Every time I’m invited to an event at Don Peppe, I huff, and puff and bitch all the way there. Its too far, its too old, its past its prime, I think I have a rash and it could get nasty any minute. No shortage of excuses. I just dont like to travel too far for old school Italian. But every single time I go there, I’m not only reminded how good it is, but I’m also reminded that we dont really have anything like it.
Even with a party of 10 on a Saturday night, no reservations allowed (I dont think). And even with a very full house, and standing room only in the oversized waiting room, we got our table in no time. People travel here from all parts of the city, often well over an hour to get a chance to experience this legend. In fact, its one of the only reasons to get to the JFK area other than JFK. Well, except the casino or if you are on your way to long island as I once did with my daughters. Introducing them to Don Peppe was like taking them to a Goodfellas movie set.
New York Times
Don Peppe is family style at its core. Families, and large groups have been coming here since 1968. Its Carmine’s for locals if you will, though arguably much better food. At this isolated location, you better be good to make it all those years. The only issue, and its not a small one with a large group, is what to order, and how much of it. Your eyes are often bigger than your stomach. And as much as you want to be at the mercy of the trusted waiter, our shrinking stomachs may not always agree with his assessment.
I think more than half of the people come here strictly for the Vongole. Spaghetti with clam sauce is individually plated table side, and reliably addictive. When the waiter took the order and dictated the amount we need, my friend mistakenly told him that he doesnt believe every one of us wants it. The waiter corrected the silly goose with a show of hands.
Earlier on, the baked clams and simple house salads were winners. The salad is individually plated as well. We also often like to order Shrimp Fra Diovolo as an app. Fresh, plump, and plenty of heat for old school Italian. Though its beyond time for us to try some of the other Shrimp dishes that I suspect are even better. The only app I would skip is the mozz-tomato-peppers combo.
The zesty, buttery “Francese” like chicken was spot on. Same with the perfectly flaky, delicious Sole. But the one main that people often go nuts about here is the Veal Don Peppe. Breaded veal cutlets covered with tomatoes, peppers and onions. Its a crowd pleaser even on crowded stomachs.
And just when the food coma starts to kick in, we still rarely miss dessert here. From the Tiramisu, Tartufo, and Sorbetto, its hard to go wrong here. While the prices have increased over the years, the fine house red is still fairly affordable. Not the most touristy location, but you wont find a more fitting “welcome to NYC” when arriving to JFK. Go!
Final Paris post. It wasnt a flawless eating trip by any stretch. In between all that brilliance we had a few hiccups (I’m looking at you Eunoé), but we were quite happy with the final result. The food scene in Paris is a lot more interesting than 10-20 years ago, when old school Bistros were just Bistros, and proper Asian and other ethnic food was almost nonexistent. All this means with some careful researching you can create quite the varied food itinerary. Although personally I was mainly focused on food that’s not part of my diet back at home.
Escargot at L’Aubergeade
I’ve already written about this hidden gem in the 12th. Very popular with locals. In fact we were one of few that were not given hugs by the owner (reflected in my Yelp review!) who was running around as if there were two of him. Well, until we realized there were in fact two, twins. I could have picked pretty much any dish from this meal, but the addictive Escargot stood out for us. Just the right amount of butter and garlic, just like we like them.
“Tomato” at Granite
Tom Meyer’s Granite is a welcomed retreat from the mad scramble Louvre nearby. A 10+ dish feast for all senses. I dont take detailed notes anywhere, but if I did here, it would read like a novel. There were too many hits to mention, but the Tomato dish was the most memorable one. Of course it was not just a tomato, but a “welcome to a Michelin star in Paris tomato”. A flavor symphony with each morsel.
Sweetbread at Parcelles
A local gem that became a tourist darling once the NYT and other publications took note. Its one of the hottest tables in Paris these days. While all dishes were great especially one particular Calf’s head carpaccio, the Sweetbread is the reason to come. Whether you like sweetbread is almost irrelevant. With that mashed potato, dark veal jus and capers, its a spoonful of pure bliss. They only make about 10-15 of them, so some call to reserve it for dinner.
