Posts Tagged With: Montreal

Cabaret L’enfer {Montreal} – Enjoy the Science

Raise you hand if you think I take notes while dining out. I dont, with very rare exceptions. I dont even spend much time taking all the necessary pictures. I stopped years ago after annoying too many family and friends. It’s worth noting that a big reason for this blog is to simply keep track of where and what I eat, as opposed to whether I had a Ratatouille moment when I took my first bite of that Pate en Croute.

With that said, I did take notes at the exceptional Cabaret L’enfer. Only to delete the note by mistake yesterday. Turns out Yahoo linked Notes cant be recovered?!? So you have to deal with my memories yet again, even though it feels like this very recent meal was ages ago. After all, if its not memorable, maybe its not worth writing about.

Not only it was memorable, but this was a sound contender for meal of the year, challenging places like Foxface Natural, Ronda’s Casa Mateos, and Anguilla’s Hibernia just off top of my head. Very rarely, everything clicks as it did at Cabaret L’enfer. Even the 80’s/New Wave playlist felt like specifically engineered for us. I remember thinking toward the end that the only thing missing from this experience was Depeche Mode, and 10 minutes later, Bam, we Enjoy the Silence. The GOAT!

Music seems very important to Montreal born chef/owner Massimo Piedimonte who curates his own playlists in addition to curating a masterpiece set menu. We had a direct view of his dance moves by the charcoal grill where he’s in charge. Guidance under names you may have heard like Daniel Boulud and René Redzepi at NOMA taught him not only how to flat out cook, but how to make a place unique and your own. Very rarely you feel like you are at someone’s extended living room at a place of this caliber.

canadas100best

The set menu is a beautiful multicultural marriage, especially of the chef’s Italian and French heritage. And at $120 its decent value, especially for New Yorkers. They do try to push their wine, especially natural. Wine pairing starts at $100, but there are some interesting selections by the glass.

Homemade flatbread with Stracciatella and fresh snappy peas was just the kind of start you wished. And if the perfectly grilled Tuna Belly Tostada didnt get the juices going, three lobster filled Cappellacci surely did. Then comes a superb grilled lobster (+$20) that was much appreciated but not necessary. Its an 8 course feast full of highlights without the lobster.

The first of the second half highlights was a sliced scallop with Fava beans, and a Vermouth based sauce. This is one of those moments where you hesitate to drink your wine in order to let the taste buds keep dancing. After a dish like this, asparagus with wild Nettles almost feels like a cleanser. Probably the least favorite dish, but one that makes sense in a menu as such.

The last savory item was thee highlight. An outstanding well marbled Entrecote with bits of artichoke and Bordelaise sauce. As my neighbor proclaimed “I’m full but I can eat a few more of those”. I dont recall the last time I ate a finer piece of beef. When you are on such a culinary high, dessert can easily get lost in the shuffle. No exception here. More of a testament to the rest of the triumph. Go!

Categories: Montreal | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

A Perfect Day of Eating in Montreal

A long weekend in Montreal, after an 8 year hiatus produced a tail of two eating days, and one painful reminder. Never trust hotel employees for food recommendations. Locals, especially in large cosmopolitan cities, may not be familiar with their own food scene. But they are trained to answer this question based on various factors such as “other tourists like it”, and will often sound very convincing. After a mediocre first day where I was winging it with an assist from an overzealous employee, the planned second day produced much better results. While this day is not exactly how my day went, its mostly based on it.

Start the day with a Montreal bagel from one of the institutions in Mile End, St-Viateur or Fairmont. Just try to forget everything you know about NYC bagels and keep an open mind. Its really nothing like it, and comparing them is like comparing apples to toasters. They may seem bland and sweet, but you might appreciate the light and airy texture. Try the sesame with cream cheese. Do you know what they call cream cheese in Spain? Philadelphia! Just the kind of unrelated tidbit you’ll only see on EWZ, but very useful in cocktail parties.

