Posts Tagged With: food

24 Hours in Lake Orta

Posted on December 16, 2014 by Ziggy

In this food filled itinerary, the lake I like to call Lago d’Orta was not part of it initially. But guess what Mrs Z found out when she first Googled Piedmont and looked at the first images that came up. Text conversation:

Mrs Z: hey r we going to lake orta

Me: Neh!

Mrz Z: really?

Me: Thanks for ruining the surprise. Of course we r

As they say “Happy Wife, Happy Ziggy”

We enjoyed a full day after landing at MXP around 9 am with the lake only 45 minutes away. Picking up the car from Hertz was a breeze, waiting for the GPS to find a signal was not. How the Software Developer inner Ziggy did not think about restarting the unit is something only the Bill Gates gods can figure out. Either way, Google maps to the rescue. The car this time by the way was rather filthy. And I dont mean in a cool slang sort of way. We got a dirty car. One of those Fiats that turns off at traffic lights and requires sweet talk to move up a hill. But we made it in no time, and what we witnessed was something way better than what any of these images (and Google’s) capture

But there was another surprising aspect that contributed to this little one nighter even more than the lake itself. Food! As in the fairly new Agriturismo il Cucchiaio di Legno where we also spent the night. The Agriturismo is not on the lake so no lake views, although the lake is a short 5 minute drive. I imagined that once I pass by the lake side hotels of Orta San Giulio I would have hotel envy, but that did not materialize. I was very happy with this choice and can not recommend it highly enough. And if you are staying elsewhere and enjoy good food you should at the very least make it for dinner. Sure you can have a nice meal at the 2 Michelim Villa Crespi or at Locanda di Orta which just got a star a few weeks ago, but for something more “homey” and casual it doesnt get much better than this Cucchiaio.

My type of menu here. the absent kind. You eat what they prepare that day, and boy did they prepare plenty. We indulged in a fine plate of Salumi, delectable little salmon bites, and an only in Piedmont shocking Syrian soup. Then came the “Welcome to Italy” green Risotto, and a homemade Fusilli with pork shoulder that served as another reminder that big flavors can come out from these unassuming simple dishes. A juicier than juice hen with potatoes, and an even juicier veal cheek sealed the deal before we heard those magic words we’ve never heard in a restaurant before. “Would you like some more” A 10 course feast for a mere 25 Euros. Considering how delicious everything was, it was like a bank robbery. We reminisced about a meal in Coimbra, Portugal as perhaps the only one that beat this value.

They also provided a very nice picnic basket for us for lunch that we used on the picnic tables of the Sacred Mount of Orta overlooking the lake. Just the two sandwiches in there worth the 10 € per person tag, but there was so much more. The hotel room was very spacious and modern, with a loft in case we have guests (you never know) or Mrs Ziggy gets mad at me for packing only shoes with holes (like I’m supposed to inspect carefully before packing). You also get a nice patio facing the back yard. The whole place is so serene during the day you can hear a lung collapse. I was surprised to see it run by 3 young girls, and the cook responsible for that wonderful feast, Luigi, is 28 years old. There must be a law that all young chefs in the lakes region must be called Luigi (ie Luigi of Salice Blu in Bellagio) and when they reach puberty they need to change names. Makes no sense if you ask me.

What else did we do besides eat and inspect shoes. We Spent some time in the Sacred Mount. Quite a stunning setting overlooking the lake, surrounded by it pretty much. Its a series of chapels depicting the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, from chasing goats as a child, to chasing goats as an adult. I like goats as well but in a different way. He apparently loved animals according to my friend. The place was nearly empty, and extremely quiet. If someone plays Doodle Jump down in Orta San Giulio you would hear the doodling. The lake views from here is what you mostly see on Google images. There are picnic tables by the parking lot, and I cant imagine a better setting for a picnic.

The town itself Orta San Giulio was so much more pleasant than I thought, that we didn’t feel like taking a boat to the island and instead just wandered all over town. We spent more time than Mrs Z liked in one particular deli with a chatty French owner where we sampled some salami and over 25 year old balsamic vinegar before we bought “Rafi”, the little truffle we carried with us the rest of the trip. Rafi was a good sport, vacuumed wrapped in rice and all. Update: Rafi is dead. Unless the guy made a switcheroo on us at the last minute, the truffle just did not have it by the time I used it a week later. The much anticipated dinner with our truffle at home turned out to be a simple Linguini with butter.

In short, Lake Orta is another gem that most Americans never heard of. And on this day at least I was happy that that was the case

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: Agriturismo il Cucchiaio di Legno, Best food in Lake Orta, food, Lago d'Orta, Lake Orta, Travel | 4 Comments

Espoleta – Turkey Wishbone Produces More Tapas

Posted on December 14, 2014 by Ziggy

I panicked! As I often do in situations like this. Whenever the opportunity for a quick wish presents itself, I normally panic and wish for something that I already have or something that emotionally stable Middle Aged Americans should not be wishing. So when I was given a crack at the Turkey wishbone a few weeks back, instead of wishing something more meaningful like good health for my family, a healthier college savings account, or an unlimited supply of Poo Pourri, I wished for Tapas. I’m not even sure what it means, nor I recall what I was drinking. I just panicked.