Jambon Beurre at Le Petite Vendome
A sandwich legend among the Guccis and the Louis in the area. Sandwiches available at the bar or takeout, and they are simply sensational. We shared a classic, and one with quality black pepper and goat cheese. Just my kind of old school at a price of less than half of some of the other notables. Nice atmosphere, music, and fun, happy waiters even when they get super busy. Best to arrive right after lunchtime if you can, when the pesky tourists disperse.
Argentinian Entrecôte at Blanca
The fact that we had this a day after our visit to the famed Paul Bert is everything you need to know. Superb quality meat cooked to med-rare perfection. I hesitated to put anything on it because it was so flavor packed but after trying it I happily poured the homemade vinegary chimichurri and black pepper. Its a tiny place so reserve ahead. Music on Wednesdays as of this writing.
Whiting at Perception
The best and fun way to take advantage of the Paris Michelin culture is try to find the places that are on the cusp of stardom. Perception in the 9th is one of many Asian inspired contemporary neo Bistros, led by a talented Korean chef. While I could have easily picked the stuffed cabbage (ratatouille moment for Mrs Z), or BBQ pork cooked three ways, the beautiful, delicate whiting was unlike anything I ever had.
Cassoulet at La Forge (5th)
When I was younger, and had a head full of dazzling hair, my favorite French dish was the Cassoulet. When I saw it on menus I would stop reading the rest of it. That’s why I was setting myself up for disappointment at La Forge, even though its one of their specialties. Its so often not the same as you remember. Needless to say it was as glorious as I was hoping and then some. Although the duck confit at this Southwestern old-timer was equally as good. One of our favorite meals.
Profiteroles at Grande Brasserie
While I’ve eaten my fair share of Profiteroles during my young life, I never imagined that it would make this list. Between the size, and the flavors of this monster, its just about the best Profiteroles we ever had. Not surprising considering Grande Brasserie is one of the more reliable traditional Brasseries in the center. And the attractive, well lit room is a major bonus for us young boomers.
Cheese at Paroles de Fromagers
The plan, to eat a great amount of cheese while in Paris was a big fail. All the popular stores were brimming with tourists, and the rest of the time my stomach was brimming with other food. But I saved room for the cheese and wine class at Paroles de Fromagers where it was not only educational, but some of the tastiest Cheese I ever had. Époisses, Saint-Nectaire, Roquefort Carles just to name a few.
Pastries at Cyril Lignac
Even though they didnt quite look like this when we ate them at the airport. The Equinox, Citron, and Kouign-Amann, all outstanding in that order. I dont usually get excited by looks, but these were the most hypnotic pastries I’v ever seen, with the flavors to match. And they open at 7 am (at least the one on Paul Bert). I mean nothing opens this early in Paris
Speaking of which (last post), a long overdue update to the Z-List. Five in, five out….
Out
Capizzi – Just not as strong as the many newer pizzerias Bowery Meat Co. – Hard to stay below $100 especially if you want steak Marta – Sadly closed Scampi – Sadly closed Faro – Closed. The location was a killer
In
Indian Table Foxface Natural Claude L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele 19 Cleveland
I was told by a local to keep this one a secret. I told him sure no problem, but failed to mention that I’m not very good at keeping secrets. Not to mention the local who gave me this secret equally sucks at it. Sometimes secrets get you in trouble. Like when I told my primary doctor that I smoked cigarettes at the age of 6. He’s old and didnt quite get the half joke and sent me for a Chest CT scan and other tests.
With the war in the Middle East consuming our lives these days, our visit to L’Aubergeade feels like ages ago. But it was only last month. On our first night in Paris the stars aligned, and everything clicked. Well, until we picked the “iPhone Tower” as our after meal Passeggiata. Its like a giant iPhone commercial these days as that’s all you see all around you. iPhones, red balloons, and a tower somewhere between it all.
