Posts Tagged With: Travel

7 Tips for Lake Maggiore

Posted on November 12, 2024 by Ziggy

As usual I will provide 7 random tips for a destination we enjoyed. Even in pouring rain. I mean, non stop rain throughout our stay from the moment we got there to the moment we left. The forecast literally showed sunshine at the time of our flight back, followed by 10 days of nothing but sun. Like a sick joke. It wasnt so much the rain that bothered us, but the lack of blue skies. Pretty sure they are related! But rain or shine, this was a memorable trip to say the least. The lake offers much more than what day trippers come to see.

Check the calendar

Dont arrive in the middle of November and expect everything to be open. This is a very seasonal destination. The Borromean islands are already closed for the season as of this writing. And even when everything seems open like in mid October, ferries to some destinations like Verbania and Santa Caterina may be limited at best.

Yes, do all three islands

Like many, I contemplated whether all three islands are worth visiting. Isola Bella and the jaw-dropping palace is reason enough to hop on a plane, while the other two are not in the same league. But they still offer plenty of charm, and compliment each other well. Do Isola Bella in the morning, have lunch at the “food island” Isola Superiore, before doing the passeggiata along with the exotic birds on stunning Isola Madre.

Learn to read the ferry schedule

Learning about the various options, private or public ferries, and juggling all that with the destinations requires some advanced planning. If you simply want to do the three islands, the public ferry will suffice, and a hop on hop off day ticket is the best option. But while waiting for the ferry, spend some time getting familiar with the schedule slip. Like if you take the next ferry from X toward Z, make sure that it continues to Z after stopping at Y. Less of an issue in the peak summer months.

Check out the Palace hotels

One of the biggest surprises, if not the biggest in Stresa for us was the stunning hotels along the Lake Maggiore shore. The expansion of the Simplon railway in late 19th century, and into the 20th, connecting Switzerland and Italy, literally put little Stresa village on the map. The expansion resulted in a direct line from Paris to Milan which meant travelers needed a break somewhere, preferably by a lake. The result was luxurious hotels like Regina Palace and Grand Hotel Des Iles Borromee. They are nice to visit, but dont seem shockingly expensive either.

Visit Arona

Had enough of penis shaped Limoncellos staring at you from every corner in Stresa? Head to Arona, a picturesque resort town with a fraction of the foreign tourists of the north. It boasts an elegant old town with all sorts of cute shops, and jaw-dropping monuments like the giant Sancarlone. Good stop on the way to or from Stresa.

Have your Seafood fix at Il Clandestino

You can spend weeks in Piedmont before realizing your love handles got bigger and that you havent seen any seafood on menus. Il Clandestino and its animated chef/owner is almost literally doctor orders. Its not as famous as Il Vicoletto and others in the area, so much more accessible. The bonus is that you dont even need to open the menu which consists entirely of seafood. The owner comes out and asks you what you feel like eating, and the result is glorious. Just make sure that includes the sick Spaghetti with seafood mix. One of the best I ever had.

Stay and eat at Casa Rampolina

No need to stay at Stresa at all as you have a plethora of unique options all over the area. One of them is a hamlet right about Stresa called Campino where you can find a handful of guesthouses including Casa Rampolina. I’m easy to please, but I travel with someone who’s not. A small place of only 5 rooms, but a big heart. From the shower, to the bed, room size, service, and homemade breakfasts, four enthusiastic thumbs up. And due to the weather we didnt even take advantage of their top draw, the magnificent views of Lake Maggiore.

But that’s not all. La Rampolina, their restaurant just happens to be one of the most popular in the entire region with locals. Its so popular that they need a parking attendant to manage the traffic. On our night, a famous three Michelin star chef just happened to celebrate a family function there. Hard to imagine a bigger endorsement. It deserves a dedicated post, so stay tuned.

 

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L’Acino – Our Top Meal in Turin

Posted on November 3, 2024 by Ziggy

And we had some good ones. Instead of keeping the best for last, and boring you with the rest of the stuff, I decided to start with the Crème de la crème, and bore you later. There’s a method behind this madness. Although I do have another top food experience in Turin that’s not a restaurant. I wont spoil it for you, but it rhymes with “Mood Tour”. The second best Mood Tour we ever took.