But the wish was granted when I was invited to the launch party of Espoleta, a new Spanish tapas and wine joint in NoHo. Yes my friends, Mrs Z and I continue to move up the NY social scene at a furious pace. Espoleta means Wishbone (ha!) in Spanish. Former tenant Forcella means Wishbone in Italian. Coincidence? I think not. Both sides of the Wishbone are held by Giuilio Adriani, pizza master of Forcella, now running the show at Espoleta. But that’s not the only big name there. Suenos fans can finally come out of their Tapa hibernation as Sue Torres is consulting here. I was told she’ll be in the kitchen once or twice a week.

Chef de cuisine, Francis Peabody, the famous “American physician born November 24, 1881”. Wait that makes no sense, googling some more… Well, not finding much, but Ariel Lacayo, the manager once voted Best Maitre D in New York City by NY Mag says Francis Peabody is a Daniel, and more recently Le Bernardin veteran

Since this was more of a party with mass produced food, we only got a small taste of what Espoleta has to offer. We munched on various Pintxos, Tapas and Paellas. Japanese squash, jamon, artichoke with manchego, various croquettes, Shishito peppers and more. My favorite was perhaps the Goat Empanadas with raisins and salsa verde (top). Excellent Spanish wine here, too excellent perhaps for me to remember to note it down.

Espoleta, with its big names, looks very promising and is one to watch. Check it out peeps.

Espoleta
334 Bowery

Menu: http://www.scribd.com/doc/249293660/Espoleta-Menu

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: Espoleta, Espoleta NYC, food, restaurants, Tapas NoHo, Travel | Leave a comment

Antica Corte Pallavicina – When Life Gives You a Pig

Posted on December 12, 2014 by Ziggy

When we were young and down on life, my mama had this strange saying: When life gives you a pig, you make Culatello! Black pigs preferred, raised in Emilia Romagna or Lombardia she proceeded to explain. You take the muscular side of the back legs, aka the “heart” of the prosciutto, cure it, put it inside a pig’s bladder and let it age in the moldy caves and cellars somewhere near Zibello, north of Parma. As close as possible to the foggy Po river. “Its all about the Terroir” she proclaimed. And only then, it can be designated Culatello di Zibello DOP, essentially Prosciutto on crack. Prosciutto so prized, it has a different name. Just don’t tell anyone that Culatello means “Little Ass” as it may take away some of that power from the name, she warned. Or maybe she was talking beets and borscht, I may be confusing things.

Last month we spent a magical day and night at Antica Corte Pallavicina, the most famous producer of Culatello di Zibello out there. In fact, “You can use the bikes to bike all the way to Zibello on the bike path” our trusted host told us. Done, and doner, assuming spotting Zibello inland from a distance was close enough for our own aching “little asses”. But if I would have to pick 5 memorable moments on this trip, riding those bikes along the Po on that day, with those views, passing farms, and with the sun Arrivederciing in front of us, was one of those moments. Minutes earlier, we visited their famous black pigs, snacked on their own Strolghino (salami), Parmigiano-Reggiano (also aged in their cellars) and drank their own bubblies while sitting on the antique couch in the antiques filled room, watching their antique dog and antique cat very closely (Mrs Ziggy isn’t fond of animals and some humans. Ok, most humans)

For Massimo Spigaroli the journey started over 20 years ago, when he bought the 14th century castle with his brother. A castle and farm that saw Massimo’s great grandfather as a tenant (after he worked for Verdi who lives nearby). At the time it was more like ruins, after years of heavy beatings from Po flooding. Nowadays, its a farm, 6 room hotel, a Michelin star restaurant, and a major Culatello producer. Tourists from all over the world flock to the Corte to see one of Emilia Romagna’s greatest attractions, the cellar of dreams. Dreams as in if you want them to cure one of those Culatello’s for you, you are dreaming my friend. And you will keep dreaming for the next 3 years (waiting period). But meanwhile you can check out the tags of the black pig Culatello hanging in the front. Armani, Rene Redzepi (Noma), Alain Ducasse, Francescana (“my friend” Massimo Spigaroli tells me if I understood correctly), Prince Albert, Prince Charles, Prince Ziggy, Prince. We all have our dreams as you can see!

As for the meal, other than a few minor hiccups, it was exceptional. The restaurant has a fancy feel, but at the same time its unpretentious and comfortable. You feel like a guest of the estate rather than at a dining establishment. The combination of antique, modern, floor to ceiling glass windows, and the overall spaciousness felt unique. This is not Farm-to-Table. This is 50 yards-look-outside-your-window-what-do-you-see-to-Table

Once you settle down you are greeted with the homemade butter, Grissini, and a Cuban cigar box filled with delicious bread. I love a good bread and butter, especially when the butter is of perfect spreadable temperature. “When in Rome…” you go for the “Podium”, three Culatello aged 18, 27, and a black pig aged 37 months sitting at the top of the podium lip syncing the Italian national anthem. The 18 month was silky smooth, sweet, and in a bizarre way reminded me of delicious small dried fish. While the 37 was brinier, and packed in a lot more flavor. The 27 was somewhere in between.