The one time I tried both of the institutions, I got luckier with St-Viateur over Fairmont as the former was right out of the oven. But you cant go wrong here. The one big positive about this bagel is that you dont need to spread a pound of cream cheese to be able to taste the cream cheese. Conveniently right next to Fairmont, you can get good coffee at Caffé Grazie-Mille where regulars enjoy telling the owner about the daily pictures they get from ex girlfriends.

The cool thing about these bagels is that you dont need a nap now and you can resume eating within hours. And what’s a better place to do it than Jean Talon Market. This is just a spectacular market, especially in August when its corn season. Peaches and Cream corn will be the sweetest corn you will ever have. But you will encounter all sorts of worldly artisanal items throughout the market. And if you never had ground cherries before, this is a good time to try if in season.

It’s lunch time and I will cheat for once and give you options. Its my blog and I’ll cheat when and how I want to. Option one: The Katz’s of the north, Schwartz. Like bagels, even if you are very familiar with NYC style Pastrami you should try this. First, its an institution. Second, the smoked meat is pretty darn good, especially if you get it on the fatty side. Third, you can sample Poutine here too.

Lunch option two: Portuguese Chicken. Its not as popular as smoked meat among tourists and guide books, but its arguably a better option IMO. If you live in NYC, you can find really good Pastrami and even Montreal smoked meat (Mile End in Brooklyn), but its very hard to find fast casual Portuguese chicken grills like Ma Poule Mouillée for example. The chicken is perfect in every way. Crispy and juicy in all the right places, and brushed with that salty, spicy Peri Peri that even makes the fries taste amazing. You also got Pastel de Nata, and of course Poutine.

Its finally nap time. Do you nap on vacation, or even at home? If yes, I’m jealous. Last time I took a nap was one of the best moments of life. It ranks somewhere between the birth of my second, and the day Mrs Z lost her voice. But first, if you are staying at the old town, or just visiting, pop into Cafeterra for excellent berry topped pastries and solid coffee. Opened fairly recently by a Ukrainian couple.

That leaves 4-5 hours till the highly anticipated dinner at Bouillon Bilk. The food scene here is quite vast and that’s what draws me to this city. Much of the rest is not wildly different than NYC. There are options galore here, but 13 year old Bouillon Bilk is a classic in the making. While prices have increased substantially since my first visit 8 years ago, its still affordable compared to NYC once you factor CAD to USD conversation. The smart, ingredient driven 5 courser is $100 CAD currently. And the a la carte menu isnt terribly expensive. Not a bad day, eh?

Categories: Montreal | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Jean-Talon Market (Montreal)

img_1623Quite possibly the most vibrant, colorful, high quality produce market I’ve ever seen.  In too much awe to take enough quality pictures.  And by awe I mean the outrageously sweet and delicious “peaches and cream” corn.  They have an entire section dedicated for corn where they sell it to you boiled and buttered.  Something else you dont normally see in markets, fruits available to taste.  You can spend a solid two to three hours here having a picnic right inside it.  Just you and your corn.  And ground cherries!  Look em up, than find them in your city.  Your homework assignment.

img_1613 img_1617 img_1628 img_1597 img_1599 img_1570 img_1573 img_1575 img_1587 img_1588 img_1596 img_1602

 

Categories: Montreal | Tags: , , , , , | 4 Comments

4 Days in Montreal

FullSizeRenderThis is essentially a copy and paste from the report I did on Chowhound, with visuals.  Three couple celebrating my friend’s 50th.  Everything we ate in order of appearance

Olive et Gourmando – Enjoyed the grilled cheese sandwich and the vibe.  Vowed to return for breakfast but they only open at 9 which I find a little strange.