Sometimes you feel it in your gut as soon as you walk in. You just know this will be a good one. I havent felt that in any place in Turin, other than at L’Acino. You are in the presence of greatness. Not to mention surrounded by good looking people, so obviously we felt belong (how many times you’ll use this joke Ziggy?).

The elderly, energetic mom/pop owners greet you like family. He masterfully runs the front, while she runs the kitchen like a well oiled machine, and brings out the magic on a plate. I’m only in my late 40’s (54 to be exact) and I wish I had this kind of energy. One minute he’s welcoming, another minute he’s taking orders, and before you know it, he’s hovering right above us looking for the perfect red for table 5. Its like there were three of him. Last time I said that, I discovered there was actually a twin helping out in a Paris joint.

Finally tried the famous Cherasco snails. Snails farmed in a city called Cherasco in the Langhe. Dont even recall seeing them on the menu at the great La Torre in Cherasco 10 years ago. I was surprised by the way they were served. Unlike any escargot I ever had. The snails are meatier, but its more of a sum of all parts kind of dish, with the tomatoes, garlic and plenty of spices.

The onion was an even bigger revelation. Stuffed with perfectly spiced sausage and with that cheese sauce, a brilliant combination. When chief onion hater Mrs Z, eats onion, it must be very special. Another such onion saw similar fate in Serravalle Langhe. When you see a stuffed onion in Piedmont, pounce.

Beef braised with red Roero (Beef Stracotto Al Roero) and expertly cooked potatoes was just solid comfort food. Satisfying, albeit familiar. The Tajarin with ragu was less familiar. While I had plenty of Tajarin with ragu, this one had sweeter oomph to it, in a very satisfying to the palate kind of way. Owner (Didnt catch his name. “Fabio” according to Google AI which I dont trust) said its from the carrots.

All washed down with excellent Barbera by the glass. Surprisingly we appreciated and enjoyed Barbera more than Nebbiolo on this trip. The only negative to some, not so much to me, was two sittings, and requiring reservations (including via email) weeks in advance. A bit of a victim of its own success and fame. Considering the many accolades, being surrounded by locals was a surprise, a refreshing one. Go!

L’Acino – Via San Domenico, 2/A, Torino

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Case for La Morra

Posted on October 28, 2024 by Ziggy

I’ve been having an almost unhealthy obsession with this part of Piedmont since we visited it 10 years ago. That’s how long it took to convince Mrs Z to come back to a place not rich with monuments and attractions. The Langhe, and its many striking Belvederes is the main attraction. Though arguably the best food and wine combo in Italy is an attraction in itself, and reason enough to come.

And when you finally pull the trigger, might as well base yourself in La Morra. A tiny hilltop village, surrounded by other tiny hilltop villages in the middle of Barolo wine country. You dont need an entire day to see La Morra, but you’d want to spend some time here exploring the area, starting and ending with Piazza Castello and La Morra Belvedere. We didnt get much blue skies during our recent four days in La Morra in rainy October, but Google has no shortage of sunny images.

La Morra is the perfect base for many reasons. The proximity to Alba (14 km), Barolo village (7 km) and many other interesting villages and towns like Cherasco (known for snails and chocolates), Verduno (home to the Pelaverga grape), and Bra (where the famous Bra sausage is made) is one reason. Even Turin is less than an hour away. The village itself is atmospheric, with just enough shops, restaurants and bars to entertain tourists for a few hours, if not days. The shops here are the tasteful kind, selling local products, not penis shaped Limoncellos.

For such a small village, you have no shortage of food, good food. Osteria More e Macine is very popular with both visitors and locals, and some of the best value we’ve experienced in Italy. Reservations are a must. For a light meal after a big lunch elsewhere (Whether its the great Il Centro in Priocca or La Coccinella), UVE Wine bar will do the trick. But stick to wine here. Not the place to experiment with grape beer.

The Langhe has what many believe to be the highest concentration of great dining in Italy. Notables that are a short drive away: Osteria La Torre (Cherasco), Agnulot (Verduno), Ca ‘del Re (Verduno), L’Osteria del Vignaiolo, Osteria Veglio.

