Oh Anguilla, AngWilla, what took yer so long to call my name. I was more than Willa! to check ya out Anguilla, oh yeah! Ok, I don’t know what it means about my musical writing abilities but whenever I try to write something, I sound like sir Justin Bieber….who visited Anguilla a week ago or so btw. I’m jealous of Justin I must say. The dude is 21, and goes to Anguila on a whim, just like that. While I needed about 21 years to get convinced. “The beaches are not better than TCI”, “you need a full day of suffering to get there”, “you need to take a high speed ferry where even the seagulls throw up”. Turns out all the motivation I needed is United Airlines making it much tougher to get to TCI these days.
Anywho, let me tell you about Anguilla. But instead of boring you with a bunch restaurant reviews this time, I will bore you with a giant post about everything and anything Anguilla. Its the Everything Bagel of trip reports! Or something like that…
Getting there
I think the notion that one gets over time about the complexities of travelling to this island makes it seem more complicated than it actually is. Getting off the plane in St. Martin you are faced with a bunny ranch like lineup of high speed semi-private ferry representatives trying to lure you into their service… a $65 ride straight from the airport (a 5 minute ride to the docks) with the caveat that you need to reserve in advance (giving CC info online) or risk a full boat. The most popular and cheaper option however is a $20 public ferry ride which leaves at the same frequency as the privates, but requires a $20 taxi ride to Marigot that could take anywhere from 10-20 minutes depending on traffic (I always thought this ride is much longer). We opted for the public ferry there and back, and will do so again next time. Hard for me to justify the costs and efforts of the other options, especially considering we got to Anguilla before everyone else. If this would have been Amazing Race, we would have kicked some serious tuches. There’s also the air travel option between the islands which we briefly considered.
Car
You need a car here. Sure you can manage without one, but in order to take advantage of what the island has to offer, a car is necessary. Although many people happily do so, this is not the place to linger at the same place for a week like in Provo. Ronnie Bryan, a local celebrity, makes the entire rental process as smooth as can be through Bryan Car Rental. Pay from home securely via email, pick up car at the ferry terminal, drop the car at the ferry terminal. Other than driving to the great Hibernia for lunch, a map was not needed for us. Fairly easy to get around!
Beaches
Since Turks spoiled us big time with one of the best beaches in the world, this was not the time to settle. But we sort of did, but in a good way. Shoal Bay East is arguably Anguilla’s best beach. But besides a few shacks and some dining options there’s not a whole lot going on there dining wise, which is not necessarily a bad thing for many. Meads Bay was the perfect match for us. Although one of the busiest beaches (relatively speaking), flanked by two behemoth resorts (Viceroy, Malliouhana) we found it quite serene and underdeveloped enough, with the water spectacular at times. Not to mention close to many dining options. Then you have the option of Maundays Bay, aka Cap Juluca-ville where the serenity level takes on another meaning. You can request a tour of Cap Juluca while you there, and enjoy the beach by its main building. Or you can Rendezvous at Rendezvous Bay with a visit to the world famous Garvey’s Sunshine Shack. The shack alone is worth going. The most underrated beach however is perhaps Shoal Bay West. Tranquil, green, with some interesting wildlife around to boot on arrival. There are some more beaches, but I believe I covered the best ones. This is why you need to rent a car here.
Hotels
With one hotel stay under my belt, I’m not going to pretend I’m an expert. I dont quite get the bloggers who write about a destination like a travel concierge, even though they’ve just been there for four days. But here’s what I know. Shoal Bay Villas is the popular option on the east end as far affordable accommodations go, while on Meads you have Turtle’s Nest (with actual turtles acting as security) and Carimar showing exceptional value. The latter is the better looking building, but the former has a slightly better beach front. The newly refurbished Rendezvous Bay Hotel on Rendezvous Bay is gaining a lot of traction on the boards as of late. Then you have the Viceroy and Malliouhana, the behemoths flanking Meads Bay where I would personally not consider staying, but visit for a drink instead (Viceroy owns the best sunsets). For more intimate feel, there’s the world famous Cap Juluca, and to a lesser degree CuisinArt. Frangipani was a good match for us. Small, personable, attractive, even sexy (which is why we felt at home!) boutique hotel smack in the middle of Meads.
Dining
This is where things get interesting. We knew Anguilla has good food, but research elevated expectations even more (“Some of the best in the Caribbean”). I’ve already discussed some here, and here, and listed my favorite dishes here. While the end result was a successful one, the trip needed a proper finish in order to call it as such. There were some misses early on, but for the purpose of this post and the possibilities of the often off days, I will only touch on the highlights.
Sarjai’s – This turned out to be the best of the “Local” spots we tried. Not much of an atmosphere but the food more than makes up for it. Try the Creole Snapper with the addictive coconut sweet potato dumplings, or the scrumptious stewed goat. The crayfish here were the best of the trip. And while I didnt have it, the steak is an award winner.
Blanchard Beach Shack – One of many beach shacks on the island. Order, pick a picnic table and enjoy the marvelous views with your pager. Although they have various items on the menu, this is a nice choice for a healthier “fast food” type lunch. Try the Rice bowl with shrimp or Mahi.
Dolce Vita – Possibly the best Italian on the island, though it helps if owner Abbi is there to guide you with your order. The Gnocchi Gorgonzola and the Lasagna are the specialties. The latter is actually the reason for opening a restaurant in the first place.
Johnno’s – One of the coolest things about Anguilla is its music scene, especially on Sunday (“Funday”) afternoon. And deciding where to go on each Funday is not easy. But beating this venue with this musical lineup and the steamed snapper with Fungi combination at Johnno’s I imagine is not so easy. Note we only had one item here to eat, and it was that good.