Basic but fantastic Tortelli with ricotta and spinach. And an even better al dente Risotto crowned by green beans and surrounded by three gentle sauces that somehow worked nicely together. Very high degree of raw material throughout, though it didn’t quite work with the rabbit. Great ingredients, looks fantastic but the rabbit “cubes” a bit dry and uneventful. For the white Ox they add another large table to yours and carve the beast right in front of you. It was expertly cooked, on the rare side with great flavor, if not a tad too cool. The Ox plate included an exceptional supporting cast of mushrooms, various garden veggies and a fine tasting zucchini topped with Parma cheese and breadcrumbs.

For dessert we were lucky to be joined by our new friend who lives not too far away. And as expected, marvelous desserts here, especially the “Baba” rum cake which was just about the best rum cake I ever had. The top notch Mousse, was a great finish to a magical evening

Massimo Spigaroli is very proud of his place, a celebrated one Michelin star. While in NYC Michelin stars are distributed like candy (I got one!) in Italy there are standards that must be met. I normally dont pay as much attention to service as others do, but it was hard to overlook this kind of hospitality. Since we had to leave early to a dairy producer and couldnt stay for breakfast, the staff prepared a box filled with more Culatello, and various homemade goodies. In a food oriented trip such as this, Antica Corte Pallavicina fit the itinerary like a glove

Categories: Emilia-Romagna, Italy | Tags: Antica Corte Pallavicina, Best restaurants in Emilia Romagna, Culatello, Culatello di Zibello, food, restaurants, Travel | 4 Comments

Root and Bone – As Simple as ABC

Posted on December 7, 2014 by Ziggy

Before I tell you more about this gem in Alphabet City (the last of the Manhattan neighborhoods that hasn’t received a hip name), there are a few developments in my personal life I would like to share with you. Well, more like events really, not so much developments and not so interesting to the average reader Really. Two milestones in one day (yesterday) that are fairly significant in one’s growth as a parent and more importantly as an American parent. The first event was taking my youngest daughter, who is suddenly obsessed with hockey, to her first Islanders game. Only those readers who experienced this can understand the magnitude of this thrill. Especially those sport fans who never produced sons experiencing this a bit later on.

One can argue that the second event is even more significant, as it made me connect with the American people like never before. Everyone, including tourists should do it at least one time during the holidays to show solidarity and patriotism. We are Americans! Some of the strange things we do, like tipping and brunch, may seem different to some foreigners but this is who we are, and this our culture. You dont question it, just like I dont question taking my shoes off in other countries, and not assuming that all those wonderful little plates they give you in Portugal when you sit down at a restaurant are free. I’m talking about, you guessed it because what else could it be, wearing my first Ugly Christmas Sweater. Although all I have is a spray of Poo Pourri to show for as my consolation prize in the ugliest Sweater contest, it felt great I tell ya. You see I realized that there’s really no such thing as a fashion failure anymore. Any fashion faux pas is either brought back by hipsters at some point or makes a big comeback once everyone in the world agrees that its ugly. Or like in this case, its both! I’m thinking perhaps I should hold on to those 80’s Hawaiian shirts after all, before Mrs Ziggy cleans the ‘hers and hers’ closet again.

Remember that little girl I was talking about earlier? Other than hockey, she particularly likes mac and cheese and fried chicken. So when I was looking for a place that serves both last Sunday, a return to Root and Bone was a no brainer. I first tried their much hyped bird in the summer, not too long after they opened, but I may have been under some heavy Barolo influence which makes me like everything. This time it was for brunch, affectionately called in my house and every other country, lunch! But we don’t question, remember? Southern homey soul food by two Top Chef veterans that look more like “The Bachelor” veterans, via Miami. Famed Miami Beach Yarbird’s lose is NYC gain. Well, Yardbird probably didn’t lose anything, its just an expression people.

We started with Grandma Daisy’s Angel Biscuits. If you ever see something called Grandma Daisy’s Angel Biscuits on a menu and neglect to order it, you are an enemy of America! These were light, airy and awesome, and once dipped in the gravy-like Honey Chicken jus, awesomer. Benne seeds (fancy for sesame) and salt on the side for you to dip may be there purely for esthetic reasons, as I didnt feel the need. Terrific Mac ‘n’ Cheese topped with more biscuit and featuring elbow pastas that will make you donate the elbow pastas in your kitchen cabinet to charity.

I feel like there’s some sort of a chicken renaissance going on in NYC at the moment with both Rotissarie and the fried kind. You got the new Bird and Bubbles, The Habanero in Ma Peche, Somtum Der’s version, and so many other notables all over town. The fried chicken here should at least be mentioned in the same discussion. Its sweet tea brined, and dusted with dehydrated lemon magic powder that gives it that extra zesty tone. Although, the dusting was more liberal the first time around (perhaps too liberal) there was no flavor lose this time. The chicken, featuring no greasiness whatsoever is just a solid, juicy fried chicken, with flavors enhanced by the accompanying spiked tabasco honey sauce. I preferred to sprinkle it on the white meat only. And in true southern style we paired it with the Buckwheat Waffle that came with Cheddar and Whiskey Maple Syrup

Having eaten the chicken before, perhaps the most interesting item for me was the so called Trumansburg N .Y. Stone Ground Cheese Grits (top). They came loaded with corn and ‘pimento cheese’, a spreadable hybrid of cheese and Pimiento (cherry) peppers. The entire dish is a beautiful medley of textures and flavors. And in a city filled with mediocre desserts as it seems as of late, the sticky toffee pudding with whiskey sauce and beer flavored ice cream was perhaps the best finish I’ve had this year.

