Posts Tagged With: travel+photography

10 Tips for Lisbon

Posted on July 22, 2023 by Ziggy

Wear comfortable shoes.

Ok, this is a joke. I may have touched on this in the past, but I still see this advice for Lisbon and just about every non-beach destination in the world. Is there a human left that doesnt already know this by now? Women think about this as soon as they book flights. If you give this advice to Mrs Z, she will give you the smackdown and show you all the blisters she got just today. And dont get me started on “Dont forget your camera”. Here are 10 real tips that you may or may not know by now

Dont sweat about location

People often ask for the best location on social media sites, and I’m still not sure what is the right answer. Its really not much different than any other capital. The sites and attractions are fairly spread out, and you will have cons and pros wit just about every area. This time we opted to stay at BessaHotel Liberdade and were very happy with the location, especially with the proximity to shopping. Its still good value for us Americans, and its got to be one of the best showers in Europe. With the built in bathroom speakers it felt like you are in an Irene Cara music video. What a feeling!

Reserve the most popular yesterday

Unlike say Paris, NYC, and much of the world, restaurant reservations are available months in advance in Portugal. For haute joints like Alma, its understandable that it could be a tough table to get, but even simpler non Michelin spots like O Velho Eurico, can be booked solid months out. Its a pain in the ass but worth seeking them out. Same advice for Porto.

Try Goan

Lisbon has a very large Bengali and Indian population. It was interesting to walk some of the streets like Rua do Benformoso and see nothing but Bengali and Indian joints all over. But since Goa, the Western Indian state, was once a Portuguese colony, there’s also that connection and history. Its not just a history listen, but the food is pretty darn good. Once you have eaten your way through all the seafood delights that Portugal has to offer, this is more than a nice change of pace. You got the great Jesus é Goês, Zuari, and many more options all over the city.

Researching Pasteis is mostly a waste of time

Years ago it was more or less clear that if you wanted the best Pasteis you had to go to the source, Pasteis de Belem. But these days, with so many bakeries and chains opening throughout the years, the competition increased and opinions vary. Many swear by Manteigaria, and many still stand firmly behind the royalty of Belem. But to me the most important ingredient is freshness, and that’s a little difficult to predict. For us, the most consistently fresh Pasteis came from Fábrica da Nata, in various Lisbon and Sintra locations. Regardless, if you are a food enthusiast, a visit to Pasteis de Belem is still a must.

Skip the flashy Sardines and do the Conserveira

Good sardines are expensive and hard to find in the US. In Porto and Lisbon you’ll find some very curious gimmicky instagramable sardine shops that may even feature a musician playing a musical instrument in a Phantom of the Opera type setting. I cant say to the quality of their cans, as I rather put my money on an old school, no frills, 4th generation family business like Conserveira de Lisboa. Its a place you go to buy canned seafood, not to browse around. And there’s literally nothing to see anyway except for your sardine consultant/salesmen. It’s the Di Palo’s of Lisbon. Lines can be long but its worth it

Spend time outside the center

The biggest change in Portugal today vs 10 years ago is that it became much more touristy. Its a very hot, trendy destination at the moment on top of the post pandemic revenge travel thats still ongoing. Dont be surprised to be surrounded by visitors all over the center. Its important then to spend some time outside the tourist zones, in areas like Príncipe Real, Campo de Ourique, or Ajuda. You’ll even see a big change in food prices. Bonus tip: Try getting to Churrasqueira do Marquês for grilled chicken, before walking to Belem. You’ll most likely be the only tourist there.

The hills are alive with the sound of pain

You read about them, you look at pictures, and you still arrive without care and proper plan to see every neighborhood and every view point in one day. Dont underestimate the hills, and some of the Miradouros (sponsored by Lisbon’s coalition of knee replacement specialists). They may wear you out by day one. Some require more effort than others. And if I have to choose just one Miradouro, it would be Miradouro de Santa Luzia in Alfama. And remember of course to wear comfortable shoes!

Uber is your friend, not the tram

Prices certainty increased over the years, but Uber is still quite cheap, especially when compared to a large USA city. They are quick, reliable, and sometimes you get a chance to meet a local. Its not so much a way to replace a tram, which is more of an attraction. But one look at the miserable faces of tram 28 riders stuck in traffic in Alfama is all you need. It’s also relatively expensive, crowded, and requires careful planning to avoid the queues, and pick pocketers..

