Posts Tagged With: food

Cafe Spaghetti – Brooklyn’s Worst Kept Secret

Posted on July 12, 2023 by Ziggy

Sal Lamboglia’s Cafe Spaghetti has been on my radar since it opened pretty much. It only took me about a year to finally check it out, but thats pretty much my average in NYC for new places. Some places take much less, some I never make, and some sadly close by the time I’m finally ready. Its amazing how many dont see their one year anni. But over time I found a year is a good amount for an establishment to find its stride. Though this approach has its disadvantages as well.

This place has it all. A large backyard, a good size front porch and sidewalk space, a hefty buzz, a NYT seal of approval, and a menu that NYC essentially grew up with. Even the name, as playful and childish as it is, is catchy like a lady gaga tune (an earlier one). Catchy among adults and kids alike. What kid will say no to a Cafe Spaghetti, or Spaghetti. Yes, mindful of Celiac, although gluten free pasta is available.

Eater

Hence a backyard full of happy North Brooklyn families on an early Saturday night. In that part of Brooklyn, its family time, not so much senior time. Other than one fussy baby that I suspect thought his Fussili was overcooked, all extremely well behaved. Unlike the evening of one particular reviewer that deducted stars because kids were allowed to roam around. What exactly do you expect the staff to do.

The food for the most part was adequate, but the whole experience was more so. Good to see local beer selection, including Staten Island’s own Flagship. Mrs Z loved her Mezcalita and now demands I make it at home. Good food pacing, almost a rarity in NYC these days. And in true NYC 21st century, more than three menu sections, including a “Cicchetti” section that is not too distinguishable than the antipasti below.

Rice Balls (Arancini), topped with “Cacio e Pepe” was just solid enough to not require the typically accompanied red sauce. The oversalted Brussel Sprouts with Pepperoni wasnt as successful. It could have just relied on the salt from the meat. The pastas were more than serviceable. A solid Vongole, and Penne with a creamy garlic sauce and lump Maine crab, good even if could have used more of the advertised heat.

The one glaring miss was a semi dry and uneventful Chicken Francese. Growing up with this staple we were curious about Sal’s interpretation, but it wasnt much of an upgrade over any Staten Island/south Brooklyn pizzeria for roughly half of the cost. The undisputed star, piece de resistance was a piece of dad’s Tiramisu. Just moist enough, just creamy enough, just perfect enough.

A fun, albeit uneven meal. I can see why Pete Wells calls it the Anti-Carbone, but overall it falls short of the promised ode to the classic neighborhood Italian. The Manhattan style, extra large, overly proper staff wont remind you of any Outer Borough red sauce Italian. Half of the staff comically tried to take our unfinished pastas away as they were trained to do. Just seems like “too many cooks” outside the kitchen. Its unclear if the true aim is for a neighborhood Italian, or destination Italian. But a solid new option for the Park Slopers and Carroll Gardeners nonetheless.

Cafe Spaghetti
126 Union St (Columbia Street Waterfront District)
Recommended Dishes: Rice Balls, Vongole, Penne with Crab, Tiramisu

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Rui dos Leitões – A One-Hit Wonder Near Coimbra

Posted on July 5, 2023 by Ziggy

This is going to be quick. I think. I often say that and end up writing life stories that have nothing to do with the post. But this time I will make it my mission. Besides, there’s not much to show and tell in this case. We took plenty of other pictures, but as I will explain, I rather not show them. A first on EWZ. Restaurant photos that are not safe for work.

When you enter this legend, about 10km north of Coimbra, you will notice that every table has pretty much the same items. A huge plate of Suckling Pig with sliced oranges, a bubbly, French fries, and some veggies. French fries is something you’ll find all over Portugal, outside of haute joints. A churrascaria without potatoes is an experiment gone horribly wrong.