Around La Morra is vineyards galore of course. Some, like the excellent Voerzio Martini, you can just walk to. By appointment only of course. This is not Napa Valley or even Tuscany, where you can show up without reservations. But do make an effort to see the gems outside the area, like Manzone Giovanni, and see Monforte d’Alba while you at it. Stick to small, family producers.

Parking in La Morra is a little tricky. We usually found spots in Piazzale Monera. And if you are a fan of small boutique hotels, look no further than Relais Le Rocche. Ticks all the boxes. Location, views, friendliness, heated pool, comfort, sublime breakfasts, and even dinners from what I heard during breakfast. A ten minute walk to the heart of the village.

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Is Napa Valley America’s Biggest Tourist Trap?

Posted on September 26, 2024 by Ziggy

After visiting Napa for the first time in 30 years, I can confidently say… Yes, and No. I can also confidently say, this is the first and last post about Napa on EWZ. This is a big planet, with hopefully more planets to come (I’m really enjoying For All Mankind on Apple). While I have a laundry list of places I want to revisit, Napa Valley is not one of them.

Lovely Mrs Z and I were in our 20’s when we first visited Napa, followed by Las Vegas which we visited often back in the day for some reason. I vividly remember touring the world famous Beringer (as per their website), buying a case of their world famous something (maybe Zinfandel). We hauled the case with us to Vegas, then on a plane, and back home to NYC, only to discover the same wine cheaper in Costco. Thats my only memory (and lesson) from that visit.

Napa was a logical choice this time as part of a long Portland-LA road trip. It seemed like a refreshing change of pace after exploring the Oregon coast. Wine, scenery, that farm to table stuff I kept hearing about. All the things I love about a destination. Hence, the problem.

This is the kind of destination we normally seek. Like the Langhe in Piedmont, Tuscany, Croatia’s Istria, Getaria and Ronda in Spain, just to name a few. Even some of the areas in Virginia near Shenandoah are shockingly striking considering its, well, Virginia. After all these destinations, Napa overall was a letdown, and quite the sticker shock. The Disneyland vibes started to kick in before we even got there.

Considering the top attraction in the valley is a 13th century style structure that resembles and sounds like an Italian castle except it costs $70, is pretty much all you need to know. But in case you need more, there’s also a Gondola ride, a wine train, and a myriad of Instagramble wineries that range from $50 to $200 to visit. With everyone trying to outdo each other, it’s essentially the worlds largest outdoor beauty contest.

While researching Napa you get a sense that paying less than $50 for a tasting is not worth the time, and anything over $50 is not worth the money. I eventually settled on Quixote Winery, Caymus Vineyards, and Francis Ford Coppola Winery. All unique, and attractive in their own way, with Caymus coming out as the group’s favorite experience, albeit at a cost ($50) for a tasting. I recently booked a tasting in Piedmont that includes 5 world class wines including Barolo, accompanies by cured meats and cheese and a property tour for $18 pp. A similar experience in Napa is around $150.

But I would be fine with a few overpriced but picturesque wineries if I could find something else to do and see, and eat some of that famous Farm to Table food I heard about all my life. But turned out every restaurant we visited is geared toward tourists, and the food reflected that. Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch has farm in its name, but the room and food felt more like a glorified Applebee’s. Angele a French Bistro served us the worst Escargot I ever had, among other duds. These are some of the most popular places in the Valley, packed to the brim every night.

But there were a few highlights including in the food department. Gott’s Roadside is the kind of burger chain every state should have. Not only quality gourmet burgers, but really crafty tacos and even salads. Why are they only in the Napa area? Another highlight was hot air ballooning with Sonoma Ballooning. A fantastic experience from start to finish, aided by a hilarious pilot. We still managed to have fun, but the question of the title stands.

Categories: California | Tags: , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Oregon/California Coast Highlights

Posted on September 7, 2024 by Ziggy

This is the coast portion of a recent Portland-Napa-LA road trip. While we’ve done the SF-LA coast multiple times, the northern parts was a first for us. Good seafood, seals, scenic drives, eyepopping sea stacks, and plenty of redwoods. Here are some of the highlights (food included).

Cannon Beach – Our first stop. Pleasant town to walk around with shops and galleries galore. Good Fish and Chips at Ecola Seafood Restaurant. Nice views from Ecola Point Viewpoint in Ecola State Park. The jaw-dropping Haystack Rock is the perfect welcome to Oregon coast.