Update: The Poo Pourri works! Dont think I need it honestly, but it works. I may have to bring some to some of my coworkers. You know who you are!

Root & Bone
200 E 3rd St
$$$

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: Best Fried Chicken in NYC, Best restaurants in East Village, food, restaurants, Root and Bone, Root and Bone NYC, Travel | 4 Comments

Trattoria La Coccinella {Serravalle Langhe} – Game Changer

Posted on December 2, 2014 by Ziggy

November 2024 Update

Original Post:

I’m having a writer’s block of the worst kind. Earlier this evening I burned some of my more useful fingers on both hands in a freakish oven accident, so the process of typing is hampered a bit. Lets just say DO NOT USE OVEN MITTS BOUGHT IN PUERTO RICO GIFT SHOPS. I’m strongly considering unfriending the person who gave it to me on Facebook. Only problem is I’m not sure exactly who that person is, and I dont have a Facebook account. It hurts almost as much as listening to Ariana Grande in the car, a condition that millions of dads these days are suffering from at the moment. Why would anyone buy cheap oven mitts anyway. Oven mitts got only one job really when you think about it. Like the hideous looking car bumper protectors you see on the roads used to protect and preserve bumpers from scratches, purchased by the same people who can no longer wrap their remote controls in plastic due to public pressure. One job: PROTECT YOUR HANDS FROM SECOND DEGREE BURNS. Failed!

This is extremely unfair of me to write about my damaged precious fingers in a post about one of our favorite, most talked about meals in recent memory. But I’m also using the blog in a way as a diary in case I’ll have to write a book at some point. I was told that that is the next step for a successful food blogger. The only minor hurdle is the “Successful” part, and learning how to write properly. Or spell!

La Coccinella was particularly memorable in many ways. Starting from the spectacular drive to Serravalle Langhe from Barolo where at some point the sudden silence from Mrs Z meant that she wanted me to concentrate on the road and not look at all the beauty surrounding us. I remember clearly the majestic Lady of the Snow church in Monforte D’alba that we found on the way. The Israeli couple we met in the parking lot of the restaurant. The drive to Serralunga d’Alba after the meal that made me want to go to the bathroom, partly out of fear but mostly just because I needed to go to the bathroom. But most of all it was the meal and the hosts, the three stooges, Alessandro, Massimo and Tiziano, who dished out one magical plate after another. The anticipation, and a quick glance at the menu meant cancelling all post meals appointments. We are staying for another marathon.

I opted for the truffle menu. Three dishes shaved with white truffles resting comfortably on the table. Carne Cruda, while quite exceptional, I couldnt help but compare it to the artistry in Priocca the day before which was one of the top dishes of the trip. A lone Raviolone stuffed with potato and egg, oozing with greatness. At this point I realize this is perhaps the most flavorful truffles of the trip. The truffle finale was the outstanding egg with Bra cheese fondue. Truffles and eggs – could not get enough of them during the trip

The menu also features antipasti with the option of trying all of them. Guess what option we chose. Salmon, shrimp and cheese ball set the tone nicely. A lovely Porcini tart followed. When Mrs Ziggy eats anything with mushrooms that means you just did something special. Perhaps the most interesting thing we ate here came in the form of an onion. Upon arrival, the first signal from the brain is that there’s no conceivable way this thing tastes good. Its an onion! An onion that is baked with salt then filled with chicken liver, baked some more, sprinkled by some more salt and Voila! One of the most unique and delicious dishes of the trip. Lastly an outstanding veal terrine with a supporting cast that would make Woody Allen envious: An onion marmalade and a veggie tart.

Mrs Z was also especially taken by the Plin stuffed with cheese. Surprising big flavors coming out of these unassuming little things. The leaning tower of Porcini with potato was nice and meaty, though could have used a touch more seasoning. Hazelnut/chocolate cake was the perfect finish to a very enjoyable meal. One of a handful marathon meals we did during this trip, and one I would love to repeat. I can not recommend this one more highly. Well, judging by the start of this post I guess I could but choose not to.

Trattoria La Coccinella

Via Provinciale A3, 5, 12050 Serravalle Langhe CN

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: Best restaurants in Langhe, Best restaurants in Piedmont, food, restaurants, Trattoria La Coccinella, Trattoria La Coccinella Serravalle Langhe, Travel | Leave a comment

The Hell’s Kitchen Sandwich Awards

Posted on November 28, 2014 by Ziggy

15 years ago when I first got familiar with the area, I couldn’t name two decent sandwiches. Well, I could actually, but they would not have made this list today. Times, as they say, “They Are A-Changin'”, as the area is suddenly flooded with all sorts of well crafted sandwiches that even tourists should target. If I miss a big one here, please share. But as far as I know these are some of the best and most unique sandwiches in Hell’s Kitchen and in some cases NYC. And to make it just a little bit more interesting, I gave them awards!