This is suckling pig country, and Rui dos Leitões might be its emperor. The only decision is how much pig. One kg was perfect for two hungry couples (including one hangry guide) on a late lunch on the way to Tomar. They do have what seems to be a full menu, but after around 3pm and before dinner time, I’m told you can only get the pig and the usual sides. While most whites, and certain reds will do, a popular pairing here is Spumante.

Lets just say Segovia is now home to our second favorite Suckling Pig. Segovia was the complete experience, with plenty of theatre. But Rui dos Leitões dished out a sensational tasting pieces of meat, without the dramatics. Since they let the pigs mature to 5 weeks, you get much more of the juicy flesh than Segovia where it’s mostly crispy skin of the much younger pigs. Younger pig means milkier flesh, and not enough of it. The oranges serve as a palate cleanser.

We finished with a tour of the ovens where we took the pictures I struggle with. If there are any images that may make me stop eat meat, these may be it. Ask for a tour after the meal. This is just the type of place that complements any Portugal food itinerary nicely. After you finish sucking the bones at Zé Manel dos Ossos in Coimbra (I believe owner recently passed), Uber your way to Rui dos Leitões for an experience you’ll be talking about for a long time.

Categories: Portugal | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Angelo’s Pizzeria – The #1 Reason to Visit Philly

Posted on July 2, 2023 by Ziggy

There are many reasons to visit the City of Brotherly Love. Like, well.. hmm, I cant think of any right now. Give me a minute.. Oh ok, so there’s this bell that tourists are queuing up to see, but I hear its broken. There are also these famous steps where tourists run up and down. Such fun! And how can I forget the prison, Easter State something. See, plenty of things to do and see, but perhaps most importantly, to eat.

Philly gave birth to two of my favorite mini empires.. Han Dynasty, and Michael Solomonov’s. Hummus is not exactly the first or 10th thing that comes to mind when you think Philly. But between Zahav, Dizengoff, and Laser Wolf you will be hard pressed finding better Israeli food or hummus anywhere else. I’ve yet to set foot inside a Vetri place because good Italian is just too easy to find in NYC, but thats another big part of the local food puzzle.

But to me, first and foremost, its the Philly Cheesesteak. I met enough people who raised eyebrows at the notion of going to Philly for a greasy sandwich, but thats most likely because they simply havent had a good one. I can probably find a decent Philly Cheesesteak in NYC (Shorty’s is one). But everything I tried paled in comparison to my long time fave… John’s Roast Pork.

While tourists flock to the more accessibly popular 70’s boy names, Geno’s, Pats, Jim’s, we settled on the more local, remote John’s. But love can also be blind. At some point I woke up in cold sweat realizing that I liked John’s more than my family and friends. While my taste was more in tune with the local John’s fanatics, the cheese, or lack of wiz, and the overall flavor just wasnt appreciated nearly as much by my closest, namely Mrs Z.

Enter another boy’s name, Angelo. As in angels singing when you take your first bite of this beast. As a New Yorker, I dont know if I’ll ever try their pizza, also much hyped about, especially after a Barstool review a few years back. While many go for the great looking pies, the vast majority of the 30 or so last Saturday were waiting for the crown jewel sandwich.

The scene at Angelo’s is part of the experience. A doorman helps with the traffic, and directs you straight to a cashier. Inside the kitchen area is what looks like a dozen strong, factory like operation. The only problem is, and its not a small one, there’s nowhere to eat it. At least at John’s you have the outdoor space. We took a walk along the block, and after 30 minutes our sandwiches were ready.

We ate ours in the car across the street. Tight parking in that part of Philly. The first thing we noticed is the bread. A seeded roll, somewhat remarkably also baked in-house. I got mine with the suggested Cooper Sharp cheese and fried onions, while adding mushrooms to the mix. She got it naked with sweet peppers on the side. She liked hers a lot.

I cant help but use the “best I ever had” cliché every chance I have. But in this case I have very little doubt about that. The ribeye/cheese balance and quality, the bread, and the rest of the ingredients produced a very satisfying, rich bite. The bread especially made the bulk of the difference. I wasnt planning to write about this, hence took a few poor shots of this, but you can see it better in this most excellent post. Generally these sandwiches are not very photogenic, but once you have it, you start drooling over them pics.

