New York City

The Road Trip Every New Yorker Should Do At Least Once

SomesvilleRumors have it that our new mayor has dropped the groundhog on his head and as a result we are suffering through the worst winter in recent memory.  Major salt shortages all over the city.  Lower back spasms from all that reaching to the wallet to pay the shovellers.  And not so much eating out lately.  Quality of life is taking a hit due to this winter, and instead of the usual food porn I’m presenting you with the finest New England lighthouses and pretty bridges with flowers.  Yes, the inner Ziggy is out at it again.

With that said, I was asked quite a few times for that New England road trip we did a few years back, and I figured its time to put it up here.  This is an 11 day road trip showcasing some NE highlights.  If anyone has any suggestions/comments/threats please dont hesitate to share in the comments.  But overall, road trips out of NYC dont get any better than this (and we had our share which includes Niagara)

The short Version (1 night each unless noted):

Newport

Sacco

Bar Harbor – 3

Boothbay

Portland

Gloucester – 3

Day 1 – Newport, RI.  One night.  Along with the drive back home this is the longest drive of the trip.  You are here to see the mansions, the gigantic summer cottages where the wealthiest Americans came to play in late 1800’s, early 1900’s.  You have just enough time for a couple of mansions on day one.  Allow around 75 minutes in each.   The Breakers, Elms, Marble house and Rosecliff are the musts IMO.  Consider the behind the scenes tour at the Elms.  Breakers stays open later in the day so you can squeeze it in the first day.  Have dinner in Salvation cafe.  Save your money and spend the night somewhere in Middletown very close by.  There’s a Holiday Inn express among other chains.

Newport, RI

Day 2 – Morning in Newport, and off to Maine.  Visit the rest of the mansion you want to see and do the spectacular cliff walk.  Park somewhere on Narraganset ave and walk to your right and back.  Visit the Touro synagogue, the oldest in the USA (1763).  Not the most beautiful and not the most interesting tour, but it will make you look good at future cocktail parties.  Take a drive on Ocean ave and have lunch in one of the wharf’s.  Black pearl is decent.  Good clam chowder.  Overall, Newport is fairly touristy (for good reason) which means not the most exciting food town.  After lunch start driving toward Bar Harbor with the idea of spending the night somewhere in the middle.  Hampton Inn in Saco near the highway is a good cheap option for families.  On the way to Saco however if its a nice clear day, take a detour to Cape Neddick to see the striking Nubble Lighthouse.  Stop by at the famous Clam Shack in Kennebunkport for a lobster roll on the way to the hotel.

Day 3 – Drive to Bar Harbor.  About 3.5 hours from Saco or Portland.  Take the 295/95 route and leave the scenic route 1 to the way back.  A convenient lunch in the area is the Chart Room off the main road.  This is a good day to simply relax and enjoy your hotel and Bar Harbor, but also a good day to go on a lobster tour with something like Lulu lobster because the rest of the days you would want to stay out of the area as much as possible.  Its a good day to start your lobster meal marathon somewhere although I dont have a particular recommendation.  Last time we had  lobster crapes at Maggies but looks like its now closed.  Have lobster ice cream at Mount Dessert Ice Cream.  Again, for the purpose of future cocktail parties (“Darling, you should have seen all the crazy gelato flavors being scooped up in Rome these days.. Anchovies! Feh! “, “Well, I bet it still beats Lobster gelato in baa haaba, my dear”).  You get my point.

Lulu lobster

I recommend splurging at the Bar Harbor Inn for 3 nights.  Spectacular setting, old rustic hotel with a lot of charm.  While there, please tell them to stop emailing Ziggy promotional material.  I will revisit when I’m ready.  Thank you!

Bar Harbor inn

Day 4 – Explore Acadia.  Essentially you want to do the 27 mile Park Loop road that takes you to all the cool spots.  Start with the visitor center and get a map.  Stop at Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, and other stops on the route.  Have lunch at the Jordan’s pond (get the popovers, good lobster rolls).  This is a must.  You will be hard pressed to find a more stunning setting, in the park’s only restaurant.  After lunch or before take a walk around the pond.  Then climb the South Bubble on the other side of the pond for more incredible views.  Drive up Cadillac mountain and walk around the summit and stay till sunset.  Its cold up there so bring a sweater, or a jumper if you are British.

South Bubble

Day 5 – Perhaps my favorite day of the entire trip.  Explore the quiet side of Mount Dessert Island:  Got to Somesville and look for the bridge (top picture).  Go kayak on Long pond, take a swim at stunning Echo lake beach, visit southwest harbor, do the ship harbor trail, and look for bass lighthouse.  “But Ziggy I still don’t see why this is your favorite day” Have lunch at Thurston’s lobster pound in Bernard.  “Ahh. thank you!”

Thurston's lobster pond

Day 6 – Back on the road.  Time to hit Route 1 – Not the most scenic drive, but all sorts of interesting stops on the way.  Consider spending some time in Camden.  But right before you get to Camden drive to the top of Mt. Battie for some great views of the bay.  Not a strenuous climb by any means.  In Camden enjoy the various galleries, shops, etc and you can take a 2 hour Schooner cruise if you like from the various vendors lined up at the port.  Have lunch in Camden or area.  Continue driving on route 1 south.  Another spectacular lighthouse on the way is the light at Pemaquid point.  Spend the night in Boothbay harbor, and consider dining at, what else, the lobster dock.