L’Aubergeade is an old timer, run by two old timers. Twins in fact. I was about to say to my wife, “its like there are two of him”, until I noticed our waiter/owner had a different shirt this time. The twins easily handled the entire house, running around like two teenagers. In the US we are accustomed to seeing double the amount of workers in places this size, not to mention half the age of the twins.
Early on the silky smooth Foie Gras with clementine jam was a nice preview of things to come. Even more memorable was the addictive Escargot. Garlicky, buttery, awesomeness. Just like we like them. The problem with perfect escargot on your first night in Paris is that the rest of the stay they may seem pedestrian (and they were).
The deconstructed steak tartare was more deconstructed than I anticipated with all the ingredients including all the sauces on the table. But after mixing it up with some adjustments I think I’m ready for a chef de Tartare at Granite. Not sure I prefer it this way but enjoyed it nonetheless.
Leg of lamb with couscous was masterfully cooked. Extremely tender and scrumptious. Finished with a nice “Norwegian Omelet”, a new one for us. Essentially a baked Alaska. Flambéed, ultra light, fluffy, with an ice cream surprise inside. My favorite kind of surprise.
L’Aubergeade is just the kind of rustic we look for on our travels. Judging by the amount of locals in the house, it seems like everyone’s kind. Its not quite on the tourist trail. The residential location in the 12th will probably make sure of that. Tremendous value to boot with 88 euros total including a nice bottle of house white. This is a major Go!
Its official boys and girls. Indian Table is now my favorite Indian in NYC. It may change next month or even next week. But for the time being, this Cobble Hill gem fits my taste like a favorite pair of shoes that you can only wear once or twice a week. Otherwise you risk losing their efficiency or they become stinky.
Indian Table is far from the typical NYC Indian, even though they offer some typical dishes. Thankfully I might add, after trying their killer Butter Chicken. Indian Table is Goan at its core, so plenty of Goan and hence Portuguese influences throughout the menu. There’s even a Pasteis De Nata for dessert. At the helm is a seasoned Eric McCarthy whose resume includes Michelined Tamarind and Tulsi among other notables.
McCarthy’s latest is not the Michelin kind (although you never know), but a nice bridge between sophisticated and your corner casual Indian. There’s a smart wine and cocktail list, in addition to a headache inducing food menu. The manager can masterfully guide and help with the headaches. In addition to Goan specialties, Indian Table also offers Restaurant Week theme menus that highlight different regions. On my first visit, it was the Malvan region, with a group of “Chowhounds”.
As for the food, duds are hard to come by. Eric’s Punjabi Samosas are rock solid, while the tomato ladened crispy cauliflower is more typical. The star early on was the beautifully marinated Achari Chicken Tikka. Smoky, minty, and flavor packed. Speaking of smoky, we wished for more wonderful chorizo from “Auntie Rosie’s Choris Pao” and less of the other stuff (like the spongy bun) but I’d order it again.
The chicken lineup is the main headache culprit. It has everything I look for in an Indian restaurant including my long time friend, the Chicken Chettinad. I tend to pick places that have this on the menu. Peppery, well balanced, and really one of the best versions I’ve had. While the Butter Chicken was not on the menu this night, they happily made a solid version. A rare Xacuti (Goan specialty) was fine, though some did not appreciate the star anise and fennel notes.
Another hit was the Konkan Railway Mutton. Unclear if its a riff on the railway classic that was served on the trains between Bombay and Calcutta during British rule, or another railway creation. Regardless, its another tender, succulent, red pepper based goat curry. Mutton in Indian cuisine is referred to goat and sheep, just to confuse us further.
With all these meat dishes, I opted for Jackfruit Biryani. Jackfruit did an admirable job subbing for meat, with some aid from the potato, but I was still missing the meat slightly. Like when your favorite team wins the game, but dont play as well as they usually play. I wasnt missing the meat at all in the Achari Baigan (eggplant) however. A wonderful lineup, all washed down with a fine Sancerre which is quickly becoming our new favorite white.