Sunshine shack – The definition of a beach shack. You got the reggae, the beach (Rendezvous Bay), the man (Garvey), the grill, what else do you need. An absolute must!
Jacala’s – One of the biggest gems of the trip. Two Frenchmen, one in the kitchen, one on the floor, making all sorts of magic right on the beach. Its open for lunch, but I wouldn’t miss dinner. Great soups, heavenly Tuna Tartare, Risotto like no other (nice middle course to share). Table side prepared Steak tartare is oddly a main course but very popular. Not to mention the chicken of dreams, and the Panna Cotta. Go!
B&D’s BBQ – Essentially a popup on the side of the road. Very solid BBQ.. chicken, ribs, lobster, snapper, all served with Johnny cakes and sides. The slaw in particular was noteworthy. Very popular with the locals, and even restaurant owners (Tasty’s below) which is a big endorsement
Straw Hat – Great drinks, beautiful setting overlooking Meads. Nice Lobster Mac & Cheese, fish sandwich, tuna flatbread (in that order). Since we stayed next door, we spent most of our breakfasts here. And after cheating on a few other places, we concluded there’s no point to go anywhere else really.
Tasty’s – Quite a Tasty local spot by one of the islands best ambassadors, Dale Carty who is sent on critical missions oversees to promote island food from time to time. The signature item is the magnificent seafood salad. Other than a rather robbery lobster, everything was quite good here
Mango’s – I normally like to keep one night open and let the island sort of guide me to the right place. Based on conversations with locals, Trips Advisor forumites, and even local cooks, it became clear that Mango’s got the freshest fish on the island. You approach this one like you approach a Trattoria in Italy. Go with whats’s fresh, and what’s on special. Best snapper of the trip
Hibernia – If you are a foodie, and for some crazy, bizarre reason you’ve come to trust good ol’ Ziggy over the years… Go to Hibernia for lunch!
It wasnt easy this time to come up with 7, so I included a bonus dish. You can find it on the excellent Anguilla-Beaches site which is as official as it can get for the island’s site.
Sorry to say I’m not as enthusiastic about Lupulo after a recent visit. The place may still be a fun spot to grab a beer and perhaps some Piri Piri chicken, but the food is way too hit or miss and pricier than it should be. Also for a Saturday night I would expect it to be much busier.
A special of snails in garlicky sauce was bland and uneventful. The dry snails were impenetrable and could have used some French mastery perhaps. Shrimp Porridge with two perfectly cooked shrimp was quite good. No complaints about the shrimp turnovers either. Manilla clams and Brussels Sprouts were fairly forgettable. The one big miss was a lamb leg that was under-cooked while lacking any distinct flavors, accompanied by far (good) and some pickled veggies that didnt quite belong. The Frango chicken with Piri Piri sauce was still good. Nice and…
And just like that, its over Johnny. 2015 was yet another year of great eats, great drinks, and yes great chicken wings. I’m grateful! Grateful for living in the greatest food city in the world. Grateful for living with someone who not only supports this addiction but also willing to sleep with that thing. Grateful for the kids who will eat anything as long as its not made by mom and dad. Grateful for the friends and family. What will 2016 bring? Sicily! Other than that who knows. Most likely more chicken wings. Here are the most memorable meals of 2016…
Momofuku Ko (NYC) – Quite possibly the best meal we ever had in NYC was at this new Ko 2.0 location. An 18 courser, counter sitting, feast for all senses extravaganza. Perhaps the best, most unique dining experience NY has to offer at the moment
Bruno Pizza (NYC) – The best meal with the most unassuming name. While there wasnt anything earth shattering food wise, the entire meal from start to finish was just brilliant. And before Danny Meyer made the news with his no tipping policy, there was Bruno implementing its own spin on the controversy.
Aquavit (NYC) – Emma Bengtsson’s Chef’s tasting menu is quite possibly the most underrated tasting menu in town. The kicker here is that not only you are presented with tasty opulence coming out one after another, but you also got the anticipation and the arrival of one of the most Instagrammed desserts on the planet
Caicos Cafe (Turks and Caicos) – An odd mention considering we’ve been here over a dozen times, but still very much memorable in my mind. Two meals on every visit is our ritual these days, and both meals this past year featured all our favorites and then some. It just gets better and better.
La Taqueria (SF) – Strange for me to choose this one over the great meals we had at Cockscomb and NOPA. But this rather hectic light lunch was the one that gave me food envy like no other. I’ve been eating tacos and burritos for many years, but the carnitas tacos and Carne Asada Burrito here was like eating this stuff for the very first time. Cliche, but true.
Pulker’s Heuriger (Rührsdorf, Austria) – Our first foray into the Austrian Heuriger scene was memorable to say the least. A wine grower’s wine tavern that serves menuless, fresh, local homemade food. This one is right by the Danube, in the picturesque Wachau Valley. This is why you rent a car
Hibernia (Anguilla) – Still fresh in our minds, we are still awestruck by this one. A 30 minute drive East brings you to this foodie paradise. Brilliantly executed Asian inspired food with a French flair in an absolute stunner of a setting, surrounded by essentially an art gallery. A dining experience like no other
In my adopted home of Turks and Caicos (I’m not worthy) there’s a little famous place called The Conch Shack, nicely situated right on the beach. Its an island institution of sorts, appearing on various “best Caribbean shack” lists and quite popular with tourists and locals alike. The same fame also means an occasional “Tourist Trap” tag given by visitors with less than stellar experiences. A rather unfitting tag considering the establishment lacks the number one ingredient for a “tourist trap”… location. To get to the Conch Shack visitors need to hire a car, or take an expensive cab ride. There are other reasons why the Conch Shack is far from a tourist trap, like the constant need to protect a reputation, but the bottom line as far as I’m concerned is location, location, location.