You dont have to wait for Santa Justa Lift

I dont know who needs to hear this, but its still amazing to see long lines to Santa Justa, even though the walk up is 5 minutes. Take Rua do Carmo down, make a right, another right, and look for the stairs up to Carmo Convent. Unless you are already up, coming from Bairro Alto, just head to Carmo. If you must take the lift, the line down is much shorter.

Go on a Bordalo II hunting

This is a supremely talented “trash artist”. He converts junk into beautiful animal sculptures. You can find his work throughout the city, but some are a bit more difficult to get to. As of this writing to my knowledge you got the The Cat, “Sapo de Lixo”, Monkey, Panda, the new birds on the corner of Rua do Carmo and de Santa Justa by the lift, Raposa, and the Raccoon. If you can find them all, you’ll get a free annual subscription to EWZ.

Enjoy Lisboa!

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Quinta das Pedras – A Hidden Paradise Near Sintra

Posted on July 9, 2023 by Ziggy

How often do I write about a stay? After over 10 years, and hundreds of posts, I only remember three. A little farm near Aragona in Sicily, a winery in Tuscany, and our usual Turks and Caicos base where we’ve been staying since it was built. Portugal actually produced two stays worth writing about. Maybe a new blog is in order? Sleeping With Ziggy? Ok, I dont know why I went there.

But I am considering a few small changes to EWZ with design and one very unusual content tweak. Just to spice it up a bit, on a random post, I will add a very short show/movie review. I dont have the vocabulary arsenal of a movie reviewer (or food reviewer for that matter), but I’m a bit of a movie/show buff and got plenty to say and recommend. Any yeas or nays?

Speaking of streaming, when I sent a note to Ricardo, Quinta das Pedras’ passionate owner that I forgot to log off from Apple TV, he made it his mission to take care of it ASAP. Every single question or request throughout the booking process was answered within 5 minutes. Once you meet him you understand why.

Quinta das Pedras is a two room bed and breakfast in Belas, 15-20 minutes from Sintra. While its fairly close to Lisbon (20 minutes from Belém), I imagine most people, like us, pick it as their Sintra base, even though its not super convenient for Sintra either. You pick it for the pictures, the description and the 10 rating of the over 100 reviews on Booking. I’ve been using Booking.com for as long as I remember, and can’t remember ever seeing a property rated as such.

It’s virtually impossible to rate this place lower even if you find negatives. The kindness and attention to detail of the host, the gardens, the pool, and the countless of chachkies and collectibles throughout the property make it a 5 star experience for a 2 star price. We paid more than double to stay at a grand hotel in Philly last week, and the experience cant really compare.

Its a newish property that will most likely blossom into something you’ll need to book a year out. Ricardo’s grandparents essentially spent some time building a magnificent garden, and later on built a house near it. Inside the house and surroundings you’ll find many collectibles from their many travels from all over the world. From Zimbabwe to India, Israel, Ukraine.. etc. Its a museum, inside out.

The breakfast, and individual fruit salads alone worth the price of admission. Ricardo, the perfectionist, always there to take care of every need. He anticipates them like a three Michelin waiter. Just when you thought he’s taking care of your bedding, he’s outside the property directing traffic while you back out. It was like there were three of him.

But that’s not all. While communicating with Ricardo about the area food, he suggested to cook for us on one of the nights. Next thing you know, he’s running around with an apron setting up our table by the pool. A delicious Turkey with apricots, red wine and tarragon, with sides of broccoli and rice. We enjoyed it with the nice red we got from the Convento do Espinheiro in Evora (the other worthy writeup). Finished with a divine homemade choc mousse. A private meal by the pool for the price of an average restaurant.

As I mentioned the place has only two guest rooms. Perfect for two couples or a family. After a long day of palace hopping, the pool is extremely refreshing. That’s after you spend another hour walking around the property, taking the same pictures your took yesterday.

Quinta das Pedras

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Douro Valley – Of Pork, Wine Paint, and Penis Cookies

Posted on June 28, 2023 by Ziggy

Did I get your attention? Scroll down if you are just here for the cookie porn. But for the rest of you this post is all about our Douro day with Facebook group star Igor of Porto Tours and Transfers. Unless your trip is at least 6 months from now, forget it. You can try, but the dude is usually booked many months out. But you do have many options these days besides Igor, so dont despair.