The Dolly Parton Award- IL VIP at Sergimmo Salumeria. A most excellent sweet sandwich featuring robust raw materials. Prosciutto Crudo from Parma, homemade mozzarella, Arcadian mix, EV olive oil and a lovely fig spread from Casa Giulia. On the sweet side of things like Dolly’s smile, and so not for everyone.

The Bill Clinton Award – Philly Cheesesteak at Shorty’s. Given to a most outstanding sandwich that comes with the occasional strange urge to pull down your pants even though the thing looks sort of sloppy and unattractive. Get it the way it was intended. With Whiz, “Wit” onions, and mushrooms. I’ve had it in Philly and this is the real deal

The Me Love You Long Time Award – Dave at City Sandwich. A great all around sandwich with top notch ingredients that is best enjoyed slowly with a glass of wine or Manischewitz. This beauty features an ample amount of fresh minced sausage, chili pepper, garlic, olive oil, melted mozzarella, and peppers, and the Portuguese bread from across the river cant be beat

The Oom Pa Loom Pa Award – Banh Mi Cha Ca at Co Ba 53. Given to the best sandwich with the least amount of syllables. Historically given to a Banh Mi. Hanoi-style fish, usually means “Catfish” or “I cant believe its not Catfish” Swai, Basa, or other Catfish-like creatures, with fresh dill, onion, mayo, jalapenos, and house-made pickles on a French baguette. Not only easy to pronounce but tastes great

The Kim Kardashian Award – Pig’s Ass Sandwich at Casellula. Nuff Said!

The If You Build It They Will Come, And Come Again, When Weather Permits, Because Its Too Far Award – Pork shoulder at Court Street Grocers (Gotham West Market). Given to a most outstanding well crafted sandwich that is a leader in its kind but a little bit out of the way. Pork shoulder confit, mayo, provolone, broccoli rabe, pickled red peppers inside a terrific Caputo (Brooklyn) hero. If you ask me, I think the name of the award is too long, but hey I don’t make the rules.

The You Say Shawarma, I Say Shawarma Too Award – Shawarma Sandwich at Azuri. Award given to the best Shawarma!

Note: Azuri is a 2 time “No Soup For You” winner. Recent reports of Ezra smiling or even happy are most likely greatly exaggerated (I still think its gas) but I can no longer put him in that category. Everyone seems unfortunately friendly these days or faking their unfriendliness for gimmicky purposes. “Hey look at me I’m so unfriendly, tell your friends, start calling me the Muffin Nazi, bla bla bla”. Ezra was a natural!

The Breaky Bad Award – Bench Girl at City Sandwich. Given to the best breakfast sandwich. This one features Portuguese Alheira sausage, Grilled Onions, Spinach, Melted Mozzarella and Olive Oil. Available all day, every day. Now lets see if they change the name to Breaky Bad from Bench Girl before any use of online petitions. Bench Girl sounds boring and borderline insulting if you ask me.

The Carlos Danger Award – Pig’s Head Cuban at The Cannibal (Gotham West Market). Given to a great sandwich that is especially selfie/twitter/instagram worthy in all its glory. Pigs head terrine, ham, gruyere, mayo, pickle. Perhaps the hottest sandwich in Hell’s Kitchen at the moment.

The Barack Hussein Obama Award – City Sandwich. A lifetime achievement award given to the top overall sandwich maker. Last year’s Miss Congeniality winner takes top honors this year. A Pioneer and a leader in the Sandwich making business. Well deserved! (ps. I’m expecting this mention on the window at City Sandwich in no time. As my mom used to tell me “if you got them, flaunt them”. A bumper sticker “I got a sandwich award on EatingWithZiggy will do as well)

Big Big Mazal Tov to all the winners!

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: Best Sandwiches in NYC, Casellula, City Sandwich, Co Ba 53, Court Street Grocers, food, Hells kitchen, sandwiches, Travel | 4 Comments

Sale Grosso – Is This Bologna’s Top Seafood Option?

Posted on November 23, 2014 by Ziggy

Reports of the seafood demise in Bologna may have been Sale Grossly exaggerated. You like it? I thought of that line while shaving this morning, which is were I do most of my deep thinking. Whenever I say that for some reason the usual reply is “You should think about growing a beard”. With a beard not only I would not be mistaken for Russell Crow anymore, but I would also be single and unemployed. My full time job involves solving software related issues and very often the solutions come to me when I shave. It also helps me with the various daily First World Problems like figuring out where I left my iPhone, what to have for lunch, who really shot Jr, and why are my shoes wet. Turns out the shoes were wet due to exhilarated excitement of some nieces and nephews playing hide and seek in the closet the night before. Yes, they get excited and they pee in your shoes.

