Posts Tagged With: food

Pig & Khao – Dont Overlook Brunch

Posted on August 16, 2024 by Ziggy
Pig & Khao

Ah, brunch, my least favorite meal of the day. Its neither here or there, it requires drinking earlier than I’m used to (yes I have rules), and more than half of the days it doesnt even exist. On average I do brunch once every two months or so while for many Manhattanites and Brooklynites its a weekly routine. But as the saying goes, I don’t always do brunch, but when I do, I prefer something interesting like Breakfast by Salt’s Cure, any of these five, and now Pig & Khao.

Pig and Khao is one of those places where I avoided brunch for too long because the dinner menu is just so darn good. But upon further inspection, the current brunch menu includes P&K greatest hits like the best in NYC Sizzling Sisig, and Khao Soi. Not to mention the newest of the classics, the addictive Chili Pan Mee, one of the most satisfying bowl of noodles in NYC today.

Leah Cohen who spent years in the Philippines as a kid, and as an adult can cook Southeast Asian food with the best of them. She owes much of her success to her dad who she lost during the early stages of the pandemic. Being a contestant on Top Chef season 5 helped kick her career that includes a book and numerous Food Network appearances. She opened Pig & Khao in 2012, and Piggyback right before the pandemic.

While I cant make reservations at places like Laser Wolf, I Sodi, Raoul’s, and many more, its a small mystery how easy it is to reserve Pig & Khao. Even though its packed every time I go there. You get a sense that the vast majority of patrons are locals, but there’s an easy way to confirm this. 1400 Google reviews vs 175 Trip Advisor (mainly tourists). Compared to say Joe Allen (950, 1100).

Pig & Khao

As some of you know, Pig and Khao has been a staple on the Z-List from day one. Probably a top 3 in the entire city for me. But according to EWZ historians I havent written anything about it since December 2018. Not much has changed other than one particular dish elevating itself to the top of the ranking bypassing the awesome Sisig.

That dish is the mentioned Chili Pan Mee. A seemingly simple dry Ramen noodles with a sick pork ‘ragu’. Its incredibly well balanced with just enough pleasant heat. The slow poached egg probably adds more to the dish than the occasional crispy anchovy, but as a whole its pretty perfect. A must among musts.

Another must for brunch is the… wait for it… French Toast. You may be thinking, why would you ever order French Toast at a place like this. The answer is, think of it as dessert. Southeast Asian sweets are much less inspiring than the savory items IMO. We often leave places without trying any or disappointed that the sticky rice with coconut and mango isnt on the same level as Pure Thai Cookhouse. But leave it to the P&K crew to come up with a superb sweet French Toast with caramelized bananas and super addictive salted caramel sauce.

While not an absolute must like the others the Sissling Corned Beef Hash was better than I thought it would be. Once you mix the egg with everything else you get a killer peppery combination. And a good value at $18. With the dishes ranging from $15-20 the whole menu felt like fantastic value in today’s NYC. Stop laughing, Queens residents.

68 Clinton St

Categories: Lower East Side, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Cotra – An Izakaya Sensation in Gowanus

Posted on August 2, 2024 by Ziggy

June 30, 2025 Update: The more I try, the better this place gets. The north Brooklyn food scene is very strong at the moment, and Cotra is quickly becoming a top 5, if not top 3 for us and friends. Talking of which, it’s best to come here with friends, preferably not picky, in order to try more. Great bar scene all around the neighborhood for a pre/post meal drink. Though my favorite discovery this time was a Spanish market called Mercado Central on the corner of Third and Union. A nice selection of tinned seafood and other items, some hard to get.

The Addictive Cabbage is still that, but it will feel less so once you try the brilliant Sun Dried Tomato Edamame, and/or Spicy Cucumber. Something happened to the Okonomi Fried Potato that made me appreciate it much more this time. Maybe the crispiness, the sauce combination, or maybe hypnosis by the dazzling Bonito Flakes. I can look at them all day.

The Mochiko Chicken is still fabulous. The steak is better to share just between two, so I skipped this time. The Tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) is solid, but a little basic when compared to the rest. Perhaps the best discovery this time was a butterflied whole Branzino with the bones removed. Beautifully cooked, and a nice combination of complimentary items. As for drinks, try the Suigei Tokubetsu Junmai (Drunken Whale) Sake.