Indian Table 234 Court St (Cobble Hill, Brooklyn) Recommended Dishes: Achari Chicken Tikka, Choris Pao, Punjabi Samosas, Chicken Chettinad, Butter Chicken (ask if not on the menu), Konkan Railway Mutton, Achari Baigan
You eat Argentinian of course. When I was researching Paris food, one thing became fairly clear. Its not your father’s Paris. Much has changed since we’ve been here last (15-20 years). The restaurants back then are now referred to as “traditional”. And the city is now flooded with all sorts of ethnic eats, Asian/French fusion, Neo-bistros, and Asian/French Neo-bistros. This made researching a lot more fun and challenging at the same time. Do I want Tagine, duck confit, or Argentinian steak on Wednesday?
Live music on Wednesdays made that decision easier. Still, tiny Blanca in food heaven 11th arrondissement was a risky bet after a less than desirable meat streak (I’m looking at you Paul Bert). But this turned out to be the most memorable meal in a week full of them. The ultra talented guitarist/singer helped. Not only a beautiful voice, but he can play other instruments with his mouth. It was like a three person band for the price of one.
We were the only tourists in the house, confirmed by our bubbly Mexican waitress. It is time to change that ;). Although Owner/chef Violetta doesnt speak my English, we shared a few laughs. She has friends in high places, including baker Thierry Breton (no, the other one) and his outstanding bread that is part of your Blanca experience. One of the better breads of the trip. In NYC this kind of quality now comes with a price tag.
Started with perfectly blistered Shishito peppers with a light creamy guac that worked very well together. No matter how much Shishito we eat, we rarely get tired of them. Cheese empanadas that seemed on every table, were well seasoned and tasted much better than they looked.
The Pièce de Résistance and one of the reasons for the visit was the Argentinian Entrecôte. Unlike at Paul Bert the night before, cooked to med-rare perfection, flavor packed, and cheaper too. It came naked with salt, black peppers and homemade vinegary chimichurri on the side. I hesitated to put anything on it as it was that good, but pouring some of that chimichurri and black pepper turned out to be net positive.
Another highlight was the “chicken mistake”. We actually ordered the monkfish instead, but after a quick inspection we were happy to keep the super moist, expertly cooked mistake. It came with morels and mashed squash. Washed it all down with a potent Argentinian Cabernet. And finished with a very satisfying, light, flan with caramel. Flawless!
I will get back to our regularly scheduled programming in no time. But first, as I firmly, unapologetically stand with Israel, I want to share some of my favorite Israeli restaurants in NYC today. They can use some love these days.
Taste of Akko (Brooklyn)
Ok, if you read my previous post, you’d know I’m a little biased with this one. Its essentially taste of home for me. But after multiple visits to this homey fast-casual in the heart of Midwood, I’m very impressed. With only four or so tables, and with the animated owner, it really is like eating at someone’s house. Its a small, concentrated menu with much regard to ingredients and execution for such a casual place. The falafel plate in particular is a standout, but the hummus is no slouch
Falafel Tanami (Brooklyn)
I was there today for my monthly fix. I dont even selfishly miss the days when the place was empty and I could get my falafel in seconds. But the secret got out big time after Pete Wells shockingly included this hole in the wall in the Best 100 restaurants in NYC. I never imagined that a place like this can get such honor and be included with the Le Bernardins and Per Ses, but here we are. Very well deserved.
Courtesy of Tanami
Laser Wolf (Brooklyn)
Staying in Brooklyn but moving closer to tourist central. I’m a fan of the concept here. Order one dish and get a feast of Salatim, the best Hummus and Pita in the business, and ice cream. Oh did I mention all accept dessert is unlimited. And the view isnt too shabby either. There’s one little problem with this recommendation. As of this writing, I havent actually been here. Not from lack of trying. But I’ve been to the original Philly location that has exactly the same menu and concept.
