You eat Argentinian of course. When I was researching Paris food, one thing became fairly clear. Its not your father’s Paris. Much has changed since we’ve been here last (15-20 years). The restaurants back then are now referred to as “traditional”. And the city is now flooded with all sorts of ethnic eats, Asian/French fusion, Neo-bistros, and Asian/French Neo-bistros. This made researching a lot more fun and challenging at the same time. Do I want Tagine, duck confit, or Argentinian steak on Wednesday?
Live music on Wednesdays made that decision easier. Still, tiny Blanca in food heaven 11th arrondissement was a risky bet after a less than desirable meat streak (I’m looking at you Paul Bert). But this turned out to be the most memorable meal in a week full of them. The ultra talented guitarist/singer helped. Not only a beautiful voice, but he can play other instruments with his mouth. It was like a three person band for the price of one.
We were the only tourists in the house, confirmed by our bubbly Mexican waitress. It is time to change that ;). Although Owner/chef Violetta doesnt speak my English, we shared a few laughs. She has friends in high places, including baker Thierry Breton (no, the other one) and his outstanding bread that is part of your Blanca experience. One of the better breads of the trip. In NYC this kind of quality now comes with a price tag.
Started with perfectly blistered Shishito peppers with a light creamy guac that worked very well together. No matter how much Shishito we eat, we rarely get tired of them. Cheese empanadas that seemed on every table, were well seasoned and tasted much better than they looked.
The Pièce de Résistance and one of the reasons for the visit was the Argentinian Entrecôte. Unlike at Paul Bert the night before, cooked to med-rare perfection, flavor packed, and cheaper too. It came naked with salt, black peppers and homemade vinegary chimichurri on the side. I hesitated to put anything on it as it was that good, but pouring some of that chimichurri and black pepper turned out to be net positive.
Another highlight was the “chicken mistake”. We actually ordered the monkfish instead, but after a quick inspection we were happy to keep the super moist, expertly cooked mistake. It came with morels and mashed squash. Washed it all down with a potent Argentinian Cabernet. And finished with a very satisfying, light, flan with caramel. Flawless!
I will get back to our regularly scheduled programming in no time. But first, as I firmly, unapologetically stand with Israel, I want to share some of my favorite Israeli restaurants in NYC today. They can use some love these days.
Taste of Akko (Brooklyn)
Ok, if you read my previous post, you’d know I’m a little biased with this one. Its essentially taste of home for me. But after multiple visits to this homey fast-casual in the heart of Midwood, I’m very impressed. With only four or so tables, and with the animated owner, it really is like eating at someone’s house. Its a small, concentrated menu with much regard to ingredients and execution for such a casual place. The falafel plate in particular is a standout, but the hummus is no slouch
Falafel Tanami (Brooklyn)
I was there today for my monthly fix. I dont even selfishly miss the days when the place was empty and I could get my falafel in seconds. But the secret got out big time after Pete Wells shockingly included this hole in the wall in the Best 100 restaurants in NYC. I never imagined that a place like this can get such honor and be included with the Le Bernardins and Per Ses, but here we are. Very well deserved.
Courtesy of Tanami
Laser Wolf (Brooklyn)
Staying in Brooklyn but moving closer to tourist central. I’m a fan of the concept here. Order one dish and get a feast of Salatim, the best Hummus and Pita in the business, and ice cream. Oh did I mention all accept dessert is unlimited. And the view isnt too shabby either. There’s one little problem with this recommendation. As of this writing, I havent actually been here. Not from lack of trying. But I’ve been to the original Philly location that has exactly the same menu and concept.