Times Square and much of Midtown Manhattan is on the other end of the spectrum. As tourism continues the steady yearly rise, rents continue to skyrocket, and restaurateurs need to stay on top of the tourist game. In a sea of establishments that are strictly in the business of making tourists happy (think today’s Little Italy), there are plenty of reputable establishments that can’t afford to release clunkers out of their kitchens. Spots like Ma Peche, Marea, Betony may not satisfy everyone, but you get the sense they care about every single dish they put on the table. Up until last weekend I thought Quality Italian and Quality Meats were in that same company.
It took about 5 minutes to realize that I’m sitting in a slightly fancier, tourist filled Rosa Mexicana. Except that in RM I would be attended to initially without asking for it. For the 5 of us this evening, we opted to share a yellowtail crudo (good, though I prefer the flat skinny cuts over cubes), Ricotta (very good), a few pastas, one steak and the world famous chicken parm shaped like a 12 inch pizza pie.
The Bucatini & Clams was actually quite good. Covered by a rich, pleasantly peppery ragu with potatoes. But it comes with a price tag, $33, which is $11 more than the listed online price (at the time of this writing showing $22). Same price discrepancy with the Agnolotti and the rest of the pastas, not so much with other items on the menu
On occasion we do see price discrepancies between actual and online menus, but not quite to this 50% extreme. Perhaps I dont frequent mega touristy area restaurants often enough, but how the hell do they get away with this. Whether this is a mistake or not, after several tries I have not given any explanations from Quality Meats representatives. The closest to that was a “Oooh really, we’ll let our marketing dep’t know”
On top of that I was not even given the opportunity for redemption. A bone-in filet was dry and flavorless. Dont believe me? ask my 13 year steak aficionado daughter who picked up on that before I took my first bite. A recall a similar cut at Del Frisco’s nearby that was much more successful. At a place known for their ways with the meat, this was as shocking as the pasta-gate.
The legendary Chicken Parm has been talked about since QI opened. Bloggers, Yelpers, Eater, children books written about this famous dish. The cost: $64. The verdict: It tastes approx $10 better than Mrs Ziggy’s version. Its a decent bite initially, but the sweetness of the sauce takes charge before you even finish the first slice. And if the sauce is not sweet enough, among an arsenal of condiments to justify the cost, you also get honey.
As we say bye bye to 2015, let this post be the beginning of the new and angrier improved Eating With Ziggy. The reason I finally got to experience Quality Italian was because I was looking at something to eat before the new musical School of Rock and seeing the new tree which to me looks exactly the same as the previous 30. And if there’s one thing I learned from School of Rock is that when the time comes, sometimes, you just gotta STICK IT TO THE MAN!
Quality Italian 57 W 57th St Recommended Dishes: Ricotta
The triumphant post pandemic return to one of my favorite restaurants in the world. This time for dinner. Although we’ll be doing dinners only most likely at this point, you all need to experience this place for lunch. It’s an experience, even if yo are not the biggest fan of this kind of food. Though knowing many of my readers personally, chances of you not loving this menu is remote. Not too often we encounter a menu where we want to try every single dish.
Its an ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’ kinda menu, with some ingredient change but the menu stays the course overall. We usually start and end the same way. Foie Gras, smoked fish, with the brilliant rum raisin ice cream with aged rum for the finish. This time we felt a little naughty and added some prunes with chocolate (looks like we had it before). This is probably the only time we eat prunes other than.. you know.
Its always that middle course that constantly changes. This time a superb Wahoo, distinctly spiced and the accompanied sauce and sweet potato purée made this sweet potato hater appreciate sweet potato. The duck was another winner. Cooked pink but too dark to notice, with a gorgeous sauce and passion fruit spiked grilled polenta. It’s the sum of all parts like the rest of the mains.
Raoul has been dishing out Asian inspired French cooking before it was a thing in Paris. At around 37 years old, it is the longest running restaurant under the same management in Anguilla. It’s worth travelling to Anguilla, braving the Planes, Ferries and Automobiles, just to experience this place.
December 17, 2019 Update
Another epic meal at one of my Caribbean faves. Its a timeless menu in a timeless setting. We went for lunch again to mimic the previous experience and ordered pretty much the same dishes. The one addition was a grilled Mahi seasoned with turmeric and other seasoning. Its worth getting it just for the accompanied butternut squash, bok choy and shiitake gratin. It’s a sum-of-all-parts kind of dish with the mild seasoning letting the fresh fish do the talking. The trio of smoked fish and and the outrageous Foie Gras are still the strongest stuff on the menu. Impeccable attention to detail throughout. This is a major go for lunch or dinner!
December 27, 2015 post
While we were wrapping up another gruesome beach day on Anguilla (someone has to do it), we noticed something peculiar happening next door. A private table for two was being set up right on the beach. Toes in the sand, under the stars, with soothing gentle waves just steps away. Just you and the person you love. Oh how lovely, how beautiful, how romantic… say other people. For us however its the equivalent of being locked in an apartment for four days with only one channel showing Full House nonstop. Lets forget the fact that you are potentially wasting a meal on an island known for some of the best food in the Caribbean. Potentially! I’m sure there are excellent private caterers somewhere out there. The entire experience simply sounds torturous to us. The sand flies, the darkness, the isolation, wind blowing sand. Other people passing by going awwwwwe, taking pictures of you. Toes in the sand.. pretty sure can cause a fungus. And yes we’ve done it before, when we were younger. Not our cup of tea. Even the requirement of being close to the ocean during dinner faded for us over time.