Aug 2, 2024 Post:

I’ll make this one short and sweet. This Izakaya in the very up and coming Gowanus is excellent. One of those meals where every aspect of the experience satisfied. From the ease of making reservations (a luxury in NYC), to the food, and prices. Paying $150 for two for a full service meal with my usual overordering these days is like going retro 2018. Happy hour prices on a Saturday night helped, but the menu is still fairly priced for NYC.

Opened just over a year ago by three friends with extensive cooking experience. A typical Izakaya menu with sprinkles of innovation and the execution of a high end French/Japanese. Its the type of fun extensive menu where I want to try every single dish. Being a “tapas bar” means you can try a bunch of small dishes, or mix in one or two large ones. The most expensive item at the moment is the Ribeye ($36). Have you seen the prices of high end meats in restaurants all over the city these days?

I have said it before and I will say it again. Gowanus is transforming into a force to be reckoned with. In neighborhoods as such you need to differentiate yourself in order to attract outsiders and become a destination spot. Its incredibly tough to simply rely on immediate area locals. “Lets go walk around in the Gowanus” is something almost no one ever said here. And if they did then the most likely reply would be “what is that”.

The food rundown…

Addictive Cabbage – True to the name. Yamitsuki (“addictive”) izakaya-style cabbage. Crispy, nicely dressed. It grows on you quickly, and tastes even better with other dishes like the fried chicken. Before you know it, you really cant stop eating it.

Fried Potatoes – With Bonito Flakes and sweet Okonomi sauce. A serviceable dish. Some may be surprised at the sweetness but it works.

Mochiko Chicken – Just what you would expect even in high end Japanese. Expertly cooked fried chicken with Harissa Mayo. Light batter, supremely tender, and juicy.

Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice – Very solid. Even though I was hoping for for better tuna/rice ratio there was plenty of flavor here, and I would order again.

Yakiniku Ribeye Steak – Perfectly cooked, well marbled Ribeye with Miso Scallion Butter (a bit chunky but fine). They keep rotating their steak offerings but I imagine they cant do much wrong with any of them.

Mrs Z wanted ice cream in Dumbo and my immediate thought was the excellent Miso Cherry from OddFellows. So no dessert sampling here, but hopefully this is the start of another beautiful relationship. Go!

Cotra
451 Carroll St (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Addictive Cabbage, Mochiko Chicken, Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice, Potatoes, Yakiniku Ribeye Steak, Branzino, Sun Dried Tomato Edamame, Spicy Cucumber

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

The Ultimate Chinatown Food Tour

Posted on July 30, 2024 by Ziggy

Since I still get food tour requests four years after quitting touring, I’ve been on a mission to find a solid alternative. A local who possesses the kind of knowledge, energy, and passion for NYC food, especially street food. Someone who will take you to places even locals dont get a chance to discover. A guide with an actual sense of humor, not the kind of dad jokes I shared with many of you.

I’m tempted to write “I’m still looking”, but that would be just another ego inspired bad dad joke. The fact of the matter is the entire Ziggy clan, including the food snubs, thoroughly enjoyed the Ultimate Chinatown Food Tour with Scott the other day. And in case you are wondering right off the bat, yes I paid for it.

Food tours is a subject near and dear to my heart. The reason I got into this business to begin with was that the offerings 10 year ago were quite poor, and I wanted to do something no one else did. Judging by the fact that I reached #4 on Trip Advisor (out of 250 experiences), I’d say it succeeded, but the market got saturated and commercial in a hurry. Even foreign based entities like Spain’s Devour are now offering tours in NYC.

As a guide, and one that took many food tours around the world (including Devour in Spain), I will share with you the formula. Food tours are half food, half location/places, and half guide! You need a fun and energetic guide, delicious and varied food, and places that come with interesting stories. The rest like history, general knowledge isnt as important (not that it was lacking here). With Scott its an easy check, check, check.

I’m not going to spoil this for you by naming any of the places. I think its best not to know much. But there were quite a few surprises even for someone like myself and my oldest that spends much time in the area. I can tell you that I had some exceptional Szechuan, fantastic noodles, and a delicious item at a place I frequent but never had it. On top, you get a good sense of the local cuisine breakdown that will help you understand what Chinatown is all about.