19 Cleveland(Nolita)
Lousy name, great food. This is haute(ish) Israeli where you can still get some killer falafel and hummus, but also craftier items like eggplant carpaccio, fish shawarma and short rib Bourekas. I mentioned them not too long ago as a solid brunch choice, but lunch or dinner is just as good. As they proved with their little sister, these guys can flat out cook. Speaking of which…
Nish Nush (Tribeca)
When I used to work in Hell’s Kitchen, I was that guy that would hop on a Citibike to bike 30 minutes to Tribeca, and 45 bloated minutes back for a Falafel. This is still my go-to when I’m in the area. They widened their menu significantly but pretty much the only thing I get is still Falafel and the occasional Masabacha (hummus with chickpeas and egg)
Another trip in the books. A shot one this time to start a road trip to LA. Other than Napa which we didnt care for, we had a fantastic time. Sorbu, yet again was our first stop with a car full of luggage (its 10 mins from the airport). Its the perfect welcome to Portland kind of place. Get the eggplant sandwich, and any of the rotating pastas. But you really cant go wrong here. And now that I tried half of the menu at Scotch Lodge, I’m even more convinced. The Brie (again), Arancini, Semifredo were the standouts this time. Still one of the coolest bars in America.
Best “discovery” this time was Matt’s BBQ. Not exactly a local secret. In fact we showed up before noon on a Sunday and there was already an outdoor party and a line (moves quick). Fantastic Texas style BBQ rivals some of the best we’ve had like Hometown in NYC. Brisket, ribs, Jalapeño cheddar sausage, pulled pork, pork belly burnt ends (wow), all spot on flavors and no dryness in sight.
Enjoyed Phuket Cafe overall, but probably not as much as I hoped. I think I prefer sister Eem (below). With that said, I would come back for the fish salad and Panang curry with beef. The signature Paella was a little off. Way too much Socarrat and flavors just didn’t pop. Sides, smaller dishes were just ok, and I didnt care for their Sticky rice/mango interpretation. Pure Thai Cookhouse spoiled us forever.
September 2023 Post
Portland Oregon doesnt have a particular cuisine that I know. But for a city the population size of Staten Island, NY it has probably the best concentration of great eats per capita in the US. With an amazing array of restaurants and over 500 distinct food carts, trucks, and even double decker buses dispersed all over the city, you are within minutes away from great food no matter where you are. The challenges as a tourist is to sort all of this out and come up with a balanced plan. Heck, I had to quit online chess for a week for this. I think we did alright….
Lets start with the carts…
Sorbu
Went here straight after landing (after checking out McMenamins Kennedy School hotel – what a neat place). Sorbu is Tuscan inspired sandwiches recommended to me by a friend who lives in Livorno (Tuscany) years ago. A very nice combination of flavors, textures and quality homemade bread. Supremely juicy and crispy Porchetta. Eggplant with Torta di Ceci (Tuscan coast chickpea pancake) and Mozzarella was probably even better. These two are the menu staples while the rest rotate. If I have to pick one cart of the bunch, this is it. But the rest are not too shabby.
Bing Mi
Sexy name, sassy snack. I believe its the only pod (a cluster of carts) in the more upscale Northwest District. The specialty is Jianbing (“bing”), a Chinese crepe that was part of my Brooklyn food tours (RIP). I opted for the Chinese sausage and extra egg and this was a typical yet solid version. Got the crisp, flavor and spice level just right.
Bake on the Run
Indo-Guyanese cart in the new Lil’ America pod, though the cart has been around for a while and seemingly popular. We sampled a few items but settled on a lovely, thick Dahl, served like soup. Very rich, deep flavors that stay with you for a while. Really one of the better Dahls I’ve ever had.
Baon Kainan
Some of these carts like this Filipino cart serve different menus on different days and times just like restaurants. Baon Kainan brunch on Sundays may include Talongsilog, fried eggplant with garlic rice, veggies and perfectly cooked sunny side eggs. Or the similar Tosilog with pork belly. Just good ol’ solid comfort food. Even better is the sweet Ube (purple yam) rice cake. I’d come back just for this.