19 Cleveland(Nolita)
Lousy name, great food. This is haute(ish) Israeli where you can still get some killer falafel and hummus, but also craftier items like eggplant carpaccio, fish shawarma and short rib Bourekas. I mentioned them not too long ago as a solid brunch choice, but lunch or dinner is just as good. As they proved with their little sister, these guys can flat out cook. Speaking of which…
Nish Nush (Tribeca)
When I used to work in Hell’s Kitchen, I was that guy that would hop on a Citibike to bike 30 minutes to Tribeca, and 45 bloated minutes back for a Falafel. This is still my go-to when I’m in the area. They widened their menu significantly but pretty much the only thing I get is still Falafel and the occasional Masabacha (hummus with chickpeas and egg)
Another trip in the books. A shot one this time to start a road trip to LA. Other than Napa which we didnt care for, we had a fantastic time. Sorbu, yet again was our first stop with a car full of luggage (its 10 mins from the airport). Its the perfect welcome to Portland kind of place. Get the eggplant sandwich, and any of the rotating pastas. But you really cant go wrong here. And now that I tried half of the menu at Scotch Lodge, I’m even more convinced. The Brie (again), Arancini, Semifredo were the standouts this time. Still one of the coolest bars in America.
Best “discovery” this time was Matt’s BBQ. Not exactly a local secret. In fact we showed up before noon on a Sunday and there was already an outdoor party and a line (moves quick). Fantastic Texas style BBQ rivals some of the best we’ve had like Hometown in NYC. Brisket, ribs, Jalapeño cheddar sausage, pulled pork, pork belly burnt ends (wow), all spot on flavors and no dryness in sight.
Enjoyed Phuket Cafe overall, but probably not as much as I hoped. I think I prefer sister Eem (below). With that said, I would come back for the fish salad and Panang curry with beef. The signature Paella was a little off. Way too much Socarrat and flavors just didn’t pop. Sides, smaller dishes were just ok, and I didnt care for their Sticky rice/mango interpretation. Pure Thai Cookhouse spoiled us forever.
September 2023 Post
Portland Oregon doesnt have a particular cuisine that I know. But for a city the population size of Staten Island, NY it has probably the best concentration of great eats per capita in the US. With an amazing array of restaurants and over 500 distinct food carts, trucks, and even double decker buses dispersed all over the city, you are within minutes away from great food no matter where you are. The challenges as a tourist is to sort all of this out and come up with a balanced plan. Heck, I had to quit online chess for a week for this. I think we did alright….
Lets start with the carts…
Sorbu
Went here straight after landing (after checking out McMenamins Kennedy School hotel – what a neat place). Sorbu is Tuscan inspired sandwiches recommended to me by a friend who lives in Livorno (Tuscany) years ago. A very nice combination of flavors, textures and quality homemade bread. Supremely juicy and crispy Porchetta. Eggplant with Torta di Ceci (Tuscan coast chickpea pancake) and Mozzarella was probably even better. These two are the menu staples while the rest rotate. If I have to pick one cart of the bunch, this is it. But the rest are not too shabby.
Bing Mi
Sexy name, sassy snack. I believe its the only pod (a cluster of carts) in the more upscale Northwest District. The specialty is Jianbing (“bing”), a Chinese crepe that was part of my Brooklyn food tours (RIP). I opted for the Chinese sausage and extra egg and this was a typical yet solid version. Got the crisp, flavor and spice level just right.
Bake on the Run
Indo-Guyanese cart in the new Lil’ America pod, though the cart has been around for a while and seemingly popular. We sampled a few items but settled on a lovely, thick Dahl, served like soup. Very rich, deep flavors that stay with you for a while. Really one of the better Dahls I’ve ever had.
Baon Kainan
Some of these carts like this Filipino cart serve different menus on different days and times just like restaurants. Baon Kainan brunch on Sundays may include Talongsilog, fried eggplant with garlic rice, veggies and perfectly cooked sunny side eggs. Or the similar Tosilog with pork belly. Just good ol’ solid comfort food. Even better is the sweet Ube (purple yam) rice cake. I’d come back just for this.
Tov Coffee & Tea
I believe that every city should have an Egyptian caffe inside a double decker bus. Tov is not a gimmick for tourists as the product quality is very important to the owner. The specialty here is a cold brew they make with cardamom and the various drinks they make with it like the “Nectar of the gods” with caramel. But just sitting inside the insta-bus is pretty cool.