This wasnt our first time seeing the valley. 12 years ago we explored it on our own, before Google Maps was a thing. Hitting dead ends, and dirt roads was just part of the adventure. I remember the feeling of finally finding Quinta de La Rosa, our most memorable lunch destination. Memorable for the view and attention mostly, as we were the lone guests. With Porto tourism increasing seemingly 10 fold since, eating at any Quinta facing the Duoro alone is a fantasy these days.

Quinta da Pacheca, undeniably one of the most interesting wineries we’ve ever come across. Its a stunner. Not small, not cheap, and it comes with its own resident artist, Oscar Rodriguez. You’ll see his work throughout the property. And before you know it, you are scratching heads at his studio trying to figure out how he’s able to create paintings with just 6 different kinds of wine.

We tasted a very respectable white, a robust red Reserva, and quite a potent 40 y/o Tawny. The Tawny alone worth the price of admission. Its the kind of property you want to spend some time, if not days (sleep in a giant wine barrel, anyone?). This is where you want to host your next wedding, or Gynecologist convention. The gynecologists may or may not have a problem with the bathroom glass doors and lack of privacy. What is it with Portugal and its fascination with bathroom glass doors.

Just across the river in Peso da Régua, O Maleiro was quite the tasty, ultra local treat for lunch. Family style is the name of the game. And there was plenty of game in the superb Alheira… boar, chicken, and plenty of spices. Grilled, not fried, made a difference. Its not particularly attractive after its sliced, but this was the best tasting sausage of the trip. Alheira was invented by jews in order to avoid expulsion. They hung sausages on their doors in order to show their solidarity, without revealing the true porkless recipe.

As satisfying as the grilled black pork and potatoes was, it was solidly out-staged by the juiciest pork loin this side of where you can find the juiciest pork loin. Served with a particularly addictive Feijao Frade – black eyed peas (or “mung beans” here) and kale salad. After the meal, you go to the side of the bar, and pour your own port. My kind of place.

We followed that mini feast with some road fruit shopping (those cherries!), a jaw dropping view point, and the sleepy town of Amarante for cookie porn. On our previous visit to Amarante, we somehow missed the penis cookies completely, but it turns out this town is totally obsessed with them. The history is hazy, but it seems like a weird way to honor patron saint São Gonçalo.

Apparently São Gonçalo had special skills, but not the kind your dirty mind assumes. He had special matchmaking powers where he would help an older female with low prospects find love. Besides the local festivals featuring all sorts of phallic cakes, its tradition for a man to give a penis shaped cookie to someone he desires. It works! I gave one to my friend Robert, and 20 minutes later he had a headache. Besides, the next day, the cookie got too hard! I knew I should have bought the one filled with cream. Ok, I’ll stop now.

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This is Evora

Posted on June 12, 2023 by Ziggy

How do you convert a building into the number one attraction in your city? Very simple. You dig out all the bodies from area cemeteries. Hire an interior decorator to help with the bones and skulls placement in the building. Display a cute welcome sign in the entrance, something like “we bones in here wait for yours to join us”. And voila! That’s pretty much what three monks did with roughly 5000 monk corpses at the Chapel of the Bones. One of many interesting sites to keep visitors entertained in and around the Alentejo capital of Evora.

There’s a certain atmosphere in Evora that is lacking in frenzied Porto and Lisbon. Most visitors come here on a day trip from Lisbon, either as part of a tour or on their own. You can see the contrast when visiting the cathedral before and after lunch when the tours start to disperse. This is why its best to stick around a few days. If you do, make it at the historic Convento do Espinheiro, a ridiculously affordable 5 star former convent, a few miles north of the city.

In addition to the bone church, and the cathedral with its reachable Insta roof, you’ll want to see the striking Roman Temple, preferably in the afternoon when the light is less harsh. Almost every other corner of Evora is a reminder of its complicated past. Mercadores (merchants) and Moeda (coin) streets in the Jewish quarter go back to the days when Jews did much of the banking. In the middle ages you were forbidden to lend money to members of your faith, so the majority Christians relied on the minority Jews.