Tillamook Creamery – Not exactly a secret, and not exactly the best ice cream I ever had, but this is such a neat place. A factory allowing you to see much of the process cost free. A general store where you can stack up on some gourmet(ish) snacks for the drive. And an artisanal ice cream shop that you can enjoy outside or in. A must stop IMO.

Cape Kiwanda Sand Dune – For city slickers like us, walking to the top of the dune and running down like children was quite the experience.

Clearwater Restaurant (Newport) – Probably our best meal on the coast. Surprisingly tasty Asian inspired dishes like Orange Cauliflower and crab and garlic noodles. A dock full of seals in the back is reason enough to come. It was like watching an episode of Planet Earth

Darlingtonia State Natural Site – A small area where you can see carnivorous cobra lilies. This is one of those perfect pit stops on a drive like that. A short walk to see something so unique and different than anything else on the coast. And its free.

Note, I’m listing highlights only, not necessarily the biggest and most popular attractions like Sea Lion Caves, Heceta Head Lighthouse, and others that werent as memorable.

Nosh Eatery (Florence) – Pleasant surprise considering I was aiming for Mari’s Kitchen next door which was closed. Very solid juicy ribs and salmon bowl. I was intrigued by Mari’s Kitchen Romanian leaning menu, but Nosh did the job.

Shore Acres State Park – I almost wrote the gardens at Shore Acres but the entire park is truly stunning. Its a little out of the way but very much worth it. To see the gardens, head to the gift shop.

Endicott Gardens Bed & Breakfast – If I could only give one tip. We’ve come to realize that we are hotel people, but I still like to mix in experiences such as this in between Holiday Inns. Its such a special and unique place. A super friendly couple that used to own a restaurant in Colorado manages this 4(?) room property. The garden alone worth the price of admission. And to top it all, an outstanding three course garden to table Breakfast. Fantastic value.

Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor – One of the more dramatic parts of the Oregon coast. Highlights are Arch Rock State Park, and “Natural Bridges”

SeaQuake Brewing (Crescent City) – Solid pizza and beer. For pizza snubs from NYC this was as good as I was hoping for a place like this. The rest of the menu is promising as well

Trees of Mystery – A Redwoods theme park with a giant Paul Bunyan at the entrance. For Fargo fans, this is your chance!

Simpson-Reed Trailhead (Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) – The perfect hike (about a mile) after a longish drive, and a good introduction to the Redwoods.

Avenue of the Giants – How often do you get to drive on a 30 mile road surrounded by Redwoods. It runs parallel to the 101 with multiple exit points when you have enough Forest Bathing

Garden at Shore Acres
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Caminito del Rey – The Safest Scariest Hike in the World

Posted on August 30, 2024 by Ziggy

If you are even remotely into hiking, add this to the bucket list. 7.7 km, half of which on an elevated narrow boardwalk secured to the side of a cliff on top of a spectacular gorge. Once nicknamed the most dangerous hike in the world, its not nearly as scary today. After a record 5 people killed in 2000, officials finally decided to do something and took 15 years to build a new path. Imagine graduating with a civil engineering degree and getting hit with this assignment.

Considering the commercial aspect of this attraction and the way its organized, the hike as expected felt completely safe. The spectacular vistas on every turn help forget that a few wooden boards are between you and stuff on the rocks (sorry). The only time you feel like you had enough is during the last 30 minutes. A very boring walk to the bus that didnt seem to end.

Although outside of most tourist radar in Andalucia, you need to reserve this months in advance. Most likely, like us, you’ll reserve a timed walk with a guide (extra) as the DIY tickets are few and sell out quickly. At some point during the tour you may opt out and walk at your own pace. The guide will fill you in with the history and local flora and fauna. At some point our guide pointed to a bird flying above us and asked us what it was, and all I could think was partridge, after the amazing dinner the night before. Partridge was incorrect she said.

The one thing most blogs dont tell you is that it takes 45-60 minutes to get from the parking lot to the starting point, which involves a shuttle and a hike in itself. Thats why the small print will suggest to arrive an hour early. But I dont think they turn anyone away if a little late, due to the difficulties involved to get there. Although the hike is only two hours or so, allow at least half a day for this.