Le Serpent – Started with a bang.  Menu right up my alley, with exceptional execution.  Industrial space and feel in the old city, though way out of the tourist trail.  Started with a fine sliced Octopus covered by a thin layer of potato mousseline.  A very nice Foie gras looking like two pigs in a blanket without the blanket, with blackcurrant, quinoa, and macadamia nuts.  The pastas here are absolutely sensational and so difficult to pick.  The best for me was probably the Bucatini with pork flank confit, black garlic, soy – a pungent, punch to the face on every bite.  Close second was the the Linguine, speck, almonds, cauliflower, truffle brunoise.  Garganelli, pistachio, nordic shrimp, asparagus, mint was good, while the lobster risotto had a nice minty flavor but forgettable.  The risotto is the most popular dish here for some reason, but with all those pastas around I would skip it.  From the mains, the branzino was great, but the Pork jowl with that melt in your mouth porky awesomeness stole the show.  Maple pudding easily won the dessert round.  Tremendous mealIMG_1450 IMG_1447

Schwartz – Enjoyed this Katz’s of the north.  Dont know if I prefer over Katz’s or something more obscure like Harry & Ida’s in NYC, but I enjoyed the whole experience.  Our options were fatty, medium or lean.  Not sure if I could have asked for “medium-fat” instead of just “medium”, but mine could have used more fat.  My wife’s “medium” was a little more peppery than mine which could have used a little more seasoning, but it was fine.  I like the the thickness and the way its sliced.  A notch above Mile End, our Montreal style smoked meat in NYC.  At Schwartz we also had our only classic poutine of the trip.  It was good, but no idea how it compares.IMG_1496

Ma Poule Mouillée – Out of everything Montreal has to offer, bagels, poutine, smoked meat, etc, to me the Portuguese stuff was the most interesting.  Birds spinning everywhere you turn.  This place certainly didnt disappoint, and judging by the line by the time we were leaving, it felt like we came to the right place.  Shared the #2 for two, a huge plate of half chicken and fries.  Since piri piri can be quite spicy in Lisbon and I was sharing it, I asked for “medium”.  Could have used a little more heat but the flavor was definitely there.  The chicken was juicy, and the fries once mixed with the chicken sauces and spices turned out better than the Poutine at lunch time.  They also have above average Pastel de Nata (egg custards)IMG_1554 IMG_1553

Jean Talon Market – Perhaps the finest collection of produce I’ve ever seen anywhere, and an absolutely spectacular market.  Beets with colors I never knew exist.  Great tasting berries, and ground cherries.  Spicy peanut butter from something called Mamba or something.  Marmite su’l feu served us a place of traditional delicasies from the island of Réunion, like a mix between creole and Indian.  The falafel-like beet based fried ball was my favorite there.  Across from them, we got a very nice plate of jerk potato plate but forgot the name.  All sorts of nice artisanal action on that particular isle.  But the ground cherries and the corn were the highlights for me.  Peaches and Cream corn was perhaps the sweetest corn I ever tasted.  Picked up some baguettes at Joe la Croûte (good), and later excellent coffee at Café Larue & fils.  Though passing by Le Pain dans les Voiles, I regretted not going there for pastry and coffee.  I suspected they were just a bakery like Joe la Croûte but looked more than thatIMG_1623

Bier Markt – Spotted this fancy bar for a break on our way to the hotel.  The place looked very inviting and “happening”.  They walked us to the second floor which looked like fun as well.  Pretty people, large screens everywhere, nice looking sprawling bar.  The anticipation started to grow… which table are we getting, this place looks awesome, this is gonna be great.  Then they lead us to another floor up, to an empty hall that now resembles an empty Chinese palace with round tables.  We were too tired to complain, and convinced ourselves that we can use the quiet.  A huge beer selection that looked more impressive than it actually is.  I got a nice local IPA, pretzel, wings (not bad at all), and more poutine.

