I will start this one with the definitions…
Scampi – Langoustines, or small lobsters the size of a large crayfish found throughout the Mediterranean and Atlantic ocean. They are an expensive delicacy in the Mediterranean, and even more expensive here
Shrimp Scampi – A dish made of Shrimp, garlic, white wine poured over pasta. At least thats the classic way. There are many other variations out there
Bomba – Calabrian Chili paste consisting of.. you guessed it… Calabrian chili, EVOO, and pickled veggies in some variations
Scampi the Restaurant – PJ Calapa’s (Costata, Ai Fiori) dream restaurant in Flatiron heavily featuring the three above
The Infatuation – Still clueless!
The state of Italian dining in NYC is getting more interesting by the day. From Scampi alone I can walk a few blocks to Maialino for the Roman classics (another outstanding meal a few weeks ago). I can crawl to 13th street for the neighborhoody Da Andrea (I’m due). I can walk to Ulivo, Mercato’s more mature sister, for some Southen Italian (I’m due there too). Or I can just walk to Nishi (insert smiley with heart eyes here). There has never been a better time for Italian in the city. The wealth and depth of it makes everyone question, what is Italian food anyway.
But in order to stand out in NYC these days, you need to be creative. Whether that creativity comes from childhood memories, working at three Michelin stars, or whatever. PJ Calapa started in Texas, and worked his way through the ranks of NYC via Bouley, Nobu, and Michael White’s AltaMarea group. For me it was Costata (RIP) that solidified him on the culinary map. But Scampi feels like that dream restaurant.
The space is like a lesson in restaurant decoration and design. It can get loud at dinner times and very quiet and airy during lunch. The lunch bar seat closer to the front is my favorite seat in the house. One on night we endured the two seater next to the busy kitchen door where we felt the restaurant’s pulse. Our waiter, although clearly overworked, was ‘futuristic friendly’. The type you only see in Sci-fi movies.
The food rundown:
Bomba – This will be on your table when you come in. Its not meant to be for the bouquet of Grissini (bread sticks – nice touch), but to be combined with the dishes, especially the pastas. I was eating this stuff with the spoon. There are rotating pickled veggies mixed in (last time mushrooms).
Razor Clams – Reminiscent of a similar dish he created in Costata. Chopped clams mixed with chives and prosciutto. Unlike similar dishes we had lately like in Frenchette, this one worked, again.
Beef Tartare – Not particularly beefy, but nicely balanced and flavorful. There are quite a few ingredients here to make it happen including Parmesan, chives and the Bomba.
Mafaldini Scampi – This is their signature dish, featured on every table and every review (including sadly Infatuation. These guys rush to review every restaurant before hitting puberty). The Mafaldini has that wonderful chew and is a serious contender with Lilia as the best Mafaldini in NYC. But what makes the dish work is the crunchy toasted Filone breadcrumbs (toasted with garlic and more) featured in other pastas. The best way to eat this however is mix some of that Bomba midway. This is a must get
Langoustines – These better be perfect for $14 a pop and they are. As usual they come butterflied, and while there’s not a lot of it, the meat is glorious sea butter
Delicata Squash – One of the newest fall dishes. Nice and heavy, in a good way
Octopus – The lone meh! Slightly overcooked and forgettable when compared to the other dishes
Lumache – This is a hearty pasta dish. Its a snail shaped pasta (like elbows on crack) mixed with Tarragon pesto, clams, and those crunchy Filone crumbs I can eat with a spoon.
Cassata – If you like semifreddo, get this. If you dont like semifreddo, get this
Grillo by the glass – Its a bland, but a rare sighting of the Sicilian white. Its delicious.
Go!
Scampi
30 W 18th St (5/6), Flatiron
Rating: 2.5 Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: Razor Clams, Mafaldini, Langoustines, Lumache, Cassata
Bourekas at Gazala’s – Although a bigger and potentially better Gazala’s just opened in UWS, the little Hell’s Kitchen institution feels like the flagship. And 9th ave wouldnt be the same without these warm flaky, outrageously delicious pastries lining up the window front.
Z-List fanatics, both of them, already well familiar with this newest incarnation from Top Chef star Floyd Cardoz. But as with some other recent Z-List additions, I never got a chance to write a review on “Paowalla 2.0”. Paowalla’s blog post title would have read “Oops, I did it again”, after Cardoz essentially tried to recreate another fancy Tabla to satisfy his devotees. At BBB Cardoz is following his gut. And it works, a lot better than the “critics” leading to believe.
Its that time of the year, readers. When I dissect piece by piece this tourist trap in Chelsea we call the Chelsea Market. Did I get your attention now? “Tourist Trap”, a term used often when you read reviews about ultra touristy establishments. “Migrane” is something you get when you read what others have to say about something you know and love. “Himalayan Meditation Retreats” is what you Google three months after you open a restaurant in NYC.
Sometimes in order to find the best dishes, you need come back with friends. Not only you can try more, but you can finally order some of the larger dishes, like the chicken for 2 to 6. Such was the case the other day when we introduced our friends to one of our Soho faves, Pinch Chinese. An invitation that became a little suspicious when I walked in three hours prior to our reservations to reserve the bird while friends waited outside. I should have played it more subtle. As in “Hey, you guys want to try the chicken? I hear its fantastic!”
June 17, 2018 Update
Eating With Ziggy 