Unless you have an incredible amount of energy, do Caminito del Rey in the morning. 10:30 was ideal for us but I would go even earlier. Allow an hour to get there from Ronda, Malaga or elsewhere. Its a good stop when moving from one base to another. There is some food huts at the end, but I would avoid at least the milkshakes since everyone who had them in our group got sick. Go!

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This is Jaén (and MangasVerdes)

Posted on August 13, 2024 by Ziggy

Sometimes it starts with a photo. I remember late in the planning stages, seeing a photo of the Jaén cathedral from the top of town and before you know it, I’m researching olive oil producers, area castles, and the exact location of that shot. I’ll save you the headache: Mirador “El Balcón del Santo Reino” on Google Maps.

The Mirador and Castillo de Santa Catalina, the 8th century castle that King Ferdinand III of Castile captured in 1246 are reasons enough to make Jaén a worthy stop between Cordoba and Granada. According to legend, after defeating the Nasrid dynasty stronghold, Ferdinand climbed to the castle and drove his sword to the ground. Probably not a good idea, but I’m sure he had more swords. Roughly 250 meters from the castle, that spot is now marked with a cross, overlooking Jaén and the rest of the countryside.

In the few hours of visiting Jaén we saw both a thriving town (before lunch), and a sleepy one (after lunch). The best example of that was right in front of the cathedral. We are well outside the tourist route. Another surprise was a series of murals in the southwest edge of the town. A lot of cats (including real ones) and stairs.

But the largest bonus was discovering a thriving food scene. Jaén, with just about 100,000 population boasts four Michelin star establishments, including the famed Baga. A mini San Sebastian if you will. Being in the middle of perhaps the most important olive oil region in the country may have something to do with it.

I dont recall exactly why I chose MangasVerdes over Baga. Perhaps I wanted something simpler, or Baga’s latest reviews didnt do it for me. I question my decisions more than anyone else. And when we showed up at an empty restaurant at 1:30pm, our reservation time, I questioned some more. I was confused why they were turning people away. But by 2:30 the place was packed to the brim with locals.

A young staff without much English did a masterful job managing the house. I may never understand how they do it with half the staff of American restaurants of the same size. The food was traditional with a fun Asian twist that actually works. More often than not, it doesnt. A top 5 of the trip meal, maybe even top 3. Considering the doozies we had, its saying something.

Expertly prepared Duck confit spring rolls that came Ssam style. Silky smooth, flavor packed Foie Gras. Phenomenal, explosive Chicken Croquetitas that came like a dozen eggs with curry sauce. Probably my favorite dish. Octopus on a bed of potato cream, as good as it was prob my least favorite. More excellence from the Oxtail ravioli. Panna Cotta and choc cake were the exclamation point.

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Four Gems in Seville

Posted on August 6, 2024 by Ziggy

I was about to write about one highlight in particular but I feel generous today. I wont go into details other than on some of the regional specialties that I’ll mention but Andalucia has a rich, vibrant, and very different food scene than the rest of Spain. And seeing even the more refined places keep traditions alive is much appreciated, especially for a tourist. We had all sorts of food experiences in Seville, but these are the four that dazzled our taste buds in ways I can not describe (for the Top Secret fans).

Bar Casa Morales

One of those time warp experiences. Opened in 1850 and still owned by the same family. You feel the history as soon as you walk in. Another entrance to the back room around the corner (that we discovered by accident). Try to arrive when they open if you dont want to wait, and dont be intimidated if you dont speak the language. Try the quality cold cuts, Tortilla, Galician Octopus, but something tells me they can do no wrong. C. García de Vinuesa, 11

Bodeguita Romero

Come for the famous Pringa and stay for the rest of the menu. This is another local legend. Best to arrive when they open or risk long lines. But whatever you do, dont give up on it. While the Pringa (Pork Sandwich) was indeed outstanding, we liked everything else just as much. The Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) is addictive. Try the expertly cooked whole grilled squid. And the immensely flavorful and tender Carillera (pork cheek). C. Harinas, 10

Blanca Paloma

I’ve already written about this jewel in the colorful Triana neighborhood. Its hard but not impossible to reserve but best to show up on the early side (sense a theme here?). For us Americans eating before the locals start flocking in (2pm for lunch, 9pm for dinner) didnt require a great effort. Try anything and everything shrimp including eggplant stuffed with shrimp, mini garlic shrimp burgers, and shrimp a la Plancha. C. San Jacinto, 49

Amara

Saving the best for last. Our top meal in Seville also happened to be the most expensive. Though a €48 tasting menu was still tremendous value for us New Yorkers. Chef/owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. Tiny Amara is a beautiful homage to the Basque heritage with much emphasis to local traditions.

