. Give em a buzzy American Italian trattoria, a pizzeria that serves chicken parm, a few Russians to satisfy the Russian communities, a few glorifies diners like Z-one, Z-two, [Name any chain], and the residents are more than satisfied. Like any residents in the burbs would I should add. For most residents the ferry area is quite a schlep (30-40 mins for many) and the true island gems like Sri Lankan Lakruwana, San Rasa, New Asha, and other gems like Enoteca Maria are unrecognizable names. The ferry area is almost like a Manhattan extension, albeit too far and arguably not interesting enough for Manhattanites.
But as often said on this blog, Sri Lankan food is the number one reason to stay after you take those selfies with lady liberty off the ferry. The new San Rasa is not only walking distance, but its décor is now much closer to the Sri Lankan museum-like Lakruwana. The old place was too bare bones and cold looking. Not that I mind when the food is that good. Sunday at all the Staten Island’s Sri Lankan is Funday. By that I mean, some of the best, most unique buffets in the city. For $12 you get a nice array of vegetable, rice, egg goodies, along with two meat specialties. Exceptionally great value and the only buffet I take my family.
But dinner is when the fun really starts. San Rasa turns out is under new management and new chef. While the empty house did not exactly look promising, the result was best San Rasa ever. Meet chef Lalith (one name like Madonna) who has taken the great chef Sanjay lead, adding his own bolder, spicier spin. You feel it right off the bat with the Mulligatawny soup. Unlike the prior Mulligatawny, this one is a little creamier, nuttier, spicier, and simply has more oomph. Thats the only starter I recommend. Save room for the goodies to come. Like the Lamprie, an old dutch colony classic that is the one must get here. The pictures here can only set the bar low, or prevent you from ordering it altogether. But that would be a mistake. Proceed with the hoppers and egg hoppers (not available on this day) before hitting the “Ziggurat” shaped String Hopper Kottu, all with your choice of your favorite curry. And with that my friends I’m announcing the addition of “Ziggurat” to my vocabulary. A fittingly bizarre combination of Ziggy and Borat (for those that know me too well).
Add the award winning Chicken Biryani to the list of musts here. It comes oddly decorated as if it just came from a Bar Mitsvah in the Staten Island Hilton. But I’m betting its the flavor profile that gave it a third place finish in a recent NYC Biryani competition. Mounds of crispy fried chicken on top of gorgeously spiced basmati with more succulent chicken inside was like no Biryani I’ve ever seen. And instead of dessert, finish with a fiery sizzling Deviled something. We usually do shrimp.
San Rasa – better and emptier than ever. “Ayubowan” – May you live long!
San Rasa 19 Corson Ave, Staten Island $$ Recommended Dishes: Mulligatawny soup, Lamprie, Hoppes, Kottu Roti, Chicken Biryani, Deviled Shrimp
“It’s not Sanjaya, it’s called Sarjai’s” I kept telling her all week. “You are thinking of American Idol”. It didn’t matter as she wouldn’t budge. Brains are on vacation too. By the 4th day I said good morning at 8 pm, to a cactus, without anything to drink of significance. And by the 6th I was calling it Sanjaya too. We needed to be on the same page to survive this brain freeze. We talked about Sarjai’s often partly because I wanted to break our #1 rule. But she wouldn’t go for it. First trip to foodie powerhouse Anguilla and you want to eat at the same place twice? That stands against everything our ancestors stand for. Our ancestors been to Anguilla?
On our first dinner in Anguilla I was like a 9 year old girl at a Justin Bieber concert. Forget the appetizers… the Caesars, the Capreses, the Crispy “anything but the F word, fri@#d” Calamari are just the warm-up acts that no one cares about. Bring me the Bieberlicious! 4 Mains, nothing less! “Oh thats just Meshugenah. My Xanax from the flight hasnt even fully kicked in yet”. 3 Mains! The fourth was the infamous Steak au Poivre, the most delicious thing on this vacation I haven’t had. After all, it comes with something called Aunty Joan’s Home-made Curried Fries. And if there’s one thing I learned during my travels is that anything with the word Aunty in it is a must get. Think about it. Have you ever had something that made you say, “this is great, but that aunty side suggests this Aunty needs a stint or two at Le Cordon Blue. Get rid of her”. Most likely never.
My first wife and travel companion believes there was a Welcome to Anguilla sign at the ferry entrance, and she has pictures to prove it. My eyes meanwhile were fixated on an Anguillan goat. That was my Welcome to Anguilla sign. That same night, the stewed goat at Sarjai’s was spot on. Tender, succulent, fatty in all the right places, like slow dancing with your mother in law.
The perfectly flaky creole snapper could have come just a perfectly flaky creole snapper with some rice and peas as in so many places like this, but not here. It arrives with delicious curried cabbage (buried under that fish – oh what fun) and coconut sweet potato dumplings that chef Darren’s grandma makes. Those dumplings grew on us in a hurry, and next thing you know we can’t get enough of them. A brilliant dish that set the bar nicely for many more snappers to come
And our first foray into the Anguillan Crayfish was quite a success. Crayfish in Anguilla is essentially spotted spiny lobster and has no resemblance to the sea roaches of New Orleans. At Sarjai’s they come plentiful, sweet and buttery even without the help of the butter on the side. Not overcooked at all unlike some of the Crayfish we enjoyed the rest of the week.