As someone wrote on my Insta page, “Angelo’s will do that”. My loyalty to the fantastic John’s is in serious jeopardy. I cant speak for consistency, but this was just about perfect. A destination sandwich that will give the rocky steps you’ll need to do after, a little bit more meaning.

Categories: Philadelphia | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Pinch Chinese – Cousin Ping Say Get The Chicken

Posted on June 16, 2023 by Ziggy

A quick reminder that Pinch Chinese is still dishing out superb stuff in Soho. A great place to come solo, as a couple, family meeting your kid’s new boyfriend, or any group for that matter to try some of the larger dishes like the crab, and the sensational Wind Sand Chicken which I’ve written about before. Its the sum of all parts kinda dish. Not only you got the quality well marinated meet, juicy flesh, but you’ll be hard pressed finding crispier, more delicious skin.

They can just remove the skin, and serve it as a side dish as weird as it sounds. In Coimbra, Portugal a bones dish consisting of, you guesses it, bones, gained much fame over time. So I dont see a reason why this Cholesterol Special would’nt work. Ok, maybe if they dont call it the Cholesterol Special, but then again, it may be marketing brilliance.

But the one dish we’ve been getting from day one here is the cumin ribs. And the description “Fall of the bones – Jocelyn from Yelp” never gets old. Its quite remarkable that cumin perfume is not a thing. You smell it from the next table as soon as you sit down and you cant meaningfully participate in any conversation until you get it.

The soup dumplings here are a cure for summertime sadness. You may even pinch yourself after the first bite. Wait, is that the reason for the name, or is it due to the pinching or gripping process when you lift those babies. They are tiny but explosive umami bombs. Another must and new discovery for us is the braised pork with white rice and a mustardy greens concoction. Like elevated lunch box comfort food I would order again and again.

There were however some small misses last time. Not big but surprising considering the excellence and attention to detail over the years. The eggplant in garlic was overly sweet and not very garlicky this time. The Dan Dan Noodles tasted a little off (perhaps the star anise overwhelmed). Nevertheless, another enjoyable meal at this Z-List original

Original Post

Pinch Chinese
177 Prince St (Soho)
Recommended Dishes: Seafood/Pork Dumplings, Cumin Ribs, Wind Sand Chicken, Spicy Wontons, String Beans, Snow Crab in Chinese Restaurant, Steak Fried Rice, Taiwanese Beef Noodle, Braised Pork

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Somtum Der – Now Derring in Red Hook

Posted on May 25, 2023 by Ziggy

In the land of the new and exciting, its often easy to overlook the established and proven. The “What’s new” questions on social media by people that visited the city once or twice before have always been a mystery to me. Did you try any of the other 99.9%, like Pig and Khao, Minetta Tavern, Popina, etc etc. Are they stale? What exactly is wrong with them? There’s always something new and exciting, but the real question is who will make it past year one, or year ten. 60% fail in their first year, 80% fail within five, and very few make it to 10.

The Z-List Thai staple Somtum Der not only keep soldiering on in the East Village but is now doing it in Red Hook, Brooklyn. While East Village is ultra competitive as I keep saying for years due to the lack of tourists and abundance of students, opening in no-train Red Hook is just another level of Chutzpah. Generally Thai restaurants in Red Hook and neighboring Columbia Street Waterfront District (because real estate firms havent come up with a cute 2 syllable name) dont last very long. See Pok Pok, Krok .

Somtum Der was one of the first to introduce New Yorkers to fiery Isan food when it opened in East Village a decade ago. That was only a year after opening in Bangkok. Both places are in the Michelin guide if you care about such things. In fact the East Village location even got a Michelin star that lasted a whole 5 minutes. The new Red Hook location has exactly the same menu, with pictures. If you dont like menus with colorful pictures, you are probably not enjoying life to the fullest. If we were to give awards to menus with the most vibrant pictures, Somtum Der would be an easy three Kodak recipient.