The restaurants…
Petite Provence
This became our reliable morning delight as it was right near our apartment. Whether for pastries, eggy breakfasts or waterfall picnic supplies, namely Baguette with butter and jams.
Scotch Lodge
A four year old basement speakeasy/whisky bar, voted one of the best bars in the US by Esquire. Probably the most interesting drink menu I’ve ever seen with great inventive food. Although favorite drink turned out to be gin based, “Remain in Light”
Highlights were the house specialty Fried Brie, like mozzarella sticks on crack. Dill fries (dehydrated pickle seasoning) are like the perfect McDonald’s fries. A silky smooth Albacore crudo was probably our favorite overall. Skip the pastas and get more fries.
Kann
This elevated Haitian is one of the hottest tables in the country as of this writing. Making reservations was like reserving Taylor Swift tix, though if you time it right and got mad “refresh” skills, it’s doable. The national dish, twice cooked pork app is a must. The tomato, stone fruit and berry salad will make you rethink fruit salads.
Mixed feelings on the duck. Flavor and texture was there, and the bed of cane syrup was particularly addictive, but the leg and breast had widely different temps. Enjoyed it nonetheless, though it didn’t quite match the brilliance of the chicken. If you ever had good jerk in the Caribbean or elsewhere, this will be a revelation. I give this one three Habaneros. Speaking of which, just about every dish has it.
Eem
As a New Yorker, without knowing the full history, it seems like Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom is thew new Andy Ricker. Just about every Thai I considered is fully or partially owned by Earl. I strongly considered the latest venture Phuket Cafe, but opted to play it safe here. It’s essentially a marriage between Thai and Texas BBQ with “vacation drinks” to help with the consummation. Start with the awesome Pina Colada.
The white curry with brisket is one of their best sellers and I can see why. Beautiful, milky, well balanced curry with that smoky brisket. Same with the chopped brisket fried rice with plenty of socarrat action. Smoked pork Krapao is another winner. A sloppy fried egg but superb tasting pork belly. Very solid sweet and sour (and hot) boneless fried chicken thighs. Nothing wrong with it but not as distinct as the others.
Cabezon
Portland excels in so many things that you might overlook some important ones, like seafood. Since 2009 Cabezon established itself as a premier seafood specialist. Comfortable room with ample space between tables. Feels almost like old school in a new school setting. Other than perhaps the meh Blinis, everything was fantastic.
The basil and phyllo wrapped shrimp was superb. Beautiful Asian flavors from the Thai basil, glass noodles and curry sauce. The mussels were even better. While not the best mussels I ever had, one of the better mussel dishes, thanks to the fries soaking up the great sauce, beans, and bits of chorizo. It’s good size too, more of an entree.
The house specialty Cioppino was fresh tasting and just about flawless. The grilled Tomba tuna was nicely cooked but since it wasn’t seasoned much it needs to be eaten quickly before it dried. And this is not the time to overlook dessert. Get the Creme brûlée and a peach cake when in season and call me in the morning. Not too early.
I have to make this one brief. Got much on the plate this week. I cant even take the time to think of a better title, but this one is pretty telling once you understand. Kjun is a tiny, and I mean tiny, hole in the wall with a big soul in Murray Hill. The owner is Jae Jung, born in Seoul, trained in NOLA, refined in NYC as her bio so cleverly puts it.
Jung’s resume is one of the most impressive I’ve seen (August, Herbstaint, and all sorts of Michelined NYC establishments), and so is her cooking that naturally morphed into a Korean/Cajun mashup. Hence the name, Kjun. This is her first solo project. While we dont have a shortage of of Korean (especially in that area), nor Cajun, or even NOLA inspired Korean (Haenyeo in Park slope), I cant think of anything remotely like Kjun.
From the starters the Boudin Balls and chicken liver pate were particularly strong. Four explosive Schweddy balls stuffed with starch noodles instead of rice. The buttery and immensely flavorful pate that no one talks about might be the unsung hero. Soy marinated deviled eggs were fine but not as memorable as others. Same for the Okra Kimchi that got boring even as a side. The forgettable stuff here are only that because of the unforgettable.