I enjoyed the warm coconut pie, especially since the wife wouldnt touch the stuff. When she tries anything with bits of coconut in it, her face turns into Robert de Niro and she starts spitting profusely. She did enjoy her passion fruit cheesecake.
Sarjai’s, named after chef Darren Connor’s daughter, delivered the kind of vacation debut I can only wet dream about. Chef Connor, like a true Anguillan idol, represents Anguilla from time to time in cooking competitions. Fresh from his trip to NY and Omaha where he learned more about the art of beef, shows the kind of passion and skill you dont normally see in places like this. Places without a sommelier or dedicated stool for your man’s purse. Its the kind of place you are free to run around like a two year old, and talk to the chef like an old friend. I need more friends like this. Ok, one will do for now.
Pure Thai Cookhouse – Among the plethora of Thai eateries flooding 9th avenue, Pure Thai stands out (and so will you for a while unless you arrive early or in off hours). It was built to resemble a Shophouse in Thailand in order to give you a taste of the Thai food culture. The menu doesn’t feature the usual curry suspects, but more daring dishes that represent various regions of Thailand. E.g. The Jungle fried rice, the simple Ratchaburi with homemade dry noodles, crab and pork, and the more intense Wok Curry Paste with Pork. The lone dessert, pumpkin custard with coconut sticky rice wrapped inside a banana leaf always a recipe for a full blown attack. 766 9th (51/52)
Pure Thai Pumpkin
Pam Real Thai – If you are looking for chandeliers, table cloth, and a little bench for your man purse, you will not find it here. Though “Room Service” another Thai player nearby does have some of these things including nice chandeliers. The minimalist décor is the same as it was 10-15 years ago, and so is the menu. But if you are a fan of flavor and dont care about anything else, this is the place for you. The sick Oxtail soup is reason enough to go, and just about everything else I ever had here is made with a lot of love. Try the Pad Kra Prow (with shrimp), Seafood Kee Mao, Pad Prik Khing, and the terrific Khao Soi. The menu size is intimidating, so ask away if not sure. And the $2 Thai Ice Teas help combat the occasional hefty spice levels. 404 W 49th St (off 9th)
Pam Real Oxtail Soup
Larb Ubol – In the last several years, we’ve seen a slew of eateries open, specializing in Isan cooking. First there was Zabb Elee who intorduced the bold Northeastern flavors to us, until they gave birth to Larb Ubol. Don’t expect anything more than a bookstore café type décor (notice a trend here?). I bike here sweating the heavy traffic in order to sweat some more with dishes such as the peppercorn heavy Pad Ped Moo Krob and the Duck Larb. The spice levels approach “Thai Spicy” at times (but not quite there) so this is not for the faint of sugar seeking heart. But hey, this is after all Hell’s Kitchen. 480 Ninth Ave (37/36)
Larb Ubol Whole Fish
Kare Thai – You know what the next best thing to Thai food on 9th? Thai food on 10th! Yes, they are naturally spreading to 10th these days because they are running out of real estate. And among them all, little Kare is my favorite. I’ve had some pleasant meals here with co-workers though I mainly use it for a convenient quick Kee Mao grab on the go, always greeted by smiles. And the complimentary lunch special snack helps. You know what they say, “You give a smile, you get Shumai!”. 752 10th Ave (51/52)
Wondee Siam II – Back in the day, this was the place I frequented. And although I havent been in many years, I still have devoted co-workers that swear by this place. If you are new to Thai food, or simply want to taste something familiar that you are used to and enjoy back home like Green curry and Pad Thai, this may be the right place for you. 813 Ninth Ave (53/54)
Feels weird writing about steak after the horrific events in Paris. But life goes on.
Steak to me is like Family Guy. I enjoy it tremendously, but rarely seek it. I grill it at home, I order it when I feel like it, but rarely crave and go out of my way for it. Steakhouses in general are not part of my regular diet, and the vast majority of my steak intakes come from non-traditional steakhouses and elsewhere (Italian, French, American). But then, about once a year, I get to taste something like this, which makes me question my diet and our overall existence. I’m well overdue with this post since this particular piece of meat has been on my radar for a few years now. And for the same reason I dont record new Family Guy episodes, I’ve never actually made it to American Cut to have it. But I thought this was a post about Khe-Yo Ziggy. Liar!
American Cut is Marc Forgione’s steakhouse in Tribeca. Khe-Yo is its exotic, wild half sister. She sleeps naked, whistles at construction workers, and doesn’t come to company meetings on time. Khe-Yo is a collaboration of Forgione, another dude, and Laos born Soulayphet Schwader offering Laos inspired dishes (Essentially Thai on Crack). I’ve been to Khe-Yo before including four days after it opened in 2013, but this time I figured I’ll bring Mrs Ziggy for her first Khe-Yo experiences. However, things didn’t quite go as planned. They were better.