While Somtum is known for the various namesake papaya salads, I der you to find a more flavorful bird in NYC. Just seeing the picture on the menu for me is like a kid hearing the ice cream truck. Along with the marinaded pork with the soothing sticky rice lollypops, the fried chicken thighs is a usual must. The thing about Somtum Der is that they can take any old, stale, dry meat or fish, and make it taste amazing. Thats not to say that its the type of meat we usually encounter here, but that’s the type of seasoning and marinades they use. Its sort of what Isan food is all about. Preserving meat and fish in historically poor areas.

Its also worth noting the weekly specials, in particular the sickest mushroom salad I ever had, Goi Hed. (invented by someone who thought the Beech mushrooms reminded them of uncircumcised penises). Out of the regulars, last time in Brooklyn we also enjoyed the garlic beef with rice, and a serviceable Pad Thai. My first Pad Thai in maybe 20 years. Blame the pictures.

The cool thing about the Brooklyn location is that it has a lovely garden that feels like you are in a neighbor’s BBQ. Another plus is that its in the heart of Red Hook, walking distance to the legendary Steve’s Key Lime Pie, an important former stop on my Brooklyn tour (RIP). I go straight for the raspberry Swingle these days. Might as well also check out the Merchant Stores Building next door. If it doesnt work out with Mrs Z, my next wedding venue will be at the The Liberty Warehouse. But next month will be 30 years, so who really knows…

Somtum Der
85 Avenue A (East Village)
380 Van Brunt St (Red Hook)
Recommended Dishes: Fried Chicken, Marinadet grilled pork, Mushroom salad (special), Garlic beef

Categories: Brooklyn, East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

10 Best Things We Ate in CDMX

Posted on May 9, 2023 by Ziggy

How does one come up with 10 on a four day trip? Its complicated. The long explanation starts with my childhood, and requires lying down on an old couch to tell the story. It has to be an old couch, preferably beige. The short version is that’s how we roll, especially on a food focused trip as such. I can actually come up with 10 items in just one of the days. That’s Mexico City for you.

Green Chorizo Taco at Mercado de Jamaica

I think Eva Longoria made a mistake here. This is a life altering taco that didnt require any salsa to enhance the flavor. But on Eva’s Searching for Mexico show on CNN, while I was delighted to see her visit the same place we did, I was terrified by the amount of salsa she added on this delicate beauty. This jewel was part of a tour with Eat Like a Local.

Pescado a la Talla at Contramar

Imagine opening a restaurant that evolves around a dish that eventually becomes a national treasure. And before you know it, you are the food consultant to the president. Thats exactly what happened to Gabriela Cámara, and her famous two color snapper. I’ve had wonderful fish with one of those colors before that is a bore fest compared to this experience, where you essentially make the fish tacos of your dreams.

Suadero Taco at Tacos El Güero (San Rafael)

Rule number one of fight club: Aim for tacos outside the gentrified areas, or in this case, areas that refuse to gentrify. Not only you’ll find them at a fraction of the cost, but quite tastier as well. Suadero, sadly rarely seen in NYC, is essentially the beef (brisket) version of Carnitas. Here you’ll find them just fatty enough, crispy, and quite tender. And you’ll most likely be the only tourist, but dont get intimidated. And dont skip on the sick pastor as well.

Chile en Nogada at Angelopolitano

Yet another rarity in the USA, and once you see and taste it you’ll understand why. It looks like a dish typically made once a year on a special holiday, and for some it is in Mexico (Independence Day). But at Angelopolitano, you’ll find it year round, even when pomegranate is not in season. Its a hearty combination of meat, candied and dried fruit stuffed in poblano chile, and topped with walnut cream sauce, and pomegranate. Typically served room temperature.