Tov Coffee & Tea
I believe that every city should have an Egyptian caffe inside a double decker bus. Tov is not a gimmick for tourists as the product quality is very important to the owner. The specialty here is a cold brew they make with cardamom and the various drinks they make with it like the “Nectar of the gods” with caramel. But just sitting inside the insta-bus is pretty cool.
The restaurants…
Petite Provence
This became our reliable morning delight as it was right near our apartment. Whether for pastries, eggy breakfasts or waterfall picnic supplies, namely Baguette with butter and jams.
Scotch Lodge
A four year old basement speakeasy/whisky bar, voted one of the best bars in the US by Esquire. Probably the most interesting drink menu I’ve ever seen with great inventive food. Although favorite drink turned out to be gin based, “Remain in Light”
Highlights were the house specialty Fried Brie, like mozzarella sticks on crack. Dill fries (dehydrated pickle seasoning) are like the perfect McDonald’s fries. A silky smooth Albacore crudo was probably our favorite overall. Skip the pastas and get more fries.
Kann
This elevated Haitian is one of the hottest tables in the country as of this writing. Making reservations was like reserving Taylor Swift tix, though if you time it right and got mad “refresh” skills, it’s doable. The national dish, twice cooked pork app is a must. The tomato, stone fruit and berry salad will make you rethink fruit salads.
Mixed feelings on the duck. Flavor and texture was there, and the bed of cane syrup was particularly addictive, but the leg and breast had widely different temps. Enjoyed it nonetheless, though it didn’t quite match the brilliance of the chicken. If you ever had good jerk in the Caribbean or elsewhere, this will be a revelation. I give this one three Habaneros. Speaking of which, just about every dish has it.
Eem
As a New Yorker, without knowing the full history, it seems like Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom is thew new Andy Ricker. Just about every Thai I considered is fully or partially owned by Earl. I strongly considered the latest venture Phuket Cafe, but opted to play it safe here. It’s essentially a marriage between Thai and Texas BBQ with “vacation drinks” to help with the consummation. Start with the awesome Pina Colada.
The white curry with brisket is one of their best sellers and I can see why. Beautiful, milky, well balanced curry with that smoky brisket. Same with the chopped brisket fried rice with plenty of socarrat action. Smoked pork Krapao is another winner. A sloppy fried egg but superb tasting pork belly. Very solid sweet and sour (and hot) boneless fried chicken thighs. Nothing wrong with it but not as distinct as the others.
Cabezon
Portland excels in so many things that you might overlook some important ones, like seafood. Since 2009 Cabezon established itself as a premier seafood specialist. Comfortable room with ample space between tables. Feels almost like old school in a new school setting. Other than perhaps the meh Blinis, everything was fantastic.
The basil and phyllo wrapped shrimp was superb. Beautiful Asian flavors from the Thai basil, glass noodles and curry sauce. The mussels were even better. While not the best mussels I ever had, one of the better mussel dishes, thanks to the fries soaking up the great sauce, beans, and bits of chorizo. It’s good size too, more of an entree.
The house specialty Cioppino was fresh tasting and just about flawless. The grilled Tomba tuna was nicely cooked but since it wasn’t seasoned much it needs to be eaten quickly before it dried. And this is not the time to overlook dessert. Get the Creme brûlée and a peach cake when in season and call me in the morning. Not too early.
I have to make this one brief. Got much on the plate this week. I cant even take the time to think of a better title, but this one is pretty telling once you understand. Kjun is a tiny, and I mean tiny, hole in the wall with a big soul in Murray Hill. The owner is Jae Jung, born in Seoul, trained in NOLA, refined in NYC as her bio so cleverly puts it.
Jung’s resume is one of the most impressive I’ve seen (August, Herbstaint, and all sorts of Michelined NYC establishments), and so is her cooking that naturally morphed into a Korean/Cajun mashup. Hence the name, Kjun. This is her first solo project. While we dont have a shortage of of Korean (especially in that area), nor Cajun, or even NOLA inspired Korean (Haenyeo in Park slope), I cant think of anything remotely like Kjun.