Pemaquid lighthouse

Day 7 – Back on the road.  Visit the surprisingly majestic and serene Coastal Botanical Gardens.  Its huge, so you can easily spend half a day here if you like.  Walk the forest.  Continue to Freeport and visit the original LL Beans store.  They have all kinds of activities and clinics you can sign up for in advance like archery and canoeing.  Spend the night in Maine’s largest city and one of the greatest food towns on the east coast, Portland.  Consider dining at Street and Co. or its sister Fore Street, widely considered as one of the best restaurants in the USA by all the publications/lists out there.

Coastal Botanical Gardens

Note:  If you opt to stay longer in Freeport to take advantage of the LL Beans clinics and still do the botanical gardens, you may need to stay an extra day in the Portland area or adjust the itinerary as needed.

Day 8 – Visit Portland sites including and especially Portland Light (yes another lighthouse – what else is new, but this is an absolute must).  This is more of a giant sprawling park that attracts a lot of locals and tourists and offer some of the best photo opps of the trip.  Its been over 12 hours since the last lobster meal so lunch at the nearby The Lobster Shack at Two Lights.  Drive toward Glaucester, Mass via Kennebunkport and the popular summer resort Ogunquit.  The idea here is to stay 2 nights in or near Gloucester.  Consider staying at TownePlace Suites in the town of Danvers.  Cheap 2 BR units right between Gloucester and Boston for easy access to both.  I found that the Gloucester popular hotels sell out quickly and/or too expensive for this purpose.

Portland Light

Day 9 – Take the 4 hour whale watching trip with 7 Seas Whale Watch out of Gloucester.  Should be one of the highlights of the trip.  Reserved in advance.  We saw 11 whales last time.  Or one whale 11 times.  Either way it was a blast

Note:  The summer is the best time to see whales in the area.  In order to play it safe weather wise you could do the Gloucester leg of the trip on the way to Maine instead of back, and switch if necessary in case the weather turns resulting in choppy water.

7 seas whale watch 7 seas whale watch Gloucester

Day 10 – Visit Gloucester sites including the various monuments, Hammond Castle, the nearby Rockport and do not miss Motif Number 1, the most often-painted building in America.  And in case it looks familiar and you feel like you’ve seen it a hundred times, you did.  When your kids watched “Finding Nemo” over and over again.  Its one of the paintings at the dentist office.  Have lunch in Causeway (good haddock) and check out Halibut point park

motif no 1 Rockport

Day 11 – Visit Boston

More from Acadia…

Echo lake beach Long pond Cadillac Mountain Sunset Cadillac Mountain Acadia - Sandy Beach Jordan's Pond Jordans Pond

Categories: New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Taboon – Magic Oven

Courtesy of Taboon

Courtesy of Taboon

March 3, 2016 Update:

Taboon is better than ever.  Our first visit since Efi Nahon came back to where it all started resulted in the best Taboon meal ever.  After leaving his marks at Barbounia and more recently at Bustan, Efi is back with a vengeance at the place he helped built back in 2004.  He got a Sicilian type offer he couldnt refuse.  There he was at the kitchen, doing his thing while us and another couple waited patiently for our table.  Best time I ever did!  Since I had the opportunity to talk to the man next to the blazing, beautiful Taboon oven, like two lovers people near a fire place.  Well, I’m sure he didn’t quite take it like that, and I already had a few drinks by then.  Ok, just one.

You can tell just by looking at the menu that its no longer the same old Taboon, even though many of the classics like Chicken Taboon, Hanger  Steak, and Heraime are still on the menu.  One big difference was the number of interesting specials that night.  And sure enough a Crab Shawarma special, featuring Lior Lev Sercarz’s La Boite Shawarma seasoning and artichokes, turned out to be one of the highlights of the evening. Other early winners were the cauliflower and a shrimp filled, harissa and paprika spiced “Red Falafel”.  The Lamb Kebab pot pie Terra Cotta was like going back to Haj Kahil in Jaffa.  A classic you don’t normally see here.  If there’s one criticism now that I’m no longer standing next to Efi (He’s bigger than me, and more importantly Israeli!) is that the Sambusak (bread stuffed with feta) this evening was saltier than usual, and didn’t pair well with the rest of the apps.  For dessert we had just about the entire lineup, and sure enough, the great Silan, was still the clear winner.  Check out this Z-List winner!

IMG_0427

February 11, 2014:

10th avenue is the new 9th avenue.  Thats what I tell visitors when I bring them to 10th ave in ethnic rich Hell’s Kitchen.  That line either prompts a smile, confusion, or in one particular instance, gas.  Among the various new eateries that popped over the last few years, which includes Peruvian, Thai, Mexican, Italian, farm-to-belly (yes The Marshall, I see you), Korean Chicken Wings, “Middle-terranean” Taboon stands as the grand ol’ daddy in this rejuvenated, gentrified, stretch of Hell’s Kitchen.  You could not open a place like Taboon 18 years earlier (Taboon opened in 2004) in that neighborhood without having a Shepherd’s Pie in the menu, or other classics from the Irish mob cookbook.
I was given a task by a group of hard to please New Jerseyans to pick a nice Israeli place in the city for a group dinner, and I immediately thought of Taboon and Balaboosta for a slightly cheaper fare.  Balaboosta’s somewhat limited group menu, and my two year absence from Taboon made the choice clearer.  A coin flip! Ok, not really.  The choice was clear and needless to say the South Jerseyans who miraculously arrived on time after carefully planning a route via Chris Christie supported towns, seamed pleased with the end results.