On the other end of that spectrum, was our private lunch the next day at Hibernia. If “private” means alone, than I suppose this was private, but not in the usual Private Dining sense. Regardless, when we sit there and start bringing up our most memorable alone meals like at a small Portuguese wine making Quinta overlooking the Douro river, we are essentially in the midst of one of those meals. But when we start talking about some of our most memorable meals ever, perhaps we are in the middle of something more special than that. Describing the Hibernia experience requires me to dig into my emergency vocabulary vault and blow the dust of words like Umami, Mystical, Gorgeous, Divine, and Unicorns! At some point during the meal I thought the only thing missing from this experience is a unicorn or a beautiful little yellow bird. Moments later the latter shows up.
Hibernia is like one of those Thai temples I stumbled upon in my 20’s while drunk on the streets of Chinatown. Except with a setting that would require me to be clinically Manischewitzed to stumble upon one of those here. Pictures dont do this place justice, partly because its missing the sounds of silence, water, and wind chimes that work together like an orchestra. Perhaps a video would have been more fitting in this case. Mary-Pat who hails from Hibernia (ancient Greek for Ireland) & life partner Raoul have something special going on on the eastern end of the island. A 30 minute trek for most folks here feels like a pilgrimage, and to the rest that we met… “Hibernia who?” Its only one of the finest dining in the Caribbean
But none of this would have matter – the setting, the sounds, the serenity, if the food didn’t feature the same kind of wow factor. I’m not one that can be bought or lured into a cloudy judgment by things and friendly faces. So when I asked Mary-Pat for some recommendations, I got the best answer food obsessed individuals could possibly get. A puzzled look! The look of “This is not your average big menu tourist spot. If it wouldn’t be great, it wouldn’t be on the menu”. I saw that look at Jacala as well earlier that week. Here the menu consists of creative Asian inspired delicacies with a French mastery flair. “Fusion” is the most misunderstood F word in the culinary world. When its done right, it can be a beautiful thing.
You could not have written a better start to this script. One bite of that silky smooth homemade Foie Gras Terrine and its angels singing time. The accompanied red wine infused basil seeds was like a newly invented exotic fruit, the perfect compliment. A syringe gently sprinkling some sort of alcohol, like IV for alcoholics was the icing on this cake. There’s your Michelin Star right there. The trio of smoked fish was another revelation of sorts. And I’m just talking about the little salad in the middle of all that expertly prepared sea butter. It tasted like a crazy cross between smoked white fish salad and cream cheese. The lovely Mary-pat from Hibernia (sounds more mystical hence fitting) says its ginger infused cream cheese with horseradish, picking up some of the fishy smokiness. Holy smokes this dish was good.
After those apps, the basil coconut milk with rice noodles was more like familiar flavors in a time and place that made them brand new, if it makes any sense (makes perfect sense in my head). I eat a lot more Thai food than Mrs Z who enjoyed this tremendously. Though I failed to find anything wrong there other than the crayfish (did I mention the crayfish) in that broth getting a little mushy by the end. But that’s minor quibbling. Various fillets of fish in a perfectly spiced Thai style broth was another winner. Wonderfully lemongrassy and pleasantly spicy even on a hot Anguilla afternoon.
Rum raisin ice cream to a rum raisin freak like me was like eating it for the very first time. It’s the freshness and the rum stupid, that delivers an initial punch and makes you wonder what the fu#$ have I been eating all those years. Chocolate covered brandy infused prunes with chestnut ice cream was another solid finisher. (I was toying with the idea of bathroom joke here but I’m too much of a pro for this)
This Raoul dude is a keeper” I whispered to Mary-Pat from Hibernia before leaving with the kind of satisfaction we very rarely experience. The kind that adds that much more fuel to travel addictions
On the way to Staten Island’s Sri Lankan gem San Rasa the other day, I felt a little uneasy. I was quickly losing yet another argument in my head. I’m bringing another couple with me and I don’t have reservations on a Saturday night. That is because the young man on the phone (I feel a little old today) told me I don’t need to make reservations. And not because he knew who I was! “Are you sure? Its Saturday, prime time and its the four of us”. Emphasizing on the number 4 which can be very large on a Saturday night across the pond. “Yes, I’m sure sir. You don’t need reservations”. Fine! But if we come in to a full house and we don’t get a table.. oooh boy.. watch out. Sentences that begin with F words like “Forget this, we are going to Lakruwana ” will be flying out the door. Forgetting to take the young man’s name however was the mistake that lead to losing the argument in my head.
We show up to an empty restaurant! And I don’t mean empty as in a couple in the corner, and a family from France that read about the place on EWZ in the other corner (like last time). I mean there was no one there. “Should we leave and check out Lakruwana” briefly entered our minds. But this is after all, Staten Island’s lone entry in the coveted Z-List, and we made it this far unharmed. I’ve been to San Rasa for lunch, and dinner at the old location, but this was the first dinner at the new and improved San Rasa. Seeing it empty disappointed but did not totally shock me.
Without upsetting too many people, San Rasa is simply too far for most folks who appreciate good food. There are plenty of people on the island of Staten that appreciate good food, but not nearly enough to fill a quarter of San Rasa on a Saturday night. Staten Island doesn’t deserve and cant really appreciate something like this. Give em a buzzy American Italian trattoria, a pizzeria that serves chicken parm, a few Russians to satisfy the Russian communities, a few glorifies diners like Z-one, Z-two, [Name any chain], and the residents are more than satisfied. Like any residents in the burbs would I should add. For most residents the ferry area is quite a schlep (30-40 mins for many) and the true island gems like Sri Lankan Lakruwana, San Rasa, New Asha, and other gems like Enoteca Maria are unrecognizable names. The ferry area is almost like a Manhattan extension, albeit too far and arguably not interesting enough for Manhattanites.