Very few trippers make it to the University, second oldest in the country after Coimbra. Its main attraction, the Colégio do Espírito Santo building has a striking facade, and a game called “Lets find the library”. I can give you directions, but you’d be missing all the fun we had. Right next to the University is the beautiful Espírito Santo church that requires a separate ticket. Here you can play “lets find the turkey”. The one that commemorates the Jesuit missions to America. Or just chill at the beautiful public garden, chasing peacocks next to folly ruins.

University

And then there’s the Alentejo food and wine. Rustic, Tuscan-like fare, a welcomed change from the seafood heavy coast. Old timers like Fialho, and Taberna Típica Quarta-feira are intermingled with the new kids like Origens, bringing a new wave of flavors. I get the sense that Evora is becoming a food powerhouse. More on that soon.

And there’s no shortage of day trips from Evora. Estremoz, Elvas, the jaw dropping Monsaraz, Marvão, and the beautiful, still undiscovered Castelo de Vide just to name a few. A tour and lunch at the Michelined Herdade do Esporão, and Monsaraz is an easy and rewarding pair. And if you want to learn about the area cork production, David of Cortiçarte will help with that with much humor. Portugal supplies over 60% of the world’s cork.

Make sure to include Evora in your Portugal plans.

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CDMX – If I Can Offer Just One Tip

Posted on April 9, 2023 by Ziggy

Mexico City will open your eyes. You might as well forget everything you know about Mexican food and Mexican culture. If you think that tacos mostly come with hard shells, or the Day of the Dead parades have been around for a long time, prepare to be surprised. The latter was actually inspired by a recent James Bond Movie. And the former, Ok, I dont know anyone who eats at Taco Bell regularly, but you get my drift. They are out there.

This city may also change the way you travel. We American city slickers, often lean toward smaller… villages, small towns, country side, places that are total opposite of where we live. Mexico City, the largest Metropolitan in North America, challenges that theory. I’ve been thinking about going back from the moment we left. You get a sense of unfinished business.

I’ve never had so much to write after a short trip. I have many useful tips, even though we just barely scratched the surface. I will offer more tips in no time, but today I will offer just one. I dont want you to think I’m lazy (I most definitely am, but I dont want you to think that), but this tip is a rather important one.

Take the half day Markets and Street Food tour with Eat Like a Local.

“But Ziggy, arent you a guide, or a former guide or something? And so, arent you biased?”. Good question Timmy! It’s true. But I only love to write about experiences I like. There are some tours I took in Europe and the US that I never mentioned here. And being a former guide, and someone who’s been taking tours all over the world, gives you a decent understanding of what a good tour should be.

Simply put, this is an outstanding tour. It’s a little more expensive than other tours in CDMX but you do get what you pay for and then some. Mainly you get the benefit of a limit of 6 guests, which is the lowest I’ve seen outside of private tours. It’s a female only, CDMX born group that focuses on responsible tourism including paying the vendors well. Judging by the smiles and hugs we witnessed, this is not a gimmick.

The focus is on Merced and Jamaica markets with some snacking in Condesa at the beginning and end. What you get is a brilliant array of street food including insects, tacos, fruits, sweets, huitlacoche (corn fungus), incredible corn in a cup, and a life altering green Chorizo taco that did not need any salsa or anything really. About 20 tastings but we never felt too full. Very good pace, and plenty of much needed rests for a drink when needed. With a small group (us and another couple) it was like a local showing us around. You get a better understanding and appreciation of local culture (see first two paragraphs).

Taking food tours anywhere is usually a good idea. In addition to the usual benefits there are the added intangibles like meeting other travelers, and spending time with a local. And so you are often at the mercy of the person you meet, and Panda, our guide (thats her nickname) is just the right kind you want to spend four hours with. They bill their tours for people who hate tours. You wont find too many tours out there that involve subway rides, and such small groups. But this is also for people who love tours.

Eat Like a Local Mexico – Best food tours in Mexico City
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This is CDMX

Posted on March 31, 2023 by Ziggy

CDMX – Ciudad de México – Mexico City to those not familiar. If you’ve never been to Mexico City city, there’s a decent chance you never heard of it referred as CDMX before. I was in that camp up until six months ago when I decided to make a birthday trip out of it. And now all I can think of is what took me so long, and where in NYC can I get a decent Suadero, or green chorizo taco.