Courtesy of Taboon

Courtesy of Taboon

Taboon means oven in Arabic, and your host for the evening is the domed wood burning, brick oven which greets you as soon as you arrive.  This is the stuff that dreams are made off.  And pizza!  And once seated it didnt take long to get a taste of the that oven.  Focaccia that would make Italian gourmands proud.  Perfect depth, golden crispy exterior, brushed with just enough olive oil, with a touch of rosemary and salt.  But the bread doesnt just stop there.  A splendid Sambusak stuffed with feta cheese, jalapeño and onion follows.Taboon Foccacia Taboon mezzes

Along with the bread, came an army of mezzes.  Well, an army for NYC standards at least.  In any Arab restaurant in Abu Ghosh near Jerusalem this would be called “Closed till further notice”.  An acceptable Hummus, tzaziki, taramosalata (roe spread – the older I get the less I like it), baba ghanoush, green schoog (the older I get the more I like it, but I prefer it like my wine, red), red pepper spread (the older I get the more I like cookies.  Nothing to do with red pepper spread [which was lovely btw] but I thought this is as good as a time to mention it).  The lovely mezze parade then continued with a refreshing avocado salad, and salmon ceviche (I believe it was salmon, it says red snapper on the site).  But the mezze war was won by the fantastic falafel balls with an all too familiar taste (Amba – that mango condiment we enjoyed so much in Israel last year), and the crowd favorite Zucchini cakes with sauteed snow peas, cipollini onions, fresh herbs topped with yogurt/garlic/mint sauceTaboon Zucchini Cake Taboon ceviche

As for main, I enjoyed my perfectly cooked Hanger with potatos, Brussels sprouts, and garlic.  But I quickly realized that I had this steak here twice before, and a quick look to my right gave me some serious and extremely rare chicken envy.  Yes, the first time New Jerseyan ordered better than me.  The mighty fine looking Chicken Taboon was featuring my true love, Israeli couscous.

A note about Israeli couscous.  Israeli  couscous is not like the couscous you know and love and really only called Israeli couscous in America.  In Israel, its called “Ptitim”, and its essentially tiny oven toasted “Pasta balls” invented when Israel’s first prime minister asked Osem to develop a rice substitute.  For a while it was nicknamed Ben-Gurion’s rice.

Taboon steakBack to the mains.  Two fish dishes that have been on the menu for as long as I remember are particularly popular.  The whole baked Branzino, and the Heraime –  wild striped bass, baked in the taboon oven in a ragout of roasted pepper, tomato, cilantro, mild Moroccan spices, artichokes and hot paprika oil served with regular couscous (booo, but I get it).  If you like meaty white fish with red sauce, get this.  Did I mention that a top Israeli chef who happened to be owner Ayala’s uncle (I think) was brought in to help generate the menu?

Normally in Middle Eastern/Mediterranean I find my refuge in all the apps/mezzes, and the desserts, and any greatness in the middle is a bonus.  Bonus!  The desserts here are just fantastic.  The Silan in particular is a thing of beauty – Vanilla ice cream with puffed rice and date honey sprinkled with caramelized pistachios and topped with shredded halva,  I’ve had this on every single visit.  The Lava Cake however was this crowd’s fave, and the Knaffe capped another great meal at Taboon.

Taboon
773 10th Ave, 52nd Street
$$$
Recommended Dishes:  Focaccia, Sambusak, Cauliflower, Terra Cotta Lamb, Falafel, Zucchini cakes, Chicken, Heraime, Silan, Lava Cake

 

Taboon Taboon chicken Taboon lamb Taboon lava cake Taboon Silan Taboon inside

 

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Dude, You Are Researching NYC Food All Wrong

002Dear Tourist,

So you’ve decided finally to go on a “Holiday” to New York City.  Mazal Tov!  You probably read by now in your guide books that NYC is the greatest food city in the world.  And you are probably waking up every morning thanking god for the gift that keeps on giving, the TripAdvisor Rankings.  Between the rankings, the guidebooks, and all the great recommendations by your neighbor’s house sitter Betty (you must go to bubba gump you must) who eloped to NYC last year with 75 of her closest friends, you are all set.  Right?  Not exactly.  Lets take a moment and examine what is wrong with the above plan, and come up with a new one.

Whats wrong with the TA rankings:  Everything, and nothing.  Its just totally meaningless, especially in NYC.  TA is a great traveling tool, but pretty much totally useless in NYC as far as restaurants are concerned.  The main reason for its uselessness is that there are much better research tools in NYC. (more on that later).  But lets discuss the rankings for a second shall we.  They are so flawed and so out of tune with reality that’s not even funny.  The top 50 at the moment is a bizarre mishmash of classics and places I never even heard of.  First of all the TA algorithm puts some major weight on the number of reviews.  So older establishments may be higher than better reviewed younger ones.  And then there are those that have 27 remarkably high reviews that made it all the way to the top 20.  And not to mention that 25 of them may be coming from all their employees and families.  I always recall this one particular place in Milan where the owner single-handedly put his place #1 with a bunch of obvious fake reviews.  At some point he mistakenly gave himself one star, and that followed with 4 quick glorious reviews with a similar language.  And once real reviews started coming in, he found himself arguing with every reviewer

But fake reviews don’t have much of a bearing on the busy NYC listings.  Tourists do.  TripAdvisor is predominately used by tourists, and its especially true in NYC.  While you may see locals contribute in other towns and countries where there’s not much of a choice other than TA, in NYC locals use other sites like Yelp.  Now, couple the tourist factor with the high volume factor I mentioned above and you can see why something like Basso56 will be near the top as its heavily reviewed by tourists thanks to its location near Times Square.  Besides Basso, at the top of the Italian chain on TA at the moment you can find other Italian behemoths like Rafele, Piccola Cucina, Via Della Pace – places I never even heard of.  But if you need more convincing than “Ziggy never heard of”, why not just go to Chowhound where all the NY foodies hang out and pull threads that discuss the best Italian in town.  You will not find any of those places mentioned.  What you will see mentioned are places like Maialino (#95), Babbo (#602), Marea (#194), Lincoln (#882), or even Ziggy fave Costata (#2605).  TA numbers are all over the place as you can see, well outside of the top range for the unsuspecting tourist.  So while you are eating a Carbonara with cream and bacon at a high ranked theater district place near you, locals out there enjoy the real thing with Guanciale and egg at Maialino.