And doing all this with Scott is the icing on the cake. He developed a special rapport with the vendors, and even learned some of the language. Seeing Chinatown on your own or through a local like this is unquestionably night and day. Its not only the preferred way, but a potential highlight of your entire trip. But I would wholeheartedly recommend this tour to locals as well.

https://ultimatefoodtours.com/

Categories: Chinatown, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

Quebec City – The Good, the Great, and the Ugly

Posted on July 10, 2024 by Ziggy
Duck Ham at Buvette Scott

After spending weeks trying to understand Quebec City’s cuisine, you’d think after spending some time in the city, the answer would be clear. Strawberries, cheese, Poutine, Montreal Smoked Meat? When you start mentioning items from other cities, maybe the list isnt that long to begin with, or cloudy at best. It seems that most items listed are of the traditional variety, and are offered in very few places. La Buche, one of those “Sugar Shacks” is one of those, but it was consistently mobbed during our stay.

Quebec City is not known for anything specific that makes people travel over 500 miles as we just did. But we did find a seemingly up and coming food scene led by a plethora of ingredient driven, farm to tables that work with whatever is in season. So you may find asparagus, morels, strawberries, etc following you from menu to menu. And things get increasingly more interesting once you leave the old town…

The Good

Buvette Scott – An intimate, mostly delicious delight with the kind of service that feels like hanging out with old friends. A special of lightly fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with mascarpone and smoked trout. The signature duck ham is like eating duck butter. Mezzelune pasta stuffed with ricotta and topped with lobster, scrumptious and pleasing to the eye. Morels stuffed with chicken wing meat with aromatic veal and wine broth, and last asparagus of the season was the best of show.

Chez Boulay-bistro boréal – A classic in the old town. A comfortable room with a working A/C turned out to be a surprise luxury in QC. Lunch specials come with soup (excellent leek and potato on this day) or salad (nice seed action). Cavatelli with broccoli and local cheese was light and perfectly executed. Lean, flaky beef cheeks with a complimentary ratatouille is a signature here and I can see why. After the meal, exit through the other end via the hotel (that’s also where the bathrooms are) and check out the Bouley sweets store. Talk about eye popping stuff.

Le Clocher Penché – Choosing between an uncomfortably warm room and a room with no ambiance was not a good start. The appetizers made up for it more than the mains. Scallops with morels, easily top dish. The sauce is the reason to order the terrific bread. Shell pasta with oyster mushrooms and Pork chop were serviceable.

Chez Mag on Île d’Orléans – If there’s one tip I can give you besides booking the one “great” is circle the entire Île d’Orléans for strawberries, picturesque homes and lobster rolls. These rolls wont win any awards, but eating them with a side of smoked meat poutine in that picnic area is hard to beat. Standing on line and listening to the conversations around you is part of the experience.

Chez Temporel – Quebece City takes their brunches very seriously. The Croque Monsieur may look like something I would make, but did not lack flavor. “Brunch Plate” featuring the Frittata of the day and other goodies did not disappoint.

Boulangerie artisanale Epi’Fanny – Close to a religious experience for croissant lovers. Jambon sandwiches, not quite Le Petite Vendome level, but will make you at least reminisce.

Épicerie J.A. Moisan – The one store you should check out. All sorts of international items displayed in a smart way. We sampled some cheese and ended up with a creamy La Bete a Seguin to enjoy with a baguette.

The Great

Melba – Our top meal in Quebec City and it wasnt even close. Opened last year in the up and coming Saint-Sauveur neighborhood by a mega talented team of cooks. Thankfully the ties to the popular Battuto don’t include reservation difficulties. One of the joys of reserving in Montreal and QC for a New Yorker is that I dont have to spend hours finding a table.

Hors d’oeuvre as the name suggests are snacks here, so I recommend at least three for two. You can even let the waiter pick as we did. Just make sure to get the “Bikini Sandwiches”. Best Grilled cheese sandwich you will ever have, with zucchini and olives and more zucchini slices on top. You may also enjoy the Barbajuans, like skinny fritters stuffed with lamb and spices with homemade babaganoush as a dip, or Deviled eggs with lobster.

Mains arent too shabby either. A delicate lobster poached Halibut with the softest carrots and lobster bisque. As good as that was, it was bested by Guineafowl with potatoes, chard and a killer combination of sauces. The good selection of wine by the glass and the addictive buttery buns sealed it. Flawless to say the least. All considering good value as well.

The Ugly

Au Petit Coin Breton – Uninspiring pricy crepes with egg, ham and cheese. Nothing like a classic Breton Galette. The crepes at Baguette & Chocolat looked more like it. Much of the old town spots are for tourists.