All the larger dishes were solid especially the Jambalaya featuring a nice cabbage Kimchi action and juicy mixed meat. Beautiful clean flavors that stay with you for a some time. The fried chicken was above average, though I wouldn’t go as far as calling it one of the best in town as Pete Wells did. It was nicely marinated but a bit on the greasy side and too large to work with on such small tables. Sharing it for three required some planning.
We also enjoyed the cheesy grits with Andouille. Quite sweet for Andouille but it worked. For dessert we much preferred the Dalgona Banana Foster over their version of pecan pie. Think a Banana Foster and Tiramisu love child. You also get a free delicious probiotic drink at the end, and a welcoming starter bite at the beginning to get the juices flowing. Everything about the place is quirky including the stools.
Just to emphasize and help visualize, Kjun is the size of a small coffee shop. Wells jokingly compared it to a van, but its really not much bigger than a U-haul truck. The three of us got a round table that would normally be reserved for one or two. But not only we managed, I dont get a sense from reading reviews that its much of a problem for others. Perhaps most understand that its a small price to pay, and its part of the charm. This one is a major Go!
Kjun 154 E 39th St (Murray Hill) Recommended Dishes: Chicken liver pate, Boudin Balls, Jambalaya, Grits with Andouille, Banana Foster
A long overdue update to the original post, Cacio e Perfect. 7 years since opening, and 5 years since our last meal, not much has changed at Lilia. Its still one of the toughest Brooklyn tables, and the menu features the same grade A pastas that put Lilia on the global map. There are very few places in NYC that can rival Missy Robbins’ brilliance.
But if you cant reserve dont despair. Turn on “Notify” on Resy, and/or keep refreshing the Resy page on the day of. You can also just show up midweek early and get a table outside or at the bar. If none of this work, despair! But have a plan B just in case. That area is loaded with respectable plan B’s like Laser Wolf (can also be tough), Kokomo, Le Crocodile, and a good looking Frenchie next door to Lilia, La petite joie. I’ve been staring at their pictures of Steak au poivre longer than I’d like to admit, even to you.
Lets start with the “Almost”. In my not so humble opinion, the “cocktail snacks” are not of the greatest quality. The Prosciutto is basic, saved somewhat by the Parmigiano Butter. The signature Cacio e Pepe Frittelle should be renamed to Cacio e Sale. I’ve enjoyed this in the past, but this time it was just dry, and extremely salty. That leaves the House made Mozzarella toast as an ok choice early on.
Another disappointment this time was the Bagna Cauda. The dipping sauce is still tasty, but its almost like one needs to take a stroll at the Union Square farmers market before the meal, to see what vegetables are on display this time. Otherwise its the luck of the draw with this dish. Snap peas, carrots were fine, while fennel and celery should not be there unless accommodated by some chicken wings.
But those pastas. Mamma Mia! The pillowy goodness signature Agnolotti, as good as it is, is my third favorite pasta here. The Mafaldini is probably the best Cacio e Pepe interpretation in the city, with that profound Pink Peppercorn and perfectly chewy ribbons. But my favorite pasta here is the Fettuccine with lamb ragu. I’m just a sucker for a good ragu and this is as good and balanced as it gets. Unlike the raw fennel I mentioned before, the fennel seeds work so nicely with the lamb here.
A nice discovery on this evening was the Grilled Clams. Love the Calabrian Chili action here. Missy is not shy with the Chili, especially compared to most Italian. It’s the Ugly Baby of Italian food in NYC. Lilia is still a major go. Just skip the small overpriced stuff, and get straight to business (pastas, seafood, meats, and more pasta).
Sal Lamboglia’s Cafe Spaghetti has been on my radar since it opened pretty much. It only took me about a year to finally check it out, but thats pretty much my average in NYC for new places. Some places take much less, some I never make, and some sadly close by the time I’m finally ready. Its amazing how many dont see their one year anni. But over time I found a year is a good amount for an establishment to find its stride. Though this approach has its disadvantages as well.