Also during shaving I normally devise the all important action plan of where we’ll be eating seafood on our next trip. We normally find ourselves craving seafood at some point of any trip, especially in Italy, regardless of our proximity to the sea. La Tellina in Sienna was a nice find last year, while Le Mani in Pasta in Rome was less successful but hit some marks. In this case, I figured after a week of heaviness in Piedmont and ER, Bologna would be the place for seafood, and all signs pointed to Sale Grosso. Hidden in some alley in the university area, and with some locals never even heard of it, the “hidden gem” cliche comes to mind. In fact some locals even turned up their noses at the idea of eating seafood in Bologna

I don’t mean to set you up for another feast as it actually turned out to be a rather light lunch, at least for our vacation standards. Burratina (Burrata) with Bottarga (salted dried tuna roe “sticks”), shockingly good, and grows on you as you are nibbling on it. Bottarga is not something you normally see on NY menus. The Burrata was oozing with richness and went very well with the salty dried tuna, and the olive oil used was especially noteworthy. Octopus, simply grilled, tender and absolutely delicious, arrived with some of the best tasting grilled veggies we had on this trip.

Rolled breaded fish stuffed with raisins, pine nuts and other unidentified objects came with expertly cooked Broccoli Rabe and creamy tomato water. Perhaps the dish of the day, which included a very nice dinner later on. Spaghetti with Seafood was perfectly al dented with generous amount of fresh shellfish and fish. This is what every basic Spaghetti with Seafood should taste like.

Smiling, friendly owner, slightly overdressed for the occasion, unless we all were underdressed. Wife who wasnt there is the brainchild of the Mediterranean inspired menu. She’s from Bologna but with southern roots. And the cook during lunch was from Puglia where some of the lunch dishes get their inspiration from. Nice and comfortable room, popular with locals and nearby university students and staff. Looked like we were the only tourists there. While the lunch menu showed plenty of market freshness and creativity, during dinner things pick up a notch. Check out Sale Grosso guys

Now if you excuse me I need to go shave in order to figure out what to wear tomorrow. Ciao!

Categories: Emilia-Romagna, Italy | Tags: Best seafood in Bologna, Bologna, food, Italy, restaurants, Sale Grosso Bologna, Travel | Leave a comment

When in Barolo.. You do Grissini

Posted on November 20, 2014 by Ziggy

Barolo, arguably Italy’s grandest, most celebrated wine, is produced in the magnificent Langhe Hills in Piedmont. Visitors from all over the world flock to the Barolo zone, and the picturesque hamlet that bares its name to see where the magic is made. You got the wine museum, cork museum, wine tasting galore in every corner, wine, wine and more wine everywhere you turn in the entire region. You arrive through Barolo vineyards, leave through Barolo vineyards, and make wrong turns on purpose as you drive through more vineyards. So naturally, here we are, flying 4000 miles from NYC to Barolo, risking our lives while maneuvering our little Fiat up and down mountains through regional roads built for smaller Fiats. All that for.. you guessed it… Breadsticks!

Before the trip I arranged to meet with Daniela Cravero, who along with her brother and son, operate an artisanal breadstick bakery, Fratelli Cravero, smack in the middle of the town of Barolo. Its a tiny little village of 700, and something tells me the Craveros would be happy to teach anyone without any special appointments. But before I begin to tell you about this little jewel, I need to explain the importance of breadsticks to Piedmont and Italy

The story begins just like many other food stories begin… with constipated leaders (Like David Ben Gurion leading to the invention of Israeli Couscous). It started in 1675 with the young Victor Amadeus II from the House of Savoy who was suffering from all sorts of digestive ailments. His mom asked the court physician if there’s anything he can do, and the physician recalling his own digestive issues as a child, remembered his mom feeding him some sort of cracker. So he then asked the court baker (How do I get one of those – Craigslist?) to produce something similar that is fully baked and voila! The breadstick is born, young Vito poops regularly and becomes king of Sicily, then king of Sardinia, winning some key battles. You could say if not for breadsticks Italy would have been part of Austria today. Another duke of Savoy was addicted to the stuff, not so much to eating it, but crushing them with his hands while watching opera. Must have been extremely annoying to the season ticket holders right next to him. Even Napoleon upon discovering Grissini, set up a special UPS service to ship them from Turin to Paris daily.

These days, step inside La Torre in Cherasco (above) and the first thing you notice is not only a bouquet of Grissini with other bread occupying the entire side of your table, but the same setup on every empty table (empty because you are a tourist eating before everyone else, partly because you are terrified of your GPS and its pitch dark terrifying shortcuts). No flower bouquet can compete with this welcome, or as yummy. The same Grissini then follow you all over Piedmont tables and well into Emilia Romagna. The tradition is as strong as a Barolo. While here in America the closest we have to any sort of breadstick tradition is that of Olive Garden, who bastardized the breadstick just like we did with the Bologna, Alfredo sauce, and everything else Italian.

The process at Cravero, the areas only Grissini maker, starts early with the dough preparation. The kneading, the mixing with hazelnuts, rosemary, hot peppers, or other carefully selected ingredients as the Craveros have been doing for the past 35 years. We witnessed them prepare the bulky strips, applying the final touches to form the correct density to prevent any bubbles during the rise. Then.. long lunch, coffee, manicure, nap Italian style, letting the dough rise and do its thing for four hours. After that the dough is flattened and fed to a machine which produces the small strips which are then easily hand stretched before its bake time. All that in front of drunk onlookers fresh from their wine tastings, peeking through the window.