But as often said on this blog, Sri Lankan food is the number one reason to stay after you take those selfies with lady liberty off the ferry. The new San Rasa is not only walking distance, but its décor is now much closer to the Sri Lankan museum-like Lakruwana. The old place was too bare bones and cold looking. Not that I mind when the food is that good. Sunday at all the Staten Island’s Sri Lankan is Funday. By that I mean, some of the best, most unique buffets in the city. For $12 you get a nice array of vegetable, rice, egg goodies, along with two meat specialties. Exceptionally great value and the only buffet I take my family.
But dinner is when the fun really starts. San Rasa turns out is under new management and new chef. While the empty house did not exactly look promising, the result was best San Rasa ever. Meet chef Lalith (one name like Madonna) who has taken the great chef Sanjay lead, adding his own bolder, spicier spin. You feel it right off the bat with the Mulligatawny soup. Unlike the prior Mulligatawny, this one is a little creamier, nuttier, spicier, and simply has more oomph. Thats the only starter I recommend. Save room for the goodies to come. Like the Lamprie, an old dutch colony classic that is the one must get here. The pictures here can only set the bar low, or prevent you from ordering it altogether. But that would be a mistake. Proceed with the hoppers and egg hoppers (not available on this day) before hitting the “Ziggurat” shaped String Hopper Kottu, all with your choice of your favorite curry. And with that my friends I’m announcing the addition of “Ziggurat” to my vocabulary. A fittingly bizarre combination of Ziggy and Borat (for those that know me too well).
Add the award winning Chicken Biryani to the list of musts here. It comes oddly decorated as if it just came from a Bar Mitsvah in the Staten Island Hilton. But I’m betting its the flavor profile that gave it a third place finish in a recent NYC Biryani competition. Mounds of crispy fried chicken on top of gorgeously spiced basmati with more succulent chicken inside was like no Biryani I’ve ever seen. And instead of dessert, finish with a fiery sizzling Deviled something. We usually do shrimp.
San Rasa – better and emptier than ever. “Ayubowan” – May you live long!
San Rasa 19 Corson Ave, Staten Island $$ Recommended Dishes: Mulligatawny soup, Lamprie, Hoppes, Kottu Roti, Chicken Biryani, Deviled Shrimp
“It’s not Sanjaya, it’s called Sarjai’s” I kept telling her all week. “You are thinking of American Idol”. It didn’t matter as she wouldn’t budge. Brains are on vacation too. By the 4th day I said good morning at 8 pm, to a cactus, without anything to drink of significance. And by the 6th I was calling it Sanjaya too. We needed to be on the same page to survive this brain freeze. We talked about Sarjai’s often partly because I wanted to break our #1 rule. But she wouldn’t go for it. First trip to foodie powerhouse Anguilla and you want to eat at the same place twice? That stands against everything our ancestors stand for. Our ancestors been to Anguilla?
On our first dinner in Anguilla I was like a 9 year old girl at a Justin Bieber concert. Forget the appetizers… the Caesars, the Capreses, the Crispy “anything but the F word, fri@#d” Calamari are just the warm-up acts that no one cares about. Bring me the Bieberlicious! 4 Mains, nothing less! “Oh thats just Meshugenah. My Xanax from the flight hasnt even fully kicked in yet”. 3 Mains! The fourth was the infamous Steak au Poivre, the most delicious thing on this vacation I haven’t had. After all, it comes with something called Aunty Joan’s Home-made Curried Fries. And if there’s one thing I learned during my travels is that anything with the word Aunty in it is a must get. Think about it. Have you ever had something that made you say, “this is great, but that aunty side suggests this Aunty needs a stint or two at Le Cordon Blue. Get rid of her”. Most likely never.
My first wife and travel companion believes there was a Welcome to Anguilla sign at the ferry entrance, and she has pictures to prove it. My eyes meanwhile were fixated on an Anguillan goat. That was my Welcome to Anguilla sign. That same night, the stewed goat at Sarjai’s was spot on. Tender, succulent, fatty in all the right places, like slow dancing with your mother in law.
The perfectly flaky creole snapper could have come just a perfectly flaky creole snapper with some rice and peas as in so many places like this, but not here. It arrives with delicious curried cabbage (buried under that fish – oh what fun) and coconut sweet potato dumplings that chef Darren’s grandma makes. Those dumplings grew on us in a hurry, and next thing you know we can’t get enough of them. A brilliant dish that set the bar nicely for many more snappers to come
And our first foray into the Anguillan Crayfish was quite a success. Crayfish in Anguilla is essentially spotted spiny lobster and has no resemblance to the sea roaches of New Orleans. At Sarjai’s they come plentiful, sweet and buttery even without the help of the butter on the side. Not overcooked at all unlike some of the Crayfish we enjoyed the rest of the week.
I enjoyed the warm coconut pie, especially since the wife wouldnt touch the stuff. When she tries anything with bits of coconut in it, her face turns into Robert de Niro and she starts spitting profusely. She did enjoy her passion fruit cheesecake.
Sarjai’s, named after chef Darren Connor’s daughter, delivered the kind of vacation debut I can only wet dream about. Chef Connor, like a true Anguillan idol, represents Anguilla from time to time in cooking competitions. Fresh from his trip to NY and Omaha where he learned more about the art of beef, shows the kind of passion and skill you dont normally see in places like this. Places without a sommelier or dedicated stool for your man’s purse. Its the kind of place you are free to run around like a two year old, and talk to the chef like an old friend. I need more friends like this. Ok, one will do for now.
My 30 favorite restaurants in NYC. Still sticking to Brooklyn and Manhattan as these are the two boroughs tourists and I mostly frequent. I live too far from the interesting parts of Queens, and the Bronx. Only rule as usual is $10-100 per person. Meaning nothing that should cost over $100 or under $10 per person. That covers roughly 99% of sit downs in NYC. An affordable list for the people, by the people (Ok, by one person, but you get the idea). Congrats to the winners!