From the starters the Boudin Balls and chicken liver pate were particularly strong. Four explosive Schweddy balls stuffed with starch noodles instead of rice. The buttery and immensely flavorful pate that no one talks about might be the unsung hero. Soy marinated deviled eggs were fine but not as memorable as others. Same for the Okra Kimchi that got boring even as a side. The forgettable stuff here are only that because of the unforgettable.
All the larger dishes were solid especially the Jambalaya featuring a nice cabbage Kimchi action and juicy mixed meat. Beautiful clean flavors that stay with you for a some time. The fried chicken was above average, though I wouldn’t go as far as calling it one of the best in town as Pete Wells did. It was nicely marinated but a bit on the greasy side and too large to work with on such small tables. Sharing it for three required some planning.
We also enjoyed the cheesy grits with Andouille. Quite sweet for Andouille but it worked. For dessert we much preferred the Dalgona Banana Foster over their version of pecan pie. Think a Banana Foster and Tiramisu love child. You also get a free delicious probiotic drink at the end, and a welcoming starter bite at the beginning to get the juices flowing. Everything about the place is quirky including the stools.
Just to emphasize and help visualize, Kjun is the size of a small coffee shop. Wells jokingly compared it to a van, but its really not much bigger than a U-haul truck. The three of us got a round table that would normally be reserved for one or two. But not only we managed, I dont get a sense from reading reviews that its much of a problem for others. Perhaps most understand that its a small price to pay, and its part of the charm. This one is a major Go!
Kjun 154 E 39th St (Murray Hill) Recommended Dishes: Chicken liver pate, Boudin Balls, Jambalaya, Grits with Andouille, Banana Foster
A long overdue update to the original post, Cacio e Perfect. 7 years since opening, and 5 years since our last meal, not much has changed at Lilia. Its still one of the toughest Brooklyn tables, and the menu features the same grade A pastas that put Lilia on the global map. There are very few places in NYC that can rival Missy Robbins’ brilliance.
But if you cant reserve dont despair. Turn on “Notify” on Resy, and/or keep refreshing the Resy page on the day of. You can also just show up midweek early and get a table outside or at the bar. If none of this work, despair! But have a plan B just in case. That area is loaded with respectable plan B’s like Laser Wolf (can also be tough), Kokomo, Le Crocodile, and a good looking Frenchie next door to Lilia, La petite joie. I’ve been staring at their pictures of Steak au poivre longer than I’d like to admit, even to you.
Lets start with the “Almost”. In my not so humble opinion, the “cocktail snacks” are not of the greatest quality. The Prosciutto is basic, saved somewhat by the Parmigiano Butter. The signature Cacio e Pepe Frittelle should be renamed to Cacio e Sale. I’ve enjoyed this in the past, but this time it was just dry, and extremely salty. That leaves the House made Mozzarella toast as an ok choice early on.
Another disappointment this time was the Bagna Cauda. The dipping sauce is still tasty, but its almost like one needs to take a stroll at the Union Square farmers market before the meal, to see what vegetables are on display this time. Otherwise its the luck of the draw with this dish. Snap peas, carrots were fine, while fennel and celery should not be there unless accommodated by some chicken wings.
But those pastas. Mamma Mia! The pillowy goodness signature Agnolotti, as good as it is, is my third favorite pasta here. The Mafaldini is probably the best Cacio e Pepe interpretation in the city, with that profound Pink Peppercorn and perfectly chewy ribbons. But my favorite pasta here is the Fettuccine with lamb ragu. I’m just a sucker for a good ragu and this is as good and balanced as it gets. Unlike the raw fennel I mentioned before, the fennel seeds work so nicely with the lamb here.
A nice discovery on this evening was the Grilled Clams. Love the Calabrian Chili action here. Missy is not shy with the Chili, especially compared to most Italian. It’s the Ugly Baby of Italian food in NYC. Lilia is still a major go. Just skip the small overpriced stuff, and get straight to business (pastas, seafood, meats, and more pasta).
Eating With Ziggy 