This place has it all. A large backyard, a good size front porch and sidewalk space, a hefty buzz, a NYT seal of approval, and a menu that NYC essentially grew up with. Even the name, as playful and childish as it is, is catchy like a lady gaga tune (an earlier one). Catchy among adults and kids alike. What kid will say no to a Cafe Spaghetti, or Spaghetti. Yes, mindful of Celiac, although gluten free pasta is available.
Eater
Hence a backyard full of happy North Brooklyn families on an early Saturday night. In that part of Brooklyn, its family time, not so much senior time. Other than one fussy baby that I suspect thought his Fussili was overcooked, all extremely well behaved. Unlike the evening of one particular reviewer that deducted stars because kids were allowed to roam around. What exactly do you expect the staff to do.
The food for the most part was adequate, but the whole experience was more so. Good to see local beer selection, including Staten Island’s own Flagship. Mrs Z loved her Mezcalita and now demands I make it at home. Good food pacing, almost a rarity in NYC these days. And in true NYC 21st century, more than three menu sections, including a “Cicchetti” section that is not too distinguishable than the antipasti below.
Rice Balls (Arancini), topped with “Cacio e Pepe” was just solid enough to not require the typically accompanied red sauce. The oversalted Brussel Sprouts with Pepperoni wasnt as successful. It could have just relied on the salt from the meat. The pastas were more than serviceable. A solid Vongole, and Penne with a creamy garlic sauce and lump Maine crab, good even if could have used more of the advertised heat.
The one glaring miss was a semi dry and uneventful Chicken Francese. Growing up with this staple we were curious about Sal’s interpretation, but it wasnt much of an upgrade over any Staten Island/south Brooklyn pizzeria for roughly half of the cost. The undisputed star, piece de resistance was a piece of dad’s Tiramisu. Just moist enough, just creamy enough, just perfect enough.
A fun, albeit uneven meal. I can see why Pete Wells calls it the Anti-Carbone, but overall it falls short of the promised ode to the classic neighborhood Italian. The Manhattan style, extra large, overly proper staff wont remind you of any Outer Borough red sauce Italian. Half of the staff comically tried to take our unfinished pastas away as they were trained to do. Just seems like “too many cooks” outside the kitchen. Its unclear if the true aim is for a neighborhood Italian, or destination Italian. But a solid new option for the Park Slopers and Carroll Gardeners nonetheless.
Cafe Spaghetti 126 Union St (Columbia Street Waterfront District) Recommended Dishes: Rice Balls, Vongole, Penne with Crab, Tiramisu
This is going to be quick. I think. I often say that and end up writing life stories that have nothing to do with the post. But this time I will make it my mission. Besides, there’s not much to show and tell in this case. We took plenty of other pictures, but as I will explain, I rather not show them. A first on EWZ. Restaurant photos that are not safe for work.
When you enter this legend, about 10km north of Coimbra, you will notice that every table has pretty much the same items. A huge plate of Suckling Pig with sliced oranges, a bubbly, French fries, and some veggies. French fries is something you’ll find all over Portugal, outside of haute joints. A churrascaria without potatoes is an experiment gone horribly wrong.
This is suckling pig country, and Rui dos Leitões might be its emperor. The only decision is how much pig. One kg was perfect for two hungry couples (including one hangry guide) on a late lunch on the way to Tomar. They do have what seems to be a full menu, but after around 3pm and before dinner time, I’m told you can only get the pig and the usual sides. While most whites, and certain reds will do, a popular pairing here is Spumante.
Lets just say Segovia is now home to our second favorite Suckling Pig. Segovia was the complete experience, with plenty of theatre. But Rui dos Leitões dished out a sensational tasting pieces of meat, without the dramatics. Since they let the pigs mature to 5 weeks, you get much more of the juicy flesh than Segovia where it’s mostly crispy skin of the much younger pigs. Younger pig means milkier flesh, and not enough of it. The oranges serve as a palate cleanser.
We finished with a tour of the ovens where we took the pictures I struggle with. If there are any images that may make me stop eat meat, these may be it. Ask for a tour after the meal. This is just the type of place that complements any Portugal food itinerary nicely. After you finish sucking the bones at Zé Manel dos Ossos in Coimbra (I believe owner recently passed), Uber your way to Rui dos Leitões for an experience you’ll be talking about for a long time.