The Prices – I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a city as expensive as NYC outside of the US. Even Montreal seems cheap in comparison. The high tourist to local ration in QC has something to do with it.

The Tipping – Quebec City’s food scene is having a moment, and so is its tipping culture looks like. I’ve been to Canada many times, but I dont recall ever feeling the need to tip like in NYC. With every machine starting at either 15% or 18% and finishing at 25% even for ice cream, tipping less than 20% felt odd.

Categories: Montreal | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Z-List Update

Posted on June 22, 2024 by Ziggy

Still trying to keep the list at 30. 4 in, 4 out this time. I tried to include the excellent Ulivo and a few others but I got too many such places especially Italian. Leitao is the most exciting new find this year, but the rest are not too shabby, and not exactly new discoveries.

Out

Danji – Closed for too long due to fire. Not sure when and if it will reopen
Cull and Pistol – “So crowded no one goes there anymore” – Chelsea Market in a nutshell today
Somtum Der – Nothing wrong with SD. Just freshening up the list with new(er) Thai
Jun-Men Ramen – No longer open for lunch on weekdays so havent been in a while.

In

Song e Napule
Leitao
Thai Diner
Claro

The complete list

Categories: New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Breakfast by Salt’s Cure – Clinton St for Locals

Posted on June 5, 2024 by Ziggy

I dont believe that a PhD in Mathematics is enough to figure out the exact amount of syrup required on any given pancakes. How often do we put too little, too much, way too little, way too much, especially if its something like Trader’s Joe’s frozen blueberry pancakes. And then there’s the butter. How much is enough. Its 2024, and I have plenty of life challenges on the plate.

And what kind of Syrup anyway. My Aunt Jemima daughters would rebel when we served anything else. For years we would put both Aunt Jemima and Maple syrup on the table. Until they both moved out, and we gradually got rid of AJ. But turns out, they eventually move back in, so we met them halfway. Yes to Nutella (especially during Matzoh season), but no to Aunt Jemima.

Gothamist

Turns out someone on the west coast figured it all out. In 2010 the first Breakfast by Salt’s Cure opened in LA, and the lines quickly followed. “Breakfast” is the spinoff to Salt’s Cure (sugar?), a popular LA brunch spot hailed for the item that was essentially spun off, the Oatmeal Griddle Cake. Chris Phelps, the brain behind this has been perfecting these “pancakes” since age two.

As you can see, these pancakes wont win any beauty awards. Maybe miss congeniality. But they are as good as any pancakes you’ll ever have. And they certainly dont need syrup. In fact its a “no syrup for you” policy in all four locations (two in LA, two in NYC). Phelp’s Oatmeal mix, available for purchase, includes the perfect amount of cinnamon molasses. Not too sweet at all.

I’ve been passing through the lines at the West Village location for many months now. Coming at 9 am on a Sunday meant a 10-15 min wait. By 10 am it was more like 30 mins. Once inside you order and pay at the counter, and wait for them at your table. You have the option of various flavors like banana and blueberry. I was partial to the Banana with nuts, while the rest of the family preferred the original.

The combos add eggs and sausages to the mix, but even those items are not your typical diner variety. The eggs whether soft scrambled runny, sunny or over, are perfect. With regular pancakes and a dollop of syrup, eggs usually need to be completely separated. The sausages are more like thin eastern European cutlets. Not a bad thing. I went for the pork, but there’s also chicken and chickpeas (like a falafel cutlet I suppose). The saltiness of the sausages compensate for the lack on the eggs.

While tourists, rightfully so, wait for the pancakes at Clinton St Bakery, locals these days go to Salt’s Cure. While the pancakes at CSB are indeed good, I think much of the flavor comes from their warm Maple Butter, and the pancakes arent really as unique as Salt’s Cure. According to the hard working EWZ historians this is my first (and probably last) Breakfast post. Which means its an obvious Go!

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

A Perfect Day of Eating in Montreal

Posted on May 31, 2024 by Ziggy

A long weekend in Montreal, after an 8 year hiatus produced a tail of two eating days, and one painful reminder. Never trust hotel employees for food recommendations. Locals, especially in large cosmopolitan cities, may not be familiar with their own food scene. But they are trained to answer this question based on various factors such as “other tourists like it”, and will often sound very convincing. After a mediocre first day where I was winging it with an assist from an overzealous employee, the planned second day produced much better results. While this day is not exactly how my day went, its mostly based on it.