Manhattan
Pure Thai Cookhouse
LumLum may be giving it a run for its money as the top Thai in “Little Bangkok” 9th ave, but I still think Pure Thai is the best one. Its tiny. If you blink you may miss it. I used to go here when they were called Pure Thai Shophouse until two lawyers from Chipotle showed up demanding a name change (long story with a happy ending). There is no curry of every color on this menu like its competitors, but a nice selection of regional specialties like the Ratchaburi with pork, crab and dry handmade noodles made in the “shophouse” like corner inside. The ribs are usually a hit. Papaya salad, jungle curry fried rice, and the always reliable fiery pork with curry paste. And as with any place, if there’s one dessert on the menu, get it. Coconut sticky rice with pumpkin custard is the bomb (and better than LumLum’s version). 766 9th Avenue (51st)
Tia Pol
West Chelsea is known for some of the city’s best Spanish Tapas for some reason, and Tia Pol, one of the originals, is leading the pack. You can probably play Six Degrees of Tia Pol with the number of related Tapas spots in the area and all over town. This is the perfect spot to bring your mother in law as its dark and noisy. Especially if you MIL is into squid ink rice, best I’ve had in this city. Octopus salad, Patatas Bravas, shrimp with garlic are all dependable, and so are the Bocadillos (sandwiches) for lunch. This is as fun as it can get in Little Barcelona (it will catch on) The excellent Salinas is another good one in the area. 205 10th Ave (23rd)
Rezdora
This list is heavy on the Italian for a reason, but if I have to pick just one, it would probably be Rezdora. Its the closest we have to Emilia Romagna cooking, arguably the tastiest of the 20 regions (though Piedmont may want a word). More specifically much of the inspiration comes from Modena, perhaps the most underrated Italian gem as far as food goes. It didnt take long for Rezdora to earn a Michelin Star, so its a bit more popular than when I first recommended it. No point for me to recommend specific dishes here as you cant really go wrong, especially with the pastas. 27 E 20th St (Broadway
Milu
A good and refreshing example of what happens when students of fine dining open a fast-casual place instead of another pricy joint. Essentially an Eleven Madison Park and Shake Sack love child created by ex EMP chefs. The draw is cleverly crafted Asian bowls that includes quality rice, greens and a protein. I sort of settled on the Szechuan style chicken, but everything else I tried except for the duck last time was solid. As far the cheap eats go it doenst get much better than this. 333 Park Ave S (25th)
Anton’s
Another very solid Italian(ish) in a very competitive Italian heavy West Village. When places a such start opening for lunch you know they are doing something right. After being in charge of the kitchens at Maialino and Marta, Nick Anderer finally left Union Square Hospitality Group to open his own place. That means an ingredient driven menu with some focus on nostalgia, like the Bucatini Baczynsky with ham from the ageless Baczynsky meat shop in East Village. Even the simpler dishes like Spinach-ricotta Ravioli are not to be missed due to the high degree of execution and attention to detail. 570 Hudson (W 11th)
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
Opening a Neapolitan style pizzeria in the heart of Manhattan these days requires some major Bombolone. We got plenty of great ones there, while not enough in the outer boroughs. But da Michele might very well be the most well rounded Italian of the bunch. Not only you got a fantastic thin, plus size Neapolitan, you got a large comfortable setting, and a full menu that includes proper Arancini, crafty pastas, and even a killer Caesar salad. 2 Bank St (Greenwich)
Song’ e Napule
While da Michele is a family favorite Pizzeria with fantastic pizza,Song’ e Napule might just be the best pizza in the purest form. Always light, bright and fantastic raw material. Although I’ve been singing its praises for years now (ever since a Gelato owner from Milan told me about it), shame on me for only including it on the guide now (2024). The main issue I had before was that the place was too tiny. But not only they opened new locations in UWS and NJ, they expended the original post. The name has nothing to do with songs (“I’m from Naples” in Neapolitan dialect). The only singing you’ll hear is by baby angels while munching on the Diavola. 146 W Houston St (MacDougal)
Jeju Noodle Bar
I hope you listened to me before the Michelin star, higher prices and crowds, although its been fairly popular ever since it opened in 2017 pretty much. They also now require ressies which makes them a bit less accessible. I’m risking having too much Korean or Korean inspired on the list (update: I removed some so no longer true). This may be a reflection on my taste or the current state of NYC dining, but at the same time, they all so very different. Jeju is stylish, playful, while dishing out flavor packed stuff. While the kitchen specializes in Ramyun, the Korean Ramen, its best to order it as part of the Tasting Menu, one of the better values in town (assuming they still offer it). 679 Greenwich St (Christopher)
Balaboosta
The “perfect housewife” is also the perfect marriage between Einat Admony’s flagship and sexier little sister Bar Bolonat. Its like the “Best of” one of America’s most celebrated Israeli chefs. Her range will make you question whether you are eating Middle Eastern, Italian, or Chinese (Yemenite Soup Dumplings, anyone?). Try the Hummus, eggplant, Kebabs, and Short Rib. 611 Hudson St ( 12th/Jane)
Leitao
Probably my favorite discovery in 2024 (so far). This is the most ambitious Portuguese menu I’ve ever seen in NYC. Owner from Braga doing all sorts of wizardry. Even some of the drinks like Porto Tonic are Portuguese inspired. The signature Peri Peri Chicken will dazzle alright. But I wouldnt skip the butterflied seabass, the sensational falling off the bones Porco Preto, and any of the Octopus dishes (The salad especially). Oh and did I mention they also have a Francesinha. If you never had a Francesinha in Porto yet you havent lived life to the fullest. This is the closest you’ll get in NYC. 547 Hudson St (Perry)
Via Carota
This has quickly become a West Village institution and one of the most well rounded Italian in the entire city. No reservations makes a place like this much more accessible. The most I waited for a table is about 20 minutes. The same menu for lunch and dinner is greatly appreciated (and somewhat rare for places like this), and the many daily specials make it even more interesting. Although many of staples like the Cacio e pepe, chicken, and the sick Funghi with smoked Scamorza makes ordering specials here virtually impossible. 51 Grove st (Bleecker)
Foxface Natural
I cant think of another story like Foxface Natural. From a little sandwich shop, the size of a hers and hers closet, to a dare I say inventive Michelin caliber stuff. All the stars essentially aligned when David Santos of EWZ old fave Louro joined the team. I cant even tell you what to try as it probably wont be on the menu when you go. But if you followed Foxface and Louro closely you’d learn to expect the unexpected, except top notch ingredients and highly skilled execution. 189 Avenue A (12th st).