There are many reasons to visit the City of Brotherly Love. Like, well.. hmm, I cant think of any right now. Give me a minute.. Oh ok, so there’s this bell that tourists are queuing up to see, but I hear its broken. There are also these famous steps where tourists run up and down. Such fun! And how can I forget the prison, Easter State something. See, plenty of things to do and see, but perhaps most importantly, to eat.
Philly gave birth to two of my favorite mini empires.. Han Dynasty, and Michael Solomonov’s. Hummus is not exactly the first or 10th thing that comes to mind when you think Philly. But between Zahav, Dizengoff, and Laser Wolf you will be hard pressed finding better Israeli food or hummus anywhere else. I’ve yet to set foot inside a Vetri place because good Italian is just too easy to find in NYC, but thats another big part of the local food puzzle.
But to me, first and foremost, its the Philly Cheesesteak. I met enough people who raised eyebrows at the notion of going to Philly for a greasy sandwich, but thats most likely because they simply havent had a good one. I can probably find a decent Philly Cheesesteak in NYC (Shorty’s is one). But everything I tried paled in comparison to my long time fave… John’s Roast Pork.
While tourists flock to the more accessibly popular 70’s boy names, Geno’s, Pats, Jim’s, we settled on the more local, remote John’s. But love can also be blind. At some point I woke up in cold sweat realizing that I liked John’s more than my family and friends. While my taste was more in tune with the local John’s fanatics, the cheese, or lack of wiz, and the overall flavor just wasnt appreciated nearly as much by my closest, namely Mrs Z.
Enter another boy’s name, Angelo. As in angels singing when you take your first bite of this beast. As a New Yorker, I dont know if I’ll ever try their pizza, also much hyped about, especially after a Barstool review a few years back. While many go for the great looking pies, the vast majority of the 30 or so last Saturday were waiting for the crown jewel sandwich.
The scene at Angelo’s is part of the experience. A doorman helps with the traffic, and directs you straight to a cashier. Inside the kitchen area is what looks like a dozen strong, factory like operation. The only problem is, and its not a small one, there’s nowhere to eat it. At least at John’s you have the outdoor space. We took a walk along the block, and after 30 minutes our sandwiches were ready.
We ate ours in the car across the street. Tight parking in that part of Philly. The first thing we noticed is the bread. A seeded roll, somewhat remarkably also baked in-house. I got mine with the suggested Cooper Sharp cheese and fried onions, while adding mushrooms to the mix. She got it naked with sweet peppers on the side. She liked hers a lot.
I cant help but use the “best I ever had” cliché every chance I have. But in this case I have very little doubt about that. The ribeye/cheese balance and quality, the bread, and the rest of the ingredients produced a very satisfying, rich bite. The bread especially made the bulk of the difference. I wasnt planning to write about this, hence took a few poor shots of this, but you can see it better in this most excellent post. Generally these sandwiches are not very photogenic, but once you have it, you start drooling over them pics.
As someone wrote on my Insta page, “Angelo’s will do that”. My loyalty to the fantastic John’s is in serious jeopardy. I cant speak for consistency, but this was just about perfect. A destination sandwich that will give the rocky steps you’ll need to do after, a little bit more meaning.
A quick reminder that Pinch Chinese is still dishing out superb stuff in Soho. A great place to come solo, as a couple, family meeting your kid’s new boyfriend, or any group for that matter to try some of the larger dishes like the crab, and the sensational Wind Sand Chicken which I’ve written about before. Its the sum of all parts kinda dish. Not only you got the quality well marinated meet, juicy flesh, but you’ll be hard pressed finding crispier, more delicious skin.
They can just remove the skin, and serve it as a side dish as weird as it sounds. In Coimbra, Portugal a bones dish consisting of, you guesses it, bones, gained much fame over time. So I dont see a reason why this Cholesterol Special would’nt work. Ok, maybe if they dont call it the Cholesterol Special, but then again, it may be marketing brilliance.