Start the day with a Montreal bagel from one of the institutions in Mile End, St-Viateur or Fairmont. Just try to forget everything you know about NYC bagels and keep an open mind. Its really nothing like it, and comparing them is like comparing apples to toasters. They may seem bland and sweet, but you might appreciate the light and airy texture. Try the sesame with cream cheese. Do you know what they call cream cheese in Spain? Philadelphia! Just the kind of unrelated tidbit you’ll only see on EWZ, but very useful in cocktail parties.

The one time I tried both of the institutions, I got luckier with St-Viateur over Fairmont as the former was right out of the oven. But you cant go wrong here. The one big positive about this bagel is that you dont need to spread a pound of cream cheese to be able to taste the cream cheese. Conveniently right next to Fairmont, you can get good coffee at Caffé Grazie-Mille where regulars enjoy telling the owner about the daily pictures they get from ex girlfriends.

The cool thing about these bagels is that you dont need a nap now and you can resume eating within hours. And what’s a better place to do it than Jean Talon Market. This is just a spectacular market, especially in August when its corn season. Peaches and Cream corn will be the sweetest corn you will ever have. But you will encounter all sorts of worldly artisanal items throughout the market. And if you never had ground cherries before, this is a good time to try if in season.

It’s lunch time and I will cheat for once and give you options. Its my blog and I’ll cheat when and how I want to. Option one: The Katz’s of the north, Schwartz. Like bagels, even if you are very familiar with NYC style Pastrami you should try this. First, its an institution. Second, the smoked meat is pretty darn good, especially if you get it on the fatty side. Third, you can sample Poutine here too.

Lunch option two: Portuguese Chicken. Its not as popular as smoked meat among tourists and guide books, but its arguably a better option IMO. If you live in NYC, you can find really good Pastrami and even Montreal smoked meat (Mile End in Brooklyn), but its very hard to find fast casual Portuguese chicken grills like Ma Poule Mouillée for example. The chicken is perfect in every way. Crispy and juicy in all the right places, and brushed with that salty, spicy Peri Peri that even makes the fries taste amazing. You also got Pastel de Nata, and of course Poutine.

Its finally nap time. Do you nap on vacation, or even at home? If yes, I’m jealous. Last time I took a nap was one of the best moments of life. It ranks somewhere between the birth of my second, and the day Mrs Z lost her voice. But first, if you are staying at the old town, or just visiting, pop into Cafeterra for excellent berry topped pastries and solid coffee. Opened fairly recently by a Ukrainian couple.

That leaves 4-5 hours till the highly anticipated dinner at Bouillon Bilk. The food scene here is quite vast and that’s what draws me to this city. Much of the rest is not wildly different than NYC. There are options galore here, but 13 year old Bouillon Bilk is a classic in the making. While prices have increased substantially since my first visit 8 years ago, its still affordable compared to NYC once you factor CAD to USD conversation. The smart, ingredient driven 5 courser is $100 CAD currently. And the a la carte menu isnt terribly expensive. Not a bad day, eh?

Categories: Montreal | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Txikito – Just Basque a Move

Posted on April 3, 2024 by Ziggy

Whenever someone asks for Spanish Tapas recommendations, if its not in Chelsea it doesn’t enter my mind. Just like Thai restaurants in Hell’s Kitchen, there are mysterious forces that attract some of the top Spanish talents to the neighborhood. As you may know, we are fans of Z-List long timer Tia Pol, but you also got the excellent Salinas, Mercado Little Spain, Casa Dani, El Quijote, Socarrat, and some others. Txikito, smack in the middle of them all, might just be the most important of the bunch.

A 15 y/o in super competitive NYC is approaching legend territory. It’s one of those places Ive been wanting to try for years, but somehow other mysterious forces prevented it, until an impromptu visit the other day. Impromptu and popular places as such means some luck involved. With my Islanders finally winning an important game the other day, and Mrs Z asking me to buy a lottery ticket now that the jackpot is over a Billion (as if 900 mil is pocket change), I might actually do just that.

Two open bar seats had our names on it, though we were asked not to linger for more than two hours. Not only perfectly fine with us, but I had another reason to leave before it got dark. I was sporting new sunglasses and left my regular glasses in the car. We were reminiscing about our California road trip ages ago where I lost my glasses somewhere off route 1 and had to wear prescription sunglasses for the last two days of the trip. I kid you not, the same evening I lost them we heard “I wear my sunglasses at night” on the radio. Yes, it was radio times.