Same applies to using the rankings everywhere else in the world.  My favorite restaurant in our adapted home of Turks and Caicos is Caicos Cafe, rated #20 at the moment, pretty low in T&C standards.

Now, its time to ditch the guide book.  Ok, wait.. pick it up.. its actually quite useful for many things.  But not so much for food.  Yes, you will get some good tips on some NY icons like Katz’s and Russ and Daughters that I recommend.  But then you have something like pizza (namely Grimaldi’s) and bagels that NYC is so famous for.  While you will not easily find better pastrami than Katz’s, you will easily find better pizza than Grimaldi’s.  Actually, all you need to do while standing on line at Grimaldi’s with the rest of the tourists is look to you left at Juliana’s window to see where the real Grimaldi is doing his thing nowadays.  But you dont even have to leave your neighborhood in Manhattan to get great pizza that is arguably better than Grimaldi’s.

Besides pizza, your guide book will mislead you in other areas.  E.g.  Hell’s Kitchen is not a safe area, the place for Italian is Little Italy, and Times Square is a foodie paradise.  Your guide book may be up to date as far as facts are concerned (MoMA hours) but not concepts.  Little Italy is now a block inside Chinatown riding one of those concepts.  There are no Italians living there.  Another thing to keep in mind is that the food contributors to the guides may not be necessarily “foodies”.  Rick Steves for example does not strike me a foodie, and to follow his advice in Italy or anywhere else is Europe in this day and age is pretty silly.  Eating at guidebook recommended establishments and high ranked TA spots also means eating with other tourists who are doing exactly the same thing.  Some may find comfort with that, but if you are reading this blog chances are you want to eat where the locals eat.

And as for your neighbor Betty recommendations go, treat them like meeting your dentist at the supermarket.  Smile, and move on.  Unless Betty, is an avid Eating With Ziggy reader and/or does any of the following…

Read Chowhound – as I mentioned, this is where many of the NYC foodies hang out, and where I get many ideas.  Chowhound is probably my wallet’s single worst offender.

Read Yelp Reviews instead of TA reviews.  I already touched on this, and its fairly simple.  Locals use Yelp, tourists use TA.

Read or Subscribe to Grub Street – You can get all sorts of interesting ideas there, especially from the power rankings.  Same idea applies to Eater, or Serious Eats.

Hang out in the TripAdvisor NYC Forum.  You dont even have to participate.  Its amazing how much knowledge you can get just by reading the forum for a month or two.  There are plenty of locals who contribute on a daily basis, and you can also find many discussions on dining by using the search feature

And the most important tip…

Read EatingWithZiggy.  Whats so funny.  Where do you think I derive my ideas from.

Happy eating, and happy planning!

Categories: Brooklyn, Chelsea, Chinatown, East Village, Gramercy, Flatiron, Lower East Side, Midtown East, Midtown West, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita, Staten Island, TriBeCa, West Village | Tags: , , , , | 6 Comments

Mercato – a Diamante in the Rough

Mercato Trenette

February 24th, 2020 Update:

Time to update this oldie but goodie.  Its only been 6 years, though I’ve been doing surprise inspections on and off during that time.  Why did it take me so long you may ask.  Its very simple.  Not much has changed.  Same owners, same menu, same lentil dip they give you at the beginning of each meal, same layout I know like the back of my hand, same everything.  In a city where chefs constantly feel the need to reinvent themselves every now and then, Mercato is pretty much the same its been since it opened a decade ago.  BTW, does anyone really know the back of their hand well?

The location of Mercato has a lot to do with why it stays the same.  In that corner of Hell’s Kitchen, they get their fare share of tourists, and theater goers, which also enables them to stay open throughout the day while many siesta-ing.  But they are just far enough from the midtown hustle and bustle, and the bulk of bridge and tunnelers seeking a different kind of red sauce.  Safe to say its a Hell’s Kitchen staple that stuck to its niche as a no frills Trattoria celebrating the Italian south, Puglia, Sardegna and Sicily especially.

Mercato OrecchietteLike with so many such Italian joints in the city, pasta here reigns supreme.  The Trenette is always reliable as a light, nutty alternative to the Spaghetti al Pomodoro.  I’m not as in love with it as I used to, but I still order it when I’m sharing for its interest factor.  If you want something more robust, the homemade Malloreddus, tiny but potent Sardinian Cavatelli with wild boar ragu is a Mercato classic and a safe bet.  Same with the Gnocchi, though I didnt have it in some time now.

Here you want to pay special attention to the specials.  The Orecchiette with sausage and Maitake (Hen of the Woods) last time was possibly the most satisfying special I’ve had here.  The odd inclusion of crispy dried sweet peppers didnt interfere with the joy.  Dido for the slow roasted juicy pork shank.  The only thing I wouldnt order again is the Tagliata (sliced steak) which rarely resembles the motherland version in most places anyway.  The Semifreddo however, you just want to kiss and say “I knew it was you Semifreddo”.  Or you can just eat it with a spoon like we did.