L’Express – So this was our only disappointing experience.  All signs pointed to this being one of Montreal’s most popular traditional bistros if not the most popular.  Although I visted Paris a few times, and these types of bistros before, I wasnt entirely sure what to expect in Montreal.  Looked and felt very old school.  Menu translated in three languages.  The waiter suggested a Bordeaux which we liked.  Chicken liver pate was fine but came without anything else, just pate to be used with the table bread they served.  Octopus covering lentils like a hockey puck didnt have any distinct flavor.  The waiter enthusiastically talked about the tartare.  He asked whether I want it spicy and I said yes.  I liked it, but got tired of it in a hurry, and hardly detected any heat or much flavor.  Unlike many tartares I’ve had it also didnt look very appealing.  My wife’s steak with fries looked and tasted fairly pedestrian.  Desserts here were more interesting.  Got the last ‘floating island’ French classic which we enjoyed (thanks for the tip), and the coffee creme brulee special was pretty unique and excellent.  The saving grace here was that out of the six of us, my wife and I were the only people disappointed with our meal.IMG_1640 IMG_1649

Bagels – I wind up trying both of the institutions.  Hard to fall in love with these coming from our NYC bagel culture as these felt a little bland, and sweet, but I appreciated the light and airy texture.  My sesame bagel with cream cheese at Fairmont was fine.  At St-Viateur I ordered just a plain one and got it fresh out of the oven.IMG_1659

Salmigondis – Enjoyed this brunch in Little Italy.  Nothing too unusual or unique about this place (that I can see) but no complaints about anything.  “Fried Rabbit” is their take on Chicken with waffles.  Nicely cooked rabbit loin with rye waffles, Lapsang tea marinated soft boiled egg, and watercress.  The watercress is a good example of how greens can elevate a dish, while the egg added nothing.  I rather have a freshly boiled egg.  French Toast with peach, oat granola, and lemon curd was nice and rich, like any higher end French Toast.  Everyone else enjoyed their meal.  IMG_3771

Bouillon Bilk – For my friend’s 50th I felt like I scored a home run with this one. More like a Delino Deshields inside the park grand slam on a bum knee (ok, that was the first expo that came to mind).  A sensational meal to say the least.  Very plain but smart decor, unassuming looking on a somewhat weird location.  You can easily walk by without noticing it, tho you will notice all the gentleman clubs nearby.  Their tasting menu card means all the items that arent on the menu are also todays specials along with other specials they may have (a Guinea hen on this night).  That meant something like the first course, an Amuse Bouche special ($6) of bay scallops with corn and potato was available.  Great little amuse to set the tone.  The starters, Hamachi, yuzu kosho, grapefruit, fennel, cucumber, and the Cavatelli with truffle, almonds, quail egg, parsley were flawless.  Australian shaved truffles needed a lit more truffle lift from truffle cream but the end result was great.  The halibut, gnocchi, nordic shrimps, artichoke, seaweed butter dish my wife ordered was excellent, but mine was better.  Scallops, cauliflower, shiitake, pear, watercress, beurre noisette (brown butter).  The scallops are perfectly cooked and seasoned and are fine as is, but once dipped in that light greenish brown butter, heavenly.  And those shiitake, confited with awesomeness, pure joy with every morsel.  The Perfect dish.  The ricotta cream won the dessert round.  One of those meals.IMG_1727 IMG_1734 IMG_1735 IMG_1736 IMG_1682

 

Categories: Montreal | Tags: , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Montreal Random

IMG_1637IMG_1382 FullSizeRender IMG_1720 IMG_1706 IMG_1695 IMG_1731 IMG_1688 IMG_1666 IMG_1659 IMG_1628 IMG_1640 IMG_1623 IMG_1566 IMG_1561 IMG_1558 IMG_1554 IMG_1530 IMG_1527 IMG_1525 IMG_1509 IMG_1489 IMG_1471 IMG_1467 IMG_1419 IMG_1399 IMG_1506 IMG_1391 IMG_1738

Categories: Montreal | Tags: , , , | 4 Comments

Blog at WordPress.com.