The good news is that I will write in more detail about CDMX soon, especially about the food. The bad news, I scheduled mouth surgery right after the trip (yesterday) so I am out of commission in NYC for a few weeks unless you want me to review Oatmeal. Quaker’s Raisin, Date, Walnut is winning that horse race for now.

But for the time being, I will just tell you, in all my years of travel, I’ve never seen anything like CDMX. The combination of distinctly different neighborhoods, sprawling markets, street food everywhere you turn, jaw dropping monuments, world class museums, is on another level. I expected to see different, and I got that and then some.

It’s incredibly rich culture is best understood via food of course, although there are some interesting boutique museums that help describe in other ways. In addition to the plethora of street food, and I mean plethora, you got a hefty amount of contemporary options including two in the coveted “top 50 restaurants in the world” list. Will tell more soon.

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This is Lecce

Posted on December 27, 2022 by Ziggy

I’m almost done writing about Puglia. I got a doozy I’m saving for last. But it would feel incomplete without mentioning “Florence of the South”, even though its not exactly a secret anymore. We happened to be travelling to Florence after Lecce, and that made us appreciate Lecce even more. Even with the tour groups arriving in droves, Lecce still feels like a sleepy hilltop village when compared to Florence. Lecce’s old town is not large, but its golden sandstone streets make for pleasant walks even when you pass by the same streets and cats every morning.

Lecce is one of the strongest reasons that Puglia requires some time (at least 10 days), and it’s old town splendor compliments the Puglia itinerary beautifully. Its also a solid base to explore Salento. You got Otranto and its mesmerizing coast 30 minutes to the east. Gallipoli 30 minutes the other way, along with spectacular beaches like Punta Prosciutto that was calling my name for some bizarre reason. And lesser known jewels like Galatina and its frescoed Basilica in between.

Palazzo Massari, a comfortable bed and breakfast very near the old town ticked all the boxes especially in the parking department. We found Lecce to be easy to get in and out, even with some sneaky ZTL entrances. On your first day, a good way to get oriented with the old town and its history is a food tour with Antonella through Airbnb experiences. While there wont be a food shortage with this one, much of the focus is on history and culture.

Even if you’ve seen every church in Italy, you do not want to miss the significant Lecce handful, especially the crown jewel Basilica di Santa Croce (above). Another gem, of the hidden not so hidden kind is the Jewish museum in the ancient synagogue right next to Santa Croce. A short tour of the six or so rooms and a short video gives you a good understanding of the history of Jews in Salento.

The notion that Lecce food is meh overall (as per some well known bloggers) is a misnomer from our experience. Maybe compared to the major cities of the north, its lacking, but there doesnt appear to be a shortage of good eats. You can eat well and poorly just about anywhere in Italy. Ristorante Blu Notte and 400 Gradi for pizza were the highlights. La bottega del corso is a fun cheese/salumi/bruschetta quicky. The lone miss was an expensive meat-fest at Tabisca. More here, and more to come.

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Provo – Food for Thought 2022

Posted on December 11, 2022 by Ziggy

Thanks to Covid, longest Providenciales hiatus since we discovered the Turks and Caicos islands roughly 15 years ago. Like Columbus, we just happened to be sailing the Atlantic, south of the Bahamas until we found these beautiful, barely manned islands one day and we never looked back. Much has changed since then especially in the food department. The weather didnt cooperate this time, but once you are there, the Provo zen kicks in, and you ignore all your problems. A plethora of great dining options help. Unlike previous visits, even some new places delivered this time. Here’s the recap…

Sweet T’s

Provo is generally expensive, even for NYC standards. But that doesnt mean you cant find cheap local eats. Even with prices pretty much doubling since we started coming to Sweet T’s, its fried chicken is still the best deal in town. You order by the dollar amount. For $5 you get about 10 full wings which is enough for two. Add $2 fries, $1.50 bottled water, $1.50 tip and you got yourself a meal for $10. This has become our usual first stop after landing since its a 2 minute drive from the airport.