Txikito is Basque, but as with so many ethnic places trying to introduce us to a specific cuisine, it feels more Spanish than Basque. Other than some of the famed Pinxos like Gilda (a skinny homage to Rita Hayworth), the famous Basque cheesecake, and the occasional very Basque mammoth Turbot, my eye didnt spy much Basque. It spied a Russian salad, found all over Spain for some reason. But dont get me wrong, I like this menu. Like a lot…

I dont recall ever eating Octopus Carpaccio this good. A place just outside Taormina’s (Sicily) old town comes to mind but thats about it. Silky smooth buttery perfection. A signature thats been on the menu since 2008. Another winner was a hearty plate of Spanish white beans with shrimp and mussels. The accompanied bread helped us scarpetta the heck out of it.

The expertly cooked Cochinnilo (suckling pig) was exactly as expected. Just crispy enough outside and supremely tender and flavorful inside. Its an ugly looking dish until you start digging in. I care for you readers, just not to the point of videotaping everything like other influencers. But cutting this in slow mo is a droolworthy exercise. Love the Frisée addition but wish it came with another item like potatoes.

The only thing I didnt care for was the pricy white Asparagus special with scallops. Initial bites were good but that one-tone sweetness got boring in a hurry. La Viña-esque cheesecake was satisfying. Esque means “we tried” here, although its been a few years since our visit to La Viña, San Sebastian where the cake was invented. Salinas nearby also serves a fine version.

Other than me still trying to figure out whether I like standalone Spanish red Vermouth, I think I covered everything. Nice atmosphere, smart decor. Although I didnt get a very good look as putting my sunglasses was like announcing “weirdo at seat 12” to the staff. I dont think I’ll wait another 15 years to Basque another move as I do want to try the rice dish and the rest of the menu. Maybe just stay away from the specials

Txikito
240 9th Ave (Chelsea)
Recommended Dishes: Octopus Carpaccio, Beans with shrimp and mussels, Cochinnilo, Cheesecake

Categories: Chelsea, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Raoul’s – A Date with Quality

Posted on March 28, 2024 by Ziggy

When I was 5 years old the world was a crazy place. Wars, chaos, crime, Froot Loops, drugs dominated. 50 years later not much has changed. But much did. I’m sure you all had similar conversation on the differences between growing up then and now. By the time I was 5 I already had my fare share of vodka that I mistook for water, and cigarettes that I did not mistake for something else. A 5 year old smoking after a rough day in day care is unimaginable now.

I may have told this story, but I recently lost some weight. I thought it was good news, but apparently to doctors its a red flag. I was bombarded with questions including whether or not I smoke(d). I answered semi-jokingly that I smoked when I was 5-6. But the elderly doctor didnt quite get the joke, or heard me properly, put me down as an ex-smoker and sent me for a chest MRI and other tests. I will never joke with doctors again. I thought I learned that lesson during the vasectomy.

When I was 5, opening a restaurant in Soho was much different than today. In the 70’s Soho was a gritty neighborhood, full of starving artists, factories, and deserted streets. Even in the 80’s when we moved to Brooklyn, we would steer clear of that area. But somehow two brothers from Alsace, France managed to open a place that not only survived 50 years, but booked solid every night these days.

Just like the nearby Minetta Tavern and a few other places, stepping inside Raoul’s is like stepping inside a movie set. Not surprisingly it was featured in movies/shows such as The Departed, and Sex and the City. Its history reads like a Netflix series, with at least one episode about discovering Thomas Keller, and some about the many famous artists that used to hang out there.

Raoul’s is an old school French bistro, with the atmosphere and art to match. Much of the art hasnt changed in many years, and we got a good look at it from our booth right under its famed nude painting. They are known for the Steak au Poivre, a secret bar burger that’s no longer a secret and martinis. Their classic Aviation cocktail made me shop for the ingredients as soon as I got home. I need a larger house for my bar.

As much as I complain about pricy bread courses, I almost always get them and enjoy them. No exception here with the Sourdough Baguette, Country Wheat, room term butter, sea salt, and the kind of radishes you stare longer than usual at the supermarket.

As far as Pates go it doesnt get much better than Raoul’s Pate Maison. French Ham and Compté Beignets with truffle remoulade were explosive little schweddy balls. Probably truffle oil in the remoulade but it works here. Maine Lobster Tortellini were supremely flavorful as well but too small of an app to share for four. The Jambalaya Risotto was another outstanding dish.