Pibil Tacos at El Turix

At the glamorous Polanco, you can either dine with ladies who lunch across the street at Maque, or sit on the sidewalk with construction workers at El Turix. We did both, for research of course. And the construction workers got it right. An outstanding Cochinita Pibil wrapped in a deliciouso soft tortilla from this busy hole in the wall. And you may also see many munching on the fine Panuchos (fried tortillas stuffed with beans, topped with shredded chicken)

Lengua Tostada – Amatista Tostadas (Coyoacán)

This is another one of those if you know, you know type place in the foody paradise Coyoacán. Popular with tour guides, other locals, and tourists alike. They dish all sorts of delights like a fine Aztec soup, and fancier Tostadas like Octopus and tuna. But that Lengua Tostada, covered with an intense but pleasant dark 7 chili sauce was the eye opener. A fiesta in your mouth. Try to go when they open or prepare to wait a little, especially if a tour occupies the entire second room.

“Veracruzanos” at La Cocina de mi Mamá (Coyoacán Market)

While most tourists head to the insta-heavy Tostadas Coyoacán, the locals sneak to the back of the market for this literally hidden gem. We had to ask another vendor who was very happy to bring us there, but its probably more fun to find on your own. This dish is exhibit A why Mexicans take their breakfasts very seriously. Tortillas filled with eggs, bathed in bean sauce, chorizo, onions, cheese and peppers. Sensational to say the least.

Taco course at Quintonil

Its hard to pick a dish from a meal full of standouts. Every dish played a role, but perhaps none bigger than the extravagant Taco course. There were charred avocado with Escamoles (insect caviar), smoked cactus salad, Oyster mushrooms, pureed beans from Oaxaca, nutty Crottin cheese, chorizo with oats, and more. It could have been a fine meal in itself, but at Quintonil its just another course.

Lengua Taco at Tacos “El Betin”

I think the term ‘hole in the wall’ was invented here. This was our first stop on a taco crawl in San Rafael. Great pastor, but the Lengua was like a smack in the face. Just about the most delicate, tender Lengua I ever had. Just like other spots in San Rafael, you may find yourself surrounded by locals, or a food tour.

Grandma’s Flan at La Casa de Toño

Come for the hearty pozole, the specialty at this American-like mini chain, but stay for Grandmas Flan. Nothing really out of the ordinary here. Just a solid flan, Caramel freaks like me, crave and enjoy. La Casa de Toño is one of a few good options open Sunday night, popular among locals too. You’ll get a number and wait to be called or displayed on the screen.

Categories: Mexico City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Foxface Natural – A Star is (re)Born

Posted on May 2, 2023 by Ziggy

December 2023 Update

A triumphant return results in a triumph. I dont know why it took me so long to come back. Travel, holidays, personal stuff, always in the way. I even brought a doctor’s note, but it was never requested. While I havent been back since May, it was interesting to follow the many developments of Foxface Natural, mainly in the media. I expected great things, but not quite the kind of hype so soon. Needless to say, the built up expectations were met and then some.

The three of us started with some raw goodness. Two raw fish dishes that could not have been more different, showcasing that range. Pastrami spiced Hiramasa with horseradish, and preserved lemon was quite the delicate treat. As brilliant as it was, it was upstaged by the quality Maine Bluefin with cured olives, fermented tomato and smoked chive olive oil. Pure joy with every morsel.

I dont think you can find more tender meat than the super slow cooked Boer Goat. Served with similar texture eggplant and fermented Okra providing some crunch. This would have been a highlight in many places, but here it’s my least favorite main (albeit the girl’s favorite), though something I’d order again, and again.

Another hit was Monkfish roasted on the bone, with thick but mild Chraime sauce that complimented that richness nicely. It comes with addictive crispy sunchokes with quality Harrisa on a separate plate. Always expect the unexpected here. But the piece de resistance for me was the Pato Con Arroz. An expertly cooked dry aged duck confit with delicious rice and a Aji Amarillo (Peruvian yellow chili) based puree that made the dish quite distinct tasting.