But the one dish we’ve been getting from day one here is the cumin ribs. And the description “Fall of the bones – Jocelyn from Yelp” never gets old. Its quite remarkable that cumin perfume is not a thing. You smell it from the next table as soon as you sit down and you cant meaningfully participate in any conversation until you get it.
The soup dumplings here are a cure for summertime sadness. You may even pinch yourself after the first bite. Wait, is that the reason for the name, or is it due to the pinching or gripping process when you lift those babies. They are tiny but explosive umami bombs. Another must and new discovery for us is the braised pork with white rice and a mustardy greens concoction. Like elevated lunch box comfort food I would order again and again.
There were however some small misses last time. Not big but surprising considering the excellence and attention to detail over the years. The eggplant in garlic was overly sweet and not very garlicky this time. The Dan Dan Noodles tasted a little off (perhaps the star anise overwhelmed). Nevertheless, another enjoyable meal at this Z-List original
In the land of the new and exciting, its often easy to overlook the established and proven. The “What’s new” questions on social media by people that visited the city once or twice before have always been a mystery to me. Did you try any of the other 99.9%, like Pig and Khao, Minetta Tavern, Popina, etc etc. Are they stale? What exactly is wrong with them? There’s always something new and exciting, but the real question is who will make it past year one, or year ten. 60% fail in their first year, 80% fail within five, and very few make it to 10.
The Z-List Thai staple Somtum Der not only keep soldiering on in the East Village but is now doing it in Red Hook, Brooklyn. While East Village is ultra competitive as I keep saying for years due to the lack of tourists and abundance of students, opening in no-train Red Hook is just another level of Chutzpah. Generally Thai restaurants in Red Hook and neighboring Columbia Street Waterfront District (because real estate firms havent come up with a cute 2 syllable name) dont last very long. See Pok Pok, Krok .
Somtum Der was one of the first to introduce New Yorkers to fiery Isan food when it opened in East Village a decade ago. That was only a year after opening in Bangkok. Both places are in the Michelin guide if you care about such things. In fact the East Village location even got a Michelin star that lasted a whole 5 minutes. The new Red Hook location has exactly the same menu, with pictures. If you dont like menus with colorful pictures, you are probably not enjoying life to the fullest. If we were to give awards to menus with the most vibrant pictures, Somtum Der would be an easy three Kodak recipient.
While Somtum is known for the various namesake papaya salads, I der you to find a more flavorful bird in NYC. Just seeing the picture on the menu for me is like a kid hearing the ice cream truck. Along with the marinaded pork with the soothing sticky rice lollypops, the fried chicken thighs is a usual must. The thing about Somtum Der is that they can take any old, stale, dry meat or fish, and make it taste amazing. Thats not to say that its the type of meat we usually encounter here, but that’s the type of seasoning and marinades they use. Its sort of what Isan food is all about. Preserving meat and fish in historically poor areas.
Its also worth noting the weekly specials, in particular the sickest mushroom salad I ever had, Goi Hed. (invented by someone who thought the Beech mushrooms reminded them of uncircumcised penises). Out of the regulars, last time in Brooklyn we also enjoyed the garlic beef with rice, and a serviceable Pad Thai. My first Pad Thai in maybe 20 years. Blame the pictures.
The cool thing about the Brooklyn location is that it has a lovely garden that feels like you are in a neighbor’s BBQ. Another plus is that its in the heart of Red Hook, walking distance to the legendary Steve’s Key Lime Pie, an important former stop on my Brooklyn tour (RIP). I go straight for the raspberry Swingle these days. Might as well also check out the Merchant Stores Building next door. If it doesnt work out with Mrs Z, my next wedding venue will be at the The Liberty Warehouse. But next month will be 30 years, so who really knows…
Somtum Der 85 Avenue A (East Village) 380 Van Brunt St (Red Hook) Recommended Dishes: Fried Chicken, Marinadet grilled pork, Mushroom salad (special), Garlic beef
Eating With Ziggy 