Hemingway’s

One of the obligatory lunches for fish and chips and fish tacos at the Sands. While the fish and chips are still the same old flaky goodness, and perfectly seasoned fries… err.. chips, the fish tacos were just ok this time. The tortillas got soggy pretty quickly and the mango salsa sweetness was a little more prevalent this time. Wife liked them though so who cares

Mango Reef 

I haven’t been in MR in so long I forgot why I dislike it. Last visit was at the old location at the Alexandra. I figured since its still fairly popular it’s time to try again in the newer location in Turtle Cove. New verdict: Same as the old. Tuna salad was as basic as something you get in a Panera Bread. Coconut Shrimp was more like it. Appetizer lineup was somewhat lacking, forcing me to order things I don’t usually order. Grilled Snapper was serviceable if not a tad dry. The saving grace was the lobster curry. Surprisingly well balanced curry with just enough heat. I would come back just for this. Mango cheesecake was good and pretty to look at. Sexy even if I may say. Ambiance was that of a cheap wedding that didn’t pay for music. Even the drinks were wedding-like weak.

Omar’s Beach Hut

When Grace Bay misbehaves, head to the always dependable Sapodilla Bay (see below) or Taylor Bay, followed by lunch at Omar’s in Five Cays. You will pass a rough stretch on the way, but the location is superb. Omar spent many years managing Bugaloos next door so he’s no stranger to the conch scene. In almost godfather-like fashion everyone gets a chance to meet him. Well almost everyone. Waiter: “Did you see Omar”. Me: “No, I went to the bathroom, but he met my wife”. Waiter: Would you like to see Omar”. Me: “Ahhm, I think we are good, thanks”.

My lone concern was that “Island time” will take away from FIFA time, but it was quick and tasty. Conch fritters was proof that they dont necessarily need to be crispy to be supremely flavorful. Fish tacos topped with a nice tomato salsa were decent. The winner was the oxtail. You can tell a lot of love went into preparing this dish. Just wished there was more rice to accompany that sick dark gravy. And pretty much the best, freshest plantains we’ve had anywhere. Outstanding lunch.

The Almond Tree

One of the new and exciting kids on the Provo block, located in the stunning Shore Club. Pretty busy on a Sunday since many places including all my favorites pretty much closed. Open kitchen, but surprisingly ventilation issues for such an open layout. Nice looking space dominated by a large tree in the center. I’m guessing of a nut variety (almond?). The food is elevated American comfort food with an emphasis on the south.

The standout was the Pulled Braised Short Rib that comes on three little biscuits. Very nicely executed. The Gnocchi was nice and creamy. Pine nuts and sun dried tomatoes just for decor I suppose, and not much truffle essence from the truffle cream. But still enjoyed it. Old Bay Seasoned Shrimps (doubt it was named by famed executive chef Martin Davies) was good but essentially basic shrimp and grits. Maybe average if you eat it regularly in the south or high end places. Bread was stale, and service overall was lacking. Its a soft recommendation from me for now. If you are after the familiar (nothing wrong with that) go for it.

Cocovan

A quick enjoyable lunch at this popular Airstream food truck. I preferred the fried chicken sandwich over the grilled Mahi sandwich, she preferred the Mahi, and we both concluded that the Churros were the best thing we ever ate here. Fresh, light, fluffy and awesome. My lone gripe is the elevated prices even for Provo.

Le Bouchon

One of two regulars for dinner. Another flawless meal from start to finish. I think the most common complaint about LB has always been the service, but I feel more confident that kinks are mostly fixed. We’ve been coming here long enough to know what works best for us. Any type of Carpaccio. This time a silky smooth, melts in your mouth tuna. Add a touch of their excellent salt.. superb. Conch Chowder is always flavor packed with plenty of heat. Comes with this Harrisa sauce on the side in case you need even more heat and complexity. Steak Au Poivre still the bomb. You can tell it’s cooked well as soon as you touch it. Maybe a tad on the blue side for us as we prefer medium rare. The fries are like the best McDonalds fries you’ll ever have. And yet another perfectly cooked fresh snapper that makes other island Snappers pale in comparison (I’m looking at you Mango).

Indigo

New for us. A fantastic experience from start to finish that deserves a dedicated post. Will update soon.

Chinson’s

Part of our busy lunch rotation (we are the only Seven Stars guests that hardly eat at the resort). This is where we usually get our Jerk and goat curry fix. So often whether in Anguilla or here we get lesser quality fatty goat, but this one was not the case. Not as spicy as I remember but just as enjoyable. Same for the terrific Jerk chicken. That sauce! I till haven’t washed my hands properly since. The local Gon-Ta-Nort Amber is the beverage of choice throughout the week, again.