Great bread is often an indication of things to come and that’s no different here. You may start the journey with a complex Ajoblanco (cold soup) made with coconut, cashews, garlic, pineapple, and other goodies. Then maybe a lovely Croqueta with squid and squid ink, followed by Artichoke in Jerez butter and Iberian Chicharron. Then maybe a 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, truffles, a Basque classic. If there’s a large rice dish with pork (top) as a special, you may want to pounce on it too. C. Zaragoza, 18

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Cabaret L’enfer {Montreal} – Enjoy the Science

Posted on July 24, 2024 by Ziggy

Raise you hand if you think I take notes while dining out. I dont, with very rare exceptions. I dont even spend much time taking all the necessary pictures. I stopped years ago after annoying too many family and friends. It’s worth noting that a big reason for this blog is to simply keep track of where and what I eat, as opposed to whether I had a Ratatouille moment when I took my first bite of that Pate en Croute.

With that said, I did take notes at the exceptional Cabaret L’enfer. Only to delete the note by mistake yesterday. Turns out Yahoo linked Notes cant be recovered?!? So you have to deal with my memories yet again, even though it feels like this very recent meal was ages ago. After all, if its not memorable, maybe its not worth writing about.

Not only it was memorable, but this was a sound contender for meal of the year, challenging places like Foxface Natural, Ronda’s Casa Mateos, and Anguilla’s Hibernia just off top of my head. Very rarely, everything clicks as it did at Cabaret L’enfer. Even the 80’s/New Wave playlist felt like specifically engineered for us. I remember thinking toward the end that the only thing missing from this experience was Depeche Mode, and 10 minutes later, Bam, we Enjoy the Silence. The GOAT!

Music seems very important to Montreal born chef/owner Massimo Piedimonte who curates his own playlists in addition to curating a masterpiece set menu. We had a direct view of his dance moves by the charcoal grill where he’s in charge. Guidance under names you may have heard like Daniel Boulud and René Redzepi at NOMA taught him not only how to flat out cook, but how to make a place unique and your own. Very rarely you feel like you are at someone’s extended living room at a place of this caliber.

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The set menu is a beautiful multicultural marriage, especially of the chef’s Italian and French heritage. And at $120 its decent value, especially for New Yorkers. They do try to push their wine, especially natural. Wine pairing starts at $100, but there are some interesting selections by the glass.

Homemade flatbread with Stracciatella and fresh snappy peas was just the kind of start you wished. And if the perfectly grilled Tuna Belly Tostada didnt get the juices going, three lobster filled Cappellacci surely did. Then comes a superb grilled lobster (+$20) that was much appreciated but not necessary. Its an 8 course feast full of highlights without the lobster.

The first of the second half highlights was a sliced scallop with Fava beans, and a Vermouth based sauce. This is one of those moments where you hesitate to drink your wine in order to let the taste buds keep dancing. After a dish like this, asparagus with wild Nettles almost feels like a cleanser. Probably the least favorite dish, but one that makes sense in a menu as such.

The last savory item was thee highlight. An outstanding well marbled Entrecote with bits of artichoke and Bordelaise sauce. As my neighbor proclaimed “I’m full but I can eat a few more of those”. I dont recall the last time I ate a finer piece of beef. When you are on such a culinary high, dessert can easily get lost in the shuffle. No exception here. More of a testament to the rest of the triumph. Go!

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Quebec City – The Good, the Great, and the Ugly

Posted on July 10, 2024 by Ziggy
Duck Ham at Buvette Scott

After spending weeks trying to understand Quebec City’s cuisine, you’d think after spending some time in the city, the answer would be clear. Strawberries, cheese, Poutine, Montreal Smoked Meat? When you start mentioning items from other cities, maybe the list isnt that long to begin with, or cloudy at best. It seems that most items listed are of the traditional variety, and are offered in very few places. La Buche, one of those “Sugar Shacks” is one of those, but it was consistently mobbed during our stay.