Hearth
An EV staple that’s consistent while constantly evolving. Marco Canora seems to have found the right formula, creating a menu that is essentially for everyone… Meat freaks, health conscious, pescatarians, vegetarians, vegans, accountants, everyone. Some of the old classics like the Rigatoni and Gnocchi, and the impressive Spatchcock chicken are joined by new classics like Cecina and Rabbit. And that wine bible is still perhaps the NYC wine list to beat. Canora is also the founder of Brodo, the attached bone broth kiosk which is the absolute best way to pass the day before Colonoscopy. 403 E 12th St (1st ave)
Claude
A Z-list no brainer. I just follow Josh Pinsky wherever he goes since the Momofuku Nishi days. He called the cops on me a few times, but after a while he got used to it. Claud feels like a Momofuku support club for fans and staff, and like Momofuku, its hard to categorize the place. From the Foie Gras to simply cooked shrimp, to the expertly cooked Halibut, your taste buds will thank you. 90 E 10th St (3rd/4th)
Fiaschetteria “Pistoia”
While so many Italian establishments bill themselves as “Tuscan”, “Roman”, “Venetian”, and eventually get sucked into a multitude of regional offerings, Pistoia only knows how to do one thing; Pistoian food! The family owns a restaurant in Pistoia, near Florence, Tuscany, and for the most part replicating some of the same Tuscan specialties in Alphabet City. Good luck finding Pici and Pappa Con Pomodoro (A Tuscan classic of stale bread in tomato soup) on the same menu anywhere else in NYC. From the staff, to the menu, and wine, its as authentic as it gets in NYC. Now also in West Village 647 E 11th St (Ave C)
Pig and Khao
Probably a top 5 for me. “Top Chef” Leah Cohen quietly continues to dazzle with brilliant Southeast Asian creations, adding dishes seemingly by the day. Classics like the Sizzling Sisig (third generation Sisig with pork head and egg), and Khao Soi are there to stay. But on a recent visit, its the newer stuff like a spicy Thai mushroom salad, Malaysian fried chicken, and corn that left me speechless. 68 Clinton St (Rivington)
Pinch Chinese
Take a break from Armani Exchanging in Soho and relax in this quirky elevated Chinese. Its an offshoot of Din Tai Fung, a popular Taiwanese Dumplings chain. The Dumplings reign supreme alright but dont miss out on the ribs, Dan Dan Noodles, Snow Crab, the sensational whole chicken, and one of the most celebrated Peking Duck’s in the city. Not to mention the great lunch specials (that sweet cauliflower!) A serious looking crew behind the glass (like watching surgeons doing brain surgery) is balanced by humor all over the place. 177 Prince st (Thompson)
Raoul’s
A solid old school French bistro that’s both popular and often forgotten at the same. In some ways similar to Minetta Tavern nearby. Entertaining New Yorkers for over 50 years, and settled into a haute(ish) destination with a great cocktail menu (try the Aviation). Raoul’s burger is widely considered among the best in the city, and their Steak au Poivre might be the undisputed city champ. Its pricy, but large enough to share.
Thai Diner
Uncle Boons 2.0 is now as popular as Uncle Boons 1.0, though much more comfortable and arguably even better. Its hard to pass by without seeing people waiting outside, though if you come off hours (like 4pm) you should be golden. Speaking of golden, try the Disco Fries, Coconut Sundae, egg sandwich, crab fried rice, but honestly you cant go wrong here. The only dish that didnt quite do it for me was the Green Curry with braised beef, but thats just a testament to the rest of the menu. Check out this Thai Diner Survival Guide for more tips. 186 Mott St (Kenmare)
Wayan
Cedric Vongerichten (Jean-Georges’ son) latest in food heaven NoLita is a Tour de Force. Aided by his Indonesian wife Ochi, Wayan dishes out all sorts of complex bold flavors. The menu features Indonesian inspired recipes utilizing French techniques. Try the Satays, Sashimi, Clams, Yellow Chicken, and do not leave without slurping on those sick Lobster Noodles. One of the most exciting new openings of 2019. 20 Spring St
19 Cleveland
My favorite Israeli/Middle Eastern in NYC these days. It’s the perfect bridge between haute and casual. You can still get some killer falafel and hummus (a la sister Nish Nush), but also craftier items like eggplant carpaccio, and fish Shawarma. Even items from other parts of the world, like Spatzl with lobster, fried calamari are solid. Great for brunch and dinner. 19 Cleveland Pl (Kenmare)
Nish Nush
This is another fast-casual quicky, and my favorite Falafel in the city. I used to bike to this place 30 minutes when I worked in Hell’s Kitchen. Thats 30 minutes there, and 40 minutes back after a full tummy. It may not bring you a Ratatouille moment but its probably the closest to a typical Falafeleria (is this a word?) in Tel Aviv. I’m partial to this location rather than the newer one in FiDi. The freshness here including the fluffy pitas is a difference maker. You can also have a very good Sabich, Hummus among many other things. The menu expended over the years making it easier to include Nish Nush on this list. 88 Reade (Church)
Brooklyn
Kashkar Cafe