Caicos Cafe

Our first and last meal on every trip. Sometimes we even sneak one in the middle. Italian with a Caribbean twist. One of a few mid to high end spots that attract many locals. I met an Italian woman in Sapodilla who said “they are the only ones” when I asked about for her favorite Italian on the island. Well, at first she said “my kitchen”. The one gripe this time is that there were no specials on both visits which was always a rarity. Whether its a fresh Wahoo, Grouper, or a pasta of sorts, I’ve always enjoyed the specials here. But we persevered and then some.

The Tuna Carpaccio on one visit, Tuna Tartare on another were standouts, the former in particular. Just the perfect combination of silky smooth tuna with quality EVOO, salt and pink peppercorns. The Gnocchi was the same ol’ pillowy awesomeness. You won’t find more delicate gnocchi anywhere. The only app that paled in comparison to previous visits is the Octopus. Still good, but missing some of the old oomph.

During lobster season you can count on a solid Spaghettoni Lobster Fra Diavolo. We “Scarpetta’d” the heck out of that sauce with the usual quality bread. On the second night we enjoyed the pungent and meaty Orecchiette. The grilled lobster here is serviceable. I would also feel confident ordering ribs and steak here as we’ve done in the past. And you most likely wont find a better Affogato anywhere in the world. Its a mystery why no one else adds Baily’s to the mix.

Summary and Random Tidbits:

Standout meals: Le Bouchon, Caicos Cafe, Indigo, Omar’s, Chinson’s.

Standout dishes: Snapper at LB, Tuna Carpaccio at CC, Conch Chowder at Indigo, Oxtail at Omar’s, Curried goat at Chinson’s, Churros at Cocovan, short ribs app at Almond Tree, lobster curry at Mango Reef, Affogato at CC

If you are staying at the Seven Stars or even if you dont, try the Tuna Wrap and Caesar’s Salad for lunch.

Pick up some sandwiches for the flight back at Julien Deli (Le Bouchon owner). The Julien classic is good, especially according to Julien

Try picking up the new WhereWhenHow Dining Guide there or read it online. http://onlineissues.wherewhenhow.com/publication/?m=19978&l=1&p=&pn=

A couple of places I wanted to check out but ran out of time:

Sj’s Curryclub – Recommended by a few locals. Opened by a Provo veteran most recently at Graces Cottage. I’m told it’s a small place. I love Indian too much so not usually looking for it on vacation, but I was intrigued by some southern dishes like Chicken Chettinad.

Conch & Coconuts – Recently opened near Turks Kebab. That’s pretty much the extent of my knowledge about it. Would be nice to have a solid affordable local place in the hub even though that particular location can use some sprucing up

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The Case For Cisternino

Posted on November 24, 2022 by Ziggy

You may not know how to pronounce it, but have probably heard of Puglia or Apulia. You may even heard of Bari, Alberobello, Lecce, and your British aunt may have mentioned Polignano a Mare once or twice. But unless you’ve been researching Puglia extensively, you probably never heard of Cisternino. Blame Puglia’s wealth of stunners, many of which concentrated at the heart of Puglia, Itria Valley. I cant think of another Italian region that boasts such wealth in such proximity.

Cisternino therefore is easy to overlook, but I’d argue that its the best base to explore the region with a car. Most pick the more famous Ostuni, 20 km to the south. But Cisternino is not only better positioned, but has a lot of things going for it. It reminds me of the Varenna and Bellagio situation in Lake Como. Its a small mystery why most chose Bellagio to this day where Varenna is not only more convenient, but arguably as attractive.

Draw the main sites in Valle d’Itria, and you’ll find Cisternino smack in the middle of it all. 30 is the magic number. Less than 30 minutes to another white stunner, Locorotondo, the mentioned Ostuni, and mother of Capocollo, Martina Franca. Food heaven Ceglie Messapica and the great Cibus is 16 km away. Cisternino is not only surrounded by Trulli but Trulli capital Alberobello is less than 30 minutes away. Then 30 minutes down the shore you got Polignano a Mare and Monopoli. And the nearby stretch between Savelletri and Torre Canne not only boasts some of the best beaches in the area, but known for its seafood.