Quebec City is not known for anything specific that makes people travel over 500 miles as we just did. But we did find a seemingly up and coming food scene led by a plethora of ingredient driven, farm to tables that work with whatever is in season. So you may find asparagus, morels, strawberries, etc following you from menu to menu. And things get increasingly more interesting once you leave the old town…

The Good

Buvette Scott – An intimate, mostly delicious delight with the kind of service that feels like hanging out with old friends. A special of lightly fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with mascarpone and smoked trout. The signature duck ham is like eating duck butter. Mezzelune pasta stuffed with ricotta and topped with lobster, scrumptious and pleasing to the eye. Morels stuffed with chicken wing meat with aromatic veal and wine broth, and last asparagus of the season was the best of show.

Chez Boulay-bistro boréal – A classic in the old town. A comfortable room with a working A/C turned out to be a surprise luxury in QC. Lunch specials come with soup (excellent leek and potato on this day) or salad (nice seed action). Cavatelli with broccoli and local cheese was light and perfectly executed. Lean, flaky beef cheeks with a complimentary ratatouille is a signature here and I can see why. After the meal, exit through the other end via the hotel (that’s also where the bathrooms are) and check out the Bouley sweets store. Talk about eye popping stuff.

Le Clocher Penché – Choosing between an uncomfortably warm room and a room with no ambiance was not a good start. The appetizers made up for it more than the mains. Scallops with morels, easily top dish. The sauce is the reason to order the terrific bread. Shell pasta with oyster mushrooms and Pork chop were serviceable.

Chez Mag on Île d’Orléans – If there’s one tip I can give you besides booking the one “great” is circle the entire Île d’Orléans for strawberries, picturesque homes and lobster rolls. These rolls wont win any awards, but eating them with a side of smoked meat poutine in that picnic area is hard to beat. Standing on line and listening to the conversations around you is part of the experience.

Chez Temporel – Quebece City takes their brunches very seriously. The Croque Monsieur may look like something I would make, but did not lack flavor. “Brunch Plate” featuring the Frittata of the day and other goodies did not disappoint.

Boulangerie artisanale Epi’Fanny – Close to a religious experience for croissant lovers. Jambon sandwiches, not quite Le Petite Vendome level, but will make you at least reminisce.

Épicerie J.A. Moisan – The one store you should check out. All sorts of international items displayed in a smart way. We sampled some cheese and ended up with a creamy La Bete a Seguin to enjoy with a baguette.

The Great

Melba – Our top meal in Quebec City and it wasnt even close. Opened last year in the up and coming Saint-Sauveur neighborhood by a mega talented team of cooks. Thankfully the ties to the popular Battuto don’t include reservation difficulties. One of the joys of reserving in Montreal and QC for a New Yorker is that I dont have to spend hours finding a table.

Hors d’oeuvre as the name suggests are snacks here, so I recommend at least three for two. You can even let the waiter pick as we did. Just make sure to get the “Bikini Sandwiches”. Best Grilled cheese sandwich you will ever have, with zucchini and olives and more zucchini slices on top. You may also enjoy the Barbajuans, like skinny fritters stuffed with lamb and spices with homemade babaganoush as a dip, or Deviled eggs with lobster.

Mains arent too shabby either. A delicate lobster poached Halibut with the softest carrots and lobster bisque. As good as that was, it was bested by Guineafowl with potatoes, chard and a killer combination of sauces. The good selection of wine by the glass and the addictive buttery buns sealed it. Flawless to say the least. All considering good value as well.

The Ugly

Au Petit Coin Breton – Uninspiring pricy crepes with egg, ham and cheese. Nothing like a classic Breton Galette. The crepes at Baguette & Chocolat looked more like it. Much of the old town spots are for tourists.

The Prices – I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a city as expensive as NYC outside of the US. Even Montreal seems cheap in comparison. The high tourist to local ration in QC has something to do with it.

The Tipping – Quebec City’s food scene is having a moment, and so is its tipping culture looks like. I’ve been to Canada many times, but I dont recall ever feeling the need to tip like in NYC. With every machine starting at either 15% or 18% and finishing at 25% even for ice cream, tipping less than 20% felt odd.

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