January 31, 2014 post:

I was never so eager to write a “Next Post” after that last one.  But work, and a vigorous Sexual Harassment training were in the way.

What do Hell’s Kitchen, Staten Island, and Brooklyn have in common? A mafia filled history, and a lot of mediocre Italian food.  Coincidentally, these are the 3 places I spend the most time in due to work and marriage constraints.  But as Bob Dylan taught us “Times They are a-Changin”  That’s right, changin without a “g” at the end.  In the case of Hell’s Kitchen, there’s still a lot of mediocre Italian food to entertain the theater goers.  But the last few years a few diamond in the rough spots emerged, biggest being Mercato on 9th and 39th.

Mercato NYCAvid followers of EWZ (both of them) already know all about this Hell’s Kitchen treasure.  Mercato (means Market in Italian) is as authentic as it gets in NYC.  Here’s why…

1) Owners from Puglia, chef from day one is Sardinian, and every waiter is Italian.  Yes, every single one.  And if I may say, all being Italian, fairly good looking bunch as well.  I dont go here for this particular reason, but perhaps a sense of belonging!

2) The menu is jam packed with Sardinian, Sicilian, Pugliese specialties (more on that later)

3) Italians love coming here.  I’ve heard Italian spoken here by diners on every single visit.

4) Inside it just feels like a rustic Trattoria in Florence (and Ive been to plenty of those)

5) One of these is usually parked next door

Mercato - Bread

I’ve been to Mercato about 10 times since my first time 6 months ago.  I’ve taken friends, co-workers, family, family of co-workers (not an affair, just fooling around!) and I feel very comfortable recommending it on the boards.  There’s nothing really outrageous about the food.  Its simple, honest, and true to the regions of South Italy.  While there are all sorts of goodies on the menu I come here primarily for the Primis (pasta/gnocchi)…

Spaghetti with fresh tomatoes, garlic & basil – Like on a first date, before meeting the parents and answering “am I fat” questions 20 years later, you may want to take the core product for a spin.  This is a very passable basic Spaghetti dish with profound freshness all around.  As with many of the dishes on the menu, everything is homemade

spaghetti

Homemade Trenette with almonds, garlic, tomato and basil (top picture) – Possibly my favorite pasta here.  Simple, intense flavors, and at $12 the best price/taste ratio.  You will simply not find this anywhere else

Gnocchi in beef and pork ragu – Another one of my favorites.  The gnocchi are wonderfully chewy, pillowy, and on the small side.  It looks like its swimming in sauce but its firm enough to soak in just the right amount of the meat ragu.  And what meat ragu it is!

Gnocchi

Orecchiette pasta with broccoli rabe, anchovies, bread crumbs, garlic and olive oil – A Pugliesi without an Orecchiette dish is like Roman without Carbonara.  Its very simple, if you like anchovies get it.  If you dont, dont.

Orechiette

Fave E Cicoria – Its the Pugliesi Hummus.  Popular especially in the winter months.  Purée of fava beans, chicory, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.  Deliciously salty and quite good

Mercato - Fave

Pay special attention to the pasta specials here.  Yesterday I had a terrific Cavatelli with spicy short rib ragu.  Same goes for the Fusilli (below) with slow braised pork ragu I’ve enjoyed in the past

Mercato - Fusilli

The one dish I really want to try but always get disrupted by a special is the Malloreddus which is homemade Sardinian cavatelli-like “Gnocchetti” with braised wild boar ragu

I’ve had plenty of other dishes here like the Octopus, Sardines, Tagliata (sliced steak), but chose to highlight the selective ones

Mercato
352 West 39th st (9th)
Rating: 2 Zs (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Spaghetti, Trenette, Malloreddus, Gnocchi, Fave E Cicoria, Semifreddo, Pasta Specials

Mercato - Octopus Mercato

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Henry’s End – Game of Thrones

Henry's End - CharcuterieWinter is coming!  An odd thing to say in mid January.  Game of Thrones has made “Winter is Here” or every other phrase with the word Winter in it(e.g. “Winter Coats for Sale”) sound uncool.  Besides, you could be reading this post in the Summer or Fall, and as long as our moon is intact, winter will be just around the corner.  Imagine for a second Planet Earth without a moon, or a much smaller moon.  The earth’s rotational axis would pretty much not exist, hence no fixed seasons.  It could be Turks and Caicos weather for 7 years, or Antartica for 9.  Imagine having to wait years or decades for Henry’s End Winter Game Festival.  Its like imagining the unimaginable.  Like Kim without Kanye.  Hooray for moons!

File this one under the I cant believe I haven’t done this before.  We were again with Mr and Mrs Hummus Whisper, a prenatal eating tour if you will for them.  Turns out HW is still recovering from catching his former nanny wearing his boxer shorts.  Knowing the former nanny, I now join in the recovery efforts.  It was also very cool meeting Steve from the Chowhound board finally after first meeting him on the Italy board.  The rustic Henry’s End by the Brooklyn Bridge in Brooklyn was packed on a Friday night as it should.Henry's End

Enjoyed the Turtle Soup.  Got it lukewarm but it was just fine.  Finely chopped turtle meat, nicely spiced.  Recipe originally came from Paul Prudhomme when he was with Commanders Palace, incidentally the last Turtle Soup I had.  The CP soup nowadays is a bit different, with chunkier meat, which could be turtle or not.  Turtle soup to me is not so much about the turtle meat.  It could be veal, pork or rubber ducky meat as far as I care.  But the manager at Henry’s assured me it was real Turtle from Louisiana.