Actually, there doesnt seem to be much rest for Daniela and the boys. The store is not going to run itself, the exquisite truffles Daniela showed us, will not smell themselves, and there’s more baking to be done. Traditional hazelnut cakes, cookies, “Floglie” crisps, and Tajarin pasta. We were particularly fond of the crispy “Maize Biscuits” which we are still enjoying at home 3 weeks later. Cant make it to Barolo? You can find some of the products throughout Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Lombardy shops, and in popular local restaurants like Villa Tiboldi, and the Slow Food darling Consorzio in Turin.

The legend of the Grissini is alive and well, and the tradition can be felt in Barolo and throughout Piedmont. Whether the story of young stud Amadeus and his determined mom is true or not, here’s to Grissini, and here’s to all the moms out there.

http://www.grissinicravero.com/en/

Courtesy of Cravero website

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: Barolo, Breadsticks, food, Fratelli Cravero, Grissini, Piedmont, Travel | 2 Comments

Louro – Another Fun Option For the Village People

Posted on November 17, 2014 by Ziggy

November 17, 2014 Update:

Another fantastic meal at Louro a few nights ago. The place hasn’t skipped a beat since it opened two years ago. Sometimes you get caught up with all the sexy new openings and forgetting about the current neighborhood spots that continue to hit on all cylinders. The place is packed every night seems like, with the ultra talented chef Santos still doing his thing. In addition to the constantly rotating seasonal menus, Santos continues his Supper Club tradition with the popular Monday night theme dinners like “Lobster night”, “Breaking Bad”, and “Breaking Bald” for those villagers suffering from Frontal Baldness. Ok, not really, but tonight they do have “White Man does Szechuan” which looks very interesting.

We tried a variety of items again including some of the old favorites, and on this night new favorites emerged. Like the tremendously flavorful Kimchi Fried Rice (below) which comes sizzling hot loaded with calamari, mussels, shrimp, clams, and egg juice poured table side for you to mix in. Plenty of pleasant heat and plenty of joy with this one. More great flavors came out of a simple Lobster soup from its clean, well balanced broth. And then came the Venison (below). Two medallions expertly cooked, rare, just slightly seared on the outside. Because venison is so tender and lean, cooking this more will result in eating two hockey pucks. It came with some pasta (looked like Cavatelli) as part of a groovy smoked onion jus. Only the why-so-bitter Broccoli Rabe stood in the way of perfection.

The chicken last time caused me to start seeing other chickens! On other menus that is. While this time the chicken was still juicy, tender, very nicely sauced and veggied (Yummy Yam and nicely cooked Brussels Sprouts), it was missing that perfectly crisped skin. Still a very solid dish overall. The Monkfish delicate tomato sauce and rice was replaced by a wintery bean cassoulet, and the Octopus Bolognese is still the same old hearty, rich Octopus Bolognese. One of the staples on the menu along with the Piri Piri Shrimp

This is just about the most eclectic, fun, constantly changing menu I know. Each dish is well crafted with great tasting sauces and veggies, and the missing “Sides” column almost feels refreshing, as you get plenty of “Sides” with each dish. Choosing what to order from this menu is as complicated as choosing the manliest umbrella on a rainy day. Do I go with the white circles, colorful polka dots, or black with pink piggies. Why cant we have a black umbrella like normal families

April 8th, 2013 Post:

My house smells of fish! It smells of fish for the past week now. And get this.. we haven’t cooked any fish in the past 2 weeks and so don’t have the slightest idea where the smell is coming from. Wish it would smell of curry or cumin instead. Don’t get me wrong, I love fish, but I don’t want my house to smell like it. Same goes for chicken soup. When Mrs Ziggy starts making it early in the morning its as if a guest just came in, said hello, threw up, and immediately left without cleaning his mess.

What does it have to do with Louro? Absolutely nothing. I’m not even gonna make a clever transition with this like “we had to escape the house and go eat at Louro” because its not really true. I’ve been planning this meal ever since I saw the Best Dishes of 2012 thread on Chowhound. I just had to try that much talked about gnocchi dish since my family sort of became gnocchi junkies over the past few years.

5 month old Louro by David Santos is another great addition to the West Village dining scene. At first glance inside I was a little surprised at the upscale diner look. Booth tables right by a long bar. It gets less diner-ish in the back however. The food is sort of Portuguese, Italian, American and as usual we tried quite a few items. Here’s a great, good and ugly breakdown.

The Great:

Piri Piri Shrimp – Really enjoyed them. Not as good as Aldea’s preparation and similar dishes we’ve enjoyed in Portugal but cooked and seasoned very well nonetheless. Not too spicy so the kids were able to enjoy as well. Love anything Piri Piri

Octopus Bolognese – So good. All about the sauce. Tiny bits of octopus and goose pancetta? (sort of a Pancetta goose blend I suppose). Anything would taste great with that sauce including car keys. Thankfully the waitress convinced us to get more bread.

Monkfish – Delicate, perfectly textured and absolutely delicious. And with that light Portuguese tomato sauce and rice, YUMMO! I couldn’t stop eating it. Until I tasted…

Roast Chicken – Wow! I did not want to order it. But wife and kids wanted to try and I’m glad I lost that argument. I suppose I forgot that the Portuguese can crank out some delicious chickens. Comes with a nice rye berry risotto and spinach, but that chicken was very flavorful and that skin was so perfectly crisped I could eat just that.