This is where you get your Uyghur fix! A gem like no other on this list, but you will need to schlep there. Kashkar is located in Brighton Beach, a predominately Russian neighborhood except that its becoming less and less Russian and more Uzbek, Georgian, Kazakh. And its reflected by the dining options all over. Uyghur is an Ethnic group living in Eastern and Central Asia including Uzbekistan where Kashkar’s owners are from, and as far as I know Kashkar is one of the first if not the first Uyghur restaurant in NY if not the US. One of the specialties here is the chewy hand pulled Lagman noodles that you can have as soup or dry with meat and veggie stews (try the dry Geiro Lagman). The Kebabs are also solid 1141 Brighton Beach Ave (Brighton Beach)
Indian Table
It may change any week, but nothing short of a triumphant meal or two can replace Indian Table as my favorite Indian in NYC at the moment. Great food, and unlike so many, a name easy to remember and spell. Two of my favorite words in my vocabulary. The other favorites are Pizza and Brouhaha. IT is Goan at its core, so plenty of Goan and hence Portuguese influences throughout the menu, with the talented Eric McCarthy at the helm. Try the Achari Chicken Tikka, Choris Pao, Punjabi Samosas, and any of the curries, like Chicken Chettinad, Butter Chicken (ask if not on the menu), and the Konkan Railway Mutton. 234 Court St (Cobble Hill)
Werkstatt
Probably our favorite overall restaurant in Brooklyn these days. A few years back I didnt add this eclectic Austrian to the list partly due to the location. But now I realize that its the location that makes it so special. You can pretty much draw a line separating Brooklyn’s gentrified with the not so gentrified half and you’ll find Werkstatt positioned smack in the middle. Pair it with a visit to Historic Prospect South, Prospect Park, or Brooklyn Museum. Some come for the Schnitzel, Goulash, and “Best Pretzel in NYC”, but these days I go for the numerous fish specials like Skate wing. Its a severely underrated neighborhood joint that should be the envy of every neighborhood. 509 Coney Island Ave (Flatbush)
Claro
Although Oaxacan by nature, Claro is the closest you’ll get to the full service Mexico City experience in NYC. Its on the higher end, where you can easily surpass the over $100 pp. But perhaps not high enough for Michelin which stripped it from its star. Perhaps the unassuming casual environment had something to do with it. Black Bass with green mole, topped with smoked Trout roe, Mole Negro, and Arroz con Leche are some of the highlights. Although the menu constantly changes. 284 3rd Ave (Gowanus)
Cotra
Around the corner of the previously mentioned (as of this writing) Claro, is another winner, albeit a lot less known and easier to reserve. Cotra is a newish (2023) Izakaya dishing out all sorts of addictive awesomeness, like the aptly named Addictive Cabbage. But you cant really go wrong with any of the smaller plates like the Mochiko Chicken and Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice. Though it may be tough to pass on the Yakiniku Ribeye Steak. 451 Carroll St (Gowanus)
Hometown BBQ
There was a time when finding good BBQ in the city was as difficult as watching a constipated baby. Those days are officially gone. Those that still say that need to come out of the their shell, and go straight to Red Hook. It took me a while to warm up to Hometown, but now I cant get enough of it. Hometown’s quick and growing fame reached a point of a major destination stop and ‘Franklin-esque’ weekend lines. The spare ribs, and the legendary brisket are unmatched. But what sets Hometown apart is the craftiness and execution of the normally secondary items like the super moist chicken, and the addictive sausage. 454 Van Brunt St (Red Hook)
Chuan Tian Xia
It’s beyond time I add our favorite Chinese in Brooklyn, and our traditional Xmas meal. We have a number of favorites in NYC’s largest Chinatown, but this is the place where we feel most at home. Not a case where every dish we ever tried was a slam dunk, but we settled on our favorites while adding new ones from time to time (I’m looking at you Cumin Lamb). Try the String Beans, Cauliflower, Hot and spicy fish fillet, Kung Pao chicken. 5502 7th Ave (Sunset Park)
Lilia
It took me 4 weeks to train my Google to stop showing me results for Ilili (Gourmet Lebanese) whenever I searched for Lilia. Missy Robbins, Barack Obama’s favorite chef in Chicago (when he was a senator) dishes out freakishly good pastas like the Cacio e Perfect Malfadini and Agnolotti. The vegetables all over the app section featuring the best of Union Square Market. Great simple meat dishes, and all sorts of “Little Fish” and “Big Fish” hugging the menu. She must be a PJ Harvey fan. 567 Union Ave (Williamsburg)
Oh Anguilla, AngWilla, what took yer so long to call my name. I was more than Willa! to check ya out Anguilla, oh yeah! Ok, I don’t know what it means about my musical writing abilities but whenever I try to write something, I sound like sir Justin Bieber….who visited Anguilla a week ago or so btw. I’m jealous of Justin I must say. The dude is 21, and goes to Anguila on a whim, just like that. While I needed about 21 years to get convinced. “The beaches are not better than TCI”, “you need a full day of suffering to get there”, “you need to take a high speed ferry where even the seagulls throw up”. Turns out all the motivation I needed is United Airlines making it much tougher to get to TCI these days.
Jacala’s – One of the biggest gems of the trip. Two Frenchmen, one in the kitchen, one on the floor, making all sorts of magic right on the beach. Its open for lunch, but I wouldn’t miss dinner. Great soups, heavenly Tuna Tartare, Risotto like no other (nice middle course to share). Table side prepared Steak tartare is oddly a main course but very popular. Not to mention the chicken of dreams, and the Panna Cotta. Go!
Eating With Ziggy 