The Game Charcuterie Plate was something else.  Great Buffalo, venison, duck pate.  Venison sausage was nice and earthy, almost mushroom like.  My favorite however was the rabbit with ginger sausage.  So tender and flavorful.  Wife enjoy her corn chowder.

For main we shared a few dishes.  Nice Rabbit Strudel – a bit too sweet for my taste but enjoyable.  The Pappardelle with Buffalo short rib ragu was one of the best Pappardelle with ragu I ever had and certainly one of the the meatiest.   Melts in your fork, super tender, tasty meat which looks a bit one sided in the picture but it wasnt.  The New Zealand Elk Chops however stole the show.  Huge, rich, lean tender chops, herb and breadcrumb crusted on top of a very tasty Madeira wine sauce.  Just excellent excellent stuff!  I was giving a food tour to a couple from New Zealand right before dinner, so it was a NZ kind of a day for me

Dessert was fine.  Liked the homemade banana gelato.  Another memorable meal in Brooklyn

Henry’s End

$$$

44 Henry St, Brooklyn (Right near the Brooklyn Bridge and DUMBO)

Recommended Dishes:  From the Game menu: Turtle Soup, Game Charcuterie Plate, Elk Chops, Pappardelle

Henry's End - Turtle Soup Henry's End - Strudel Henry's End - pappardelle Henry's End - Elk Chops Henry's End elk

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Piora – You Had Me at DM

PioraYou know the place is popular when you show up and the door is locked.  You’ve been trying to make reservations for the past 3 months until you finally score a “senior citizen” slot of 5:30 and show up at 5:15 courtesy of zero traffic (Thanks to our borough presidents who endorsed Chris Christie).  A locked door was a first for us.  Hearing DM (Depeche Mode, aka “Greatest group in the history of greatest groups) as soon we walked in was a first as well.  I knew right there and then that this will be a fun evening.  And it was!

Piora is as refined and polished as they get in this class.  Its not quite Italian, not quite Korean, not quite “Fusion” (why everyone hates you “Fusion”.  I say you are misunderstood).  Hence, the default “New American” tag applied.  Does anyone eat “Old American” anymore?  Piora (“Blossom” in Korean) is the strange, but hey it works, combination of an Italian-American executive chef and a Korean owner/manager in the West Village.  A cozy back room overlooking a stunning snow dusted garden (a rarity these days).  The atmosphere almost seemed odd which sort of worked in our favor, if it makes sense.  You just dont expect alternative/clubby music in a place like this but it worked.

Piora - Leaves FallingBefore I dive to the food though, mad props to one particular drink here.  “Leaves Falling” — Plymouth gin, Calvados apple brandy, Earl Grey tea, maple syrup, lemon and apple.  I want to try making one of those at home, when I’m down, or watch Turkish movies.  All I need now is all those ingredients and a bartender.

Some of the dishes were a little on the salty side, though thanks to the Falling Leaves I cant remember what they were.  All by design of course, and all still quite complex and enjoyable

Monkey bread – With Lardo and seaweed butter.  This was pretty good as expected and a no brainer starter but so are a lot of very interesting bread baskets all over town that cost $6 less

Piora - Monkey Bread

Carrots – Perhaps the most memorable dish.  Wonderful array of different flavors and textures with pistachios, yogurt, showered with pink “ham snow”.  A glorious dish.

Piora - OctopusBarbequed Octopus (left) – Quite nice.  Tender octopus prepared with Gochujang (a Korean Chili paste), pine nuts and basil.

Egg – Very Good!  Poached with 3 succulent deboned chicken wings, potato, and artichoke Barigoule.  Is it me or every “New American” menu these days must include a dish called “Egg”

Bucatini – Perhaps the most celebrated dish on a menu that includes 3 pastas.  A very unique blend of squid ink Bucatini, black garlic (The Korean black garlic, not the feh! kind), Dungenese crab, Maitake (yum) and chili

Gnocchi Special –  Excellent!  Picture below is half the normal size (they split some dishes for us).  Not your traditional Gnocchi.  Texture closer to fried potatoes in Gnocchi shape.  With lobster (not skimpy), sitting on a bed of artichoke puree, with some hints of French black Truffles.  Meaning, its the kind of truffle that surrenders to the rest of the ingredients rather quickly!

Piora - Gnocchi

Rigatoni – Very Good!  Red wine, duck sausage, fig and spigarello (a distant cousin of broccoli.  The one that never calls because you don’t call)

Rohan duck – A great dish!  Nice and crispy skin, peking duck-like, faro, and yet more of that lovely black garlic

Trout – Tasted fine according to the Hummus Whisperer.  BTW, we were joined again by the Hummus Whisperer and his wife the Hummus Punisher.  (That’s what he calls her, don’t know why and frankly don’t want to know.  Whatever they do at home in their spare time is not my business)

Olive oil potatoes beat out the Sunchoke hazelnut in the extras match.  Desserts weren’t memorable (damn you Falling Leaves) but the meal overall was indeed.

Piora

$$$$

430 Hudson st

Recommended Dishes:  Monkey bread, Carrots, Egg, Bucatini, Gnocchi (Special), DuckPiora - Carrots

Piora - Duck Piora - EggPiora -Rigatoni Piora - Bucatini

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

NYC – Top 10 dishes of 2013

NoMad breadAnother year, another amazing eating year in the city of New York.  Keeping up with all the new and excitement here is like keeping up with the Kardashians.  But 2013 proved to be one heck of a year, probably the best ever.  And if there’s ever a post on EWZ that could be helpful to visitors or locals seeking great chow in NYC, this is IT!