But the reason I took my family here was the Steak au Poivre. Not quite the tenderness and flavor of say, a Claro Tenderloin, but this was a decent size, and better than some I had in Paris. Perfectly cooked meat and just peppery and creamy enough. Pictured is a half. When I grow up I would love to have a whole one.

Bread pudding was solid NOLA-esque, but also too tiny to share, even though we were too stuffed anyway at this point. The profiteroles would have been a better option. My oldest gave Raoul’s a complement very few outside EWZ, and Hungry Onion (where some ex Chowhounds hang out) understand. “Foxface quality”

Raoul’s
180 Prince St (Soho)
Recommended Dishes: Bread, Pate Maison, Beignets, Tortellini, Jambalaya Risotto, Steak au Poivre, Bread pudding

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , | 1 Comment

Claro – From Oaxaca With Love

Posted on March 12, 2024 by Ziggy

Fuck congestion pricing. There you have it. The first EWZ post that starts with the F word. I felt it was time. For many of us, driving to the city is expensive as it is. We have to pass multiple bridges and tunnels, some of the most expensive in the world, just to face yet another hefty tax for the privilege. And no, there’s practically zero chance that I will rely on a bus late at night, during bad weather and other situations. We’ll most likely still make plenty of trips as my oldest lives there, but I may need to pivot.

That pivot will require to rely more on less discovered neighborhoods like Gowanus, Brooklyn. Go ahead, I’ll wait while you Google it. You can be a 10 time visitor or even a local that never heard of this neighborhood. Although its tucked between the more famous and eatery heavy Park Slope and Carroll Gardens, you only find yourself in industrial Gowanus if you go to Whole Foods. It looks and feels like a Red Hook extension. The kind of neighborhood where dads playing ukuleles in front of babies in a brewery isnt out of the ordinary.

Add Claro as another reason to go. From the outside and in it looks like your typical rustic Red Hook/Gowanus neighborhood joint. But the food tells a different story. It may sound like a cliche, but if there’s one thing I learned in Mexico City last year, was that Mexican food in the US is quite different than Mexican food there. You expect it but dont realize the extent when you spend time there. Claro, although Oaxacan by nature, is closer to the full service CDMX experience than any place I’ve been to in NYC.

You can visit Claro a dozen times without realizing it boasted a Michelin star until last year. The prices do reflect higher end Mexican, but that was also the case before the Michelin star. Many restaurants like Rezdora, Jeju Noodle Bar often change menus and even decor to try match Michelin expectations, but you get the sense that Claro just wanted to stay the same. Maybe that’s why they couldnt maintain the star.

Masa, Mezcal, and superb raw materials is the name of the game. A concentrated menu that will make you want to bring friends that appreciate good food. While picky eaters can manage, there’s not enough variety to satisfy. Though the excellent Mezcal lineup and based drinks can keep them entertained.

We started with Tuna Tostada, the only dish I’ve had here before. The tuna was bright and flavorful, as were the rest of the ingredients. But its closer to a refreshing salad than a Tostada. Not a bad thing. The Garnachas de Venado was the first moment of brilliance. Two thick fried corn tortillas shaped like small hockey pucks, topped with braised venison. But what made the dish was the accompanied Curtido (fermented cabbage). Another winner was the outstanding Black Bass with green mole, topped with smoked Trout roe, and another beautiful concoction of Brussel sprouts, cabbage, and more.

But the piece de resistance was the Mole Negro. As the hefty price ($68) suggests, its more of a dish for two. It featured a succulent Bone Marrow with fried mole that added a nice texture, and a perfectly cooked short rib sitting on a bed of their famous mole. But it was the ugly duckling, a sad looking Tenderloin that was one of the best cooked meats I’ve had in a long time. It comes with Negi Onion (fancy for scallions), and their excellent tortillas. Their Masa is made in-house from imported Oaxacan corn.

Arroz con Leche with pineapple was the perfect finish to a rare flawless meal. Not too sweet, and not the soupy variety. As for drinks, you got your Mezcal pairing options, but we opted for Mezcal based drinks which were both well balanced and superb. Jungla – Milk Piunch for me, San Pascualito Rey for her. Go!

Claro
284 3rd Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Tuna Tostada, Garnachas de Venado, Black Bass, Mole Negro, Arroz con Leche

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