The good:

Seafood fritters – Enjoyed them. Not bad at all. Like those seafood beignets you get in New Orleans

House Made Tortellini (top) – Pleasant, light, filled with Nettles among other things. Not very memorable but tasted good.

Striped Bass – A popular dish here normally with a snapper instead. Bok Choy, shiitake, coconut ginger broth. Very pleasant dish and well done. Thank you baby Jesus for sending me a family that doesnt eat mushrooms

The Ugly:

Gnocchi Romana – Ahhh, the irony. As often is the case the first thing I wanted to try was the least favorite. I dont think its the same dish the chowhounders were raving about. The cream sauce just tasted like a regular cream sauce to us (they call it permesan foam) and the gnocchi was semolina but had the texture of tiny breakfast potato cubes. I just kept trying it just to see what I was missing until me and the kids finished the plate.

The menu OCD chef keeps changing the menu and it did not match the menu on their site at all. Overall a very good meal and something to keep in mind when visiting the village. The wife much preferred the food here over future Michelin star Aska the day before. Check out Louro readers. Both of yous

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: food, Louro, Louro nyc, NYC dining, NYC food, NYC restaurants, restaurants | 3 Comments

Locanda Mariella {Calestano} – The Perfect Meal

Posted on November 15, 2014 by Ziggy

Why are we here? How did we get here? What exactly made Kim Kardashian famous? When is an egg no longer an egg? I feel like starting this one like Anthony Bourdain starts some of his shows, with deep, philosophical nonsensicalness that grabs your attention and never lets go… until commercials. Its the perfect prelude to what’s to come, whether its “The best soup in the world” (Vietnam – last episode), “Best Duck Feet I ever had” (Beijing), or “Best Meal I ever had” (French Laundry). Because somehow “The Perfect Meal” or “Best Egg Dish I ever had” would simply get lost in the shuffle of this blog if I dont start with a deep Kim Kardashian question. Makes sense? I thought so

What makes a perfect meal? When you are hard-pressed to find any little detail that worked against your enjoyment of the meal. From the food, the host, the wine, the room, the environment, there is absolutely nothing negative I can say about Locanda Mariella. And while I usually ignore any imperfections in meals I greatly enjoy, its hard not to notice when everything goes right. Sure someone may be bothered by its location, 1 hour south of Parma, in the North Apennine Mountains. But to us the location just added to the fun and intrigue. Especially considering it allowed us to visit the town of Felino, the home of “King of Salami” where the Italian version of Rick Steves tried to sell his entire Salumeria to us. And on the way back, it was the magnificent Torrechiara castle which deserves its own post.

Mariella is Slow Food at its finest. In a way it reminded me of the one man show of Roberto in the village of Montisi, while the two got almost nothing in common except for their true Slow Foodness and that passion to deliver to you the finest ingredients available to them. It almost felt like you are visiting a three Michelin star chef who retired in the mountains in the middle of nowhere and cooks to those brave and willing souls simple mountain food

Alloooora! At Mariella all this melodramatic stuff came from sampling just 5 dishes, with wine pairing and dessert, with each dish making me shake my head with hand gestures Andrew Zimmern style. Mariella had a white truffle menu, black truffle menu, and a regular menu that included black truffle filled classics which we mostly took advantage of. Did I use “Allora” there correctly? Two hours into the meal I still did not have the heart to tell Mariella that we don’t speak Italian. She explained every single detail of the meal in Italian. My entire Italian is solely based on menu Italian, so when I wanted to ask if the egg was baked at some point, I said “Umm.. Uovo..Al Forno?” Mrs Ziggy had a “Fish Called Wanda” moment, and now I occasionally have to speak Italian to her

Started with a very nice Strolghino salami with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. And continued with some of the staples on the menu, potato Sformatino with pumpkin cream, and polenta with cheese fondue and black truffles. Both outstanding! A great start aided by a fine Sauvignon Blanc/Gewürztraminer blend from Le Fate Furbe (Tuscany). Mariella, I find out later from my host in Parma what I suspected all along, is a great sommelier

Two sunny side up eggs with black truffles would have been the best egg dish I ever ate even without the truffles. It hits you like a smack in the face as soon as you taste the whites. So rich, so creamy, so good I didn’t want to share. I believe with my menu Italian understanding that she blends cheese instead of butter with the eggs. A truly remarkable dish in every way, aided by black truffles which had more flavor than some whites we had on this trip. Gnochetti with light cream and black truffles, by far best Gnocchi of a few gnocchi dished we enjoyed on this trip. Mariella matched a beautiful Nebbiolo with this course

For the third course we shared another outstanding veal cheek with mashed potatoes (since we had polenta in the first course, she suggested mashed instead), along with a Voerzio Barolo 08. I say “another cheek” as this was about the 4th of the trip. Another thing we couldnt get enough of on this trip was Cachi (Perssimon). We like eating it and we liked saying it. Here it was a splendid chestnut mousse with a cachi purée, along with an excellent preserved sour cherries with ice cream

Simply Perfect!