Ma Peche – Fried Chicken (with a side of the Brussels Sprouts).  I’ll start with the last great dish.  Haute Fried Chicken doesnt get any better than this.  Habanero, coriander, black pepper and other spices used to create this fried pieces of awesomeness.  Its a large shareable whole chicken at $48, but for lunch you can get half for $24 which can still feed an Armanian village, or 2 Americans.  And the amazing Brussels Sprouts dish are worthy of their own spot here.

photo (4)

Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop– Smoked Whitefish Donburi.  With salmon roe, sweet soy dashi, cucumber, scallion over rice.  Need I say more?  I probably should.  Tell me if you heard this story before.  A Jewish man from Long Island opens a Ramen shop in Tokyo which becomes critically acclaimed, then comes back to NYC to open a Ramen shop in the New Gotham West Market in Hell’s Kitchen.  Sounds familiar? The Donburi is a nice clash of the 2 cultures (Japan meets Jew)

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Momofuku Ssam Bar – Spicy Sausages & Rice Cakes.  Second Momofuku mention already (Ma Peche is the first)   This dish is insane.  Plenty of heat and plenty of joy.  Its a beautiful medley of ground sausage, Chinese broccoli, Sichuan peppercorn, and the awesome rice cakes which were essentially Korean Gnocchi made from rice flour.  Puts the Mssion Chinese rice cakes to shame.  Photo courtesy of Never Too Sweet

Betony – Short Ribs.  A revelation!  Tender, full of flavor goodness.  It takes 3 days to make them we were told.  We told the waitress that we cant stay that long, but we quickly understood the meaning.

Betony - short ribs

Maialino – Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe.  Its so simple, it shouldnt be here.  But along with the carbonara perhaps my favorite dish at one of my favorite Italian spots in the city.  Perfectly creamy, peppery, and addictive.  Having it sit there among the other pastas on the table is like visiting the bunny ranch after trying out all the bunnies, and constantly picking your favorite.

Maialino - Cacio e pepe

The NoMad – The Chicken.  This is a no brainer, and a top dish nominee even before it reached our table.  Once you get over the facts that a) is costs $78 (for 2) and b) its freakin chicken, you will enjoy this one no doubt.  Perfectly crispy skin, moist juicy white meat, along with some foie gras and black truffles (all cooked) nicely tucked beneath the skin.  Each bite of that combination together was a Tour de Force.  But that’s not all.  Add a glorious plate of the dark meat with garlic espuma (foamy light garlic goodness) in the middle to share.

NoMad Chicken

Ippudo – Akamaru Modern (with egg).  “Welcom”, “Goodbye”, “Aim Well”? I have no idea what they are screaming in Japanese at Ippudo every time someone arrives or goes to the bathroom.  All I know is that this is my favorite dish here.  Rich, complex pork broth, along with hefty pieces of pork belly.  Add the egg and spicy miso paste for even richer flavors

Ippudo - Akamaru

Costata – The Costata.  Perhaps the dish of the year.  A mammoth 44oz $120 very shareable Tomahawk Ribeye cooked to perfection.  Basted ever so beautifully with a rosemary brush, this beast was a feast for all senses.  Add some Black truffle butter, fries and asparagus, but good luck remembering the sides in between bites of perhaps the best steak in town

Costata - Ribeye

Nish Nush – Falafel.  I know Falafel.  I grew up with falafel.  My car runs on falafel (its the trade-in period while waiting for the new car so dont want to use the real thing).  This is good falafel.  Fresh pita from the oven, and free (great) hummus can only help

Nish Nush - Falafel

Kashkar Cafe – Geiro Lagman.  Little Asia in little Odessa (Brighton Beach) and perhaps the only Uyghur spot in town.  I’ve had this dish 3 times in the last 8 months.  Nice and chewy hand pulled noodles with lamb, veggies, cumin, garlic, other spices and herbs make up this highly palatable dish.

Kashkar lagman

Special mentions:

Malai Marke – Chicken Xacuti (and Bindi Sasuralwali)
Sakagura – Maguro Tartar
Pure Thai – Wok Curry Paste with Pork
Mercato – Trenette
Jungsik – The rice dish that comes for free for b-day boy 😉
Louro – Octopus Bolognese (tie with monkfish)
Mission Chinese – Kung Pao Pastrami

Categories: Brooklyn, Chelsea, Chinatown, East Village, Gramercy, Flatiron, Lower East Side, Midtown East, Midtown West, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita, TriBeCa, West Village | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Best and Worst Restaurants of 2013

The best of 2013 by Eastern European, former Soviet aficionado Florian

Florian's avatarFood Perestroika

I feel like I spent all my dinners out eating in Eastern European and other post-Soviet restaurants this year! As is now the tradition, here’s a summary of the places I reviewed, rated on a scale from 0 to 10, and grouped into three categories: recommended (rating > 6), not worth a special visit (rating between 5 and 6), and avoid (rating < 5). While I usually mention decor and service in my posts, only the food is being graded.

2013 was the year of the Manhattan restaurants. Call me lazy, but I figured I might as well review some of the eateries closer to home before venturing too often to Brighton Beach and Sheepshead Bay. The conclusion is that they tend to be better than their Brooklyn neighbors (with one exception that’s so blatant that it can only confirm the rule). This doesn’t really come as a surprise: a restaurant…

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Categories: New York City | Leave a comment

Balaboosta – Vey Zmir What Flavors!