Before the waitress had a chance to tell us about today’s specials, I already knew that we were having the steak special. That’s because my sharp steak radar was able to pick up these words from the table nearby “Pastrami, rubbed, rib eye, hmmmm, yes, so good”. It sounded like what you normally hear at the other end of a sex line (I was told). The Ribe eye, rubbed with pastrami seasoning is after all, the Amarican Cut classic I keep hearing about. And it was as magnificent as I imagined. Expertly cooked, good size steak, that’s easily shareable between two ($56). The meat cant get much more tender for a rib eye, with perfectly rendered fat. The peppery pastrami crust is nicely charred and buttery. Its the perfect steak!
If you want a great steak you should probably go to American Cut. If you wan to experience the bold flavors of Laos, dont mind to get your hands dirty (or dont mind having your spouse feed you in public), and can handle some heat, than I highly recommend Khe-Yo. They start you off with a bang, the complimentary sticky rice with fiery “Bang Bang” sauce (lime, chili, fish sauce) that sets the tone for things to come. You eat that and much of the rest with your fingers. The smell for the next 10 hours is complimentary as well. Try the complex Jurgielewicz Duck Salad, the quail, and the crunchy coconut rice balls with sausages. I wish they would provide more sausages with that rice. And finish off with the apple crumb with pineapple and rum raisin ice cream. The whole meal is like Havah Nagila in your mouth!
Khe-Yo 157 Duane St $$$ Recommended Dishes: Jurgielewicz Duck Salad, quail, coconut rice, Rib Eye (if you lucky)
Watching Mocu-Mocu grow is like watching a child grow. I wasnt there during inception, but I watched the development for the next 9 months, and the rapid changes after birth. Its only been 5 months, but before you know it, you are standing there swooping three different bra sizes into that laundry basket. I watched them build a modern, casual, artsy Japanese eatery specializing in… stuff (more on that). I watched them move from front window ordering to a comfortable sit down surrounded by smiles. I watched them build the constantly changing menu that includes a la carte, sets, pictures, and more sets that mimic Japanese traditions. Its a work in progress, but a fun and most interesting one to follow.
Mocu Mocu, a dream come true for two Japanese sisters, sits in a rather odd location in Hell’s Kitchen (10th/51st). Unlike Tex-Mex El Original which opened around the same time one block over, Mocu employs no PR firms, and didnt spend any time on any hot lists. Scorecard so far: One visit to El Original, four to Mocu Mocu. El Original, the name, is actually a better fit for Mocu Mocu since there’s nothing like it in the area and perhaps in the entire city. A true original
So what’s the specialty here? Well, some may say things that end with “yaki”. Takoyaki, doughy octopus balls, come topped with a posse of dancing bonito flakes. Okonomiyaki, tasty veggie filled savory pancakes are used almost like sandwiches hugging chicken, pork belly or coconut shrimp. The chicken Okonomiyaki is in danger of becoming my regular. Then there’s the larger and messier Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki that comes with a dollop of cabbage and fried noodles. And while consuming all these Yakis, you get brainwashed via the videos in the front into ordering perhaps the tastiest yaki of all, the Obanyaki. A gorgeous, not too sweet, dessert pastry filled with various “half and half” combinations. The one I tasted, titled Matcha de Bosco (should come with its own Reggaeton soundtrack) was filled with Matcha Cream and Mixed Berries.
There are six sets on the current menu featuring various combinations, and in true Japanese traditions (I’m told) all the items arrive at the same time. Along with your favorite “yaki” it may include seasonal Oshinko (pickled veggies, normally cabbage), salads, and unique soups like Chilled Edamame Vichyssoise with dried Edamame which I havent tried yet. Though I did have and enjoyed the minestrone like white bean and Sausage Miso. This most unusual miso is a product of Hiroko Shimbo, an acclaimed cookbook author that served as Mocu’s consultant. And if none of this works for you, there are always wings. Quite satisfying ones actually
In this corner of Hell’s Kitchen where tourists and high-heeled office workers are at the minimum, you either need to offer something cheap for the children walking from school or interesting one-off flavors that arent easily found anywhere. Totto Ramen around the corner is a good example. While there’s nothing unique about Ramen in NYC these days, there’s nothing like it in the immediate area. Mocu Mocu takes it even further as there may not be anything like it in the entire city. Go!
Mocu-Mocu 746 10th Ave $$ Recommended Dishes: Soups, wings, and everything that ends with Yaki
Started this one with a bang. Kim’s take on Ddukbokki, Spicy Rice cake w. Pork Fat and fishcakes. I thought I’ve had all the various shapes and textures of Korean/Chinese rice cakes but I guess I was wrong. This one was “meatier”, chewier texture smothered with that classic intense Korean hot, sour, sweet chili sauce. Very good and Mrs Z, and youngest favorite of the night, though I still prefer the Gnocchi like porkiness of Ssam Bar which is in a league of its own (yet another disagreement with these guys). Pork and shrimp fried dumplings tasted much better than they looked. Spicy Chicken Thigh Skewers were good if not slightly overcooked (slightly). Hanjan gets its chicken from a top Brooklyn purveyor, freshly killed over the last 24 hours, so never frozen.
Eating With Ziggy 