Sometimes you come across a place that ticks all your boxes. One of mine is not only good food, but preferably a place that specializes in something. Cisternino is known for the Fornello Pronto, a network of butchers that will barbecue the meat of choice on the spot. Walk in, choose your meat, pay, and grab a table. Might as well make that meat another local specialty, Bombette, small meat rolls stuffed with cheese and pancetta, though you may find various variations.

But if you happen to lead a largish group like I did, or simply seek a more traditional sit down, there are no shortages here. Family owned and operated Ristorante Mezzofanti, recommended by our host, is literally a hidden gem in a quiet corner of the old town. Try the baked Entrecote with breadcrumbs, and honey mustard. Neapolitanish Pizzeria Doppio Zero is dope! And quite popular so make reservations.

Dining options get even more interesting in the country side. One is Il Cortiletto, a Slow Food guide recommendation in the tiny village of Speziale. Here you’ll find a charming cameo appearance of the chicken, and an exceptional version of the Altamura specialty Tette delle Monache, that may or may not be safe to Google at work (its means Nun’s tits). Another option is Masseria Il Frantoio for a family style set menu dinner in a striking environment. If you overlook the lavish wedding service, you’ll enjoy the elevated traditional grandma cooking with matching wine.

You dont have to stay inside Cisternino in order enjoy it, although waking up inside the empty old town is probably an experience in itself. The beauty in this part of Puglia is the variety of accommodations like Trulli, Masserias, or both (Masserias with Trulli). Consider Masseria Cervarolo, or the more subdued and homey Spetterrata, a short 15 minute drive from Cisternino, and 20 from Ostuni.

Categories: Italy, Puglia | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

Soul Kitchen {Matera} – When Ziggy Met Mimmo

Posted on November 1, 2022 by Ziggy
Soul Kitchen

Unlike the old guards like Anthony Bourdain, today’s TV food personalities are in the dangerous habit of hugging every chef they meet. It seems a bit more natural to chief hugger Phil Rosenthal than Stanley Tucci who occasionally forces it uncomfortably. But whether the hug recipients like it or not, its really the ultimate sign of respect and validation for their hard work. Since we are mostly a polite species, words can only do so much. But for me, in order to waltz into a kitchen to hug the chef, at the very least I need to get a little intimate with his/her meat. I dont care how that sounds.

So perhaps for the 5th time in my life I hugged a chef. It happened in Matera, during Covid times no less. Judging by the firmness of the youngest of the two brothers who run the excellent Soul Kitchen, the feeling I assume was mutual. It was the type of hug you only see in funerals. The equivalent of roughly 500 Google reviews, or 700 Trip Advisor. By the end of the evening, I was at the home of a newly discovered and favorite cousin where we can argue about politics, and Eurovision songs. You just cant talk about Bruno or bread. Matera vs Altamura can be a touchy subject.

Some meals are like movies. They start a bit shaky, and can turn into epics. A table mix-up with another group resulted in some uncomfortable moments but all ended well. I’m always careful abroad with jokes that may not translate well, but I let one get away this time. Other personalities would have kicked us out, but not this loveable teddy bear. I haven’t met the older brother, but I can only imagine that he possesses the same passion as the younger Mimmo. You can see it in his eyes, hear it in his voice, and definitely taste it in his creations.

Mimmo, with high end stints in Miami and other cities, pays homage to Matera specialties like the appropriately named Crapiata (rustic local bean soup) but at the same time can elevate with flair. Most in the know, come here to experience the outstanding Podolica (the southern answer to Chianina and Fassone) Ribeye. This expertly cooked cut ranks up there with anything we had in Tuscany.

And then you have the Risotto with Porcini, a trip spoiler in a way. Just about every mushroomless Risotto whether its red wine or cheese based, tastes inferior after this. Another standout was a Panna Cotta with Crusco peppers and orange infused olive oil. When you finish one of those meals with a dessert like this, its like culinary extasy. Hence what followed. We had other dishes but these were the memorable ones.

In one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, the gastronomy scene is still in its infancy. In my brief time in Matera I didnt get a chance to try much, but you get the sense that its already an especially competitive environment. Soul Kitchen is full of just that and is as solid as its its rock cave home.

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