Balaboosta - HummusThis is gonna be a goodie and a quickie.  Or maybe just a quickie, we’ll see how it goes.  I’m just a little busy lately with all sorts of things going on including an invitation to the latest Jean Paul Gaultier collection.  Yes, another thing you didnt know about me I suppose but I am a Jewish Fashionista of sorts.  When I’m not busy travelling and eating, I am busy checking out the latest fashion trends.  Jean Paul (or JP as we friends call him) latest tells me that I need to get a new buyer (wife).  She keeps buying me black and I’m starting to suspect that this is her way of calling me fat.  But at the same time, JP’s Rabbi Chic collection at the Brooklyn Museum yesterday tells me black is still the new black and my buyer will be kept.  For now.

Balaboosta (which loosely translates in Yiddish to “She who will drop the lobster remains on your shoulder during dinner time if you say anything negative about her mother again.  Next time will be your head”) is one of those places that’s been on my list for a while.  Pretty much ever since seeing owner Einat Admony won Chopped.  I’ve been a fan of Taim for a while now, even while enduring the suffering of seeing them misspell S’chug over the years.  And of course, after all that, Einat was not there to receive the complaint directly as she had a family function to attend.

As I explained recently to a friend, I dont write posts about bad meals.  If I have a bad meal I simply dont write anything (which happened quite a few times this year).  Balaboosta is Israeli/middle eastern at its best…

Crispy Cauliflower – With lemon,​ currants, pine nuts.  Sweet, savory and delicious.  This is sort of a celebrated dish here, mentioned on forums, various websites, cookbooks.  Children books written about it; “Goodnight Balaboosta Cauliflower!”

Hummus “Mortar and Pestle” – tahini, roasted garlic, za’atar pita – We know our hummus and this is damn good hummus.  As with Taim pitas, love the use of za’atar.  No surprises here, like Brian Boitano announcing he’s gay

Homemade Swiss Chard Spaghetti – With heart of artichoke, ricotta, crispy garlic and walnuts. Simple and delectable.  Kids, wife attacked it like its the last day of the Mayan calendar.  Leaving almost nothing for Ziggy

Yemenite Pizza – shaved fennel, caramelized onion, feta, arugula.  Put this one under “why did I order this category”  not a fan of this combination to begin with.  Oldest child proclaimed “Interesting”

Braised Short Ribs – sauteed okra, oven dried tomato, spinach, chickpea cake,   hawaïj & white wine reduction – Meaty and tender.  Chickpea cake’s texture a little off, mushy, but tasted fine

Lamb Kebabs (special) – Excellent.  Tasty, herby, like a nice cross between Adana and Indian kebabs.  Sitting on top of crisped pita on a bed of eggplant tahini (fancy for babaghanouj)

Moroccan Curry Seafood – seared fish filet , shrimp, scallop, eggplant, baby carrot, kale, bokchoy.  Terrific, though not quite sure how its Moroccan or “Curry”.  Mild bright sauce, letting the well cooked seafood do the talking.  My Balaboosta thought it was too bland but probably due to trying this after the well spiced kebabs.  I liked it

I must say the desserts here were exceptional.  Banana Bread pudding is NOLA quality!  For those who’ve been to New Orleans know what I’m talking about.  Knafeh, or as we called it while touring Israel, “The Hairy Baklava” is quite good as well, with rose water ice cream which was a pleasant surprise.

Special thanks the young French waitress helping us out.

Balaboosta

214 Mulberry St

Balaboosta - cauliflower Balaboosta - Pizza Balaboosta - Spaghetti Balaboosta - Kebabs Balaboosta - Seafood casserole Balaboosta - Knaffe Balaboosta - Bread pudding Balaboosta

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Eating With Ziggy – Literally! All About the Hell’s Kitchen Food Crawl

October 2016 Update:  I’m not doing these anymore.  But as of October 2016 I got a sightseeing license and now run similar paid tours in Hells Kitchen, East Village and Brooklyn.  More details here.

Since I’ve had a few people asking me about this, I thought I would put this in writing finally.  A few months ago I’ve decided to offer free food oriented walks in Hell’s Kitchen.  I will spare you the details of what prompted me to do it, but I assure you there are details!  This is more of an eating meetup than an actual tour.

Here are the details…

What:  Hell’s Kitchen Food Crawl.  HK is a neighborhood in Midtown West
When: Send me your dates to losameach@gmail.com.  Generally Thursdays and Fridays are best.  We start at 3:40
Where:  In front of Pigalle restaurant, 790 8th Ave.  Corner of 48th street.  We will not eat in Pigalle dont worry
Who:  Up to 4 people.  Generally best if you have a certain passion for food, culture and/or want to experience NYC through the eyes of a local.  Dont do this just because its free, or with small children as it will not be fun
How long: Allow 4 hours.
Price:  Zero.  I’m not accepting tips.  Free is FREE!  You will just need to pay for the food
What will we eat and see:  Some people prefer to be surprised so I will not mention the places.  But out of about a dozen possibilities I’ve narrowed it down to 5 fairly diverse spots.  We will also visit a few non food related places and learn a bit about the neighborhood.  Worse case you will get to spend some time meeting a fun, interesting local, and I will do my best to find that individual 😉
How much will the food cost:  It depends on what exactly we’ll order and what you’ll be drinking.  Two of the places are casual quick sit-downs where we’ll share some dishes so some of it also depends on the number of people.  Here’s a very rough estimate without drinks…
1 person  – $40
2 people – $35 per
3 people – $30 per
4 people – $25 per
Any other questions please forward to losameach@gmail.com
Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Leave a comment

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