Ended with two outstanding Gelato. Chai and Buttermilk Gelato with Saffron poached pear, and the Prickly Pear Gelato. Though if I have to choose I’ll take the former. Easily one of the best meals of the year for me and tough to please significant others. My daughter asked me how to describe this cuisine. The best I came up with New American on steroids. Go!

Original Post (May 2023)

Long time readers and my East Village food tour (RIP) participants are all too familiar with Foxface, the little sandwich shop that could. It is now Foxface Natural. As in the natural progression from a successful sandwich shop to a full service restaurant in the former Harry and Ida’s space. This first meal was a bitter sweet moment for me, after spending countless hours munching on pastrami at Harry and Ida’s over the years. They did call the cops on me once, but two nights in jail was a very small price to pay.

My first meal, of most likely many, at Foxface Natural was a memorable one. Though there’s one tiny issue with the place I should tell you about first. Its not really open yet. This was a pre-opening hummus and oysters themed event with chef Maoz Alonim of the famed Basta in Tel Aviv. EWZ historians will tell you that I dont normally attend such events, as I’m more of a “see you in about a year” type. But I attended this one, as I’m all too familiar with chef/owner Sivan’s capabilities.

So this is more of a public announcement rather than a lengthy review. What we got was a small preview of things to come. And with Sivan’s range, its anyone’s guess what will be on the menu on day one. Although something tells me the plate of the most distinct tasting pickles I’ve ever seen, and I, will exchange pleasantries in the future.

The old smoker that stayed behind is responsible for most of the hits. A superb lamb shoulder sitting on top of ultra creamy hummus, with a punchy green S’chug (Yemenite hot sauce). I’m more of a red S’chug guy, but good S’chug is good S’chug. Another hit was a slow smoked goat that comes with a soothing spiced yogurt sauce, almonds and mint.

And just because we dont eat nearly enough Feta at home (inside joke), we just had to try the Feta with eggplant, roasted in the new wood fired oven, sitting on a beautiful nettle puree. The lone dessert of Tahini Gelato with pistachios was just the proper finish.

Its a refreshing “mom & pop” debut in an increasingly corporate Manhattan. Old Harry and Ida’s fans will not recognize the new space, about a year in the making. The bar dominates the long room (I forgot to take pictures), and its safe to expect good wine. There will be wonderful smoked meat, glorious fish, but more importantly with Sivan, expect the unexpected.

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Au Cheval – Anatomy of a Burger

Posted on April 12, 2023 by Ziggy

When your spouse goes, “I feel like a Burger”, in NYC you might as well take your Ibuprofen 600 right at that moment. Not in 20 minutes, not in an hour, no sense of waiting any longer. Take it, and call in sick the next day. In most cities in the US its a fairly simple request. But here, before you know it, your mind goes berserk with a circus of possibilities. What kind, what kind of place, where? Do you want shake shack, other fast-food, fast-casual, diner, any of the 798 restaurants we know, steakhouse? All offer 50 shades of burger. You can also sub burger with pizza and get the same results.

With that said, this time wasnt as bad as before, and Au Cheval came to mind fairly quickly. A place that opened to much fanfare three years ago. You see, I’m one of those weird food bloggers that can wait years to eat at a popular place. I’m fairly low on the FOMO scale. I have one or two names in my head that stick around for a while until I forget about them or replace them. At the moment the name is Foul Witch. Cant reserve it for the life of me.

Au Cheval in Chicago, IL. Photo by Kevin J. Miyazaki/PLATE

Au Cheval is a Chicago import that’s billed as a diner. I dont know about Chicago, but calling this a diner in NYC is like calling an old school steakhouse, a shoe store. They both sell stuff. To find the place, you may need to play restaurant hide and seek. Even when you find the tiny alley, you still need to look for it. Once you enter, it feels like a hidden speakeasy.

There’s nothing extraordinary about the burger. “Then why are you dedicating an entire post to it, Ziggy?” Another good question Timmy. The answer is, as per above, NYC is blessed with a number of fancy burgers. And this is just a really solid burger. Its more of a sum of its parts situation, as opposed to a particularly noteworthy patty.

Its a regular burger on steroids, especially once you add the suggested fried egg and bacon. The bun is a perfectly soft brioche. Just the kind of softness and sturdiness you want from the supporting role. You get three thick cut, peppery and salty bacon strips that add just enough crispiness and flavor. The egg I usually find is more for aesthetics, but that’s not a negative. You get much of the juiciness from the American Cheese, and the “dijonaise”. All this results in a very satisfying bite for burger lovers, and most likely haters. Hence the long waits early on.

Its not a cheap burger if you opt to include the bacon and egg. Its $22 without, and just north of $30 with. Add the fries which I recommend sharing, and its way past your normal burger with fries price. But thats Manhattan for you these days. As for the rest of the menu, its actually quite interesting. I heard. I havent even glanced at it, but the many reports sound promising. Some, like Eater even claim, the burger is one of the least interesting items. But judging by how many burgers we’ve seen parading the room, good luck trying to order anything else.

Au Cheval
33 Cortlandt Alley (Tribeca)

Au Cheval

Categories: New York City, TriBeCa | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Contramar {CDMX} – The Culinary Gringo Happy Place

Posted on April 4, 2023 by Ziggy

How to not look a tourist? A strange question people have been asking since the beginning of time. In NYC my usual answer is walk fast, ditch your family, abduct a dog from the dog park, and ask random strangers if they like comedy. No one will confuse you for being a tourist. You may go to jail but its a tiny price to pay for the privilege of living like a New Yorker.

But the real question I have is what is wrong exactly with looking like a tourist. Is the tourist stigma really that strong in some parts of the world, or is it the fascination of trying to live like a local, and get a taste of local culture. Perhaps a combination of the wants?

Living in a city like NYC, the flip side resonates with me more. Locals should try to look more like tourists. We often take this fascinating city for granted, and spend our time rushing to the next task. We may pass by the same building 300 times without seeing what tourists see. What if we pause, slow down, smell the roses, and play with the squirrels from time to time.

Anywho, if you are a gringo like me, looking like a local is practically impossible in Mexico City. Especially when you are having lunch at the excellent Contramar, surrounded entirely by tourists. As is the case with many such establishments these days in CDMX, gentrification, and the price points of a Contramar price out the vast majority of the local population. Hence, a destination for the food tourist.

Contramar opened in 1998 by Gabriela Cámara, one of the most influential chefs in Mexico. In fact since 2019 she is also the culinary advisor to Mexico’s president. Sort of the Mexican version of Biden’s senior Ice Cream advisor, and Trump’s burger consultants. At some point Gabriela opened Cala in San Francisco, and the two restaurants were the subject of Netflix’s A Tale of Two Kitchens. The pandemic, Cámara’s move back to Mexico for the presidential job, and other factors contributed to the closing of Cala a few years back.

But Contramar continues to shine, partly thanks to their signatures – tuna tostadas, and the “red and green” fish. The latter is called Pescado a la talla on the menu, and it is glorious. Its a butterflied red snapper, cooked with a red chili sauce on one side, and parsley sauce on the other. Unlike other such dishes we’ve had, the fish is sauced prior to cooking. You’ll see it being paraded all over the place, along with a tray of taco accessories. The tacos we made from this fish were addictive to say the least, though I give the nod to the tangier red side.

And as good as the famous buttery, silky smooth tuna tostadas were, the Galician octopus app was equally as outstanding. Galician style octopus is one of my favorite dishes on the planet, and this was a beautiful and delicate version. We also couldnt find much fault with their famous fig tart either. Even though much of the flavor came from the base, not so much the fig. Another looker, like the rest of the dishes.

Cant get reservations? No problem. Just email them. This is not Pujol or Quintenil where reservations are hard to get. Its important to also mention the Margaritas at Contramar set the stage for pedestrian drinks the rest of the trip. The main room is stunning, comfortable, and the service is like a super friendly well oiled machine. Touristy or not, Contramar is in the business of culinary happiness. Go!

Categories: Mexico City | Tags: , , , , | 4 Comments

Rana Fifteen – Turkish Delights in Park Slope

Posted on March 21, 2023 by Ziggy

Quick, whats the opening lyrics of Bohemian Rhapsody? If you said “Mama”, you are in the majority, and wrong. If you said. “Is this the real life?”, you probably looked it up, after thinking Mama first. No matter how many times we listened to it, we are conditioned to think Mama first. It’s either somehow stuck, or the subconscious default answer as to many other things. How did you learn to cook? Mama. Why do you hate Mushrooms? Mama. Why do you rather not re-enter the house after forgetting something and instead ask me to bring it to you outside even if it means wasting precious minutes? Mama.

Mama was the reason why I didnt care so much for fish growing up. Then I realized I only knew her fish, and there’s other fish in the sea. My answer to how I learned to cook is actually Google. Both of our mom’s are typical eastern European “hold the flavor” cooks. When I go to my in-laws, they know to put certain dishes away from me, and the salt and pepper grinders as close as possible. I’m the only one using the grinders. They are so old they’ve become sticky, and although I continue to use them, I suspect most of the flavor is gone by now.

So instead, we live vicariously through restaurateurs that got their inspiration from moms that can flat out cook. Take Rana Fifteen, a newish joint on the border of Park Slope and Gowanus. Owner Ahmet Kiranbay’s mom Rana, as many moms in Western Turkey, would lay out a feast for the senses on every meal. Fifteen dishes approximately. Hence the number of plates you get if you choose the Rana’s Table option at Rana Fifteen. Just pick the main, one of the three sides, and you get everything but the kitchen sink.

They start you off with the appetizers. Like, all of them. And all of them have an ingredient or two that gives them the extra oomph. From the supremely flavorful garlic shrimp, to the perfectly creamy Labneh, to the as cool as the other side of the pillow Tarama fish roe. It will take a good amount of time to try all of them, and it will take an equal of amount figuring out your favorites. I crowned the Labneh, but there was no wrong answer.

As for the mains, so far, unconventionally we tried the chicken and Iskender steak as opposed to seafood. The steak was a nicely cooked strip topped with tangy tomato sauce (hence Iskender), sitting on top of bits of pita with yogurt on the side. I always hesitate to touch the yogurt when things work. The chicken is nicely spiced, albeit not easy to cut. While I enjoyed the two, seeing the octopus and branzino parade around the room, made me dream of coming back for a third feast. Note, this deal is for two people minimum, and you share a main for two. Its more than enough food.

The first meal was brunch, and the concept is similar. Just pick the egg dish and you get that to share plus a thoughtful array of a dozen or so savory and sweet homemade delights including outstanding pancakes and spreads. A symphony of flavors. There are only two egg dishes to choose from, which I kind of like. Less is more. I usually stop reading when I see a Menemen, one of my all time favorite eggy creations. You can have them scrambled, or Shakshuka style

Rana Fifteen is the latest from Ahmet Kiranbay and Armando Litiatco, the duo that brough us another EWZ darling, FOB Filipino. I tend to stalk the chefs I like. This duo is what NYC food is all about. A multinational homage to our ancestors. The Rana experience is closer to eating in someone’s home, rather than eating in a typical Manhattan resto. The friendly “Brooklyn casual” service, and exposed beams are the perfect fit. Meaning, dont expect your glass to be filled every 5 minutes, or even know the name of your waiter. Just go and enjoy mama’s cooking at its finest.

Rana Fifteen
209 4th Ave (Park Slope)
Recommended Dishes: Rana’s Table (Brunch, Dinner)

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